\  N 

\ 

• 

M 

MEXICAN 
INDEPENDENCE 

1810  ^^  i960 


on^TAnr 


MKXICO    (ITV. 


Some  fragrant  trees 

By  flower-sown  seas 
Where  boats  j^o  up  and  down, 

And  a  sense  of  rest 

To  the  tired  breast 
In  this  beauteous  Aztee  town. 

But  the  terrible  thinp  in  this  Aztec  town, 
That  will  bluw  men's  rest  into  stormiest  skies, 

Or  whether  they  journey  or  they  lie  down  — 
These  wide  and  these  wonderful  Spanish  eyes  ! 


Great  walls  about, 

Gate  posts  without, 
That  prop  these  sapphire  skies; 

Two  huge  pate  posts 

Snow  white,  like  phosts — 
Gate  pofts  to  this  Paradise  ! 

Bi:£,oh  !  turn  back  from  the  hiyh- walled  town  ; 

There  is  trouble  enough  in  this  world,  I  surmise^ 
Without  men  riding  in  regiments  down 

To  die  by  those  perilous  Spanish  eyes  ! 

— Joaquin  M tiler. 


FACE  TO  FACE 
WITH   THE   MEXICANS 


Domestic   Life,   Educational,   Social,  and  Business    Ways, 

Statesmanship  and   Literature,    Legendary   and 

General  History  of  the  Mexican  People, 


AS     SEEN     AND     STUDIED    BY     AN    AMERICAN     WOMAN     DURING 
SEVEN    YEARS    OF    INTERCOURSE    WITH    THEM. 


BY 

FANNY    CHAMBERS    GOOCH. 


ttliti)  200  JUnstrations. 


NEW    YORK : 

FORDS,    HOWARD,    &    HULBERT. 


Copyright,  1887,  by 
FANNY   CHAMBERS   GOOCH. 


Press  of  J    J.  Little  &    Co. 
Astor  Place,  New  York. 


^ 


^/s^-e^^^^^^-z- 


c6ey.=^C<:^>X. 


TO 
MY    MEXICAN    FRIENDS 

THIS    VOLUME, 

IN    WHICH    I    HAVE    ENDEAVORED 

TO    EXPRESS    MY    APPRECIATION    OF    MEXICAN    CHARACTER    AND 

SHOW    IT    TRUTKFl'ILY    TO    MV    COUNTRYMEN, 

IS  DEDICATED. 


^.^'^^Aict'^,  Q^^^fU^ y' ^^!^^  yj'j'at 


•^&^€'-i.f^ 


iy»-^'?^5<    &/ia)-m^C!-^  "^^.f/^. 


<2e!'?fes»-^^-^^-  y/inOi^Z/'  ' 


*ita^/X€^Ce^f^y^.g:C:^  fVff^e^  ^  ^^A^c 


>*^^ 


,.,.<pe^^ 


•cKiP^C£^>i^^ ^^^ ''  '^eyC^.  ''{^ty^.^Uff't.^'i^i? t  e^'^f'^-tt^  ^  ^ 


'■■^l^'^^icta:^  ^^^Stcj^^-^t^  /^/^'^':<^:^'9^-^  ,^^!^^^^e'e:z;-t//^'Cc^- — 


{^Translation  of  letter  from  President  Diaz^ 

Mexico,  April  i,  1886. 
Mrs.  Fanny  Chambers   Gooch, 

Present. 
Esteemed  Madame  : 

Having  read  your  favor  of  day  before  yesterday,  and  complying  with  the  kind 
desire  which  you  are  pleased  to  express,  I  have  the  pleasure  to  send  you  herewith 
the  photographs  of  my  wife  and  myself.  We  are  grateful  to  you  for  your  considera- 
tion, and  also  thank  you  for  your  courtesy  in  notifying  us  of  your  approaching  journey, 
which  I  hope  you  will  make  with  all  happiness.  I  remain  your  attentive  and  affec- 
tionate servant, 

PoRFiRio    Diaz. 


PREFACE. 


The  descriptions  of  Mexican  life,  customs,  and  character  embraced 
in  the  following  chapters  are  drawn  from  a  close  and  interested  scru- 
tiny of  the  people  of  our  neighboring  Republic  during  a  residence  and 
visits  among  them  including  in  all  a  period  of  about  seven  years. 

Like  all  foreigners,  I  was  practically  a  stranger  to  the  marked  pe- 
culiarities of  race,  social  and  business  life,  government,  and  religion 
there  to  be  encountered.  In  all  that  I  had  read  on  the  subject,  in 
books  or  transient  sketches,  I  found  that  no  one  had  endeavored 
to  minutely  describe  certain  phases  of  Mexican  life  and  character, 
necessary  to  be  understood  in  order  to  fully  appreciate  the  people. 

First  impressions  of  writers  are  either  glowing  on  account  of  nov- 
elty, excitement,  and  varied  pleasures,  or  marked  by  unfavorable  criti- 
cisms obtained  from  a  mere  surface-view  of  the  new  society  with 
which  they  mingle.  I  shared  in  the  variety  of  impressions  common 
to  all  strangers  ;  but  experience  with  the  people  and  a  careful  obser- 
vation of  them  brought  about  a  change  in  my  opinions  as  to  the 
fitness  of  their  government  and  national  customs  for  the  varied  races 
of  their  Republic.  And  more  than  this:  a  closer  contact  also  re- 
vealed to  me  the  high  culture  and  splendid  attainments  of  her  men 
and  the  warm,  sympathetic  hearts  of  her  women. 

The  longer  I  mingled  with  the  Mexican  people  the  more  forcibly  was 
I  impressed  with  the  fact  that  they  are  not  properly  understood  by  their 
Anglo-Saxon  neighbors.  As  this  thought  grew  in  my  mind  day  by 
day,  there  grew  with  it  a  desire  to  acquaint  my  own  countrymen  more 
intimately  with  them,  and,  if  possible,  secure  a  fairer  appreciation 
of  a  people  whom  it  has  been  too  long  the  custom  to  decry,  but  who 
deserve  the  highest  commendation  for  their  works  and  institutions, 
projected  and  carried  out  under  many  difficulties. 


14  PR  L  FACE. 

To  accomplish  this  task,  which  I  felt  was  a  sacred  mission  and  a 
tribute  that  I  wished  to  pay  to  my  Mexican  friends,  I  undertook  the 
present  volume.  I  have  not  failed  to  realize  that  the  field  is  new  and 
that  it  required  a  more  skillful  pen  than  mine  to  accomplish  all  that 
was  intended.  The  details  were  so  numerous  and  yet  so  indispensa- 
ble to  the  full  delineation  of  character  and  customs,  that  great  pa- 
tience has  been  necessary  to  eliminate  from  the  material  accumulated 
much  that  was  interesting  but  not  essential  to  the  main  design  of  the 
work.  Then,  too,  dealing  with  so  many  subjects  grouped  under  gen- 
eral headings,  the  tendency  was  to  make  broken  and  fragmentary 
sketches.  Every  chapter  will  be  found  to  be  complete  in  itself,  how- 
ever, and  all  serve  to  give  faithful  pictures  of  the  people. 

Having  lived  in  close  personal  contact  with  the  domestic  service 
of  the  country,  I  have  devoted  a  few  of  the  initial  chapters  to  this 
unique  and,  to  us,  humorous  phase  of  Mexican  life,  -showing  the  un- 
failing inbred   adherence  to  national  characteristics. 

In  submitting  this  volume  to  the  people  of  both  Republics,  it  is 
with  the  sincere  wish  that  it  may,  in  a  measure,  lead  to  a  better  ac- 
quaintance the  one  with  the  other,  and  that  this  acquaintance  may 
induce  both  to  realize  that  they  have  differences  and  peculiarities 
naturally  adapted  to  their  governments,  races  and  religions.  Each 
can  respect  and  co-operate  with  the  other  in  peace  and  harmony,  in- 
dependent and  separate  as  they  ever  should  remain,  fixed  by  nature  ; 
but  sisters  as  Republics. 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. 


.\  duty  would  be  neglected  if  I  failed  to  pay  a  tribute  to  the 
many  friends  from  whom  acts  of  kindness  were  received  during  my 
residence  and  journeys  in  Mexico.  To  mention  each  one  is  impossi- 
ble, because  none  were  met  who  tlid  not  aid  me  in  my  efforts,  either 
by  words  or  acts,  which,  though  perhaps  forgotten  by  them,  will  ever 
be  by  me  most  gratefully  remembered. 

To  ex-Governor  John  Ireland  of  Texas  my  first  acknowledgments 


PREFACE.  15 

are  due.  He  has  taken  a  deep  personal  interest  in  my  work  and  en- 
couraged me  in  its  execution,  furnishing  me  with  letters  to  President 
Diaz  and  governors  of  various  Mexican  States;  to  General  Henry  R. 
Jackson,  American  Minister;  to  Major  Joseph  Magoffin,  Collector  of 
Customs  at  El  Paso,  and  to  other  leading  personages,  and  obtained 
for  me  facilities  for  full  access  to  various  sources  of  information. 

General  Hamilton  P.  Bee  and  Dr.  Halbert  P.  Howard,  both  of 
whom  have  had  a  life-knowledge  of  Mexico,  rendered  me  valuable  as- 
sistance with  letters  of  introduction  to  distinguished  citizens  of  the 
Mexican  Republic. 

To  S.  G.  Sneed,  Esq.,  my  thanks  are  due  for  his  sympathetic  inter- 
est in  the  preparation  of  the  work  and  the  benefit  of  his  cultivated  lit- 
erary taste. 

To  Dr.  D.  T.  Iglehart,  Hon.  J.  W.  Robertson  and  Mr.  Sterling  B. 
Allen  for  many  kindnesses,  and  to  Mr.  J.  A.  Hooper,  of  the  "Gould 
system  "  of  Southwestern  Railways,  for  official  courtesies  in  traveling. 

At  El  Paso  I  was  the  recipient  of  many  gracious  attentions  from 
Mr.  R.  F.  Campbell  and  family  and  Mrs.  P'annie  D.  Porter  and  family. 
To  Major  Joseph  Magoffin  and  family  I  am  specially  indebted  for 
unbounded  hospitality  and  assistance  on  my  journey  both  in  going  and 
returning.  Major  Magoffin  presented  to  me  Sefior  J.  Escobar,  Mexican 
Consul,  and  together  they  rendered  me  invaluable  aid  by  having  circu- 
lars printed,  stating  my  object  and  commending  me  to  the  Mexican 
people.  Sefior  Escobar  also  gave  me  letters  of  introduction  to  Sefior 
Mariscal,  Mexican  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs,  and  anticipated  every 
need  in  my  introduction  at  the  capital. 

Sefior  Mariscal  received  me  with  true  Mexican  courtesy  and  ap- 
pointed Sefior  Jos6  J.  Jimenez  to  accompany  me  to  various  public  in- 
stitutions. During  my  stay  Senor  Mariscal  rendered  me  many  other 
valuable  services. 

To  Mr.  Frederick  P.  Hoeck,  who  personally  presented  my  letters, 
and  to  Mr.  Charles  E.  Cummings.  both  of  the  Mexican  capital,  I  am 
happy  to  make  acknowledgments. 

Our   minister,  General    Henrj-  R.  Jackson,  and   his  estimable  wife 


1 6  PREFACE. 

received  me  with  warm  encouragement  and  kindness,  showing  me 
distinguished  attentions  at  the  legation. 

The  editor  of  The  Two  RepiMics,  Mr.  J.  Mastella  Clark,  and  his 
charming  wife  bestowed  on  me  many  kind  favors  and  hospitalities. 

Among  other  kind  American  friends  were  Mr.  and  Mrs.  E.  J. 
Gould,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  G.  F.  Mayer,  Mrs.  J.  L.  Corella,  Rev.  J.  J.  Grib- 
bin,  Mr.  11.  G.  Payne,  Major  Robert  Gorsuch,  Mr.  S.  J.  Blood  worth, 
Mr.  F.  R.  Guernsey,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  R.  F.  Pitten. 

I  am  indebted  for  many  courtesies  to  Major  E.  W.  Jackson,  Man- 
aging Director  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway,  to  Mr.  R.  C.  Peeples, 
Superintendent  of  the  Mexican  National  Railivay,  and  to  Mr.  Thomas 
Braniff,  Managing  Director  of  the  Mexican  Railway,  and  for  courte- 
sies from  railway  officials  in  all  my  travels. 

The  Mexican  Press  Association  appointed  three  of  its  most  ac- 
complished members,  Seflores  Augustin  Arroyo  de  Anda,  Alberto  G. 
Bianchi,  and  Bernabc  E.  Bravo,  to  show  me  attentions  in  the  name  of 
the  association.  To  these  gentlemen  I  am  deeply  indebted  for  con- 
tinual courtesies. 

To  Dr.  Semelidcr  my  thanks  are  due  for  valuable  information,  and 
to  Dr.  Ocadiz,  Secretary  of  the  San  Carlos  Academy,  Judge  Ignacio 
Sepulvida,  and  Seflor  Zazzimende,  for  various  attentions. 

Dr.  Antonio  Peflafiel,  of  the  National  Museum,  gave  me  access  to 
his  splendid  library  and  collection  of  Mexican  antiquities,  and  jointly 
with  his  brother-in-law,  Seflor  Lamberto  Asiain,  presented  me  with 
valuable  scientific  works. 

The  family  of  Seizor  Tirso  Calderon,  with  whom  I  resided  in  the 
City  of  Mexico,  will  ever  be  held  in  grateful  remembrance  for  their 
untiring  attentions  and  tender  regard.  I  am  specially  indebted  to 
Scftora  Calderon  for  introductions  into  the  homes  of  many  distin- 
guished people. 

To  His  Excellency  L.  S.  Ross,  present  Governor  of  Texas,  I  make 
my  grateful  acknowledgments. 

The  book  has  been  illustrated  principally  by  Miss  Isabel  V.Waldo, 
a  portrait  painter  of  New  York,  who  was  in  the  City  of  Mexico  during 


PREFA  CE.  I  7 

my  stay  there.  Her  portraits  of  tlic  various  types  are  taken  from  life, 
and  are  faithful  delineations  of  the  characters  they  represent. 

The  illustrations  on  pages  65,  265,  429,  and  opposite  page  183,  were 
kindly  sketched  for  nic  by  Ramon  Castenada,  a  young  student  of  the 
San  Carlos  Academy. 

The  initals  and  outline  sketches  were  drawn  by  P.  G    Cusachs. 

While  the  body  of  the  work  has  been  the  result  of  my  personal 
experiences  and  observations  among  the  Mexican  people,  in  the  his- 
torical chapers  I  have  availed  myself  of  the  researches  of  Hubert  Howe 
Bancroft  in  his  histories  of  Mexico  from  1804  to  1861  ;  Prescott's 
Conquest  of  Mexico  ;  also  Brantz  ^zye.x's  Mexico  :  Aztec,  Spanisli  and 
Republic,  and  Mexico  as  It  Was  and  as  It  Is ;  also   Humboldt's  works 

on  Mexico. 

F.   C.  G. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    I. 


A    NEW    HOME    AND    NEW    FRIENDS. 


Tradition  and  founding  of  Saltillo — Origin  and  derivation  of  tlie  name — Opinions  vary — 
Coahuila — Origin  of  tfie  name — Saltillo,  the  seat  of  important  industries — Making  a 
new  home — Beautiful  scenery — Calle  Real,  the  historic  seat — Architecture — Home 
in  an  old  Mexican  mansion — Doors,  roof,  windows,  floors,  keys — Adobe  roofs — 
Water  spouts — Relics  of  Mexican  grandeur — Absence  of  modern  conveniences — 
Fears  of  ghosts  and  hobgoblins — A  nocturnal  adventure — Interesting  discoveries — 
Visit   from  a   Mexican  youth — Scenes  from  my  window 33 

CHAPTER    H. 

IN    MOTHER    NOAH's    SHOES. 

Primitive  housekeeping — The  indispensable  mozo — Extraordinary  culinary  arrangements 
— The  ;:ietatc\  or  mill — Pancho's  wit  and  intelligence — Daily  revelations.  Wrest- 
ling with  a  foreign  tongue — Primitive  practices — Going  to  market — Mexican  arti- 
cles of  food— Street  scenes — A  familiar  face  in  a  strange  land — The  burros — 
Retail  venders — A  cooking-stove — The  disgust  of  the  natives — The  stove's  oration.     60 

CHAPTER    ni. 

NO    ES   COSTUMBRE. 

The  lack  of  a  broom — A  friend  in  need — The  cscohero,  broom-vender — House-cleaning 
— Astonishing  the  natives — Pancho's  amiability  gives  out — He  leaves  me  for  his 
"sick  grandmother"' — Pancho's  successors — Courteous  insubordination — Greek 
meets  Greek — Pancho's  successors  depart — Peculiar  names  and  characteristics  of 
servants — "  Little  John  " — Wifely  devotion — Marital  tyranny — \n  undressed  fowl 
— Knotty   points S4 


20  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    IV. 

THK    LOAN    OF    A    MOZO    AND    A    TRIP    TO    PALOMAS. 

Successive  departures  of  successive  mozos — Cosme,  our  borrowed  ii:ozo — We  set  out 
for  Palomas— Cosine  in  the  van— His  John  Gilpin  ride— Palomas— A  typical  Mexi- 
can liome— A  surgical  operation — Inquisitive  hospitality — Inherent  courtesy — A 
Mexican  dinner— Embroidery  and  fancy  work— The  "Pass  of  the  Doves'"— Our 
ride  home— Poor  Cosme  I— He  takes  a  mournful  departure— His  pious  aiiios Io2 

CHAPTER    V. 

FROM  BORDER  TO  CAPITAL  ALONG  THE  MEXICAN  CENTRAL. 

The  Mexican  "  All  aboard  I  " — El  Paso  and  Paso  del  Norte — Chihuahua — Santa  Rosa- 
lia, its  manners  and  customs — Dr.  Tarver  and  family — Strange  notices  in  a  meson 
—Stations  and  scenery  along  the  road-Zacatecas— Mines  and  mining— Aguas 
Calientes— Historic  associations — National  Palace— Public  bathing  of  the  com- 
mon people — Bridge  at  Encarnacion — Queretaro — Maximihan's  monument — Other 
towns  along  the  road — Memorial  crosses  and  stone-heaps — Nochistongo  Pass — 
Arrival  at  Mexico  City — Hotel    San    Carlos — The   all-important  camarista 127 

CHAPTER   VI. 

TENOCHTITLAN — THE    AZTEC    CAPITAL. 

The  founding  of  the  city — Invasion  by  the  Spaniards — The  three  great  causeways — The 
Spaniards' defeat — "  Noche  triste  " — Atzcapotzalco — Mexico  City — The  Zocalo — 
Street — "Street  of  the  Sad  Indian" — Street  cars — Pulque  shops — Inundations  and 
earthquakes — The  Rome  of  America — Churches — Monuments — Industrial  art  and 
public  schools — Public  gardens — Markets — Charitable  institutions — Pawn-shops — 
Theaters — Dry-goods  stores — House-renting — Mexican  flora — Art  gallery  and  mu- 
seum—The Viga  Canal— Chapultepec— Climate— The  Alameda— Funerals— Valley 
of  Mexico — Popocatapetl — Iztaccihuatl 155 

CHAPTER    Vn. 

THE    MEXICANS    IN    THF.IR    HOMES. 

Characteristics — Sincerity  and  faithfulness  in  friend^liip — Hospitality — How  to  meet 
them — Manners  and  customs—  Middle  class — Forms  of  greeting — Etiquette— Gestic- 
ulations— Family  ties — Their  charity  and  benevolence — Religion — Hospitality — 
Household     arrangements— The     Palacio    mansion — Music— Poetr\ — Manners    of 


CONTENTS.  21 

speech — Couriesy  —  PoHas  anA  pollilas — Gatlos  and  ^i^(7///«oj-— Domestic  tastes  of  the 
women — Their  beauty,  their  education  and  accomplishments — The  children — Their 
beauty  and  precocity — Little  Alfonso — Boys  and  girls — Home  discipline — Cour- 
tesy  to  elders. — The  dear  babies I9S 

CHAPTER   VIII. 

FASTS    AND    FESTIVALS    AND    SOCIAL    FORMS. 

Harmony  of  the  subjects — Change  from  Paganism  to  Christianity — Power  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  Church — Rupture  of  Church  and  State — All  Saints'  Day — All  Souls'  Day — 
Feast  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe — Weird  sights  and  sounds — Celebration  of  a  dia 
dc  santa — Celebrations  at  Morelia  and  Queretaro — Christmas — Posadas — Piiiates — 
Festivities — La  China  Poblana — Pastorela  in  the  rural  districts — Feasts  of  the  Epiph- 
any, Candlemas,  etc. — Carnival — Lent — Palm  Sunday — Holy  Week— Good  Friday 
— Sabado  de  Gloria  (Saturday  of  Glory) — Floral  festival — Feast  of  St.  John  the  Baptist 
— Funeral  notices — Wearing  of  mourning — -National  feasts — Courtship  and  marriages 
— Cards  :  wedding,  birth,  and  baptismal — Social  ceremonies — Dress — The  gorgeous 
hacendado — Gallantries — The  daiiza — Outdoor  amusements — Chapultepec  military 
academy 242 

CHAPTER    IX. 

FROM    MEXICO    TO    MORELIA    ALONG    THE    MEXICAN    NATIONAL. 

A  delightful  journey — Charming  views — Toluca — Institute  Literario — Public  school — 
Hacienda  de  la  Huerta — Distinguished  hospitalities — Touching  street  scenes — From 
Toluca  to  Morelia — Tepeji  del  Rio — Reminders  of  Ocampo's  tragic  death — Flotel  de 
Michoacan — Characteristic  hotel  regulations — Rambles  among  the  convents — A 
startling  apparition — A  unique  bachelor  establishment — ^Climate — Minerals — Fruits 
— Scenery — Peculiar  lacquer  ware — College  of  San  Nicolas — Prisons  and  penitentia- 
ries— Architecture — Visit  to  the  Legislature — MorL-lian  hospitality — Tribute  from 
Mary  Halleck  Foote — Adios  to  Morelia 293 

CHAPTER    X. 

ACTORS    AND    EVENTS    IN    MEXICAN    HISTORY. 

Mexico's  struggles  for  independence —Hidalgo,  the  Washington  of  Mexico — Midnight 
scene  and  grito  of  Dolores — Stirring  events  and  closing  scenes  in  the  life  of  the  pa- 
triot— His  execution — Morelos,  the  successor  of  Hidalgo — Joined  by  Matamoras — 
Siege  of  Cuantla — Defeat  and  execution — His  house  in  Morelia — The  Emperor 
Augustin  de  Iturbide — The  mysterious  portrait — Iturbide's  brilliant  record — Honors 


22  CONTENTS. 

I 

shown  him — Abdication  anil  exile — Return  and  capture — Execution — The  grandson 

of  the  Emperor  adopted  by  Maxmilian  and  Carlotta — The  mother  regains  possession 
of  her  son — Madame  Iturbide — Vicente  Guerrero — Guerilla  warfare — Capture  and 
execution — The  Bravos.  father  and  son — Magnanimous  conduct  of  Nicolas  Bravo — 
Guadalupe  Victoria,  first  President  of  Mexico — General  Santa  Anna — His  wonderful 
career— Exile,  return  and  death — Promulgation  of  the  Federal  Chart — Benito  Juarez, 
the  Indian  President — Tomb  of  Juarez — His  glorious  career — Don  Melchor  Ocampo 
—  His  tragic  end — Distinguished  patriots — Bancroft's  criticisms  on  the  American 
war — Helen  Hunt  Jackson — Intermarriages  of  Americans  and  Mexicans — Causes  of 
the  Mexican  war — Congress — Madam  Uiaz  and  Mrs.  Cleveland — General  Diaz — 
Sketch  of  Ills  life  and  adventures 315 

CHAPTER   XI. 

A     GLANCE   AT    MEXICAN    LITERATURE. 

Priinitive  literature — The  twelve  Franciscan  friars,  the  pioneers  of  Mexican  literature — 
Toribio  Benavente — Bernardino  de  Sahagun — Las  Casas  and  other  early  writers — 
Literary  Association — General  Palacio  as  a  writer — Literary  entertainment  at  his 
mansion — Altamirano — Guillermo  Prieto — Juan  de  Dios  Peza,  the  "  Mexican  Long- 
fellow " — Francisco  Sosa — Members  of  the  literati — Mexican  journalism — The  Liceo 
Morelos — Mexican  Press  Association — Women  writers — "  Maraposa  Indiana" — A 
pleasing  token 374 

CHAPTER    XII. 

MORE    ABOUT    THE    COMMON    PEOPLE. 

"  The  SiU-nt  Aztec  Child  of  the  .Sun  " — Poetical  contribution  by  |oaquin  Miller — Con- 
trast between  the  Mexican  ami  .\merican  Indian — Ingenuity  of  the  former — Con- 
tentment of  the  laboring  class — Clothing — Fine  needlework — Advancement  in  edu- 
cation— Types — Courtesy  among  the  poor — Their  love  of  music — The  h'pero — The 
China  Poblana — Makinga  portrait  under  dirfn:ultics — Social  life  and  courtship — Mar- 
ri.age  ceremonies — Bridal  costumes — Street  conversation — Mexican  mobs — Servants 
— Their  devotion  to  their  employers — Wages — Novel  methods  of  keeping  accounts 
Hospitality  among  the  poor — Sewing-machines — Babies — Beauty  of  the  juveniles — 
The  evangelista  (letter  writer) — Annoying  peddlers — .\n  ingenious  trick — Various  avo- 
cations— Characteristic  conversation— The  lavaiideras — The  agtiador,  or  water-car- 
rier— .\ncient  superstitious  beliefs — Modern  superstitions — The  tamalera — The  cii- 
randera,  or  doctor — "  I  became  a  doctor  by  my  natural  intelligence  " — Pharmacy 
extraordinary 3qr; 


CONTENTS.  23 

CHAPTER    XIII. 

PUEBbA,     CHOLULA,    SAN    MIGUEL    SESMA    AND     ORIZAUA ALONG      THK    MEXI- 
CAN    RAILWAY. 

.Starting  for  Puebla — San  Juan  Teotihuacan,  the  Me.Nican  Pompeii — Arrival  at  the  Casa 
de  las  Diligencias — The  imperturbable  camarista — Puebla — Public  buildings — Mater- 
nity hospital — Manufactories — "  City  of  the  Angels  " — Cathedral — Market  scenes — 
Picturesque  costumes — Importance  and  resources  of  the  State  of  Puebla — Pyramid  of 
Cholula — Pyramids  of  Xochicalco  and  Papantla — Beautiful  scenery — Incidental  kind- 
nesses— Visit  to  Madam  Iturbide's  hacienda — Morning  song  of  the  peons — A  model 
plantation — Ancient  aqueduct — On  the  road — Places  of  interest — Storm  at  Orizaba.   441 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

THE    VIRGIN    i)F    GUADALUPE. 

The  tradition — Universal  and  firm  belief  in  it — How  the  Virgin  appeared  to  Juan  Diego 
— Her  command  to  build  a  chapel — Miraculous  signs  and  visions — Building  of  the 
church ■■      473 

CHAPTER    XV. 

AMONG     THE    CHILDREN. 

The  story  of  Gaitagileno — Lullabies,  rhymes  and  nursery  tales — Conundrums  and  games 

—••Elpato" 47<J 

CHAPTER    XVI. 

SCENES    FROM    .MV     WINDOW. 

Picturesque  pedestrians — The  gorgeous  senipc — Novel  method  of  taking  home  the  wash 
— Venders  of  various  articles — Entertaining  panorama — Teatro  Principal — Military 
review — An  amusing  diversion — K  runaway — A  perplexed  butter-boy — Gritos — The 
tamalcra — Touching  incident — Song  of  the  "  cost  Km  lues" — Newsboys'  cries 4S5 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

WHAT  THEY  EAT  AND  HOW  THEY  COOK  IT. 

Skill  of  the  ancient  Aztecs  in  the  culinary  art — Primitive  kitchens — A  unique  water  filter 
— Ceremonious  table  observances — Delicious  beverages — Recipes  for  toothsome 
dishes 404 


24  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 

THE     AMERICAN     COLONY. 

"  -Motlicr  of  the  American  Colony  " — Our  little  band  in  the  sister  republic — The  Ameri- 
can Benevolent  Society — Hospital — Protestant  churches — Bishop  Riley — His  labors 
and  sacrifices — Celebration  of  Christmas  among  the  Americans — Agreeable  impres- 
sions left  by  our  official  representatives — General  Henry  R.  Jackson — Simon  Lara, 
founder  of  the  American  Hospital — Laying  of  the  corner-stone — Eloquent  speech 
by  Gen.  Jackson — Token  of  esteem  to  the  General  from  the  colony — His  departure 
from  Mexico  and  his  farewell  speech 505 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

A    FI",W     OF    THE     POPULAR    SONGS    AND    DANCES    OF    THE    PEOPLE. 

The  National  Anthem — The  Danza  known  as  Las  Tres  Gracias  (Three  Graces) :  i.  Aglas; 
2.  Talia  ;  3.  Eufrasina — La  Goloudrina,  the  Mexican  ''  Home,  Sweet  Home" — Los 
Naranjos  6  Adela — I  Ay  Que  Niquel  ! — La  Paloma 519 

CHAPTER    XX. 


ADVANTAGES  AND  DISADVANTAGES. 

Mutual  dependence  of  the  two  republics — Causes  of  misunderstandings — Yankee  haste 
''ersus  Mexican  slowness — Steps  towards  a  better  understanding — Mexico's  wonder- 
ful resources — Tact  of  foreigners  in  business  dealings — John  Bull  conforming  to  the 
"  cosliimhrcs  " — Success  in  retail  trade — ^Extremes  of  wealth  and  poverty — Irrigation 
— Haciendas — Employees'  accounts — Peons — Their  intense  conservatism — Work  re- 
tarded by  holidays — Mr.  Guernsey  on  foreign  labor — Taxes  on  produce — American 
miners — Variety  of  delicious  fruits — The  maguey  plant — Manufacture  of  pulque, 
etc. — Tanneries — Shoes — Cattle-breeding — Butter  :  Its  novel  manufacture — Minor 
industries — Transformation  of  plebeian  names — Domestication  of  American  families 
in  Mexico — Education — Naturalization  laws — Climate — Police  regulations — "  Ru- 
rales  " — Their  bravery  in  rescuing  the  crew  of  the  "  Ranger" — Rewarded  by  Presi- 
dent Cleveland — Judge  Crosby  on  American  enterprise  and  investments  in  Mexico — 
Ladies  traveling  in  the  Republic — Causes  of  Mexico's  troubles — Her  steady  progres- 
sion—  P.orfler  troubles — The  dawn  r)f  a  new  era 538 

A  DIGS. 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PACE 

1  A  Mexican  Lady  at  Home 2 

2  Madame  Diaz 6 

3  President  Diaz 10 

4  Mexican  Plaza,  Fountain  and  Cathedral    32 

5  Tradition  of  Saltillo  {Initial  Letter) 33 

6  Calle  Real,  Saltillo 36 

7  A  Few  of  the  Keys  .  .   40 

S  ' '  Would  have  been  a  Load  for  a  Burro  " 41 

g  Jealous  Husband's  Windows 42 

:o  Two  Views  from   One  Window 43 

1 1  Water-spouts 44 

12  View  IN  a  Courtyard 45 

13  A  Group  of  my  Little  Friends 52 

14  Portal  in  Saltillo 58 

15  Primitive  Housekeeping  {Initial Letter) 60 

16  Kitchen  No.  i 62 

1 7  Kitchen  No.  2 63 

iS  My  Household  Gods 65 

19  The  Wood 63 

20  Taking  their  Meals  in  the  Market 6g 

21  Selling  their  Little  Stockings  and  Hoods  70 

22  Pulque  Shop — Patting  Tortillas — Selling  Flour — Newsboys 71 

23  "  There  goes  the  Mexican  Railroad  !  " 78 

24  "  Huevos  !    iiuEVOs  !  " 7g 

25  "Six  for  a  real  ! " 80 

26  "It  will  give  me  Disease  of  the  Liver  " 77 

27  "  No  ES  COSTUMBRE  !  "  {Initial  Letter) 84 

28  "  Will  YOU  BUY  A  Broom  ?" 85 

29  "  No  es  Costumbre  !  " 89 

30  .\  Typical  Market  Scene 91 

31  A  Hungry  Purchaser  94 

32  No  !  no  hay  :  (there  is  none.) 95 


26  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


FACE 


33  Pio  Qlunto  (Pius  V.)  as  a  I)i  iorki;i;i'KR   97 

34  A  Street  Scene q8 

35  "  Oh,  forgive  me,  I'll  never  do  so  again  " loo 

36  By  the  Wayside  {Initial  Letter) 102 

37  "  Well,  now,  I'm  going  " 103 

3S  A  Country  Store 105 

39  ••  Pulque  in  Sheepskins  Filled  even  to  the  Feet  " 108 

40  Bound  for  Palomas 109 

41  A  Picturesque  Traveler no 

42  As  I  Looked  when  Mounted  upon  the  Sofacita 112 

43  At  Home  under  the  Aqueduct.   115 

44  Sweet  Contentment  at  the  "  Pass  of  the  Doves  " 121 

45  ■■  Your  American  Customs  are  too  hard  on  me  ! " 123 

4fi  ( )LD  Stone  Church  at  El  Paso,  Texas 125 

47  "  All  Aboard  !  "  {Initial  Letter) 127 

4a  The  Street  of  Guadalupe,  Chihuahua 129 

49  Water-carrier  of  Sani  a  Rosalia 132 

50  Top  of  Kitchen  Chimney  in  Santa  Rosalia 133 

5 1  Wending  their  Weary  Way .  .      1 35 

52  City  of  Zacatecas 140 

53  The  National  Palace  at  Aguas  Calientes 143 

54  The  Puen te  Encarnacion 145 

55  Monument  to  Maximilian  at  Queretaro   147 

56  Water-carrier  of  Queretaro 149 

57  The  great  Nochistoogo  Pass 151 

58  The  "  Home,  Sweet  Home  "  of  the  Mozo  of  San  Carlos 153 

59  '•  We  NEVER  furnish  Soap  and  Matches  in  this  Hotel" 154 

60  Past  and  Present  {Initial  Letter) 155 

61  The  Zccalo 1  jq 

(■j2  The  New  and  the  Old 1G2 

63  The  Cathedral  167 

64  Water  CARRIER  at  the  Capital  1 70 

65  Tree  of  the  Little  Hands  {Colored  Plate) 1  74 

f>6  The  Aztec  Calendar  Stone 178 

(>^   loi.TEC — Colossal  Head  in  Diorite 1 70 

fi8    HUITZILPOTCHI.I,  THE  AZTEC  GOD  OF   WAR iSo 

69  An  Ancient  House  on  the  Viga  Canal,  and  a  few  of  the  Passers-hv 183 

70  Chapultepec,  with  Vif.w  of  Military  Collegic  in  the  Extension 185 

71  Scene  in  the  Alameda igq 

72  Idlers  in  the  Zocalo iqi 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


-/ 


PACE 

73  POPOCATAPETL  AND  IzTACClHUATL Ig4 

74  The  Pet  of  the  Household  {Initial  Ldlcr) IqS 

75  Entrance  to  a  Mexican  Home 203 

76  '■  One  Little  Moment" 211 

77  "  He  is  too  Stingy  to  pay  his  Debts" 211 

7S  "  He  PLAYS  ON  the  Credulity  of  HIS  Friends  " 211 

79  "  She's  very'  rich,  has  plenty  of  Money  " 211 

So  A  Very  Great  Critic 212 

81   "  Adios" 212 

83  •■  He's  A  Sharpf.r  " 212 

83  Salutation  from  Balcony  .......  212 

84  "  You  can't  do  that  now  "  213 

S5  Interior  of  Chapel  on  the  Hacienda  of  Sra  Guadalupe  Bros 216 

86  The  Palacio  Mansion 219 

87  Stairw.iy  in  the  Palacio  Home 223 

83  The  Sala  Grande  in  the  Palacio  Home 226 

Sg  Corridor  in  the  Palacio  Home 229 

go  Washstand  in  a  Mexican  House 233 

91  An  Orchid 235 

g2  Little  Alfonso.     "  I  know  English  " 23S 

93  The  Tulipan  (Initial  Letter) 242 

94  Flor  de  la  Noche  Buena  (Colored Plate) 246 

95  Ready  for  the  Fiesta 250 

96  An  Orchid  with  Pink  Centre 250 

97  A  Few  of  those  who  Attended  the  Feast  of  Guadalupe 2:3 

gS  Cathedral  of  Guadalupe  and  the  Chapel  on  the  Cerro  del  Tepay.'vc 255 

99  Bits  Fro.m  Gu.\dalupe 262 

100  His  Stock  in  Trade  of  Gay  Pinates.  . . : 265 

10:  The  Pretty  "  China  Poblana  " 270 

102  Love-making  from  the  Balcony 27S 

103  Hacendados 287 

104  Floripondio,  with  its  Snowy  Bells  (Initial  Letter)    293 

105  The  Indian  Village  of  San  Francisquita 295 

io5  Nevada  de  Toluca 298 

107  'Water-Carrier  ok  Guanajuato 302 

io3  An  Object  of  Horror  305 

log  College  of  San  Nicolas 309 

no  Monument  to  Morelos,  Calle  Real  311 

in  First  P.\tio  in  College  of  San  Nicolas 313 

H2  Soldiers  of  1821  {Initial  Letter) 315 


28  ILLCSTRA  1  lOXS. 

PAGE 

113  The  Patriot  Hidaloo 317 

1 14  Jijsft  Maria  Morei-OS 323 

115  The  ICmperok  Augustin  de  Iturbide ...   328 

I ri)  Madame  Itiriside  and  Son 33S 

117  Vicente  Guerrero 340 

iiS  Guadalupe  Victoria ■ 343 

119  General  Santa  Anna,  when  President  for  the  Third  Time 345 

120  Manga  de  Clavo,  the  H.\cienda  of  Santa  Anna 346 

121  Santa  Anna  at  the  Time  of  his  Death 348 

122  Benito  Juarez    350 

123  Tomb  of  Juarez 352 

124  Gomez  Farias 357 

125  IGNACIO    M ARISCAL 361 

126  Matias   Romero 366 

127  General  Ramon  Corona 371 

12S  The  Language  of  the  Sword  and  the  Work  of  the  Good  Friars  {Initial 

Inciter) 374 

i2g  Bernardino  de  Sahagun 375 

130  Las  Casas 37S 

131  Vicente  Riv a  Palacio 380 

132  Francisco  Sosa 3S3 

133  GuiLLERMO  Prieto 3go 

134  Sitting  in  the  Zocalo  {Initial  Letter) 3g5 

135  A  Typical  Indian  Village    308 

136  Before  her  Humble  Cottage   Home 400 

137  A  Chicken  Vender  402 

138  The  Artist's  Revenge. 407 

139  A  Mountaineer 411 

140  Petate,  Jarana  and   Pottery-venders 418 

141  Debit  and  Credit  Accounts  ok   Servants 422,  423 

142  "  Your  Obedient  Servant  " 424 

143  Mictel  Mondrecon    424 

144  Cradle  of  a  Poor  Baby 426 

145  A  Tortilla  Establishment 429 

140   (iRFGORIA   (,)UIR0S 430 

147  Wash-house  at  the  Capital 432 

1 48  Washerwomen  in  the  Country 432 

140  Water  carkiek 433 

150  .\  Celestial  Monopoly 436 

151  vicenta  :  "  i  became  a  lioctor  by  my  natl  rai.  intelligence" 439 


JLL  US TRA  TIONS.  -9 

I'AGE 

52  A   BUN'CH  OF  Graniditas  {Initial  Letter) 441 

53  A    Hay-rick  442 

54  Corn-crib      443 

55  Casa  de  Maternidad 444 

56  Street  in  Puebla 446 

57  Street  and  Arcade  in  Puebla 452 

58  Pyramid  of  Cholula 457 

59  F.L  Castillo,  or  "  Hill  of  Flowers  " ...   459 

60  Pyramid  or  Papantla 4<')i 

61  Aqueduct 467 

62  Scenes  in  the  Tropics ' 470 

63  The  Virgin  Appe.aring  to  Juan  Diego  (Initial  Letter) 473 

64  The  Nana  and  the  Children  (Initial  Letter) 476 

65  The  Good  Nana 480 

66  Listening  to  the  Stories 4S1 

67  "  El  Pato  " 4S3 

68  My  Window  (Initial  Letter] 4S5 

6g  Carrying  the  Clothes  Home  486 

70  Potato  Vender 4S6 

71  A  Familiar   Type 4S7 

72  Basket  Venders 48S 

73  Indian  Mother  and  Child 490 

74  Venders  of  Cooked  Sheep's  Heads 493 

75  Montezuma's  Culinary  Artists  (Initial  Letter) 404 

76  The  Estiladera 495 

77  Kitchen  at  the  Capital  501 

78  American  Enterprise  (Initial  Letter) ., 50; 

79  Interior  of  Mexican  Episcopal  Cathedral 508 

80  Simon  Lara 512 

81  Gen.  Henry  R.  Jackson _ 516 

82  A  Stray  of  Cactus  (Initial  Letter) 53S 

83  The  Old  and  New  Civiliz.\tion 539 

84  National  Palace  at  the  Capital 54' 

85  The  City  of  Durango 549 

86  El  Capitan 552 

87  A  Mexican  Ploughman 553 

SS  Adobe  Houses 554 

8g  An  American  Miner 557 

go  Basket  of  Fruit 55S 

gi  Mango  and  Seed 559 


30  ILL  VS 1 RA  TIONS. 


PAGE 


iy2  Yellow,  Black  and  White  Zai-otes 560 

193    M AMEY  AND  SeID 560 

ig4    The  Tlachiquero 562 

195  A  Street  Shoemaker 563 

196  "  On  Account  of  the  Air  " 569 

197  Policeman  on  Duty 570 

19S  A  Company  of  Rurales 571 

igg  Church  of  Sacro  Monte,  Amecameca 577 

200  The  City  of  Mexico 576 

201  Scene  in  Mexico 582 

202  The  Flags  of  the  two  Republics 5S3 


^•-*^" 


■^^gtm--^^'^'^'^''-^'^^'^''^^^  "■  ■ 


MEXICAN     r'l.AZA.     TOrNTAIN,    AM)     CATHEDRAL. 


FACE  TO  FACE  WITH  THE  MEXICANS. 


CHAPTER    I. 


A   NEW   HOME   AND    NEW   FRIENDS. 

/  A L  TILLO  !    Saltulo  !    Saltillo  !  " 
^  These  piercing  cries  rang  out  again  and  again 

on  the  still  morning  air  in  the  long  ago  from  the 
?/'     lips  of  a  terrified  Tlaxcalan    boy  away  up  in  the 
/    Sierra  Madre  Mountains. 
"■"jV'  ',1''  But  what  do  they  mean  ? 


~rv'm\-i^ii!l        ^s  is  well  known,  Mexico  is  a  land  of  song,  romance, 


and  tradition,  and  these  are  inseparably  intertwined  in 
the  lives  of  the  people.  Every  noted  spot  has  its  legend,  which  de- 
scends not  only  to  posterity  but  also  to  strangers.  As  the  tradition 
about  the  founding  of  Saltillo  lends  something  of  interest  to  a  so- 
journ of  several  months  in  that  city,  I  tell  it  as  it  was  told  to  me  ; 
in  doing  so  reserving  the  right  to  say  that,  like  most  traditions,  it 
has   a  decidedly  madc-to-order  air. 

The  little  Indian  boy  before  mentioned  had  an  aged,  infirm,  and 
blind  old  uncle.  Now,  it  was  a  strange  fancy  of  this  blind  man  to  take 
a  stroll  very  early  every  morning,  and  it  was  the  duty  of  this  little 
nephew  to  hold  him  by  the  hand  as  a  guide  to  his  steps,  as  well  as  to 
amuse  and  entertain  him  on  the  way. 

The  spring  known  in  Saltillo  as  E/  ojo  de  agua  (the  eye  of  water) 
breaks  boldly  forth  from  the  craggy  rocks,  and  in  its  fall  trans- 
forms itself  into  a  pool  of  considerable  depth.  The  water  is  as  cold  as 
ice,  and  shimmers  and  glistens  in  the  white  sunshine  as  it  reflects  on 
3 


34  FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

its  crystal  surface  the  towering  mountains  and  the  deep  azure  of  a 
faultless  sky. 

This  spring  supplies  the  entire  city  with  water,  which  is  conveyed 
through  antiquated  earthen  pipes  to  the  fountains,  and  thence  borne 
by  carriers  into  the  houses. 

But  to  the  tradition  :  This  inconsiderate  old  uncle  was  being  led 
by  his  nephew,  who  was  endowed  with  the  very  same  tastes  and  in- 
stincts as  all  other  boys,  regardless  of  caste  or  complexion,  the  world 
over.  As  they  approached  the  ojo  dc  agtia,  the  whirring  sound  of  a 
thousand  birds  in  flight  over  their  heads  caused  the  boy  to  drop  his 
uncle's  hand  and  look  upward,  with  head  thrown  back,  straight  hair 
standing  at  right  angles,  and  great,  wild,  black  eyes,  gazing  at  the 
myriad  of  birds  that  seemed  to  mottle  the  whole  sky. 

The  uncle'  having  no  support,  began  to  totter  and  hold  out  his 
arms,  calling  loudly,  but  to  no  purpose,  for  his  forgetful  guide.  Inch 
by  inch  the  old  man  felt  his  way  over  the  rough  stones  ;  a  step  more, 
and  there  was  a  plunge,  a  scream,  and  the  unfortunate  uncle  was 
floundering  in  the  "  eye  of  water."  The  young  truant  was  recalled  to 
himself,  but,  being  paralyzed  with  fright,  could  only  scream  and  wring 
his  hands  wildly,  exclaiming: 

"  Saltillo  !  Saltillo  !  "  (Get  out,  uncle  !) — an  injunction  as  heartless 
as  it  was  impossible  to  obey. 

At  this  critical  moment,  some  passing  arrieros  (mule-drivers)  com- 
passionately rescued  the  drowning  man,  and  so  happily  ends  the 
tradition.  * 

Posterity,  studying  out  of  cold,  unsympathetic  lexicons  all  kinds 
of  puzzling  derivations,  finds,  according  to  some,  that  the  verb  salir 
signifies  "  to  go  out;"  .y^^/,  the  first  syllable,  means  "  get  out;"  and 
tio  (uncle)  has,  as  perhaps  in  this  case,  been  mispelled  or  corrupted 
into  tillo,  as  Saltillo  (pronounced  Sal-tee' -yd),  the  liquid  //  being  more 
euphonious  in  the  Mexican  tongue. 

Others  yet  believe  that  Saltillo  comes  from  the  language  of  the 
Chichimecas,  and  signifies  "  High  land  of  many  waters."  In  almost 
any  direction   may  be  seen  innumerable   sparkling  cascades  of  limpid 


A    NEW  HOME   AND   NEW  FRIENDS.  35 

water  bursting  from  the  apex  of  the  mountains,  descending  in  a 
crystal  sheet,  and  reflecting  the  prismatic  glories  of  the  rainbow  as 
they  go  murmuring  along  to  the  valleys  below.  This  may  give  cred- 
ence to  this  version.      Saltillo  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Coahuila. 

The  name  Coahuila,  according  to  some  historians,  means  "  Happy 
Land,"  while  others  claim  its  signification  to  be  "  Vibora  que  viicla  " 
(flying  snake).  It  is  possible  that  this  latter  is  the  real  derivation,  as 
snake  in  the  Indian  is  Coat/,  and  /lui'/a  means  to  fly.  This,  taken 
together,  may  have  some  reference  to  the  great  temple  of  Huitchiolo- 
pochtly,  the  Aztec  war  god,  which  was  surrounded  b\-  ,i  square  wall 
called  aw//^rt;^^'/^' (snake  wall),  carved  within  and  without  with  myriads 
of  these  creatures.  In  the  minds  of  those  who  had  the  naming  of  the 
States  there  must  have  been  an  idea  that  the  bleak  and  barren  aspect 
of  Coahuila  was  sufficient  to  cause  the  exodus  of  even  these  not  over- 
fastidious  reptiles. 

In  view  of  these  forbidding  physical  features,  the  term  "  Happy 
Land  "  must  have  been  given  in  a  spirit  of  satire  ;  or  perhaps  some 
consumptive  writer  of  poetic  verse,  enchanted  by  the  fine  dry  climate, 
pure  atmosphere,  and  blue  skies,  bestowed  the  title  in  gratitude  for 
their  salubrious  effects. 

Saltillo  was  once  also  the  capital  of  Texas  when  that  great  State 
formed  an  unwilling  member  of  the  Mexican  federation.  It  has  a 
population  of  about  twenty  thousand,  and  is  situated  on  the  Buena 
Vista  table-land  in  the  Sierra  Madre  Mountains,  at  an  elevation  of 
about  five  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  sea-level. 

It  was  founded  on  the  25th  of  July,  1575,  by  one  Francisco  Urdi- 
flola,  who  brought  with  him  sixty  Tlaxcalan  families  who  were  bitter 
foes  of  the  Aztecs  and  firm  allies  of  the  conquerors. 

The  city  is  the  seat  of  important  manufactures,  both  woolen  and 
cotton.  Here  are  made  rebozos  (a  long  narrow  shawl  worn  by  women 
over  their  heads),  and  also  those  gorgeous  and  durable  jfrtf/'« (blankets), 
of  finest  wool  and  most  brilliant  colors,  which  have  gained  so  wide  a 
celebrity  that  the  term  "Mexican  blanket"  is  a  synonym  for  a  genu- 
ine and  almost  everlasting  fabric. 


36 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


It  has  the  usual  places  for  recreation,  a  bull-ring,  plaza,  and  ala- 
mcda;  a  cathedral  worthy  of  inspection,  also  numerous  churches,  with 
a  full  quota  of  schools  and  colleges. 

We  were  a  party  of  Americans   on    business,  health,  and  pleasure 

bent.     Our  company  consisted  of  Mr.  and   Mrs.  R- ,  the  former  a 

retired  banker  from    a    large  western  city;   Mr.  and   Mrs.  A ,  Mrs. 


CALLE   REAL,  RALTILLO,  SHOWING  PLAZA  ON  THE  RIGHT,  A   CORNER    OF  THE  CATHEDRAL   GARDEN  ON  THE  LEFT, 
EXTENDING    UP  THE   MOUNTAIN,    WITH    VIEW  OF   AMERICAN    FORT    IN    EXTREME    LEFT-HAND    CORNFR. 

S and  daughter,  my  husband  and  self.     As  the  hotel  accommoda- 


tions were  meager  and  uncomfortable,  and  it  not  being  the  custom 
of  the  coimtry  for  families  to  live  in  hotels,  we  concluded  to  go  to 
housekeeping,  as  our  stay  was  indefinite,  and  might  extend  through  a 
few  weeks  or  months. 

We  found  this  picturesque  old  city  teeming  with  interest ;  many 
quaint  old  adobe  bridges  span  the  arroyos  (dry  streams),  and  the  drives 
through  the  orchards  in  the  Indian  pueblos  adjoining  are  full  of  cxub- 


A    NEW  HOME   AND   NEW  FRIENDS.  37 

erant  life  and  color.  The  noblest  view  is  from  the  brow  of  the  San 
Lorenzo,  where  are  situated  the  fine  medicinal  springs  and  baths  which 
tourists  as  well  as  natives  enjoy.  The  drives  in  whatever  direction  are 
full  of  thrilling  historic  associations,  the  city  having  been  the  coveted 
ground  of  the  contesting  forces  in  untold  battles  and  desperate  en- 
counters. 

But  no  street  or  highway  interested  me  so  much  as  Calle  Real,  one 
of  the  principal  and  most  delightful  thoroughfares  of  the  city.  By  a 
circuitous  route  and  steep  ascent  it  led  to  the  American  fort,  and, 
circling  to  the  right  over  the  smooth  table-lands,  on  to  La  Angostura 
(the  Narrows),  where  lies  the  famous  battle-field  of  Buena  Vista. 

Since  the  founding  of  the  city,  Calle  Real  has  figured  conspicuously 
in  its  history.  The  patriot  Hidalgo  and  his  chosen  brave  followers 
must  doubtless  have  passed  down  this  street  to  meet  their  fate — be- 
trayed by  friends. 

The  history  of  this  grand  captain's  career  was  fresh  in  my  mind, 
and,  as  I  looked  upon  this  long,  narrow,  and  winding  street,  I  pictured 
the  fearless  leader  of  the  great  cause  of  the  Mexican  people,  with  head 
erect  and  eye  as  bright  as,  when  a  victor,  he  heard  the  wild  plaudits 
from  the  thousand  dark  brothers  of  his  race  who  had  flocked  to  his 
standard. 

Then  the  scene  would  change,  and  the  forms  of  my  own  martial 
countrymen,  who  had  so  often  passed  up  and  down  this  street,  nearly 
two  score  years  ago,  would  take  the  place  of  the  dauntless  Hidalgo.  I 
lost  sight  of  the  present,  and  saw  American  soldiers,  with  stars  and 
stripes  floating  proudly,  move  rapidly  in  solid  columns  of  infantr)-,  and 
heard  the  tread  of  the  bronzed  cavalrymen,  and  the  rattle  of  sabers 
and  the  clear-ringing  words  of  command  in  my  own  language.  I  saw 
the  angry  gleam  of  dark  eyes  and  heard  mutterings  in  the  strange 
tongue  as  the  Americans  marched  up  the  steep  hill  to  take  possession 
of  the  fort  that  commanded  the  city. 

Another  change  :  the  shade  of  Hidalgo  has  vanished  ;  the  stars  and 
stripes  no  longer  float  under  the  unclouded  sky.  In  imagination  I  see 
the  flag  of   the  French   Empire  and  the  eagles  of  Austria  streaming 


38  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

over  tlie  city,  and  the  gorgeous  uniforms  of  the  soldiery  of  two  mij^hty 
empires  mingling  with  the  rude,  dark  forms  that  look  on  them  with 
wondering  eyes  of  mute  protest  and  reluctant  admiration.  Wild 
carousal  is  heard  on  every  side,  and  wine  flows  like  water.  The  harsh 
accents  of  the  Austrian  and  the  volatile  utterances  of  the  Frenchman 
fill  the  air. 

The  panorama  moves  on.  Gone  are  the  foreigners.  Their  chief 
lies  dead  in  the  stately  burial  place  of  the  Habsburgs.  Miramon  and 
Mejia  rest  in  San  Fernando,  and  the  banner  of  the  Republic,  with  its 
emblematic  red,  green,  and  white  bars  and  fierce  eagle,  waves  proudly 
over  the  people  freed  from  a  foreign  foe  and  hated  alien  rule. 

War  and  revolution  have  yielded  in  turn  to  the  softening  influen- 
ces of  well-earned  peace  and  tranquillity.  The  passions  of  those  peril- 
ous times  are  long  since  dead;  our  quondam  enem\'  is  now  our  friend, 
and  an  American  woman  is  at  liberty  to  peacefully  erect  her  house- 
hold gods  among  them. 

Both  courage  and  resolution  were  necessary  in  transplanting  our- 
selves to  this  terra  incognita ;  but  the  climate,  the  hospitality  of  the 
people,  the  beautiful  scenery,  the  novelty  of  the  surroundings,  which 
every  (la\'  afforded  delight,  would  of  themselves  reconcile  one  to  ex- 
cliaiiging  the  old,  the  tried,  and  the  true  for  the  experiences  of  an  un- 
known world. 

The  house  selected  for  our  Bohemian  abode,  we  were  assured,  was 
almost  one  hundred  years  old,  and  had  an  air  (if  solemn  dignit)'  and 
grandeur  about  its  waning  splendor.  It  was  of  startling  dimensions, 
capable  of  quartering  a  regiment  of  soldiers  with  all  their  equipments. 
It  was  one  story  in  height,  with  a  handsome  orchard  and  garden  in  the 
rear,  extensive  corrals  for  horses,  the  whole  e.xtending  from  street  to 
street   through  a  huge  scjuare  of  grounil. 

The  distinguishing  features  of  Mexican  and  Spanish  architecture 
were  evident  throughout  the  patio  (court-yard),  with  fountain  in  the 
center,  flat  roof,  barred  windows,  and  parapet  walls.  These  latter  rise 
often  to  the  height  of  six  feet  above  the  main  structure,  and,  in  times 
of  war  and  revolution,  have  proved  admirable  defenses  to  the  besieged. 


A    Nh  IV  HOME  AND   NE  IV  FRIES DS.  39 

Intrenching  themselves  behiinl  these  walls,  passage-ways  are  made 
from  one  house  to  the  other,  until  the  entire  block  of  buildings  is  one 
connected  fortification.  The  strife  may  continue  for  weeks  uninter- 
ruptedly, the  fusillade  not  ceasing  long  enough  to  remove  the  dead 
from  the  streets. 

The  size  and  unwieldiness  of  the  front  doors  were  amazing — noble 
defenses  in  time  of  revolution,  it  is  true,  but  when  with  m}'  whole 
strength  I  could  not  move  one  on  its  antiquated,  squeaking  hinges,  al- 
most a  half  yard  in  length,  the  question  of  how  to  pass  from  house 
to  street  became  a  serious  one.  The  happy  discovery  was  made  at 
last  that,  instead  of  two,  there  were  four  doors  all  in  one,  the  two 
smaller  ones  within  the  greater  serving  for  our  usual  ingress  and  egress. 
The  huge  double  doors,  spacious  enough  to  admit  a  locomotive  with  its 
train  of  cars,  were  never  opened  except  on  state  occasions  or  for  the 
admittance  of  a  carriage,  buggy,  or  something  out  of  the  ordinary, 
such  as  a  dozen  or  so  wood-laden  donkeys.  Not  only  funerals  and  bridal 
parties,  but  every  imaginable  household  necessit)'  for  pleasure  or  con- 
venience, must  pass  through  the  front  doors. 

In  the  zaguan  (front  hall),  high  up  in  the  cedar  beams,  darkened 
by  age  to  the  color  of  mahogany,  was  this  inscription  or  dedication 
in  large,  clear  letters:  "  Azw  Maria  Santisshna."  In  other  houses 
these  dedications  varied  according  to  taste.  One  read  "Sicinprc  viva 
en  esta  casa  Niiestra  Senora  dc  Guadalupe  "  (May  the  Virgin  Guadalupe 
always  watch  over  this  house).  Still  another  inscription  in  the  house 
of  a  friend  read  :  "Aqiti  viva  con  J^.  Jose  y  Maria"  "  May  Joseph  and 
Mary  dwell  with  you  here." 

We  were  astounded  at  the  size  and  length  of  the  keys,  and 
the  number  of  them  ;  they  were  about  ten  inches  long,  and  a  blow 
from  one  would  have  sufficed  to  fell  a  man.  As  there  were,  perhaps, 
thirty  of  them,  my  key-basket,  so  far  from  being  the  dainty  trifle  an 
American  woman  dangles  from  one  finger  in  her  daily  rounds,  would 
have  been  a  load  for  a  burro,  as  they  call  their  little  donkeys.  The 
enormous  double  doors  connecting  the  rooms  were  as  massive  as  if  each 
room   were   intended   for   a   separate   fortification.     The  opening  and 


40 


FACE    TO  FACE    WITH   THE  MEXICANS. 


A     FEW    OF  THE    KEYS. 


closing  of  these  heavy  doors  as 
they  scraped  across  the  floors 
gave  forth  a  dull,  grating  sound 
which  added  to  the  loneliness  of 
our  castle. 

Our  venerable  mansion  was 
constructed  of  adobe,  the  sun- 
dried  brick  peculiar  to  the  country. 
and  of  which  almost  the  entire 
city  is  built.  The  walls  were 
from  two  to  four  feet  in  thick, 
ness,  and  the  ceilings  thirty  feet 
in  height.  Surrounding  the  beau- 
tiful court-yard  were  many  large 
and  handsome  rooms,  frescoed  in 
brilliant  style,  each  different  from 
the  other.  Besides  these  there 
were  many  smaller  apartments, 
lofts,  nooks,  and  crannies,  more 
than  I  at  first  thought  I  should 
ever  have  the  courage  to  ex- 
plore. 

The  drawing-room  was  the 
first  thing  to  attract  ni)'  attention, 
as  it  was  about  a  hundred  feet 
long  and  fifty  wide.  Its  dado 
was  highly  embellished  by  a 
skillful  blending  of  roses  and 
buds  in  delicate  shades,  while  the 
frieze  was  the  chaste  production 
of  a  native  artist.  The  ceiling,  as 
before  mentioned,  was  thirty  feet 
in  height,  and  another  source 
of  surprise  to  me  was  the  discov- 
ery that  the  foundation  of  all 
this    elaborate   workmanship    was 


A    NEW  HOME   AND   NEW  FRIENDS. 


41 


of  the  frailest  material.  These  wonderful  artisans,  in  making  ceil- 
ings that  are  apparently  faultless,  use  only  cheese-cloth.  After 
stretching  it  as  tightly  as  possible,  and  adding  a  coat  of  heavy  sizing, 
the  beautiful  and  gorgeous  frescoes  are  laid  on,  and  the  eye  of  an 
expert  cannot  detect  the  difference  between  a  cloth  ceiling  and  the 
more  substantial  plaster  with  which  we 
are  familiar  in  the  United  States. 

The  floor  of  this  room  presented  an- 
other subject  of  inquiry  as  to  its  mate- 
rials and  the  method  employed  in  making 
it  so  hard,  smooth,  and  red.  Mortar, 
much  the  same  as  is  used  for  plastering, 
but  of  a  consistency  which 
hardens  rapidly,  is  the  basis 
of  operations.  On  this  a 
coating  of  fine  gravel,  very 
little  coarser  than  sand,  is 
applied.  Then  comes  the 
final  red  polish  which  com- 
pletes a  floor  of  unusual  cool- 
ness and  comfort,  and  admirably 
adapted  to  the  country.  The  mate- 
rial used  to  give  the  red  finish  is 
tipichil,  an  Indian  word,  in  some 
places  known  as  almagra,  an  abundant 
earthy  deposit  to  be  found  principally 
in  the  arroyos.  For  ages  this  substance 
has  been  an  important  article  for  ornamentation,  even  the  wild  tribes 
of  Indians  using  it  to  paint  their  faces  and  bodies.  When  the  floor  is 
hardened,  a  force  of  men  is  employed,  who,  by  rubbing  it  with  stones, 
produce  a  beautiful  glazed  polish.  If  time  were  of  any  value,  these 
floors  would  cost  fabulous  sums,  as  it  takes  weeks  to  complete  one  of 
them.  It  required  months  almost  for  me  to  comprehend  the  manner 
of  cleaning  them. 


"WOULD    HAVE    EHftN    A    LOAD    FOR    A    BUKKO. 


42 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


The  floors  of  the  other  rooms  were  of  imported  brick  and  tiles,  the 
former  not  less  than  a  foot  square  and  perhaps  half  as  thick,  while 
the  latter  were  octagonal  and  of  fine  finish,  though,  like  the  mansion 
itself,  they  bore  the  evidences  of  age  and  decay. 

We  enjoyed  the  unusual  luxury  of  glass  windows,  and  it  was  enough 
to  puff  us  up  with  inordinate  pride  to  look  out  and  see  our  neighbors' 
houses  provided  with  only  plain,  heavy  wooden  shutters.  When  it 
rained  or  was  cold,  however,  our  ill-fitting  windows  proved  an  inade- 
quate protection,  and  it  became  necessary  to  close  the  ponderous 
wooden  shutters,  thus  leaving  the  rooms  in  total  darkness. 

Our  windows  were  also  furnished  on  the 
outside  witli  iron  rods,  similar  to  those  used 
for  jails  in  the  United  States,  and  quite  as 
effective,  while  those  of  man\'  of  our  neigh- 
bors had  only  heavy  wooden  bars,  so  close 
together  as  scarcely  to  permit  the  hand  to 
pass  between  them.  These,  I  was  told  by  a 
Mexican  lady,  were  called  "  jealous  husbands' 
windows." 

In  the  middle  of  many  of  the  shutters  of 
some  of  these  houses  were  tiny  doors,  whose 
presence,  when  closed,  would  never  be  sus- 
pected. The}'  were  just  lai'ge  enough  for  a 
lace  to  peer  through,  and  when  passing  along 
the  street  on  cold  or  windy  days,  hundreds  of  soft,  languishing, 
dreamy  eyes  might  be  seen  gazing  out  of  these  little  windows. 

In  Mexican  architecture  the  window  is  second  in  importance  only 
to  the  roof  itself.  For,  the  next  thing  to  being  protected  from  the 
rain,  is  the  necessity  for  the  family  to  be  able  to  sec  into  the  street. 
The  walls  are  of  such  thickness  that  one  window  will  easily  accommo- 
date two  of  their  quaint  little  home  manufactured  chairs,  and  as  there 
is  no  front  stoop,  each  afternoon  finds  the  sefloritas  seated  in  these 
chairs,  taking  in  the  full  enjoj'ment  of  tlie  usual  street  scenes.  The 
illustration   on   page  43  shows  a  sefiorita  in  the   windmv,  while  on   the 


•I         t     ^^ 

"jealous  husbands    windows.' 


A    NEW  HOME  AND  NEW  FRIENDS. 


43 


Other  side  a  view  is  had  of  the  Httle  window  that  is  opened  on  a  cold 
or  rainy  day. 

The  roof  being  flat,  was  constructed  in  a  unique  manner,  having 
first  heavy  wooden  beams  laid 
across  the  top  of  each  room, 
and  then  planks  coated  with 
pitch  placed  on  these,  after 
which  twelve  inches  of  mother 
earth  were  added  ;  then  a  coat- 
ing of  gravel,  and  lastly  one  of 
cement,  the  whole  making  a 
roof  impervious  to  rain  or  heat, 
and  proving  the  admirable 
adaptability  of  Mexican  archi- 
tecture to  the  climate  and  the 
people. 

The  houses  in  general  are 
provided  with  roofs  of  adobe, 
and  some  of  the  plainer  ones 
in  which  I  became  a  visitor, 
when  the  rainy  season  was  at  [^ 
its  height,  gave  me  an  amus- 
ing insight  into  the  freaks  and 
tricks  of  the  "doby."  as  they  are  familiarly  termed.  When  there 
were  no  frescoes  on  the  cheese-cloth  canvas,  it  would  be  taken  down 
periodically,  washed  and  then  replaced  as  smoothly  as  a  plaster  ceil- 
ing. But  woe  betide  the  "  doby  "  roof,  when  the  rainy  season  makes 
its  advent.  The  treacherous  mud  covering  succumbs  to  the  pressure 
of  the  driving  water,  and  often  the  entire  room  or  house  is  submerged 
in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye.  Besides  the  main  leaks,  numerous  little 
bubble-like  projections,  like  pockets,  each  filled  with  water,  sagged 
down  the  canvas  in  various  places.  To  my  great  amusement  I  found 
that  my  ingenious  native  friends  had  always  on  hand  the  essentials  for 
stopping   the   leak,  such   as  an    old   broom   handle  or  strip  of  wood, 


TWO    VIEWS   FROM    ONE   WINDOW. 


44 


FACE    TO  FACE    WrfH    7 HE    J/EXICANS. 


which  by  the  aid  of  a  bent  pin  and  a  string,  manipulated  by  dexterous 
fingers,  soon  repaired  ail  damages. 

First,  all  the  little  sacks  of  water  are  conducted  by  means  of  the 
broom  handle  into  the  larger  one,  where  the  bent  pin  has  been  pre- 
viously attached  to  the  canvas  and  also  to  one  end  of  the  string.  To 
the  other  end  the  strip  of  wood  is  fastened,  and  under  this  a  bucket 
placed.  Twenty  minutes  from  the  time  of  the  first  onslaught  of  the 
torrent  through  the  roof  all  is  serene  and  calm  as  a  May  morning. 

Orders  were  given  at  once  to  the  woso  to  sow  the  roof  with  grass- 


WATEK  SPOUTS. 


seed,  so  as  to  prevent  another  catastrophe.  No  greater  protection  is 
found  for  an  ordinary  earthen  roof  than  that  afforded  by  a  solid  green- 
sward. The  roots  form  a  compact  net-work,  so  that  it  must  be  an  un- 
usually heavy  storm  that  can  penetrate  it. 

The  method  of  conducting  the  water  from  the  roof  is  in  keeping 
with  everything  else.  Great  heavy  gargoyles  or  stone  spouts,  weather- 
beaten  and  moss-covered,  tipped  with  tin,  full  ten  feet  in  length,  six 
in  a  line  on  either  side  of  the  court,  answered  the  purpose  in  our  man- 
sion. During  a  heavy  rain-storm  it  was  interesting  to  watch  the  steady 
streams  of  water   foaming  and   surging  into  the   court.      I  saw  a   dog 


A    MEW  HOME    AND    NEW   FRIENDS.  47 

knocked  senseless  to  the  ground    by  one   of  these  streams,  and  it  was 
several  minutes  before  he  recovered  his  breathing  and  yelping  faculties. 

The  ends  of  these  spouts,  in  many  instances  artistically  orna- 
mented, protrude  over  the  street.  In  more  modern  houses  conduits, 
a  few  inches  wide,  are  cut  into  the  sides  of  the  wall  and  cemented,  tak- 
ing the  place  of  the  stone  spouts.  They  are  quite  as  effective,  but  the 
quaintness  and  antique  appearance  of  the  houses  is  greatly  diminished 
by  them. 

In  the  carriage-house  there  still  remained  a  silent  old  relic  of 
Mexican  grandeur  and  aristocratic  distinction,  with  wheels  like  an 
American  road-wagon  and  hubs  like  a  water-bucket.  In  the  garden 
were  fruit-trees  and  the  family ///a  (bath).  The  latter  was  built  of 
adobe,  three  feet  high  and  twelve  feet  square,  without  cover,  the  water 
being  supplied  by  means  of  earthen  pipes  from  the  mountain  springs. 
A  fountain  and  exquisite  flowers  adorned  ihe pa/to,  a  climbing  rose  of 
unusual  luxuriance  at  once  attracting  special  notice.  It  was  evergreen, 
and  of  extraordinary  size,  extending  in  graceful  festoons  fully  one  hun- 
dred feet  on  either  side.  We  were  told  that  at  the  time  of  the  occu- 
pation of  Saltillo  by  Taylor's  army  this  same  vine  was  an  attractive 
feature  of  the  court. 

Imagine  the  dismay  and  apprehension  of  several  American  women 
at  thus  finding  themselves  surrounded  by  so  many  evidences  of  ancient 
refinement  and  culture,  and  yet  by  none  of  the  modern  necessaries  of 
housekeeping.  In  this  old  city  of  twenty  thousand  inhabitants  there 
was  not  a  store  where  such  indispensables  as  bedsteads  or  furniture  of 
any  kind,  pillows  or  mattresses,  could  be  purchased  ;  while  cofTee  or 
spice  mills,  cook-stoves  or  wash-tubs,  were  absolutely  out  of  the  ques- 
tion. How  we  managed  may  prove  interesting  to  those  who  contem- 
plate taking  up  their  residence  in  Mexico,  and  will  be  related  in  the  suc- 
ceeding chapters.  It  was  not  by  any  means  a  question  of  money  or 
price  that  prevented  one  from  being  comfortable  at  the  outset. 

We  ladies  were  constantly  portraying  to  each  other,  in  a  humor- 
ous way,  how  frightened  we  should  be  if  circumstances  should  ever 
require  any  one  of  us  to  remain    alone  in  this  old   castle  over  night; 


48  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

of  how  the  ghosts  and  hobgoblins  that  were  perhaps  concealed  in 
some  unexplored  crannies  might  come  forth  in  all  their  blood-curd- 
ling hidcousncss.  These  idle  fancies  and  banterings  of  the  hour  were 
vividly  recalled  one  night,  when  I  unfortunately  found  myself  the  only 
one  to  entertain  the  phantom  visitors. 

Every  other  member  of  the  household  had  gone  for  a  day's  jaunt 
into  the  country,  and  was  detained  from  home  over  night  by  a  ter- 
rific rain  and  thunder  storm.  The  servants,  supposing  they  would  re- 
turn, went  to  their  homes,  as  is  customary,  which  I  did  not  discover 
until  after  tlicy  had  left. 

In  the  dead  hours  of  the  night  1  was  aroused  from  deepest  sleep 
by  a  terrific  noise.  Quaking  with  fear  in  the  dim  light,  and  gripping 
the  pistol  which  was  on  a  chair  at  the  liead  of  my  bed,  I  proceeded, 
like  Rosalind,  with  a  "swashing  and  martial  outside,"  to  reconnoiter. 
A  brief  investigation  revealed  the  fact  that  the  fancied  ghost  or  hob- 
goblin \vas  nothing  more  alarming  than  a  "  harmless  necessary  cat," 
which  had  crept  in  surreptitiously  through  the  bars,  on  feline  mischief 
bent.  By  a  misstep  of  her  catship  there  was  a  general  crash  of 
crockery,  and  the  sudden  clatter,  breaking  with  startling  effect  on  the 
stillness  of  the  night,  made  me  imagine  that  the  hobgoblins  had 
really    trooped    forth    from    their   hiding-places. 

I  had  flattered  myself  that  the  diligent  study  I  had  given  the 
grammar,  previous  to  my  going  to  Mexico,  would  prove  an  "  Open,  Se- 
same! "  to  the  language,  but  I  soon  found  myself  sadly  mistaken  when 
I  heard  it  spoken  idiomatically  and  with  the  rapid  utterance  of  the 
natives.  But  by  eagerly  seizing  every  opportunity,  however  humble, 
of  airing  my  incipient  knowledge,  and  by  aid  of  grammar  and  diction- 
ary, my  inseparable  companions,  I  found  myself  in  a  few  weeks 
equal  to  the  exigencies  of  the  case,  and  rattled  off  my  newly  acquired 
accomplisiimcnt  with  a  reckless  disregard  of  consequences. 

Speculation  and  curiosity  were  ever  on  the  alert  to  make  discover- 
ies in  this  old  house,  and  at  every  turn  a  thousand  eclioes  seemed 
answering  my  timorous  step. 

Generations  had  here  lived  their  lives  of  sorrow  and  joy,  and  the 


A    NEW  HOME    AXD    NEW  FRIENDS.  49 

lightest  vibration  seemed  tiie  ghost  of  some  long-past  sigh  or  laugh, 
to  which  these  walls  had  resounded  ;  and  to  me  these  vast  old  rooms 
were  peopled  again  by  my  own  vivid  imaginings.  To  walk  twice  or 
thrice  around  the  court-yard  and  through  this  interminable  array  of 
rooms,  seemed  as  fatiguing  as  half  a  day's  tramp. 

In  one  of  these  perambulations  I  opened  the  door  of  a  room  into 
which  I  had  never  ventured  before.  An  ancient-looking  cupboard 
stood  in  one  corner,  filled  with  odd  remnants  of  dainty  china,  vases, 
bottles,  plates,  glass,  a  dilapidated  but  highly  decorated  old  soup- 
tureen,  and  some  pieces  of  broken  crockery  almost  half  an  inch  in 
thickness.  Man)'  faded  letters  were  thrown  loosely  about  on  shelves 
and  in  crevices.  A  descendant  of  Mother  Eve  could  do  no  less  than 
look  at  the  dates.  Some  were  a  hundred  years  old,  written  in  Spain, 
and  the  chirography  was  exceedingly  beautiful.  One  was  written  in 
the  city  of  Mexico,  by  a  husband  to  his  wife.  He  wrote  mott  tenderly 
to  the  pretty,  young  esposa,  begging  her  to  be  patient  until  his  return, 
which  was  to  be  in  the  near  future. 

Hanging  upon  the  wall  near  the  door  was  a  well-executed  oil 
portrait,  representing  a  lovely  Spanish  face.  The  graceful  pose  of 
the  figure  attracted  my  attention,  and  the  luminous,  speaking  eyes 
held  me  spellbound — the  same  eyes  which  have  so  long  made  Spanish 
and  Mexican  women  famous  in  song  and  story.  The  patrician  nose, 
the  classic  brow,  the  shapely,  rosy-lipped  mouth,  and  the  perfect  hand 
and  arm,  completed  a  picture  of  unusual  beaut\\  A  richly  gemmed 
crown  rested  upon  the  dark  hair,  and  in  the  lower  corner  of  the  pict- 
ure, inside  the  massive,  gilded  frame,  were  the  words  :  "Ana  sit  digna 
esposa  " — "  Hannah,  your  worthy  wife." 

Carefully  removing  all  dust  and  cobwebs,  I  carried  my  prize  to  the 
drawing-room,  and  hung  it  over  the  mantelpiece.  I  am  sure  I  never 
passed  it  without  glancing  at  that  perfect  face,  so  sweet  and  womanly 
in  its  expression,  and  experiencing  feelings  of  mingled  reverence  and 
pleasure. 

Much  diligent  inquiry  on  my  part  elicited  the  information  that  the 
portrait  was  of  Dofla  Ana,  wife  of  the  Emperor  .A.ugustin  de  Iturbide, 


50  FACE    TO   FACE     IVITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

the  first  and  only  crowned  head  to  occupy  a  throne  in  North  America 
since  its  settlement  by  Europeans. 

The  first  Sunday  morning  after  taking  possession  of  our  house,  I 
was  sitting  in  the  sunshiny  court  alone,  every  one,  even  the  uwzo,  being 
absent.  The  bells  from  perhaps  half  a  dozen  churches  answered  each 
other  across  the  bright  air,  reminding  me  with  some  painfulness  of 
the  church  bells  in  m}-  American  home,  the  thought  of  which  had 
filled  my  mind  with  longings  all  the  morning,  as  I  saw  the  gayly  dressed 
populace  hurrying  past  on  their  way  to  mass.  Suddenly  there  was  a 
gentle  tap  on  the  ponderous  outer  door.  Responding,  I  found  m)'self 
confronted  by  a  tall  youth  of  perhaps  sixteen,  fair,  rosy  cheeked,  black 
haired,  dark  eyed,  and  beautiful.  He  lifted  his  hat  politely  and  said 
in  good  English,  "  Good-morning,  Madame  !  " 

The  sound  of  my  dear  native  tongue  in  a  land  of  strangers  and 
from  the  lips  of  one  of  them  brought  my  heart  into  my  mouth  with 
delight  and  surprise.  My  visitor  introduced  himself  as  Jesus,  taking 
care  to  spell  his  name  plainly  for  me,  and  I  fear  my  face  betrayed  my 
horror  at  the  sight  of  an  ordinary  mortal  endowed  with  that  holy 
name.  He  informed  me  with  considerable  hesitation  that  he  was  a 
student  in  the  college,  and  wished  to  call  frequently  to  have  an 
opportunity  of  conversing  in   English. 

Having  obtained  permission  to  call  whenever  it  pleased  him,  he 
asked  if  he  might  bring  a  friend.  Accordingly,  Antero  P was  in- 
troduced— anotherpromising  youth,  equally  determined  to  improve  his 
English.  They  soon  brought  others,  and  among  my  most  pleasing  recol- 
lections are  the  occasions  when  the  college  boys— sometimes  a  dozen — 
gathered  about  me  on  Sunday  mornings,  with  bright,  dark  faces,  flashing 
eyes,  and  determined  expression,  as  they  wrestled  with  the  difficulties 
of  our  language.  Their  great  deference  and  thoughtfulness  for  me 
added  to  the  pleasure  I  derived  from  their  visits, — for  the  advantage 
was  mutual.     I  learned  the  Spanish  while  they  conquered  the  English. 

I  could  not  but  pity  the  other  members  of  our  party  who  so 
languished  with  home  sickness  that  they  quite  failed  to  reap  the  i)leas- 
ure  I  did  from  this  study  of  the  natives. 


,■/    XEIV   HOME   AND    NEW  FRIENDS.  d' 

Every  da}'  I  found  some  new  object  of  interest,  and  after  the 
house  had  been  explored  I  spent  hours  gazing  from  the  windows 
upon  some  of  the  strangest  scenes  I  had  ever  beheld.  Some  were 
extremely  pathetic  and  others  mirth-provoking. 

The  j'oung  children  of  the  lower  classes,  especiall)'  the  girls  from 
five  to  ten  years,  were  objects  of  peculiar  interest  to  me.  Dozens  of 
these  were  to  be  seen  in  the  early  morning  hours  going  upon  some 
family  errand  apparently,  judging  from  the  haste  and  the  pottery 
vessels  they  carried.  Their  tangled  hair,  peeping  out  from  under  the 
rcbozo,  their  unwashed  faces  and  jetty  eyes,  their  long  dresses  sweep- 
ing the  ground — and  looking  like  the  ground  itself — their  little  naked, 
pigeon-toed  feet  going  at  an  even  but  rapid  jog-trot,  all  formed  a 
laughable  and  ridiculous  picture. 

Often  their  hands  were  thrust  through  the  bars,  begging  money  in 
the  name  of  some  saint  for  a  sick  person. 

"  Tliico,  Sfiiorita,  pa  coniprar  la  incdccina  para  tai  infer  mo"  ("A 
cent  and  a  quarter,  lady,  to  buy  medicine  for  a  sick  person").  If  I 
asked  what  was  the  matter,  the  reply,  ''  Ticnc  ?nal  dc  cstoniago" 
("  Sick  at  the  stomach"),  came  with  such  unfailing  regularity,  I  was 
forced  to  the  conclusion  that  "  mat  de  cstomago  "  must  be  an  epidemic 
among  them. 

The  school  children  came  in  for  a  profitable  share  of  my  most 
agreeable  observations,  as  they  presented  themselves  before  me  in  all 
their  freshness  and  originality. 

It  is  not  the  custom  for  the  daughters  of  the  higher  classes  to  appear 
on  the  street  unattended.  I  rightly  concluded,  therefore,  that  these 
happy  little  friends  of  mine:,  who  created  such  a  fund  of  amusement 
for  me,  were  the  public-school  children  who  belonged  to  the  lower 
classes. 

They  passed  in  the  mornings  about  eight  o'clock,  and  returned  at 
five  in  the  evening.  The  girls  wore  rebozos  differing  from  their 
mothers'  only  in  size  ;  and  a  surprising  unanimity  of  style  seemed  to 
prevail. 

Their   hair    was    drawn    tightly    back,    plaited     behind,    the    ends 


52 


FACE     TO    FACE    IVI7H    7 HE  MEXICANS. 


doubled  under,  and  almost  universally  tied  with  a  piece  of  red  tape. 
Their  white  hose,  a  world  too  short,  had  an  antique  look  to  eyes  ac- 
customed so  long  to  the  brilliantly  arrayed  legs  of  the  children  of  the 
United  States.  Evidently  extra  full  lengths  had  not  reached  that 
country,  as  the  above-mentioned  hose  terminated  below  the  knee, 
where  they  were  secured  (when  secured  at  all)  with  a  rag,  string,  or  a 
piece  of  red  tape  of  the  same  kind  that  adorned  their  braided  locks. 
Those  who  wore  shoes  had  them  laced  up  the  front,  sharp  pointed  at 
the  toes,  and  frequently  of  gay-colored  material.  As  their  dresses 
sometimes  lacked  several  inches  of  reaching  the  knees,  the  interven- 
ing space  of  brown  skin  exposed  to  view  was  sometimes  quite  start- 
ling, especially  so,  if — as  was  often  the  case — their  pantalets  were 
omitted.  Frequently,  when  these  were  worn,  they  were  ver)-  narrow 
and  reached  the  ankle,  the  dress  retaining  its  place  far  above 
the  knee.  A  row  of  big  brass  safety-pins  down  the  front  of  their 
dresses  performed  the  office  of  buttons. 

The  boys   were    simply  miniature  copies  of  their  fathers,  wearing 
sashes,    snug    little    jackets,    blouses,    and    in    some    cases    even    the 

sandal. 

The  advent  of  one  of  these 
light-hearted  groups  was  always  a 
happy  diversion  to  me.  Often 
they  came  laughing  and  chatter- 
ins  in  a  srentle  monotone  down 
the  street,  throwing  paper  balls  at 
one  another,  playing  "  tag  " — it 
has  a  finer  and  more  sonorous 
name  in  their  majestic  tongue,  for 
it  rolled  off  euphoniously  into 
"  ahora  tii  iitc  cogcs  "  ("  now  you've 
caught  me  ") — performing  many 
other  pretty,  childish  antics  just 
after  some  peculiarly  heart-rend- 
ing spectacle  of  poverty  and   suf- 


A   GROUP    OF    MV    LITTLE    FRIENDS. 


A    NEW   HOME    AND    NEW   FR/EzXDS  53 

fering  had  wrung  my  heart.  They  soon  learned  to  divine  my  sym- 
pathetic interest  in  them,  and  occasionally  some  of  them  would  stop 
before  my  window,  and  exchange  with  me  amusing  remarks.  They 
were  very  bright,  and  laughed  incredulously,  exchanging  winks  and 
nods  with  each  other,  when  I  tried  to  make  them  believe  that  I  was 
a  Mexican.  I  asked  if  they  could  not  see  from  my  dark  hair  and 
eyes  that  I  was  one  ;  but  they  refused  to  be  convinced,  saying:  "You 
may  look  like  a  Mexican,  but  you  can't  talk  like  one."  In  the  course 
of  time,  all  shyness  vanished,  and  often,  when  in  other  parts  of  the 
house,  the  young  voices  gleefully  calling  "  Seflorita  !  Seflorita !  "  would 
bring  me  to  the  drawing-room,  and  there  would  be  my  barred  win- 
dows, full  of  little  dark  mischievous  faces,  their  brown  hands  stretched 
out  to  me  through  the  iron  bars,  through  which  their  dancing  eyes 
peeped.  When  my  housekeeping  was  in  better  running  order — com- 
paratively speaking,  of  course — I  sometimes  gave  tliem  trifling  dainties. 
Cakes  they  accepted  gladly,  but  when  in  my  patriotic  zeal  I  tried  to 
familiarize  them  with  that  bulwark  of  our  Southern  civilization — the 
soda  biscuit — they  rejected  it  uncompromisingly,  spitting  and  sputter- 
ing after  a  taste  of  it,  and  saying:  "iV(;  iios  gusta"  (''We  don't  like 
it  "),  "  Good  for  Americans — no  good  for  Mexicans." 

A  pretty  child  in  a  nurse's  arms  stopped  before  the  window,  and 
laid  her  tiny  brown  hand  on  me  caressingly.  Nurse  told  her  to  sing  a 
pretty  song  for  the  senora,  when  she  began  : 

No  me  mates  !  no  me  mates  !  no  me  mates  ! 

Con  pistola  ni  punal  ; 

Matame  con  un  besito 

I)e  tus  labios  de  coral. 

Don't  kill  me  !  don't  kill  me  !  don't  kill  me  ! 
With  a  pistol  nor  a  dagger  ; 
But  l<ill  me  with  a  little  kiss 
Of  your  pretty  coral  lips. 

I  asked  her  to  come  again,  and  as  they  moved  along  the  pretty 
creature  waved  her  hand  at  me,  ssym^-.^Maitana  !  cnla  viahanita"  ("To- 
morrow morning  very  early  "),  which  aroused  my  fears,  justly  enough, 


54  FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

for  I  never  saw  her  again,  it  being  tiieir  universal  custom  to  postpone 
everything  for  the  morrow — a  time  which  I  felt  would  never  come. 

The  mansion  and  its  associations  were  so  well  known  that  every 
servant  whom  we  employed  could  contribute  some  item  of  interest  con- 
cerning its  history.  An  old  citizen  related  to  me  that  at  the  time  of 
Gen.  Taylor's  entrance  into  the  city  there  were  in  it  nine  most  beautiful 

and  interesting  sefloritas,  daughters  of  the  original  founder,  Don  A . 

Naturally,  every  little  detail  and  event  concerning  them  was  eagerly 
absorbed,  and  nothing  gave  me  more  thorough  gratification  than  the  dis- 
covery that  my  very  first   and    best   friends   made  after  arriving  were 

the  descendants  of  one  of  these  nine  sefloritas.       Don   Benito  G , 

an  accomplished  gentleman  of  Castilian  descent,  who  has  occupied  the 
highest  positions  in  the  state,  wooed  and  won  his  lovely  bride  when 
she  was  in  her  early  teens,  and  for  many  years  they  remained  under 
the  paternal  roof.  Here  their  three  beautiful  children  first  saw  the 
light,  and  their  infantile  days  were  spent  in  these  grand  old  rooms, 
amid  the  flowers  of  the  court  and  surrounded  by  an  atmosphere  of 
beauty  and  refinement. 

At  the  time  of  our  acquaintance  these  favored  children  of  a  distin- 
guished family  were  in  the  bloom  of  early  manhood  and  wi>manhood, 
Jos6  Maria,  the  eldest,  aged  twenty-si.x  ;  Benito,  twenty-two  ;  and  Lib- 
erata,  a  lovely,  dark-eyed  girl  of  sixteen.  She  was  a  charming  repre- 
sentative of  her  Andalusian  ancestors  ;  the  graces  of  her  person  added 
to  the  beauty  of  her  disposition.  In  imagination  her  exquisite  flower- 
sweet  face  rises  before  me,  her  soft  luminous  eyes,  shaded  by  lashes  of 
wondrous  length  and  beauty,  sweeping  a  cheek  that  glovv'ed  like  a  lus- 
cious peach. 

These  friends  began  at  once,  without  ceremony  or  ostentation,  to 
show  nic  the  gentlest  attentions,  and  from  the  unlimited  treasure-house 
of  their  warm  Mexican  hearts  they  bestowed  upon  mc  a  generous 
devotion  that  brightened  my  life  and  made  me  love  and  resjiect  their 
land  and  their  people  for  their  sakes.  In  every  circumstance  they 
proved  to  be  animated  by  the  noblest  impulses  of  our  common  nature, 
and  one  of  the  happiest  discoveries  I  made  during  those  days  of  a  be- 


A    NE  W  HOME    AND    NE  W  FRIENDS.  5  5 

wildering  struggle  with  a  new  civilization,  was  that,  despite  the  repre- 
sentation of  many  of  my  own  countrymen,  fidelity,  tenderness,  and  un- 
tiring devotion  were  as  truly  Mexican  characteristics  as  American.  It 
is  doubtful  in  my  mind  if  the  people  of  any  country  lavish  upon 
strangers  the  same  warmth  of  manner  or  exhibit  the  same  readiness  to 
serve  them,  as  do  our  near-at-hand,  far-away  neighbors,  the  Mexicans. 

At  daylight  one  morning,  soon  after  we  were  installed  in  the  house 
of  his  ancestors,  Don  Benito,  Jr.,  accompanied  by  several  young 
friends,  favored  us  with  a  delightful  serenade,  in  which  the  beautiful 
Spanish  songs  were  rendered  with  charming  effect.  He  was  an  ex- 
cellent sportsman,  and  always  remembered  us  after  his  shooting  ex- 
cursions, while  I  received  daily  reminders  of  affectionate  regard  from 
Liberata,  the  gentle  sister. 

Don  Jos6  Maria  was  a  young  man  of  varied  accomplishments  and 
acquirements,  among  which  the  knowledge  of  English  was  duly  appre- 
ciated in  our  growing  friendship.  He  had  liberal  and  progressive 
ideas  ;  was  well  versed  in  American  literature,  was  a  regular  subscriber 
to  the  Popular  Science  Monthly,  North  American  Rcvieiv,  Scribncrs, 
Harper's  Magazine  and  Bazar,  besides  others  of  our  best  periodicals 
— and  took  a  lively  interest  in  our  politics. 

To  all  these  magazines  we  had  free  access  through  his  kindness, 
and  welcome  as  waters  in  a  thirsty  land  were  these  delightful  home 
journals,  where  mails  were  had  but  once  or  twice  a  week  in  this  liter- 
ary Sahara. 

After  the  death  of  his  mother,  when  Liberata  was  only  an  infant 
desiring  to  relieve  his  grief-stricken  father,  this  admirable  elder 
brother  took  almost  entire  charge  of  the  little  creature,  filling  the  place 
of  mother,  sister,  and  brother.  It  was  to  me  an  exquisitely  pathetic 
story,  this  recital  of  the  young  brother's  effort  to  train  and  care  for 
the  motherless  baby  girl,  even  superintending  the  buying  and  making 
of  her  wardrobe,  whicli  must  have  been  the  most  bewildering  feature 
of  his  bewildering  undertaking. 

Among  other  things  he  was  anxious  to  have  her  become  familiar 
with  American   methods  of  house  keeping  and  cookery.     I  could  but 


$6  FACE   TO  FACE    WITH  THE  MEX/CAA'S. 

laugh,  though  a  tear  quickly  followed,  when  she  described  how  her 
brother  translated  the  cooking  receipts  in  Harper's  Bazar,  and  then 
requested  her  to  have  American  dishes  concocted  from  them  ;  what 
moments  of  despair  she  had  over  the  unfamiliar  compounds,  and  what 
horrible  "messes"  sometimes  resulted  from  the  imperfectly  under- 
stood translations. 

This  devotion  of  brother  to  sister  often  recalled  a  similar  experi- 
ence in  my  own  life.  The  ideal  Jose  Maria  was  my  brother  William, 
who  had  made  a  like  idol  of  me.  His  was  then  a  newly  made  grave, 
and  I  had  only  time  to  place  a  flower  upon  it  before  beginning  the 
journey  to  old  Mexico.  While  I  had  stepped  across  the  boundary 
line  of  ages  and  was  endeavoring  to  decipher  the  hieroglyphics  of  an 
Aztec  civilization,  which  were  stamped  upon  every  form  and  feature 
that  I  saw,  here  I  stood  face  to  face  with  a  repetition  of  my  own  life. 
It  was  but  following  the  promptings  of  a  woman's  heart  to  believe  in 
these  kind  strangers  and  to  cherish  their  friendship. 

In  due  time  I  had  gathered  about  me  many  kind  and  congenial 
friends,  who  vied  with  each  other  in  contributing  to  my  happiness. 
One  of  these,  Dofta  Ppmposita  R ,  without  knowing  my  lan- 
guage, began  to  instruct  me  in  her  own.  Winks,  blinks,  and  shrugs 
did  the  most  of  it :  but  come  what  would,  she  never  gave  up  until 
everything  was  clear.  We  sat  in  the  patio  on  the  afternoon  of  her 
first  visit,  and  among  other  things  was  her  determination  that  we 
should  converse  about  Don  Quixote,  she  being  familiar  with  his  story 
in  the  original  and  I  in  my  own  tongue.  Many  of  the  humorous 
adventures  of  the  Don  were  called  up  by  her  in  the  most  amusing 
manner.  In  rapid  succession  she  mentioned  the  men  with  their 
"  pack-staves,"  the  "  wine-bags,"  and  was  finally  overcome  with  laugh- 
ter as  she  said  that  our  grand  old  house  reminded  her  of  the  isle  of 
Barataria,  where  Sancho  Panza  was  governor. 

She  then  sang  in  a  low,  sweet  tone  many  operatic  airs,  among  them, 
"Then  You'll  Remember  Me,"  and  others  equally  familiar,  possess- 
ing an  added  charm  in  the  sweet  Spanish.  Near  night-fall  she  arose 
to  go  home,  saying   Pancho — meaning  her  husband — would  soon   be 


.-/    NEIV  HOME   AND   NEW  FRIENDS.  57 

there,  and  she  wisl;ed  him  never  to  enter  their  home  and  find  her 
absent.  PLicing  her  arm  affectionately  about  my  waist,  in  her  sweet 
Spanish  she  said  to  nic  :  "  In  my  country  it  is  very  sad  for  you,  and 
you  are  far  from  your  home  and  people,  but  do  not  forget  I  am  your 
friend  and  sister  ;  what  I  can  do  for  you  shall  be  done  as  for  a  sister." 
Her  husband,  Don  Pancho,  shared  fully  in  her  professions  of  friend- 
ship, and  on  one  occasion,  when  a  hundred  miles  away  from  the  city, 
sent  us  2.  regalo  (gift)  of  a  donkey-load  of  grapes. 

In  striking  personal  contrast  were  my  two  most  intimate  friends 
among  Mexican  women.  Pomposita,  like  Liberata,  had  the  petite  fig- 
ure, the  dainty  feet  and  hands  peculiar  to  the  women  of  that  country ; 
but  unlike  her,  she  possessed  the  high  cheek-bones,  the  straight  black 
hair,  the  brown  skin  indicating  her  Indian  origin,  of  which  she  was 
justly  proud. 

But  there  was  no  contrast  in  the  exhibition  of  their  devoted  kind- 
ness and  friendship.  Both  were  equallj'  ready  to  assist  me  in  adapting 
myself  to  the  strange  order  of  things  and  to  aid  in  my  initiation  into 
the  mysteries  of  their  peculiar  household  economies.  In  case  of  sick- 
ness it  seemed  worth  while  to  suffer  to  be  the  object  of  such  exquisite 
tenderness,  and  experience  the  unspeakable  sweetness  of  their  sisterly 
ministrations. 

But  the  time  came  when  an  overwhelming  affliction  fell  upon  me, 
when  the  night  with  its  countless  stars  and  crescent  moon  told  of  no 
serene  sphere  where  tears  and  grief  are  unknown.  The  shadows  passed 
over  my  soul  without  a  gleam  to  enlighten  the  gloom  of  the  grave. 

The  oft-read  promise  to  grief-stricken  humanity,  "  Thy  brother  shall 
rise  again,"  was  powerless  to  console. 

My  sister  Emma,  the  loveliest  and  most  devoted  of  women,  was 
suddenly  called  from  this  bright  world  in  the  summer  bloom  of  her 
loving  life,  leaving  four  young  and  tender  children,  leaving  all  her  re- 
lations and  friends  grief-stricken  and  myself  in  the  depths  of  such  an- 
guish as  only  God  and  the  good  angels  know.  When  we  came  into 
this  world,  it  was  in  a  large  family  of  brothers  who  loved  and  petted 
the  two  wee  girls  with  all  the  devotion  of    noble-hearted  men.        But 


58 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH   THE  MEXICANS. 


the)-  had  long  gone  forth  into  the  world,  our  noble  parents  had  been 
called  to  their  last  home,  while  we  remained  together,  our  hearts  throb- 
bing in  unison.  Now  that  she  was  taken,  it  seemed  to  me  there  was 
a  void  that  no  space  nor  object  of  the  affections  could  fill,  and  the 
better  part  of  my  life   was  gone. 

In  these  darkened  and  burdened  days  of  grief  I  can   only  tell  how 
true,  loving,  and  tender  were  the  hands  that  ministered    to  me.     The 


PORTAL    IN     SALTILLO. 


other  members  of  our  party  were  absent  on  a  journey,  and  these 
strangers  nobly  filled  their  places.  In  the  long  and  painful  illness  that 
followed,  Pomposita,  Liberata  and  other  friends  never  left  me  for  a 
moment,  day  or  night,  and  in  deference  to  my  sorrow  all  were  robed  in 
somber  black.  Every  possible  delicacy  that  could  tempt  a  wayward 
appetite  was  brought  ;  notes  and  messages  came  daily  to  my  door,  and 
numberless  inquiries,  all  expressive  of  sympathy  and  a  desire  to  serve 
me,  from   the  male  relatives  of  my   friends.      These  affectionate  and 


A    NEW  HOME   AND    NEW  FRIENDS.  59 

tender  attentions  could  not  have  been  exceeded  by  those  endeared  to 
me  b}'  ties  of  blood. 

Pomposita,  thou<^h  so  younijj,  as  a  matron  took  precedence,  constitu- 
ting herself  my  special  nurse,  in  full  accord  with  the  Gospel  injunction 
to  love  her  neighbor  as  herself.  In  the  fevered,  silent  watches  of  the 
night,  how  gently  her  soft  little,  brown  hand  would  pass  across  my 
brow  as  she  murmured  her  sweet  words  of  endearment,  and  how  lov- 
ingly her  arms  encircled  me  as  she  held  me  to  her  warm  and  noble 
heart.  She  constantly  reminded  me  of  her  first  visit  and  her  assur- 
ance that  she  would  be  my  sister. 

In  every  way  they  all  sought  to  win  me  from  my  grief.  Indeeti,  it 
seemed  that  the  ministering  angels  themselves  had  deputed  their  high 
mission  to  my  devoted,  faithful,  and  gratefully  remembered  Mexican 
friends. 

In  this  land  of  sunshine  and  brightness  there  fell  upon  my  heart 
the  darkest  shadow  of  my  life,  the  shadow  of  the  tomb  of  my  sister, 
who  slept  the  dreamless  sleep  in  her  far-off,  lonely  grave. 


CHAPTER    II. 


IN    MOTHER    NOAH'S    SHOES.* 


HE  dearth  of  household  furniture  and 
conveniences  already  mentioned,  put 
ingenuity  and  will  force  to  their  utmost 
tension,  and  I  felt  as  if  transported  to 
antediluvian  days.  I  have  a  candid 
conviction  that  Mother  Noah  never  had 
cooking  utensils  more  crude,  or  a  larder 
more  scant,  than  were  mine.  It  may  be,  however,  that  the  "  old  man  " 
was  "good  to  help  around  the  house." 

This  was  before  the  time  of  railways  in  Mexico,  the  "  Nacionai 
Mexicano  "  having  only  penetrated  a  few  leagues  west  of  the  Rio 
Grande.  With  the  primitive  modes  of  transportation  which  served  in 
lieu  of  the  railway  it  was  not  advisable  to  attempt  bringing  household 
goods  so  far  over  a  trackless  country.  The  inconveniences  that  fol- 
lowed were  not  peculiar  to  ourselves,  but  common  to  all  strangers, 
who  like  us  could  neither  anticipate  nor  realize  the  scarcity  of  every 
household  appurtenance. 

The  natives  who  enjoyed  the  luxury  of  furniture — and  there  was 
a  large  number  who  had  everything  in  elegance — had  also  the  roman- 
tic recollection,  that  great  old  two-wheeled  carts,  towering  almost 
above  the  house-tops,  had  brought  it  from  the  capital,  nearly  a 
thousand  miles,  or  it  was  manufactured  by  the  carpenters  of  the  town. 
In  the  division  of  the  apartments  of  the  house,  one  half  was 
allotted  to  us,  while  our  friends  distributed  themselves  among  the 
remaining  rooms,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  court-yard,  the  drau'ing- 

*In  this,  the  two  succeeding  chapters,  and  wherever  the  common  people  are  mentioned, 

the  Spanish  used  is  idiomatic,  peculiar  to  the  class  it  represents. 


IN  MOTHER   NOAH'S    SHOES.  6l 

room    being    used    in    common.      Mr.    and    Mrs.   R employed    a 

cook  and  had  their  own  cuisine,  the  others  flitted  about  irom  fonda  to 
fonda  (restaurant)  in  search  of  sustenance.  In  the  evening  of  each 
day  we  would  meet  and  compare  notes  on  the  varied  and  amusing 
experiences  of  the  day.  However,  I  am  not  relating  the  adventures 
of  our  friends,  but  will  generously  leave  that  happy  task  to  them. 

Progress  in  furnishing  our  quarters  in  this  great  massive  structure 
was  slow  indeed.  How  I  longed  for  the  delightful  furnishings  of  my 
own  home,  which  remained  just  as  I  had  left  it. 

Fortunately  for  us,  a  druggist  had  two  spare,  pine  single  bedsteads, 
which  he  kindly  sold  to  us  for  the  sum  of  forty  dollars.  At  an 
American  factory  they  would  have  been  worth  about  four  dollars 
each.  One  was  painted  a  bright  red,  the  other  an  uncompromising 
orange.  They  were  cot-like  and  had  flat  wire  springs,  while  Mexican 
■blankets  constituted  the  entire  bedding,  mattresses  and  all.  Pillows 
were  improvised  from  bundles  of  wearing  apparel.  Fancy  how  they 
looked,  the  only  furniture  in  a  gorgeously  frescoed  room  twenty-five 
by  thirty-five  feet,  and  of  proportionate  height! 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  R were  much  less  fortunate  than  ourselves  in  pro- 
curing their  household  comforts,  or  rather  discomforts.  They  ordered 
two  cots,  which  were  covered  with  a  gayly  striped  stuff.  The  brilliant 
dyes  having  impaired  the  strength  of  the  material,  at  the  first  attempt 
to  lie  upon  these  treacherous  beds,  both  individuals  found  themselves 
suddenly  precipitated  upon  the  stone  floor.  No  one  in  the  house 
had  anything  in  the  way  of  bedding  to  lend  them,  and  in  the  darkness 
they  betook  themselves  to  the  hotel,  to  occupy  beds  of  iron,  proof 
against  collapse. 

A  friend  lent  us  six  hair-cloth  chairs,  and  a  table  which  had  many 
years  before  been  the  operating  table  of  his  brother,  a  surgeon.  It 
was  long,  green,  and  sagged  in  the  middle.  A  carpenter  was  employed 
to  make  the  remaining  necessary  articles  of  furniture.  He  labored 
on  the  customary  ;««««««  system,  and  while  his  calculations  as  to 
time  ranged  all  the  way  from  eight  to  fifteen  days,  I  found  he  actually 
meant   from    six  weeks  to  three  months.     He  showed  samples  of  his 


62 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


workmanship,  rocking-chairs  with  and  ^\•itllout  arms,  made  of  pine, 
stained  or  painted  or  varnished,  and  upright  chairs  with  cane  seat.'--. 
I  ventured  to  ask  when  he  could  complete  for  us  a  dozen  chairs,  four 
rockers,  and  some  tables.  Utterly  amazed,  he  looked  at  me  with  a 
smile  of  incredulity,  as  if  to  say,  "  What  can  }'ou  do  with  so  much 
furniture?"  He  disapproved  of  my  wish  to  have  oblong  and  round 
tables,  so  I  yielded  acquiescence  to  the  customary  triangular  ones  which 
grace  the  corners  of  every  parlor  of  respectability. 

It  now  becomes  necessary  to  introduce  what  proved  to  me  the  most 
peculiar  and  interesting  feature  of  home-life  in   Mexico.     This  is  not 

an  article  of  furniture,  a  fresco,  a 
pounded  earthen  floor,  or  a  burro 
or  barred  casement,  but  the  in- 
dispensable, all-pervading, and  in- 
comparable man-servant,  known, 
as  the  1I10Z0.  According  to  the 
prevailing  idea,  he  is  far  more 
important  than  any  of  the  things 
enumerated  in  my  household 
menage,  for  from  first  to  last  he 
plaj'ed  a  conspicuous  role. 

Forewarned — forearmed  !  The 
respectability  of    the   household 
depending  on  his  presence  ;    one  was  engaged,  the  strongest  cliaracter 
in  his  line — the  never-to-be-forgotten  Pancho. 

It  was  perhaps  not  a  just  sentence  to  pronounce  upon  this  indivi- 
dual, but  circumstances  seemed  to  warrant  the  comparison  I  involun- 
tarily made  between  our  watchful  Pancho  and  a  sleepless  bloodhound. 
At  night  he  curled  himself  up  on  a  simple /r/rt/r  with  no  pillow  and 
only  a  blanket,  and  was  as  ready  to  respond  to  our  beck  and  call  as 
in  the  day. 

In  this  house  were  two  kitchens,  representative  of  that  part  of  the 
country.  In  the  center  of  one  was  a  miniature  circus-ring  about  three 
feet  in    circumference,    consisting    simply  of    a    raised  circle    of  clay 


KITCHEN  NO.      I. 


IN  MOTHER   XOAH'S   SHOES. 


^Z 


about  one  foot  high.  This  constituted  the  range.  Little  fires  were 
built  within  this  ring,  one  under  each  of  the  pottery  vessels  used  in 
the  operations.  After  this  uncomfortable  fashion  the  cooking  was 
done,  the  smoke  circling  about  at  its  own  sweet  will  and  at  length 
finding  vent  through  a  small  door  at  one  side,  the  onl\'  opening  in  the 
room. 

The  sole  piece  of  furniture  was  a  worm-eaten  table  supported  on 
two  legs,  the  inner  side  braced  against  the  wall.  Its  decayed  condition 
indicated  that  it  was  at  least  a  hundred  years  old. 

Mrs.    R amused   herself  by  experimenting  on  the  circus-ring — 

minus  the  aid  of  horses,  however — a  docile  native  woman  executing 
what  "  ground  and  lofty  tumbling"  might  be  required  in  the  culinary 
preparations. 

The  second  kitchen  contained  another  style  of  range  equally  primi- 
tive in  its  design. 

Along    the  wall   was    built  a 
solid  breastwork   of   adobe,  about 
two  feet  high,  two  feet  deep,  and 
extending   the    entire   length     of 
the   room.     An  opening  was  left 
in  the  roof  over  this  structure  for 
the    escape     of   smoke,    but    the    ,.^_^ 
grimy  walls  proved  that  it  failed     Si 
to   answer    its    purpose.        Upon  - :,}!:, 
this   ledge,    projection,    or   what- 
ever it  may  be    termed,  the  cook 
places  her  various  pottery  vessels 
with    fires    made    of    charcoal   or 
small  bits   of    wood    under  each, 

and  there  the  stewing,  boiling,  frying,  and  crying  go  on  all  day.  This 
cook,  unlike  the  one  in  kitchen  No.  i,  stands  up  in  the  performance  of 
her  duties. 

When  I  inspected  these  kitchens,  it  may  be  imagined  that  the 
sight  was  rather  depressing,  coupled   with   the   certainty  that  I  could 


KITCHEN  NO.  2. 


64  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

effect  no  improvement.  But  we  had  the  luxur\-  of  one  tin)'  fire-place, 
to  which  in  my  despair  I  fled  for  refuge.  In  this  Httle  treasure  our 
scheme  of  housekeeping  was  inaugurated  with  results  both  brave  and 

gay- 

Among  the  latter  experiences  I  may  class  my  first  coffee-roasting, 
not  realizing  till  then  that  the  essential  feature  of  a  mill  was  lacking, 
and  that  I  was  at  least  five  hundred  miles  from  any  possible  purchase 
of  one. 

Pancho,  however,  was  equal  to  the  emergency,  and,  going  off,  soon 
returned  with  a  nutate.  (See  upon  the  floor  of  kitchen  No.  2,  a  por- 
trait of  this  important  culinary  utensil.) 

It  was  a  decidedly  primitive  affair,  and,  like  the  mills  of  the  gods,  it 
ground  slowly,  but  like  them,  it  also  ground  to  powder. 

The  nictate  is  cut  from  a  porous,  volcanic  rock,  and  is  about 
eighteen  inches  long  by  a  foot  in  width  and  eight  inches  in  thick- 
ness. The  upper  surface,  which  is  generally  a  little  concave,  is 
roughened  with  indentures  ;  upon  this  the  article  is  placed  and 
beaten  with  another  stone  called  a  inano,  resembling  a  rolling-pin. 
Almost  every  article  of  food  is  passed  between  these  stones — meat, 
vegetables,  corn,  coffee,  spices,  chocolate — even  the  salt,  after  being 
washed  and  sun-dried,  is  crushed  upon  it.  Such  a  luxury  as  "  table 
salt  "  was  not  to  be  had.  Previous  to  use  these  stones  are  hardened 
by  being  placed  in  the  fire.  The  rough  points  become  as  firm  as 
steel,  and  one  inetatc   will  last  through  a  generation. 

This  necessity  of  every-day  life  was  a  revelation  to  me.  The  color 
of  an  elephant,  it  was  quite  as  unwieldy  and  graceless,  but  its  import- 
ance in  the  homely  details  of  the  iiK'nage  was  undeniable.  It  had  but 
two  competitors  to  divide  the  honors  with — the  maguey  plant  and  the 
donkey.  They  were  all  three  necessary  to  each  other  and  to  the 
commonwealth  at  large. 

Equipped  with  an  inconceivable  amount  of  pottery  of  every  shape 
and  kind,  maguey  brushes,  fans  of  plaited  palm — the  national  bel- 
lows  wooden  forks,  spoons,  and  many  other  nameless  primitive  arti- 
cles, my  collection  of  household  gods  was  complete. 


IN  MOTHER   NOAirS   SHOES. 


The  first  meal  cooked  in  that  dainty  little  fire-place  was  more 
delicious  than  any  that  could  be  furnished  at  Dclmonico's.  In  his 
quaint  efforts  to  assist,  Pancho  perambulated  around  \\  ith  an  air  as  all- 
important  as  though  he  werecr/^r/^of  that  famous  ^it/c'.  But  the  climax 
of  all  was  reached  in  Pancho's  estimation  when  I  put  a  pure  white 
linen  cloth  on  my  green,  historic  table  and  arranged  for  the  meal. 
He  said  over  and  o\'er:  "  Muy  boiiita  ccna  !  "  ("  Very  pretty  supper"). 
But  I  discovered  it  was  the  attractions  of  my  silver  knives  and  forks 


MV    HOUSEHOLD    GODS. 


and  other  natty  table  ware  from  home  that  constituted  the  novelty. 
In  his  experience  fingers  were  made  before  knives  and  forks. 

I  found  my  major  domo  knew  everything  and  everybody  ;  the  name 
of  every  street,  the  price  of  every  article  to  be  bought  or  sold.  My 
curiosity,  I  presume,  only  stimulated  his  imagination,  and  the  more 
pleased  I  appeared  at  his  recitals  the  more  marvelous  were  his 
tales. 

He  gave  the  lineage  of  every  family  of  the  "  jailc  dcccnic,"  for 
generations,  his  unique  style  adding  pith  and  point  to  his  narrations. 
He  told  me  the  story  of  Hidalgo  and  Morelos  and  Iturbide  ;  the 
coming  of  the  Americans,  the  French  Intervention,  and  all  the  late 
revolutions,  until  my  head  rang  with  the  boom  of  cannon  and  the  beat 


66  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH   THE   MEXICANS. 

of  drum.  But  invariably  these  poetic  narratives  were  rudely  interrupted 
by  some  over-practical  intrusion.  In  the  same  breath  in  which  he 
completed  the  recital  of  the  Emperor  Iturbide,  he  suggested  ■  that 
wood  was  better  and  cheaper  than  charcoal  for  cooking. 

With  my  approbation  he  went  to  the  plaza,  returning  in  a  little 
while  with  a  man  who  brought  ten  donkeys,  all  laden  with  wood 
packed  on  like  saddle-bags.  I  asked  the  wood-vender  to  drive  his 
vicious-looking  dog  out,  when  he  complied  by  saying:  "Hist!  hist! 
Sal!"  Of  course  I  then  thought  the  dog's  name  was  Sa/,  but  soon 
found  the  word  meant  "get  out!"  As  the  dog  howled  on  being 
railed  at,  the  man  of  importance  again  yelled  at  him,  "  Callatc!  callatc 
el  ocico.  Click  !  "  ("  Shut  up — shut  your  mouth,  and  get  out  !  ") 

Constant  surprises  were  developed  before  my  eyes  every  hour  in 
the  day.  The  yelks  of  the  first  eggs  I  bought  were  white — indeed, 
this  was  often  the  case, — which  for  a  moment  dazed  me.  as  I  had 
never  expected  to  find  my  old  friend,  the  hen,  so  different  in  her 
habits  from  her  sisters  in  the  States.  But  the  qualities  of  the  egg 
were  identical  with  those  familiar  to  me  ;  however,  yielding  to  preju- 
dice, I  rejoiced  that  eggs  were  not  numbered  among  my  favorite 
edibles. 

The  difificulties  of  all  strangers  not  familiar  with  the  language  and 
idioms  of  the  country  were  a  part  of  my  daily  experience.  Pancho 
was  by  that  time  master  of  the  situation,  and  although  evidently  often 
amused,  his  thoughtfulness  in  relieving  nic  of  all  embarrassment 
never  failed.  Tliough  grave,  he  had  a  sense  of  humor.  This  was 
made  evident,  on  one  occasion,  when  I  had  been  using  a  hot  flat-iron. 
Having  finished,  I  told  Pancho  to  put  it  in  the  cocinera,  meaning  the 
kitchen.  I  heard  a  low  chattering  and  smothered  laughter  between 
him  and  the  cook.  Pancho  then  returned  to  my  room,  and  half  quiz- 
zically, half  serio-comically  said  :  "  Please  come  to  the  kitchen."  I 
went,  when  he  placed  himself  in  front  of  the  cook,  with  his  left  hand 
on  her  shoulder,  waved  his  right  arm  around  the  room  and  said  : 
"  Seflora,  look;  this  is  the  cocinera" — (cookl— "  and  this,"  again  wav- 
ing  the   right  hand   around  the  room,  "  is  the  cocina  !     Do  you  want 


IN  MOTHER   NOAH'S   SHOES.  6j 

me  to  put  the  planclia  calicrUc  (hot  iron)  in  the  cook,  or  in  the 
kitchen?"  Then  with  the  forefinger  of  his  right  hand  moving  hastily 
before  his  nose,  and  a  waggish  smile  on  his  face,  tlie  pantomime  closed 
with,  "  No  itsanios  iisi  "  ("  We  don't  use  them  this  way  "). 

Another  ridiculous  mistake  I  made  when  I  wanted  Pancho  to  buy 
me  some  cake,  and  told  him  to  get  louv  gateaux,  forgetting  that  bis- 
cocho  and  not  gateau  was  the  Spanish  for  cake.  Folding  his  arms,  he 
quietly  answered  without  a  smile,  if  he  might  presume  to  ask  the 
Sefiora  what  she  wanted  with  eiiatro  gatos — (four  cats!)  As  the  house 
was  already  overrun  with  these  animals  that  had  flocked  in  from  all 
quarters,  Pancho  naturally  wondered  why  I  wanted  to  add  to  my 
feline  tenants. 

Itinerant  venders  of  every  imaginable  commodity  were  constantly 
passing,  and  nothing  pleased  me  better  than  to  hold  conversations 
with  them,  which  they  too  evidently  enjoyed. 

Soon  after  the  episode  of  the  flat-iron,  I  heard  the  long  drawn  in- 
tonation of  a  vender  and  paid  little  heed  to  him,  supposing  he  was 
running  off  a  list  of  his  stock  in  trade,  such  as  pins,  needles,  tape, 
thread  and  other  things  too  numerous  to  mention.  Wanting  none  of 
these,  1  replied  : 

"  Tenemos  bastantc  adentro"  ("  We  have  plenty  in  the  house  "). 

A  roar  of  laughter  near  by,  and  a  familiar  voice  interpreted  the 
man's  question  humorously  enough  :  he  was  only  asking  if  I  'vnnted 
a  chiclii  (wet  nurse). 

The  common  people  of  all  ages  were  always  bringing  me  rcgalitos 
(tokens  of  good  will),  and  these  were  of  every  conceivable  variety. 
A  little  girl  whom  I  had  often  fed  through  the  window,  came  into  the 
house  with  her  rcbozo  drawn  closely  about  her,  saying  she  had  a  rc- 
galito  for  me.  I  supposed  it  to  be  fruit  or  flowers,  and  so  motioned 
to  her  to  put  it  on  the  table  in  the  dining-room. 

In  a  moment  she  was  at  my  side,  saying : 

-'No  qiicdarsc  alii"  ("It  will  not  stay  there"),  and  going  out  I 
found  a  young  chicken  running  around. 

To  pay  fifty  cents    for  every  donkey  load    of  wood,  as  I  had   done, 


68 


FACE    TO    FACE    WEI H   THE   MEXICAA'S. 


THE    WOOD. 


seemed  preposterous;  and,  as  Pancho  knew  everything,  I  asked  him 
to  suggest  some  more  economical  system  of  purchase.  He  recom- 
mended   watching  for  the   carretas  at  five   o'clock    in    the    morning. 

Promptly  at  tlie  hour  indicated, 
I  was  before  the  barred  window, 
when  I  heard  the  awful  screech, 
thump,  bump,  and  rumble  of  the 
himbering  carretas.  About  a 
dozen  in  a  line,  they  advanced 
slowly — their  great  old  wooden 
wheels  wabbling  from  side  to 
side — drawn  by  oxen  with  raw- 
hide trappings;  their  sturdy 
drivers  sandal-footed  and  clothed 
in  cotton  cloth,  with  an  iron- 
tipped  goad  in  hand,  punching 
and  pushing  the  beasts  at  every  step.  Here  was  the  wood — the 
entire  tree,  roots  and  all — ghosts  of  the  forest  hauled  twenty-five 
miles,  rolling  down  the  street  on  an  antiquated  vehicle.  In  response 
to  Pancho's  liand-clap,  the  manager  of  the  caravan  demanded  fifteen 
dollars  a  load,  the  dollars  being  the  only  part  of  the  transaction  that 
belonged  to  our  age.     But  the  wood  was  duly  bought. 

Pancho  had  so  far  held  the  reins  as  to  all  household  purchases, 
but  in  accortlance  with  my  ideas  of  independence  and  careful  manage- 
ment, I  announced  that  I  was  going  to  market.  He  kindly  told  me 
it  was  not  customary  for  ladies  to  go  to  market — "  the  niozo  did  that  " 
— throwing  in  so  many  other  arguments,  also  of  a  traditional  nature, 
that  I  was  somewhat  awed  by  them,  though  not  deterred.  Having 
been  accustomed  to  superintend  personally  all  domestic  duties,  to  be 
bolted  and  barred  up  in  a  house,  without  recreation  and  outdoor 
exercise,  induced  an  insupportable  sense  of  oppression. 

Walking  leisurely  along  the  street,  absorbed  in  thought,  with 
Pancho  near  at  hand  carrying  a  basket,  I  was  attracted  by  the  sound 
of  voices  and  the  tramp  of  feet.     Glancing  backward,  I  .^aw  a  motley 


IN  MOTHER   NOAH'S   SHOES. 


69 


procession  of  idlers  of  the  lower  classes  foUowinL;,  which  increased  at 
every  corner,  reminding;  me  of  good  old  circus  days,  though  without 
the  blare  of  brass  instruments,  the  small  boys  bringing  up  tin-  rear. 
The  very  unusual  occurrence  of  a  lady  going  to  market  had  excited 
their  curiosity. 

The  market  was  a  large,  pavilion-like  building,  occupying  the  cen- 
ter of  a  spacious  plaza.  Little  tables  and  bits  of  straw  matting  were 
distributed  on  all  sides ;  and  upon  these  the  trades-people,  chiefly 
women,  displayed  their  wares,  fruits,  vegetables,  nuts,  and  other  com- 
modities. 


On  seeing  me,  every  vender  began  shouting  the  prices  and  names 
of  articles,  entreating  the  scfiora  cstrangcra  to  buy.  But  the  strange 
medlEy,  together  with  their  earnestness,  took  my  breath  away,  and  I 
could  only  stand  and  watch  the  crowd.  In  the  fantastic  scene  before 
me,  it  would  be  impossible  to  tell  which  of  the  man)-  unaccustomed 
features  took  precedence  of  the  others  in  point  of  novelty. 

Notwithstanding  the  crowd,  there  was  no  disorder,  no  loud  laugh- 
ter or  unseemly  conduct.  The  courteous  meetings  between  acquaint- 
ances, the  quiet  hand-shakings,  the  tender  inquiry  as  to  the  health  of 
each  other,  the  man)'  forms  of  polite  greeting,  were  strangely  at  vari- 
ance with  their  dilapidated  and  tattered  condition,  their  soiled  gar- 
ments, half-faded  blankets,  and  time-stained  sombreros. 


70 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


Whole  families  seemed  to  have  their  abiding  places  in  the  market. 
Babies !  babies !  everywhere  ;  under  the  tables,  on  mats,  hanging  on 
their  mothers'  backs,  cuddled  up  in  heaps  among  the  beets,  turnips, 
and  lettuces,  peeping  over  pumpkins  larger  than  they  ;  rollicking,  cry- 
ing, crowing,  and  laughing,  their  dancing  black  eyes  the  only  clean, 
clear  spots  about  them — with  and  without  clothes — until  my  head  and 
the  air  were  vocalizing  the  old-time  ditty  of  "  One  little,  two  little, 
three  little  Injuns."  But  instead  of  stopping  at  "  ten,"  they  bade 
fair  to  run  up  into  the  thousands. 

Parrots  were  there  by  the  dozen.  On  seeing  me,  some  began 
screaming  and  calling  in  idiomatic  Spanish:  "Look  at  the  seflora 
estrangera!  look!  look!  Seilorita,  tell  me  your  name!"  The  rest 
joined  in  chorus,  and  soon  an  interested  crowd  surrounded  me.  They 
kept  close  at  my  heels,  inspecting  every  article  I  bought,  even  com- 
menting on  my  dress,  the  women  lightly  stroking  it  and  asking  me  a 
thousand  questions  as  to  where  I  came  from,  how  I  liked  their  coun- 
try, and  if  I  was  not  afraid  of  the  Mexicans,  and  invariably  closing  by 
saying,  "  She  is  far  from  her  home.     It  is  sad  for  her  here." 

Here  and  there  the  amusing  spec- 
tacle presented  itself  of  men  in- 
tently engaged  in  the  occupation 
among  us  assigned  to  women,  that 
of  knitting  and  crocheting  baby  hoods 
and  stockings  of  bright  wool,  and  of 
the  funniest  shapes  I  ever  belield  ! 

Vegetables,  fruits,  and  nuts  of 
all  kinds  were  counted  out  care- 
fully in  little  heaps,  and  could  only 
be  bought  in  that  way,  b}'  retail, 
wholesale  rates  being  universally  re- 
jected. I  could  buy  as  many  of  these 
piles  as  I  wanted,  but  each  one  was 
SELLING  THEIR  I iTTLE  STOCKINGS  AND  Hon, ;,.  cQuntcd  scparat cly ,  a u d  paid  for  in 
the  same  way.     I   offered    to  buy   out   the    entire    outfit    of  a  woman 


PULQUE  SHOP. 
SELLING  FLOUR. 


PATTING  TORTILLAS. 
NEW<;-BOVS. 


IN  MOTHER    NOAH'S   SHOES.  73 

who  had  a  bushel  basket  in  reserve,  even  agreeing-  to  pay  iier  for  the 
basket  ;  but  she  only  shook  her  head,  and  wagged  the  forefinger,  say- 
ing, ''No,  sefwra,  no piicdo  "  —  ("  No,  madame,  I  cannot  ").  A  woman 
held  in  her  hand  a  corn  husk,  which  she  waved  continuously  up  and 
down.  On  examination,  I  found  it  was  butter  rolled  up  snugly,  which 
she  assured  me  was  '•/nsoi  sin  sal  " — "  fre^h.  without  fait".  A  new  reve- 
lation, but  in  the  course  of  time  I  learned  to  appreciate  this  primitive 
method,  and  that  in  this  climate  salt  was  a  hindrance  to  its  preserva- 
tion for  any  length  of  time.  At  last  I  became  convinced  of  the  per- 
fect and  complete  fitness  of  things,  and  of  their  self-vindication. 

In  making  the  tortilla,  the  corn  is  first  soaked  for  sex'cral  hours  in 
a  solution  of  lime-water,  which  removes  the  husk.  Then  a  woman 
gets  down  upon  her  knees  and  beats  it  for  hours  on  the  mctatc. 
Small  pieces  of  the  dough  are  worked  between  the  hands,  tossed  and 
patted  and  flattened  out,  until  no  thicker  than  a  knife-blade,  after  which 
they  are  thrown  upon  the  steaming  hot  coinal,  a  flat,  iron  affair  some- 
thing like  a  griddle.  They  are  never  allowed  to  brown,  and  are  with- 
out salt  or  seasoning  of  any  kind  ;  but  after  one  becomes  inducted  into 
their  merits,  they  prove  not  only  palatable,  but  they  make  all  other 
corn-bread  tasteless  in  comparison,  the  slight  flavor  of  the  lime  add- 
ing to  tiie  natural  sweetness  of  the  corn. 

There  were  tainalcs  rolled  up  in  corn  husks,  steaming  hot  and  sold 
in  numbers  to  suit  the  hungry  purchasers.  I  found  that  this  remark- 
able specimen  of  food  was  made,  like  the  tortillas,  from  macerated  corn. 
Small  portions  of  the  dough  were  taken  in  hand  and  wrapped  around 
meat  which  had  been  beaten  to  a  jelly  and  highly  seasoned  with  pei:[)er 
and  other  condiments.  The  whole  was  then  folded  snugly  in  a  corn 
husk  and  thrown  into  a  vessel  of  boiling  lard. 

When  I  witnessed  this  operation,  the  woman  whose  enterprise  it 
was,  began  singing  in  a  cheery  vciice  and  making  crosses  before  the 
fire,  saying,  '"  If  I  don't  sing,  the  tamalcs  will  never  be  cooked." 

In  my  market  experiences  nothing  imparted  a  greater  zest  than 
watching  the  multitude  of  homeless  poor  taking  their  meals  all  around 
the  border  of  the  market.     All  the  compounds  they  ate  were  complete 


74  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

mysteries  ;  but  before  going  home  I  had  secured  many  of  the  various 
receipts  from  the  venders.  I  found  plain  atolc  much  the  same  in  ap- 
pearance as  gruel  of  Indian  meal,  but  much  better  in  taste,  having  the 
slight  flavor  of  the  lime  with  whicln  the  corn  is  soaked,  and  the  advan- 
tage of  being  ground  on  the  nictate,  which  preserves  a  substance  lost 
in  grinding  in  a  mill. 

Tortillas,  likewise,  lose  their  flavor  if  made  of  ordinary  meal. 
Atolc  dc  Icchc  (milk),  by  adding  chocolate  takes  the  name  of 
chainpitri-ado  ;  if  the  bark  of  the  cacao  is  added,  it  becomes  atolc  dc 
cascara ;  if  red  chili, —  chili  atolc.  If,  instead  of  any  of  these  agua 
mid,  sweet  water  of  the  maguey,  is  added,  it  is  called  atolc  dc  agua 
mid ;  if  piloiicillo,  the  native  brown  sugar,  again  the  name  is  modi- 
fied to  atolc  dc  pifiole. 

The  meal  is  strained  through  a  hair-cloth  sieve,  water  being  continu- 
ally poured  on  it,  until  it  becomes  as  thin  as  milk.  It  is  then  boiled 
and  stirred  rapidly  until  well  cooked,  when  it  is  ready  for  the  market. 
As  served  to  the  wretched-looking  objecl.s  who  so  eagerly  consume  it, 
one  felt  no  desire  to  partake,  but  in  the  houses,  there  is  nothing  more 
delicious  and  wholesome  than  atolc  dc  Icc/ic. 

All  the  stews,  fries,  and  great  variety  of  other  edibles  were  patron- 
ized and  dispatched  with  the  greatest  eagerness.  Barbacoa  is  one 
of  the  principal  articles  of  food  known  to  the  Mexican  market — and  is 
good  enough  for  the  table  of  a  king.  The  dexterous  native  takes  a 
well-dressed  mutton,  properly  quartered,  using  also  head  and  bones. 
A  hole  is  made  in  the  ground,  and  a  fire  built  in  it.  Stone  slabs 
are  thrown  in,  and  the  hole  is  covered.  When  thoroughly  hot,  a 
lining  is  made  of  maguey  leaves,  the  meat  put  in,  and  cox'cred  with 
maguey,  the  top  of  the  hole  is  also  covered,  and  the  process  of  cook- 
ing goes  on  all  night. 

The  next  morning  it  is  put  in  a  hot  vessel,  ready  to  eat — a  deli- 
cious, brown,  crisp,  barbecued  mutton. 

As  the  process  is  difficult  and  tedious,  it  is  not  generally  prepared 
in  the  families,  and  even  the  wealthiest  patronize  the  market  for  this 
delicacy,  ready  cooked. 


IN  MOTHER   NOAirs   SHOES.  75 

From  Pnncho's  manner  I  am  sure  lie  felt  as  if  his  vocation  were 
gone,  by  the  way  I  had  overleaped  the  bounds  of  custom  in  finding 
out  things  for  myself.  Nevertheless,  he  managed  now  and  then  to 
give  some  of  the  venders  an  account  of  our  house,  its  location,  and 
my  singular  management.  But  though  looking  mystified,  he  never 
left  me  for  a  moment,  no  matter  how  long  I  talked,  or  asked  explana- 
tions. 

We  went  into  the  stores,  Pancho  keeping  between  me  and  the 
crowd.  The  shopkeepers  were  as  much  surprised  and  as  curious  as 
the  people  in  the  streets,  to  see  me  marketing.  But  when  the  crowd 
of  idlers  closed  up  around  me,  they  were  polite  and  solicitous  to 
know  if  the  "  procession  "  annoyed  me. 

The  arrangement  of  the  merchandise  and  the  method  of  traffick- 
ing elicited  an  involuntary  smile  from  me  at  every  turn  ;  so,  if  the 
merchants,  clerks,  and  the  "  procession  "  found  fun  a:  my  expense,  I 
was  no  less  amused  at  theirs.    - 

Dozens  of  viozos  bought  from  them,  in  my  presence,  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  lard,  which  the  agile  clerk  placed  on  a  bit  of  brown  paper  for 
transportation  ;  three  or  four  lumps  of  sugar,  a  tlaco's  worth  of  salt, 
the  same  of  pepper,  were  all  taken  from  immense  piles  of  these  arti- 
cles, near  at  hand,  wrapped  and  ready  for  the  purchaser. 

Dainty  china  tea-cups  hung  closely  together  by  their  handles  on 
the  edge  of  every  shelf,  and  up  and  down  the  walls  in  unbroken  lines; 
but  not  a  saucer  was  in  sight,  nor  could  a  dish  be  had  at  any  price. 

Anticipating  that  I  would  take  a  tlaco,  medio,  and  real's  worth, 
like  the  iiiocos,  the  clerk  took  in  his  nimble  fingers  a  few  of  the  little 
packages;  but  my  extraordinary  announcement  despoiled  him  of  his 
ordinary  sales. 

Every  eye  was  upon  me  when  I  had  the  tcmcrit}-  to  ask  for 
twenty  pnundsof  sugar,  ten  pounds  of  coffee,  and  a  gallon  of  vinegar. 
Sugar  and  coffee  were  abundant,  but  the  vinegar  was  in  bottles.  He 
handed  me  one  with  a  flourish,  saying,  "  Vinagrc  dc  Francia.  We 
have  no  other."  I  began  to  feel  that  far-away  France  had  become 
my  ally,  having,  like  me,  made  an  invasion  on  the  "  costumbres  ;  "   the 


/D  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    'THh    MEXICANS.  ■>■ 

only  difference  being,  that  the  vinegar  bottles  were  jolted  on  the 
backs  of  meek  burros,  or  in  carts,  a  thousand  miles,  and  I  had  arrived, 
safe  and  sound,  by  diligence. 

I  asked:  "Have  you  ham?" — "  A'l?  hay"  (pronounced  eye), 
("  There  is  none  "). 

"  Pickles  ?  "— "  No  kay." 

"  Powdered  sugar  ?  '' — "  No  kay." 

"  Crackers?" — "  Tainpoco"  ("  Neitlier"). 

"  Salt  ?  " — "  Si  hay  "  ("  Yes,  there  is  some  "'). 

"  Coffee  ?"—"  5/ //.?/. " 

"  Frijoles  ?  "  (beans) — "  Tauibicn  "  ("  Also  "). 

"  Candles  ?  " — "  Si  hay." 

■'Potatoes?" — "  Ya  no  hay,  sr  acal>a>-oii"  ("The)'  are  finished 
— all  gone  "). 

Going  to  market,  a  matter-of-fact  affair  in  the  United  States, 
resolved  itself  into  a  novel  adventure. 

The  heterogeneous  assemblage  of  goods,  and  the  natural  and  arti- 
ficial products  of  the  country,  astonished  me  equally  with  the  strange 
venders.  There  was  so  much  that  was  at  once  humorous,  pitiable, 
and  grotesque,  all  of  which  was  heightened  when  I  reached  home, 
and  observed  quite  a  number  of  the  "  procession  "  in  the  rear.  Once 
over  the  threshold,  Pancho  slammed  the  door  in  their  faces,  saying, 
"  Son  pobrcs  todos,  y  sin  vcrguoizas  !  "  ("  They  are  all  poor  and  \\ith- 
out  shame  "). 

Every  day  the  strange  enigma  unfolded  itself  before  me,  with  ac- 
crued interest.  My  lot  had  been  cast  among  these  people,  when  in 
total  ignorance  of  their  habits  and  customs.  My  aim  and  purpose, 
above  all  things,  was  to  establish  a  home  among  them  on  the  basis  of 
the  one  left  behind.  The  sequel  will  show  how  well  I  succeeded. 
But  while  endeavoring  to  cope  with  the  servants,  and  comprehend 
their  peculiarities,  I  found  nothing  more  amusing. 

Our  Mexican  friends  made  daily  visits  to  the  house,  and  were 
always  ready  to  enjoy  with  me  the  latest  humorous  episode  furnished 
by  the  servants.      I  was  often   assured  b}'  these  friends  that   the  oddi- 


IN  MOTHER   KOAirs   SHOES.  77 

ties  of  their  mozos  and  other  servants  had  not  occurred  to  tliem,  as  so 
striking,  until  my  experiences,  togjtlier  with  ni)-  enjoyment,  had  pre- 
sented them  in  a  new  hght  ;  and  ihat  for  them  I  had  held  the  mirror 
up  to  nature.  This  was  only  possible  by  keeping  up  an  establishment, 
and  making  one's  self  part  and  parcel  of  the  incidents  as  they  occurred. 
From  this  and  the  two  succeeding  chapters,  it  may  seem  that  I  was 
constantly  involved  in  annoyances  and  disagreements  with  the  ser- 
vants ;  but  such  was  not  the  case.  Inconveniences  more  than  can 
be  named,  were  mine  in  the  Sisyphean  task  of  establishing  an  Ameri- 
can home  in  Mexico,  but  if  the  reader  can  picture  a  perpetual  treat 
in  noting  the  strict  adherence  of  the  mosos  to  inbred  characteristics, 
surely  that  privilege  was  mine. 

As  time  goes  on,  and  I  no  longer  come  in  actual  daily  contact  with 
them,  in  gay  retrospect  I  see  moving  about  me  the  phantom  parade 
of  blue-rebozoed  women  and  white-garbed  mozos. 

Variety  of  scene  and  character  was  never  wanting.  If  the  interior 
workings  of  the  household  failed  to  interest  me,  I  had  only  to  turn 
and  gaze  through  my  barred  window  upon  the  curious  street  scenes. 

On  Saturdays,  beggars  were  always  out  in  full  force,  and  on  these 
days  my  time  was  mainly  occupied  in  conversing  with  them,  thereby 
obtaining  many  threads  in  the  weft  I  was  hoping  to  weave.  A  very 
old  man,  stooped  and  bent  with  age,  applied  to  me  for  alms,  when  I 
asked  his  age.  "  Eleven  years,"  he  replied.  "  Oh  !  "  I  said,  "  that  is 
a  mistake.  Why  do  you  think  you  are  only  eleven  ? " — "Because  I 
was  a  little  boy  when  the  Americans  came."  From  that  date — as  I 
understood  it — life  was  over  to  him  and  mere  existence  remained  ; 
added  years  had  accumulated,  but  he  was  still  a  boy.  I  soon  found 
that  this  class  dated  every  notable  event  from  either  the  cholera,  the 
advent  of  the  French,  or  the  coming  of  the  Americans. 

An  American  negro  was  a  welcome  sight  on  one  of  these  occa- 
sions, and  his,  good  old-time  familiar  darky  dialect,  together  with  the 
sight  of  his  kinky  head,  was  refreshing.  He  stopped  in  front  of  my 
window,  saying:  "  Well,  now,  mis',  what  is  you  a  doin'  heah  ?  'Mar- 
ican  white  ladies  lieber  likes  dis  country  ;  dey  isn't  yo'  kin  o'  people." 


78  FACE    TO   FACE    IV/'J7I    J  HE   MEXICANS. 

He  gave  me  his  history  in  exaggerated  negro  style:  how  he  had  been 
in  the  war  with  his  young  master;  had  been  taken  prisoner,  made  to 
serve  as  cooi<  on  a  Yankee  gun-boat,  had  escaped,  married  a  Mexican  ; 
and,  after  so  many  vicissitudes,  had  not  forgotten  his  early  training 
in  his  manner  of  addressing  me. 

Foremost  among  the  objects  that  claimed  my  sympathy  were 
the  poor,  over-laden,  beaten  donkeys ;  they  seemed  ubiquitous,  and 
the  picture   my  window  framed  never  lacked  a  meek-eyed  burro,  until 

I  could  not  separate 
them  from  their  sur- 
roundings. They  were 
typical    figures,    and 


^' THERE    GOES  THE    MEXICAN    RAILROAD." 


at  last  I  came  to  regard  any  scene  from  which  they  were  absent  as 
incomplete. 

They  passed  in  a  never-ending  procession,  bearing  every  imagin- 
able commodity.  I  soon  noticed  that  if  the  leader  or  "  bell-wether  " 
of  the  gang  stopped,  the  rest  did  the  same.  If  goaded  to  despera- 
tion by  the  merciless  driver,  the  only  resistance  they  offered  was  to 
quietly  but  doggedly  lie  down. 

Often  dozens  of  them  passed,  with  green  corn  on  the  stalks,  sus- 
pended gracefully  about  them,  and  in  such  quantities  that  nothing 
was  visible  but  the  donkeys'  heads  and  cars,  the  corn  spread  out  in 
fan-shape,  reminding  me  of  a  lady's  train,  or  a  peacock  in  full  plum- 
age.    The  burros   moved   evenly  and   silently  along,  without  an   un- 


IN  MOTHER  NOAH'S   SHOES. 


79 


dulation    to   disturb  the  beauty  and    symmetry  of  the  corn-stalk  pro- 
cession. 

Pancho's  knowledge  of  burros  was  as  profound  as  of  other  subjects. 
As  fifty  of  them  were  passing  one  morning,  he  happened  to  see  me 
gazing  on  the  strange  scene,  when  the  oracle  broke  silence  by  saying: 
"■Alii  va  cl  ferro-carril  Mcxicano"  ("There  goes  the  Mexican  rail- 
road"), adding  parenthetically,  ^'  Tambicn  se  Hainan  liccnciados" 
("  They  are  also  called  lawyers  ") ;  "  ticncn  cabczas  iniiy  ditras  "  ("  they 
have  very  hard  heads  "). 

At  last  I  was  convinced  that  burros  are  possessed  of  an  uncom- 
mon amount  of  good  sense  as  well  as  much  patience  and  meekness. 
Their  shrewdness  was  intensely 
amusing  to  me  when  I  saw  how 
keenly  they  watched  the  arridro — 
driver — unburden  one  of  their  covi- 
pancros,  and  how  quickly  they 
jumped  into  the  place  to  be  also  re- 
lieved of  their  terrible  loads. 

A  man  with  a  crate  of  eggs 
hanging  from  his  head  went  trot- 
ting b)',  advertising  his  business 
by  screaming,  "  Hjicvos  !  huevos  !  " 
in  deafening  tones.  Pancho,  at  his 
post  of  duty  in  the  zaguan,  called  the  - 
vender  with  the  long  tangled  hair 
and  swarthy  skin.  After  peeping 
cautiously  around,  he  entered,  when 
I  went  at  once  to  make  the  bargain  for  myself,  and  to  turn  over 
another  leaf  in  the  book  of  my  experiences.  I  wanted  to  buy  two 
dozen,  and  handing  him  fifty  cents,  told  Pancho  to  count  the  eggs. 
The  man  turned  the  half-dollar  over  and  over — looking  at  me  and 
then  at  the  half-dollar  ;  and  at  last  handed  the  money  back  to  me, 
saying:  "Noscvcudcnasi"  ("They  are  not  sold  in  this  way") — '•  sola- 
inente  por  rcales"  ("only  by  reals").      1  said  :  "You  sell  si.x  for  a  real, 


Httez'os!  hucTJOs  / 


8o 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


(twelve  and  one-half  cents),  it  is  the  same  at  twenty-five  cents  a 
dozen."  The  words  had  hardly  passed  my  lips,  when  he  turned  and 
looked  me  directl}'  in  the  eye,  with  an  expression  which  meant. 
"  Well,  now,  look  here,  madame,  you'll  not  take  advantage  of  me  in 
that  way ;  I  know  the  customary  manner  of  doing  business  in  this 
country,  and  there  will  be  no  change  in  selling  eggs."  Pancho  put  in 
a  plea  for  him,  adding  :  "  Es  costjiinbre  del  pais  "  ('■  It  is  the  custom  of 
the  country  "),  which  reconciled  me. 

The  vender   began   counting   slowly    the   fingers  of   his  right   hand 
with  his  left — "  huo,  dos,  tres,  ciiatro,  cinco," — then  holding  up  the  in- 
dex finger  of  the  left  hand — scis — and  extending  the 
six  fingers,  palms  to  the  front,  waved  them  back  and 
forth    before  his  determined    face,  as  in  low  guttural 
-^  fiJl]    tones  that  made  me  shiver,  he  said  :   ''  JVo,  scn-o-ri-la. 


SIX   FOR    A    REAL. 


so-'a-mcn-te  a  sc-is  por  un  rc-al !  "  ("  I  will  only  sell 
them  at  six  for  a  real  "),  by  dozens  — never !  Lifting 
his  hat  politely,  he  took  his  departure  saying,  "Basta 
liicgo  !  "  ("  I'll  come  again  ").  But  I  thought  he  need 
not  trouble  himself. 
Seeing  everything  and  everybody  so  conservative,  running  in  the 
groove  of  centuries,  reminded  me  that  I  was  losing  sight  of  mj'  own 
"  costumbres."  The  little  fire-place  in  which  the  cooking  had  been 
done  became  distasteful,  and  I  longed  for  a  cooking-stove.  A  Mex- 
ican gentleman  whom  I  did  not  know,  on  hearing  of  my  desire,  kindly 
offered  to  lend  us  one  that  he  had  bought  about  twenty  years  before, 
but  had  been  unable  to  have  it  used  to  any  extent,  owing  to  the  pre- 
judices of  the  servants. 

With  the  utmost  delight,  I  saw  the  cargador  (porter)  enter  the  big 
door  with  this  time-worn  rickety  desire  of  ni)-  heart.  But  when  lie 
slipped  it  from  liis  head,  the  rattle  of  its  dilapidated  parts  made  me 
quake  with  an.xiety. 

Both  Pancho  and  the  cargador  exclaimed  in  one  voice, 
"  Caraiidta  !  "  ("  Goodness  gracious  alive  !  "),  gazing  with  puzzled 
expressions  on  the  wreck. 


IN  MOTHER   NOAH'S   SHOES. 


8i 


gador. 

"  Pos  coino 

)io  ! 

disgusted 

Panclio. 

The  cargador  was  the    first  to  break  the  silence  that  followed  this 
ebullition  of  astonishment. 

"  Que  atroz  !  "  ("  How  atrocious  !  ")  he  exclaimed. 

"  Que  barbaridad !  "  ("  How  barbarous  !  ")  echoed  Pancho. 

"  Por  SHpucsto  que  si.'  "  ("  Well,  I  should  say  so  I  "),  quoth  the  car- 


("  Well,  I'd  like  to  know  why  it  isn't  !  "),  said  the 


"  She  will  never  get  a  cook  to  use  it,  never!"  The  cook  came 
into  the  patio  to  inspect  the  stove,  and  she  too  spoke  in  a  low  voice 
to  the  men,  but  folding  her  arms  and  emphatically  raising  her  tone 
on  the  last  word  "  el  Iiigado"  which  explained  itself  later. 

As  there  was  not  a  flue  in  the  building,  the  stove  was  placed  in 
the  little  fire-place.  It  had  only 
two  feet,  which  stood  diagonally 
opposite  each  other,  causing  the 
stove  to  nod  and  bend  in  a  grim, 
diabolic  way.  Being  duly  settled 
on  its  own  responsibility  by  the 
aid  of  bricks,  Pancho  opened  one 
of  the  doors,  when  instantly  it 
lay  full  length  on  the  floor.  He 
walked  away,  looking  back  in 
disgust  on  the  wreck.  I  ven- 
tured to  touch  the  door  on  the 
opposite  side,  when,  as  if  by 
magic,  it,  also,  took  a  position  on 
the  floor  ^.9,  vis-ei-vis  ;  the  servants  exclaiming:  "  Muj  mal  lieclw  !" 
("  A  very  bad  make,  or  job  !  "),  "  ian  vicjo  !  "  ("  so  very  old  1  " ) 

"  Pos  como  no  !  "  (•'  Well,  I  should  say  so  I  ")  they  all  chimed  in, 
the  cook  glancing  at  me  suspiciously,  and  folding  her  arms  as  she 
added  :    •'  No,  seflora,  I  cannot  use  the  estufa." 

"  Why  not  ?  "   I  asked. 

"  Porqtie  vie  liace  dafio  en  el  liigado." 
6 


IT   WILL    GIVE    ME    DISEASE    OF  THE    LIVER. 


82  FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

"  Because  it  will  give  me  disease  of  the  liver  ;  Mexican  servants 
dislike  stoves,  and  if  you  keep  this  one,  no  cook  will  stay  here,"  she 
replied. 

A  blacksmith  was  called  to  renovate  the  treasure,  but  he  also 
worked  on  the  inanana  system,  taking  weeks  to  do  his  best,  and  still 
leaving  the  stove  dilapidated.  The  cook  took  her  departure,  and  on 
Pancho's  solicitation  dozens  came,  but  a  glance  at  the  stove  was 
enough. 

Politeness  ruled  their  lives,  and  native  courtesy  was  stronger  than 
love  of  truth.  Without  saying  a  word  about  the  stove,  they  would 
say,  "  I  would  like  to  work  for  you — you  are  niuy  amablc — nmy  simpdtica 
— amiable  and  agreeable  ;  but," — hervoice running  up  to  a  piping  treble 
— she  would  add,  "  tcngo  mi  familia  " — I  have  ni}'  family — or,  "  I  am 
now  occupied,"  meaning  employed,  by  Don  or  Dona  Such-a-one. 

Pancho  always  looked  on  with  keen  interest  during  such  conversa- 
tions, his  face  saying,  without  a  word :  "  I  told  you  so ;  these  cooks 
will  never  adopt  your  costiunbrcs  Ainericanos." 

The  stove  was  always  falling,  or  some  part  dropping  off. 

At  last  one  day  I  went  in  and  saw  it  careened  to  one  side — both 
feet  off — and  both  doors  down,  suggesting  that  some  canny  hand  had 
dismantled  it.  The  wreck  presented  a  picture  painfully  realistic  ;  but 
before  I  time  to  inquire  as  to  the  perpetrator,  the  stove  addressed 
me : 

"  I  was  once  an  American  citizen,  bred  and  born.  My  pedigree  is 
equal  to  any  of  your  boasted  latter-day  ancestry.  A  residence  of 
twenty  years  in  Mexico  has  changed  my  habitudes  and  customs. 
You  need  not  try  to  mend  and  fix  mc  up — to  erect  your  American 
household  gods  on  my  inanimate  form.  I  am  a  naturalized  Mexican, 
with  all  that  is  implied.  I  have  had  my  freedom  the  greater  portion 
of  the  time  since  they  bought  me  from  a  broken-down  gringo ;  for 
neither  the  sefiora  nor  the  cooks  would  use  me.  I'll  do  you  no  good  ; 
if  you  mend  and  fix  me  up  in  one  place,  I'll  break  down  in  another. 
Content  yourself  with  our  brascros  (ranges)  and  pottery.  Accept  our 
usages,  and  you  will  be  happy  in  our  country. 


IN  MOTHER   NOAH'S   SHOES.  83 

"  You  need  not  wonder  at  my  rust-eaten  and  battered  condition. 
I  have  lain  undisturbed  in  the  corral  for  nearly  twenty  years.  During 
the  rainy  season,  when  the  big  drops  pelted  me  unmercifully,  snakes, 
lizards,  centipedes,  and  tarantulas  came  habitually  to  take  refuge  inside 
my  iron  doors.  So  many  different  natures  coming  in  close  contact, 
there  were  frequently  serious  collisions.  These  warlike  engagements 
have  crippled  and  maimed  me,  more  than  the  weather,  or  any  service 
I  have  rendered.  You  will  not  find  a  cook  who  will  even  know  how 
to  make  me  hot  for  your  use.  Take  me  back  to  the  corral !  Take 
me  back ! " 


CHAPTER  III. 

"  NO    ES    COSTUMBRE."  * 

YffW^''^  were  overshadowed  by  the  dome  of 
a  magnificent  cathedral,  the  exterior 
of  which  was  embelHshed  with  Ufe- 
sized  statues  of  saints.  The  interior 
presented  a  costly  display  of  tinted 
walls,  jeweled  and  bedecked  images, 
and  gilded  altars.  Its  mammoth 
tower  had  loomed  grimly  under  the  suns  and  stars  of  a  hundred 
years,  and  the  solidity  of  its  perfect  masonry  has  so  far  defied  the  en- 
croachments of  time. 

Tiie  city  of  our  adoption  boasted  an  Alameda,  where  the  air  was 
redolent  of  the  odor  of  the  rose  and  violet,  and  made  musical  with  the 
tinkling  of  fountains;  and  where  could  be  seen  the  "beauty  and 
chivalry"  of  a  civilization  three  centuries  old,  taking  the  evening 
air. 

Plazas  beautified  with  flowers,  shrubs,  and  trees,  upon  which  neither 
money  nor  pains  had  been  spared,  lent  a  further  charm.  Stores  were 
at  hand  wherein  could  be  purchased  fabrics  of  costly  texture,  as  well 
as  rare  jewels — in  fact,  a  fair  share  of  the  elegant  superfluities  of  life ; 
and  yet  in  the  midst  of  so  much  civilization,  so  much  art,  so  much 
luxury  of  a  certain  kind,  so  much  wealth,  I  found  to  my  dismay,  upon 
investigation,  that  I  was  at  least  fifty  miles  from  an  available  broom  ! 
Imagine  the  dilemma,  you  famously  neat  housekeepers  of  the 
United  States  !  A  house  with  floors  of  pounded  dirt,  tile,  brick,  and 
cement,  and  no  broom  to  be  had  for  money,  though,  I  am  pleased  to 

*  The  higher  classes  use  the   term   "  Eso  no  se    acostumbra  ;  "    while  the  idiom   of  the 
common  people  abbreviates  the  expression  into  "No  es  costiimbre." 


"NO  Es  COST u mere: 


85 


add,  one  was  finally  obtained  for  love.  My  generous  little  Mexican 
neighbor  and  friend,  Poinposita,  taking  pity  on  my  despair,  gave  me 
one — which  enabled  me  to  return  the  half-worn  borrowed  broom  of 
another  friend. 

Owing  to  the  exorbitant  demands  of  the  custom-house,  such 
humble  though  necessar)'  articles  were  not  then  imported  ;  and  the 
untutored  sons  of  La  Republica  manufactured  them  on  haciendas, 
from  materials  cruile  beyond  imagination. 

Once  or  twice  a  year  long  strings  of  burros  may  be  seen,  wending 
their  way  solemnly  through  the  streets;  girt  about  with  a  burden  of 
the  most  wonderful  brooms. 

These  brooms  were  of  two  varieties  ;  one  had  handles  *  as  knotty 
and  unwieldy  as  the  thorny  incsqiiitc^  while  the  other  was  still  more 
primitive  in  design,  and  looked  like  old  field  Virginia  sedge  grass  tied 
up  in  bundles.  They  were  retailed  by  men  who  carried  them  through 
the  streets  on  their  backs. 

For  the  rude  character  of  their  brooms,  however,  the  manufacturers 
are  not  to  blame,  but  the  sterility  of  the  country,  and  the  failure  of  na- 
ture to  provide  suitable  vegetable  growths. 

Every  housekeeper  takes  advantage  of 
the  advent  of  the  escobcro  (broom-maker), 
to  lay  in  a  stock  of  brooms  sufficient  to 
last  until  his  next  visit.  It  was  two  months 
before  an  opportunity  of  buying  a  broom, 
even  from  a  "  wandering  Bavarian,"  was 
afforded  me,  and  during  that  time  I  came 
to  regard  Dona  Pomposita's  gift  as  the 
apple  of  my  eye. 

•'  Mcr-ca-ran  las  cs-co-bas  !  "  One  morn- 
ing a  new  sound  assailed  my  ears,  as  it 
came    up    the  street,  gathering  force  and  " "    ~     ^-- 

volume  the  nearer  it  approached.     I  heard  ""■"•'■  ™"  """  *  '"'°°"'" 

it  over  and  over  without  divining  its  meaning.      But  at  last  a  man  en- 


*  See  picture  of  '"  Household  gods,''  for  the  brooms  with  handles. 


86  FACE    TO   FACE    IPITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

tered  our  portal  and  in  a  tone  that  made  my  hair  stand  on  end  and 
with  a  vim  that  almost  shook  the  house,  he  screamed — ''Es-co-bas,  Seii- 
c-ra  !  '  — drawling  each  word  out  as  long  as  a  broom-handle,  then 
rolling  it  into  a  low  hum,  which  finally  died  into  a  whispered — ''  Will 
you  buy  some  brooms?"  Had  he  known  my  disposition  and  special 
fondness  for  broom-handles — without  reference  to  my  household 
need — he  would  have  brought  them  to  me  directly,  dispensing  with 
his  ear-splitting  medley — to  a  woman  for  three  months  without  a 
broom  ! 

On  ascertaining  that  the  cscobcro  would  not  visit  the  city  again 
for  some  time.  1  bought  his  entire  stock,  and  laid  them  up  with  pru- 
dent foresight,  against  the  possibility  of  another  broom  famine. 

With  a  genuine  American  spirit,  I  concluded  to  have  a  general 
house-cleaning,  and,  equipped  with  these  wonderful  brooms,  with 
Pancho's  assistance  the  work  began.  The  first  place  demanding  at- 
tention was  the  immense  parlor,  with  its  floor  of  solid  cement. 
Pancho  began  to  sweep,  but  the  more  he  swept,  the  worse  it  looked — 
ringed,  streaked,  and  striped  with  dust.  I  thought  he  was  not  using 
his  best  efforts,  so  with  a  will,  I  took  the  broom  and  made  several 
vigorous  strokes,  but  to  my  amazement,  it  looked  worse  than  ever. 
In  my  despair  a  friend  came  in,  who  comprehended  the  situation  at  a 
glance,  and  explained  that  floors  of  that  kind  could  not  be  cleaned 
with  a  broom  ;  that  aiiioli — the  root  of  the  ixtli  (easily) — soap-root — 
applied  with  a  wet  cloth,  was  the  medium  of  renovation. 

The  amoli  was  first  macerated  and  soaked  for  some  time  in  water. 
A  portion  of  the  liquid  was  taken  in  one  vessel  and  clear  water  in  an- 
otlier.  The  cleansing  was  done  in  small  squares,  the  rubbing  all  in 
one  direction.  The  effect  was  magical — my  dingy  floor  being  restored 
to  its  original  rich  Indian  red. 

Now  and  then,  while  on  his  knees,  rubbing  away  with  might  and 
main,  Pancho  would  throw  his  eyes  up  at  mc  with  a  peculiar  expres- 
sion of  despair,  while  he  muttered  in  undertone  :  "  No  cs  costuiubre  dc 
los  mozos  lavar  los  suiios  "  ("  It  is  not  customary  for  mozos  to  wash 
floors  "). 


"NO  ES  COSTUMBKE."  8/ 

Insatiable  curiosity  is  the  birthright  of  the  poor  of  Mexico,  and  on 
this  remarkable  day  they  gathered  about  the  windows  until  not  an- 
other one  could  find  room — talking  to  Pancho,  who  looked  as  if  already 
under  sentence  for  an  infraction  of  the  criminal  code.  They  made 
strange  motidns  with  their  fingers,  exclaiming  at  the  same  time:  "  Es 
7ina  vcrgucjiza  cl  viozo  haccr  talcs  cosas  !  "  (  "  It  is  a  shame  for  a  mozo 
to  do  such  things!  ")  Others  replied  by  saying  :  "£s  ?in  insiilto  !  "  ("  It 
is  an  insult  !  "),  while  others  took  up  the  argument  of  the  case  by  say- 
ing: "  Por  jw/z/ci-A'  <7«r  j/"  ("  Why,  of  course  it  is").  But  all  this  did 
not  cause  Pancho  to  give  me  a  rude  look  or  an  impertinent  word. 

The  floor  now  looked  red  and  shiny,  the  windows  were  clear  and 
glistening,  and  the  six  hair-cloth  chairs  stood  grimly  along  the  wall, 
in  deference  to  the  custom.  My  little  friend  took  her  departure,  and 
Pancho  moved  lamely  about,  as  if  stiffened  by  his  arduous  labor. 

In  all  my  housekeeping  experiences  nothing  ever  occurred  which 
for  novelty  was  comparable  to  the  events  of  that  morning.  I  felt 
sure  that  when  Mother  Noah  descended  from  Mount  Ararat,  and 
assumed  the  responsibilities  of  housekeeping — or  more  properly  tent- 
keeping — on  the  damp  plain,  however  embarrassing  the  limitation  of 
her  equipments  may  have  been,  she  was  at  least  spared  the  provoca- 
tion of  a  scornful  and  wondering  audience,  greeting  her  efforts  on 
every  side  with  that  now  unendurable  remark,  "No  cs  costiinibrcy 

I  afterward  learned  the  cause  of  the  commotion,  when  it  transpired 
that  such  services  as  floor-cleaning  are  performed,  not  by  the  mozo, 
but  by  a  servant  hired  for  the  occasion,  outside  the  household. 

In  a  few  moments  my  lavandcra — washerwoman — entered,  accom- 
panied by  her  two  pretty,  shy  little  girls.  Having  complimented  the 
fresh  appearance  of  the  house, — Pancho  now  and  then  explaining 
what  he  had  done, — she  informed  me  that  the  following  day  would  be 
the  dia  dc  santo — saint's  day — of  one  of  her  bright-eyed  chiquitas,  and 
"hay  costumbrc"  ("  there  is  a  custom")  of  receiving  tokens  on  these 
days  from  interested  friends.  Acting  upon  this  hint,  I  went  to  my 
bedroom,  followed  by  Juana  and  the  niiias,  who  displayed  great  sur- 
prise at   every  step.     My  red   and  yellow  covered   beds  they  tapped 


88  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    'THE    MEXICANS. 

and  talked  to  as  if  they  had  been  animate  things,  calhng  them, 
"  camas  bonitas,  coloradas  y  amarillas  !  "  ("  pretty  beds,  red  and  }'el- 
low  !  ") 

I  turned  the  bright  blankets  over,  that  they  might  see  the  springs, 
and  the  sight  utterly  overcame  them.  Their  astonishment  at  the 
revelation  of  such  mysterious  and  luxurious  appendages  made  them 
regard  me  with  mingled  awe,  astonishment,  and  suspicion.  The 
mother  struck  the  springs  with  her  fists,  and  as  the  sound  rang  out 
and  vibrated,  the  children  retreated  hastil)',  shaking  with  alarm. 

Wishing  to  conform  to  the  customs,  and  remembering  Juana's 
hint,  I  unlocked  my  "  Saratoga."  The  cliiquitas  stood  aside,  fearing, 
I  suppose,  that  from  the  trunk  some  frightful  apparition  might  spring 
forth.  When  the  lid  went  back  they  exclaimed  :  "  Valgamc  Dios  !  " 
("  Help  me,  God  "),  and  crossed  themselves  hastily,  as  if  to  be  pre- 
pared for  the  worst.  I  invited  them  to  come  near,  at  the  same  time 
opening  a  compartment  filled  with  bright  flowers  and  ribbons. 

This  was  a  magnet  they  could  not  resist,  and  overcoming  their 
fears,  they  came  and  stood  close  to  the  trunk,  now  and  then  touching 
the  pretty  things  I  exhibited  to  their  wondering  eyes.  I  gave  each 
of  them  a  gay  ribbon,  and  while  they  were  talking  delightedly  and 
caressing  the  pretty  trifles,  by  some  mischance  the  fastening  of  the 
upper  tray  lost  its  hold.  Down  it  came  with  a  crash — being  still 
heavily  packed — and  away  went  the  children,  screaming  and  crying, 
one  taking  one  direction,  the  other  another. 

We  went  in  pursuit  of  them,  and  when  found,  one  was  crouching 
down  in  the  court-yard  under  a  rose-bush,  while  the  other  stood  in  ter- 
ror behind  the  heavy  parlor  door.  Both  were  shaking,  their  teeth  chat- 
tering, while  they  muttered  something  about  "  cl  diablo  !  d  diablo  !  " 
.  By  this  time  I  understood  the  line  which  people  of  this  class  in 
Mexico  unflinchingly  draw  between  their  own  humble  station  and 
mine,  yet  I  felt  moved  to  treat  the  frightened  children  with  the 
same  hospitality  which  in  my  own  land  would  have  proved  soothing 
under  similar  circumstances.  Acting  upon  this  inspiration,  I  went 
quickly  and  brought  a  basin  of  water  to  wash  their  tear-stained  faces. 


'NO   ES   C0STU3/BJiE." 


89 


NO   ES  COSTUMBRE. 


To  my  utter  surprise,  they  exclaimed   in  tlie  same  breath  :  "  A'o  lo  pcr- 
inito  /  "  ("  We  cannot  permit  it  !  ") 
"  A^o  cs  costuinbrc." 

The  motlier  approached  me 
with  an  expression  of  deep  con- 
cern and  seriousness  in  her  eyes, 
and  with  her  forefinger  raised  in 
gentle  admonition.  Looking  me 
earnestly  in  the  face,  she  began 
moving  her  finger  slowly  from  side 
to  side  directly  before  my  eyes, 
saying  :  "  Oiga,  Scfiorita,  scpa  V. 
que  en  esta  ticrra,  cnando  iiosotros 
los  Mexieanos "  (referring  of 
course  to  her  own  class)  "  teiie- 
mos  el  catarro"  (emiphasizing  the 
last  word  on  G  sharp),  "  nunca  iws 
lavainos  las  cams  "  ("  Listen  to  me,  my  good  lady,  in  this  country, 
when  we  have  the  catarrh  (meaning  a  bad  cold),  we  never  put  water 
on  our  faces  "). 

"Why  not?"  I  asked. 

"  Porque  no  estanws  acostumbradas,  y  por  cl  clinia,  sale  mas  mala  la 
eiifermedad"  ("  Because  we  are  not  accustomed  to  it,  and  on  account 
of  the  climate,  the  sickness  is  made  worse  "). 

Thus  ended  the  dialogue.  But  the  children  did  not  hold  me  re- 
sponsible for  their  fright,  and  bade  me  a  kindly  adios,  promising  to 
return  again,  a  promise  fulfilled  every  week,  but  on  no  account  would 
they  ever  venture  near  that  trunk  again. 

Pancho  was  determined  to  give  to  us  and  our  belongings,  as  far  as 
possible,  the  exterior  appearance  of  the  "  eostunibres."  On  entering 
my  room  after  a  little  absence,  one  day,  I  found  him  straining  every 
nerve  and  panting  for  breath.  He  had  made  a  low  bench,  and  was 
trying  to  place  my  Saratoga  on  it,  but  his  strength  was  not  equal  to 
the  task.     The  explanation  came  voluntarily  that,  on  account  of  the 


90  FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

aniuialitos,  it  was  customary  for  families  to  keep  trunks  on  benches 
or  tables.  I  soon  found  the  animalitos  had  reference  to  the  various 
bugs  and  scorpions  which  infest  the  houses,  and  all  trunks  were 
really  kept  as  Pancho  said. 

As  time  passed,  Pancho  constituted  himself  our  instructor  and 
guide  in  every  matter  possible,  including  both  diet  and  health.  He 
warned  us  against  the  evil  effects  of  walking  out  in  the  sun  after  ten 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  especially  enjoined  upon  us  not  to  drink 
water  or  wash  our  faces  on  returning,  as  catarrh  and  headache  would 
be  sure  to  follow.  Supposing  this  only  the  superstition  of  an  igno- 
rant servant,  I  took  a  special  delight  in  taking  just  such  walks,  and 
violating  these  rules,  but  every  time  I  paid  the  forfeit  in  a  cold  and 
headache,  according  to  prediction.  I  was  now  satisfied  that  Pancho 
was  not  only  wise  as  a  serpent  and  harmless  as  a  dove,  blest  with  a 
keen  eye  of  discrimination,  but  also  a  first-class  health  officer,  and  in 
the  movement  of  his  forefinger  lay  tomes  of  reason  and  good  sense. 
But  I  had  soon  to  discover  that  he  would  have  no  infringement  of  his 
privileges ;  and,  come  what  would,  he  was  determined  to  have  his 
pilon  in  the  market. 

The  servants  who  came  and  went  often  warned  me  that  under  no 
consideration  must  I  go  to  market,  but  this  was  one  of  my  home  cus- 
toms, and  I  could  see  no  reason  for  its  discontinuance.  The  system 
of  giving  the  pilot  (fee)  to  the  servants,  by  merchants  and  market- 
people,  as  I  already  knew,  would  be  a  stumbling-block  in  my  wa\-. 
I  had  discussed  in  Pancho's  presence  my  determination  to  go  regular- 
ly, when  I  fancied  I  saw  a  strange  light  come  into  his  eyes,  which 
soon  explained  itself.  He  came  humbly  before  me,  in  a  short  time, 
hat  in  hand,  his  face  bearing  the  sorrowful,  woe-begone  look  of  one 
in  the  depths  of  an  overwhelming  calamity,  saying,  that  a  cart  had 
run  over  his  grandmother,  and  he  would  have  to  leave.  He  had  been 
so  kind  and  considerate  in  every  way — never  tiring  of  any  task  he 
had  to  perform — and  so  faithful,  that  I  would  prove  my  sympathy 
and  good  will  to  him  by  an  e.xtra  sum — outside  his  wages — which 
might  be  a  blessing,  and  aid   in  restoring  his  aged    grandmother.     He 


"  jyo  es  costumbre:-  93 

walked  off,  as  if  distressed  beyond  measure,  at  the  same  time  assuring 
me  that  he  would  send  his  comadrita  (Httle  godmother  of  his  child- 
ren) and  her  husband,  who  would  serve  me  well. 

They  came,  but  it  was  unfortunate  for  Pancho.  The  woman  was 
an  inveterate  talker,  and  soon  informed  me  that  she  was  not  the 
comadrita  of  his  children  ;  nor  had  a  cart  run  over  his  grandmother  ; 
in  fact,  he  had  none,  as  she  had  died  before  Pancho  was  born.  This 
was  a  new  phase  of  the  subject,  but  I  was  not  long  in  solving  the 
enigma.  He  had  been  goaded  long  enough  by  my  American 
methods;  he  had  become  the  butt  of  ridicule  from  his  friends,  and 
now  he  would  assert  himself. 

However  well  he  was  treated  in  our  house,  to  be  called  upon  to 
surrender  the  most  precious  boon  of  all  his  ''  costumbrcs  " — the  market 
fees — never!  But  to  wound  my  feelings  in  leaving  was  far  from  his 
wishes,  so  he  shrewdly  planned  and  carried  out  the  tragic  story  of  the 
mishap  to  his  grandmother. 

The  comadrita  introduced  herself  with  chastened  dignity  as  Jesu- 
sita  Lopez  ;  but  with  head  loftily  erect,  and  an  air  of  much  conse- 
quence, informed  me  that  the  name  of  her  viarido — (husband) — was 
Don  Juan  Bautista  (John  the  Baptist),  servidores  de  V. — ("your 
obedient  servants"). 

She  smiled  at  every  word,  a  way  she  had  of  assuring  me  of  her 
delight  in  being  allowed  to  serve  me,  but  at  the  same  time,  glanced 
ominously  at  the  cooking-stove.  The  smile  lengthened  into  a  broad 
grin  when  Don  Juan  Bautista  came  in  sight;  in  her  eyes  he  was  "king- 
doms, principalities,  and  powers."  Together  they  examined  the  stove 
— talking  in  undertone — stooping  low  and  scrutinizing  every  compart- 
ment. At  last  Don  Juan  Bautista  arose,  and  turning  to  me  said,  "  Je- 
susita  cannot  cook  on  this  mdquina  Americana"  (American  machine). 
"Why?"  I  asked.  He  straightened  himself  up  to  the  highest 
point,  half  on  tip  toe,  at  the  same  time  nodding  his  head,  and  point- 
ing his  forefinger  at  Jesusita,  emphatically  replied: 

"  Because  it  will  give  her  disease  of  the  \\MQX—como  siempre — as 
always,  with  the  servants  here." 


94 


FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


On  going  to  the  kitchen  a  little  later,  I  was  surprised  to  see  the 
gentle  Jesusita  seated  in  the  middle  of  the  floor,  by  a  charcoal  fire, 
with  all  my  pottery  vessels  in  a  heap  beside  her.  Meats,  vegetables, 
and  water  were  all  at  hand,  and  she  was  busily  engaged  in  prepara- 
tions for  dinner.  I  told  her  to  come  and  see  how  well  she  could  cook 
on  that  American  machine,  but  she  only  answered,  "  No  cs  costuni- 
brc ;  "  besides,  "  Don  Juan  Bautista  said  it  would  give  her  the  cnfcr- 
uicdad,  or  sickness,  before  mentioned — and  no  man  knew  more  than 
he" — which  meant  I  should  use  my  own  machine. 

I  called  upon  Don  Juan  Bautista  to  go  with  me  to  market,  when 
he  at  once  entered  into  a  lengthy  discourse  about  ladies  going  to  such 

places ;  that  the  jcnte  dccente 
(people  of  pedigree)  never  did 
such  things ;  that  "  the  people 
in  the  streets  and  markets 
would  talk  much  and  say  many 
things."  But  of  this  I  had 
already  had  a  foretaste. 

I  was  about  to  lead  the  way 
through  the  big  door,  when 
Jesusita  came  forward  and  laid 
her  soft  hand  upon  me,  saying: 
'■  Seflora,  do  not  go;  Juan  knows 
better  than  you  about  such  busi- 
ness. In  this  country  ladies  like 
you  send  the  mozo."  But  I  was 
proof  against  her  persuasive 
eloquence.  To  surrender  my 
entire  nationality  and  individu- 
ality was  not  possible  for  a  good 
American. 
The  pair  talked  aside  in  low  undertone,  which  I  watched  with 
feigned  indifference  and  half-closed  eyes.  Jesusita  glanced  com- 
miseratively  at  me,  as  if   she  had  used  her  best  efforts  to  no  purpose  ; 


A    HUNGRY     la'PCHA-^ER, 


'yVO   ES   COSTUMBREP 


95 


but  Don  Juan  Bautista  threw  his  most  determined  and  unrelenting 
expression  upon  me,  as  if  to  say  :  "  Well,  she  has  had  enough  warn- 
ing; now  the  responsibility  rests  on  her  own  shoulders  !  " 

He  looked  back  at  Jesusita  as  he  stepped  from  the  door,  nodding 
his  head — "  Weil, — I  will  go  ;  but  she  will  wish  she  had  not  gone  !  " 

In  the  market  Juan  Bautista  never  left  me  for  a  moment,  inspecting 
closely  everything  I  bought — now  and  then  throwing  in  a  word  when 
he  thought  I  was  paying  too  much.  He  counted  every  cent  as  fast 
as  I  paid  it  out,  and  noted  every  article  placed  in  the  basket.  I  had 
nearly  completed  my  purchases,  and  was  talking  to  a  woman  about 
the  prospect  for  butter — regretting  the  difficulty  of  getting  it, — when 
she  leaned  across  the  table,  waggling  that  tireless  forefinger  at  me, 
saying,  "  En  cstc  ticinpo  ya  no  hay,  no  cs  costninbrc  "  ("  At  this  time 
of  the  year  there  is  none"),  Juan  Bautista  chiming  in  (with  the  inter- 
minable waggle  of  his  forefinger  also),  "  No  !  no  hay  !  "  ("  No,  indeed, 
there  is  none"). 

The  last  purchase  was  made,  and  I  was  about  closing  my  purse, 
when    glancing    up,    I    saw    Juan 

Bautista's    great    merciless    eyes  .,»-  ^,--''--^iE^ 

fixed  upon  me,  while  he  said  in 
a  firm  voice  :  "  But,  mi  pilon, 
Seilora ! "  This  is  tlie  custom 
of  the  country.  If  you  stay 
at  home,  I  get  my  pilon  from  the  j 
merchants  and  market  people  ;  if 
you  come — I  must  have  it  any- 
how. A  wrangle  was  impossible, 
and  handing  him  dos  rcalcs 
(twenty-five  cents),  I  went  home  a  far  wiser  woman. 

Jesusita  looked  proudly  upon  the  towering  form  of  Juan  Bautista 
as  he  entered  the  portal — basket  in  one  hand,  dos  realcs  in  the  other. 
Not  a  word  was  spoken  between  them,  but  looks  told  volumes.  She 
knew  what  Juan  could  do,  and  he  had  proved  to  her  his  ability  to  cope 
with  the  stranger  from  any  part  of  the  world.     To  myself  I  confessed 


NO.'  NO  hay:  (theke  is  none.) 


9^  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

that  in  Don  Juan  Bautista  I  had  found  a  foeman  worthy  of  my 
steel. 

I  asked  him  to  light  the  fire  in  the  stove  and  I  would  make  an- 
other effort  to  instruct  Jesusita  in  its  management.  He  went  about 
it,  while  I  withdrew  for  a  few  moments  to  my  room.  Very  soon  I 
noticed  that  the  house  was  full  of  smoke.  Supposing  it  to  be  on  fire, 
I  ran  to  the  kitchen,  which  was  in  a  dense  fog,  but  no  fire  visible. 
Nor  was  Jesusita  or  Don  Juan  Bautista  to  be  found.  The  cause  of 
the  smoke  was  soon  discovered.  He  had  built  the  fire  in  the  oven, 
and  closed  the  doors  ! 

I  clapped  my  hands  for  them,  according  to  custom  ;  but  they  came 
not.  I  then  found  them  sitting  in  the  shady  court  ;  Jesusita's  right 
arm  lay  confidingly  on  Juan  Bautista's  big  left  shoulder,  as  she  looked 
up  entreatingly  at  the  harsh  countenance  of  the  arbiter  of  her  fate. 

I  gleaned  from  their  conversation  that  she  wished  to  remain,  but 
her  marido  was  evidently  bent  on  going.  On  my  approach  they  rose 
politely,  and  Juan  Bautista  delivered  the  valedictory,  assuring  me  in 
pleasant  terms  of  their  good-will  ;  and  it  was  not  the  pilon  business — 
tliat  had  been  settled — but  the  certainty  that  Jesusita's  health  would 
be  injured  by  using  the  cooking-stove  decided  him. 

He  said  they  would  go  to  their  " pobre  casa  " — I  knew  they  had 
none  ;  then  gathering  up  their  goods  and  chattels,  with  the  unvarying 
politeness  of  the  country,  ''Hasta  otro  vista  "  ("  Until  I  see  you  again  "), 
I'ajftz  r.  con  Dios  !  "  ("  May  God  be  with  you  !  "),  they  stepped  lightly 
over  the  threshold — looked -up  and  down  the  street,  uncertain  which 
way  to  go — then  out  they  went  into  the  great  busy  world.  Thus  dis- 
appeared forever  from  my  sight  Pancho's  comadnta. 

In  every  new  servant  we  employed  new  characteristics  were  de- 
veloped. All  agreed  in  their  leading  cosiumbres,  yet  differed  in  the 
manner  of  carrying  them  into  effect,  while  their  quaintness  and  indi- 
viduality afforded  me  constant  entertainment.  Some  came  humbly, 
giving  only  one  name,  while  others  used  much  formality,  never  failing 
to  give  the  prefix  Don  or  Dorta. 

Their  names  were  as  puzzling  as  their  hereditary  customs.     I  found 


"  NO  ES  costumbrk: 


97 


PIO   QUINTO  (PIUS   V.)    AS   A    DOOR-KEEPER. 


that  while  the  Southern  negro  had  been  shrewd  in  appropriating  the 
names  of  such  great  men  as  George 
Washington,  Henry  Clay,  and 
Thomas  Jefferson,  the  Mexican  ser- 
vants had  hkewisc  availed  them- 
selves of  the  names  of  their  own 
great  men.  1  hired  Miguel  Hidalgo 
twice,  Porfirio  Diaz  once,  Manuel 
Gonzales  three  times,  as  also  numer- 
ous others.  But  when  a  little,  old, 
weazened,  solemn-looking  man, 
with  a  face  as  sanctimonious  as  an 
Aztec  deity,  wanted  employment, 
and  gave  his  name  as  "  PioQuinto" 
(Pius  v.),  assuring  me  he  would 
guard  well  my  front  door,  he  quite  took  my  breath  away. 

Among  the  many  who  came  immediately  under  my  observation 
was  a  newly  married  pair  who  had  walked  a  hundred  miles,  seeking 
employment.  They  had  neither  beds  nor  bedding;  nor,  in  fact,  any- 
thing save  the  soiled,  tattered  clothing  they  wore. 

The  wife's  name  was  Juanita,  and  knowing  that  Juan  meant 
John,  I  then  supposed  that  the  addition  of  the  ita,  signifying  little, 
made  it  Little  John ;  but  a  further  knowledge  of  names  and 
idioms  revealed  the  fact  that  Juana  was  Jane,  and  Juanita  little 
Jane.  But  I  began  by  calling  her  Little  John,  and  so  continued  as 
long  as  she  was  in  my  employ.  The  diminutive  was  peculiarly  appro- 
priate. I  see  her  now — this  patient,  docile,  helpful  child-\\oman. 
Her  wealth  of  shining  black  hair  hung  in  a  long  plait  ;  her  eyes,  soft, 
yet  glowing  with  a  strange,  peculiar,  half-human,  half-animal  fire. 

When  the  rcbozo  fell  from  her  shoulders,  a  dainty  figure  was  re- 
vealed—  the  contour  exquisitely  rounded.  Her  hand  and  arm  would 
have  delighted  an  artist  for  a  model.  Her  step  on  the  stone  floor  was 
light  and  free — noiseless  as  that  of  a  kitten.  Her  voice  was  plaintive, 
sweet,  and  low,  accompanied   by  a  manner  so  gentle,  so  humble — ex- 


98 


FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


pressing  without  saying,  "  May  I  do  something  for  you  ?  "  If  I  were 
sick,  Little  John  would  take  her  place  on  the  floor  by  the  bedside, 
hold  my  hands,  stroking  them  tenderly,  bathe  my  brow  and  feet, 
murmuring  in  pathetic  tones,  "Alt  pobre  Scilora  !  "  (''  My  poor  lady 
or  madame  "),  whicli  finall)'  died  away  on  half-parted  lips,  with 
"  Pobrccita  !  "  ("  Poor  little  thing!  ") 

I  was  curious  about  her  family  ties,  and  asked  her  of  her  people, 
a  hundred  miles  away.  "Have  you  a  father  and  mother?"  said  I 
one  day.  The  little  form  swayed  back  and  forth.  She  made  a  low 
wail — the  most  pitiful  heart-cr\' — a  smothered  pent-up  sob,  laden  with 


A    STKEET   SCENE. 


all  the  griefs  of  Little  John's  orphaned  life.  With  tearful  eyes  and 
bowed  head,  clasping  my  hands,  she  wailed  out  again  and  again, 
"  Muertos  !  "  ("  Dead  !  ")  "  iVv  /ciigo  uias  que  uii  iiiariiio  !  "  ("  I  have 
only  my  husband  ").     The  poor  little  creature's  story  was  told. 

In  consideration  of  my  many  difficulties  in  this  line,  I  was  glad  to 
give  them  employment,  when,  according  to  custom,  they  solicited  a 
portion  of  their  wages  in  advance.  Having  received  it,  the  wife,  ig- 
noring her  own  great  needs,  bought  material  for  clothing  for  her  hus- 
band. She  borrowed  my  scissors;  and  I,  curious  to  see  how  she 
would  manage  the  cutting,  went  to  her  room  to  note  the  process. 

As  thought  Pancho  about  "  fingers  having  been  made  before  knives 


"^\'6'    £S   CO^rUMHKE."  99 

and  forks,"  so  thought  this  yown'g pobre  about   seats,  as  she  sat,  tailor 
fashion,  on  the  dirt  floor. 

Such  measuring  and  calculating  as  she  had,  in  order  to  get  two 
shirts  out  of  three  yards  and  a  half!  I  laughed  until  I  cried  over  her 
dilemma,  as  well  as  over  the  solicitude  of  her  spouse  about  the  result. 
He  was  evidently  deeply  interested. 

She  was  only  fourteen  years  of  age,  wliich  gave  an  additional 
interest  and  a  touching  pathos  to  her  anxious  devotion.  I  thought 
to  myself:  "Woman-like,  you  will  give  your  last  farthing,  take  sleep 
from  your  eyes,  even  die,  for  the  man  you  love !  "  • 

Slie  finally  cut  out  the  shirts,  the  material  being  heavy  brown 
domestic,  and  with  the  same  untiring  earnestness  drew  threads,  made 
tiny  tucks  in  the  bosom,  and  when  they  were  completed,  brought  them 
to  me  for  inspection.  More  exquisite  stitching  or  more  perfectly  made 
garments  I  never  saw;  but,  as  might  be  imagined,  they  would  have 
been  a  close  fit  on  a  mere  boy.  This,  however,  was  no  impediment 
to  the  enthusiastic  zeal  of  this  interesting  pair,  and  the  shirts  were 
duly  worn  by  his  lordship. 

All  the  money  which  they  earned  jointly,  with  commendable  un- 
selfishness on  her  part  went  for  his  adornment,  she  continuing,  with 
the  aid  of  a  calico  dress  which  I  gave  her,  the  possessor  of  one  suit 
and  a  half.  With  the  same  ever  predominating  feminine  instinct,  shoes 
were  purchased  for  the  husband  ;  and  very  soon  he  was  strutting 
about  the  premises  as  if  monarch  of  all  he  surveyed. 

In  every  possible  way  he  made  pretexts  for  errands  that  he  might 
show  off  his  clothes.  His  peacock  strut  was  inimitably  funn)-,  ;in<l 
caused  me  unending  amusement,  though  the  smile  was  often  checked 
by  the  thought  of  the  poor  little  wife's  unselfishness.  The  heart  of 
woman  is,  after  all,  everywhere  the  same,  and  too  frequently  her 
devotion  must  be  its  own  and  sole  reward. 

One  of  his  edicts  was,  that  his  wife  should  not  dress  fowls.  The 
custom  of  skinning  instead  of  plucking  fowls  exists  in  Mexico.  But 
I  was  leaving  nothing  untried  to  have  everything  done  according  to 
my  notions.     One  day,  when  he  was  detained  away  for  several  hours, 


lOO 


FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


I  ordered  a  pair  of  chickens  for  dinner,  and  directed  poor  Little 
Johnny  ho-.v  to  prepare  them.  Without  remonstrance  she  went  will- 
ingly at  the  task  ;  but  before  the  chickens  were  ready  for  cooking, 
scfior,  the  husband,  returned. 

I  was  watching  with  bated  breath,  feeling  sure  there  would  be  a 
tempest.  He  did  not  intend  I  should  witness  the  ddnoAment,  but  I 
was  determined  to  see  the  fun. 

Without  speaking  audibly,  he  passed  by  where  she  was  standing, 
wrenched  from  her  hands  the  partly  dressed  fowls,  and  in  a  moment 
more  disappeared  in  the  corral. 

I  took  another  route  to  find  my  chickens,  and  instinct  led  me  to 
the  spot.  On  going  to  the  carriage-house,  I  found  them  with  strong 
cords  tied  around  their  necks,  suspended  from  the  old  vehicle.  By 
hanging  the  poor  dead  chickens,  he  retaliated  for  my  presumption  in 
directing  his  wife  to  prepare  them  without  his  consent  and  in  his 
absence. 

My  curiosity  next   led  me  to  see  whether  he  had  hanged  his  wife, 

or  was  erecting  a  gallows  for 
me.  Searching  about  the  garden 
and  out-houses,  1  found  the 
couple  in  an  unfrequented  walk. 
She  was  wringing  her  hands  and 
crying,  while  he  stood  bolt  up- 
right, bestowing  upon  her  every 
severe  expression  and  word  of 
chastisement  at  his  command. 
His  jetty,  straight  hair  stood  up 
all  over  his  head,  his  eyes 
glittered  with  rage,  his  brown 
lips  were  white,  and  his  teeth 
champed  viciously  !  All  this  was 
accompanied  by  the  popping  of 
his  fists  together,  in  the  most 
Every     time    this    tragic    part    of    the    perform- 


oh!    forgive    I  E,    11. 1-    NEVER    DO    SO    AOAIN. 


effective     manner. 


"A'O    ES   COSTU.VBKE."  lOt 

ance  was  executed,  she  would  jump,  and  give  a  fresh  liowl  of  agony 
over  the  disobedience  she  had  so  innocently  practiced,  saying  :  "  Per- 
donaine,  no  lo  vuclvo  d  hacer  "  ("  Oh,  forgive  me,  I  won't  do  it  again  "). 

The  end  of  all  this  was  that  they  took  up  their  pallets  of  maguey 
and  walked,  leaving  me  to  a  pious  meditation  on  the  frailties  and 
foibles  of  human  nature  in  general,  and  on  the  peculiarities  of  Mexican 
servants  in  particular;  and  also  to  the  disagreeable  necessity  of  cut- 
ting the  chickens  down,  and  preparing  my  dinner  single-handed. 

The  meek  little  wife,  guarded  by  her  grim  liege,  looked  back  at  me 
askant,  slyly  kissed  her  hand,  and  smiled.  This  was  the  last  I  saw 
of  Juanita. 

The  7/1030,  of  all  the  various  servants,  was  daily  becoming  more  and 
more  a  vexatious  problem.  Indispensable,  but  to  the  last  degree  puz- 
zling, I  was  anxious  to  know  at  what  point  in  my  experience  the  tol- 
erated or  "  customary  '"  labors  of  this  individual  would  be  introduced. 
The  time  had  now  come  when,  as  I  feared,  his  entire  vocabulary  would 
narrow  down  to  this  one  familiar  sentence,  "  No  es  costunib-re,"  and  he 
would  assume  the  immovable  and  useless  position  of  a  mere  figure- 
head. My  imagination  was  wrought  to  an  exalted  state  of  anticipa- 
tion, and  I  knew  not  what  a  day  would  bring  forth.  Every  day  carried 
me  nearer  to  the  time  of  Mother  Noah,  and  to  a  world  of  chance. 
Wood,  when  not  in  small  pieces  and  sold  from  the  backs  of  burros, 
brought  root,  branch,  and  top,  on  ancient  carts  with  wooden  wheels, 
larger  than  the  Aztec  calendar  ;  dogs  called  "  Sal  "  regardless  of  sex  ; 
the  j-ellow  of  the  egg  white  ;  corn  husks  sold  by  the  hundred  ;  vinegar 
from  France;  and  the  tomato,  our  delicious  vegetable,  here  assuming 
the  masculine  prefix  he-tomato  (spelled  jitoinati) ;  all  these  things 
formed  a  grotesque  panorama  of  curious  contradictions  all  safely  forti- 
fied behind  the  cast-iron  "  Cosiiiinbrcs." 


CHAPTER    IV. 


THE    LOAN    OF   A    MOZO,    AND    A   TRIP   TO    PALOiMAS. 


THOUGHT  I  had  heard  of  every  loan  known 
to  man,  even  of  the  dire  necessity  of  borrow- 
ing a  broom,  but  to  have  reached  the  climax 
of  borrowing  a  man-servant  was  a  supreme 
pinnacle  of  glory,  to  which  even  the  loftiest 
flights  of  my  vanity  had  never  hoped  to  soar. 

No    high    words    nor    outspoken    disagree- 

ment    ever  occurred     between     the    departing 

servants   and  myself,  but  the  fact    began  to  dawn  upon   ine  that  they 

did  not  intend  that   their  Mexican   customs  should  ever  be  engrafted 

upon  my  American  tree  of  knowledge. 

Without  a  murmur  of  complaint,  in  almost  every  instance,  tliese 
meek-voiced,  studiously  polite  Iioinbrcs  would  inform  me  that  sickness 
in  their  families  required  their  immediate  presence.  If  I  ventured  to 
ask  where  their  families  resided,  their  replies  varied  according  to  the 
state  of  the  weather  or  their  good  will  to  me.  Frequently  the  answer 
would  be,  in  Guadalajara,  Zacatecas,  or  San  Luis  Potosi,  neither  of 
which  places  was  nearer  than  three  hundred   miles. 

In  time  I  came  to  observe  every  mood  and  gesture,  and  could 
generally  detect,  some  days  ahead,  the  indications  of  a  contemplated 
departure.  I  remember  Don  Miguel  Rodriguez,  as  he  called  himself, 
who  was  determined  to  go  away  so  silently  that  I  should  not  suspect 
his  heartless  intention. 

He  had  given  me  the  gratifying  information  that  he  had  no  family, 
but,  as  the  event  proved,  my  hold  on  him  was  no  stronger  for  this 
circumstance.  He  now  looked  at  me  as  if  to  say  :  "  Well,  now, 
Sefiora,  you  need  not  suppose  that  I  do  not   understand  your  ways  as 


■J HE   LOAJV   OF  A    MOZO,    A.VD   A     I  kll'    TO   PALOMAS. 


103 


well  as  our  own  customs.  You  have  had  no  fewer  than  tueiity  inozos, 
and  while  they  have  all  left  you  without  the  least  disagreement,  /, 
Don  Miguel  Rodriguez,  could  explain  all.  I  know  why  they  have 
gone,  but  you  don't.  I  am  far  ahead  of  )'ou,  poor  ignorant  gringo  ! 
Some  day  you'll  know  more  than  you  do  now  !  " 

Each  one  in  turn  seemed  to  regret  going,  but  at  the  same  time 
showed  plainly  that  my  ideas  of  life  and  of  the  management  of  a 
household  were  far  removed  from  his  own.  But  without  a  note  of 
warning,  or  an  intimation  of  his  purpose,  Don  Miguel  took  his  hat  in 
hand,  turned  his  head  across  his 
shoulder,  while  the  most  cynical  ex- 
pression that  could  have  been  de- 
picted on  the  face  of  a  human  being, 
or  of  a  inozo,  played  about  his  eyes 
and  mouth  as  I  anticipated  his  move- 
ments, and  awoke  to  tlie  certainty 
that  another  faithful  one  had  gone 
to  join  the  band  of  invincibles. 

Tlie  word  pucs  is  thrown  in  be- 
tween sentences  so  generally,  and 
has  so  many  significations,  such  as, 
"  well,  "  "  then,  "  "  therefore,  " 
"  since,"  "  surely,"  and  many  others, 
that  it  is  not  always  easy  for  a 
stranger  to  settle  the  point.  Tlie 
servants,  however,  in  pronouncing 
this  word  make  an  amusing  abbrevia- 
tion of  it  into  "^ pos."  And  so  it  was 
that  Miguel  only  said,  '' Pos  ciitonccs 
yo  inc  voy "  ("  Well,  now,  I  am 
going"),  but  his  face  and  figure  spoke 
volumes.  I  learned  from  each  one 
of  them  in  a  different  way,  the  hope- 
lessness and    foil)-  of  any  attempt  to 


*  WELL,    NOW,    r.M    GOI.NG.' 


I04  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

change  their  hereditary  customs  or  invest  them  with  new  ideas.  Good 
and  faithful  enough  they  were  until  tlie  impression  was  fixed  upon 
them,  that  they  were  losing  their  national  "  costiiiiibres." 

A  gentleman  who  often  visited  our  house,  and  who  had  been  long 
a  resident  of  the  country,  and  who  knew  full  well  the  importance  of 
the  WAW,  and  that  the  respectability  of  our  household  was  at  a  low  ebb 
without  that  all-important  adjunct,  kindly  loaned  us  one  of  his  trus- 
ties. Many  times  we  were  the  recipients  from  him  of  this  order  of 
hospitality. 

I  used  to  think  there  could  be  no  better  opening  for  a  good,  pay- 
ing business  than  for  some  enterprising  Mexican  to  establish  an 
employment  bureau  for  ino::os,  and  exact  of  them  that  their  families 
reside  in  the  same  cit)'. 

Cosme,  our  borrowed  iiwco,  was  duly  installed,  with  highly  grati- 
fying results.  He  was  several  degrees  above  the  common  herd,  and 
more  trusty  than  the  best,  having  been  trained  by  Doiia  Angelina,  the 
wife  of  our  friend.  Cosme  had  a  most  benignant  face,  with  an  open, 
beaming  countenance,  and  every  duty  he  performed  was  done  with 
the  zeal  and  alacrity  which  had  characterized  no  other  nioso,  within 
the  range  of  my  experience.  The  wish  in  my  heart  that  took  pre- 
cedence of  all  others,  at  this  time,  was,  that  I  should  not  be  forced 
to  the  necessity  of  hearing  from  him  that  forever  emphatic  avowal 
which  had  ere  now  well-nigh  crazed  me,  "No  cs  costuinbrc .' "  I 
knew,  if  he  once  began,  my  peace  of  mind  and  happiness  were 
gone. 

To  prevent  it,  every  species  of  a  now  highly  cultivated  ingenuity 
was  called  to  my  assistance.  The  possibility  began  to  haunt  me  like 
a  grim  specter.  It  was  ever  present  day  or  night,  awake  or  asleep. 
It  never  relinquished  its  hold  upon  my  faculties.  It  was  written  on 
the  wall,  look  where  I  would.  It  stalked  up  and  down  the  street 
defiantly.  It  was  astride  every  burro,  and  waved  its  hands  at  me, 
every  turn  I  made  in  the  house.  My  brain  was  on  fire,  my  senses 
dazed.  Where  fly  for  relief?  One  could  hope  for  a  respite  from  the 
haunting    custom    officials,   but  this,   all-pervading,  deep-seated,  and 


ni;iiW,ipimpp'««Pt||ii||lji||j 


■J HE  LOAN  OF  A    MOZO,    AND  A    TRIP    TO    PALOMAS.  lO/ 

irrepressible,  had  screwed  its  courage  to  the  sticking-place  and  would 
not  down.     My  only  hope  was  in  Cosme. 

Things  moved  pleasantly  enough  for  the  first  few  days,  in  which 
Cosine  charmed  us  by  his  kindness  and  watchfulness  of  the  premises. 
I  let  him  have  his  own  way,  about  the  manner  in  which  his  various 
labors  were  performed.  I  remained  away  from  where  he  was,  and  not 
once  had  the  dreaded  expression  fallen  from  his  lips  within  my  l.car- 
ing,  prior  to  our  trip  to  Palomas.  "  The  things  whicli  try  people 
show  what  is  in  them."     It  so  proved  with  Cosme. 

Business  called  us  to  Palomas  for  a  day.  It  was  settled  that  we 
should  go  in  a  carriage  drawn  by  a  spirited  pair  of  dark  mahogany 
thorough-breds,  which  had  never  been  known  to  let  anything  pass 
them  but  a  mozo. 

Cosme  was  up  betimes  on  this  particular  morning.  He  was  more 
nimble  and  ready  than  ever  before,  in  contemplation  of  the  j)leasure 
of  an  airing  in  the  country.  He  gave  his  own  characteristic  toilet 
many  extra  touches.  He  washed  his  face  and  combed  his  hair,  and 
even  borrowed  the  blacking,  in  order,  as  he  said  :  ''Para  dar  negro  a 
las  botas  "  ("  black  his  boots  ").  So  e.xcited  was  he  that  he  partook 
of  little  breakfast.  The  gray  daw-n  silently  melted  into  bright  streaks 
of  purple  and  amber,  and  the  gorgeous  ravs  of  the  sun  threw  a  genial 
halo  over  the  quiet  city,  as  he  made  his  happy  preparations.  When 
the  moso  is  promoted  to  the  honor  of  an  equestrian,  his  name  changes 
to  that  of  "■peon  de  estribo'''  i"  slave  of  the  stirrup").  This  will  better 
describe  Cosme's  services  on  this  occasion  than  to  be  known  as  simply 
a  7noso.     His  was  no  ordinary  service. 

Custom  requires  the  moso  to  lead  the  way  for  vehicles,  to  look  out 
for  intruders,  ward  ofT  interlopers,  and  to  be  on  hand  in  case  of  acci- 
dent.  During  long  journeys,  where  the  travelers  camp  out,  or  stop  in 
mesons,  the  woco  goes  ahead  and  arranges  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  entire  party.  Not  even  a  drive  within  the  city  limits,  is  contem- 
plated without  the  mozo  leading  the  way,  although  every  route  is  thor- 
oughly understood  by  the  driver.  He  is  to  be  relied  upon  in  his 
representation  as  to  the  safety  or  expediency  of  any  route  or  m^son. 


io8 


FACE    TO    FACE    UFTH    THE   MEXICANS. 


On  this  particular  morning  we  went  all  around  our  half  of  the  cas- 
tle, bolting  and  barring  windows  and  doors,  so  that  even  a  cat  might 
not  intrude  during  our  absence. 

A  first-class  riding  horse  of  large  size  was  scarce  indeed,  although 

it  was  hard  to  find  a  really  bad- 
looking  one,  for,  owing  to  their 
Andalusian  blood,  they  were  all 
graceful  and  spirited.  It  had 
been  our  good  fortune  to  pro- 
^  cure  a  large,  magnificent  animal 
to  be  used  solely  for  this  pur- 
pose. His  flowing  tail  touched 
the  ground,  and  his  mane  was 
long  and  glossy.  He  was  do- 
cile, and  frequently  ate  sugar 
or  salt  from  mj'  hand.  At  a 
moderate  speed  his  gait  was 
easy  and  comfortable  for  the 
rider,  but  when  urged  to  unusual 
exertion,  it  became  something  terrible.  This  horse  Cosme  mounted. 
Never  did  mozo  start  out  with  prospects  more  flattering  for  a  pleas- 
ant canter  over  the  smooth  roads,  than  did  Cosme  on  that  i8th  day  of 
September. 

After  passing  through  the  narrow  streets,  our  road  lay  for  the  most 
part  across  the  usual  Sahara-like  expanse  of  country,  only  varied  by 
the  line  of  mountains  on  one  hand,  and  on  the  other  by  several  cotton 
factories,  with  their  groves  of  cedar  and  other  evergreens.  They  were 
not  imposing,  but  by  comparison  with  the  neighboring  monotony,  to  my 
tired  eyes,  were  as  interesting  as  the  most  famous  castle  on  the  Rhine. 
Once  or  twice  we  passed  strings  of  burros,  overladen  with  market- 
able commodities — pulque  in  sheep-skins,  filled  even  to  the  feet  with 
the  favorite  beverage;  also  wood,  stone  for  building  purposes;  and 
whole  families  of  human  beings  were  sometimes  perched  upon  one  of 
these  weary  animals. 


PULQUE    IN    SHEEP-SKINS,    FILLED     EVEN    TO   THE    FEET, 


THE    LOAN    UF   A    MOZO,    AND  A     TRIP   TO    PALOMAS. 


lOg 


By  far  the  most  charming  sights  were  several  beautiful  mountain 
cascades  which  gushed  at  intervals  from  the  rocks  in  clear  streams  of 
sparkling  purity.  Far  up  in  the  ledge  of  a  precipice  or  declivity,  a 
spring  burst  forth  suddenl)-,  then  dropping  in  a  glistening  fall,  broke 
away  down  the  scraggy  mountain  side  in  a  foaming  cascade,  and,  liav- 
ing  disported  itself  in  a  thousand  lights  and  shapes  of  beauty,  quietly 
gathered  itself  together,  and  flowed  away,  a  musical  murmuring  brook. 

But  Cosme  took  heed  to  none  of  these  agreeable  interludes  in  the 
monotony,  nor  of  the  monotony 
itself.  He  was  otherwise  en- 
grossed. Intent  upon  keeping 
bravely  in  front  of  us,  where  cus- 
tom had  placed  him.  it  became 
necessary  for  him  to  travel  faster 
and  faster,  until  his  gallant  steed 
was  finally  dashing  along  at  the 
maddest  possible  rate.  There  was 
no  restraining  our  fiery  team,  and, 
of  course  the  faster  they  traveled 
the  worse  for  poor  Cosme.  Ob- 
livious to  passing  objects,  the 
merciless  animal  bounced  Cosme 
up  and  down,  but  he  held  on  bravely,  his  arms  broadly  akimbo,  his 
linen  blouse  floating  out  in  horizontal  lines,  his  sombrero  dancing  up 
and  down,  as  if  to  keep  pace  with  himself.  He  swayed  backward  and 
forward,  jolted  and  jostled  as  he  kept  up  his  wild  career!  Now  and 
again  he  ventured  to  turn  and  look  back,  as  if  to  implore  us  not  to  go 
so  fast  ;  but  our  horses'  spirits  could  not  be  checked ;  there  was  no 
help  for  Cosme  ! 

Once,  when  hedged  in  by  an  impassable  barrier  of  stone  on  one 
side,  and  a  line  of  determined  burros  on  the  other,  we  were  near 
enough  to  call  aloud:  "  Cosme,  go  more  slowly!  ride  in  the  rear!" 
The  temptation  and  pressure  of  circumstances  were  too  great,  and 
once  again,  after  an   interval   of   rest,   my  ears  were   greeted    by   the 


K    f-ALii.MA 


no 


FACE   TO  FACE    WITH   THE  MEX/CAAS. 


feeble,  halting  voice  of  Cosme,  utteriiis^  in  hollow  accents  :    '"  Pos  ?io  cs 
costumbre  !  " 

That  grim  specter  of  departed  tnosos  was  again  thrust  at  me.  But 
what  recourse  had  I  ? — what  vengeance  dared  I  seek  upon  this  poor 
untutored  boy,  for  his  deep  devotion  to  what  he  considered  the  duty 
of  his  office?  If  Cosme  had  died  on  the  road,  or  a  hundred  robbers 
had  surrounded  and  threatened  his  life  and  property,  except  he  rode 
in  the  rear  of  the  carriage,  he  would  have  forfeited  his  all,  and  his  body 
would  have  been  found,  where  all  good  iiiosos  like  to  be — in  front. 

When  Palomas  was  reached,  and  our  horses  were  reined  in  pre- 
paratory to  halting  in  front  of  the  house  where  we  were  to  spend  the 
day,  an  amusing  spectacle  greeted  us.  Faithful  Cosme  was  lying  on  the 
ground.  The  whites  of  his  eyes  only  were  visible  ;  he  quaked  and 
shook,  as  if  in  convulsion  ;  his  tongue  lolled  from  his  mouth,  and  his 
whole  attitude  bespoke  utter  prostration.  On  stepping  from  the  car- 
riage, I  ventured  to  go  near  him,  and  inquire  as  to  the  nature  and  ex- 
tent of  his  injuries.  Between  chattering  teeth  and  spasmodic  jerks  he 
raised  himself  on  his  elbow,  saying:  "El  caballo  anda  nmy  duro" 
("  The  horse  goes  very  hard  ") — "/  tcngo  miicho dolor  de  cabeza  "  ("  and 
I  have  a  bad  headache  "j.     Shortly  afterwards  when  he  appeared  before 

me  again,  he  had  a  green  leaf 
pasted  on  either  temple — the  sov- 
ereign remedy  of  the  common 
people  for  headache. 

Palomas  is  a  small  village,  with 

little  to  recommend  it  save  that  it 

?g  is  picturesqueh' situated  in  a  pass 

"i^K'^-l  —  Canon  de  las  Palomas  (Pass  of 

^■^"tC'  the  Doves) — in  the  Sierra  Madre 

Mountains,   which    here  separate 

the  valley    of    Saltillo    from    the 

iW^   table-lands  leading  to   San   Luis 

Potosi.      It    has   a    thousand   in- 

A  pi<-nRE.,.HE  TRAVELER.  habltants,  consisting  for  the  most 


THE   LOA.V   OF  A    A/OZO,    AND  A    JKIP    TO    PALO  MAS.  Ill 

part  of  persons  employed  in  the  cotton  factory,  the  leading  industry, 
shepherds  and  laborers  on  the  adjacent  farms. 

Rising  somewhere  amid  the  heights  which  frown  down  upon  the 
inoffensive  village  a  stream  of  pure,  sparkling  water  resolves  itself  into 
quite  an  imposing  cascade,  making,  at  one  jump,  a  fall  of  perhaps  fifty 
feet,  thence  flowing,  broken  and  frothing,  along  its  tortuous  way  through 
the  pass.  Here  the  stream  is  deflected  from  its  natural  bed  into  a  ditch 
to  furnish  water-power  for  a  cotton  factory  of  one  hundred  looms,  and 
having  served  this  purpose,  it  is  taken  through  irrigating  ditches,  and 
spread  over  the  corn  and  wheat  fields  of  the  Saltillo  valley.  The  falhng 
stream  is  hemmed  in  on  one  side  by  the  jagged  gray  rocks,  which  rise 
up,  naked  and  solemn,  to  grand  heights — speaking,  in  their  stern 
silence,  unutterable  things. 

On  the  other  side,  we  beheld  the  verdure  of  the  native  grasses, 
which  lent  beauty  and  color  to  the  landscape  after  the  destitution  of 
the  bare  scenery  of  our  monotonous  sixteen-mile  ride,  and  a  touch  of 
gentleness  to  this  otherwise  rugged  and  awe-inspiring  scene.  My  im- 
agination readily  saw  in  the  crags  and  serried  peaks  the  likeness  to 
some  towering  cathedral,  antl  I  almost  heard  the  chimes  from  its  tur- 
ret. In  fanc}-  the  silent  multitude  passed  in  and  out  at  the  doors  of 
this  imaginary  temple,  to  whisper  their  petitions,  and  then  disappear 
in  the  deep  recesses  of  the  rocks. 

It  was  through  the  Caiion  de  Palomas  that  General  Minon,  who 
commanded  a  wing  of  Santa  .Anna's  cavalry  during  the  American  war, 
was  sent  to  flank  General  Taylor,  from  the  Agua  Nueva,  on  the  day 
of  the  battle  of  Buena  Vista.  Had  General  Taylor  met  with  defeat, 
this  cavalry  force  would  have  been  in  Saltillo  almost  as  soon  as  Taylor's 
army. 

The  neighboring  mountains  are  covered  with  extensive  pineries, 
yielding  large  quantities  of  lumber,  tar,  pitch,  and  turpentine,  which 
find  a  market  near  home. 

The  house  of  the  haccndado,  where  we  spent  the  day,  was  typical 
of  all  houses  in  the  towns  and  villages — a  plain  adobe  structure, 
low.  flat,  and  with  simple  pounded,  earthen   floors.      We  had  scarcely 


112 


FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 


entered  the  best  room  of  the  house,  when  one  of  my  favorite  Mexican 
processions  approached  the  big  door.  A  string  of  fifteen  meek-look- 
ing donkeys  laden  with  wood  marched  solemnly  through  the  main  hall 
just  as  they  did  in  my  own  house,  followed  closely  by  the  driver, 
uttering  his  characteristic  "  tschew  !  tschew  !  —  and  punching  them  at 
every  step. 

The  parlor  had  its  line  of  plain  home-manufactured  chairs,  ar- 
ranged methodically  around  the  sides  of  the  room,  as  close  together  as 
they  could  possibly  be  placed.  At  the  extreme  end,  farthest  from  the 
door,  was  a  home-contrived  sofa,  or  divan,  which  extended  almost  the 
entire  length  of  the  room.  It  was  built  into  the  wall,  having  only  the 
front  legs  visible.  Its  height  was  nearly  two  feet  from  the  floor.  At 
either  end  were  seven  hard  stiff  cotton  pillows  elaborated  with  Mexican 
lace,  the  product  of  a  universal  feminine  instinct.  The  covering  was 
a  gay  chintz,  which  was  fastened  to  the  framework  as  a  cushion,  and 
the  upholstering  was  completed  below  by  a  valance  of  the  same  fabric. 

The  rocking-chairs,  —  home-manu- 
factured also — occupied  their  nor- 
mal attitudes  as  vis-a-vis,  at  either 
end  of  the  sofa.  I  was  tired  from 
the  long  drive,  and  the  rocking- 
chairs  had  an  inviting  look,  so  with- 
out ceremony  I  ventured  to  take 
one.  Instantly  three  women  came 
to  me,  all  laying  their  hands  ten- 
derly about  me,  and  with  one  voice 
insisted  that  I  must  occupy  the  sofa. 
To  ascend  this  wonderful  structure 
— "la  sofacita,"  as  it  was  called — I  found  it  necessary  to  give  a 
spring  and  a  leap,  almost  as  if  vaulting  into  a  saddle. 

An  unusual  bustle  and  commotion  about  the  house,  and  the  con- 
tinual passing  back  and  forth  of  so  many  people,  made  it  evident  that 
some  exciting  event  was  about  to  take  place.  Two  doctors  were  to 
perform   some   surgical   operations.     About    half  a   dozen   girls   were 


AS  I  LOOKKD  WUEN  MOUNTED    UPON  THE  SOFACITA. 


THE   LOAN   OF  A    MOZO.    A.VD    A    TRIP    TO    PALOMAS.         II3 

suffering  from  enlarged  tonsils,  which  it  had  become  necessary  to  re- 
move. The  girls  belonged  to  different  families,  and  this  fact  set  nn; 
to  speculating  as  to  whether  enlarged  tonsils  were  contagious,  custom- 
ary, or  due  to  the  climate.  Having  already  received  so  many  proofs  of 
their  martyr-like  devotion  to  their  customs,  I  was  prepared  to  adopt 
the  second  hypothesis  upon  the  slightest  evidence.  When  the  sur- 
geons were  ready,  the  father  of  the  eldest  girl,  with  great  tenderness, 
placed  her  in  a  chair.  The  mother  fled  to  the  corral  to  avoid  the 
sight  of  her  child's  distress  and  pain.  As  soon  as  the  girl  was  in  a  posi- 
tion ready  for  the  instrument,  she  would  jump,  and  ^vring  her  hands, 
cr\'ing  and  solemnly  declaring,  she  could  not,  and  would  not,  submit 
to  the  operation.  All  the  neighbors  came  in  to  look  on,  and  with  dif- 
ficulty she  was  finally  held  down  by  the  strong  arms  of  her  father  and 
one  of  the  surgeons, — and  the  work  was  done.  The  father  with  deep 
concern,  murmured  something,  to  my  ear  almost  inaudible,  but  he 
kissed  the  girl  again  and  again  ;  and  at  last  the  words  came  :  "  My  poor 
child  !   my  baby  !  my  sweet,  good  girl  !  " 

The  other  girls  were  soon  induced,  by  the  gay  spirits  and  compla- 
cence of  the  first,  to  be  seated  and  have  a  similar  operation  performed. 
I  thought  of  the  well-known  fable  of  the  fox,  when  the  tree  had  fallen 
on  his  tail,  depriving  him  of  that  useful  appendage,  when  with  char- 
acteristic cunning,  he  told  the  other  foxes  that  to  wear  no  tail  was  the 
mode,  and  thereupon  no-tailed  foxes  at  once  became  the  prevailing 
style.  An  old  woman,  who  looked  like  a  servant,  came  in  and  per- 
formed various,  and,  to  me,  amusing  incantations  with  the  forefinger  of 
her  right  hand  ;  keeping  up  at  the  same  time  a  continuous  mumbling 
of  some  incoherences  peculiar  to  her  class. 

The  curiosity  that  was  manifested  by  the  crowd,  and  the  earnest 
inspections  that  took  place  after  the  operations  were  made,  and  the 
vigilance  with  which  the  girls  watched  the  disposition  of  their  bereft 
members  provoked  a  smile.  It  reminded  me  of  childhood  days,  when 
we  jealously  guarded  a  tooth  when  it  fell  out,  for  fear  that  a  pig 
might  get  it,  and  the  dire  consequence  follow  of  a  pig's  tooth  taking 
the  place  of  the  lost  one. 


114  facb:  to  face   with  the  Mexicans. 

If  one  thing  more  than  another  surprised  me,  it  was  the  fact  that 
ahnost  without  exception,  all  the  family  and  the  people  gathered  at 
the  house  of  our  host  were  afflicted  with  a  distressing  form  of  catarrh. 

At  such  an  altitude  and  in  a  clime  so  salubrious  and  bracing,  high  up 
in  the  mountains,  with  an  atmosphere  dry  and  pure,  that  either  lung, 
nasal,  or  throat   troubles  should  exist,  afforded   food  for   reflection. 

Cosme,  although  sadly  battered  and  bruised,  managed  to  creep  to 
the  window,  and  look  on  at  the  result  of  the  operations.  On  seeing  what 
was  going  on,  he  muttered  indistinctly  :  "  Caraniba  !  "  (Good  gracious  !) 
— "  For  Dios  saitto  !  "  The  painful  experiences  of  his  ride  established 
a  community  of  suffering  between  himself  and  the  damsels,  which 
gave  intense  pathos  to  his  words. 

About  fifty  persons  had  assembled  in  the  house,  or  hung  about  the 
windows.  I  was  so  intensely  absorbed  in  studying  the  strange  dark 
faces  and  party-colored  costumes  that  it  was  some  time  before  it 
dawned  upon  me  that  I  was,  if  possible,  an  object  of  still  greater  in- 
terest to  them  than  they  to  me.  I  spoke  to  one  or  two  of  the  women, 
and  reassured  by  my  friendly  tones,  they  approached  me.  Soon 
others  followed,  when  I  became  the  center  of  an  extended  group — 
every  one  regarding  me  with  almost  unappeasable  curiosity. 

Everything  about  me,  to  the  most  trifling  detail,  filled  them  with 
childish  astonishment.  As  their  shyness  vanished,  they  became  as 
familiar  as  children.  They  toyed  with  the  banged  hair  on  my  fore- 
head, saying  in  amused  tones  :  "  Que  bonitas  cstan  !  "  "  Que  cliulas  !  " 
("  How  pretty  they  are  1  ") 

They  took  off  my  hat  gently,  and  tried  it  on,  one  after  another. 
They  felt  the  texture  of  my  dress — a  very  simple,  navy  blue  nun's 
veiling — evidently  regarding  it  as  something  unapproachabl)- splendid. 
Then  my  fan  caught  their  attention.  It  was  the  color  of  the  dress, 
and  strewn  with  red  roses.  They  held  it  close  to  the  dress,  then  to 
the  hat,  comparing  them,  and  the  fact  that  all  three  corresponded  in 
color,  struck  them  immediately  as  decidedly  the  proper  thing.  "  She 
has  good  taste  !  "  they  said  approvingly  to  one  another, — "  Yes,  very 
good  taste  !- — very  good  manners  ! — a  very  fine  lady  !  " 


.1     < 


THE   LOAN   OF  A    MOZO,    AND   A     IKIP    JO   PALOMAS.  11/ 

One  of  them  fingered  a  knot  of  red  and  blue  ribbons  at  my  throat, 
saying  :  "  From  France  ?  No  such  fine  things  here  I  " — Everything 
iinc,  in  their  estimation,  comes  from  France.  They  seemed  incredu- 
lous, when  I  patriotically  informed  them  that  the  United  States,  and 
not  France,  had  furnished  me  forth  in  all  this  astonishing  glor\-.  He- 
fore  I  knew  it,  one  had  picked  the  bow  to  pieces,  and  drawn  the  rib- 
bons out,  to  see  how  long  they  were.  Another  called  attention  to  the 
Newport  ties  on  my  feet,  and  compared  them,  with  much  curiosity, 
and  some  envy,  with  lier  own  shoes,  which,  after  the  fashion  of  the 
country,  were  sharjily  pointed.  All  appreciated  the  greater  comfort 
of  the  American-made  shoe,  but  ended  by  shaking  their  head.s — 
"Very  nice — very  pretty — but" — and  what  an  execrable/^?//.'  "No 
IS  costiiinbrc  Mcxicaua  !  " 

They  were  equally  curious  about  my  family  relations,  asking  me 
the  number  of  my  brothers  and  sisters,  nieces,  nephews,  cousins,  and 
aunts — never  stopping  until  I  had  named  them  all,  their  location  and 
business.  When  I  mentioned  a  name,  they  immediately  caught  it  up, 
and  tried  to  translate  it  into  Spanish,  showing  much  satisfaction  when 
successful.      Their  efforts  in  this  direction  were  laughable. 

They  translated  readily  Willie,  Guillermo  ;  Fanny,  Panchita;  Rich- 
ard, Ricardo  ;  Andrew,  Andres;  but  Walter  was  a  stumbling-block, 
they  neither  translated  nor  pronounced  it.  They  asked  me  if  in  our 
country  we  had  houses  of  adobe  and  windows  like  theirs  with  wooden 
rods  outside?  Their  eyes  opened  wide  and  wider,  as  I  described  our 
houses  as  from  two  stories  in  height,  to  five,  eight,  ten  and  thirteen. 
They  evidently  thought  I  was  drawing  on  my  imagination. 

When  asked  if  in  our  country  we  used  carriages,  goats,  and  burros 
— had  haciendas,  ranches,  factories,  and  mills,  I  described  as  well  as 
I  could  our  resources.  They  were  convulsed  when  I  told  them  that 
-until  I  came  to  Mexico,  I  had  never  seen  in  my  whole  life  more  than 
six  burros.  They  appreciated  and  sympathized  with  my  lack  of  educa- 
tion on  the  burro  question  ;  for  to  be  beyond  the  sight  of  a  line  of 
them  was  equivalent  to  being  out  of  the  republic. 

Every  one  of  the  various  persons  with  whom  I    chatted  asked    me 


Il8  FACM    TO   FACE    WITJI    THE   MEXICANS. 

if  it  were  not  very  sad  for  mc  in  their  country.  But  I  had  not  the 
courage  to  tell  them  it  was  sad  for  me  ;  in  truth  I  was  so  intensely 
interested  in  them,  and  their  peculiarities,  there  was  no  room  for 
dwelling  on  mysel/. 

They  evidently  appreciated  my  friendly  spirit  and  the  willingness 
with  which  I  allowed  them  to  examine  my  toilet,  not  even  resenting 
the  liberty  of  one,  somewhat  more  inquisitive  than  the  rest,  who  lifted 
my  dress  a  little  to  explore  my  hose,  on  which  they  murmured  repeat- 
edly :  "  She  is  very  siinpdtica"  a  word  for  which  we  have  no  exact 
equivalent   in  English,  but  which  perhaps  explains  itself. 

It  was  among  these  country  people  that  I  first  observed  any  de- 
parture from  the  national  type  of  feature  and  complexion.  Some  of 
them  had  glossy  brown  hair,  gray  eyes,  and  skin  as  fair  as  an  Anglo- 
Saxon  ;  while  others  had  red  hair,  freckled  faces,  and  pale  blue  eyes. 
The  parents  of  one  of  these  was  pointed  out  to  me.  They  were  of 
swarthy  brown  complexion,  with  black  hair,  dark  eyes,  and  in  fact,  all 
the  characteristics  which  I  had  come  to  regard  as  typically  Mexican. 
Among  them  all  1  observed  the  same  gentleness  of  demeanor,  and 
courteous  bearing,  which  had  already  so  forcibly  impressed  me  in  the 
city,  among  all  classes. 

Birth  and  education  had  nothing  to  do  with  it.  It  was  an  ex- 
quisite instinct,  common  to  the  people  as  a  nation.  Even  here  in 
Palomas,  among  a  plain  untutored  population,  of  the  laboring  class, 
especially  among  the  ignorant,  wondering  women  who  had  dissected 
my  toilet  with  such  innocent  complacency,  it  struck  me,  for  in  spite 
of  their  unconventional  behavior,  they  were  as  gentle  and  courteous 
as  royal  duchesses. 

About  twelve  o'clock,  the  family  began  making  [^reparations  for 
serving  dinner,  which  I  watched  with  keen  interest.  One  of  the 
daughters  of  the  liaccndado-  came  into  the  parlor,  and  mounting  a  chair,- 
on  which  she  had  placed  a  bo.x,  opened  a  small  door  high  up  in  the 
wall,  which  I  had  not  before  observed.  From  this  snug  retreat — the 
alhacciia — she  carefully  drew  forth  cups  and  saucers  of  exquisite  china, 
as  fragile  as  egg-shells,  and   beautifully    ornamented.     When    she  had 


THE    LOAN  OF  A    MOZO,    ANU    A     TRIP    TO    PALOMAS.  I  I9 

taken  out  four  of  each,  she  gently  closed  the  door  and  left  me  wonder- 
ing if  it  had  an  "  open  sesame  "  spring  in  the  bolt  ;  for  I  looked  in 
vain  for  the  little  door,  which  when  closed  became  invisible.  I  con- 
cluded it  was  a  safe  retreat  for  such  articles  of  value  in  case  of  a  rev- 
olution. 

The  table  was  spread  in  a  bed  room.  We  took  our  seats,  the  host 
at  the  head,  but  his  wife  did  not  put  in  an  appearance,  nor  indeed  did 
any  other  member  of  the  family.  First  of  all,  soup  was  served  from 
the  kitchen  in  quaint,  glazed  pottery  bowls,  elaborately  ornamented 
on  the  outside  with  vines  and  flowers,  and  on  top  of  each  bowl  was  a 
hot  tortilla.  Next  the  national /^^c/^rr^  was  brought  in  on  plates,  the 
tortilla  in  this  instance,  being  slapped  down  by  our  plates  from  a  fork. 
This  removed,  a  kind  of  stew,  perhaps  cliilc  giiisado,  which  I  had  seen 
in  the  market — was  served  on  plates  with  a  narrow  green  rim  around 
them,  and  on  each  was  placed  another  hot  tortilla.  The  next  course 
was  roast  mutton,  served  on  plates  which  this  time  had  a  red  rim — 
and  again  a  tortilla.  Ne.xt  came  a  roast  of  pork,  filled  with  spices  and 
pepper.  While  hot  enough  to  make  one  scream,  it  was  nevertheless, 
delicious.  With  all  these  courses,  we  were  served  with  salsa  dc  chili 
bravo  (green  pepper-sauce).  Our  host  took  great  pains  to  initiate  me 
into  the  merits  of  this  sauce,  but  I  could  scarcely  look  at  it  without 
shedding  tears  copiously  over  its  pungency.  We  had  no  vegetables, 
save  the  puchero  which  is  described  in  another  place  ;  but  when  the 
last  meat  course  was  removed,  we  were  served  with  a  delicious  quince 
jelly,  which  ended  this  excellent  and  hospitably  served  repast. 

When  dinner  was  over,  and  I  was  gratifying  an  idle  curiosity  by 
looking  about  the  rooms,  the  eldest  girl  came  in,  and  took  her  position 
on  the  floor,  unrolling,  as  she  did  so,  a  handsome  pair  of  slippers 
which  she  was  embroidering.  How  strangely  out  of  place  they  looked 
to  me,  in  the  hands  of  the  girl  seated  on  the  earthen  floor!  I  won- 
dered who  would  be  the  one  about  those  premises  to  wear  them. 
But  the  design  and  the  manner  in  which  the  work  was  executed  would 
have  been  creditable  in  any  country. 

The  extreme  nicety  and  regularity  with  which  the  Mexican  women, 


I20  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   AJEXICA.\S. 

even  in  the  plainest  walks  of  life,  carry  out  any  contemplated  design, 
with  needle  and  thread,  on  linen  or  cotton,  is  quite  remarkable. 
Time  seems  to  have  no  value.  It  is  the  custom  in  many  places,  for 
girls  to  learn  all  the  dainty  stitches,  and  while  yet  in  their  teens,  be- 
gin to  prepare  spreads,  table-covers,  napkins,  and  mats,  which  when 
they  are  married  will  constitute  a  part  of  their  household  goods. 

When  the  wife  of  our  host  came  in,  she  found  me  intently  engaged 
in  scrutinizing  the  bedspread,  and  began  at  once  explaining  its  his- 
tory. She  said  it  was  the  work  of  her  grandmother,  who  began  it 
when  a  girl.  It  had  been  a  part  of  her  bridal  outfit,  and  afterwards 
descended  to  her  mother,  then  to  herself.  The  material  was  bleached 
domestic,  but  the  design  was  at  once  unique  and  ingenious.  In 
the  center  was  a  large  pattern  of  flowers  and  fruit  ,  with  the  daintiest 
vines,  leaves,  arteries,  and  traceries  to  be  imagined — all  done  by  means 
of  drawn  threads  and  spool  cotton.  Around  the  entire  spread  was  a 
valance  wrought  in  the  same  exquisite  manner.  The  space  adjoining 
the  border  of  plain  domestic,  above  the  valance,  was  a  kind  of  inser- 
tion, filled  in  with  figures  of  girls  and  boys  swinging  and  dancing, 
women  carrying  water  on  their  heads,  shepherds  with  their  crooks, 
and  donkeys  with  their  burdens — all  truly  represented  by  deft  fingers, 
guided  by  shrewd  feminine  observation.  A  long  flat  cotton  bolster 
had  a  case  with  several  subdivisions  at  equal  distances  apart,  filled  in 
with  fine  crochet  insertion.  The  bolster  had  first  a  covering  of  red, 
then  the  case  stretched  on,  skin-tight,  thus  exhibiting  the  pattern  of 
the  lace.  Laid  pyramid-like  upon  each  other  were  ten  pillows,  each 
one  a  little  smaller  than  the  other,  and  all  decorated  with  the  same 
lace.  The  spread  and  pillow-cases  represented  years  of  untiring,  earn- 
est labor,  and  also  an  inconceivable  amount  of  precious  eyesight, 
which  these  people  evidently  regarded  as  a  mere  nothing. 

Altogether  the  day  spent  at  Palomas  was  a  most  agreeable  one, 
and  even  now  to  recall  it  affords  a  high  degree  of  satisfaction.  It 
opened  to  an  appreciative  eye  the  inner  workings  of  the  home  life  of 
the  plain  country  people,  in  their  original  simplicity.  Ah!  peaceful 
Palomas  ! — "  Pass  of   the  Doves  " — name   unique  and  suggestiye,  for 


rilE    LOAN  OF  A    MOZO,  AXD   A     TRIP    TO    I'ALOMAS.  131 

their  softly-melancholy  coo !  coo!  coo!  penetrated  this  humble  home 
from  the  clumps  of  trees  near  by.  May  no  ruthless  innovator  remodel 
your  simple  adobes  !  no  insatiate  gringo  invade  and  despoil  your 
sacred  domain  !  But  throughout  all  time,  may  you  and  your  honest 
people  continue  to  live  out  your  lives,  undismayed  and  undisturbed 
by  any  progressive,  distracting  or  contaminating  influence!  In  primi- 
tive blicsful  ignorance  and  ior.ocence  may  your  children  live  out  their 
allotment  of  three-score-and-ten  years,  bare-footed,  bare-headed,  and 
unsullied  by  contact  with  modern  galvanized  institutions! 

I  watched  Cosme  with  a  humorous  interest  while  he  was  preparing 


SWEET  CONTENTMENT   AT  THE    PASS    OF  THE    DOVES. 


for  our  return  home.  He  looked  at  his  valiant  steed  now  and  again 
furtively,  shaking  his  head  and  muttering  something  about  not  going 
so  fast  on  our  2turn.  Poor  Cosme!  It  was  the  old  story  of  man  pro- 
posing and  a  higher  power  disposing.  The  air  was  fine  and  bracing, 
and  when  we  were  all  in  our  proper  places  for  the  homeward  journey, 
I  will  confess  to  no  small  amount  of  uneasiness  concerning  Cosme. 

The  numerous  and  long-continued  adios  of  our  kind  host  and  his 
family,  and  their  friends,  were  wafted  to  our  ears  by  the  evening 
breeze,  and  in  a  twinkling  we  were  out  of  sight  of  the  house  and  dash- 
ing along  the  highway  toward  home.  The  horses  attached  to  our 
vehicle,  were  apparently  fresher  than  when  we  started  in  the  morning. 


122  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

and  if  we  went  out  rapidly,  the  return  was  more  rapid  still.  Cosmo's 
horse  dashed  along  before  us  with  lightning  speed,  and  soon  made  his 
hapless  rider  but  a  vanishing  speck  in  the  dim  distance.  The  trip 
home  was  accomplished  in  almost  half  the  time  required  in  the  morning. 

On  the  outskirts  of  the  city  we  halted  for  a  few  moments,  in  con- 
versation with  a  friend,  and  Cosme,  not  knowing  it,  preceded  us  to  the 
house.  On  arriving  we  found  he  had  opened  the  great  door,  and  there, 
on  the  bench  in  the  hall,  he  was  stretched  full  length,  the  most  utterly 
exhausted,  bruised  and  aching  martyr  that  ever  suffered  for  a  cherished 
principle.  In  spite  of  the  irresistibly  comic  nature  of  it  all,  I  could  not 
help  feeling  an  acute  sympathy  for  my  poor  servant,  and  Cosme,  see- 
ing it,  was  duly  grateful.  The  horse  he  had  ridden  was  walking  about 
the  court  at  will. 

My  dear  little  friend,  Pomposita,  had  watched  for  our  coming,  and 
I  had  scarcely  alighted  from  the  cainage  ere  she  came  over  and  gath- 
ered me  in  her  arms,  saying  that  the  day  had  seemed  to  her  like  a 
week,  as  she  watched  and  waited  for  my  return  with  feverish  impa- 
tience. She  clapped  her  hands,  and  laughed  immoderately,  when  I  re- 
lated to  her  the  amusing  incidents  of  our  trip  to   Palomas. 

The  next  day  Cosme  appeared  before  me  limping,  while  his  coun- 
tenance was  indeed  crestfallen  and  sorrowful  as  he  said  that  he  would 
have  to  leave  our  service,  adding  in  a  conciliator}'  way  that  it  was  not 
because  he  did  not  like  us  and  our  mode  of  life,  nor  that  he  would  not 
willingly  serve  us  until  the  end  of  his  days,  but  he  wished  to  learn  the 
trade  of  a  blacksmith. 

The  dreadful  suspicion  dawned  upon  me,  that  as  I  could  not  Amer- 
icanize the  mozo  I  would  have  to  Mexicanize  myself  and  household. 
Faithful  Cosme  !  How  sorry  I  was  to  lose  him  !  At  last  I  knew 
enough  of  the  characteristics  of  the  ino::o  to  shrewdly  suspect  that  h'S 
excuse  was  only  a  polite  cover  for  his  deep  consciousness  of  the  suffer- 
ings he  had  endured  in  our  service  the  previous  day.  He  did  not  in- 
tend to  serve  in  a  household  wl;ere  such  an  occurrence  might  be  indefi- 
nitely repeated.  He  would  be  a  inoao  for  the  house  ;  for  the  high- 
way— never! 


THE    LOAN    OF  A    MOZO,    AXD   A     TRIP    JO  PALOMAS.         1 23 


I  made  every  effort  to  conciliate  him —  "  never  again  would  his 
services  be  demanded  on  such  a  ride."  I  walked  about  the  court  dis- 
consolately, talking  kindly  to  him.  Nearer  and  nearer  he  approached 
the  door.  I  followed,  entreating  him  not  to  go  ;  well  knowing  that  if 
I  lost  Cosme — and  all  the  other  nioaos  had  gone  to  San  Luis  Potosi,  or 
some  other  far-away  city,  to  see  their  families, — not  a  shadow  of  op- 
portunity remained  to  procure  another. 

An  admirable  feature  in  Cosme's  composition  was  his  love  of  truth. 
He  had  never  heard  the  story  of  the  cherry  tree  and  the  little  hatchet, 
but  his  innate  veracity  was  not  to  be  outdone  by  anybody.  Somehow 
I  always  felt  that  when  Cosme  did  go  he  would  express  the  real  cause 
of  his  leaving  and  not  quote,  like  his  predecessors,  a  mythical  family's 
imaginary  demands.  Nor  was  I  mistaken.  When  the  poor  boy 
reached  the  door  he  halted,  turned  and  looked  mournfully  at  me.  as 
though  imploring  me  not  to  ask  him  to  stay  longer,  while  in  patiietic 
tones  he  murmured, "'  Pos  cntonces  yo  ntc  voy  ;  ai/ios,  Sciiorita  "  ("  Well, 
now,  I'm  going ;  good-by,  Seii- 
orita  "). 

He  stood  on  the  threshold,  per- 
haps forthe  last  time,  when  I  again 
ventured  to  remonstrate,  ■'  Well, 
now,  Cosme,  why  won't  you  stay?  ' 
Almost  closing  the  heavy  doors  as 
if  to  prevent  another  appeal,  and 
tossing  his  hat  far  back  on  his 
head,  his  eyes  rolling,  his  face 
ashen  but  determined,  he  made 
the  final  piece  dc  resistance  with 
admirable  finesse.  Catcliing  the 
huge  key  and  closing  the  door,  so 
that  he  barely  had  a  view-  of  my 
face,  while  one  foot  halted  on  the 
threshold,  with  bent  figure  and 
eyes  beaming  kindly    regret    upon 


'  YOl'R     AME-^ICAN    Cl'STOVS  ARE  TOO    HARD     ON    ME- 


124  FACE    TO  FACE    UITH    THE   M  EX  J  CANS. 

me,  there  came  the  inevitable  movement  of  the  forefinger  before 
the  nose  as  he  faintly  replied,  "■  Porquc  tan  fiicrtas  son  las  costuin- 
brc'S  A  vicricanus  iiic  molest  an  y  cargan  vnicho  y  tan  pesadas  que  no  piiedo 
vivir  bajo  de  ellos  "  ("  Your  American  customs  are  too  troublesome  and 
too  heavy  a  load  for  mc  to  carry  ;   I  can't  live  under  them  "). 

The  last  that  I  heard  from  Cosme  was  one  of  the  invariable  part- 
ing salutations,  "Hasta  Incgo"  (  "  I'll  see  you  again  "),  followed  by  the 
invocation.  "Queda  con  Dios  !  no pucdo cstar  mas"  ("  May  God  be  with 
you  !   for  I  can't  stay  any  longer  "). 


i  ml'' 


CHAPTER  V. 


FROM    BORDER    TO    CAPITAL   AU)i\G    THE    MEXICAN    CENTRAL. 

AMONOS !"  shouts  the  smartly  uni- 
formed American  conductor  in  the 
cstacion  on  the  further  bank  of  the  Rio 
Grande.  This  rhythmical  Spanish  word 
affords  a  pleasing  contrast  to  its  sharp 
^E  prosaic  equivalent  known  to  us  as  "^// 
aboard!"  The  bell  rings,  the  engine 
shrieks  and  hisses,  then  smoothl)-  we 
glide  along  in  that  crowning  luxury  of 
civilization  —  a  Pullman  car — into  the 
"  land  of  the  cactus  and  sweet  cacao." 

The  open  plain  stretched  afar  on  this  glorious,  full-moon  night,  and 
seemed,  like  the  ocean,  to  blend  its  horizon  with  the  heavens.  No 
sound  broke  the  stillness  save  the  rumble  of  the  train  or  the  occasional 
shriek  of  the  locomotive  with  its  warning  to  the  loitering  cattle  on  the 
road-bed,  all  unconscious  of  their  danger. 

The  location  of  El  Paso,  whose  lights  were  fast  fading  in  the  dis- 
tance behind  us,  is  in  every  wa)'  desirable,  being  the  connecting  point 
of  the  Mexican  Central  with  the  railways  of  the  United  States.  Five 
connecting  lines  of  railway  enter  the  city:  the  Galveston,  Harrisburg 
and  San  Antonio  ;  the  Southern  Pacific  ;  the  Texan  Pacific  ;  the  At- 
chison, Topeka  and  Santa  Fe,  with  good  prospects  for  another.  There 
can  be  no  doubt  but  that  it  will  be  a  great  railroad  center  and  dis- 
tributing point  for  the  Southwest. 

The  town  hugs  the  river  closely  and  nestles  snugly  in  a  fertile 
valley,  perhaps  fifty  miles  long,  in  which,  where  irrigating  facilities  are 
obtained,  wheat  and  corn  are  produced  in   great   abundance.      Its  alti- 


128  FACE    '10    FACh     UFT//    THE    MEXICANS. 

tude  is  about  tliree  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  sea  level,  and 
the  climate  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  that  of  the  table-lands  of 
Mexico.  The  same  irrigating  ditches,  lined  on  either  side  by  stately 
cotton-wood  trees,  are  serving  the  same  purpose  as  when  first  construct- 
ed by  the  Jesuit  missionaries,  more  than  three  hundred  years  ago.  A 
circle  of  mountains  to  the  north  and  east  affords  protection  to  the  city 
from  the  sharp,  penetrating  winds  that  sweep  over  Texas  from  the 
plains  of  Kansas. 

El  Paso  can  boast  of  excellent  hotels,  the  best  being  the  Grand  Ceji- 
tral,  and  the  possession  of  the  only  international  street  railway  bridge 
in  the  world  ;  also  an  interesting  old  church  about  three  hundred  years 
old.  The  greatest  drawbacks,  as  a  place  of  residence,  are  the  clouds 
and  columns  of  dust  that  for  a  great  part  of  the  year  drive  through  the 
streets,  entering  the  houses,  and  penetrating  every  nook  and  cranny. 

The  old  town  of  Paso  del  Norte  is  the  Mexican  El  Pasc,  as  Nuevo 
Laredo  is  the  Mexican  Laredo.  Each  one  is  a  necessary  complement 
to  the  other.  Paso  del  Norte  has,  however,  great  advantage  in  point 
of  age,  having  been  founded  about  the  year  1680.  The  town  to-day 
bears  the  imprint  of  all  Mexican  architecture.  The  cathedral,  once  a 
stately  and  imposing  structure,  even  now,  when  bereft  of  the  greater 
part  of  its  interior  adornments,  speaks  volumes  of  the  lapse  and  the  in- 
roads of  time.  The  nave,  chancel,  altar,  and  ceilings  bear  traces  of 
exquisite  and  masterly  workmanship,  but  tell  a  mournful  tale  of  deca)' 
and  faded  grandeur. 

The  famous  grapes  that  are  grown  at  Paso  del  Norte  are  perhaps 
the  most  prolific  and  delicious  known  to  us,  and  in  tiiat  genial  soil, 
where  irrigation  is  so  skillfully  employed,  they  are  prriduced  in  (juanti- 
ties,  and  shipped  to  all  parts  of  tlie  country. 

Curious  fences  inclose  the  farms  and  (jardens — a  bo.xing  of  cotton- 
wood  poles  filled  in  with  n.ud  or  an  earthen  cement,  making  not  only 
a  secure,  but  a  durable  fence. 

The  countr}'  for  perhaps  two  hundred  miles  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Rio  Bravo  is  but  a  counterpart  of  its  neighbor,  on  the  east  or  Texas 
side,  for  the  same  distance.     Chihuahua,  the  first  city  on  the  Mexican 


FKOM  BOADEM    TO    CAPITAL   ALOA'G    THE   MEX/CAA'    CENTRAL.    I2g 

Central,  lias  become  a  prominent  point  for  mining  operations,  and 
probably  a  larger  number  of  Americans  are  congregated  there  than  at 
any  place  outside  the  capital.  It  has  a  fine  climate,  is  situated  in  a 
beautiful  and  fertile  valley,  with  all  the  accessories  of  a  healthful  and 
thrifty  population.  One  hundred  years  ago,  however,  Chihuahua  was 
larger  than  New  York  ;  to-day  the  population  does  not  exceed  thirty 


THE  STREET   O.'    GUADALUPE,    CHIHUAHUA. 


thousand.  But  it  still  has  the  beautiful  cathedral  and  ancient  aque- 
duct, and  must  always  be  important  as  a  mining  center.  A  branch  of 
the  Mexican  mint  is  also  established  there. 

The  sleepy  old  town  of  Santa  Rosalia,  with  a  population  of 
about  seven  thousand,  is  the  next.  It  has  known  no  change  for 
nearly  a  half-century,  though  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  fine  agricul- 
tural region,  and  having  an  industrious,  orderly  population. 

Dr.  Charles  E.  Tarver,  witli  his  wife  and  five  children,  has  resided 
9 


l},0  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

here  for  a  number  of  years  on  account  of  tlie  extreme  healthfulness  of 
the  cUmate  and  the  benefits  the  doctor  has  received  for  his  protracted 
lung  troubles.  As  their  guest  during  my  stay  in  Santa  Rosalia  noth- 
ing was  more  interesting  than  to  watch  these  genuine  American  chil- 
dren transformed  into  veritable  Mexicans.  So  thoroughly  identified 
were  these  little  people  with  the  land  of  their  adoption  that  in  their 
daily  play  not  one  word  of  English  was  spoken ;  every  movement, 
tone,  gesture,  and  expression  was  entirely  Mexican,  even  to  their 
games  and  plays  and  r(7'^'.f(?-wrapped  dolls.  The  baby,  christened 
Charles,  repudiated  his  baptismal  name  and  clung  witli  infantile  per- 
tinacity to  its  Mexican  synonym  of  Carlos,  refusing  to  answer  to  any 
other.  The  next  in  age,  Marianita,  a  little  tot  of  three  and  a  half 
years,  interested  me  greatly  with  her  wealth  of  golden  curls  and  rog- 
uish face.  She  would  sit  on  my  lap  by  the  hour  entertaining  me  with 
the  most  amusing  translations  of  Spanish  into  English  and  vice  versa. 

One  day  her  father  returned  from  the  barber's  with  head  so  closely 
shaven  as  to  attract  the  attention  of  Marianita.  Climbing  upon  his 
chair  the  closer  to  observe  the  result  of  this  tonsorial  manipulation, 
she  exclaimed,  to  the  amusement  of  us  all:  "J//  eabeza  pe/oiieita" 
("  My  bald-headed  squash  ")  I 

Within  a  few  years,  warm  springs  have  been  discovered,  that  are 
said  to  possess  wonderful  healing  properties. 

My  desire  was  intense  to  visit  these  springs,  which  must  eventually 
prove  a  great  health  resort,  but  the  difficulties  attending  such  an  un- 
dertaking were  inconceivable. 

The  Rio  Concha,  which  it  was  necessary  to  cross  in  order  to  reach 
the  springs,  was,  at  that  time,  out  of  its  banks,  and  the  only  substitute 
for  a  boat,  excepting  the  railway  bridge,  wasan  ordinary  dry  goods  box 
manned  by  a  brawny  Indian.  If  we  embarked  at  Santa  Rosalia  the 
prospects  were  fair  of  our  disembarking  ten  or  twenty  miles  below 
that  point,  so  swift  was  the  current ;  or,  worse  still,  our  primitive  bark 
might  be  upset  in  mid-stream  and  ourselves  and  poor  "  Lo  "  left 
struggling  in  the  muddy  water.  As  the  chances  of  so  disastrous  a  termi- 
nation to  the  voyage  were  very  great,  we  concluded  to  forego  the  trip. 


FA'OM  BORDEK    TO    CAPITAL   ALONG    THE   MEXICAN   CENTRAL.    '3' 

The  remains  of  an  old  adobe  fort  that  was  captured  by  Dona- 
phan  when  he  was  en  route  to  join  General  Taylor  are  still  stand- 
ing. 

Santa  Rosalia  is  a  fair  representative  of  a  country  town.  But 
though  its  resources  are  limited,  the  inhabitants  are  not  witliout  their 
national  recreations,  having  a  pretty  little  plaza,  in  which  twice  a 
week  the  band  plays.  Especially  do  they  celebrate  the  5th  of  Maj' 
and  the  16th  of  September. 

I  enjoyed  the  latter  occasion  with  them,  and  attended  the-  grand 
baile  (ball)  in  the  evening,  for  which  extensive  preparations  were  made. 
The  lack  of  ball-room  or  public  hall  formed  no  impediment,  merely 
permitting  the  exercise  of  their  ingenuity. 

The  open  patio  of  the  city  hall  was  utilized  for  this  purpose,  first 
excavating  about  four  feet  of  uneven  earth,  and  refilling  with  good 
soil,  adding,  when  leveled,  great  square  stone  slabs — placing  straw 
thickly  on  these,  with  vianta  (brown  domestic)  stretched  tightly  over. 
And  the  floor  of  no  salon  could  have  been  smoother  for  dancing. 
Lace  curtains  hung  at  each  opening,  mirrors  and  paintings  alternating 
around  the  room,  and  garlands  of  the  rich  dark  leaves  of  the  cotton- 
wood,  tied  with  the  national  colors,  filled  the  spaces  between.  A  cover 
of  inaiita,  held  firmly  in  place  by  maguey  ropes,  formed  the  ceiling  of 
this  unique  ball-room,  and  numerous  chandeliers  illuminated  the  scene. 
When  the  baile  opened  and  the  gayly  dressed  senoritas  and  caballcros 
began  the  intoxicating  movements  of  the  daiiza,  exhilarated  by  the 
excellent  music,  it  was  an  enchanted  bower. 

The  Santa  Rosalians  are  a  kind  and  hospitable  people,  but  very 
fastidious  in  the  observance  of  their  social  laws  and  obligations.  On 
the  night  of  the  ball  we  went  at  half  past  eleven,  but  still  the  citizens 
had  not  arrived.  The  cotton-clad  mozos,  however,  were  going  back 
and  forth  from  the  ball-room  to  the  houses.  I  ascertained  that  the 
object  of  their  stepping  so  cautiously  to  the  front  door,  and  peeping 
in,  was  to  find  out  if  an)'  of  the  aristocracy  had  yet  made  their  ap- 
pearance. At  twelve  o'clock  the  labors  of  the  tnozo  ceased,  and  with 
the    rustle    of    silk    and    lace    beauty  and    fashion    entered.      On   the 


132 


FACE    TO    FACE    IVITH   THE   MEXICANS. 


faces  of  all  satisfaction  was  evident  that  one  belle  had  not  arrived  be- 
fore the  others. 

The  Rio  Concho  and  the  Rio  Florida  flank  Santa  Rosalia  on  either 
side,  and  from  them  open  ditches  run  through  the  town,  supplying 
water  for  domestic  purposes.  Policemen  are  stationed  at  intervals  to 
prevent  children  from  playing  in  the  water,  the  water-carrier  here 
as  elsewhere  being  an  important  factor  of  domestic  happiness  and 
comfort.     The  Rio  Concho  is  so  well  utilized  for  irrigating  purposes 


WATER-CARRIER   OF   SANTA    ROSALIA. 


that  the  haciendas  for  thirty  miles  on  either  side  are  amply  supplied 
with  water.  The  absence  of  timber  along  the  streams  is  noteworthy, 
the  only  forest  tree  in  this  section  being  the  cotton-wood.  This  for- 
tunately occurs  in  abundance,  and  furnishes  fuel. 

In  towns  the  size  of  Santa  Rosalia,  hotels  are  not  yet  considered 
necessary  to  the  well-being  of  the  inhabitants,  the  meson  supplying 
their  place.  Below  will  be  found  the  "  Notice  to  Travelers,"  as  I  saw  it 
in  that  o\i\  adobe  Xox^w.  This  and  the  water-spouts  jutting  out  like 
o-iant  arms  across  the  street,  afforded  equal  diversion. 


FROM   BORDER    TO    CAPUA L    A/.O.VG    THE   MEXICAN    CEA'TRAL.    133 
••  NOTICE  TO  TRAVELERS. 

"  Persons  who  wish  to  lodge  in  this  luisoii  will  subject  themselves  to  the  following 
rules  : 

"  1st.  The  house  is  opened  at  5  o'clock  A.  M.,  and  closed  at  10  p,  m.  Only  in 
urgent  cases  will  these  hours  be  altered. 

'■  2d.  Feed  for  animals  will  be  supplied  at  reasonable  prices,  but  outside  animals 
will  not  be  received. 

"  2>'-\.  The  prices  for  rooms  are— for  single  rooms  three  leals  per  day,  lor  double 
rooms  four  reals  (fifty  cents)  per  day.  For  each  room,  guests  are  entitled  to  two 
animals;  all  in  excess  of  two  will  be  charged  three  and  a  quarter  cents  per  head 
per  day  for  each  animal.     This  charge  is  for  standing  room  only,  feed  beim'  extra. 

"  Carriages,  wagons,  and  other  vehicles  will  be  charged  one  re.il  per  day,  each. 

'■  4th.  The  owner  of  this  establishment  is  not  responsible  for  objects  lost  from  the 
rooms  of  travelers,  or  animals,  or  anything  else,  unless  directly  delivered  to  tlie  care 
of  the  manager  or  left  in  the  house." 


The   room.s   at    three    reals  per  day   were   in   front,   and   those  for 
foiu',  in  the  rear,  near  the  horses. 

The /(■?//(?  of  this  meson  hatl  numerous  posts  in  the  ground,  which 
I  was  assured  were  placed  there  for  theatrical  purposes.  In  the  cen- 
ter of  the  open  square 
was  the  only  public 
hall  of  the  town,  and  at 
the  end,  quite  near  the 
horses,  a  stage  had  been 
constructed  with  mov- 
able scenery,  having  its 
sills  lashed  to  the  floor  by 
maguey  ropes.  On  gala 
nights  a  canvas  is 
stretched  over  the  poles, 
as    a    cover  ;     and     with 

numerous  lights,  and  the  customary    decorations,   a  brilliant   effect    is 
produced. 

With  many  regrets  my  two  weeks'  delightful  sojourn  at  the  hospit- 


TOP   OF    KITCHEN    CHI.MNEV    IN    SANTA    ROSALIA. 


134  FACE    TO   FACE    WITIf    THE   MEXICANS. 

able  home  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Charles  Tarver  terminated,  and  the  journey 
to  the  capital  continued. 

Jimenez  is  the  first  station,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  plain, 
and  contains  but  one  or  two  solitary  houses.  Parral,  a  fine  mining 
district,  is  about  fifty  miles  distant,  and  has  already  attracted  the 
attention  of  American  enterprise. 

Villa  Lerdo  is  the  next  station  ;  the  town  proper,  however,  is  located 
about  two  miles  distant,  but  conveyances  are  always  there  to  trans- 
port passengers  on  the  arrival  of  trains,  and  the  railroad  company  has 
a  fine  eating-house  there.  It  is  located  in  the  State  of  Durango,  in 
the  "  Laguna  Country,"  generally  known  as  the  best  cotton-producing 
region,  the  soil  and  climate  being  so  favorable  that  the  plants  need 
renewal  only  once  in  several  years.  From  thirty  to  forty  thousand 
bales  of  cotton  are  annually  shipped. 

The  capital  of  the  State  is  Durango,  more  than  one  hundred 
miles  away. 

After  leaving  Villa  Lerdo,  we  have  more  green  valleys,  more  water, 
and  stronger  evidences  of  the  fertility  of  the  country.  Both  the 
types  of  people  and  the  face  of  the  country  change  as  we  go  farther 
inland.     More  of  the  pure  Indian  blood  is  visible. 

Boundary  landmarks  are  seen  on  either  side  of  the  railway,  two  or 
three  feet  high,  built  of  adobe  or  stone,  and  having  octagonal-shaped, 
bright-painted  caps.  They  more  resembled  grim  tombstones,  leaving 
off  the  colored  caps,  than  the  purpose  for  which  they  were  constructed. 

As  we  speed  along  the  vast  table-lands,  over  the  smooth  broad- 
gauge  Central,  all  looks  restful  in  its  solitude.  But  such  dreary 
stretches  of  country,  without  apparently  an  inhabitant!  Now  and 
then  an  Indian,  black  as  charcoal,  stands  motionless,  crook  in  hand, 
in  tlie  midst  of  his  little  flock,  gazing  at  the  swiftly  advancing  and 
receding  train-p-his  big  hat  tilted  back,  framing  his  face — his  clothing 
of  iiianta  giving  him  a  ghost-like  appearance. 

For  centuries  the  table-lands  have  been  the  chief  highways  and 
avenues  of  commerce.  They  are  strangely  modeled,  and  extend  over 
a  territory  perhaps    fift)'  to  one  hundred  miles   in  width  from  El   Paso 


*4u^ 


UENUlNi.    THr.lK     WEARV    WAY. 


FRO.V  BORDER    TO    CAPITAL    ALOXG    THE    MEXICAN    CE.XTRAL.    137 

to  the  ticrra  ca/icii/c,  near  two  thousand  miles,  as  smooth  as  a  floor, 
broken  only  now  and  then  by  a  river  or  arroya  or  barranca.  Moun- 
tains on  either  side  rise  and  tower  nearer  or  more  remote  as  the  table- 
land narrows  or  widens.  The  mountains  are  dome-shaped  and  suj^^. 
gest  a  striking  analogy  between  nature's  economy  and  the  structural 
skill  displayed  by  man.  Mountains  and  churches  are  alike  dome- 
shaped. 

There  is  an  absence  of  large  and  navigable  rivers,  inland  lakes  and 
other  water-courses.  But  there  are  many  beautiful  valleys.  After  a 
dreary  desert  of  alkaline  sand,  parched  by  scorching  winds,  round  the 
turn  of  the  road  appears  a  lovely  vision  of  a  sweet  and  peaceful  val- 
ley, with  a  picturesque  village  or  city  resting  in  it  like  a  jewel  in  its 
setting. 

After  leaving  Fresnillo,  a  once  widely  known  mining  communit)-, 
now  in  disuse,  we  come  upon  Zacatecas,  the  highest  point  and  the 
largest  city  between  El  Paso  and  the  capital,  having  an  altitude  of 
about  nine  thousand  feet,  and  containing  nearly  one  hundred  thousand 
inhabitants.  Having  crept,  as  it  were,  along  the  smooth  table-lands, 
not  suspecting  the  nearness  of  this  grand  old  city,  its  sudden  appear- 
ance was  a  revelation  to  us,  with  its  towering  domes  and  glistening 
turrets,  its  lofty  chimneys  announcing  its  vast  industries  of  silver  min- 
ing and  coining. 

The  principal  streets  run  through  a  deep  ravine,  following  its 
widenings.  Cross  streets,  lined  with  domes  and  spires,  and  pictur- 
esque dwellings,  climb  the  mountain  sides.  The  houses  are  built  of 
stone,  brick,  or  adobe;  all  except  those  of  cut  stone  being  frescoed 
in  bright  colors  which  contrast  strangely  with  the  substantial  cliarac- 
ter  of  the  buildings.  The  Cathedral  has  an  elaborately  carved  facade. 
The  Mint,  the  Custom-House,  and  many  business  houses  are  of  cut 
stone,  porphyry  being  mostly  used.  The  Alameda  has  two  drives  and 
two  promenades,  the  latter  in  the  center  with  rows  of  trees  between 
and  stone  seats  along  the  outer  lines. 

This  distinctively  Mexican  city  has  now  been  invaded  by  the 
American  innovations,  street  railways,  telephones,  and  electric  lights. 


138  FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

The  Hotel  Zacatano  was  formerly  a  convent,  being  a  portion  of  the 
church  property  confiscated  in  1859  by  Juarez.  It  is  a  beautiful 
specimen  of  Moorish  architecture  about  three  centuries  old,  having 
been  begun  in  1576,  and  completed  twenty  years  later.  It  is  built 
around  an  open  patio,  and  entered  through  an  arched  carriage-way. 
The  church  adjoining  formerly  belonged  to  the  convent,  but,  with  a 
portion  of  the  building  in  front,  has  been  purchased  b)'  the  Presby- 
terian Hoard  of  Foreign  Missions  for  $24,000.  The  church  has  a 
membership  of  two  hundred  and  seventy-five,  besides  a  mission 
school. 

Zacatecas  is  perhaps  the  greatest  mining  camp  in  the  world,  about 
fifteen  thousand  men  being  now  employed.  A  thousand  millions  of 
dollars  is  said  to  have  been  the  value  of  the  output  here  in  the  last 
three  centuries.  Most  of  the  mines  are  now  owned  and  worked  by 
large  companies. 

The  Spaniards  commenced  working  the  mines  about  1540;  but 
they  had  then  been  operated  for  an  unknown  period  by  the  Indians. 
When  the  conquerors  learned  of  their  incredible  richness,  they  dis- 
patched five  thousand  Mexican  colonists,  with  a  strong  military  force, 
to  take  possession  of  the  region.  The  Indians  were  driven  to  the 
southwest,  but  the  name  of  their  chief,  Zacatecas,  was  given  to  both 
camp  and  province. 

Two  miles  north,  at  Oraso,  the  site  of  the  St.  Bernabe  Mine,  is  an 
old  chapel — the  Capilla  de  Bracho — dating  back  to  the  earliest  days 
of  the  Spaniards. 

Further  to  the  north  is  the  Veta  Grande  Mine,  opened  by  Tolsa 
in  1846,  and  named  the  "Alvarado."  Great  fortunes  have  been  made 
out  of  this  mine,  and  it  still  yields  immense  quantities  of  ore,  fifteen 
millions  of  dollars'  worth  having  been  taken  from  one  shaft  in  about 
ten  months.  The  Acacio  Company,  whose  members  reside  in  Spain, 
own  two  thirds  of  this  immense  property,  which  covers  fifty-five  square 
miles.  At  the  beginning  of  this  century,  the  San  Acacio  had  already 
produced  $140,000,000,  and  so  far  from  being  exhausted,  is  now  pro- 
ducing more  richlv  than  ever. 


V  i-     v^l/ 


■/ft' 


■s   ^      V        ^^ 


v\r^ 


^^^^ 


'* :, 


^'   Ji'^'V'f 


■\ 


v«a 


S  '      I 


r< 


*  '■'  v;f!ii  ft 


J-'KOM    BORDER    TO    CAPITAL   ALOA'G    THE   MEXICAN   CENTRAL.   I4I 

The  great  mine  of  the  Mahi  Noche  was  operated  for  centuries,  but 
is  not  now  worked — though  the  name  survives — the  Mexican  owners 
not  having  capital  to  cope  with  the  water.  The  La  Plata,  lying  be- 
tween the  Mala  Noche  and  the  Veta  Grande,  is  also  owned  by  Mex- 
icans.    Its  ore  now  yields  $800  to  the  ton. 

The  Cantara  Lode  is  an  immense  ridge,  running  along  the  face  of 
La  Bufa,  a  mountain  five  hundred  feet  in  height,  overlooking  the  town, 
its  crest  crowned  with  a  quaint,  historic  old  church.  \w  this  and  its 
principal  branch,  the  Quebradilla  vein,  are  situated  some  of  the  most 
productive  mines,  the  workings  of  which  extend  under  the  city  in  all 
directions. 

The  suburban  town  of  Guadalupe,  five  miles  distant  from  Zaca- 
tecas,  is  reached  by  street-cars  run  by  gravity.  The  mules  which  draw 
the  cars  to  the  city  are  unhitched,  and  the  return  is  made,  sin  nnilas 
("without  mules"),  with  startling  velocity  down  the  steep  incline. 

My  impressions  on  entering  Zacatecas  were  vivid,  and  what  I  saw 
of  this  interesting  city  will  remain  indelibly  impressed  on  my  mem- 
ory, but  on  leaving  it  I  found  that  the  bounteous  hand  of  Nature 
held  in  reserve  a  vision  of  exquisite  beaut}'.  The  results  of  the  high- 
est human  effort  often  bring  disappointment  to  the  beholder,  but  the 
works  of  the  Divine  Architect  never!  In  the  early  morning  a  ca- 
pricious veil  of  mist  almost  obscured  the  sun,  but  now  and  then  its 
genial  rays  pushed  through  this  curtain,  disclosing  a  towering  moun- 
tain peak,  crowned  with  a  gorgeous  rainbow.  Instantly  upon  an 
opposite  height  appeared  a  mellow  neutral-tinted  bow,  bending  like  a 
"  triumphal  arch "  over  mountain  and  plain  carpeted  with  tender 
verdure. 

"— Faithful  to  its  sacrt-d  page, 
Heaven  still  rebuilds  thy  span, 
Nor  lets  the  type  grow  pale  with  age, 
That  lirst  spoke  peace  to  man." 

The  rainbow  tints  upon  the  mountains  were  reflected  in  the  val- 
ley, in  the   characteristic  and  peculiar  dress  of  the  hundreds  of  busy 


142  FACE     TO    FACE    Willi    THE    MEXICANS. 

workers,  mostly  Indians,  far  below  us  assorting  ores.  Red  and  plaid 
serapcs,  more  than  rainbow-hued,  were  tossed  carelessly,  but  with 
artistic  effect,  upon  the  shoulders  of  the  men,  while  countless  women 
and  children  with  gay  skirts,  naked  feet,  blue  rclwaos,  jetty  hair 
either  flowing  or  in  plaits,  moved  about  with  unstudied  grace. 
Nature,  too,  contributed  her  fairest  to  the  scene.  As  we  whirled 
around  the  dizzy  height,  the  train,  forming  loop  after  loop,  as  we 
headed  the  frightful  barrancas,  and  circled  among  the  clouds,  we  saw 
sparkling  waters  leaping  and  dashing  from  high  summits  ;  then  the 
gladdening  view,  when  we  had  gone  higher  than  the  clouds,  and 
beheld  a  sky  more  blue  than  Italy  ever  boasted  !  Finally,  the  salient 
point  of  every  rustic  scene,  the  lavendaras,\\\\.\\\\\m  flowing  black  hair 
and  red  petticoats,  washing  along  the  mountain  streams,  filled  the 
landscape  with  peasant  life  and  homely  color.  Our  spiral  windings 
around  this  mountain  can  be  compared  to  nothing  less  than  a  revolv- 
ing panorama,  in  which  both  the  object  and  spectator  moved.  Once 
seen  it  is  never  forgotten. 

Thirty  miles  southwest  of  Zacatecas,  at  Ouemada,  are  interesting 
ruins,  supposed  to  mark  one  of  the  resting  places  of  the  Aztecs  in 
their  march  to  the  valley  of  Mexico.  A  citadel  is  in  the  center  of  a 
walled  inclosure  containing  about  si.x  acres,  with  still  an  outer  wall 
of  unhewn  stone,  eight  feet  thick  and  eighteen  feet  high.  Several 
pyramids  and  immense  pillars  are  also  within  the  inclosure. 

Aguas  Calientes  ("Hot  Waters")  derives  its  name  from  the 
medicinal  springs  in  its  vicinity.  The  waters  are  extremely  efifica- 
cious  in  rheumatism  and  skin  diseases.  For  centuries  people  have 
resorted  to  them,  and  still  their  virtues  are  undiminished. 

There  are  two  sets  of  bath-houses  -the  old,  in  the  town,  to  which 
the  water  is  conveyed  in  conduits;  the  new,  a  half-mile  distant  at  the 
springs.  Street-cars  run  out  to  them  through  an  avenue  of  cotton- 
wood  trees,  extending  along  an  accquia  (ditch)  which  carries  awa)' 
the  waste  waters  from  the  springs. 

The  common  people  avail  themselves  of  the  open  accquia,  to 
freely   indulge   in    the   customary  luxurj'  of    the   bath.     A   fine    \iew 


FROM  BORDER    TO    CAPITAL   ALONG    THE   MEXICAN   CENTRAL.    I43 


was  obtained  of  this  interesting  pastime,  as  we  halted  for  dinner  at 
the  station.  They  plunged  and  leaped  wildly  in  the  rushing  waters 
— men  pulling  women  headlong — their  hair  white  with  soap,  recalling 
a  pet  poodle — and  vice  versa — children  screaming,  dogs  barking — the 
sides  of  the  ditches  closely  lined  by  people  of  the  same  class,  in  full 
enjoyment  of  the  scene. 

Aguas  Calientes   is  distant  about   seventy-five   miles  from  Zacatc- 


THE   NATIONAL    PALACE   AT  AGUAS   CALIENTES, 


cas,  and  was  founded  in  1575  on  a  grant  made  by  Philip  II.  of  Spain, 
with  a  view  to  rendering  the  country  safe  for  travelers  to  and  from  the 
mining  regions.  The  grant  extended  five  leagues  on  all  sides  from 
the  first  chapel  erected.  This  was  a  small  adobe  building  on  the 
site  of  the  church  of  San  Diego,  an  ancient  edifice  with  a  convent 
adjoining,  which  is  now  converted  into  a  scientific  and  literary  insti- 
tute. 


144  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

Under  the  streets  it  is  said  that  extensive  ruins  exist,  the  origin 
of  which  is  lost  in  the  mists  of  antiquity,  no  mention  of  them  being 
made  in  the  traditions  of  either  Toltcc  or  Aztec.  They  probably 
date  back  to  a  period  before  the  coming  of  these  races,  and  may  even 
belong  to  the  civilization  which  left  the  famous  ruins  of  Uxmal  and 
Palenque  in  Yucatan. 

The  city — six  thousand  feet  above  sea  level — has  a  population  of 
forty  thousand  ;  streets  well  paved  and  swept,  and  an  excellent  manu- 
facturing interest  in  woolens  of  fine  quality. 

The  State  of  Aguas  Calientes  was  originally  a  part  of  Nueva  Galicia, 
but  in  1835  was  created  into  a  separate  State.  It  has  a  delightful 
climate,  is  a  fine  farming  country,  and  has  a  great  variety  of  delicious 
fruits,  both  temperate  and  tropical. 

As  we  move  onward,  the  picturesque  life  of  the  country  stands 
forth  in  inimitable  representation  at  every  station,  large  or  small. 
Groups  of  horsemen,  with  gay  blankets,  bright  silken  sashes,  and  broad 
hats  adorned  with  silver,  curvet  around  on  their  high-mettled  steeds, 
unconscious  of  the  host  of  beggars  who  solicit  alms  from  the  passen- 
gers. A  little  removed  are  carriages  containing  dark-eyed,  ravcn- 
tressed  sefloritas,  with  all  the  accompaniments  of  wealth  and  fashion, 
leaning  idly  back,  and,  like  the  rest  of  the  crowd,  waiting  to  see  the 
cars.  Thus  "  the  rich  and  the  poor  are  met  together" — poverty  in  its 
most  abject  form  stands  side  by  side  with  the  highest  development 
of  Aztec  civilization. 

At  Aguas  Calientes  the  great  Central  branches  off  towards  San 
Luis  Potosi,  ending  at  Tampico  on  the  Gulf,  a  distance  of  about  400 
miles.  Its  western  branch,  now  under  construction,  will  extend  from 
Irapunto  to  Guadalajara,  and  on  to  San  Bias  on  the  Pacific  coast. 
Commencing  at  the  extreme  northern  limit  of  the  republic,  and  ter- 
minating at  its  capital,  its  arms  stretching  from  gulf  to  ocean,  this  great 
iron  road  must  inevitably  remain  the  great  international  highway,  and 
prove  a  boon  to  Mexico,  developing  her  richest  resources,  and  inviting 
the  tourist  to  take  advantage  of  the  unrivaled  facilities  it  offers  in  the 
comforts    and    luxuries   of  modern    travel.       Its   steel    rails  and    iron 


FROM  BORDER    TO    CAPITAL   ALONG    THE   MEXICAN   CENTRAL.  I45 

bridges  and  every  convenience  and   appliance  for  safety  are    unsur- 
passed. 

Not  the  least  among  its  inducements  are  the  excellent  eating-houses 
on  the  line.  Here  the  traveler  may  feel  indeed  "  at  home,"  sur- 
rounded by  the  familiar  sights  and  sounds  and  dishes  of  his  native  land 
■ — not  omitting  the  inevitable  "  Twenty  minutes  for  refreshments  !  " 


THE    PUENTE    F.NCAKNACION. 


Boston  capitalists  are  to  be  commended  for  the  inception  and  ex- 
ecution of  this,  one  of  the  grandest  railway  schemes  on  the  continent. 
With  an  unstinted  expenditure  of  money  they  have  made  a  road  un- 
surpassed by  any  for  comfort  and  convenience,  and  display  an  enter- 
prise and  energy  worthy  of  the  spirit  of  New  England. 

And  that  lawless  element  which  so  often  finds  security  and  a  home 

in   isolated   districts,   difficult   of  access,   is  now,  owing  to  this  road, 
10 


14'3  FACE    TO  FACE    IVITJI   THE   MEXICANS. 

witliin  easy  range  of  military  rule.  Thus  it  was  that  the  backbone  of 
revolutionary  spirit  was  broken. 

At  Encarnacion  we  cross  the  longest  bridge  on  the  road,  a  marvel 
of  engineering  skill.  On  our  right  we  catch  glimpses  of  the  beautiful 
little  city  nestled  among  the  trees  whose  soft  green  foliage  is  bathed 
in  the  simultaneous  light  of  falling  rain  and  dazzling  sunshine. 

At  the  various  stations  we  partake  of  all  sorts  of  Mexican  dishes 
from  the  hands  of  unwashed  and  half-nude  venders,  but  the  inter- 
change of  familiar,  idiomatic  expressions,  and  their  evident  delight  at 
hearing  them  from  the  stranger,  equalize  many  differences. 

Great  plantations  of  cacti  are  laden  with  their  thorny  fruits,  and  as 
these  industrious  people  rapidly  peel  them,  the  passengers  enjoy  their 
delicious  flavor. 

Tempting  strawberries  in  pretty  baskets  are  purchased,  but,  sad 
to  relate,  they  prove  to  be  mostly  cabbage  leaves,  with  which  the 
basket  is  lined  until  there  is  only  room  for  a  few  dozen  berries. 

I  omitted  to  mention  the  Mapirmi  desert,  through  which  we  pass, 
some  four  hundred  miles  from  Chihuahua.  It  was  then  covered  with 
grass,  several  inches  in  height,  and  herds  of  sleek  cattle  browsed  about ; 
but  I  was  told  that  after  the  rainy  season  the  cattle  withdrew  to  bet- 
ter watered  localities,  and  the  birds,  also,  flew  away,  but  the  grass  still 
stood  dry.  and  motionless  on  the  desolate  plain. 

Lagos,  a  city  of  perhaps  forty  thousand  inhabitants,  is  the  seat  of 
extensive  manufactures,  and  especially  important  as  the  central  sta- 
tion, whence  branch  lines  will  extend  to  the  famous  mining  cities  of 
San  Luis  Potosi  on  the  east  and  Guadalajara  on  the  west. 

The  largest  manufacturing  city  in  the  republic  is  Leon.  Its  popu- 
lation is  one  hundred  thousand,  and  the  principal  manufactures  are 
cottons  and  woolens,  hats,  boots  and  shoes,  and  cutlery. 

Silao  is  beautifully  situated  in  a  fertile  valley.  It  has  extensive 
mills,  and  is  the  junction  of  the  branch  line  to  Guanajuato,  that 
famous  city  nestling  in  the  mountains  full  of  patriotic  and  historic 
associations.  The  branch  extends  from  Silao  to  Marfil,  about  twelve 
miles;  and  three  miles  further,  up  a  steep  and  rugged  mountain,  the 


,,;:3pw^j-^^^7^.^ 


FHOM  BORDER    TO    CAPITAL   ALONG    1 ILE   MEXICAN   CENTRAL.  I49 

tram  connects  with  the  city.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly  engaged  in 
silver  mining. 

Passing  Irapuato,  Salamanca,  and  Celaya,  we  come  to  Querctaro — 
capital  of  the  State  of  that  name — a  beautiful  and  interesting  city — ■ 
familiar  to  all  as  the  place  where  Maximilian,  Miramon,  and  Mejia 
were  executed.     The  place  is  marked  by  three  crosses. 

Along  the  line  of  the  railway,  as  elsewhere,  many  memorial  crosses 
may  be  seen.  Sometimes  they  mark  the  scene  of  deadly  combat,  and 
again,  point  the  traveler  to   the   spot   where  a  murder  has  been   com- 


WATER-CARRIER    OF   QUERETARO. 


mitted,  and  ask  the  prayers  of  the  faithful  for  the  repose  of  tlie  soul 
thus  violently  launched  into  eternity  without  the  last  rites  of  the 
Church.  The  piles  of  stones  about  the  crosses  represent  the  petitions 
that  have  been  offered  up,  and,  judging  from  the  heaps  we  saw,  the 
mute  appeal  must  be  seldom  disregarded. 

San  Juan  del  Rio  is  reached,  and  we  ascend  from  its  lovely  and 
picturesque  valley  and  along  the  elevated  region  to  Marquez.  We 
then  descend  into  the  beautiful  Tula  Valley,  with  its  varied  scenery 
and  tropical  growths.  Every  village  has  its  history,  with  traditions 
older  still. 

Our  reflections  are  broken  and  we  are  warned  of   the  approaching 


15°  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH   THE  MEXICANS. 

end  of  the  journey  b)-  the  announcement  that  we  are  nearhig  the 
great  Nochistongo  Fass  Originally  this  was  a  tunnel,  but  now  it  has 
more  the  appearance  of  a  vast  chasm  rent  in  the  earth  by  a  mighty 
volcanic  upheaval.  The  railway  is  constructed  upon  its  very  border, 
and  often  it  seems  as  if  the  train  would  leap  across  this  yawning  aper- 
ture. Two  centuries  of  time,  and  millions  of  dollars,  were  expended 
upon  its  construction.  Beyond  all  doubt  it  was  one  of  the  most 
stupendous  hydraulic  enterprises  ever  undertaken  by  mortal  man. 
Under  the  Spanish  dominion  the  Aztec  system  of  dikes  was  done 
away  with,  and  in  1607,  the  scheme  of  draining  the  city  by  a  tunnel 
was  commenced.  The  tunnel  was  twenty-one  thousand  six  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  long,  but  it  fell  in,  and  consequently  the  whole  valley 
was  inundated.  The  Spaniards,  to  prevent  the  city  being  drowned 
out,  recommenced  the  laborious  task  on  the  Nochistongo,  converting 
it  into  an  open  channel,  four  miles  long.  This  great  trench  was 
completed  in  1739,  and  thousands  of  Indians  perished  in  the  work. 

As  it  now  stands,  the  Nochistongo  is  the  original  tunnel  with  the 
earth  removed  from  the  mountains,  making  an  open  channel  for  the 
water.  It  winds  through  the  mountains  with  a  slight  incline — a 
frightful  spectacle,  three  hundred  and  si.xtj'-two  feet  in  breadth,  about 
one  hundred  and  sixty-four  in  depth,  and  extends  twelve  and  a  half 
miles;  but,  though  centuries  have  elapsed,  it  is  still  unfinished. 

A  few  more  turns  of  the  road,  a  shrill  whistle,  a  general  move- 
ment on  the  part  of  the  passengers,  and  we  come  to  a  halt  in  the  hand- 
some depot  of  the  Mexican  Central.  Carriages  are  drawn  up  in  line, 
their  swarthy  Jehus  filling  the  air  with  their  peculiar  idioms.  In  one 
of  them  we  were  borne  along  through  grand  old  historic  streets  to  the 
Hotel  San  Carlos. 

Once  inside  its  massive  doors  the  visitor  finds  himself  initiated 
into  still  stranger  ''costumbrcs."  He  is  registered  by  the  adininistrador 
(manager),  and  is  then  consigned  to  the  camarista  (a  male  chamber- 
maid), and  together  they  toil  up  one  flight  of  stairs  to  where  the  mas- 
ter of  keys  and  letter-boxes — a  pure  Indian — gracefully  performs 
his  part  of  the  business.      Glance  downward  over  your   shoulder  and 


FROM   BORDER    TO    CAPITAL    ALONG    THE   MEXICAN   CENTRAL. 


you  will  see  your  name  enrolled  on  an  enormous  blackboard,  from 
which  any  visitor  may  read  your  arrival  without  the  trouble  of  investi- 
gating the  register  or  questioning  the  administrador. 

We  found  ourselves  at  last  upon  the  third  corridor,  No.  54,  in  a 
grand  old  room  with  a  fine  view  from  the  front  window  of  the 
bustling  Calle  delColiseo  below,  while  through  the  door  opening  upon 
the  inner  galleries  an  enchanting  prospect  is  afforded  of  a  court  filled 
with  gorgeous  flowers  and  tropical  plants  flooded  with  silvery  sun- 
shine. 

The  cauiarista  manifested  his  pleasure  in  serving  me  and  in  due 
form  of  courtesy  introduced  himself  as  Pomposo  Vazques,  " Elscriado 
de  V."  ("  Your  obedient  servant  ").  On  entering  the  room,  he  directed 
attention  to  the  placard  of  printed  rules  and  to  the  bell — insisting  that 
he  should  be  called  at  any  time.  In  the  evening  a  gentle  tap  at  the 
door,  to  which  I  responded,  showed  me  the  full-length  figure  of  Pom- 
poso, in  all  his  dignity.  He  wished  to  know  if  I  needed  anything,  on 
which  I  asked  for  matches.  With  arms  pinioned  to  his  sides,  hands 
thrown  upward  above  his  shoulders,  digits  outspread,  with  eyes  seri- 
ous, mouth  drawn  to  one  side  and  head  shaking  ominously,  he  in- 
formed me  :  "/in  cste  Jiotcl  sicnipre  faltan  cerillos y  jabon  !  "  ("  In  this 
liotel  we  never  furnish  matches  and  soap  ").  After  this  speech  he 
moved  backward  step  by  step,  like  a  grand  chamberlain  retiring  from 
the  presence  of  royalty,  until  his  grotesque  figure  reached  the  door- 
way and  disappeared  in  the  corridor. 

About  nine  o'clock  I  heard  an  awful  rumbling  and  shaking  of  the 
building,  as  if  the  whole  structure  was  toppling  over.  No  solution 
came  that  night,  but  next  morning 
when  Pomposo  came  on  his  rounds,  I 
ascertained  that  it  was  the  mozo  roll- 
ing his  strangel}'  constructed  bed  to 
the  front  door,  where,  snugly  en- 
sconced, he  could,  at  a  moment's  no- 
tice, admit  a  lodger  or  ward  off  an  in- 
truder. 


THE    "  HOME.  SWEET  HOME       OF   THE    MOZO    CI' 
SAN  CARLOS. 


154 


FACE    TO   I-ACE    WITH    'J HE    MEXICANS. 


Before  entering  on  my  more  serious  labors,  1  recall  an  amusing 
incident  in  which  Pomposo  figures  as  principal.  Like  all  the  other 
hotels  at  the  capital,  the  San  Carlos  is  kept  on  the  European  plan, 
which  made  it  necessary  for  guests  to  pass  through  an  open  pntio  to 
the  restaurant.  On  one  occasion,  when  going  down  to  dinner,  I  en- 
countered Pomposo  at  the  head  of  the  stairway.  He  came  rapidly 
toward  me,  flourishing  his  arms,  as  if  the  house  were  on  fire  or  Popo- 
catapetl  had  made  a  fresh  outbreak,  and  almost  out  of  breath,  ex- 
claimed: "Porfirio!     Porfirio  !    Porfirio  !  " 

"Who  is  Porfirio?  and  what  is  the  matter?"   I  asked.    Completely 

overcome,  he  sat  down,  and,  not 
comprehending  my  lack  of  under- 
standing, continued  breathlessly: 
"  In  the  grand  dining-room  down 
stairs,  Porfirio  has  sixteen  friends  ; 
they  are  eating  ;  hush  !  Do  you 
not  hear  the  music  ?  "  I  still  asked 
to  be  enlightened  as  to  the  au- 
gust Porfirio,  whose  name  had 
cast  a  spell  on   Pomposo. 

"  Do  you  not  know  General 
Porfirio  Diaz,  our  President?"  And  without  waiting  for  an  answer, 
added,  ''  Don't  go  down  till  later,  por  Dios  Santo  !  " 


"  WE    NEVER    FURNISH    SOAP    AND    MATCHES   IN 
THIS    HOTEI-." 


CHAPTER   VI. 


TENOCHTITLAN — THE    AZTEC    CAPITAL. 


MONG  the  many  nortlicrn  tribes 
which  invaded  the  lovely  valley  of 
Anahuac  in  the  twelfth  century  were 
the  Aztecs  or  Mexicans.  After  lead- 
ing a  nomadic  life  for  more  than  a 
century — weary  from  their  wander- 
ings— they  rested  on  the  borders  of 
Lake  Tezcuco.  The  remarkable  rev- 
elation of  an  eagle  with  outspread 
wings,  standing  upon  a  fiiiial  (hat 
grew  from  a  fissure  in  a  rock  on  the 
water's  edge,  holding  in  his  talons  a 
serpent,  impressed  them  as  a  favorable  omen  of  future  sovereignty, 
and  indicated  this  spot  as  a  permanent  abiding  place.  At  once  they 
began  preparations  for  building  their  city.  Upon  a  slender  foundation 
of  reeds,  rushes,  and  piles  in  the  spongy  marshes  of  Tezcuco  the 
Aztecs  built  their  huts,  to  be  replaced  in  time  by  the  solid  structures 
which  adorned  the  city  at  the  coming  of  the  Spaniards.  This  was  the 
beginning  of  Towchtitlan  ("cactus  on  a  stone"),  named  in  honor  of 
its  supernatural  origin — the  capital  of  the  most  powerful  empire  of 
the  Western  world.  To-day  the  hoary  superstition  is  sacredl)-  em- 
bodied as  the  national  emblem  on  the  escutcheon  of  Mexico. 

From  these  humble  beginnings,  by  subjugations  of  the  weak  and 
alliances  with  the  strong,  this  Indian  empire  extended  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  and  from  unknown  limits  on  the  north  to  tlie 
Gulf. 

This  city  was  the  great  center  of  government,  law,  and  religion  to 


156  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH   THE    MEXICANS. 

this  vast  sovereignty,  and  had  a  population  about  the  same  as  to-day. 
The  wondrous  tale  of  its  wealth  and  grandeur  and  imposing  magnifi- 
cence has  been  often  told  ;  also  how  it  was  razed  to  the  ground  by  the 
conquerors,  and  its  canals  filled  with  the  debris  of  temple  and  palace. 
It  was  then  rebuilt,  and  rose  from  its  ashes  exceeding  its  original  splen- 
dor; and  to-day — having  withstood  sieges,  and  witnessed  the  rise  and 
fall  of  rulers,  from  the  Spanish  viceroys  to  the  Habsburg — it  stands  in 
unrivaled  beauty,  the  capital  of  the  Mexican  Republic. 

Wonderful  impressions  present  themselves  to  a  thoughtful  mind 
on  entering  for  the  first  time  this  great  metropolis,  where  every  foot 
of  ground  is  historic — the  Rome  of  America,  once  the  Venice.  At 
the  time  of  the  conquest,  in  15 19,  every  street  was  a  canal,  thronged 
with  Indians,  peculiarly  attired,  paddling  along  in  their  canoes,  con- 
ducting the  entire  commercial  and  agricultural  business  of  the  valley  of 
Anahuac  !  "  How  gay  and  picturesque  must  have  been  the  aspect  of 
the  lake  in  those  days,"  says  Prescott,  "  with  its  shining  cities  and 
flowering  islets  rocking,  as  it  were  at  anchor,  on  the  fair  bosom  of  its 
waters  !  " 

The  ancient  city  had  then  three  distinct  avenues  or  causeways  which 
connected  it  with  the  mainland,  and  to  which  is  attached  much  his- 
toric interest. 

The  Spaniards  first  entered  tiie  city  at  its  southern  extremity  by 
the  causeway  of  Iztapalapan.  The  Tepeyac  is  on  the  northern  boun- 
dary, and  is  connected  with  the  first-mentioned  causeway  by  a  long 
street.  It  was  on  the  hill  Tepeyac  that  the  Virgin  Guadalupe  ap- 
peared to  Juan  Diego.  Owing  to  this,  Tepeyac  is  also  known  as 
Guadalupe.  It  is  three  miles  from  the  city.  The  third  causeway, 
TIacopan,  is  quite  as  memorably  historic.  The  Calle  de  Tacuba  is  the 
ancient  causewa)'  of  TIacopan.  It  was  here  that  the  Spaniards  were 
defeated  by  the  Aztecs,  and,  as  is  related  by  all  historians,  here  also 
Pedro  Alvarado  made  his  famous  leap,  on  the  terrible  night  of  July  i, 
1520 — the  Nochc  Tristc.  It  must  have  been  indeed  a  night  of  sorrow 
for  the  conquerors.  A  pitiless  rain  ]ioured  down  upon  the  invaders. 
Neither  starlight  nor  moonlight  lent  their  gentle  radiance  to  a  scene 


TENOCHTIlLAN—rilE    AZ7 EC   CAPITAL.  1 57 

SO  terrible.  But  to  remain  at  that  point  was  not  possible;  accordingly 
one  of  Cortcz's  most  faithful  soldiers,  Sandoval,  led  the  now  dis- 
mayed Spaniards.  Forty  men  carried  a  wooden  bridge,  by  which 
the  troops  might  cross  the  ditches  and  canals,  otherwise  impassable. 

All  crossed  safely  ;  the  sentinels  on  duty  were  easily  silenced,  but 
the  ever-wakeful  priests  in  the  temple,  also  on  watch,  were  attracted 
by  the  unusual  noise. 

Instantly  the  cry  "To  arms!"  was  raised,  the  trumpets  were 
sounded,  and  the  inhabitants  aroused  from  their  peaceful  slumbers. 
By  the  time  the  Spaniards  had  reached  the  second  canal,  they  were 
entirely  surrounded  by  water,  and  the  groans  of  the  dead  and  dying 
mingled  strangely  with  the  beating  of  the  rain  and  the  fury  of  the 
wind.  The  third  canal  was  reached,  but  in  attempting  to  cross,  the 
few  remaining  soldiers  were  killed,  and  Alvarado  the  fearless  was  left 
alone. 

Resting  his  lance  in  the  bottom  of  the  canal,  he  gave  a  spring  and 
was  landed  safely  on  the  opposite  bank. 

When  the  Indians  beheld  this  feat,  they  ate  handful  after  handful 
of  dirt,  and  exclaimed  :  "  Truly  this  man  is  the  offspring  of  the  sun  !  " 
Since  that  time  the  place  has  borne  the  name  of  "  El  Salto  etc 
Alvarado."* 

At  Popotla,  somewhat  over  two  miles  from  the  capital,  still  stands 
in  reasonable  preservation  the  celebrated  "Arbol  de  la  Nochc  Tristc" 
("  Tree  of  the  Sad  Night  "),  against  which  Cortez  leant  and  wept  on  the 
night  of  his  defeat  by  the  Aztecs. 

Only  a  short  distance  beyond  Popotla  is  Atzcapotzalco.  In  Aztec 
days  this  town  was  their  great  slave  market,  and  on  each  recurring 
sale-day  the  Indian  maidens  were  decked  out  in  all  their  bewitching 
adornments  to  dance  and  sing,  in  order  to  please  those  who  might  be- 
come purchasers. 

The  city  of  Mexico,  which  stands  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  city,  is 
one  of  the  finest  and  best  built  cities  on  the  continent.    The  architecture 

*  Bernal  Diaz  discredits  as  impossible  this  exploit. 


158  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

is  grand  and  massive  rather  than  diversified  and  ornate.  The  monot- 
ony of  sohd  walls  and  high-arched  portals  at  first  strikes  the  stranger 
with  a  feeling  akin  to  disappointment,  but  familiarity  brings  only  a 
deeper  consciousness  of  the  grandeur  of  the  whole.  A  singular  and 
impressive  feature  is  the  fact  that  not  only  is  the  site  that  of  the 
ancient  Aztec  capital,  but  the  general  style  of  the  buildings  remains 
the  same.  The  flat  roof,  the  asotca,  the  square  surrounding  the  patio, 
all  belong  to  the  past  as  to  the  present. 

The  Plaza  Mayor,  or  Zdcalo,  is  said  to  be  unequaled  anywhere. 
One  entire  side  is  covered  by  the  cathedral,  which  occupies  the  site  of 
the  temple  of  the  Aztec  war-god.  The  National  Palace,  formerly  the 
residence  of  the  vicero\s,  covers  another  side,  and  stands  on  the  ver- 
itable site  of  the  Halls  of  the  Montezumas.  The  other  two  sides  are 
occupied  by  the  shady  portals. 

The  great  causewa)'s  are  still  in  use  as  leading  highways,  and  the 
streets  are  laid  out  in  symmetrical  lines,  running  at  right  angles — north 
and  south,  east  and  west.  Each  side  of  a  block  has  its  individual 
name,  but  often  the  same  is  applied  to  three  or  four  squares  consecu- 
tively— as  the  three  San  Franciscos,  the  two  Calles  Plateros,  "  streets 
of  the  silversmiths,"  and  the  first,  second,  third,  and  fourth  Providen- 
cias.  A  narrow  street  is  called  a  callcjon.  An  effort  has  recently  been 
made  to  change  this  puzzling  method  by  giving  the  same  name  to  a 
street  throughout  its  entire  length. 

I  was  much  interested  in  the  tradition  of  the  "  Calk  del  India 
Tristc  "  ("  Street  of  the  Sad  Indian  ").  A  wealthy  Indian  cacique 
established  his  home  there,  and  then  became  a  spy  upon  his  own 
tribe,  steadily  informing  the  viceroy  of  all  their  plans  and  intentions. 
He  failed  from  some  cause  to  make  known  to  the  latter  a  mutiny 
w  hich  was  in  process  of  execution.  This  gave  the  viceroy  a  pretext 
for  the  confiscation  of  his  property.  Poor  and  despised  by  his  own 
people  and  held  in  contempt  by  the  Spaniards,  he  took  his  seat  on 
the  corner  of  the  street,  weeping  and  distressed,  refusing  food  or 
comfort,  and  finally,  in  this  melancholy  attitude,  he  breathed  his 
last.      His  property  passed  to  the  crown,  and  with  a  view  to  teaching 


TENOCHTITLAN—THE   AZTEC  CAPITAL.  i6l 

the  Indians  a  lesson,  the  viceroy  had  erected  the  statue  of  an  Indian 
weeping,  in  the  same  attitude  as  the  real  one,  sitting  with  his  back  to 
the  wall,  which  remained  there  until  the  house  was  demolished,  when 
the  statue  was  sent  to  the  museum.  But  the  street  did  not  change 
its  name. 

The  street-car  system  is  admirable.  First  and  second-class  cars 
are  yellow  and  green,  and  every  ten,  fifteen,  thirty,  or  sixty  minutes 
they  leave  the  Z6calo  all  in  a  line,  one  after  another,  on  their  rounds, 
some  of  which  include  a  radius  of  from  ten  to  twenty  miles. 

Every  moment  in  the  day  the  ear  is  regaled  with  the  unmelodi- 
ous  tooting  of  a  cow's  horn  in  the  hands  of  the  car  driver.  These 
men  manage  to  extract  more  muscular  exertion  from  their  innlas  \\\dA-\ 
ever  did  a  hard-hearted  Sambo. 

As  the  street-car  lines  have  their  second  and  third-class  lines,  with 
prices  to  correspond,  so  also  is  the  cab  system  regulated. 

The  distinction  in  prices  is  indicated  by  flags.  Carriages  bearing 
a  blue  flag  are  first  class,  and  may  be  had  for  $i.oo  an  hour,  while  a 
red  flag  is  second  class  and  costs  75  cents  ;  a  white  flag  shows  a  third- 
class  coach,  price  50  cents  an  hour.  No  deviation  from  these  rules 
is  allowed  save  on  feast-days.  But  as  those  who  dance  must  pay  the 
piper,  so,  also,  he  who  rides  in  a  Mexican  cab  must  pay  the  driver 
his  fee  of  a  medio  for  \i\s  pulque. 

One  great  convenience  in  these  cabs  is  a  cord  which  is  worn  on 
the  arm  of  the  driver,  one  end  being  in  the  carriage,  so  that  the 
passenger  may  at  any  time  call  an  instantaneous  halt  without  e.x- 
hausting  his  lungs. 

The  iron-handed  law  at  the  Federal  capital  is  unrelenting  toward 
cabmen,  and  as  the  rates  are  posted  in  each  vehicle  and  the  drivers 
are  all  numbered,  there  is  no  necessity  for  an  over-charge.  Ameri- 
cans, with  their  profligacy  in  small  change,  are  the  most  easily  im- 
posed upon,  but  if  they  make  complaint  the  abuse  is  at  once  cor- 
rected, and  the  driver  stands  a  chance  of  losing  his  position. 

There  is  no  fire  department  to  speak  of:  as  the  buildings  are 
either  of  stone  or  some  other  fire-proof  substance,  a  conflagration  is 


1 62 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


of  rare  occurrence,  and  is  a  notable  event  of  an  ordinary  life-time. 
There  is  but  one  fire-engine  in  tlie  city,  and  perhaps  in  the  republic, 
counting  upon  its  venerable  cogs  and  wheels  at  least  forty  summers. 

Another  machine,  equally  primitive,  is  the  only  water-sprinkler. 
Its  operations  are  chiefly  confined  to  the  Paseo ;  but  it  has  many 
sturdy  competitors  in  the  mozos  in  white  who  throw  bucketful  after 
bucketful  of  water  before  their  masters'  doors. 

No  city  is  more  peaceful  after  night-fall.  Pulque  shops,  by  order 
of  the  government,  close  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  are  opened 


7'- 


THE    NEW   AND   THE   OLD. 


at  the  same  hour  in  the  morning.  The  city  is  so  well  patrolled  that 
one  may  perambulate  the  streets  at  any  hour  of  the  night  without 
fear  of  encountering  rudeness.  Little  or  no  drunkenness  is  seen, 
though  more  than  250,000  pints  of  the  beverage  are  daily  consumed. 
The  imbibers  go  at  once  to  their  homes,  there  to  sleep  off  the  effects 
of  their  indulgence. 

The  city   lies   in   the  lowest  part  of  the   valley  of  Mexico,  like  a 
deep-set  jewel.      From  its  location,  and   other  unexplained  causes,  it 


TENOCIIT/TLAN—'JHE   AZTEC  CAPITAL.  163 

has  several  times  been  visited  with  frightful  inundations,  which  have 
threatened  to  wash  it  from  the  earth.  Of  these  the  most  wonderful 
was  known  as  the  "  Fountain  of  Acucasexcatl,"  which  sprang  spon- 
taneously from  the  ground  during  the  reign  of  Ahuizotl.  Another 
was  the  "  Torrent,"  which,  like  the  fountain,  spread  over  the  valley 
in  the  lowest  places  to  the  depth  of  about  nine  feet  of  water  on  the 
ordinary  level.  The  death  rate  from  drowning  and  disease,  superin- 
duced by  the  long-standing  water,  was  terrible. 

The  chief  cause  of  these  inundations  is  believed  to  be  the  pro.x- 
imity  of  the  lakes,  which  lie  at  unequal  heights  around  the  city. 
When  the  summer  rains  filled  the  highest.  Lake  Zumpango,  it  would 
overflow  into  the  next.  Lake  of  San  Cristobal,  and  when  that  was  full 
it  in  turn  disgorged  into  a  lower  one,  Texcoco,  and  so  on  until  the 
waters  overflowed  into  the  plains  of  San  Lazaro,  and  thence  pene- 
trated into  the  city.  There  is  no  danger  from  lakes  Xochimilco  and 
Chalco  except  in  case  of  melting  snows  from  Popocatapetl. 

Seven  times  within  the  knowledge  of  man  the  city  of  Mexico  has 
been  inundated.  Four  times  the  calamitous  visitation  came  in  one 
century,  twice  in  a  brief  interval  of  only  three  years  ;  the  latest 
occurred  in  1629. 

The  finest  engineering  talent  in  the  republic  has  been  called  into 
requisition  to  devise  a  system  of  drainage,  but  a  wide  difference  of 
opinion  as  to  the  best  means  still  prevails.  Some  favor  a  tunnel,  but 
as  the  soil  is  spongy  and  treacherous,  there  could  be  no  guarantee 
against  its  sinking.  This,  together  with  the  prospect  at  any  time  of 
an  earthquake,  forbids  the  plan.  Others  recommend  the  extension 
of  the  Nochistongo,  which  is  now  utilized,  and  is  partially  effective. 

Several  engineering  companies  from  our  northern  States  have 
attempted  to  investigate  the  gigantic  and  dangerous  task  of  draining 
the  city,  and  if  the  problem  be  finally  solved  it  will  probably  be  by 
means  of  Yankee  ingenuity  and  machinery. 

When  the  great  earthquake  of  1882  visited  the  capital,  it  is 
claimed  that  the  nearness  of  the  water  to  the  surface  of  the  earth 
saved  it   from  destruction.     The  opinion  prevails  amongst   intelligent 


164  FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICAXS. 

people  that  a  thorough  drainage  of  the  city  would  increase  the  danger 
from  this  source. 

The  foundations  of  a  large  proportion  of  the  houses  are  laid  either 
in  water  or  in  marshy  flats;  and  I  have  often  seen  a  loaded  wagon, 
carriage,  or  cart  perceptibly  shake  a  two-story  house.  The  School  of 
Mines,  a  massive  and  immense  structure,  has  sunk  more  than  six  feet 
in  the  earth  within  forty  years,  so  I  was  informed  by  Professor  Cos- 
tiUo,  of  that  institution. 

Mexico  has  been  termed  the  Rome  of  America,  not  only  because 
of  its  temples  and  palaces,  but  also  on  account  of  its  churches  and 
other  ecclesiastical  buildings  ;  but  many  of  the  latter  are  alienated 
from  their  original  use,  while  of  the  one  hundred  church  buildings, 
only  half  this  number  are  now  devoted  to  religious  services.  The 
grand  Gothic  cathedral  rises  majestically  above  all  surrounding  ob- 
jects, the  most  conspicuous  feature  in  the  architecture  of  the  metrop- 
olis. It  is  built  of  unhewn  stone,  and  is  five  hundred  feet  in  length  by 
four  hundred  and  twenty  in  width.  The  walls  are  several  feet  in  thick- 
ness. This  great  building  was  completed  in  1667,  nearly  one  hundred 
years  after  its  foundation,  at  a  cost  of  two  million  dollars.  Its  exte- 
rior is  majestic  and  imposing,  and  the  interior  gorgeously  painted  and 
decorated,  its  altars  enriched  with  gold,  silver,  and  jewels. 

But  with  all  its  grandeur  the  cathedral  is  anything  but  a  choice 
place  for  devotional  exercises.  True  democracy  is  the  rule,  and  the 
most  degraded,  unclean  lepero  has  as  much  space  allotted  to  him  as  the 
grandest  lady  or  gentleman.  This  is  undo\ibtedly  the  true  spirit  and 
intent  of  Christianity,  but  one  cannot  help  being  a  little  fastidious.  I 
have  seen  men  most  earnestly  engaged  in  their  devotions,  with  dozens 
of  chickens,  and  as  many  turkeys  as  they  could  carry,  suspended  from 
their  persons  ;  women  with  burro  loads  of  vegetables  on  their  shoul- 
ders, others  with  one  or  two  pappooses  screaming  and  wiggling  in  their 
mothers'  rebosos,  all   in  such  numbers  as  to  forbid  pious  meditations. 

Skirting  the  west  side  of  the  cathedral  is  a  shady  garden  with 
fountains  and  seats,  terminating  in  a  most  unique  and  choice  flower 
market.     At  the  corner,  facing  the  Z6calo,  there  is  a  heap  of  curiously 


TENOCHTITLAN—rUh    AZTEC    CAFITAL.  165 

carved  stones  and  broken  columns,  and,  pushing  aside  the  gorgeous 
screen  of  flowers  and  vines,  the  inscription  may  be  read  :  "  Stones 
from  the  bloody  sacrificial  altar  of  Huitzilopotztli,  used  afterward  in 
the  first  temple  that  the  Spaniards  erected   to  the  Christian  faith." 

The  church  of  Santa  Brigida  (St.  Bridget's)  is  the  most  modern  in 
its  interior  arrangements,  having  comfortable  pews  and  carpeted  aisles. 
But  Santa  Teresa,  with  its  exquisitely  painted  interior;  San  Hipolito, 
with  the  exterior  of  its  dome  of  glittering  porcelain  mosaic;  and  grand 
old  San  Fernando,  with  illustrious  memories  and  associations,  whose 
time-worn  floors  have  echoed  the  footsteps  of  generations — these 
speak  volumes  in  their  silence  and  mellow  gloom. 

Of  public  monuments  and  statues  there  are  five — the  most  note- 
worthy that  of  Carlos  IV.  at  the  head  of  the  Paseo,  which,  with  the 
exception  of  that  of  Marcus  Aurelius  at  Rome,  is  perhaps  the  largest 
in  the  world.  It  was  cast  in  Mexico,  the  first  in  the  Western  hemi- 
sphere. The  statues  of  Christopher  Columbus,  President  Juarez,  and 
Cuatimotzin,  the  last  of  the  Aztec  kings,  are  all  marvels  of  beauty 
and  finish,  and  adorn  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma — the  grand  avenue  or 
boulevard  of  the  capital.  This  noble  drive  extends  about  three  miles 
from  the  Alameda  to  Chapultepec,  and  is  broad  enough  for  six 
carriages  to  drive  abreast.  But  usually  they  are  driven  in  line,  while 
the  gayly  equipped  caballcros  curvet  in  the  opposite  direction.  Police- 
men are  stationed  every  few  yards.  On  either  side  the  sidewalks  are 
lined  with  pedestrians,  in  their  "  Sunday  best  " — groups  of  beautifully 
dressed  children  indulge  in  childish  sports,  the  band  plays,  and  all 
Mexico  is  jubilant. 

There  are  five  public  markets.  The  principal  one  covers  an  entire 
block,  but,  despite  its  wealth  of  fruits,  vegetables,  game,  fish  and  meat,  is 
a  wretchedly  forlorn  place,  having  no  building,  but  merely  a  collection 
of  huts,  booths,  and  tents,  which  are  most  uninviting  to  the  stranger. 

The  public  gardens  number  twelve,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  Ala- 
meda, and  are  all  laid  out  in  truly  Parisian  style. 

Excellent  educational  facilities  are  afforded  at  the  capital.  Among 
them  are  the  School  of  Arts  and  Professions  for  Women,  Industrial 


l66  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

Schools  for  Men,  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  Conservatory  of  Music, 
School  of  Mines  or  Engineering,  School  of  Jurisprudence,  Military 
Institute,  Medical  Institute,  Commercial  College,  Girls'  College,  Pre- 
paratory Institute  for  Boys  (equal  to  one  of  our  best  colleges).  Deaf 
and  Dumb,  and  Blind  Institutes,  the  National  Museum,  and  a  superb 
Public  Library  with  one  hundred  and  sixty  thousand  volumes. 

For  the  National  Schools,  President  Diaz  has  prescribed  a  course 
of  study  for  seven  years  in  agriculture  and  engineering.  The  latter 
includes  French,  English,  German,  Greek  and  Latin  roots,  geography, 
drafting,  meteorology,  chemistry,  botany,  geology,  architecture,  agri- 
culture, technology,  surveying,  book-keeping,  and  political  economy. 
The  medical  course  also  covers  seven  years,  and  includes,  in  addition 
to  the  above,  all  the  branches  requisite  to  the  profession.  Thorough- 
ness is  required  in  everything,  no  diplomas  being  granted  without 
proficiency. 

I  visited  many  of  these  public  institutions  of  learning,  and  found 
them  admirably  conducted.  I  was  especially  interested  in  the  School 
for  the  Blind,  and  surprised  to  find  the  pupils  outnumber  the  teachers 
only  a  little  more  than  two  to  one — the  former  numbering  sixty-seven, 
the  latter  thirty-one.  The  salaries  of  teachers  range  from  twenty  to 
seventy  dollars  per  month.  On  entering  the  school  a  photograph  is 
taken  of  each  pupil  and  pasted  in  a  large  book.  By  its  side  is  placed 
a  full  description,  with  age,  date,  and  place  of  birth,  and  quantity  and 
quality  of  clothing.  The  object  of  the  photograph  is  to  prevent  a 
possible  substitution  of  one  for  another,  and  preserve  the  identity  of 
each  pupil. 

Musical  culture  is  the  leading  feature  here,  as  in  every  institution 
of  learning  in  the  country.  The  orchestra  played,  and  a  young  girl 
of  sixteen  sang  for  us,  in  a  rich,  mellow  contralto  which  filled  the 
building,  selections  from  //  Trovatorc.  Another  was  asked  by  her 
teacher  to  read  for  us.  She  began  in  a  clear  voice  reading  an  account 
of  the  entrance  of  General  Scott  into  the  city  of  Mexico.  When  she 
read  "  he  entered  sin  valor"  ("  without  courage  "),  the  teacher  gently 
interposed,  and  requested    her   to   read   in  another  place,  which    she 


TENOCIITJTLAN—THE    AZTEC    CAPITAL.  1 69 

did,  to  my  serious  disappointment,  for  I  was  anxious  to  know  in  wliat 
spirit  even  a  blind  Mexican  would  read  the  history  of  that  war. 

The  School  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  is  conducted  after  the  most 
modern  methods,  the  pupils  being  taught  articulation,  only  the  older 
ones  using  manual  signs.  Many  of  the  teachers  have  received  a  Eu- 
ropean education. 

The  noblest  institution  that  I  visited  was  the  ''  Esciicla  dc  Artes  y 
Oficios  para  las  Miijcrcs"  ("  School  of  Arts  and  Trades  for  Women  "), 
of  which  Juarez  was  the  founder  and  benefactor.  It  gives  to  poor  girls 
unequaled  advantages  for  learning,  without  fear  of  the  absence  of 
their  "  daily  bread,"  to  make  themselves  independent  of  want.  The 
government  gives  them  comfortable  rooms,  two  good  meals  a  day, 
and  furnishes  many  of  the  poorer  pupils  with  clothing.  Each  girl 
wears  a  long,  brown  holland  apron ;  their  faces  are  clean,  hair  neatly 
braided,  and  every  care  taken  that  they  may  make,  at  all  times,  a  neat 
appearance.  Several  hours  daily  are  devoted  to  the  acquirement  of  a 
practical  education.  Bookbinding,  printing,  book-keeping,  drawing, 
painting,  music,  embroidery  are  taught  ;  also  the  manufacture  of 
picture-frames,  and,  on  cunning  little  hand-looms,  cords  and  fringes  of 
all  colors  for  decorative  purposes.  The  pupils  upholster  skillfully  and 
artistically  furniture  that  would  adorn  a  mansion.  There  is  a  neat 
store  in  the  building,  belonging  to  the  institution,  in  which  the  work 
of  the  pupils  is  disposed  of  for  their  benefit.  They  conduct  a  neatly 
printed  weekly  newspaper,  consisting  of  four  sheets,  and  called  La 
Mtijcr. 

In  all  the  wise  concepts  of  her  Indian  chief,  Mexico  has  no  higher 
monument  to  his  greatness  than  this  industrial  school  for  the  eleva- 
tion of  her  women. 

There  are  three  hundred  and  sixty-eight  pupils  receiving  the  bene- 
fits of  this  institution,  from  misses  of  twelve  years  to  demure  matrons 
in  middle  life. 

The  public  schools  are  numerous  and  well  patronized.  I  was 
pleased  to  see  the  eagerness  with  which  the  pupils  seized  their  oppor- 
tunities for  gaining  knowledge.      My  American    friend,    Mrs.  C , 


I/O 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   AJ EX/CAN S. 


has  classes  in  English  in  several  of  these  institutions,  where  I  heard 
them  reciting  fluently  in  my  own  tongue.  It  is  estimated  that  fully 
eight  thousand  people  are  now  studying  English  at  the  capital. 

The  public  charitable  institutions  are  also  numerous,  and  include 
the  Insane  Asylum,  Foundling  Hospital,  House  of  Maternit}',  founded 
by  Carlotta  ;  Poor-House,  Leper  Institute,  and  several  hospitals. 

The  Monte  de  Picdad,  or  pawnshop,  founded  by  Count  Regla,  is 
one  of  the  noblest  benefactions,  enabling  those  whom  misfortune  has 
visited  to  realize  or  receive  advances  upon  valuables  without  the  risk 
of  losing  them.  These  pawnshops  e.xist  all  over  the  country,  and  all 
classes  can  alike  avail  themselves  of  their  advantages. 

The  city  has  four  large 
theaters,  the  National  being 
the  second  largest  on  the 
Western  continent,  but  its 
interior  furnishings  are  but  a 
mockery  in  this  age  of  ele- 
gance and  luxury.  Once  gor- 
geous in  their  rich  gildings 
and  fanciful  upholstery,  they 
now  appear  in  a  sad  state  of 
dilapidation.  There  are  many 
hotels,  all  kept  upon  the  Eu- 
ropean [ilan,  and  the  Con- 
cordia,  which    is   the    Dclmonico   of  the    capital. 

The  mercantile  establishments  do  not  generally  possess  in  their 
exterior  the  attractions  of  those  of  our  own  cities.  It  is  but  a  short 
time  since  a  few  of  the  leading  merchants  have  had  recourse  to  show- 
windows,  but  in  these  now  are  exhibited  the  choicest  wares  of  home 
and  foreign  production — exquisitely  set  diamonds,  rare  jewels  of  all 
kinds,  bronzes,  statuary  and  French  china.  Added  to  these  are  dis- 
played laces,  velvets,  silks,  and  Parisian  dresses,  and  an  endless  variety 
of  foreign  importations,  including  French  dolls,  the  prettiest  I  ever 
saw.     Once  inside  the  stores,  the  activity  and  agility  of  the  clerks,  in 


WATER-CARRIER  AT  THE  CAPITAL. 


TENOCHTITLAN—TllE   AZTEC   CAPITAL.  171 

their  eagerness  to  wait  upon  you,  are  equaled  only  by  their  lack  of 
system  and  business  management.  Be  sure,  however,  that  you  will 
have  an  opportunity  of  purchasing  some  of  the  rarest  and  most  costly 
dress  fabrics  upon  which  one's  eyes  ever  rested. 

The  Montcrilla,  the  stores  along  the  portales,  are  the  "  Sixth  Ave- 
nue "  of  the  capital.  The  same  classes  of  goods  are  kept  as  on  Pla- 
Icros.  and  for  a  much  less  price,  a  fact  which  holds  in  check  the 
charges  in  the  latter. 

I  saw  comparatively  few  of  our  American  dress  fabrics  in  any 
of  the  stores;  only  domestics,  prints,  and  goods  of  low  grade.  But 
there  is  no  question  in  my  mind  that  American  silks,  hats,  ribbons 
and  woolens,  as  well  as  almost  every  kind  of  ready-made  goods,  would 
find  a  profitable  market  if  only  properly  introduced.  The  portales  is 
the  place  of  all  others  to  buy  curios  of  every  possible  descrip- 
tion. 

A  few  practical  words  must  be  given  as  to  the  general  lives  of  the 
people  of  the  capital — the  method  of  house-renting,  and  the  forms  to 
be  complied  with  before  establishing  a  home  there.  Agencies  for 
the  leasing  and  renting  of  houses,  accompanied  by  our  modern  ad- 
vertising, are  unknown.  To  secure  a  house,  one  must  tramp  up  and 
down  the  streets  looking  for  pieces  of  paper  pinned  to  the  iron  rods 
of  the  windows.  On  finding  one  that  suits,  he  must  strain  his  neck 
out  of  the  socket  and  wear  out  his  shoes  searching  for  owner  or  agent. 
Then  he  must  procure  -a.  fiador — generally  a  merchant  or  man  of  busi- 
ness, who  will  act  as  security  and  assume  responsibility  in  case  of  a 
possible  delinquency.  The  contract  is  well  worthy  of  attention.  It 
is  almost  enveloped  in  stamps,  and  bulky  enough  for  a  treaty  be- 
tween foreign  nations.  After  much  delay  and  formality,  this  docu- 
ment is  duly  signed,  and  you  are  put  in  possession  of  your  new 
domicile. 

The  familiar  phrase,  that  "Three  moves  are  equal  to  a  fire,"  is 
here  emphasized.  One's  earthly  goods  must  be  carried  either  on  the 
backs  of  men  or  on  the  street-cars.  If  the  first  mode  of  transporta- 
tion be  resorted  to,  it  is  generally  necessary  to  dispatch  a  trusty  ser\'- 


172  FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

ant  of  the  household  with  each  load  of  goods,  lest  the  cargador  find 
it  convenient  to  take  his  departure,  with  your  valuables,  for  some 
unknown   localit}'. 

Houses  are  generally  constructed  on  the  viviciida  plan  ;  that  is,  on 
one  floor  there  may  be  from  four  to  six  establishments  containing 
from  two  to  six  or  eight  rooms.  But  such  smaller  conveniences  as 
closets  are  unknown. 

Rents  are  high  at  all  times,  and  in  desirable  localities  excessive. 
Inside  apartments,  with  five  rooms  facing  the  court,  rent  for  $40  per 
month  ;  of  the  same  size,  with  one  to  four  windows  opening  on  the 
street,  from  $60  to  $80,  according  to  location.  Houses  are,  generally,, 
two  and  three  stories  in  height,  and  the  higher  one  goes,  the  more 
rent  is  demanded.  For  health's  sake,  the  sunny  side  of  the  building 
is  absolutelj'  necessary — a  fact  considered  by  the  owner  in  his  assess- 
ment of  rents. 

Greater  attention  is  now  paid  than  formerly  to  the  plumbing,  ven- 
tilation and  general  sanitation  of  the  houses,  but  still  there  remains 
much  to  be  desired.  The  drainage  of  the  city  is  so  very  imperfect 
that  it  will  be  long,  if  ever,  before  the  houses  built  many  years  ago 
can  be  made  to  fulfill  modern  requirements. 

Many  well-to-do  families  occupy  apartments  over  business  houses, 
and  sometimes  over  ptdqiic  shops.  The  portero  may  be  either  a  man 
or  woman,  who  resides  with  his  or  her  family  in  a  little  dark,  damp 
apartment  under  the  stairs.  I  have  sometimes  counted  two  or  three 
turkeys,  several  chickens,  a  pig  or  two,  dogs  without  number,  and 
endless  children,  besides  all  the  cooking  and  sleeping  arrangements  of 
the  whole  family,  in  one  small  room.  When  you  ascend  the  stairs, 
the  transformation  is  complete.  Blooming  plants,  singing  birds, 
carpeted  halls  and  stairways,  curtained  windows  and  shaded  balconies 
afford  a  striking  contrast. 

I  wish  that  space  would  admit  of  an  extended  mention  of  the 
Mexican  flora,  the  variety  and  gorgeousness  of  which  must  be  seen  to 
be  appreciated.  The  most  striking  characteristic  of  the  Mexican 
flowers  is  their  deep,  rich  coloring.      If  red,  it  is  the  most  glowing  and 


EL  ARBOL  DE  LAS  MANITAS 

TREE    OF  THE  LITTLE   HANDS 


HATHOMAS  %WVCIC     LrTH 


TENOCHTITLAiV—THE   AZTEC   CAPITAL,  I75 

intense;  if  yellow  or  purple,  the  richest  ;  if  white  or  pink,  the  purest 
and  most  delicate. 

There  is  not  a  day  in  the  year  when  fresh  and  lovely  flowers  may 
not  be  purchased  for  a  mere  trifle — roses,  with  great  soft  petals  folded 
over  each  other,  vie  in  loveliness  with  pansies  as  large  as  a  dollar; 
calla  lilies,  the  size  of  a  fan,  bloom  luxuriant  in  every  ditch  ;  geraniums 
as  tall  as  a  man  ;  sweet  pea,  heliotropes,  camellias,  and  magnificent 
poppies,  so  enormous  that  one  will  cover  a  plate,  and  so  resplendent 
in  color  as  to  rival  the  far-famed  poppy  fields  of  India. 

The  most  remarkable  of  all  the  flowers  is  "  el  arbol  de  las  manitas  " 
("  tree  of  the  little  hands  "),  cheirostemon  platonidcs,  a  native  of  cold 
lands.  The  bright-red  flowers  are  well-defined,  miniature  hands.  It 
has  the  leaf  of  the  platonos  tree,  which  is  common  in  European 
gardens.  The  flower  is  a  popular  remedy  with  the  Indians  for  heart 
disease.  It  grows  wild,  but  is  very  scarce,  there  being  only  one  in  the 
National  Palace  Gardens,  one  in  San  Francisco  Garden,  and  a  few  in 
the  valley  of  Tohica.  It  has  a  black  seed,  smaller  than  a  pea,  is  very 
slow  of  growth,  and  at  ninety  years  of  age  has  attained  no  remarkable 
size  or  height. 

Tulipan — botanical  name  Hibiscus  rosa  sinensis,  a  native  of  East 
India.  The  flowers  are  both  single  and  double,  are  scarlet,  pale  yel- 
low, and  chocolate-colored — three  varieties.  They  are  indigenous  to 
hot  countries,  and  serve  no  purpose  save  ornamentation.  The  leaf  is 
a  beautiful  dark  green,  resembling  that  of  the  orange  ;  altogether,  it  is 
one  of  the  most  gorgeous  of  all  the  flowers  that  are  seen  in  Mexico. 

"  Flor  de  noche  biicna"  or  Christmas  flower  {Poinsittia  piilcherrima), 
belongs  to  the  tribe  of  Euphorbia.  It  grows  about  four  meters  high  ; 
the  leaves  are  large  and  of  a  dark,  lusterless  green.  When  the  plant 
stops  blooming  the  leaves  put  forth.  The  flower  itself  is  insignificant, 
but  around  it  are  several  bracteas,  large,  and  of  a  brilliant  scarlet 
color.  It  begins  to  bloom  at  Christmas  and  ceases  in  about  two 
months.  It  is  also  used  by  the  Indians  as  a  remedy  for  some  of  their 
numerous  maladies.      It  can  be  grown  from  cuttings. 

Another  remarkable  plant  that  blooms  in  the  hot  countries  as  early 


176  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

as  January,  February,  or  March,  and  in  colder  climates  later,  is  called 
plumcria.  In  the  stem  and  leaves  it  contains  a  white  milky  juice.  It 
grows  to  several  yards  in  height.  Some  bear  rose-colored  flowers, 
others  white,  and  others  yellow,  which  have  a  powerful  but  pleasant 
odor.  The  Aztec  name  is  cacolox  ocJiitt,  which  means  the  flower  of 
the  raven.  It  is  indigenous  to  the  country,  and  is  propagated  from 
branches. 

The  Valley  of  Mexico  is  the  valley  of  the  lil_\',  although  the  lily  of 
the  valley,  as  I  am  told,  does  not  grow  there.  But  there  are  above 
fifty  varieties,  no  two  alike,  blooming  on  mountain,  crag,  or  plain, 
which  for  beauty  and  coloring  are  unequaled. 

ART  GALLERY  AND  MUSEUM. 

A  visit  to  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  should  not  be  omitted. 
Hours  may  be  profitably  employed  there,  and  one  will  come  away 
with  the  desire  to  examine  further  its  impressive  treasures. 

The  native  talent  is  unquestionably  fine.  But,  though  fostered 
and  encouraged  by  the  government,  it  lacks  the  stimulus  of  popular 
appreciation  and  demand.  Thus  it  happens  that  some  of  the  most 
accomplished  artists  suffer  for  the  essentials  of  life,  or,  as  an  alterna- 
tive, expend  their  skill  upon  the  gay  interiors  oi ptilquc  shops. 

In  the  great  National  Academy  of  San  Carlos,  one  may  see 
drawings  that  would  reflect  credit  on  any  school  of  art.  They  dis- 
play a  soft  and  delicate  touch,  with  much  attention  to  the  most 
minute  details  of  finish. 

In  painting,  as  in  drawing,  the  art  school  chooses  an  over-smooth 
finish  ;   in  this  differing  from  the  general  modern  style. 

Few  of  the  pupils  seem  to  have  been  inspired  by  the  beautiful 
natural  objects  of  their  own  country.  Indeed,  with  the  exception  of 
Velasco,  who  takes  precedence  in  landscape,  and  whose  subject  is  the 
Valley  of  Mexico,  no  one  has  given  any  attention  worthy  the  name 
to  Mexican  scenery.  Of  Sr.  Jose  M.  Velasco,  Professor  of  Perspec- 
tive and    Landscape   in   the  Academy,  Seflor   Landesio,  in    1867,  in  a 


TENOCHTITLAN—THE   AZTEC   CAPITAL.  \JJ 

work  entitled  Landscape  Fainting  and  Perspective  in  the  National 
Academy,  says:  "This  young  artist,  who  already  is  strong  in 
himself,  warrants  the  highest  hopes,  and  will  do  great  honor  to  his 
country,  contributing  efficaciously  to  this  high  end  by  his  noble 
efforts." 

His  paintings  have  taken  premiums  in  the  Centennial  Exposition 
in  Philadelphia,  and  in  the  Paris  Exposition,  and  occupy  prominent 
places  in  the  National  Academy.  The  world  may  unite  in  raving 
over  its  exquisite  beauties,  but  the  average  native  artist  seeks  his 
inspiration  from  other  sources. 

There  is  something  mediaeval  in  their  so  frequent  choice  of  relig- 
ious themes. 

Some  of  the  most  interesting  works  in  the  collection  are  those  by 
the  early  masters  of  the  Spanish-Mexican  school,  to  whom  must  be 
accorded  precedence. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  seventeenth  century,  Baltazar  Echave  put 
in  the  initiatory  strokes.  All  the  works  of  this  time  have  a  mellow 
richness  and  an  even  distribution  of  color  that  bespeak  a  broad  and 
vigorous  thought.  Gay  colors  fill  the  canvas  smoothly  and  harmoni- 
ously. 

Luis  Juarez  has  many  wonderful  exhibitions  of  his  great  genius. 
In  none  is  it  more  clearly  expressed  than  in  his  St.  Ildefonso.  The 
scene  represents  the  saint  having  conferred  upon  him  by  angel  hands 
the  robes  of  office  of  a  bishop.  A  virgin  and  angel  heads  fill  the 
upper  space  of  the  canvas,  the  whole  imparting  a  sweet  and  touching 
impression. 

Nicolas  and  Juan  Rodriguez,  as  also  other  contemporaries,  have 
exhibited  an  equal  genius  and  care  in  the  execution  of  their  work. 

Cabrera  and  Ibarra  are  the  most  prominent  figures  of  the  second 
period  of  Mexican  art,  but  they  are  not  the  equals,  either  in  concep 
tion  or  execution,  of  the  earlier  masters. 

Of  the  moderns,  one  of  the  noblest  of  all  the  paintings  in  the 
Academy  is  that  of  "  Las  Casas  "  (a  priest)  "  Protecting  the  Aztecs 
from  Slaughter  by  the  Spaniards."     It  is  the  work  of  Felix  Parra,  and 


178  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH  THE  MEXICANS. 

ail}-  art  gallery  in  the  world  might  deem  its  possession  a  treasure, 
and  the  artist  accomplished  the  great  task  before  he  had  made  a 
visit  to  the  art  galleries  of  Europe. 

The  next   most  touching  to  me  was  the  "  Death  of  Atala,"  which 
expresses  a  divine   inspiration  and   is  pathetic  to  the  last  degree.     In 


THE    AZTEC   CALENUAK    STONE. 


addition  to  the  works  of  native  artists,  the  gallery  is  enriched  by 
many  original  paintings  of  the  great  masters  of  Europe.  But  more 
time  cannot  be  given  to  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  all  the  public 
institutions  of  Mexico. 

Mexican  antiquities  constitute  in  themselves  a  world  of  thought 
and  research.      We  read  of  their  spoliation  and  destruction  by  vandal 


TENO<^HTITLAN—TnE  AZ/kC   CAPJTAL. 


179 


hands,  but  it  seems  almost  incredible  when  a  visit  is  made  to  the 
National  Museum. 

A  wide  difference  of  opinion  prevails  amongst  arclijeologists  and 
antiquarians  as  to  the  deductions  on  Mexican  antiquities.  So  far, 
nothing  is  shrouded  in  greater  mystery  and  to  the  future  we  must 
look  for  a  solution. 

Until  1884  there  was  no  catalogue  by  which  English-speaking 
tourists  might  enjoy  the  relics  of  antiquity  in  the  museum.  Mr.  W. 
W.  Blake,  an  accomplished  scholar  and  gentleman,  has  recently 
arranged  and  published  an  excellent  catalogue  which  unlocks  a  hid- 
den world  of  knowledge  to  all  who  desire  enlightenment.  Space 
does  not  admit  a  mention  befitting  the  subject,  and  a  mere  glance  at 
a  few  of  its  leading  objects  must  suffice. 

The  Aztec  Calendar  Stone  is  of  solid  basalt,  porous  but  fine.  It 
is  12  feet  in  diameter,  and  its  weight  is  53,790  pounds.  After  the 
conquerors  leveled  all  the  temples  of  Indian  worship,  this  stone  was 
imbedded  a  half  yard  in 

V.''   V         '■  ■ ' 


the  marshy  earth.  It 
was  e.xhumed  in  1790. 
A  Mexican  year  contain- 
ed eighteen  months,  and 
these  were  arranged  in 
symbolical  representa- 
tions upon  this  great 
stone.  Some  such  names 
as  these  are  found  upon 
it :  Sea  Animal,  Lizard, 
Death,  Path  of  the  Sun, 
and  others  of  like  order  ; 
until  one  finds  himself 
lost  in  the  mazes  of  the 
great  barbaric  puzzle. 
The  Sacrificial  Stone 

is  a  religious  symbol  as 
12 


TOLTEC— COLOSSAL    HEAD    IN    DIORITE. 


i8o 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICAMS. 


well  as  an  historical  monument.  Its  diameter  is  about  two  and  one- 
half  meters — seven  and  one-half  feet,  while  its  height  is  perhaps  four- 
fifths  of  the  diameter.  This  stone  was  exhumed  in  1791,  about  one 
year  after  the  Calendar  Stone.  It  was  dedicated  to  the  sun,  and 
has  a  sculptured  image  of  the  luminary  on  its  upper  face.  Groups  of 
people  are  seen  on  its  convex  sides,  but  it  is  blood-curdling  to  see  that 
some  of  these  are  held  by  the  hair. 

In  the  days  of  its  use,  it  is  said  that  from  twenty  to  fifty  thousand 
persons  were  annually  sacrificed  on  it.  Prisoners  of  war  were 
usually  chosen  as  a  proper  sacrifice.  Arrayed  in  gorgeous  apparel, 
decked  with  flowers,  and  bearing  in  his  hands  musical  instruments, 
the  victim  ascended  the  steps  of  the  temple.  He  was  made  the 
bearer  of  orders  and  messages  to  the  sun,  and  when  at  last  the  stone 

was  reached  five  priests  bound 
and  laid  him  on  it.  while  a  sixth, 
with  a  "  scarlet  mantle,  emblemat- 
ic of  his  bloody  office,  dexterously 
opened  the  breast  of  the  wretched 
victim  with  a  sharp  razor,  made  of 
itztli,  a  volcanic  substance,  hard 
as  flint,  and  inserting  his  hand, 
tore  out  the  palpitating  heart." 

As  this  ancient  relic  now 
stands  in  the  National  Museum, 
one  may  recall  a  long  past  scene, 
by  inspecting  the  canal  cut  across 
the  top  and  down  one  side,  for 
the  blood  to  pass  from  the  victim, 
yet  writhing  in  his  death  agony. 

In  close  proximity  to  the 
Sacrificial  Stone,  the  Mexican 
Mars  (called  by  the  euphonious 
name  of  Hnitzilopotchli)  rears  his 
monstrous  head. 


'^k*.^ 


IIUIIZILUI'UTCHLI,   THE  AZTEC   GOD  OF   WAR. 


TENOCHTITLAN—THE    AZTEC   CAPITAL.  igj 

In  the  historical  part  are  relics  of  the  noted  men  of  the  past, 
Hidalgo,  Guerrero,  Santa  Anna,  and  the  Emperor  Iturbide.  Of 
the  latter  ill-fated  monarch  there  are  ten  pieces  of  glass  showing 
excellent  photographs. 

There  are  about  thirty  pieces  of  Spanish  armor,  two  of  the  pieces 
having  engraved  upon  them  the  name  of  Pedro  Alvarado.  The  plate 
of  Maximilian  and  also  his  bust  are  here. 

In  the  archaeological  department  are  paintings,  Aztec  weapons, 
musical  instruments,  wedges,  spindles,  idols  of  stone  and  clay,  and  so 
on,  ad  fill. 

Each  of  the  beautiful  environs  of  the  Mexican  capital  has  its 
picturesque  little  plaza,  sparkling  fountain,  gay  flowers,  and  many 
national  embellishments.  A  perfect  street-car  system,  stretching  over 
thirty-three  leagues,  enables  the  tourist  to  observe  at  leisure  these 
towns,  several  of  which  were  in  existence  before  the  conquest. 

A  charming  day  may  be  spent  by  taking  a  car  at  the  Zdcalo  for 
Tacubaya,  the  Versailles  of  Mexico,  thence  to  San  Angel,  where  if 
you  have  not  provided  your  own  picnic  dinner,  you  caji  dine  at  one  of 
the  comfortable  fondas.  The  air  is  delightful  here,  and  fruits  and 
flowers  are  in  abundance.  Take  another  tram- car,  from  which  j-ou 
gain  enchanting  views  of  field,  forest  and  glen,  passing  the  shady 
picturesque  village  of  Coyacuan,  and  '■'■El  Arbol  Bcndito" — a  grand  old 
tree,  centuries  old.  Not  far  off  may  be  seen  the  first  church  built  by 
Cortez,  near  the  capital,  and  the  monument  at  Churubusco.  Near 
this,  the  tram  passes  from  Mexico.  Taking  it,  you  soon  find  \'our- 
self  at  the  charming  suburban  town  of  Tlalpam — seventeen  miles 
from  the  city — lying  peacefully  on  the  spurs  and  foot-hills  of  the  lofty 
Cordilleras.  With  delightful  impressions  of  the  excursion  you  return 
to  the  city,  reaching  it  about  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening. 

Another  excursion  of  equal  interest  may  be  made,  which  includes 
a  pilgrimage  to  the  most  sacred  shrine  of  Me.xico.  Turn  northward 
toward  Lake  Tezenco,  still  by  tram,  and  you  soon  reach  Cerro  del 
Tepayac,  historic  ground  from  the  days  of  the  conquest.  From  this 
point  you  may  survey  the  identical   route  taken  by  the  conquerors  on 


1 82  FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

entering  the  capital.  Here  also,  in  the  cuartcl  of  the  soldiers,  the 
treaty  of  Guadalupe-Hidalgo  was  signed  between  the  United  States 
and  Mexico,  which  closed  the  war  of  1846-48. 

Returing,  pass  along  to  the  Viga  boulevard,  bordering  the  canal 
of  the  same  name,  and.  leaving  the  car,  hire  a  boat  for  a  small  sum 
and  proceed  down  the  canal  to  the  Chinainpas,  the  legendary  floating 
gardens.  The  water  has  not  a  ripple,  save  what  is  made  by  the  oars, 
and  the  big-hatted  boatman  gracefully  swings  them  until  you  come 
suddenly  upon  the  village  of  Santa  Anita.  Here  you  may  refresh 
yourself  with  a  Mexican  luncheon.  Lake  Xochimilco,  sixteen  miles 
distant,  is  the  main  outlet  of  this  canal.  But  we  may  come  and  go 
as  oft  as  we  will,  and  still  find  the  floating  gardens  purely  legendary. 
The  nearest  approach  to  a  realization  of  the  legend  consists  of  a 
space  of  earth  forming  a  bed  for  vegetables,  fruits,  and  flowers,  having 
on  either  side  a  ditch  from  which  the  garden  is  irrigated. 

Humboldt  says  with  regard  to  floating  gardens,  commonly  known 
as  the  Chinainpas :  "There  are  two  sorts  of  them,  of  which  the  one 
is  movable  and  driven  about  by  the  winds,  and  the  other  fixed  and 
attached  to  shore.  The  first,  alone,  merit  the  denomination  of  float- 
ing gardens. 

"  The  ingenious  invention  of  Chinantpas  appears  to  go  back  to  the 
end  of  the  fourteenth  century.  It  had  its  origin  in  the  extraordinary 
situation  of  a  people  surrounded  with  enemies  and  compelled  to  live 
in  the  midst  of  a  lake,  little  abounding  in  fish,  who  were  forced  to 
fall  upon  every  means  of  procuring  subsistence.  It  is  even  probable 
that  nature  herself  suggested  to  the  Aztecs  the  first  idea  of  floating 
gardens.  On  the  marshy  banks  of  the  lakes  Xochimilco  and  Chaleo, 
the  agitated  water,  in  time  of  the  great  rises,  carries  away  pieces  of 
earth  covered  with  herbs  and  bound  together  by  roots.  These,  float- 
ing about  for  a  long  time  and  driven  by  the  wind,  sometimes  unite 
into  small  islands.  A  tribe  of  men,  too  weak  to  defend  themselves 
on  the  continent,  would  take  advantage  of  these  portions  of  ground 
which  accident  put  within  their  reach,  and  of  which  no  enemy  dis- 
puted the  property.     .     .     .     In  proportion  as  the  fresh-water  lake  has 


AN    ANCIENT    HOUSE     ON    THE    VIGA    CANAL,   AND    A    PEW    OF    THE     PASSERS-EY. 


TENOCHTITLAN-THE  AZTEC   CAPITAL. 


1S5 


become  more  distant 
from  the  salt-water  lake, 
the  movable  Chinanipas 
have  become  more  fix- 
ed. .  .  .  Every  Chi- 
iiampa  forms  a  paral- 
lelogram of  100  meters 
in  length,  and  five  or  six 
meters  in  breadth  (328  x 
16  or  ig  feet).  Beans, 
peppers,  potatoes,  and 
a  magnificent  variety  of 
vegetables  are  cultivat- 
ed on  them,  and  every 
border,  almost,  is  hedged 
by  lovely,  bright  flowers." 
But  chief  in  historic 
interest  of  the  sights 
in  the  vicinit}-  of  the 
capital,  is  the  grand  old 
fortress  of  Chapultepec. 
It  is  reached  by  either  a 
pleasant  stroll  of  three 
miles,  by  tram,  or  by 
carriage  on  the  Paseo, 
and  at  last  we  rest  be- 
neath the  shade  of  state- 
ly old  trees,  with  their 
clinging  drapery  of  white 
moss;  some  of  these 
trees  are  reputed  to  have 
been  in  existence  fifteen 
hundred  years,  and  are 
known   as  ahuchuctcs. 


1 86  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

According  to  Humboldt,  Chapultepec  rises  above  the  plain  to  the 
remarkable  height  of  7,626  feet.  "  It  was  chosen  by  the  young 
viceroy,  Galvez,  as  the  site  of  a  villa  {Chateau  de  Plaisance)  for  himself 
and  his  successors. 

"  Of  the  fifty  viceroys  who  have  governed  Mexico  from  1535  to 
1808,  one  alone  was  born  in  America,  the  Peruvian,  Don  Juan  de 
Auina  de  Casa  Fuerte  (1722- 1734),  a  disinterested  man  and  good 
administrator.  Some  of  my  readers,"  he  continues,  "  will  perhaps  be 
interested  in  knowing  that  a  descendant  of  Christopher  Columbus 
and  a  descendant  of  King  Montezuma  were  among  the  viceroys  of 
Spain.  Don  Pedro  Nuno  Colon,  Duke  of  Veraguas,  made  his  entry 
at  Mexico  in  1673,  and  died  six  weeks  afterward.  The  viceroy,  Don 
Joseph  Sarmiento  Valladares,  Count  de  Montezuma,  governed  from 
1697  to  1701." 

A  glance  either  way  revives  a  history  which  fills  the  mind  with 
thoughts  too  sad  for  utterance.  This  noble  hill  of  solid  porphyry 
was  the  country  place  of  Montezuma  and  his  ancestors  ;  and  since 
then  no  marked  event  has  ever  occurred,  within  access  of  it,  in  which 
the  grand  old  castle  has  not  played  a  prominent  part.  On  entering 
the  gates,  turn  to  the  right  and  you  are  soon  far  around  the  circle, 
where  the  sweet,  soft  air  sighs  through  the  cypress  trees,  and  seems  to 
speak  in  broken  accents  of  the  "voiceless  past." 

Near  at  hand  is  the  aqueduct,  built  by  Montezuma,  now  bordered 
with  long  grass  and  wild-flowers  with  their  heads  drooping  down- 
ward, and  through  which,  despite  the  decay  and  havoc  of  centuries, 
the  water  trickles,  sweet  as  ever. 

Turn  another  way,  and  see  the  stone  steps  which  Montezuma  had 
carved  in  the  hill,  then  the  only  mode  of  ascent  ;  and  his  cave,  said 
to  have  no  termination.  Near  this  point  begins  the  drive  constructed 
by  Maximilian,  winding  around  the  mountain,  and  greatly  facilitating 
access  to  the  castle — now  the  residence  of  the  President,  and  the 
West  Point  of  Mexico. 

The  architecture  of  the  fortress  is  grand  and  imposing.  With  im- 
mense portholes   in  its  circular  towers,  and  with   its  massive  rounded 


ThNOCtniTLAN—THE   AZTKC   CAPITAL.  187 

corners,  it  recalls  the  feudal  castles  of  the  middle  ages.  The  exten- 
sive wings  constitute  the  military  schools. 

The  castle  is  fitted  up  and  decorated  in  a  manner  wortliy  of  its 
present  occupants,  having  been  frescoed  by  Casarin,  a  pupil  of  Meiy- 
sonier.  The  wood  work  in  the  President's  room  is  of  ebony  inlaid 
with  gold.  The  walls  of  the  drawing-room  are  covered  with  satin 
damask,  while  the  carpet  alone  cost  $2,000.  Beyond  all  question  it 
can  be  surpassed  by  few,  if  any,  royal  residences  in  the  world. 

Three  hundred  and  fifty  handsome,  manly  young  fellows  receive, 
in  the  Academy  at  Chapultcpec,  a  scientific  and  military  education, 
free  of  all  charges.  It  was  my  pleasure,  on  one  occasion,  to  witness 
the  drilling  of  these  young  cadets  ;  and  I  must  say  that  they  went 
through  their  evolutions  with  an  ease  and  familiarity  that  would  have 
reflected  credit  on  our  own  cadets  of  West  Point. 

Passing  Montezuma's  spring  and  the  grand  old  tree  under  which 
he  sat,  at  a  short  distance  and  in  full  view  is  Molino  del  Rey,  where 
another  sanguinary  battle  was  fought.  Within  stone's-throw  stands 
the  monument  which  a  generous  people  permitted  our  government  to 
erect  to  the  memory  of  the  soldiers  who  fell  there. 

On  the  eastern  and  most  inaccessible  part  of  the  hill  is  where  the 
American  forces  stormed  the  fortress.  At  this  point  stands  a  beauti- 
ful monument,  on  wiiich  I  read  tlie  following  inscription  :  "  To  the 
Memorj'  of  the  Scholars  of  the  Military  School,  who  died  like  heroes 
in  the  North  American  invasion  13th  September,  1847." 

Every  day  in  the  year  the  students  tenderly  lay  upon  it  fresh 
flowers  and  green  garlands  in  honor  of  their  dead  compatriots. 

Before  the  battle  the  cadets  formed  a  sacred  compact  between 
themselves  never  to  surrender  save  in  death.  Their  ages  were  from 
fourteen  to  eighteen  years.  But  they  fought  like  heroes — first  one, 
then  another  taking  the  flag,  until,  still  standing  and  fighting,  the  last 
of  the  gallant  forty-eight  surrendered  his  young  life  in  defense  of  his 
countr)'. 

The  climate,  of  which  so  much  has  been  written,  is  exceptionally 
agreeable,  )'et  difficult  to  describe.     If  one  can  conceive  the  delights 


l88  FACE    TO   FACE    IPIT/f    THE    MEXICANS. 

of  a  crisp  day  in  October,  united  to  the  brightness  of  a  clear  day  in 
January,  but  without  snow  or  ice,  and,  mingled  with  these,  the  Hfe- 
giving  air  of  a  balmy  day  in  May,  and  then  imagine  twelve  months  of 
such  weather,  some  idea  may  be  had  of  this  enchanting  clime. 

When  Joaquin  Miller  was  asked  his  opinion  of  Mexico,  he  replied 
enthusiastically  :  "  Mexico  !  Why,  it  is  Italy  and  France  and  the  best 
part  of  Spain  tied  up  together  in  one  bunch  of  rapturous  fragrance. 
There  are  no  such  skies  as  has  Mexico.  People  have  got 
into  the  habit  of  talking  about  the  sapphire  blue  that  domes  Italy. 
But  it  is  because  travelers,  as  a  rule,  go  there  by  way  of  misty,  foggy 
England,  and  the  contrast  is  io  great  as  to  enchant  them.  But  right 
here  among  the  grand,  restful  mountains  which  rim  this  valley,  I  have 
seen  the  brightest  skies  in  all  my  life  ;  here,  six  days  from  Chicago  and 
eight  days  from  Boston,  is  more  than  Italy  can  give.  I  have  seen  the 
cattle  and  the  stars  sleep  side  by  side  on  the  mountains!  Let  me 
explain.  There  is  generally  a  mist  crowning  every  mountain  peak 
which  shuts  out  the  stars.  Here,  how  different!  In  my  ramblings 
over  the  valley  at  night,  the  misty  curtain  is  swept  away  and  the  stars 
can  be  seen  all  along  the  ridges.  They  stand  out  brilliant  in  this 
clear  atmosphere.  No  such  atmosphere  can  be  met  near  Naples  or 
Florence." 

At  the  capital  I  observed  the  peculiar  tints  that  settle  over  the 
mountain  peaks  in  the  late  evenings.  Looking  upward  from  one 
street,  the  gazer  sees  a  clear  gray;  from  another,  a  liquid  blue;  from 
another,  a  bright  rose  or  amber  or  gorgeous  orange;  all  floating  and 
blending  together  until  the  entire  heavens  are  lit  up  by  a  bewitching 
roseate  glow,  which  seems  to  vibrate  gently  to  and  fro  in  the  thin 
air,  while  the  whole  superb  canopy  is  gemmed  witii  stars,  which 
partake  of  the  glowing  tints  surrounding  them. 

Later  in  the  night,  I  have  gazed  in  rapt  admiration  on  the  chang- 
ing of  this  roseate  hue  into  one  so  deeply,  darkly  blue,  that  to  my 
vision  the  sky  appeared  a  dome  of  jetty  black,  from  which  myriads 
of  refulgent  jewels  shone  out. 

The   contrast    between    the   works   of   the    Great   Architect  of  the 


TENOCHTITLAN—1  HE  AZThC   CAPITAL. 


189 


Universe  and  those  of  man  never  setmed  gieaterthan  on  turning  from 
this  celestial  /iew  to  the  mundane  scene  below.  From  my  point  of 
observation  in  the  Zocalo,  vvliere  both  our  modern  gas  and  electric 
lights  flashed  their  brilliant  rays  across  the  wide  streets,  I  could  see 
the  sleeping-place  of  a  large  proportion  of  the  poorer  denizens  of  the 
city — their  roof,  the  broad  expanse  of  heaven — their  bed,  the  stone 
pavement,  or  at  most  a.  pctatc — the  rcboso  or  scrape  forming  their  sole 
covering.        Here,    without     inconvenience,    these    contented    people 


SCENE    IN    THE  ALAMEDA. 


slept,  cuddled  up,  undisturbed  by  the  yay  throngs  who  walked  back 
and  forth  around  and  among  them. 

Everywhere  in  the  republic  this  out-door  life  exists.  How  differ- 
ent in  the  northern  part  of  the  United  States  !  When  the  people 
there  are  shivering  from  intense  cold,  and  all  the  avenues  of  travel 
are  blocked  with  snow  and  ice,  here  are  perpetual  sunshine  and 
flowers. 

Every  climate  in  the  world  may  be  experienced  between  the  sea- 
shore at  Vera  Cruz  and  the  capital.      Eternal   snows  lie  upon   the  one 


igO  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

hand ;  on  the  other,  verdant  plains  and  fertile  valleys.  Even  the 
summer  heat  and  drought  on  the  table-lands  are  mitigated  by  the 
advent  of  the  rainy  season,  which  begins  in  May  and  ends  with 
November.  It  i--  not  continuous.  The  sun  may  be  shining  brightly, 
when  suddenly  the  sky  is  overcast,  and  the  rain  descends  in  torrents, 
to  be  succeeded  by  sunshine.  If  two  cloudy  or  rainy  days  come  con- 
secutively, the  people  find  themselves  quite  aggrieved,  and  complain 
of  the  awful  weather.  But  the  rain  usually  comes  late  in  the  evening 
or  at  night ;  then  the  streets,  ditches  and  canals  overflow  their  banks 
and  become  merged  in  an  open  sea;  but  in  the  morning  the  water  has 
disappeared  ;  the  sun  comes  out  in  all  his  splendor  and  cheering  rays  ; 
the  blue  sky  smiles,  and  all  nature  rejoices. 

At  the  capital  thereare  three  distinct  temperatures — that  of  the 
sunny  side  of  the  street,  that  of  the  shady  side,  and  that  in  the 
house.  In  the  morning,  walk  as  early  as  ten  o'clock,  on  the  sunny 
side  of  the  street,  the  heat  will  be  almost  overpowering.  On  making 
a  change  to  the  shady  side,  the  difference  will  be  so  great  as  to  pro- 
duce a  severe  cold,  while  the  light  wrap,  worn  with  comfort  in  the 
street,  will  be  found  insufficient  in  the  house. 

On  reaching  an  altitude  of  four  thousand  feet  and  upward, 
strangers,  and  especially  ladies,  experience  a  peculiar  dizziness,  which 
continues  for  several  days,  after  which  they  usually  return  to  their 
normal  condition.  At  the  capital  the  elevation  above  sea-level  is 
7,349  feet,  and  during  the  first  week  after  my  arrival  I  was  almost 
prostrated  from  this  dizziness. 

Another  peculiarity  of  the  climate  consists  in  the  fact  that  it  is 
considered  by  many  to  be  dangerous  to  pass  suddenly  from  a  closed 
room  to  the  white  light  and  open  air  outside.  I  saw  several  instances  in 
which  incurable  blindness  w'as  said  to  be  produced  in  this  way.  The 
natives  understand  the  importance  of  moving  about  the  house  before 
going  abruptly  into  the  open  air. 

Still  another  climatic  effect  is,  that  the  uncovering  of  the  head  is 
apt  to  produce  a  severe  catarrhal  cold.  For  tliis  reason  gentlemen 
never  remove  their  hats  for  anv  length  of  time  when  out  of  doors. 


TKNOCHTITLAX—THE   AZ'IEC   CAPITAL. 


igr 


According  to  the  Obscrvador  Medico,  the  death  rate  of  the  city  for 
1885  was  13,008,  of  which  6,431  were  females,  and  5,577  males.  The 
most  frequent  causes  of  death  were  pulmonary  and  tuberculous  affec- 
tions, which,  with  pneumonia  and  bronchitis,  made  up  an  alarming 
mortality  of  4,292 — about  one-third  of  the  \.'hole.  Contrary  to  what 
might  be  expected,  only  179  deaths  occurred  from  small-pox,  while 
typhus  and  intermittent  and  malignant  fevers  claimed  but  a  small 
number  of  victims.  After  lung  diseases,  diarrhea  and  dysentery 
were  the  most  fatal,  running  up  to  2,866.  Allowing  that  the  city  of 
Mexico  has  a  population  of  350,000,  the  annual  death  rate  is  a  trifle 
over  37  per  1,000.  But  if  we  consider  that  annually  thousands  of 
poor  Indians  from  the  hot  regions  come  to  Mexico  and  die  from 
exposure  and  hardship,  the  real  death  rate  will  not  exceed  from  two 
to  three  per  cent.  From  its  high  rate  of  mortalit}-  arises  the  repu- 
tation of  the  capital  for  extreme  unhealthiness ;  but  with  its  primitive 
system  of  sewerage,  imperfect  drainage,  and  poor  ventilation  of  the 
houses,  no  surprise  should  be  felt.  Any  one  who  witnesses  the  re- 
pairing and  cleansing  of  the  immense  sewer  canals  that  are  covered 
over  in  the  middle  of  the  streets,  will  certainly  wonder  that  the  death 
rate  is  not  higher. 

The  number  of  funerals  consequent  upon  sucii  a  large  mor- 
t  a  1  i  t  y  is  only 
equaled  by  the 
strange  manner  in 
which  they  are  con- 
ducted. The  high-  '^^^|fji| 
est  dignitaries  of 
the  land  and  the 
h  u  m  b  1  e  s  t  peon 
share  equal  honors 
in  the  mode  of  tran- 
s  i  t  employed  i  n 
conveying  their  life- 
less remains  to  their 


IDLERS     IN     THE   ZOCALO. 


192  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

last  resting-places.  It  was  an  astute  nineteenth  century  schemer  who 
conceived  the  idea  of  employing  the  street  railways  as  the  best 
method  of  transporting  the  dead  to  the  cemeteries.  One  man  owned 
all  the  lines  of  street  railway,  and  in  order  to  carry  out  his  purposes, 
he  bought  up  all  the  hearses  and  their  equipments,  and  tlius  com- 
pelled the  public  to  accept  his  plan.  It  works  admirably  so  far.  The 
wealthy  may  indulge  a  hearse  car,  plumed,  draped,  liveried,  and 
lackeyed,  for  $120,  with  an  additional  one,  or  perhaps  two,  for  friends. 
The  plainer  cars,  drawn  by  one  mule,  may  be  procured  for  $3,  while 
others  reach  from  $12  to  $30,  including  one  or  two  cars,  neatly  draped, 
for  mourners.  But  to  the  stranger  eye,  accustomed  to  seeing  the  long 
cortege  moving  solemnly  along  the  streets,  with  its  hearse  and  weeping 
mourners,  the  Mexican  plan  seems  repulsive  and  devoid  of  that  re- 
spect which  we  pay  to  the  lifeless  clay  of  our  loved  ones.  It  reminds 
one  irresistibly  of  Thomas  Noel's  famous  couplet : 

"  Rattle  his  bones  over  the  stones  ! 

He's  only  a  pauper,  whom  noliody  owns!"* 

A  short  sojourn,  however,  serves  to  convince  the  most  skeptical 
of  the  "  fitness  of  things,"  the  Mexican  method  being  far  more  ex- 
peditious and,  it  is  claimed,  less  expensive  than  the  old  plan. 

Any  day  in  the  week  one  may  take  a  car  for  Tacubaya,  and  there 
see  the  Indians  transporting  their  dead  to  Dolores  Cemetery.  I  have 
seen  four  men  bearing  on  their  heads  the  cofTin  containing  its  dead 
occupant.  For  miles  they  tramp  steadily  along,  themselves  the  only 
hearse,  horses,  cortege,  or  mourners. 

"  In  the  ihirkness  of  the  forest  boughs," 

with  the  muffled  tread  of  naked  feet,  tlicy  journey  with  their  dead.  At 
other  times  one  may  see  a  poor  woman,  bearing  upon  her  head 
a  plain  little  open  coffin,  containing  her  dead  child,  with  eyes  wide 
open  and  a  profusion  of  gay  flowers  covering  the  tiny  form.  What 
volumes  it  tells  of  the  sweetly  poetic  thoughts,  implanted  b\'  a  divine 
hand  in  the  heart  of  a  poverty-stricken,  bereaved    Indian  mother! 

*  The  Pauper's  Ride. 


TENOCHTITLAN—THE   AZTEC   CAPITAL.  195 

The  Valley  of  Mexico  is  a  basin,  elliptical  in  form,  about  forty 
miles  long  by  thirty  wide.  It  is  rimmed  by  mountains  of  porphyry, 
and  its  surface  is  diversified  with  lakes  and  hills.  The  scenery  is  un- 
rivaled now  as  when  it  first  met  the  enraptured  gaze  of  the  Spaniards, 
who  in  their  enthusiasm  exclaimed:    "  It  is  the  promised  land  !  " 

The  valley  is  watered  by  lakes,  both  of  fresh  and  salt  water.  Lake 
Tezcuco,  whose  waters  once  surrounded  the  capital,  has  now  retreated 
three  miles. 

A  great  portion  of  the  valley  was  once  a  vast  forest,  which  was 
denuded  by  the  vandal  conquerors.  Hardly  a  vestige  remains  to  tell 
of  past  glories  save  the  grove  of  ancient  cypresses  at  Chapultepec  fes- 
tooned with  their  melancholy  moss. 

In  ever)' direction  one  may  gaze  on  scenes  of  beauty  and  grandeur, 
while  in  the  distance,  but  ever  in  view,  are  the  majestic  Popocata- 
petl  towering  17,720  feet  over  the  surrounding  mountains — and  his 
less  familiar  but  no  less  sublime  consort,  Istaccihuatl,  pronounced 
cs-tdk-se-hwdt'  l. 

Popocatapetl  ("Smoking  Mountain  "),  with  his  tall  peak,  stands 
side  by  side  with  Iztaccihuatl,  familiarly  called  La  Mujcr  Blanca, 
or  the  Woman  in  White.  The  two  mountains  unite  in  forming  a 
feature  of  intense  interest  to  every  stranger.  The  grand  old  moun- 
tain, lifting  his  imposing  volcanic  cone  thousands  of  feet  into  the  clear 
sky,  seems  to  keep  a  majestic  watch  over  the  motionless  slumbers  of 
the  Woman  in  White.  The  Smoking  Mountain  is  silent  now;  but 
who  can  predict  that  the  sleeping  citizens  of  Mexico  will  never  more 
be  rudely  awakened  by  his  convulsive  shakings  and  awful  thunders? 

The  Indians,  with  their  endless  legends  and  traditions,  wove  a 
romantic  story  of  these  mountains.  With  their  love  for  the  marvelous, 
they  attribute  the  Titanic  mutterings  of  Popocatapetl  to  grief  for  his 
beautiful  Iztaccihuatl,  who  sleeps  on  regardless  of  his  thunderous  tones. 

The  Woman  in  White  lies  stretched  out  as  in  a  long  and  peaceful 
slumber — the  rugged  brow  of  the  mountain  forming  the  bier  upon 
which  she  rests. 

The  Toltecs,  the  Chichimicas,  and  the  Acolhuausmay  have  pitched 


196  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

their  tents,  and  wandered  under  the  shadows,  and  looked  in  awe  on 
the  grand  entombment  under  the  open  heavens,  of  the  dead  woman. 
They  have  come  and  gone,  disappeared  forever  from  the  sight  of 
man,  but,  clad  in  her  garments  of  perpetual  snow,  lying  on  her  grand 
bier,  through  summer  suns  and  winter  frosts,  Iztaccihuatl  sleeps  on. 

With  her  arms  folded  over  her  ice-clad  breast — her  knees  drawn 
slightly  upward,  with  the  limbs  gracefully  sloping,  the  figure  of  the 
sleeping  woman  is  completely  outlined  on  the  mountain  top.  Her 
icy  tresses  flow  unconfined  over  the  dark  mountain  sides.  Thrown 
over  all  is  a  winding-sheet,  which  falls  in  graceful  folds,  covering  the 
dead,  frozen  woman. 

Often,  when  the  sun  is  descending  behind  the  last  dome  on  the 
western  range,  she  may  be  seen,  with  a  golden,  cloud-made  scarf, 
shaded  to  pale  pink,  that  finally  melts  into  a  ^2M-i.y  scrape,  which  height- 
ens the  mystical  charm  of  this  fascinating  mountain.  The  handmaid- 
ens of  the  sky  who  imperceptibly  decorate  this  sleeping  lady  live  and 
float  afar  off  in  the  realms  of  eternal  blue  ;  and  by  mysterious  instinct 
seem  to  know  when  she  will  look  more  lovely  with  a  change  of  her 
dainty  draperies.  Stretching  down  their  shadowy  fingers,  these  min- 
istering spirits  catch  up  the  fleecy  masses  of  clouds  as  they  hurry 
swiftly  along,  envelop  her  in  their  vapory  shroud,  and  imprint  kisses 
on  her  placid  brow,  and,  whispering  mournful  words  of  endearment, 
pass  silently  back  to  their  heavenly  home. 

Once,  on  a  visit  to  Tlalpam  *  I  glanced  into  the  clear  waters  of  a 
shimmering  lake.  Reflected  on  its  glassy  bosom  were  these  two 
mountains — peaceful,  snow-clad,  and  as  exquisitely  limned  under  the 
matchless  sky  as  though  the  water  was  a  canvas,  and  a  giant  master- 
painter  had  planned  and  painted  the  whole  grand  scene. 

The  immutable  laws  of  God  create  sublime  works  of  sculpture  and 
sublime  paintings.  Stand  afar  from  Smoking  Mountain  and  the 
Woman  in  White.  Stand  in  their  shadows,  when  the  sun  is  sinking 
behind  their  lofty  summits.     The  one  rises,  bold,  rugged,  misshapen, 

*  There  is  no  natural  lake  at  this  point,  but  the  heavy  rains  had  filled  the  valley  with 
water. 


TENOCHTITLAN—THE  AZIEC   CAPllAL.  IQ" 

and  chaotic.  It  may  be,  perchance,  once  on  a  time,  that  he  was  Hntced 
with  the  snow-white  and  pure  Iztaccihuatl ;  and  cliarmed  the  eye  as 
he  nobly  towered  over  her — the  two  one.  But  his  rude,  tumultuous 
violence  severed  from  his  side,  nevermore  to  again  return,  the  Woman 
in  White,  who  was  once  a  part  of  his  soulless  self.  His  mutterings 
were  heard  for  a  time  ;  but  the  fabled  anguigh  that  once  found  vent 
is  no  longer  heard  ;  his  grief  for  his  once  loved  Iztaccihuatl  is  hushed. 
Men  suffer  and  are  silent,  mountains  are  silent  but  suffer  not.  Men 
and  mountains  may  never  grieve,  because  they  may  be  alike  soulless. 
Contrasting  with  the  dark,  gloomy  cone  that  seems  to  scowl  on  the 
scene,  ever  ready  to  break  out  into  angry  thunders,  and  startle  the 
sleeping  world,  is  clearly  outlined  against  the  sky  the  Woman  in  White 
at  rest  upon  her  couch  in  the  peaceful  sleep  of  the  just  or  the  dead. 
Her  face  is  upturned  to  heaven,  white,  cold,  beautiful,  looking  into 
the  great  unknown  depths  of  the  sky,  smiling  in  her  hopes  of  the 
great  hereafter,  unmindful  of  the  grim,  misshapen  cone  that  towers 
from  afar. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


THE    MEXICANS    IN   THEIR    HOMES. 


F  the  Mexicans  Brantz  Mayer  wrote 
as  follows :  "  I  have  found 
them  kind,  gentle,  hospitable, 
intelligent,  benevolent,  and 
brave.  .  .  .  In  fact,  regard 
them  in  any  way,  and  they 
will  be  found  to  possess  the  ele- 
ments of  a  fine  people,  who 
want  but  peace  and  the  stimu- 
lus of  foreign  emulation  to  bring 
them  forward  among  the  nations 
of  the  earth  with  great  distinc- 
tion. .  .  .  There  are  of  course  in  Mexico,  as  in  all  countries, 
specimens  of  egotism,  selfishness,  haughtiness,  ill-breeding  and  loose 
morals,  both  among  the  men  and  the  women  ;  but.  although  we  find 
these  floating,  like  bubbles,  on  the  top  of  society,  they  must  not  there- 
fore be  considered  the  characteristics  of  the  country.  .  .  .  With 
domestic  virtue,  genius,  and  patriotism,  no  people  need  despair;  and 
it  should  be  the  prayer  of  every  republican  that  enough  of  these  still 
remain  in  Mexico  to  reconstruct  their  government  and  society." 

In  speaking  of  their  politeness,  Mayer  continues:  "The  'old 
school '  seems  to  have  taken  refuge  among  the  Mexicans.  They  are 
formally,  and,  I  think,  substantially,  the  politest  people  I  have  met 
with.  The  respect  for  age,  the  sincerity  of  friendship,  the  results  of 
reading  and  education,  and  the   honest,  unpretending  naturalness  of 


THE   MEXICANS  IX    THEIR  HOMES.  1 99 

character,  for  which,  over  all  other  people  I  have  ever  met,  I  think 
the  best  of  them  are  remarkable."  .  .  .  "The  fine  benevolence  of 
ancient  friendship,  the  universal  respect  for  genius,  a  competent 
knowledge  of  the  laws  and  institutions  of  other  countries,  a  perfect 
acquaintance  with  the  cause  of  Mexican  decadence,  and  a  charming 
regard  for  all  those  domestic  rites  which  cement  the  affections  of  a 
home  circle  may  all  be  observed  and  admired  within  the  walls  of  a 
Mexican  dwelling." 

*  Brantz  Mayer,  above  all  other  writers,  not  even  excepting 
Madame  Calderon  de  la  Barca,  has  observed  more  closely  and  written 
more  sympathetically  and  faithfully  of  Mexican  characteristics.  In 
dealing  with  this  subject,  it  will  be  understood  that  reference  is  had 
only  to  the  higher  and  more  cultured  classes  of  society. 

During  the  more  than  forty  years  intervening  since  this  dis- 
tinguished writer  gave  expression  to  these  views,  ten  years  only  of 
which  have  brought  to  Mexico  the  precious  boon  of  peace,  the 
changes  occurring  and  the  onward  march  of  events  in  that  country 
have  proved  the  correctness  of  his  assertions.  With  every  possible 
distracting  cause,  calculated  to  foster  and  encourage  ignoble  traits 
and  retrograde  ideas,  they  have  not  only  continued  brave  and 
patriotic,  but  their  social  and  domestic  institutions  have  remained 
sacredly  intact.  Let  the  unsympathizing  comment  as  they  may  upon 
the  hapless  fate  of  poor  Mexico,  it  is  not  to  be  gainsaid  that  perhaps 
no  country  in  the  world  has  politically  presented  a  more  desolate 
picture,  nor  yet  one  that  speaks  a  nobler  lesson. 

But  by  sympathetic  intuition  a  woman  attributes  to  the  women  of 
Me.xico  that  undercurrent  of  social  and  domestic  regeneration  which 
has  purified  and  preserved  her  institutions.  While  the  men  have 
been  engrossed  in  war  and  revolution,  with  their  train  of  direful  re- 
sults, the  women,  in  the  seclusion  of  their  homes,  have  kept  an  ever- 

*  Mexico  Its  it  Il'as  and  as  it  Is,  by  Mayer,  and  Madame  Barca's  Li/f  in  Mexico,  were 
published  about  the  same  time,  the  former  in  1844,  Madame  B.'s  in  1S43.  Mayer  was  Sec- 
retary of  the  American  Legation  under  the  Hon.  Powhatan  Ellis,  and  the  latter  was  the 
wife  of  the  first  Spanish  Minister  who  was  sent  to  Mexico  after  the  War  of  Independence. 


200  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH  THE  MEXICANS. 

faithful  watch  over  the  domestic  virtues,  and  the  happiness  and  wel- 
fare of  those  whom  God  has  given  them. 

In  repose,  there  is  in  the  eye  of  every  Mexican  an  expression  of 
deep  sadness  which  is  hardly  accounted  for  by  recent  history,  however 
tragic,  and  must  have  been  transmitted  to  the  race  through  the 
miseries  of  martial  conquests. 

It  has  occurred  to  me  that  the  women  have  inherited  a  larger 
portion  of  this  constitutional  melancholy  than  the  men.  I  have 
been  more  convinced  of  it  on  meeting  and  conversing  with  them  in 
their  own  homes.  When  the  death  of  a  member  of  the  family  was 
referred  to,  which  had  taken  place  years  before — perhaps  a  son  or  a 
husband  killed  in  battle — the  grief  seemed  as  deep  and  uncontrollable 
as  if  it  had  happened  on  that  day.  They  are  all  patriotic,  and  if  the 
country  suffers,  it  is  a  part  of  themselves,  and  is  reflected  in  their 
lives. 

The  Mexicans  are  by  nature  close  observers  of  physiognomy, 
and,  though  shy,  are  sharp  critics  of  the  bearing  of  strangers.  Their 
extreme  isolation  has  probably  added  to  the  natural  impulse.  It 
does  not  follow  that  they  criticise  adversely  ;  bat  they  weigh  one's 
lightest  syllable  in  their  own  balances.  Upon  their  first  coming  in 
contact  with  a  stranger,  they  expect  him  to  look  them  clearly  in  the 
face  ;  and  be  sure  they  are  watching  every  movement  and  expression 
with  the  keenest  suspicion.  Whatever  may  be  their  own  failings, 
they  are  wonderfully  endowed  with  the  power  to  "  fix  you  with  the 
eye  ;"  and  you  are  expected  to  meet  it  bravely,  and  not  to  quail  under 
the  penetrating  glance.  To  an  infinite  degree  are  the  women  expert 
in  reading  character,  probably  more  so  than  our  own  more  world- 
experienced  and  educated  countrywomen. 

It  is  no  matter  of  surprise  that  they  are  distrustful  of  strangers, 
when  the  most  they  have  known  of  them  has  been  in  the  way  of 
armed  forces  seeking  to  crush  out  their  national  existence.  Their 
hospitality,  too,  having  so  often  met  with  unwarrantable  criticism 
personally  and  in  the  press,  they  cannot  be  expected  to  welcome  the 
stranger  over  their  threshold  without  caution  and  misgiving. 


THE    MEXICANS  IN    THEIR    HOMES.  20I 

A  kindly  and  sympathetic  warmth  is  alvvays  heartily  reciprocated, 
while  coldness  at  once  repels.  To  desire  their  friendship  is  to  de- 
serve it,  especially  if  the  wish  be  tempered  by  the  observance  of  the 
golden  rule.  No  people  are  better  aware  of  their  national,  political, 
and  social  defects,  but,  being  sensitive,  nervous,  and  very  proud,  an 
adverse  criticism  from  the  thoughtless  and  ungenerous  stranger 
naturally  wounds,  and  induces  that  reserve  which  is  so  largely  na- 
tional, and  which  it  is  so  difficult  to  overcome.  When  a  disposition 
is  manifested  to  meet  them  on  equal  terms  of  friendly  good-will, 
and  proper  deference  is  shown  to  their  customs,  it  will  be  found  that 
no  people  are  more  delightful,  socially,  more  faithful  as  friends,  or 
more  ready  to  serve  the  stranger  from  whatever  land,  than  the 
Mexicans. 

Hospitality  is  one  of  the  national  characteristics,  but  it  is  of  a 
nature  peculiar  to  itself,  and,  contrary  to  our  customs,  the  latch-string 
hangs  on  the  inside,  for  the  court  circles  of  Europe  are  not  more  ex- 
clusive than  the  higher  classes  of  society  in  Mexico.  The  architect- 
ure of  the  houses — their  barred  windows  and  well-guarded  doors, 
which  prevent  intrusion  from  prying  curiosity — together  with  the 
climate  and  customs,  conspire  to  incline  the  people  to  lead  exclu- 
sive lives.  It  is  manifested  even  in  the  choice  of  vehicles,  closed  car- 
riage being  almost  invariably  used,  though  with  such  air  and  skies 
the  reverse  might  naturally  be  expected.  The  first  aspiration,  with 
them,  is  to  make  home  beautiful,  and  to  this  end  every  element  of  a 
cultured  and  refined  taste  is  duly  provided  and  cared  for  within  the 
massive  doors.  The  exquisite  beauty  of  the  rare  and  gorgeous  flowers 
in  tlie  patios  affords  constant  pleasure  by  day,  while  by  night  tliey  have 
only  to  glance  upward  to  obtain  wondrous  visions  of  a  star-gemmed 
firmament. 

Letters  of  introduction,  even,  will  not  always  secure  access  to  the 
inner  circle  of  the  home  life.  Comparatively  speaking,  few  are 
accorded  this  privilege.  But  when  once  admitted  by  personal  friends, 
especially  if  accompanied  by  them  on  the  first  visit,  all  formality  and 
reserve  are  at  an  end,  and  the  most  gracious  attentions  are  freely  be- 


202  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS- 

stowed,  the  veriest  stranger  feeling  that  he  is  no  longer  such.  A 
genuine  glow  of  pleasure  has  often  been  mine  on  finding  that  their 
inborn  distrust  of  foreigners  had  melted  away  in  my  first  intercourse 
with  them.  On  passing  many  handsome  houses  in  the  large  cities, 
and  halting  to  admire  the  beauty  and  luxuriance  of  the  flowers  in  the 
court,  on  seeing  me  the  gentle  voice  of  the  ducua  dc  la  casa  (lady  of 
the  house)  would  bid  me  enter  and  inspect  them  to  my  satisfaction. 
When  this  was  done,  and  my  hands  filled  with  flowers,  I  was  invited 
to  the  sala,  chocolate  ordered,  and  on  departing — certain  we  would 
never  meet  again — a  warm  embrace,  a  cordial  shake  of  the  hand,  and 
a  "Vaya  V.  con  Dios !  "  ("God  be  with  you  "),  heartily  given. 

They  are  endowed  by  nature  with  a  highly  nervous  and  sensitive 
organization,  with  jealousy  for  a  birthright ;  and  amongst  intimate 
friends  of  their  own  nationality  they  are  easily  offended,  but  less  so 
with  foreigners.  And  I  have  observed  that  the  higher  the  altitude 
the  more  evident  are  these  tendencies,  attributable,  probably,  to  both 
climate  and  elevation. 

Much  as  the  Mexicans  love  their  homes,  their  language  contains 
no  word  expressive  of  the  meaning  of  the  word  "  home."  They  have 
only  casa  (house),  and  hogar,  but  little  used  and  lacking  euphony. 
Another  fact — the  absence  of  chimneys,  depriving  them  of  the  pleas- 
ures of  the  fireside,  renders  it  only  natural  that  they  should  seek 
diversion  outside.  The  balmy  air  invites  them  to  life  al  fresco,  con- 
sequently the  morning  promenade,  which  usually  includes  the  mass  at 
church,  the  afternoon  drive,  and  perhaps  the  theater  at  niglit,  consti- 
tute their  chief  sources  of  outdoor  recreation  and  amusement. 

No  people  more  eminently  possess  the  faculty  of  entertaining 
their  friends  in  a  royally  hospitable  way.  An  assemblage  of  five  hun- 
dred guests  is  as  well  taken  care  of  as  fifty,  and  no  one  feels  neglected. 
They  are  convivial  and  joyous,  mingling  freely  with  one  and  all ;  gay 
sallies  of  wit  and  sparkling  repartee  rule  the  hour.  But,  at  the  same 
time,  a  remarkable  dignity  characterizes  their  every  movement. 

In  the  majority  of  the  towns  and  cities  the  ringing  of  the  cathe- 
dral bells,  at  ten  o'clock,  calls  the  people  from  their  places  of  recrea- 


ENTRANCE    TO    A    MEXICAN     HOME. 


THE   MEXICANS  IN    THEIK   HOMES.  205 

tion  to  their  homes,  and  the  streets  become  as  quiet  and  silent  as  the 
campo  santo  (grave-yard). 

In  all  their  professions  of  friendship,  I  have  found  them  frank  and 
sincere,  and  untiring  in  their  demonstrations  to  the  favored  person 
who  has  won  their  regard.  While  this  sincerity  is  unquestionable, 
they  are  yet  gifted  in  a  high  degree  with  the  prett)'  art  of  evasion. 
Let  one  who  has  had  trouble  confide  in  them,  and  let  them  be  but 
fully  convinced  that  they  are  the  trusted  custodians  of  such  confidence, 
and  nothing  can  induce  them  to  betray  the  trust  so  reposed.  The 
penalty  of  severest  punishment  cannot  wring  from  them  a  secret  in- 
trusted to  them.  But  by  the  dainty  manipulation  of  their  admirable 
tact  and  diplomacy,  the  inquirer  is  satisfied  and  not  one  syllable  be- 
trayed. As  well  try  to  make  an  incision  in  the  side  of  Popocatapetl 
with  a  penknife  as  extract  from  a  Mexican  what  he  does  not  want  to 
tell  you. 

It  is  asserted  by  some  writers  that  there  is  no  middle  class.  It  is 
my  opinion,  founded  upon  careful  observation  and  inquiry,  that  there 
is  not  only  at  this  time  a  very  large  and  influential  middle  class,  but 
that  every  year  it  gains  large  accessions  from  the  humbler  class,  who 
are  making  giant  strides  to  a  nobler  place  in  life  through  the  fine 
educational  advantages  now  afforded  them.  In  this  connection  I 
must  say  that,  while  access  to  the  higher  strata  of  society  is  difficult, 
the  middle  class  vie  with  them  in  their  hospitality,  never  turning  a 
stranger  from  their  doors,  and  some  of  the  most  delightful  acts  of 
courtesy  and  kindness  that  I  ever  met  with  in  that  country  have  been 
extended  me  by  the  ever  faithful  and  gentle  middle  class.  With 
them  letters  of  introduction  are  unnecessary. 

They  may  not  own  their  homes,  but  there  is  an  air  of  pretty  neat- 
ness about  their  houses  ;  an  unobstructed  freedom,  a  gentleness  of 
manner,  which  I  say  unqualifiedly  is  not  equaled  anywhere.  It  is 
from  this  class  that  are  springing  up  every  year  men  of  genius  and 
talent,  of  unremitting  toil  and  study,  which  will  enable  them  to  take 
that  honored  station  in  their  chosen  field  of  labor  which,  in  all  coun- 
tries, is  the  reward  of  untiring  patience  and  fidelity  to  any  cause. 


2o6  FACE    TO   FACE    HFTH    THE    MEXICAA'S. 

The  forms  of  greeting  and  salutation  are  numerous,  and  among 
tliem  none  is  so  distinctively  national  as  the  abrazo.  Men  fall  into 
each  other's  arms  and  remain  thus  for  several  minutes,  patting  each 
other  on  the  shoulder  and  indulging  in  all  sorts  of  endearing  epithets. 

Another  form,  rather  less  diffuse,  may  be  seen  any  time  on  the 
street  and  promenade,  not  only  among  men,  but  also  between  friends 
of  opposite  sex.  In  the  quickest,  most  spirited  manner,  the  arms  of 
both  parties  are  outstretched  ;  they  rush  together  for  a  second,  their 
breasts  barely  touch,  and  while  the  observer  is  watching  for  a  kiss  to 
follow  this  ardent  salute,  they  separate  and  the  abrazo  is  finished. 
The  extreme  frankness  accompanying  it  compels  one  to  rather  ad- 
mire the  custom  ;  for  it  means  no  more  than  hand-shaking  among 
Americans. 

A  mere  introduction  between  men  assumes  elaborate  proportions. 
Sefior  Calderon  says:  "  I  have  the  honor  to  present  to  you  my  friend, 
Sefior  Ojeda,  a  merchant  of  this  city ; "  whereupon  Seflor  Ojeda 
replies:     "Your   obedient  servant.     Your  house   (meaning   his  own) 

is   in  Street,   where    I   am   at  your  orders   for  all   that  you  may 

wish  ;  "  or,  "  My  house  is  mny  a  su  disposicion  "  ("'  entirely  at  your 
disposal ;  make  yourself  at  home  "). 

From  this  profusion  of  politeness,  doubtless,  has  arisen  the  im- 
pression that  the  Mexicans  are  devoid  of  sincerity ;  when  in  truth  the 
recipient  of  such  offers  would  alone  deceive  himself  should  he  suppose 
that  the  Mexican  proposed  to  make  him  a  gift  of  his  house. 

Hand-shaking  goes  to  extremes.  If  friends  meet  twenty  times  a 
day,  the  ceremony  must  be  gone  through  as  often. 

It  is  not  sufficient  for  gentlemen  merely  to  touch  the  hat-brim,  in 
passing  each  other  or  aqy  friend  ;  but  the  hat  is  removed  entirely 
from  the  head,  whether  driving,  riding,  or  walking.  I  noticed  a  little 
pantomime  they  go  through  when  one  gives  a  light  to  another.  He 
draws  his  right  hand  quickly  to  his  breast,  in  a  second  extends  it  out- 
ward, tipping  his  hat-brim  three  times,  which  is  all  repeated  by  the  one 
who  has  lighted  his  cigar. 

I    saw    on   Calle   Plateros,   one    day,  two  splendid  carriages  each 


THE  MEXICANS  IN    THEIR    HOMES.  207 

occupied  by  one  man.  On  seeing  each  other,  the  carriages  were 
halted,  both  alighted,  removed  hats,  shook  hands,  embraced,  talked 
for  a  few  moments,  again  embraced,  shook  hands,  bowed,  took  off 
hats,  and  each  entered  his  carriage  and  went  his  way. 

Among  women  the  salutation  assumes  a  more  confidential  form  ; 
the  stranger  receives  a  gentle  tap  of  the  right  hand  upon  the  left 
shoulder,  and  then  a  generous  shake  of  the  hand  ;  while  more  inti- 
mate friends  not  only  tap  each  other,  but  also  kiss,  not  on  the  lips, 
however,  merely  laying  the  cheeks  softly  together.  The  Mexican 
mode  is  to  be  commended. 

A  lady  admires  some  ornament  or  article  of  wearing  apparel ; 
instantly  the  possessor  gracefully  informs  her  it  is  "  muy  a  sic  ordcn  " 
("  at  your  orders  ").  Changing  residence  requires  that  cards  be  sent 
announcing  the  fact,  and  placing  it  "  wwj'  a  s//  ordcn"  otherwise 
visiting  ceases.  Young  babies  are  also  placed  "  tnuv  a  su  orden."  In 
writing  notes  of  invitation,  the  Mexican  lady  always  closes  with, 
"  We  will  expect  you  here,  at  such  an  hour,  at  your  house." 

A  vein  of  sentiment  and  poetry,  however,  runs  through  every 
detail  of  their  lives,  which  forms  the  motive  power  of  that  fastidious 
nicety  which  regulates  social  intercourse.  A  spray  of  flowers  sent  as 
a  token  w  11  be  first  pinned  over  the  heart,  the  pin  left  in  it,  indicat- 
ing the  pledge  as  a  part  of  the  personality  of  the  donor,  hence  more 
sacred  ;  or  a  note  may  contain  a  pansy,  with  a  dainty  motto  inscribed 
on  its  petals. 

In  letter  writing  or  in  making  a  formal  acknowledgment,  polite- 
ness and  high-bred  courtesy  govern  ;  even  the  President  would  make 
himself  the  individual  under  obligation. 

No  gifts  are  made  at  Christmas,  but  on  "El  Alio  Niicvo"  ("The 
New  Year")  tokens  of  all  sorts  and  kinds,  and  cards,  are  sent  to 
friends,  with  " fclicilacioncs." 

Visiting  is  the  same  as  in  all  well-regulated  society,  e.xcept  that 
strangers  must  send  their  cards  and  make  the  first  call.  A  short  visit 
is  not  appreciated,  as  it  would  indicate  coldness  and  formality. 
Everything  is  given   up  to  the  guest,  let  the  time  be  long  or  short, 


208  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

and  a  Mexican  lady  never  continues  the  performance  of  any  duty, 
however  urgent,  or  engages  in  anything  that  would  distract  her  atten- 
tion from  her  guests. 

On  entering  a  Mexican  home,  after  an  absence  of  months  or  years, 
if  you  are  an  old  friend,  the  reception  you  meet  with  is  overwhelm- 
ingly joyful.  Every  member  of  the  household  in  turn  gives  you  an 
embrace  ;  you  are  seated  on  the  right-hand  end  of  the  sofa,  and  then 
a  thousand  kind  inquiries  follow  in  regard  to  relatives,  and  many  in- 
terchanges of  thought  and  incidents  that  have  occurred  in  your  absence. 
You  are  allowed  to  do  nothing  for  yourself,  for  the  entire  family, 
from  the  least  to  the  greatest,  perform  a  part  in  entertaining  and 
making  you  feel  at  home. 

But  it  is  a  difficult  point  in  Mexican  etiquette,  that  of  seating 
visitors.  Guest  and  host  vie  with  each  other  in  politeness,  and  some- 
times several  minutes  are  occupied  in  this  courteous  contest. 

On  leaving,  the  visitor  is  always  entreated  to  remain  longer,  but 
when  he  must  go,  they  "  speed  the  parting  guest  "  with  all  the  fervor 
with  which  he  is  received. 

Gentlemen  bow  first  on  the  street,  but  ladies  have  tiie  advantage 
in  the  house  ;  for  even  if  the  President  were  to  call,  the  lady  of  the 
house  is  not  expected  to  rise  from  her  seat  to  receive  him. 

In  walking,  ladies  hold  the  right  arm  of  the  gentleman.  The  right- 
hand  side  of  the  back  seat  of  a  carriage,  and  the  right-hand  end  of  a 
sofa,  are  the  places  of  honor  reserved  for  the  guest. 

At  balls  introductions  are  not  necessary  for  gentlemen  to  ask  ladies 
to  dance,  and  in  private  houses  all  are  supposed  to  be  ladies  and 
gentlemen. 

A  lady  retains  her  maiden  name  in  marriage,  and  her  visiting  cards 
are  engraved  with  her  own  name  with  the  prefix  of  dc  before  her  hus- 
band's— as,  Josefina  Bros  de  Riva  Palacio.  Madame  de  Iturbide,  as 
known  in  the  United  States  and  Europe,  in  Mexico  is  simply  Alicia 
G.  de   Iturbide. 

It  is  better  for  foreigners  to  have  visiting  cards  engraved  after  the 
fashion  of  the  country  if  they  intend  mingling  with  Mexican  society. 


THE   MEXICAXS   IN    THEIR   HOMES.  20() 

Mexicans  are  as  fastidious  in  the  style  and  quality  of  paper  and 
envelopes  as  in  everything  else  ;  even  the  minutest  detail  is'de  rigcur. 
In  high  society,  only  the  finest  paper,  with  monogram  in  gold  or  silver, 
or  elaborately  engraved  with  the  name  inside  the  monogram,  is  se- 
lected. Some  of  the  daintiest  informal  little  notes  I  have  seen,  passed 
between  lady  friends — written  on  the  finest  paper,  and  then  by  deft 
fingers  folded  in  the  form  of  a  leaf  or  flower,  with  the  address  on  one 
tiny  petal.  In  all  correspondence  the  riibrica  or  fir  ma  must  be  used; 
neither  the  nature  of  what  is  written,  nor  the  name,  has  any  signifi- 
cance without  the  peculiar  flourish  beneath.  This  is  taught  in  the 
schools,  and  the  more  elaborate  the  better.  The  riibrica  is  a  receipt, 
a  part  of  every  business  obligation  or  social  correspondence.  Every 
public  document  closes  with  ''Libcrtad  y  Indcpendencia"  ox  ^'Libcrtad 
en  la  Constitution"  and  in  sending  an  agent  to  a  foreign  country,  every 
document  relating  to  the  business  bears  his  photograph — perhaps  a 
wise  precaution. 

In  exchanging  photographs,  it  is  customary  to  dedicate  them  with 
a  pretty  sentiment  or  verse,  and  the  date — not  infrequently  the  age, 
also — is  added. 

Smoking  publicly  is  not  now  customary  with  senoritas,  but  I  have 
been  told  they  indulge  in  this  harmless  and,  with  them,  graceful  pas- 
time in  private.  Matrons  smoke  without  reserve,  and  as  a  matter  of 
course,  men  are  habituate'd  to  the  indulgence  everywhere — no  place  in 
the  house  being  exempt  from  the  odor  of  the  cigarette.  Pipes  are  not 
used,  and  a  delightful  offset  to  smoking  is  that  there  is  no  chewing. 

Many  of  their  forms  of  daily  and  general  politeness  may  seem 
empty  and  meaningless  ;  but  there  is  no  more  insincerit)'  intended 
than  in  some  of  our  own  social  small  coin.  It  will  be  borne  in  mind 
also  that  these  are  not  the  characteristics  of  cities  or  city  people,  but 
belong  equally  to  smaller  towns  and  villages.  In  mingling  with  the 
people,  their  hospitalities  and  courtesies  should  be  received  in  the 
same  kindly  spirit  in  which  they  are  given. 

Even  in  the  country,  on  lonely  haciendas,  ever_ything  is  free  and 
open-handed.       Your  servants  have  the  freedom  of  the  kitchen  and 


2IO  FACE    TO   FACE     IV/JH    THE    .VEX/CAJVS. 

stables,  the  host  gives  up  to  you  his  place  at  the  table,  and  often,  on 
resuming  the  journey,  will  ride  half  a  day,  to  lead  you  safely  through 
some  mountain  defile  or  dangerous,  bandit-infested  place — and  tlien 
the  parting  is  as  earnest  and  as  zealous  as  word  and  manner  can 
make  it. 

Natives  of  climes  more  frigid  may  contrast  the  formal  bow,  the  re- 
straint and  stiffness  of  a  possible  shake  of  the  hand,  and  the  greeting 
commonly  observed  by  their  own  countrymen,  with  the  native  ease 
and  graceful  cordiality  to  be  met  with  here.  Hence,  an  introduction 
into  a  select  circle  in  Mexico  makes  a  never-to-be-forgotten  episode  in 
the  life  of  the  favored  stranger,  cementing  the  ties  which  bind  him  to 
the  countr}-. 

Wherever  the  fates  may  direct  him,  he  will  often  experience  a 
yearning  to  revisit  a  land  where  he  was  ever  the  recipient  of  a  gra- 
cious courtesy  scarcely  to  be  found  elsewhere.  But  few  Mexicans, 
save  those  in  diplomatic  service,  take  up  their  permanent  residence 
in  other  countries,  especially  among  the  Anglo-Saxons.  The  coldness 
and  formality  they  there  encounter  freeze  their  own  warm  and  cordial 
manner. 

Like  the  Frenchman,  the  Mexican  talks  quite  as  much  with  hands 
and  eyes  as  with  his  tongue.  He  shrugs  also,  but  not  so  unceas- 
ingly as  his  brother  Latin. 

These  gestures  are  rendered  very  attractive  by  the  appropriate 
and  graceful  manner  in  which  they  are  used.  They  are  seen  as  much 
in  the  street  or  horse-cars  as  in  the  house. 

One  of  the  prettiest  and  most  cunning  of  all  the  hand  motions  is 
called  Bcso  Soplado,  throwing  kisses  by  gathering  the  finger  of  the 
right  hand  in  a  close  group,  touching  the  lips,  then  throwing  them 
out  fan-like,  at  the  same  time  blowing  on  the  hand  as  it  is  outstretched 
toward  the  object  for  whom  the  demonstration  is  intended,  thus  indi- 
cating that  five  kisses  are  given  at  once. 

Illustration  No.  i  of  these  movements,  "  un  moiiiciitito,"  signifies 
the  desire  to  postpone  a  departure  or  return,  or  the  performance  of 
some  duty,    then    necessary.       In    a  twinkling    the  taper  fingers    ex- 


THE   MEXICAXS  IN    THEIR   HOMES. 

'  One     little 


2\  I 


press   this    without     uttering     a    word, 
moment !  "   Everybody  uses  it. 

No.  2.    ''El  no   quicrc  gastar   diiicro"     ("  He    owes 
money  but  is  very  stingy,  and  from  not  using    it  to  get 
the  money,  out   of    his  pocket,  his   arm   has   grown    too 
stiff    to    reach    into    his    pocket    for    the    money,  consequently  he  is 
unable  to  pay  his  debts  "). 

No.  3.  "  Muy  bicenviolinista"  literally  means  one  who  plays  well  on 
the  violin,  but  in  this  instance  he  plays,  instead,  on  the  credulity  and 


NO.   I.  "  ONE   LITTLE 
MOMENT." 


NO.    2.        HE    IS  TOO    STINGY 
TO    PAY    HIS    DEBTS."' 


NO.    3.    *'  HE    PLAYS  ON   THE   CRE 
DULIT\'    OF  HIS   FRIENDS." 


verdancy  of  his  friends.  He  plays  ofT  on  them  by  inviting  himself  to 
dine  with  them,  having  little  or  nothing  to  eat  at  home,  thus  support- 
ing himself  on  their  involuntary  hospitality. 

No.  4.  "  Time  bastantc  dincro  "  ( "  He  or  she  has  plenty  of  money  "). 
No.  5.  "  Miij'  critico/o"  ("It  is  quite  doubtful  in  my  mind").  I 
have  seen  three  persons  in  conversation,  one  being 
/^S*^  engaged  in  relating  some  circumstance  or  event,  the 
'^-//  otlier  two  paying  marked  attention.  When  at  length  the 
'vj"/  narrator  made  a  digression  from  facts,  or  added  a  few 
^l^*-'  /  embellishing  touches,  one  of  the  listeners,  without  speak- 
'^     '         ing  a  word,  but  throwing  a  world  of  expression  into  her 

NO.  4.  "  she's  VERY  .  ,,  ,  ,.  .,  J^..!  ^■ 

RICH,  HAS  PLENTY    cycs,  tosscd   lier  head  to  one  side,  and  at  the  same  time 
OF  MONEY."       planting  the  forefinger  of  the  right  hand  on  the  temple, 

the  little  boring   process  is  gone  through,  and  the  unspoken  language 
14 


212 


FACE     TO    FACE    WJ'IH    THE    MEXICANS. 


has  conveyed   also  the   thought    of   the  other  listener,  and  both  are 
happy. 


NO.    5.    A    VERY   GREAT 
CRITIC. 


NO.  6.  "adios." 


No.  6.  "  Adios,"  the  universal  good-bye,  or  in  saluting  an  acquaint- 
ance then  passing. 

No.  7.  "  He's  a  sharper  !  Don't  you  trust  him  !  He'll  deceive  and 
cheat  you  without  mercy." 

No.  8.   Salutation    in   the  street,  or  from   a  fair  Juliet  in    her  win- 


NO.  7.  "HE  S  A  SHARPER. 


NO.  8.  SALUTATION  FROM  BALCONY. 


dovv ;  one  of  the  most  graceful  and  beautiful  of  the  endless  sign- 
manual.  It  will  be  seen  that  it  is  the  middle  and  third  fingers  only 
that  move  rapidly  back  and  forth,  and  not  the  whole  hand. 

No.  9.  "  A'o  cs  costu7nbrc" — literally  an  expression  of  negation, 
so  named  from  impressions  received  during  my  first  sojourn  in  the 
country.  Even  children  in  their  play  use  it  when  wishing  to  say, 
"  You   can't   do  that   now,   I   sha'n't  play  with  you." 


THE   MEXICAXS  IN   THEIR  HOMES. 


213 


NO.    9.    "  VOU    can't   do    that 

now/' 


An  irrevocable  edict  has  gone  forth  when  that  prophetic  lorefiniier 
goes  upward  and  outward    before  the  end  of  the 
nose.  The  laws  of  the  Medes  and  Persians  maybe 
evaded,  but  "  no  cs  costzanbre  "  never. 

In  no  country  are  family  ties  stronger.  The 
thought  of  separation  is  to  them  fraught  with  un- 
speakable anguish,  and  even  after  marriage  it  is 
not  unusual  to  see  half  a  dozen  families  living  in 
the  same  house,  daughters  with  their  husbands 
and  sons  with  their  wives  remaining  under  the 
paternal  roof.  The  time  never  comes  in  the  lives 
of  the  parents  when  the  children  are  not  more 
or  less  amenable  to  them.  Grown  sons  and  daughters  do  not  forget 
the  respect  and  obedience  that  were  expected  of  them  when  children. 
The  reverence  for  parents  goes  with  them  in  their  wedded  lives,  and 
even  increases  with  the  lapse  of  years.  A  man  never  grows  too  old 
to  kiss  the  hands  of  his  aged  parents  or  to  visit  them  every  day  if 
they  reside  in  the  same  city,  and  the  daughters  do  the  same. 

When  the  marital  knot  is  tied,  the  women  accommodate  them- 
selves to  whatever  fate  may  have  in  store  for  them  with  that  grace 
and  fortitude  which  belong  to  them,  rarely  equaled  and  never  sur- 
passed. The  time  never  comes  in  which  they  feel  their  burdens  too 
great  to  be  borne  with  patience. 

They  go  but  little  into  society  or  mixed  assemblages,  consequently 
their  earthly  happiness  is  summed  up  in  home,  husband,  children. 
Their  outward  deportment  corresponds  with  the  interior  calm. 
Whether  riding,  driving,  or  walking,  they  always  retain  a  decorum  and 
dignity  of  manner  peculiar  to  themselves.  To  express  emotion  or  sur- 
prise in  public  is  not  considered  becoming. 

In  all  my  intercourse  with  them,  I  have  seen  but  two  who  used  the 
trenchant  weapon  of  sarcasm  ;  in  their  hands  it  cut  like  a  two-edged 
sword,  and  in  each  case  their  own  countrymen  were  the  victims. 

Among  the  earliest  lessons  of  Christianity  inculcated  by  the  Fran- 
ciscan missionaries  were  love,  charity,  and  self-denial,  and  the  outcome 


2  14  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

of  these  teachings  of  nearly  four  centuries  may  be  seen  to-day  in  the 
beautiful  graces  and  charities  of  the  Mexican  women.  These  high 
lessons,  exemphfied  in  the  lives  of  the  teachers,  were  received  grate- 
fully and  practiced  faithfully  by  the  warm-hearted  people.  To  feed 
the  hungry,  clothe  the  naked,  relieve  the  distressed,  and  entertain  the 
stranger—  surely  there  is  no  nobler  mission  ! 

Every  battle-field  on  their  soil  has  left  its  records  of  their  tender 
devotion  to  '•  prisoners  and  captives,"  without  regard  to  name  or 
nationality.  Our  American  soldiers,  when  in  an  enemy's  country, 
with  death  staring  them  in  the  face,  have  borne  grateful  witness  to 
their  patient  and  tireless  nursing.  The  Texas  and  Santa  Fe  Expe- 
dition, in  1841,  written  by  George  Wilkins  Kendall,  fully  portrays 
the  kindnesses  of  these  noble-hearted  women.  In  a  march  of  two 
thousand  miles,  from  Santa  F^,  in  New  Mexico,  to  the  capital,  the 
condition  of  the  unhappy  prisoners  was  everywhere  ameliorated 
by  the  women,  who,  moved  by  pity,  never  failed  to  bring  them  food 
— the  best  they  had — and  on  every  opportunity  tenderly  cared  for  the 
sick  and  foot-sore  Americans. 

But,  before  the  dawn  of  Christianity  in  Mexico,  the  women  prac- 
ticed a  noble  order  of  charity.  When  Netssaliiialeoyotl,  the  young 
prince  of  Tezcuco,  was  fleeing  from  his  enemies,  weary  and  dust- 
stained,  he  suddenly  found  himself  in  the  presence  of  a  young  girl 
who  was  reaping  chia  in  the  fields.  He  hastily  informed  her  of  his 
danger  and  entreated  her  aid.  She  was  moved  to  pity,  and,  telling 
hiin  to  lie  down,  covered  him  with  leaves  and  stalks  of  the  maguey. 
When  his  pursuers  came  up,  they  inquired  if  she  had  seen  him.  "  Yes," 
she  replied,  "he  has  gone  by  yon  road,"  pointing  in  tlie  opposite 
direction — which  saved  him. 

Although  there  are  hospitals,  homes,  and  public  charities  in  every 
city,  still  there  are  not  only  numerous  beggars,  but  blind,  maimed,  and 
distressed  persons — real  objects  of  charity — seeking  aid  from  the  more 
fortunate  members  of  society.  Assistance  is  never  denied ;  even 
little  children  take  by  the  hand,  with  the  sympathetic  " pohrecito  !  " 
("  poor  creature  "),  and  lead  into  the  house,  some  poor  creature  to  be 


THE   MEXICANS  IN    THEIR   HOMES.  21 5 

fed  and  cared  for,  having  been  taught  to  pity  and  never  to  ridicule 
or  despise  personal  afflictions. 

The  housekeeper  is  supplied  with  home  remedies,  that  she  may 
give  effect  to  her  charitable  interest  in  the  sick  and  miserable.  In 
many  places,  ladies  of  high  position  on  a  saint's  day  will  unite  in 
giving  a  dinner  to  the  poor.  Each  one  contributes  to  the  feast,  and 
then,  with  her  daughters  and  friends,  waits  on  the  squalid  guests. 
Theatrical  and  musical  entertainments  are  also  frequently  given  for 
charitable  purposes. 

Poverty,  while  greatly  to  be  deplored,  is  not  considered  a  disgrace. 
Almost  every  wealthy  family  has  its  full  quota  of  poor  relations,  who 
in  many  instances  fill  the  places  of  housekeeper  or  upper  servants. 
But  at  the  same  time  they  are  provided  for  comfortably  and  kindly. 
Even  where  means  are  limited,  it  is  common  to  see  in  a  household 
several  children  outside  the  immediate  family  taken  from  time  to  time, 
and  cared  for  by  the  tender-hearted  lady  of  the  house. 

Two  of  the  most  interesting  young  people  whose  acquaintance  I 
made  at  the  capital  were  the  descendants  of  a  humble  Indian  woman. 
With  her  sick  babe,  only  a  month  old,  lying  in  her  rcbozo,  homeless 
and  unfriended,  she  trudged  through  the  rain  at  dusk.  A  charitable 
lady,  from  the  interior  of  a  luxurious  home,  witnessed  the  scene,  and 
calling  the  woman,  took  the  babe  to  her  heart  as  if  it  were  her  own. 
She  proposed  to  her  to  adopt  the  child,  promising  a  mother's  care. 
The  trust  was  sacredl)-  kept,  and  although  this  lady  afterward 
became  the  mother  of  fifteen  children,  the  poor  waif  was  one  of  the 
many,  and  developed  into  a  lovely  woman.  She  married  an  accom- 
plished gentleman  and  bore  several  children,  but  to  the  day  of  her 
death  she  knew  nothing  of  her  origin. 

The  religious  observances,  as  well  as  the  customs  of  the  country, 
are  kept  up  mainly  by  the  women.  The  men  naturally  become  more 
cosmopolitan  through  travel  and  contact  and  intercourse  with  the 
outside  world.  But  whatever  the  cause,  scarcely  a  man  of  educa- 
tion can  be  found  who  does  not  proclaim  himself  a  deist  or  an 
atheist. 


2  l6 


FACE    TO    FACE    U'lTlI    THE    MEXICANS. 


But  if  a  long  illness  ensue,  or  death  appear  inevitable,  the  priest 
and  the  holy  sacrament  are  at  once  ordered.  So  I  have  come  to  the 
conclusion  that  they  consider  the  expression  of  irreligious  sentiments 
when   in  health  indicative  of  liberal   ideas,  and  showing  a  sympathy 

with  the  "  advanced  "  thought 
of  the  age.  While  they  adopt 
the  theory  that  "  the  first  req- 
uisite of  man  is  to  be  a  good 
animal,"  in  the  hour  of  trial 
they  fall  back  on  the  time- 
honored  consolations. 

But,  despite  their  lack  of 
creed  or  religious  faith,  there 
is  one  respect  in  which  hus- 
bands of  other  nations  might 
learn  from  them  a  profitable 
lesson.  They  generously  be- 
lieve that  their  wives  are  fully 
entitled  to  an  equal  share  of 
their  business  profits  and  to 
the  expending  of  their  income. 
The  wife  is  not  subjected  to 
the  humiliation  of  begging  a 
pittance,  but  the  whole  matter 
is  left  to  her  own  good  judg- 
ment. 

It  is  only  justice  to  say 
that  courtesy  and  kindness  are  almost  invariably  with  them  the  rule 
in  the  family. 

It  is  a  knightly  spirit  which  impels  the  men  to  the  belief  that  their 
women  are  not  capable  of  sustaining  the  burdens  of  life.  And  when 
a  man  marries,  if  his  wife  have  a  widowed  mother  and  sisters  without 
means  of  support,  it  never  occurs  to  him  that  it  is  not  his  dut)'  to 
keep    and    maintain   tlicm.      These   offices   they  cheerfully  accept  as 


I^TERIOK    OF    LHAfRL    ON     iHE     HACIENDA    OF     SKNORA 
GUADAI-UPE     BROS. 


THE    MEXICANS  IN    THEIR    HOMES.  Z\- 

an  hereditary  right,  without  regard  to  the  attainments  or  accnm- 
phshments  which  might  be  turned  to  account. 

This  chivalric  conduct  extends  stiU  further,  in  view  of  tiie  fact 
that  estates  of  orphans  and  widows  are  administered  with  much  care 
and  honest  effort.  No  dread  Nemesis  pursues  the  Mexican  in  the 
form  of  a  mother-in-law,  for,  even  if  there  be  room  for  criticism,  she 
may  counsel,  but  she  never  interferes. 

In  many  homes  I  have  seen  the  husband  regularly,  three  times  a 
day,  bring  from  the  court-yard  a  flower  to  lay  on  the  wife's  plate. 
And  such  little  attentions  are  not  meaningless.  I  have  also  know  n 
many  instances  where  the  husband  fondly  insisted  on  the  wife  placing 
herself  at  the  table,  so  that  she  might  be  excused  from  serving  either 
the  soup  or  coffee — saying,  "  The  care  of  the  children  was  enough  for 
her."    , 

There  is  little  or  no  intoxication  among  them.  At  the  club  or  in 
their  homes  they  may  imbibe  too  freely,  but  the  effects  are  never 
apparent  in  the  street. 

In  social  life  there  are  certainly  no  more  agreeable  companions  than 
educated  Mexican  gentlemen,  and  they  are  still  more  delightful  when 
one  comes  to  know  them  intimately  upon  the  basis  of  friendship, 
time  and  means  being  alike  at  one's  disposal ;  and  wherever  fate  may 
lead,  they  follow  the  fortunes  of  their  friends. 

One  American  family  whom  I  knew  were  kindly  conveyed  on  their 
journey  of  five  hundred  miles,  over  a  rough  and  barren  country,  and 
nothing  would  induce  the  generous  Mexican  to  receive  one  cent  in 
compensation  ;  and  further,  the  moso  who  drove  them,  and  the  one 
who  rode  ahead  to  ward  off  interlopers  also  declined  any  compensa- 
tion, saying,  "  It  was  the  master's  orders." 

Some  of  the  grandest  public  benefactions  that  I  have  ever  seen 
were  endowed  by  Mexican  men  ;  not  only  hospitals  of  every  kind, 
but  also  institutions  of  learning.  An  instance  I  recall,  is  that  of  Eve- 
risto  Madero,  ex-Governor  of  Coahuila,  who  devoted  his  entire  salary 
during  his  term  of  office  to  establishing  public  schools  in  his  State. 

The  taste  for  ceremonious  display  and  profusion  is   national,  and 


2l8  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

enters  into  all  arrangements,  whether  of  house,  dress,  or  equipage, 
being  limited  only  by  the  means  for  its  indulgence.  If  rustic  chairs, 
cornices,  or  brackets  are  used,  the  dainty  fingers  of  the  housewife 
adorn  them,  until  they  lose  the  rough,  unpolished  appearance  of  the 
native  boughs,  by  means  of  gilding,  bronze,  and  gay  paints,  the  whole 
combined  into  a  brilliant  mosaic. 

Pots  containing  their  lovely  plants  are  draped  with  mosses  pecu- 
liar to  the  country,  exhibiting  only  the  beautiful.  But  in  striking  con- 
trast to  these  natural  flowers  blooming  the  year  round  I  have  fre- 
quently seen  in  handsome  houses  huge  artificial  plants  in  pots,  with 
exaggerated  coloring  in  foliage  and  flowers. 

A  love  for  all  bright  and  lovely  objects  is  innate  with  these  chil- 
dren of  the  sun.  Gorgeous  flowers,  trailing  vines,  Chinese  lanterns, 
paintings  hung  in  corridor  or  patio,  brilliant-hued  singing-birds,  all  com- 
bine to  form  a  scene  of  Oriental  richness  and  beauty. 

Notwithstanding  the  apparent  tendency  to  prodigality,  the  ut- 
most care  is  taken  in  every  detail  of  domestic  economy. 

The  carriage,  with  its  silver  mountings  bright  and  glistening,  stands 
in  the  zaguan  ready  for  the  drive  at  a  moment's  notice,  but  when  not 
in  use,  carriage,  horses  and  harness  are  all  in  their  proper  places,  in 
the  best  possible  order. 

On  the  first  visit,  a  guest  is  cordially  shown  through  the  house  by 
its  mistress,  who  may  well  take  pride  in  its  spotless  condition.  The 
Mexican  housekeeper  dreads  nothing  more  than  an  insignificant  par- 
ticle of  polvo  (dust)  in  any  part  of  her  domain. 

Great  care  is  bestowed  on  the  marking  of  household  linen,  the  hus- 
band's initials  or  monogram  being  exquisitely  embroidered  on  each 
article.  Merely  to  write  the  name  in  ink  does  not  suffice,  not  being 
considered  in  keeping  with  a  refined  taste. 

The  bedsteads  are  of  either  brass  or  iron — in  wealthy  families  of  the 
former — and  almost  universally  single.  Much  ingenuity  is  expended 
in  the  draping  of  filmy  laces  in  canopies  of  various  shapes,  daintily 
caught  back  with  bright  ribbons  and  flowers,  while  the  greatest  pains 
are  taken  in   the  execution    of  elaborate  embroideries,  laces,   tatting, 


(/     5 


THE   MEXICANS  IN    THEIR    HOMES.  221 

and  crochet  for  coverings,  those  with  drawn  threads  being  the  most 
distinctively  national.  But  with  all  this  industry  piled  up,  I  have  never 
seen  in  the  country  our  well-known,  if  homely,  patchwork  quilt. 

Pillows  are  more  numerous  than  with  us.  I  have  counted  thirteen 
on  one  bed,  made  of  either  wool  or  cotton  (feathers  are  limited  to  the 
few),  very  thin  and  narrow,  graded  and  piled  up,  pyramid  like,  and 
all  trimmed  uniformly  with  lace. 

Lace  curtains  are  prime  essentials  of  a  well-arranged  home  and 
adorn  every  opening,  but  I  have  seen  none  of  our  gay  chintzes  or 
cretonnes  used  in  this  way.  Mirrors  are  indispensable,  and  with  the 
careful  forethought  of  the  housewife,  one  invariably  occupies  a  place 
over  the  sofa,  while  another  hangs  on  the  opposite  wall,  directly  be- 
fore you. 

On  entering  the  sala,  the  most  noticeable  feature  is  the  sofa,  with 
its  invariable  accompaniment  of  four  chairs — two  large  and  two  smaller 
ones — placed  at  either  end  of  the  sofa,  parallel  to  each  other  and  vis-a 
vis.  The  unusual  number  of  chairs  in  most  of  the  houses  is  surprising, 
and  suggests  occasions  of  reunion  as  their  raison  d'etre  ■.  and  regardless 
of  wealth  or  station,  the  method  of  arrangement  is  the  same,  extend- 
ing around  the  room  in  unbroken  lines,  except  when  met  by  the  sofa 
or  the  triangular  tables  that  fill  the  corners.  The  parlor  furniture  of 
the  '.vealthy  is  extremely  handsome  :  upholstered  in  damask,  either  pure 
white,  or  in  shades  of  blue,  pink,  or  crimson,  supported  by  stately 
frames  of  gold  or  silver ;  with  carpet  corresponding  in  style.  But  the 
furniture  in  more  general  use  has  wooden  frames  covered  with  bright 
reps  ;  the  cushion  of  each,  with  its  dainty,  home-wrought  lace  cover, 
tables  with  the  same,  all  fitting  to  a  nicety  make  a  unique  and  harmo- 
nious effect.  Plainer  houses  have  the  same  unbroken  lines  of  home- 
made chairs  (the  sofacita  before  described),  with  the  same  tables  and 
arrangement.  Here  one  will  see  as  pretty  home-made  laces  and 
drawn-thread  work  as  in  the  grand  houses. 

Surrounded  by  so  many  evidences  of  a  refined  and  luxurious  taste, 
the  absence  of  books  and  pictures  is  conspicuous.  Private  collections 
are  few,  but  in  ever\-  large  city  there  is  a  public  bihiiotcca  (library),  of 


222  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS 

which  the  men  and  boys  avail  themselves,  but  the  desire  for  knowl- 
edge is  not  yet  sufficiently  urgent  for  these  institutions  to  be  much 
patronized  by  women. 

On  the  great  Tacuba  highway,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
Alameda  on  the  right,  at  Mariscala  No.  2,  stands  a  mansion  typical  of 
the  wealth  and  luxury  of  the  capital.  This  stately  edifice  is  the  home 
of  General  Vicente  Riva  Palacio,  the  distinguished  statesman,  soldier, 
and  litterateur. 

The  house  is  entered  as  usual  through  the  sagiian,  from  which  a 
spacious  stairway,  branching  to  right  and  left,  leads  to  the  principal 
apartments.  A  bronze  statue  of  Guerrero,  a  leading  hero  of  the  Inde- 
pendence war,  who  was  grandfather  of  the  owner  of  the  house,  now 
stands  as  seen  in  the  illustration.  The  stairs  and  floors  of  the  corri- 
dors and  halls  are  of  the  finest  Italian  marble;  while  around  and  on 
either  side  are  tropical  plants  of  every  shade  and  tint ;  and  on  the 
north  side  swings  an  aviary  filled  with  bright-hued  singing  birds. 

The  house  contains  about  fifty  rooms,  including  three  parlors,  a 
grand  salon  and  two  smaller  ones,  all  fitted  up  luxuriously.  The 
oratorio  (chapel)  is  impressive  with  its  altar  handsomely  draped,  and 
the  picture  of  the  Virgin  Guadalupe  in  the  center — crosses,  silver 
candelabra,  kneeling-stools  in  plush  and  gold,  magnificent  vestments, 
and  I  was  surprised  and  pleased  to  see,  on  either  side,  American 
mottoes — "  In  God  we  trust,"  and  "God  bless  our  home." 

Quite  near  the  chapel  is  the  comcdor  grandc  (.large  dining-room), 
which  is,  perhaps,  100  feet  in  length  and  50  in  width. 

The  furniture  is  of  native  rosewood  and  mahogany,  wrought  in 
most  tasteful  designs,  while  the  floor  glistens  like  glass,  in  its 
varied  mosaics  of  rare  and  peculiar  woods.  Mirrors  alternate  with 
the  massive  side  boards,  with  their  rare  marble  slabs  from  the  quarries 
of  Puebla. 

In  different  receptacles  were  no  fewer  than  3,000  pieces  of  china, 
man_\-  of  them  hand-painted  in  the  flowers  of  the  country,  2,000  pieces 
of  crystal,  and  silver  that  for  quantity,  variety,  and  brightness  was 
truly   dazzling.      Included    in  this  was   the  magnificent   silver  service 


THE   MEXICANS  IN    THEIR   HOMES. 


223 


I  I  iiiMfiM^tnfiM 


STAIRWAY   IN  THE   PALACIO    HOME. 


sent  by  Francis  Joseph,  Emperor  of  Austria,  engraved  with  the  roj'al 
arms,  to  Mariano  Palacio,  father  of  the  present  owner  of  the  house, 
as  a  token  of  gratitude  for  his  voluntar}'  and  noble  defense  of  Maxi- 
milian. 


224  FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

Smaller  rooms  are  used  by  the  family  informally. 

The  table  linen,  of  finest  texture,  includes  cloths  with  monogranr 
elaborately  embroidered  at  either  end,  and  napkins  for  every  possible 
use,  many  representing  the  talent,  industry,  and  ingenuity  of  the 
women  of  Mexico,  being  hemstitched,  embroidered,  or  ornamented 
with  that  original  lace — the  drawn-thread  work — for  which  they  are 
famous. 

While  on  the  subject  of  needle-work,  I  must  mention  that  I  was 
shown  about  thirty  of  the  most  elegant  bed-spreads  on  which  my  eyes 
ever  rested.  They  consisted  of  velvet,  silk,  satin,  plush,  lace,  crochet, 
with  various  kinds  of  embroidery  as  center-pieces  ;  all  quite  adequate 
to  arouse  feelings  of  hvely  admiration.  The  sheets,  of  snowy  linen, 
are  hemstitched  and  embroidered,  sometimes  several  inches  in  depth. 
The  pillow-cases  correspond  in  style,  the  whole  forming  a  collection 
of  rare  needle-work  which  seemed  to  amount  to  thousands  of  pieces. 

The  sleeping  apartments,  in  addition  to  every  article  of  luxury  and 
ease,  are  furnished  with  single  brass  bedsteads,  over  each  of  which  is 
suspended  a  canopy  of  delicate  lace,  caught  up  with  flowers  and  bright 
ribbons,  forming  a  veritable  bower. 

The  sala  grande  bears  evidence  of  an  immense  expenditure,  every 
thing  being  of  European  importation.  In  size  it  corresponds  with 
the  dining-room.  The  carpet  is  shaded  from  pale  pink  to  bright  crim- 
son ;  the  furniture  in  frames  of  gold,  upholstered  in  the  same  shades 
of  the  carpet.  Grand  chandeliers  costing  thousands  of  dollars  are 
suspended  from  the  ceiling ;  mirrors  and  sconces  are  arranged  on  the 
walls,  and  lace  curtains  of  daintiest  weft  shade  the  windows.  In  this 
apartment  I  again  encountered  the  beautiful  hand  embroidery  of 
Doha  Josefina,  the  noble  and  lovely  wife  of  General  Palacio,  in  the 
chairs,  ottomans,  and  hassocks,  all  executed  in  the  finest  Japanese  de- 
signs, some  of  which  she  told  me  had  occupied  her  time  for  six  months. 

I  must  also  mention  the  ceilings  of  this  mansion.  Some  30  feet 
in  height,  they  rest  on  heavy  beams  of  wood,  laid  crosswise  of  the 
room,  each  one  perhaps  18  inches  in  depth,  the  whole  giving  an 
effect    of    massive   grandeur.     The    beams   are    tinted    to  correspond 


TJiE   MEXICANS   /\    THEIR   HOMES.  225 

With  the  ceihngs  and  walls,  and  ornamented  with  lines  of  gold.  These 
lines  also  panel  the  walls,  and  outline  doors  and  windows. 

The  azotca,  a  notable  feature  in  the  architecture  of  the  Aztecs, 
still  adorns  these  square-topped  buildings.  At  the  capital  they 
are  constructed  of  brick,  and  form  a  delightful  promenade  at  all 
seasons.  As  the  houses  are  joined  together,  one  may  walk  over  the 
entire  square,  as  I  had  the  pleasure  of  doing. 

The  study  of  General  Palacio  contains,  perhaps,  one  of  the  finest 
collections  of  books  and  manuscripts  in  the  republic.  He  possesses 
a  large  number  of  the  original  documents  of  the  Inquisition  hand- 
somely bound  ;•  also  a  valuable  foreign  library,  comprising  books  in 
many  languages.  The  door  of  the  case  containing  the  books  of  the 
Inquisition  opens  over  a  winding  stairway,  and  the  carpet  is  fitted  to 
a  nicety  over  the  semicircle  which  opens  and  closes  with  the  door,  giv- 
ing ingress  and  egress  to  the  private  study  below.  When  the  General 
opened  the  door  of  this  case,  I  came  near  going  headlong  below,  and 
the  thought  flashed  through  my  mind  that  I  was  verily  descending  to 
the  vaults  of  the  Inquisition,  not  knowing  that  the  door  of  the  book- 
case was  also  that  of  the  dark  stairway.  I  was,  however,  rescued  by 
my  friends,  and  made  the  descent  in  the  usual  way.  I  would  here  re- 
mark that  these  spiral  stairways  are  a  prominent  feature  of  Mexican 
architecture. 

In  the  room  below  there  is  a  handsome  case  containing  the  swords 
of  General  Francisco  Xavier  Mina  and  Vicente  Guerrero  ;  the  feath- 
ers— pink  and  white — worn  by  the  Emperor  Iturbide  on  his  hat  when 
entering  the  city  in  1821  ;  a  bronze  cast  of  Napoleon;  and  the  origi- 
nal sentence  of  Picaluga,  who  betrayed  Guerrero  into  the  hands  of 
his  enemies,  besides  many  Indian  curios  and  bric-a-brac.  In  another 
room  were  the  chair  of  Hidalgo  and  the  saddle  that  Maximilian  rode 
the  day  he  was  captured. 

.Some  idea  of  the  immense  collection  of  books,  manuscripts,  legal 
documents,  and  literary  works  of  General  Palacio  may  be  gained, 
when  I  say  that  eight  handsome  rooms  in  this  grand  house  are  devoted 
exclusively  by  him  to  his  scientific  and  literary  pursuits — the  large 


226 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


Study  upstairs,  from  which  we  descended  by  means  of  the  winding 
stairway,  and  seven  rooms  on  the  ground  floor,  running  from  the  front 
windows  on  the  sidewalk,  along  the  patio,  far  to  the  rear.  On  the 
opposite  side  is  the  famil}'  theater,  capable  of  seating  two  hundred 
persons,  beautifully  arranged  and  decorated.  The  drop-curtain  and 
scenery  are  painted  from  native  subjects.  In  the  season  a  select  com- 
pany occupy  the  boards — sometimes  varied  by  amateurs — and  play  to 
crowded  houses  of  friends. 


THE    SAIJ\    GKANDE    IN    THE    lU.ALl*'    Hu.ME. 


In  the  rear  aaguan,  a  carriage  is  ever  ready  for  the  drive,  while 
immediately  behind  this  is  an  exquisite  fairy-like  grotto,  with  its 
fountain,  creeping  tropical  vines  and  gorgeous  flowers,  distinctly  v'isi- 
ble  from  the  sidewalk  through  the  open  doors.  On  one  side  are 
various  baths,  and  still  beyond,  sewing  rooms;  while  on  the  other 
are  the  numerous  servants'  rooms,  all  neat  and  well  kept.  Beyond 
these  is  the  vast  laundry,  then  the  stables  containing  stalls  for  many 
horses,  all  sleek  and  shiny,  with  vehicles  of  various  kinds,  the  premises 
extending  until  halted  by  the  rear  street. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  know  that  the  number  of  servants  con- 


THE   MEXICANS  IK    THEIR   HOMES.  22/ 

stantly  employed  is  thirty-five — among  them  three  housekeepers — to 
say  nothing  of  many  extra  ones  who  come  in  on  special  occasions. 
The  family  to  be  waited  upon  by  this  array  of  domestics  consists  of, 
at  most,  six  members. 

E.xternally  the  mansion  presents  the  semi-feudal  appearance  so 
often  seen  here — a  mass  of  solid,  gray  stone,  indicating  little  of  the 
extent  and  magnificence  of  the  interior. 

The  love  of  music  permeates  all  classes,  and  is  cultivated  equally 
by  both  sexes.  Thoroughness  is  the  rule,  and  memorizing  is  always 
required;  the  most  difficult  and  prolonged  recitals  being  rendered 
with  brilliant  execution  without  the  score  or  a  break.  When  asked 
to  play,  the  musician  complies  at  once,  and  if  the  guest  expresses 
pleasure,  will  continue  playing  indefinitely. 

On  marriage  the  beautiful  art  is  not  given  up  ;  on  the  contrary,  is 
practiced  quite  as  much  as  before.  In  some  delightful  homes  I  have 
been  agreeably  entertained  for  hours  at  a  time  by  the  choicest 
musical  duets  rendered  by  an  elderly  man  and  his  wife,  the  sons  and 
daughters,  and  even  the  grandchildren,  taking  their  places  alternately 
at  the  piano. 

I  heard  but  little  classic  music,  but  the  opera  is  popular  and  un- 
derstood by  all.  In  this,  public  taste  is  quite  critical,  Italian  opera 
taking  precedence.  Opera  bouffe  is  regarded  as  highly  immoral, 
although  the  ballet  is  universally  popular,  and  introduced  between 
the  acts  of  grand  opera.  English  opera  is  regarded  as  a  compromisei 
between  them.  A  young  Mexican  friend  of  mine  quaintly  classified 
Italian  opera  a.s  blaiica  (white  or  pure);  English,  color  dc  rosa ;  and 
opera  bouffe,  iiiuy  Colorado  (highly  colored). 

An  enterprising  manager,  not  a  great  while  since,  attempted  to 
present  on  alternate  nights  grand  opera  and  opera  bouffe.  On  grand 
opera  nights  every  seat  and  bo.x  was  filled  with  the  wealth  and  fashion 
of  the  capital,  while  on  opera  bouffe  nights  they  sang  to  almost  empty 
houses.  If  any  laxity  of  morals  exists  in  private  life,  immoral  and 
corrupting  plays  are  certainly  discouraged  on  the  boards. 

The  native  airs  breathe  a  passionate  sweetness,  uniting  with   the 
15 


228  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

tender  minor  tones  the  high  staccato  movement  and  the  short,  quick 
rest — a  style  to  be  observed  both  in  the  voice  and  instrument. 

A  marked  difference  may  be  noted  in  the  melodies  of  the  plains 
and  low  country  and  those  of  elevated  and  mountainous  regions — the 
former  being  soft  and  pathetic,  while  the  latter  breathe  the  exhila- 
rating spirit  of  the  hills. 

The  finely  attuned  national  ear  for  music  assists  greatly  in  the 
acquirement  of  foreign  languages,  for  which  their  aptness  is  remark- 
able. I  have  been  in  families  where  English,  French,  and  Italian  were 
spoken  quite  as  fluently  as  the  native  tongue.  In  this  respect  they 
excel  our  own  country  people.  Their  linguistic  culture  is  practical, 
while  our  students  generally  neither  have  nor  make  opportunities  for 
speaking  in  foreign  tongues. 

Closely  connected  with  music  and  languages  is  the  poetical  faculty, 
which  seems  equally  inherent.  It  comes  out  on  any  occasion,  with 
surprising  readiness,  in  little  tender  sentimental  effusions,  or  graceful 
compliment — tone  and  gesture  having  added  emphasis  in  delivery. 

Diminutives  are  universally  employed,  and  the  cita  never  sounds 
so  sweetly  as  when  rnurmured  by  infant  lips  in  inainacita  2i\\d  pcipacito 
(dearest  or  darling  mamma  and  papa).  The  names  we  are  accustomed 
to  use  in  a  formal  manner  sound  sweet  and  pathetic  m  their  simpler 
adaptation,  as  heard  in  Mexican  homes.  Aunt  Julia,  in  our  prosaic 
idiom,  becomes  Julita — pronounced  Hulita,  little  Julia — Ua  (aunt) 
being  entirely  omitted.  Everybody  is  called  by  the  Christian  name, 
regardless  of  age  or  position  in  society. 

Nothing  is  more  melodious  in  Mexican  homes  than  the  terms  tc 
and  tu  (thee  and  thou).  The  pronoun  you,  listed  {vjniten  /'.),  is  not 
used  in  the  family,  nor  with  intimate  friends,  if  and  tu  being  ex- 
pressive of  confidence.  I  have  been  corrected  by  heads  of  families 
for  thoughtlessly  addressing  some  of  them  asj'<^/^  instead  of  placing 
myself  in  their  inner  circle,  sharing  its  most  sacred  privileges. 

In  the  endearing  expressions,  "  Tu  inc  ijuicrcs  d  mi ?  "  ("  Lovest  thou 
me?"),  "  Yo,  te  quiero  d  ti"  ("Yes,  I  love  thee"),  the  pronouns  are 
repeated  for  emphasis. 


THE   MEXICANS  IN    THEIK   HOMES.  229 

Another  way  of  putting  it  is,  "JA-  qiicns  tu  /  "  (•'  Lovest  tliou  mc  ?  '"i, 
"  Si,  tc  qncro"  ("Yes,  I  love  thee").  Still  other  lo\-ing  expressions 
which  are  beard  in  Mexican  homes  every  day  are,  '' Luz  de  mis  ojos  " 
("  Light  of  my  ej-es  "),  and  "  /do/o  inio  "  ('•  My  idol  ").  '' Mi corazoncito  " 
("  My  heart's  treasure  "),  and  "  I'ldn  inia  "  ("  My  life  "),  all  having  an 
added  zest  by  the  speaker's  tender  manner. 

In   the   baby  language  of  mothers,  nothing  is  sweeter  than  these 


CORKinr)R     IN    THE    FAl.AtlO    MOMF. 


expressions.  Intonations  vary  in  different  localities.  At  the  capital 
the  rising  inflection  is  generally  heard,  the  voice  running  on  an  up- 
ward sliding  scale — the  marked  rising  inflection — as  no,  Bncnd,  with 
pleasing  effect. 

Great  delicacy  is  always  exercised  in  speaking  of  ages.  In  one 
part  of  the  country,  one  a  little  advanced  in  years,  or  even  quite  old, 
is  called  vicjito  (a  little  old).  In  the  choice  society  of  the  capital  this 
term  is  considered  wanting  in  good  taste;  uii  poco  grandc  ox  grandicito 


230  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

(a  little  large)  is  usually  employed,  but  the  phrase  carries  conviction 
with  it. 

One  highly  commendable  trait  is,  that  Mexicans  will  not  say  dis- 
agreeable things  to  you,  either  on  their  own  account,  or  repeating 
what  others  may  have  said.  I  have  been  told  that  the  women  are 
much  given  to  gossip;  but  if  true,  I  have  not  heard  them,  as  they  are 
careful  never  to  speak  unkindly  or  slightingly  of  their  countrywomen 
in  the  presence  of  strangers.  The  possible  failings  of  their  own 
people  are  carefully  held  in  reserve;  and  the  most  critical  remark  I 
heard  one  woman  make  of  another  was,  that  she  was  "  iimy  biiena, 
pcro  para  piira  bticiia  no  serve"  ("very  good,  but  to  be  purely  good, 
and  no  more,  was  of  no  value"),  a  nice  discrimination  between  nega- 
tive and  active  goodness  ! 

"■  iMny  Mexicano"  ("Very  Mexican")  is  another  phrase  used  in 
the  same  way,  referring  to  something  slow,  or  out  of  accord  with  the 
feelings  and  sentiments  of  the  speaker. 

"  Muy  iiial  criado  "  ("  A  very  bad  servant  ")  expresses  great  con- 
tempt. Sometimes,  however,  it  is  used  humorously,  as  when  a  child 
teases  its  mother,  or  a  friend  insists  on  the  conferring  of  some  little 
favor  at  an  inconvenient  season. 

In  the  arts  of  the  toilet  the  seflorita  is  full)-  up  with  her  Anglo- 
Saxon  sisters  ;  indeed,  it  may  truthfully  be  said  she  is  ahead  of  them. 
Paint,  whitening  lotions,  and  dentrifices  are  used  freely.  But  no 
women  excel  them  in  the  care  of  the  hair,  that  "  glory  "  of  woman, 
and  its  wonderful  length,  its  silky,  luxuriant  softness,  amply  compen- 
sate them  for  their  pains. 

Houses  built  before  the  days  of  modern  conveniences  are  not  pro- 
vided with  baths,  but  comfortable  and  luxurious  public  baths — warm 
and  cold — for  all  classes  exist  everywhere.  It  is  here  the  seflorita,  at 
least  once  a  week,  uncoils  Iut  lovely  tresses,  and  washes  thoroughly 
both  hair  and  scalp,  then,  with  towel  pinned  around  her  shoulders, 
and  hair  flowing  in  unconfined  rip]iles  from  crown  to  tip,  goes  through 
the  stn.-ets  to  her  home  with  no  more  concealment  than  if  returning 
from  church. 


THE   MEXICANS  IN   THEIH  HOMES.  23 1 

Sefloritas  are  universally  known  in  plain  English  as  chickens.  If 
very  young,  \.\\e.y  di.xQ  pollitas  (little  chickens).  If  twenty  or  more  years, 
the  graver  and  more  prophetic  term  polla  (grown  or  big  chicken)  is 
applied. 

An  opportunity  was  given  me  of  hearing  an  amusing  adaptation 
of  the  term  ; 

A  number  of  ladies  were  arranging  to  give  an  entertainment  for 
a  charitable  purpose.  All  had  stated  what  they  would  contribute, 
save  one,  who  had  remained  silent  throughout.  But  when  a  lull  came 
in  the  conversation,  she  quietly  remarked  she  would  bring  \.\\c  pollas  y 
pollitas.  The  merriment  spread  like  contagion,  for  she  had  three 
marriageable  daughters. 

On  another  occasion,  at  a  fashionable  dinner  party  which  1  at- 
tended at  the  capital,   Guillermo    Prieto  was  also  a  guest. 

The  venerable  poet  sat  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  long  table  beside 
a  blooming  seflorita,  who  was  evidently  entertaining  the  old  gentle- 
man to  the  best  of  her  ability.  A  charming,  middle-aged  seflora  sat 
near  me,  and  when  the  conversation  flagged,  she  turned  and  said, 
naively,  "  Oyc  !  oyc  (hear!  hear)!  Guillermo!  You  like  those  /i^///- 
tas  much  better  than  the  pollas !  "  To  which  he  replied,  "  Xatural- 
mcntc  (naturally),  there  is  nothing  prettier  or  sweeter  than  a  poliita  !  " 
An  expression  of  taste  which  could  not  be  described  as  national. 

But  these  lovely  pollitas  never  experience  the  pleasures  of  our 
debutantes.  From  thirteen  years  of  age  they  may  be  candidates  for 
matrimony,  but  such  an  event  crowning  their  entrance  into  society 
as  a  winter  in  Washington  would  be  as  foreign  to  their  ideas  and 
impressions  of  real  young  ladyhood  as  their  Romeo  and  Juliet  love- 
making  from  the  balcony  or  barred  windows  to  our  >'oung  ladies.  So 
they  are  always  out,  and  yet  never  out ! 

Soltcras  or  donccllonas  viejas  is  the  term  applied  to  old  maids. 
While  no  derogation  attaches  to  this  position,  yet  often  much  sport 
is  made  at  the  expense  of  those  who  may  in  any  way  render  them- 
selves odious  and  disagreeable.  ''Miiy  fastidiosa"  ("very  fastidious," 
or    "a    little    difficult    to     please")    is   politely    applied;     or   "Very 


232  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

good  to  dress  the  saints,"  meaning,  that  they  are  always  at  church, 
and,  having  nothing  else  to  do,  dressing  saints  is  a  proper  occupa- 
tion for  them. 

Thirty  years  are  allowed  a  seftorita  ere  she  is  launched  on  that 
monotonous  soltcra  journey;  and  tliey  are  to  be  found  as  often  in 
wealthy  as  in  plainer  families. 

Bachelors  are  quite  common,  and  they  also  have  their  special 
names.  Sometimes  solteroncs,  at  others,  solicroncs  pcrniciosos  (bad 
or  pernicious  unmarried  men).  A  Mexican  lady  said  to  me,  "  Life 
to  the  solteroius  is  never  bleak  nor  desolate.  They  keep  up  their 
houses  and  have  everything  about  them  that  contributes  to  their 
happiness !  " 

Young  marriageable  men  are  called  galliiios,  older  ones,  gallos 
(young  and  old  roosters).  And  those  tireless,  idle  young  men  who 
stand  on  the  streets  habitually,  watching  the  senoritas  o!i  their  way  to 
mass  or  to  shop,  are  called  by  the  appropriate  name  of  lagartijos 
(lizards),   because  they  are   always  in  the  sun. 

Foreigners  are  not  long  in  sorting  these  out  from  the  multitude,  as 
the}'  make  it  a  rule  to  stare  one  out  of  countenance. 

They  compare  with  the  idlers  of  all   countries,  and   are  not  a  whit 

behind    them    in    deportment    and    dress — even   the  eyeglass   is    not 

wanting. 

A    natural    and,    it    would    seem,    national   source  of  pride  to  the 

Mexican,  is  his  small  and  elegantly  formed  foot,  and,  not  satisfied 
with  its  original  graces  of  slender  form  and  arched  instep,  he  com- 
presses its  size  by  wearing  tight-fitting,  high-heeled,  and  pointed-toed 
shoes. 

Apropos  of  this  little  display  of  personal  vanity,  shared  by  both 
the  sexes,  I  may  repeat  what  a  lady  of  great  culture  and  refinement 
told  me  in  plain  words,  that  while  her  husband  was  handsome,  good, 
and  kind,  yet,  had  he  not  possessed  the  most  perfect  foot  she  ever  saw, 
never  would  she  have  married  him  ! 

The  women  are  by  no  means  m.igratory  in  their  habits.  Indeed, 
with   few   exceptions,  they  do  not   travel  in  their  own  country.      They 


THE   MEXICANS  IN    THEIR   HOMES. 


233 


have  no  seaside  resorts  nor  watering-places  kept  solely  for  recreation  ; 
the  change  to  a  hacienda  or  to  a  quiet  village  being  the  chief  portion 
of  their  knowledge  and  experience  in  that  line. 

The  increased   facilities   for    travel  do  not   offer   sufficient   induce- 
ments to  them  to  leave  their  homes. 

One  charming  woman,  whose  acquaintance  I  formed  at  Morelia, 
said  to  me  that  she  had  never 
been  ten  miles  beyond  More- 
lia but  once  in  her  life.  This 
was  a  trip  to  the  capital  after 
her  marriage.  Then  she  only 
remained  one  day,  which  was 
spent  in  weeping  so  violently, 
and  in  entreating  her  liege  lord 
to  take  her  home  again,  that 
he  was  only  too  glad  to  do  so 
without  delay. 

The  boarding-house,  as  it  is 
known  to  us,  is  entirel)-  un- 
known in  Mexico,  so  that  in 
cases  of  financial  difficulty  or 
other  misfortune,  ladies  do  not 
assume  the  care  and  manage- 
ment of  such  establishments. 
I  only  know  of  one  instance 
where  a  lady,  suddenly  reduced 
from  affluence  to  poverty,  had 
recourse  to  this  method  of 
gaining  a  livelihood.  Now  and 
then  one  may  encounter  a 
casa  dc  Inicspcdcs,  where  fur- 
nished rooms  are  rented,  but 
this  is  the  extent  of  such  busi- 
ness by  women.     And  it  is  safe 


WASHSTAND    IN    A    MEXICAN    HOUSE. 


234  FACE     TO   FACE    WITH    7 BE   MEXICANS. 

to  estimate  that  scarce!)'  one  out  of  ten  thousand  scfioritas  lias  ever 
found  herself  inside  either  a  hotel  or  boarding-house. 

Indeed,  so  deeply  rooted  is  the  feeling  against  any  kind  of  publi- 
city in  the  domestic  life,  that  it  is  not  considered  etiquette  for  a  lady, 
married  or  single,  to  visit  in  hotels. 

Foreigners  are  attracted  by  the  tender,  kindly  manner  of  the  senor- 
itas,  and  frequently  choose  their  life  partners  among  them.  But, 
though  loyal  and  devoted  wives,  as  is  well  known,  the  fewest  instances 
are  on  record  where  they  have  been  successfully  transplanted  to 
another  soil.  They  will  not  quarrel  to  carry  their  point,  but  sooner 
or  later  they  will  and  must  return  to  their  native  land.  The  women 
of  other  countries  may  fill  a  wider  sphere,  but  there  is  no  climate  nor 
customs  like  their  own. 

A  parallel  is  found  by  transplanting  the  American  woman  to 
Mexico,  and  the  Mexican  woman  to  the  United  States.  The  one 
sighs  over  her  lack  of  freedom,  while  with  the  other,  the  excess  of 
freedom  is  an  untold  burden.  No  charm  or  attraction  can  exist  for 
her  beyond  the  barred  window  and  the  circumscribed  limits  of  the 
promenade,  accompanied  according  to  custom,  by  some  female  rela- 
tive or  servant. 

The  foreigner  who  contemplates  seeking  the  hand  of  a  seflorita, 
should  first  arrange  all  business  matters  in  his  own  country,  bid  adieu 
to  kindred  and  friends ;  for  when  the  event  takes  place  linking  his  fate 
with  that  of  the  object  of  his  affections,  he  must  become  in  word  and 
deed  a  Mexican,  and  be  one  of  the  family  in  every  relation. 

One  noble  trait  is  exemplified  in  the  life  of  the  Mexican  woman 
who  shares  her  worldly  goods  with  either  a  foreigner  or  countryman. 
He  may  bring  into  his  house  his  parents,  his  aunts,  and  his  cousins, 
even  as  remote  as  the  twent)-ninth  cousin,  and  his  wife  will  feel  it 
only  her  duty  and  pleasure  to  be  kind  and  tender,  dividing  with 
them  her  worldly  possessions. 

According  to  law,  a  girl  is  eligible  for  matrimony  at  fourteen.  She 
is  then  as  fully  developed  as  an  American  girl  at  eighteen.  Maturing 
thus  early,  marriage  takes  place,  and  from  twenty-five  to  thirty-five,  the 


THE   MEXICANS  /.V    THEIR   HOMES. 


:35 


piquancy  of  youth  waning,  they  arrive  at  a  faded  and  premature  age. 
The  dearth  of  intellectual  pursuits  and  the  climate  do  their  part  in  the 
metamorphosis. 

The  fine  physical  development  among  the  women  is  particularly 
noticeable  at  the  capital.  Their  beauty,  however,  grows  upon  and 
impresses  one  by  degrees;  their  glorious  soft  eyes,  glossy  black  hair, 
exquisitely  shaped  hands  and  arms  and  small  feet  are  more  admired 
the  longer  we  observe  them. 

It  is  a  pleasure  to  chronicle  the  fact  that  the  government  is 
now  thoroughly  aroused  to  the  impor- 
tance of  giving  educational  advantages 
to  the  excellent,  honest,  and  kindly  dis- 
posed middle  class.  Nothing  will  tend 
more  to  make 
Mexico  strong 
in  herself  and 
the  sooner 
place  her  in 
the  foremost 
ranks  among 
nations,  than 
the  disposition 
she  now  man- 
ifests of  being  deeply  interested  in  the  education  of  the  masses,  and 
especially  in  that  of  the  women.  Industrial  and  normal  schools  and 
colleges  are  now  in  successful  operation  at  many  central  points.  In 
these  they  receive  not  only  a  practical  education,  but  also  instruction 
in  the  various  branches  of  art  b)'  highly  qualified  masters. 

Treated  heretofore  more  like  dolls,  or  ornamental  adjuncts — and  in 
a  state  of  dependence — now,  without  fear  of  misconstruction,  they  may 
enter  such  avenues  of  art  and  industry  as  will  support  them  independ- 
ently. Every  latent  talent  is  being  fostered  and  encouraged  by  the 
administrators  of  the  law.  Poor  young  girls,  as  well  as  boys,  are 
pensioned  by  either  their  own  State  or  the  federal  government,  and 


AN    ORCHID. 


236  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

only  a  few  years  more  will  witness  an  upward  and  onward  progress- 
iveness  heretofore  unknown. 

At  home,  also,  their  range  of  accomplishments  is  extended. 
Where  formerly  sefioritas  employed  themselves  in  lacework  and  em- 
broidery, they  now  cut,  fit,  and  make  their  own  dresses  with  taste  and 
skill,  copying  closely  European  and  American  fashions,  and  taking 
much  pleasure  in  the  selection  of  the  various  styles. 

During  my  sojourn  at  the  capital,  one  young  seflorita  graduated  in 
dentistry.  She  began  at  once  assisting  her  father,  who  was  a  dentist, 
in  his  office,  the  fact  being  announced  in  all  the  leading  daily  papers. 

Happily  the  class  which  most  needs  this  aid  and  encouragement 
is  the  one  most  benefited  by  it — the  excellent,  faithful,  and  hospitable 
middle  class.  ' 

It  need  not  be  inferred  that  husbands  interdict  their  wives  from 
sharing  intellectual  enjoyments.  Yet  one — a  distinguished  man  of 
letters — remarked  to  me  that  it  was  all  very  well  for  American 
women  to  walk  along  with  the  men  in  science  and  literature,  but  it 
would  never  do  for  Mexican  women  to  know  any  place  aside  from 
the  home,  with  its  relation  to  husband  and  children.  If  so,  they 
would  at  once  grow  unhappy  and  discontented. 

A  Mexican  gentleman,  who  had  lived  a  great  deal  in  the  Utiited 
States,  and  appreciated  the  Americans  as  a  people,  freely  admitted  to 
me  that  he  had  made  the  "  double  mistake  of  marrying  two  American 
women."  If  this  remark  savored  of  a  lack  of  gallantry,  it  bore,  how- 
ever, a  general  truth,  for  the  races  are  not,  as  a  rule,  suited  to  each 
other  conjugally. 

But  some  of  the  most  majestic  old  dames  it  has  ever  been  my 
fortune  to  know  are  among  the  Mexican  women.  They  step  as  if 
descended  directly  from  Montezuma,  and  the  manner  in  which  they 
uphold  the  dignity  of  their  homes  is  something  well  worth  seeing. 

In  neither  se.x  is  the  slightest  effort  made  to  conceal  age.  Even 
young  ladies  on  the  shady  side  of  an  "  uncertain  age  "  do  not  seem 
aware  that  the  least  derogation  attaches  to  that  fact,  but  with  a  quiet 
unconcern  state  the  exact  number  of  their  years. 


THE   MEXICAiYS  IX    TIJEIK   HOMES.  237 

Having  so  many  servants,  the  lives  of  the  women  arc  much  easier 
with  regard  to  household  labors  than  with  us.  There  is  no  hurry — no 
necessity  for  it;  but,  though  custom  yields  io  ndgligd  m  the  mornings, 
sacques  and  skirts,  loose  low  shoes,  and  no  corsets,  hence  no  incon- 
venience as  from  the  more  formal  toilet  of  our  women,  their 
maladies  are  quite  as  numerous.  The  lack  of  exercise,  and  excessive 
indulgence  in  rich,  highly-spiced  peppery  food,  may  account  for  many 
ailments. 

Children  sum  up,  generally,  ten,  twelve,  and  sometimes  as  many 
as  fifteen  to  eighteen  in  number,  many  not  reaching  maturity.  In  few 
instances  do  the  mothers  nurse  their  babes,  the  wet-nurse  being  "  the 
power  behind  the  throne." 

I  was  agreeably  disappointed,  however,  to  see  so  few  instan- 
ces of  personal  deformity.  Near-sightedness  is  prevalent  all  over 
the  country,  and  is  accounted  for  by  the  excess  of  light  out- 
side and  its  deficiency,  with  lack  of  ventilation,  in  both  homes  and 
schools. 

Mexico  is  an  earthly  paradise  for  children.  The  little  monarchs 
hold  high  sway  in  the  affections  of  the  people;  and  from  the  moment 
they  see  the  light  it  is  a  long  hey-day  of  enjoyment  and  child-play. 
Expressions  of  the  tenderest  love  are  lavished  on  them  without 
affectation,  whether  in  the  street,  the  house,  or  the  shop,  and,  regard- 
less of  how  man)'  may  have  preceded  him,  the  new  baby  is  hailed  with 
delight,  and  takes  superior  rank  in  the  household. 

No  country  can  produce  more  marvelously  beautiful,  brighter, 
or  more  precocious  children.  They  are  happy  by  nature,  and,  though 
indisposed  to  quarrel  with  each  other  either  in  the  house  or  street, 
yet  somehow  they  manage  to  assert  their  rights. 

The  childish  prattle  in  the  sweet  bab)"  Spanish  is  melody  itself, 
coming  from  these  winning  and  most  lovable  little  creatures.  Beauti- 
ful Alfonso,  the  baby  boy  of  Senora  Calderon — a  little  more  than  two 
years  old — came  tapping  at  my  door  one  da\'. 

Opening  it,  1  asked,  "  What  do  you  want,  precious  one?  "  Taking 
my  hand  and   looking  archly  in  my  face,  he  said,  with   baby  incorrect- 


238 


FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 


ness,  "  Sabo    IiigUs "    ("  I     know    Englisli  ").     "  Well,   then,"   said   I, 

"  speak  to  me  in  English." 
"  Gooch,"  he  replied,  laughing, 
shaking  his  head,  and,  as  I 
caught  him  in  my  arms,  pat- 
ting me  on  the  cheek.  My 
name  was  the  only  word  he 
knew,  but  he  had  rehearsed  it 
with  his  nurse  until  his  pro- 
nunciation was  perfect.  After 
this,  every  visitor  was  made 
aware  of  his  proficiency  in 
English,  the  whole  family  en- 
tering into  his  own  enjoyment 
of  his  knowledge.  No  won- 
der these  darlings  are  so  little 
under  control  when  they 
are  so  cunning  and  interest- 
ing! 


National  tastes  and  char- 
acteristics are  early  developed. 
Among  the  first  is,  that  noise  of  any  kind — laughing,  crying,  and  walk- 
ing heavily — is  rude  and  unbecoming. 

Babies  do  not  creep  because  always  in  the  arms  of  the  nurse,  who 
does  the  greater  part  towards  amusing  them.  They  are  so  tractable 
that  in  sitting  for  a  photograph  they  naturally  take  a  graceful,  easy 
position,  upon  which  even  the  artist  cannot  improve.  The  portrait  of 
Alfonso  is  an  instance  of  this  kind.  I  took  him  to  the  artist,  and 
without  either  of  us  touching  him,  lie  assumed  the  position  as  pre- 
sented. 

Clinging  as  they  do  to  inbred  traits,  the  universal  habits  of 
all  children  exhibit  themselves.  If  they  are  not  given  the  drum- 
sticks of  the  fowl,  I  have  seen  their  great  luminous  orbs  gather 
moisture    until    tears    would    overflow    in    distress    at  the    appropria- 


1    KNOW     t-  ■ 


THE   MEXICANS  IX   THEIR  HOMES.  239 

tion  by  some  one  else  of  this  important  appendage.  No  child  is 
excluded  from  the  table  or  asked  to  wait:  even  on  ceremonious 
occasions  their  places  are  reserved.  They  are  admitted  into  the  full 
confidence  of  the  family  circle,  and  such  interesting  events  as  births, 
marriages,  and  deaths  are  discussed  in  their  presence  with  the  utmost 
freedom. 

Boys  begin  to  smoke  about  ten  years  oi  age,  but  never  do  they  in- 
dulge in  the  presence  of  their  elder.s — not  even  an  older  brother.  Few 
games  and  but  fewer  outdoor  sports  have  been  provided  for  them  ; 
and  until  within  late  years,  bicycles  or  gymnasiums  were  unknown. 
But  they  are  grand  little  horsemen,  when  fully  equipped  in  the  na- 
tional dress;  though  sometimes  rather  grotesque  when  mounted 
on  a  hard-mouthed  "  billy  goat  "  instead  of  a  horse,  accompanied  by 
a  train  of  boys.  One  rides,  another  leads,  and  still  another 
uses  the  lash.  I  have  seen  two  boys  on  one  "  billy,"  and  this 
usually  obstreperous  animal  yielded  quite  kindly  to  the  caprices  of 
the  riders. 

Girls  have  quite  as  little  diversion,  and  often  I  have  seen  them 
playing  self-invented  games,  in  close  imitation  of  church  scenes — with 
altar,  candles,  and  swinging  censers — the  boys  acting  as  priests,  while 
the  girls,  as  nuns  or  plain  worshipers,  would  file  into  the  imaginary 
church. 

The  home  discipline  is  of  the  mildest.  If  a  correction  be  necessary, 
it  comes  in  the  form  of  an  appeal,  both  parents  showing  tender  leniency. 
An  infraction  of  the  household  laws  brings  no  punishment  from  the 
mother,  and  if  persuasion  and  tears  will  not  avail,  the  culprit  goes  free. 
At  school  the  discipline  is  of  the  same  character.  No  scolding,  no 
correction  or  use  of  the  rod  is  ever  permitted.  The  laws  of  the 
country  are  express  and  explicit  on  this  point,  and  even  a  parent  so 
inclined  could  not  grant  this  privilege  to  the  teacher.  But  parents 
and  teachers  vie  with  each  other  in  inculcating  all  the  laws  of  polite- 
ness and  courtesy. 

I  wish  I  could  tell  half  I  have  seen  of  the  graces  and  courtesies 
of  these   children.       In   the  Alameda,  with  kindly  deference,  they  v\'ill 


240  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH   THE  MEXICANS. 

always  yield  to  elderl)'  and  infirm  persons  their  own  cozy  and  shady 
seats.  On  entering  a  sala,  where  there  are  few  or  many  guests,  these 
exquisitely  polite  little  gentlemen  will  go  all  around  shaking  hands 
with  every  one  present.  They  never  break  into  the  conversation,  but 
when  addressed  will  modestly  join  in  it  ;  then,  wishing  to  retire,  will 
say,  "  With  your  kind  permis-^ion,"  and  again  shaking  hands,  move 
gracefully  from  the  company.  Girls  are  no  less  imbued  with  the  same 
spirit  of  courtesy. 

A  Mexican  boy  never  thinks  himself  too  near  manhood  to  pay  the 
compliment  to  his  mother  of  kissing  her  hand  every  time  he  comes 
into  her  presence.  But  I  have  sometimes  seen  evidences  of  a  double 
motive  in  this  pretty  custom.  Every  one  of  these  lads  loves  to  pa- 
tronize the  dulcc  vender,  and  to  do  so  he  must  keep  in  the  good  graces 
of  his  mother.  While  he  stoops  to  imprint  a  kiss  upon  her  hand, 
he  whispers  in  her  ear,  "  Give  me  a  medio,  dear  mamma,  I  want  some 
dulces."     This  appeal  is  never  resisted. 

Children  are  entertained  by  their  mothers  with  an  inexhaustible 
supply  of  tales  and  legends.  Kings  and  queens  are  generally  the 
subjects  of  these  stories,  and  while  their  origin  is  Spanish,  much 
Mexican  sentiment  is  ingeniously  interwoven  with  them. 

Something  more  must  be  said  about  the  dear  babies  and  their 
clothing.  In  the  Aztec  country,  baby's  wardrobe  is  an  unpretentious 
affair.  The  custom  prevails  of  supplying  only  a  very  few  simple 
articles.  A  square  yard  of  flannel  and  one  of  muslin,  hemmed 
all  around  and  edged  with  lace  or  embroidery,  known  as  paiiale, 
are  wrapped  around  the  infant's  body  and  worn  for  three  months, 
when  little  drawers — cahoncillos — are  substituted.  Dresses  are  held 
in  reserve,  to  be  worn  on  special  occasions. 

In  wealthy  families  now,  however,  European  wardrobes  for  babies 
are  used,  yet  many  still  adhere  to  the  original  mode.  At  night  the 
nurse  wraps  a  small  rcbo::o  tightly  about  the  arms  and  hands  of  the 
little  one.  She  explains  that  baby  will  become  frightened  at  his 
hands  and  scratch  himself  with  his  nails.  In  some  families  the  rcbozo 
is  kept  wrapped  around  the  little  one's  arms  and   hands,  both   by  day 


THE   MEXICANS  IN    THEIR   HOMhS.  24! 

and  night,  so  there  is  no  danger  of  his  taking  fright  at  his  own  devel- 
opment. 

Poor  little  babes!  They  do  look  so  uncomfortable,  inveigled  in 
the  folds  of  the  relentless  rciwzo,  their  bodies  straightened  out  full 
length,  so  that  neither  arms  nor  legs  can  toss  about  if  colic  or  otlur 
baby  malady  should  overtake  them. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


FASTS   AND    FESTIVALS    AND    SOCIAL    FORMS. 


T  is  not  my  purpose  in  tliis  connection 
to  dwell  upon  the  past  history  or 
present  status  of  the  Church  in  Mex- 
ico, except  as  it  is  connected  with  the 
actual  lives  of  the  people. 

The  propriety  of  blending  social 
events,  household  customs,  and  relig- 
ious ceremonies,  as  one  subject  of 
description,  may  seem  questionable  to 
the  uninitiated  reader.  But  when  it  is 
understood  that  the  feast-days  of  the  church  are  holidays  for  the  peo- 
ple, and  that  these  feast-days  are  numerous,  and  without  these  holi- 
daj's  there  would  be  but  little  social  life,  the  harmony  of  these  sub- 
jects will  be  at  once  understood. 

I  have  been  assured  by  devoted  Mexican  Catholics,  who  have  re- 
sided both  in  the  United  States  and  in  Europe,  that  the  feast-days  in 
Mexico  are,  in  a  large  measure,  quite  different  from  those  observed  in 
other  countries,  while  they  are  so  numerous  that  to  a  stranger  it 
seems  as  if  there  is  one  for  every  day  in  the  year. 

The  bold  and  uncompromising  policy  of  Cortez  left  the  Mex- 
icans no  alternative  but  to  adopt  the  Christian  religion,  which 
was  made  acceptable  by  the  soothing  influences  of  the  early  mis- 
sionaries. 

Then,  too,  the  striking  ceremonies  of  the  Catholic  Church,  witli  its 


J-ASrS  AND   FhSTIVAl.S  AND    SOCIAL    FORMS.  243 

grand  language  in  an  unknown  tongue  and  its  mysterious  symbolism, 
rich  vestments  of  the  priests,  its  lights,  incense,  and  strange,  unearthly 
chants  of  the  tonsured  clergy,  seemed  to  harmonize  with  the  singular 
rites  of  the  pagans,  though  so  different  in  spirit. 

The  transition  from  the  native  ceremonies  to  the  ritual  of  the 
Catholic  Church  was  easy  to  a  people  who  loved  outward  show  and 
symbolism  ;  and  who  were  perhaps  more  attached  to  form  and  display 
and  mystical  devotion,  than  to  spiritual  elevation  and  humane  senti- 
ments. But  these  remarks  apply  onh'  to  the  primitive  races  who  so 
soon  and  readily  adopted  the  purer  faith  taught  by  tlie  Gospel,  and 
abandoned  those  horrible,  sanguinary  rites  that  characterized  them  as 
pagans. 

They  have  passed  through  many  phases  of  mysterious  and  severe 
misfortunes,  but  still  they  present  evidences  that  their  ancient  tradi- 
tions have  not  been  wholly  lost  ;  and  at  the  present  time  dim  traces 
of  them  are  manifested  in  their  religious  symbols.  Generations 
have  glided  by,  with  the  tales  of  their  sorrows,  joys,  and  calamities  ; 
despotisms  have  held  their  iron  sway  ;  some  of  the  most  magnificent 
structures — relics  of  an  art  superior  to  our  own — have  passed  away  ; 
another  faith  is  theirs;  but  one  may  discern  in  the  rites  of  catholicity, 
as  practiced  to-day  in  Mexico,  a  tinge  of  the  Indian  worship  of  the 
Aztecs.  It  is  said  that  even  recently  garlands  have  been  placed  by 
them  on  the  idols  in  the  court-yard  of  the  National  Museum,  and 
that  also  in  the  remote  caves  of  the  mountain  regions  the  ancient 
deities  are  still  secretly  worshiped. 

This  is  not  strange.  We  may  well  imagine  some  remote  wilds, 
where  the  old  races  still  exist,  with  their  endless  legends  and  tradi- 
tions ;  where  the  light  of  Christianity  has  never  beamed.  In  these 
secluded  fastnesses  still  dwell  their  old  men  and  women,  who  keep 
the  young  in  awe  of  the  grim  deities  their  forefathers  were  wont  to 
worship. 

The  government  of    New  Spain  went  on  under  the  viceroyalty  for 

nearly  three  centuries.     At  last  the  War  of  Independence  came,  and 

the  yoke  of  foreign  usurpation   was  thrown   off.     But  the  influence  of 
16 


244  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    1  HE    MEXICANS. 

the  old  Church  was  thoroughl}-  imbedded  in  the  hearts  of  the  people. 
Mexico  was  free  politically  from  a  foreign  power  ;  but,  nurtured  in 
absolutism,  the  mastery  of  Church  over  every  legal  power  was  com- 
plete. The  two  elements — that  of  religious  domination  and  of  civil 
liberty — arrayed  themselves  against  each  other.  The  former  was 
allied  with  the  most  powerful  ecclesiastical  body  in  the  world  ;  the 
latter,  though  few  in  numbers,  was  of  untiring  zeal  and  determination. 

The  wealth  of  the  Church  had  so  accumulated  that  it  owned  all 
the  best  property  in  the  Republic,  both  in  the  city  and  country. 
A  clerical  writer  of  good  authority  estimates  this  wealth  to  have 
been  86i  haciendas,  or  country  estates,  valued  at  $71,373,000,  and 
22,649  ^o'^s  of  city  property,  consisting  of  churches  and  convents, 
valued  at  $113,241,530 — a  total  of  8184,614,800. 

Other  estimates  have  been  made  giving  an  aggregate  of  the 
Church  wealth  at  §300,000,000;  and,  regardless  of  the  correctness  of 
these  estimates,  this  vast  wealth  was  handled  by  the  ecclesiastical 
body,  who  were  in  every  instance  able  business  men. 

The  rupture  of  Church  and  State,  and  their  complete  divorcement, 
came  about  by  the  ponderous  weight  of  the  former.  It  had  gone  on 
gathering  influence  and  power,  until,  like  an  over-full  river,  it  broke  its 
bounds.  The  time  in  human  economy  had  come  when  this  event  was 
a  necessity. 

In  1857,  Comonfort  issued  the  edict  that  eventually  laid  the 
Church  power,  strong  as  it  was.  trembling  in  the  balance.  But  his 
policy  was  not  completely  carried  out  until  the  iron  hand  and  fearless 
nerve  of  Juarez  grasped  the  whole  body  politic,  in  1867,  on  the  fall  of 
the  empire.  After  which  period  this  vast  propert)'  was  applied  to  the 
uses  of  the  state  and  government.  The  cathedrals  and  churches  were 
sold  or  converted  to  public  uses,  and  by  courtesy  only  the  clergy  be- 
came their  occupants.  Even  the  wearing  of  the  clerical  dress  in  the 
streets  was  forbidden  under  penalty  of  fine  and  imprisonment. 

Religious  parades,  which  had  before  been  so  imposing  and  mag- 
nificent, were  suppressed. 

Both  sisters  of  charity  and   Jesuits  were  sent  out  of   the  country 


EL   FLOR  DE  LA  NOCHE   BUENO 

CHRISTMAS    FLOWER. 


FASTS  AND   FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL   FORMS.  247 

with  \.\iQ\x personnel  z.ndi  property,  and  even  the  ringing  of  the  churcii 
bells  was  regulated  by  law. 

The  civil  law  was  upheld  in  every  particular,  even  in  prescribing 
all  those  holy  sacraments  which  the  Ciuirch  has  always  held  as 
sacredly  her  own. 

It  registers  births,  performs  the  marriage  ceremony,  and  buries  the 
dead.  While  the  Church  ceremony  is  not  prohibited  when  desired,  it 
is  legally  superfluous,  and  without  the  civil  law  null  and  void. 

But  with  all  this  curtailment  of  power,  the  Church  has  reached  a 
higher  moral  plane,  and  one  of  greater  dignity.  It  has  been  purified 
by  fire.  It  required  the  blood  of  a  pure  Indian  to  bring  to  terms  this 
great  power.  It  was  unquestionably  a  bold  stroke  to  have  been  made 
by  one  man,  with  only  at  first  a  few  adherents. 

The  government  still  watches  closely  the  movements  of  the  Church 
party,  which  is  represented  by  the  cathedral,  while  the  National 
Palace  is  the  domicile  of  the  liberal  party. 

The  soldiers  marching  to  and  fro  in  front  of  the  latter  furnish  a 
solemn  warning  that  not  even  a  bell  may  be  rung  in  those  grand 
towers,  if  any  attempt  be  made  to  override  the  civil  authority. 

It  should  be,  and  no  doubt  is,  the  earnest  desire  of  every  Catholic 
that  the  Church  in  Mexico  be  placed  on  the  same  footing  as  that  in 
the  United  States.  At  present  there  are  many  indications  pointing 
to  this  end. 

The  November  feasts,  beginning  with  All  Saints'  Day,  were  the 
first  of  interest  that  I  witnessed,  and  the  brilliant  capital  never  saw  a 
finer  inauguration  of  these  festivities.  The  rainy  season  was  ended, 
the  atmosphere  was  bracing,  as  is  always  the  case  at  that  time  of  the 
year,  and  these  happy  effects  harmonized  with  the  smiling  faces  of 
the  multitude,  as  they  moved  back  and  forth,  bearing  in  their  hands 
flowers  as  lovely  and  delicately  tinted  as  though  blushing  from  the 
kisses  of  angels. 

Strains  of  delightful  music  were  wafted  to  my  ears  upon  the  ekrly 
morning  air  from  organ  and  choir,  and  the  stronger  and  more  martial 
notes  of  stringed  and  brass  instruments.      Hundreds,  even   thousands, 


248  FACE    TO  FACE    ]VITI{  THE  MEXICANS. 

of  women  and  cliildrcn  in  their  best  clothes  wended  their  way  to  the 
various  churches.  Business  was  suspended,  even  the  school  children 
having  a  holiday ;  though  the  public  schools,  fostered  by  the  govern- 
ment, make  no  allowance  for  holidays  in  their  regulations. 

The  Alameda,  the  great  central  figure  of  every  outdoor  social 
event,  presented  a  picture  that  the  mind  loves  to  recall.  A  more  en- 
chanting scene  was  never  opened  to  the  appreciative  eye  in  even  the 
gay  and  beautiful  realms  of  Fairy  Land.  In  splendor  it  recalled 
"The  golden  prime  of  good  Haroun  al  Raschid." 

The  great  central  pavilion  was  illuminated  by  iridescent  lights, 
which  were  rendered  more  fairy-like  and  bewitching  by  numerous 
moss-draped  mirrors,  Chinese  lanterns,  brilliant  growing  plants,  the 
magnificent  fountain  with  its  silvery  showers,  and  the  basin  with  its 
dainty,  bright-colored  fishes,  streamers  and  flags  with  the  national 
ensign,  the  whole  making  a  gorgeous  Oriental  picture,  vibrating  under 
the  modern  electric  light. 

The  Zapadores,  of  Exposition  fame,  assisted  by  other  bands,  played 
alternately  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Sundays,  and  on  special  feast- 
days.  At  night  grand  concerts  took  place,  which  were  enjoyed  by 
the  most  cultured  and  elegant  society.  Occasionally  benefits  were 
given  for  charitable  purposes. 

The  play  of  Don  Juan  Tenorio,  that  is  known  throughout  Spaui 
and  Spanish  America,  comes  in  among  the  November  celebrations, 
being  placed  on  the  boards  on  All  Souls'  Day,  and  is  kept  there  as 
long  as  public  taste  approves. 

But  to  return  to  the  feast.  The  highest  testimonials  of  remem- 
brance were  on  that  day  given  to  the  beloved  dead.  Every  cemetery 
was  filled  to  its  utmost  capacity  with  mourning  relatives  and  friends. 
The  humblest  grave  at  Dolores  (cemetery  of  the  poor)  was  not  for- 
gotten, and  at  the  French  cemetery  the  scene  was  most  impressive. 
The  clergy  celebrated  mass  with  full  orchestral  accompaniment;  lights 
burned  everywhere,  while  the  glorious  tropical  sunshine  was  shut  out 
by  the  towering  forest  and  ornamental  shade  trees. 

Pictures  of  deceased  friends  and  relatives  were  placed  at  the  head- 


FASTS  AND    FESTIVALS   AND    SOCIAL    FOA'MS.  249 

stones,  while  garlands,  wreaths,  and  floral  emblems  encircled  them, 
almost  concealing  the  tomb  ;  and  as  the  priest  passed  from  grave  to 
grave,  with  solemn  intonation  and  pathetic  music,  there  were  few  dry 
eyes  in  that  vast  concourse.  For  whether  we  be  in  a  foreign  land  or 
on  our  own  soil,  any  tribute  to  the  lost  ones,  even  in  an  unknown 
tongue,  unlooses  the  pent-up,  silent  grief  of  our  hearts,  and  the  pangs 
of  to-day  are  those  of  long  ago.  We  "  weep  with  those  who  weep." 
Our  tears  are  for  them,  and  for  ourselves,  and  for  the  griefs  of  human- 
ity. It  is  a  recognition  of  the  universal  brotherhood — that  "  touch  of 
nature  "  which  "  makes  the  whole  work!  kin." 

The  most  touching  mass  that  I  witnessetl  that  day  in  the  I'rench 
cemetery  was  celebrated  before  a  monument  that  had  been  erected 
to  the  memory  of  "  All  the  mothers  and  the  fathers  who  have  died  in 
other  lands,  when  separated  from  their  children,  who  lived  in  far-off 
Mexico." 

The  American  dead  were  not  forgotten,  and  the  last  resting-places 
of  the  humble  and  unfortunate,  as  well  as  the  wealthy  and  influential, 
were  over-laid  with  lovely  floral  tributes. 

The  Alameda,  with  its  indescribable  attractions,  continues  nightly, 
throughout  the  month,  to  be  filled  with  an  elegantly  dressed  crowd, 
who  revel  m  this  gorgeous  and  bewildering  realm  of  beauty.  The 
holiday  look  everywhere  is  kept  up  in  anticipation  of  the  most  uni- 
versally celebrated  of  all  the  feast-days  of  the  country,  that  of  the 
Virgin  de  Guadalupe — the  patron  saint  of  Mexico — which  takes  place 
on  the  1 2th  of  December. 

She  is  venerated  in  all  Spanish-America,  and  the  story  of  her 
mysterious  appearance  to  Juan  Diego  is  firmly  believed  by  thou- 
sands of  every  grade  and  class.  The  most  ignorant  Indian  mi\y  not 
know  of  the  President,  Congress,  or  machinery  of  government,  but  he 
is  sure  to  be  well  informed  as  to  the  merits  of  "  Our  Lady  of  Guada- 
lupe." No  doubt  the  tradition  with  its  fascinating  sentiment  has  been 
the  means  of  inducing  many  wandering  and  scattered  tribes  of 
Indians  to  enlist  themselves  in  the  service  of  the  Church. 

We  are  told   that  when   the  patriot   Hidalgo  placed  the  image  of 


>So 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


the  Virgin  Guadalupe  on  his  banner,  the  royalists  bitterly  persecuted 
those  who  worshiped  at  her  shrine ;  and  at  once  stamped  on  their 
own  banners  the  representation  of  the  Spanish  Virgin,  "  N'ncstra  Scii- 
ora  de  los  Reined ios." 

These  two  ladies,  as  representing  the  different  causes,  were  bitter 
rivals  throughout  the  War  of  Independence.  I^ut  the  native  blood 
and  determination  were  the  stronger,  and  when  Augustin  de  Iturbide 
became  Emperor,  the  Indian  Virgin  resumed  the  absolute  sovereign- 
ty which  she  this  day  holds.  So  dear  is  her  name  that  thousands  of 
children  are  annuaily  christened  by  it. 

For  days  before  the  inauguration  of  the  festivities  in  honor  of 
Guadalupe,  both  the  capital  and  the  highways  leading  to  this  sacred 
shrine  were  alive  with  people  making  preparations  for  the  occasion. 
Platforms  to   be  occupied   by  bands  of  music  were  erected   at   every 

prominent  street  corner,  and  every  garden 
■awA  plaza  showed  signs  that  something  un- 
usual was  about  to  transpire. 

Indians  had  tramped  a  thousand  or  more 
miles  in  order  to  be  present.  They  had 
brought  with  them  the  various  wares  and 
products  of  their  own  labor  peculiar  to  their  respective  sections,  and 
sold  them  through  the  streets — among  them  many  articles  of  rare, 
beautiful,  and  .skillful  workmanship. 

In  the  Zocalo  the  palm  huts  and  rush-covered  booths  suggested  an 
affinity  between  the  native  Indian  and  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  but  the 
novelty  and  variety  of  the  surroundings 
precluded  prolonged  speculation.  The 
bazars,  shaded  by  cypress  boughs,  were 
presided  over  by  Indian  maidens  endowed 
with  great  versatility  of  talent  and  with 
an  abundant  supply  of  small  talk  for 
every  customer.  Their  stock  in  trade  was 
unique — Nascimientos,  representing  the 
birth  of  Christ,  in  figures  of    wax,  candy. 


READY     FOR     THE    FIESTA. 


AN    ORCHID    WITH    PINK    CENTER. 


FASTS  AND   FESTIVALS  Ai\D    SOCIAL    FORMS.  25  I 

and  clay  being  the  principal  ones,  though  one  may  also  find  many 
other  specimens  of  curious  and  ingenious  handicraft. 

Everything  and  everybod}'  took  on  a  holiday  look  in  their  new 
clothes,  which  none  had  omitted  except  the  Indians.  The  azotcas 
were  also  enlivened  by  thousands  of  people,  who  enjoyed  the  brilliant 
display  of  pyrotechnics,  and  every  imaginable  species  of  illumina- 
tion. 

A  party  of  Americans  of  which  I  was  one,  with  a  few  Mexican 
friends,  went  to  Guadalupe  the  night  before  the  grand  fiesta  was  to 
take  place.  To  adequately  describe  the  scene  would  require  the  pen 
of  a  Dickens.  The  poor,  the  lame,  the  halt,  the  blind  had  been  here 
congregated,  as  well  as  the  hale  and  hearty,  with  t\\e\r petates,  vessels 
of  pottery  and  other  things  needful  for  the  occasion.  While  the  archi- 
tectural beauty  of  the  cathedral  was  displayed,  the  grotesquely  attired 
multitude  was  also  thrown   into  relief. 

Inside  the  inclosure  of  the  church  the  stillness  of  death  marked 
the  sleeping  multitude.  Overcome,  perhaps,  by  the  fatigue  of  the  long 
journey  from  their  homes,  hundreds  of  women  and  children  slept 
peacefully,  undisturbed  b\-  the  gaze  of  the  curious  foreigners  who 
stepped  over  them  to  enter  the  portals  of  the  cathedral. 

It  seemed  to  me  that  hundreds  of  poor  women,  wrapped  only  in 
their  rcbozos,  with  occasionalh'  a  blanket,  were  asleep,  and  in  their  im- 
movable postures  transfixed  to  mother  earth.  Now  and  then  one 
might  be  seen  upon  her  knees,  devoutly  offering  up  the  prayers  of  her 
faith,  while  tears  stole'gently  down  the  weather-beaten  faces  of  others. 
Here  as  everywhere,  making  himself  conspicuous  and  well  known,  was 
the  ever-present,  insatiable  papoose. 

Within  the  cathedral,  the  soft  tones  of  the  organ,  aided  and  en- 
hanced by  the  youthful  voices  of  the  choristers,  filled  the  vast  temple 
with  solemn  harmony. 

An  indescribable  multitude  of  worshipers  had  assembled  there, 
among  whom  Indian  women  on  their  knees,  with  candles  in  their 
hands,  and  children  strapped  to  their  backs,  moved  down  the  grand 
old  aisles  murmuring  their  "■Ave  Marias." 


252  FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

A  contrasting  scene  was  presented  as  we  passed  through  the  great 
doorway  on  our  way  out.  Two  men — one  of  them  very  old,  with  a 
pair  of  green  spectacles  which  looked  as  if  made  by  a  blacksmith — 
were  deeply  engaged  in  singing  from  a  home-manufactured  book,  as 
I  discovered  by  peeping  over,  a  rude  chant,  without  rhyme,  reason, 
time,  tune,  or  ending.  They  sang  yN\\.\\  gusto,  oblivious  of  the  interest 
with  which  we  regarded  them,  and  each  utterly  regardless  of  what  the 
other  was  singing.  It  was  the  strangest  duet  that  was  ever  framed — 
two  cracked  voices,  in  utter  discord,  the  singers  as  serious  as  pictured 
saints.  The  faces  of  the  men,  the  spectacles,  the  book,  the  rattling 
discord  of  the  duet,  seen  and  heard  by  the  dim  light  of  a  tallow  dip, 
flickering  in  the  December  wind,  formed  a  woe-begone  scene  that 
should  be  painted  by  a  Hogarth. 

The  chapel  on  the  hill  of  Tepayac  can  be  reached  only  by  a  tire- 
some tramp  up,  perhaps,  two  hundred  steps,  cut  in  the  side  of  the 
mountain,  and  here  we  were  held  in  unbroken  admiration  of  the  scene 
below.  The  valley,  bathed  in  the  chastened  light  of  a  glorious  full 
moon,  lay  serenely  at  our  feet  and  stretched  beyond  to  its  mountain 
limits  in  the  dim  distance.  The  air  was  sweet,  balmy  and  refreshing, 
even  on  that  mid-December  night.  All  this  was  the  handiwork  of 
nature  in  her  sublimest  moods.  But  what  a  contrast  when  we  turned  to 
the  little //(r.s'rt  in  front  of  the  grand  cathedral  and  beheld  the  multi- 
tudinous assemblage  of  human  beings  on  grand  parade,  in  fatigue 
suits  and  undress  uniforms!  True,  the  mellow  moonlight  was  over 
them,  as  over  us;  but  nearer  were  tiie  flare  of  torches;  the  flickering 
of  camp-fires,  by  the  lights  of  wiiich  the  crowds  moved  about  like 
characters  in  pantomime,  and  with  the  Babel  of  voices,  the  songs  of 
the  Indians,  the  fire-crackers  and  sky-rockets,  suggested  to  us  on  the 
height,  instead  of  a  vast  religious  congregation,  rather  a  demoniacal 
pandemonium.  Now  and  again  the  swelling  notes  of  the  organ  were 
heard  above  the  din,  but  these  were  soon  lost  in  the  pealing  of  bells 
from  the  towers  as  they  revolved  rapidly  in  the  gay  lights  of  the 
national  colors,  until  the  valley  was  filled  with  their  deep-toned  utter- 
ances. 


J^ASTS  AND   FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL    FORMS. 


253 


We  went  down  the  steps  and  were  soon  lost  in  the  variegated  con- 
course, but  our  interest  was  undinninished.  Confronted  on  every  hand 
by  gambling  booths,  tents,  palm  huts,  and  a  motley  multitude,  cook- 
ing, eating  and  drinking,  to  open  the  way  for  our  exit  required  the 
strength  of  a  Hercules.  We  had  glimpses  of  men  and  women  in  the 
booths  who  played  on  harp,  guitar,  and  bandolin,  and   if  their  faces 


A    FEW    UF  THOSE   WHO  ATTENDED   THE    FEAST  OF  GUADALUPE, 


had  been  carved   from  wood  or  stone,  they  could  not  have  been  more 
immobile  or  expressionless. 

The  defects,  by  night-time,  in  a  picture  so  realistic,  were  concealed 
in  a  measure  by  the  glamour  of  moonlight  and  torchlight,  but  the 
longing  of  unsatisfied  human  nature  urged  us  to  return  on  Sun- 
day afternoon  to  take  a  more  prosaic  view  of  it  in  the  broad,  open 
daylight.     It  was  a  cruel   and  a  crucial   test.     An  army  of  beggars  in 


254  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

rags,  hundreds  of  children  —  faces  unwashed,  hair  unkempt — sallied 
around,  gnawing  on  great  chunks  of  meat,  playing  in  huge  basins  of 
soup,  scooping  up  frijoies  w'xth  /or/iY/rtj,  or  screaming  and  fighting  with 
the  myriads  of  dogs.  Gambling  was  in  full  force  ;  women  were  cook- 
ing in  every  way  known  from  the  time  of  Adam,  selling  everything, 
screaming  their  prices,  and,  like  the  tireless  venders  they  are,  seldom 
failing  to  secure  a  purchaser.  Some  presided  in  booths,  gayly  lined 
with  fruits  and  flowers,  and  danced,  sang,  and  patronized  you,  while 
generously  overflowing  with  pulque.  The  air  was  filled  with  an  indis- 
criminate jangle  of  most  unearthly  sounds,  from  a  variety  of  very 
earthly  instruments,  which,  with  the  dust,  the  odor  of  meat  cooking 
and  the  fumes  from  the  crowd  added,  made  us  hurry  along  to  the 
chapel  on  the  hill,  where  a  treat  was  in  store  for  us.  The  Indians 
from  the  fastnesses  of  the  Sierras,  in  the  far  north  were  to  dance  in 
their  peculiar  costumes. 

Animated  by  insatiable  curiosity,  and  anxious  to  witness  the  entire 
ceremonials,  I  pressed  through  the  crowd  of  pobrcs  to  the  inner  circle. 
What  a  scene  !  The  wildest,  most  fantastically  decked  beings  that 
mortal  eye  ever  beheld  were  in  the  inner  space.  The  old  men,  adults, 
and  boys,  with  their  immense  panaches  of  variegated  colors  that  tow- 
ered to  startling  height ;  their  curiously  wrought  dresses  that  were 
strongly  marked  with  the  national  colors,  somewhat  resembling  the 
kilt  of  the  Scottish  highlanders ;  their  ornamented  moccasins;  the 
women  and  little  girls  with  their  curious  masks  of  coarse  gauze,  in 
black  and  white,  crowned  with  immense  wreaths  of  feathers,  of  every 
variety,  intermingled  with  flashing  tinsels,  with  tawdry  dresses  of 
many  colors,  and  in  fashion  not  unlike  the  kilt  of  the  men  and  boys, 
made  a  scene  that  was  grotesque  and  fantastic  beyond  description. 
Then  the  dance  !  They  formed  circles — the  men  on  the  outer  circle 
and  the  women  on  the  first  inner  circle — and  again  other  circles  of 
the  younger  Indians  of  both  sexes,  forming  one  within  the  other. 
The  everlasting  jangle  and  trum-trum  of  the  ghastly  jarana  covered 
with  the  skin  of  an  armadillo,  looking  like  an  exhumed  skeleton,  with 
the  finery  of  flaunting  ribbons  floating  around  it,  its  harsh   notes  min-- 


/^■ASrS  AND  FESTIVALS    AND    SOCIAL    FORMS.  ^^7 

gling  with  the  drowning  wail  of  the  wild  musician  who  played  as 
though  in  a  frenzy,  were  in  keeping  with  the  whole  scene.  The  circles, 
with  all  their  varied  colors,  danced  in  opposite  directions  with  a  slow, 
bouncing  step  that  was  half  a  waltz,  half  minuet,  and  as  they  pro- 
ceeded they  grew  more  excited — more  frenzied — the  musician  seem- 
ingly more  infused  with  his  awful  duty,  and  the  dancers  stepping 
higher  and  higher,  the  circles  wheeling  more  rapidly,  until  the  ear  was 
overpowered  and  the  eye  confused  with  the  endless  changes  of  faces, 
colors,  and  sounds.  It  was  the  wildest,  most  mournful  dance  that 
mortal  could  invent;  and  it  seemed  as  if  the  souls  of  the  devotees 
were  in  the  movement.  It  was  a  sort  of  paroxysm  of  physical  devo- 
tion, and  seemed  to  exhaust  its  votaries. 

Having  concluded  the  dance  to  the  honor  and  glory  of  Guadalupe, 
they  filed  into  the  church  chanting  a  low,  monotonous  hymn.  I  was 
the  first  to  enter  after  them,  followed  closely  by  m)'  friends.  When 
they  reached  the  altar,  where  a  large  picture  of  the  Virgin  was  sus- 
pended, all  dropped  down  on  their  knees  in  regular  lines  of  fours, 
and  began  crossing  themselves  and  murmuring  their  patcr-tiostcrs. 
Catching  the  spirit  of  the  occasion,  and  unwilling  to  wound  their 
acute  religious  sensibilities  by  the  close  proximity  of  idle  sight-seers, 
we  followed  their  example  and  knelt  for  a  few  moments.  But  so  ab- 
sorbed were  the  devotees,  or  so  natural  our  movements,  that  we 
remained  unnoticed  among  the  worshipers. 

The  man  who  played  on  ihejarnna  (harana)  recited  prayers,  the 
•  others  responding.  After  this  they  sang  a  litany,  accompanied 
by  low  moaning  sounds,  as  if  in  anguish  of  spirit,  while  every 
eye  was  fixed  steadily  upon  the  patron  saint  in  mute  appeal,  and 
tears  streamed  spontaneously  down  these  bronzed  and  hard-used 
faces. 

After  half  an  hour  thus  spent  upon  their  knees,  they  arose,  and 
still  accompanied  by  the  strange  music  from  the  ghastly  instrument, 
that  seemed  to  have  taken  on  a  more  unearthly  character,  moved 
backward,  making  a  low  courtesy  at  each  step,  and,  as  they  filed  out 
noiselessly  in  their  strange  tongue,  sang  in  chorus  : 


258  FACE    TO   FACE    IVFIII    THE   MEXICANS. 

I. 

"  From  Heaven  she  descended, 
Triumphant  and  glorious, 
To  favor  us — 
La  Guadalupana. 

II. 

"  Farewell,  Guadalupe  ! 
Queen  of  the  Indians  ! 
Our  life  is  Thine, 
This  kingdom  is  Tliine. 

III. 

"  Farewell,  Guadalupe  ! 
Queen  of  the  Indians  ! 
We  who  leave  you  to-day 
Know  not  who  may  come  again." 

When  they  withdrew  from  the  church,  our  party  following  closely, 
the  dancing  was  resumed  with  added  fervor.  Before  I  was  aware  of 
the  fact,  my  feet  were  going  up  and  down,  out  and  arounti,  in  imita- 
tion of  the  Indians,  and  greatly  to  the  amusement  of  my  friends  and 
the  spectators,  some  exclaiming,  "  Que  chiila !  Mira  la  nina  bai- 
landa !  "  ("  How  pretty!  Lool-  at  the  child  dancing!  ')  which  broke 
the  spell,  recalled  me  to  myself,  and  joining  my  party,  we  went  down 
the  hill.  But  before  we  had  gone  down  ten  of  the  almost  countless 
steps,  one  of  the  most  picturesquel}'  attired  of  all  the  Indians  was 
walking  by  my  side,  making  a  bargain  with  mc  for  the  sale  of  his 
crown  and  feathers. 

While  the  scene  I  had  just  witnessed  had,  at  times,  an  effect  to 
excite  merriment,  the  contrary  feeling  of  sadness  and  almost  rever- 
ence prevailed.  I  could  not  but  feel  awe  in  the  presence  of  tiiose 
dark  children  of  the  wild  mountains  as  they  performed  their  mystical 
devotions  and  sang  the  rude  barbaric  songs  that  had  in  their  tones 
the  strangeness  of  another  world.  They  were  so  earnest,  so  devout, 
so   loving  to  the   Mother  of  the  shrine,  and  their  grief  so  deep,  when 


/^.-isrs   AND    FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL    FORMS.  259 

they  plaintively  looked  on  her   image,  and  bowed  in  a  sorrowing  fare- 
well, that  they  excited  a  sympathetic  feeling  in  the  coldest  heart. 

I  was  forcibly  reminded  of  the  lines  of  our  great  American  poet, 
who  so  fully  appreciated  the  mystery  of  Indian  character,  religion, 
and  tradition  : 

"  Ye  whose  hearts  are  fresh  and  simple. 
Who  have  faith  in  God  and  Nature, 
Who  believe,  that  in  all  ages 
Every  human  heart  is  human, 
That  in  even  savage  bosoms 
There  are  longings,  yearninijs,  strivings, 
For  the  good  they  comprehend  not, 
That  the  feeble  hands  and  lielpless. 
Groping  blindly  in  the  darkness, 
Touch  God's  right  hand  in  that  darkness. 
And  are  lifted  up  and  strengthened." 

At  the  sacred  shrine  of  Guadalupe,  eight  days  after  the  feast  has 
been  duly  celebrated  by  the  Indians  and  cominon  people,  the  wealth, 
beauty,  and  fashion  of  the  capital  wend  their  way  thither  to  tender 
their  renewed  obligations  to  the  patron  saint. 

I  was  a  guest  at  a  sumptuous  celebration  in  honor  of  the  Seilora 
Dofia  Guadalupe  Bros,  who  invited  me  to  participate  in  the  cere- 
monies and  festivities  of  her  dia  de  santa. 

At  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning  mass  was  celebrated  in  the  chapel, 
with  the  administration  of  the  Holy  Communion,  followed  by  an  im- 
pressive sermon  from  the  young  cura  of  the  church  of  Santa  Vera 
Cruz — Daniel  Escobar.  A  full  orchestra  dispensed  the  sweet  and 
solemn  strains  of  Mozart. 

Many  distinguished  society  people  were  there,  among  them  the 
wife  and  daughters  of  General  Corona.  The  ladies  all  wore  black 
dresses  with  lace  mantillas. 

The  numerous  lighted  tapers  were  gifts  from  foundling  and  orphan 
institutions,  of  which  the  Senora  Dofla  Guadalupe  is  a  benefactress. 
All   were  deeply  moved   by  the  solemnity  of  the  services,  the  more 


26o  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

evidently  so  that   their  noble  hostess  and   relative  was  weak  and  in- 
firm in  health. 

After  mass  a  light  breakfast  was  served  in  the  grand  dining-room 
consisting  of  coffee,  chocolate,  and  breads  in  great  variety.  The 
•sumptuous  and  elaborate  dinner  took  place  at  three  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon.  The  orchestra  in  the  corridor,  supplemented  by  the  sing- 
ing of  birds  in  the  aviary,  filled  up  the  pauses  with  sweet  sounds. 
Covers  were  laid  for  a  hundred  guests,  the  elite  of  society,  among 
them  many  of  the  most  distinguished  men  in  Mexico — writers,  orators, 
statesmen — including  Altamirano  and  the  venerable  Guillermo  Prieto. 

In  the  evening  a  brilliant  ball  was  given  in  the  sala  grande,  and  for 
several  days  dinners  and  balls  and  general  rejoicings  followed.  The 
gifts  received  by  the  Dona  Guadalupe  were  numerous  and  elegant, 
and  had  the  additional  charm,  in  most  instances,  of  being  useful,  hand- 
wrought  articles  of  every  imaginable  kind.  One  chair  alone,  the  gift 
of  Dona  Josefina,  had  required  six  months  to  embroider. 

General  T'alacio  and  wife,  the  noble  Josefina,  gave  their  aunt  a 
fitncion  partienlar,  in  the  way  of  a  theatrical  performance  in  tlie 
house,  which  was  again  a  brilliant  affair.  Three  short  plays  were  pre- 
sented, a  melodrama,  a  tragedy,  and  a  comedy. 

The  players  were  amateurs,  friends  of  the  family,  and  acquitted 
themselves  admirably.  I  was  particularly  impressed  by  the  talent 
displayed  by  a  young  comedian,  Francisco  Cardona,  who  continually 
brought  down  the  house  with  his  hits  on  the  times. 

The  feasts  of  Guadalupe  at  Morelia  were  unusually  brilliant. 
Thousands  of  the  faithful  attended  the  matins  in  the  cathedral.  The 
houses  were  decorated  and  the  pyrotechnica!  display  was  very  fine. 
At  sunset,  and  as  soon  as  the  bells  chimed,  an  riHegorical  car,  repre- 
senting the  apparition  of  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  started  through 
the  principal  street  from  the  portico  of  the  cathedral  toward  the  San 
Diego  Church,  followed  by  great  crowds.  Fireworks  crossed  the  sky, 
giving  it  the  appearance  of  a  dome  of  fire. 

In  Queretaro  these  feasts  were  equally  splendid.  The  city  was  con- 
verted into  a  great  garden.     Triumphal    arches   spanned    the  streets. 


BITS    FROM    GUADALUPE. 


M-RsiTs, 


FASTS   AND   FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL    FORMS.  263 

The  capitol  was  covered  with  fluttering  streamers,  banners  and  bunt- 
ing of  tri-color,  stretched  from  balcony  to  balcony,  from  post  to  post 
and  from  roof  to  roof.  At  night  the  illumination  was  general.  Ouere- 
taro  seemed  wrapped  in  a  mantle  of  fire.  The  towers  of  its  church 
and  the  roofs  of  its  highest  buildings  were  crowded  with  flames  of  dif- 
ferent colors  that  oscillated  in  the  winds.  Fireworks  were  kept  up 
till  midnight. 

A  Mexican  Christmas  is  very  unlike  one  in  the  United  States. 
No  merry  jingle  of  sleigh-bells  is  heard  in  this  sunny  land  where 
the  rigors  of  winter  are  unknown,  and  the  few  lofty  peaks,  where 
alone  snow  is  ever  seen,  would  hardly  tempt  the  most  adventurous 
tobogganist. 

As  there  are  no  chimneys,  Santa  Claus  is  deprived  of  his  legitimate 
and  time-honored  entrance  into  households,  so  the  delightful  and 
immemorial  custom  of  hanging  up  stockings  is  unknown  to  Mexican 
children.  But  perhaps  they  enjoy  themselves  quite  as  much  after  their 
own  fashion  as  ours  do.  One  circumstance  in  their  favor  is  the  long- 
continued  celebration,  which,  beginning  on  the  evening  of  the  17th  of 
December  and  continuing  till  New-Year's  Day,  is  one  long,  delightful 
jubilee. 

The  celebrations  in  honor  of  Guadalupe  extend  from  the  12th  un- 
til the  posadas,  or  nine  days'  festivities.  The  last  prayers  on  the  lips 
of  the  faithful  and  the  last  tones  from  organ  and  choir  in  praise  of  the 
patron  saint,  hardly  die  away  ere  the  Christmas  rejoicings  begin. 

The  word  posada  signifies  an  inn,  and  the  whole  observance  is  a 
relic  bequeathed  by  the  Spaniards.  The  celebration  is  limited  almost 
exclusively  to  the  capital  and  the  larger  cities,  and  may  be  considered 
more  as  a  social  feature  than  belonging  specially  to  the  Church — 
though  really  combining  the  elements  of  both. 

It  is  a  reminder  of  the  Nativity,  based  on  the  Gospel  narrative,  but 
with  additions.  When  Caesar  Augustus  issued  the  decree  that  "  all 
the  world  should  be  taxed,"  the  Virgin  and  Joseph  came  from  Galilee 
to  Judea  to  enroll  their  names  for  taxation.  Bethlehem,  their  city, 
was  so  full  of  people  from   all  parts  of  the  world   that  they  wandered 


264  FACE    TO   FACE    \i  ITII    THE   MEXICANS. 

about  for  nine  days,  without  finding  admittance  in  either  hotel  or 
private  house.  As  nothing  better  offered,  they  at  last  took  refuge  in 
a  manger,  where  the  Saviour  was  born. 

The  first  act  of  the  posada  represents  the  journey  of  the  Virgin 
Mary  and  Joseph  from  Nazareth  to  Bethlehem,  and  the  difficulties 
they  experienced  in  finding  shelter.  The  family  and  invited  guests 
march  in  procession  through  halls  and  around  corridors,  holding  in 
their  hands  lighted  tapers  and  singing  solemn  litanies.  Before  the 
procession,  the  figures  of  Mary  and  Joseph  are  borne  along  by  ser- 
vants or  young  boys.  Each  door  they  pass  is  knocked  upon,  but 
no  answer  or  invitation  to  enter  is  given,  and  so  the  procession  con- 
tinues to  move  around,  singing  and  knocking,  until,  at  last,  a  door  is 
opened,  when  they  all  enter  and  mass  is  said  and  hymns  are  sung  with 
all  possible  solemnity,  after  which  the  other  interesting  features  of 
\\\Q posada  are  presented,  as  hereafter  related.  Sometimes  a  burro  is 
introduced  to  represent  the  faithful  animal  that  carried  the  holy 
family  in  their  journeyings. 

All  over  the  city  is  heard  the  litany  of  \.\\c  posadas,  sung  in  a  hun- 
dred homes,  as  the  pilgrimages  wind  in  and  out  of  the  rooms  and 
round  the  improvised  shrines.  Venetian  lights  hang  in  \\\i^  patios,  and 
fireworks  blaze  skyward  in  every  direction.  One  of  the  most  interest- 
ing features  is  the  infantile  resort  set  up  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
plaza.  The  Zocalo  is  a  bewitching  place  ;  lights  flash  through  the 
branches  of  pine  and  cypress,  and  the  place  is  alive  with  children  of 
the  first  families  of  Mexico. 

The  breaking  of  the pinate  is  the  chief  sport  of  the  posada.  The 
pinate  is  an  oval-shaped,  earthen  jar,  handsomely  decorated  and  cov- 
ered with  bright  ornaments,  tinsel,  gay  flowers,  and  flaunting  stream- 
ers of  tissue  paper.  The  common  people  are  experts  in  the  manufacture 
of  these  curious  objects,  and  when  a  vender  of  them  is  seen  peram- 
bulating the  streets,  it  is  worth  while  stopping  to  examine  his  stock  in 
trade.  There  are  turkeys,  horses,  birds,  monkeys — in  fact,  every  beast, 
bird  or  fowl  of  the  air  that  is  known.  In  addition,  there  are  chil- 
dren almost  life-sized,  and  even  brides,  with  the  trained  dress,  veil  and 


FASTS  AND   FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL   FORMS. 


265 


orange  blossoms.  But  oh  !  the  hapless  fate  of  these  earthen  brides  ! 
They  are  soon  beaten  and  smashed  into  atoms  by  the  fun-loving  crowd. 
The  holy  figures  are  left  in  the  chapel  after  the  litanies  are 
ended,  and  then,  either  in  the  patio  or  a  room  selected  for  the  pur- 
pose, the  fun  of  breaking  the  pihate  begins.  It  is  suspended  from  the 
ceiling,  and  each  person  desiring  to  take  part  is,  in  turn,  blindfolded. 


HIS    STOrK    IN    TRADE    OF   GAY    PINATES. 


Armed  with  a  long  pole,  he  proceeds  to  strike  the  swinging  pinatc. 
Often  a  dozen  people  are  blindfolded  before  the  final  crash  comes,  and 
the  dukes  go  rattling  over  the  floor.  Then  such  racing  and  chasing ! 
The  first  posada  that  I  attended  was  impromptu  without  the  pro- 
cession, litany,  or  Mary  and  Joseph  ;  the  pinate  was  a  monkey,  and 
my  young  Mexican  friends  insisted  I  should  be  the  one  to  break  it. 
Being  duly  blindfolded,  and  armed  with  a  long  pole,  while  the  crowd 


266  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

of  Spanish-speaking  people  looked  on,  asserting  that  I  could  and  would 
not  fail  in  the  effort,  I  set  confidently  about  my  task.  But  no  sound 
came  of  broken  crockery  or  falling  dukes. 

The  rule  was,  that  every  one  should  have  three  trials.  After  the 
third  stroke  imagine  my  chagrin,  when  the  handkerchief  was  removed, 
to  see  the  monkey  above  my  head,  slowly  descending,  grinning  and 
wriggling  his  tail.  A  wild  and  clamorous  burst  of  laughter  went  up 
when  I  discovered  the  trick.  They  insisted  that  I  should  have 
another  stroke  at  his  monkeyship  ;  so,  acting  on  the  rule,  "  If  at  first 
you  don't  succeed,"  blindfolded  and  pole  in  hand,  I  advanced,  and, 
with  one  vigorous  stroke,  shivered  it,  amid  shouts  of  laughter  and 
rounds  of  applause.     No  dukes  were  ever  so  sweet  to  me ! 

A  happy  event  for  me  was  an  invitation  from  General  Palacio's 
household  to  attend  the  posadas  in  their  house,  affording  me  the 
opportunity  of  witnessing  a  distinctively  national  custom  in  all  its 
true  elegance. 

Mary  and  Joseph  were  represented  by  two  wax  figures,  placed 
upon  a  flower-wreathed,  moss-embowered  vehicle,  made  for  the 
purpose,  and  propelled  by  an  enthusiastic  youth.  The  procession, 
consisting  of  the  family  and  invited  guests,  formed  on  the  corridor, 
which  had  been  profusely  decorated  for  the  occasion.  The  posada 
began  with  the  singing  of  a  hymn,  in  which  all  participated  with  due 
solemnity.  We  marched  around  the  corridor,  with  candles  in  our 
hands,  preceded  by  the  images,  knocking  at  a  door  each  time,  but 
were  always  refused  admittance  by  some  one  inside  the  rooms.  At 
last  we  knocked  at  the  chapel  door,  where  we  sang  a  petition,  as  if 
Mary  and  Joseph  themselves  were  imploring  admittance.  Questions 
from  within  called  forth  the  natural  responses  from  the  wayfarers 
without,  who  sang,  '■  The  night  is  cold  and  dark,  and  the  woman  who 
seeks  a  night's  lodgings  is  the  Queen  of  Heaven,  having  not  where  to 
lay  her  head." 

The  door  at  once  opened,  the  weary  pair  entered,  and  the  proces- 
sion moved  into  the  chapel  singing  a  ringing  anthem,  which  to  me 
had  the  spirit  of  our  ever-familiar  ''All  hail  the  power."     The  litar.y 


FASTS  AND   FESTIVALS  AXD    SOCIAL    FORMS.  267 

and  prayers  followed,  after  which  we  went  down  stairs  to  the  theater, 
where  the  fun  and  merrymaking  began  in  earnest,  leaving  Mary  and 
Joseph  alone  in  the  chapel. 

Once  seated  in  the  theater,  two  of  the  gentlemen  guests,  dressed  in 
the  uniforms  of  gens-d' amies,  presented  themselves,  bearing  silver 
trays — one  loaded  with  brilliant  badges  in  the  national  colors,  and  the 
other  with  handsome  finger  rings,  ornamented  with  settings  of  various 
stones.  These  badges  and  rings  were  passed  to  each  guest  with  the 
most  courtly  grace  by  the  pompous,  sham  gcns-d' amies,  who  could  ill 
conceal  a  smile  on  their  sober  faces.  My  ring  was  of  seed-pearls  and 
sapphires. 

A  long  chit-chat  followed,  as  we  adorned  ourselves  with  badges 
and  compared  rings.  The  ladies  were  seated  in  a  circle,  and  the  men 
passed  around  in  groups,  or  singly,  and  all  being  acquainted,  the  live- 
liest sallies  and  repartee  were  heard  on  every  side,  and  good  humor 
and  mirth  to  overflowing  filled  every  heart. 

At  length  a  bell  rings,  the  curtain  rises,  and  an  enchanting  scene 
greets  our  wondering  gaze:  a  vine-embowered  stage  covered  with  a 
wealth  of  tropical  plants  and  flowers ;  mossy  grottoes,  sparkling 
fountains  and  mimic  cascades,  which  seem  a  part  of  nature's  own 
handiwork;  ornaments  of  precious  metals  wrought  in  most  elaborate 
patterns,  gorgeously  attired  characters  ;  all  under  the  blaze  of  the 
dazzling  lights,  form  a  scene  which  might  have  been  produced  by  the 
Genii  of  Aladdin's  Lamp. 

Two  gentlemen  in  costumes  of  the  time  of  Louis  XIV.,  richly 
overlaid  with  gold  and  silver  embroidery,  were  discovered.  One  was 
dressed  in  blue  coat,  with  white  knee-breeches,  while  the  colors  of  the 
other  were  pink  and  cream  color.  Both  wore  flowing,  curled  wigs. 
They  stood  on  opposite  sides  of  a  richly  carved  table,  on  which 
was  a  glittering  display  of  magnificently  wrought  silver,  comprising 
not  only  the  plate  of  the  Palacio  family,  but  also  the  service  pre- 
sented by  the  Emperor  of  Austria.  Two  servants  dressed  as  pages  in 
satin  suits,  wigged  and  powdered,  stood  near  the  cavaliers,  and  with 
profound  respect  presented  salvers  loaded  with  fruits  and  flowers. 


268 


FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


The  tableau  was  broken  by  the  cavaliers  and  pages  passing  down 
from  the  stage  and  serving  each  guest  with  liqueurs  and  wines  in  tiny 
glasses,  and  delicious  sweets  prepared  in  the  household. 

'Y\i\?,  posada  sprang  from  the  fertile  brain  of  the  General  himself, 
and  all  the  actors  therein  were  members  of  the  household  and  invited 
guests.  He  proved  himself  an  adroit  "stage  manager,"  as  few 
of  the  participants  knew  the  extent  of  the  varied  and  humorous 
programme. 

Two  young  ladies  of  the  household,  dressed  as  nuns,  then  presented 
us  with  those  curious  and  grotesque  rag  dolls — the  invention  of  the 
natives — almost  as  large  as  real  babies. 

We  had  scarcely  recovered  from  the  effects  produced  on  our  risi- 
bles  by  the  dolls,  when  the  gcns-d'arines  entered  bearing  trays.  On 
one,  dainty  little  parcels  were  arranged,  tied  up  most  artistically  in 
bright-colored  silk  handkerchiefs.  The  other  contained  lovely  bou- 
quets and  boHtoiuiil-rcs,  and  cornucopias  of  what  we  supposed  to  be 
sugar  plums,  but  on  our  opening  them  proved  to  be  hair-pins !  The 
silken  bundles  enveloped  the  homely  peanut  and  tojocotcs,  the  most 
insipid  fruit  in  Mexico. 

Thus  did  our  genial  host  keep  us  constantly  amused  and  enter- 
tained with  his  rapid  and  ingenious  transitions  from  the  grand  and 
gorgeous  to  the  mirth-provoking  and  ridiculous. 

One  of  the  elegant  courtiers  who  figured  upon  the  stage,  came 
to  me  at  this  moment  stating  that  in  the  patio  there  was  another 
posada  of  a  still  more  interesting  nature,  and  he  vfanted  me  to  witness 
it.  We  there  found  assembled  a  crowd  of  e.xcited  children  with  the 
servants  of  the  household,  in  addition  to  those  who  came  with  the 
guests,  all  eagerly  enjoying  the  sport  of  breaking  the  pifiatc,  which 
was  in  the  form  and  about  the  size  of  a  five-year-old  girl.  This  figure 
was  clothed  in  a  white  dress  of  some  diaphanous  material  decked  with 
tinsel  ;  long  black  hair,  plaited  and  tied  with  ribbon,  hung  down  her 
back.  Suspended  by  wires  she  swung  in  mid-air,  calmly  unconscious 
of  the  severe  castigation  in  store  for  her.  I  was  politely  invited  to 
join  in  the  drubbing,  but  all  my  efforts  failed  to  demolish  her.     When 


FAS'J S  AND   FESTIVALS  AND    SOCJAL    FORMS.  269 

she  finally  became  dismembered,  I  was  presented  with  the  leijs  to  take 
off  as  souvenirs  of  the  occasion. 

On  our  return  to  the  theatre  we  heard  in  the  distance  a  peculiar 
music.  As  it  approached,  the  unusual  sounds  v\ere  accounted  for  by 
the  appearance  of  a  band  of  forlornly  dressed  Aztecs  with  their  ancient 
musical  instruments,  followed  by  a  train  of  attendants  of  the  same 
race.  In  the  rear  came  a  hand-wagon  laden  with  boxes  of  bonbons, 
fruits  and  sweets.  When  this  singular  band  entered  the  brilliantly 
illuminated  theater,  the  contrast  excited  boundless  merriment.  Our 
host  appeared  at  the  door  and  was  greeted  with  shouts,  when  he 
entered  and  made  a  humorous  little  speech.  The  Indians  continued 
their  ear-splitting  strains  in  stolid  impassivity,  apparently  quite  un- 
conscious of  the  grandeur  of  their  surroundings.  To  look  on  their 
emotionless  and  expressionless  faces  would  extract  a  smile  from  an 
Egyptian  mummy. 

At  this  juncture  General  Palacio  whispered  in  my  ear  that  very 
soon  he  intended  to  give  an  entertainment  nias  scrio  (of  a  more 
dignified  nature),  in  order  tliat  I  might  witness  in  his  own  house 
every  form  of  social  life  known  to  the  capital.  The  Vclada Litc- 
raria^  mentioned  in  the  chapter  on  Mexican  Literature,  will  give  some 
idea  of  the  elegance  of  this  convivial  reunion. 

The  scenes  were  interspersed  with  dancing,  and  now  the  witching 
strains  of  the  danza  again  rose  from  the  orchestra,  and  away  went  the 
gay  sefioritas  and  caballeros,  responsive  to  its  intoxicating  measures. 

This  ended,  again  the  curtain  rose  and  our  eyes  were  greeted  by 
the  representation  of  statuary  by  several  of  the  gentlemen  guests. 
Their  superb  physique,  clad  in  stockinet,  posed  in  the  most  graceful 
manner,  imitated  to  perfection  the  sculptured  forms  of  the  Dying 
Gladiator,  Brutus  and  the  Conspirators,  and  man\'  other  classic  and 
historical  groups. 

A  senorita  then  entered,  dressed  in  one  of  the  prettiest  cos- 
tumes of  the  country,  called  La  china  Poblana*     Nothing  could  have 

*  Described  in  chapter  on  '*  The  Common  People." 


270 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH   THE    MEXICANS. 


been    more    striking   and    brilliant    or   more    becoming   to    her    dark, 
rich     beauty.       A     briglit     crimson     skirt,   embroidered     with    white, 

reached  partly  to  the  waist,  where 
it  was  supplemented  by  an  upper  por- 
tion of  green.  The  bodice  was  simply 
a  white  chemise,  exquisitely  wrought, 
leaving  neck  and  arms  bare.  Around 
her  form  was  twined  in  graceful  fash- 
ion a  silken  rcbozo,  combining  in  its 
gay  stripes  the  national  colors  which 
marked  the  rest  of  her  costume.  Green 
slippers  were  on  her  dainty  feet,  and 
white  silk  stockings  showed  to  where 
the  petticoat  began  below  the  knee. 
She  was  a  harmony  in  red,  white,  and 
green — a  patriotic  symphony. 

She  held  one  end  of  a  long  pole, 
while  a  friend,  also  in  national  costume, 
held  the  other.  Dozens  of  pretty  little 
baskets  decked  off  with  gay  ribbons 
were  suspended  from  the  pole.  Each 
guest  was  given  one,  nobody  suspecting 
its  contents,  until  alive  chicken  made  its  presence  known  by  fluttering 
in  its  futile   efforts  to  escape. 

At  that  moment  General  Palacio  appeared  at  the  door,  when  the 
company  greeted  him  with  much  applause,  singing  out,  "  Long  live 
Riva,  Riva  Palacio  !  " 

The  next  scene  revealed  to  us  a  single  carved  column,  surmounted 
!))■  .1  richl)'  ornate  capital.  It  seemed  singular,  and  we  wondered 
what  it  meant  after  the  spletidid  scenes  we  had  just  witnessed.  Sud- 
denly, as  by  magic,  a  swarm  of  mocking-birds  emerged  through  the 
top  of  the  column,  each  decorated  with  ribbons  of  the  national  colors, 
and  fluttered  through  the  hall. 

Little   shrieks  <if   delight  went  up    from   the   ladies,  and  all   eagerly 


THE    PRETTY         CHINA     I'OBLANA. 


FASTS  AAD   FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL    FORMS.  2/1 

pursued  the  frightened  birds,  making  captures.  Order  being  restored, 
we  turned  our  eyes  again  to  the  stage  to  behold  the  mysterious  column 
slowly  opening,  revealing  to  our  astonished  vision  exquisite  articles 
of  vertu,  bric-k-brac,  curios,  and  magnificent  ornaments  of  every  de- 
scription, all  glittering  against  a  crimson  background.  These  were 
distributed  as  regalos  to  the  guests. 

The  entertainment  closed  with  a.  gra/idc  Jiiia/r.  Upon  the  stage 
were  assembled  in  one  heterogeneous  but  effective  tableau,  gentle- 
men of  the  coLirt,  nuns.  La  boiii/a  china  Pohlaiia,  pages,  flowers,  silver, 
grotto,  and,  in  the  background,  our  genial  host.  This  was  the  prelude 
to  a  recherchtf  collation  in  the  comcdor  grandc. 

Dancing  was  kept  up  until  sunrise,  but  those  of  us  who  reluctantly 
withdrew  were  gently  reminded  by  our  host  that  we  were  expected  to 
carry  home  our  chickens. 

On  that  glorious  Mexican,  moonlit  night,  with  all  our  bundles, 
regalos,  and  chickens  squawking  at  every  step,  we  must  have  looked 
like  the  remnant  of  a  Mardi  Gras  procession,  as  our  figures  were 
thrown  full  length  on  the  broad  street  in  exaggerated  silhouette. 

Posadas  on  so  grand  a  scale  are  given  in  comparatively  few  houses. 
But  the  litanies,  wax  figures  and  procession  are  generally  a  part  of  the 
programme,  varying  according  to  means  or  taste. 

Every  night  for  more  than  a  month,  and  for  a  month  longer,  at 
regular  intervals,  in  this  hospitable  mansion,  entertainments  of 
various  kinds  were  given — grand  balls,  dinners,  and  brilliant  the- 
atricals. My  invitations  were  as  numerous  as  the  entertainments, 
where,  whenever  possible,  1  found  myself,  ever  at  home,  an  honored 
guest. 

In  rural  districts,  where  posadas  arc  not  given,  one  of  the  chief 
Christmas  recreations  is  the  pastorcla.  This  signifies  an  idyl,  and  is 
used  symbolically  to  represent  the  announcements  of  the  birth  of 
Christ  to  the  shepherds.  A  little  girl  dressed  in  white,  with  wings 
attached  to  her  shoulders,  represents  the  angel,  while  the  shepherds 
are  furnished  with  crooks,  with  which  they  beat  time  to  their  chant- 
ing.     The  infant  Jesus,  represented   by  a  doll,  is  rocked  in  a  cradle  or 


2/2  FACE    JO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

swung  from  the  ceiling,  and  on  Christmas  eve  is  baptized,  the  god- 
father and  godmother  being  selected  from  the  company. 

This  pastoral  is  much  in  use  on  the  Rio  Grande  frontier,  where 
there  is  a  dearth  of  amusement,  and  generally  among  the  plainer  pop- 
ulation. When  practiced  by  the  wealthy,  it  is  enlarged  upon  until 
it  assumes  grand  proportions.  The  pastorcla  begins  sometimes  a 
week  or  more  before  Christmas. 

The  Feast  of  the  Epiphany,  known  in  Mexico  as  the  Fiesta  de 
los  Trcs  Reyes  (Feast  of  the  Three  Kings),  which  comes  on  the  6th 
of  January,  has  connected  with  it  an  interesting  social  event.  This  is 
known  as  the  Baild  de  los  Compadres.  It  is  not  so  commonly  observed 
now  as  formerly,  but  is  none  the  less  interesting. 

A  coffee  cake  is  made,  in  which  is  placed  a  bean,  and  at  the  dinner 
which  follows  mass  on  that  day  this  cake  is  placed  under  a  napkin 
and  then  cut  by  some  one  of  the  guests.  The  one  who  gets  the  bean 
is  known  as  king;  if  a  woman,  queen.  If  the  former,  he  drops  the 
bean  into  the  glass  of  the  lady  whom  he  selects  as  queen.  If  a  lady 
gets  the  bean,  the  same  process  is  gone  through,  with  the  difference  of 
sex  in  the  selection.  They  embrace  a  la  Mexicano,  becoming  at  once 
compadres.  The  king  makes  the  queen  a  present,  and  must  also  give 
a  ball  within  the  month  of  January. 

At  the  ball  the  names  of  all  the  ladies  are  put  into  a  hat  and  the 
gentlemen  draw.  The  lady  whose  name  the  gentleman  draws  be- 
comes his  compadre  for  the  evening,  and  much  merriment  follows. 

El  Candelario,  or  the  feast  of  Candlemas,  comes  on  the  2d  of  Feb- 
ruary. It  commemorates  the  purification  of  the  Virgin,  and  is  the 
occasion  on  which  the  candles  are  blessed  and  consecrated,  to  be 
used  the  ensuing  year,  in  extreme  illness,  death,  earthquakes,  and 
thunder-storms. 

Tlie  day  is  celebrated  at  Tacubaya  in  a  novel  way.  The  streets 
are  filled  with  gambling  booths,  where  all  kinds  of  games  of  hazard  are 
played  by  the  common  people  ;  not  only  by  the  men,  but  women  also 
of  every  age  yield   to  this  fascinating  pastime. 

On    the    5th    of    February    the    Church    celebrates    the    death    of 


FASTS  AND    FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL    FOA'MS.  273 

Mexico's  only  martyr,  San  Felipe  de  Jesus.  He  was  martyred  in 
China,  and  his  baptismal  urn  stands  in  a  wooden  frame  in  the  cathe- 
dral beside  the  tomb  of  the  Emperor  Iturbide. 

The  carnival  season  comes  with  its  throngs  of  gay,  promiscuous 
maskers,  but  without  a  representation  of  our  King  Comus.  Some  of 
these  are  said  to  represent  the  spies  sent  out  by  Herod  in  search  of 
Christ  ;    if  so,  they  seem  to  enjoy  themselves  amazingly. 

Lent  is  duly  observed,  especially  by  ladies,  who  perambulate  the 
streets  dressed  in  black,  on  their  way  to  and  from  church.  At  this 
time  the  Zocalo  has  two  of  its  sides  adorned  with  booths  and  rustic 
tents,  in  which  various  delicious  drinks  are  sold  by  captivating  Indian 
maidens.  In  accord  with  the  season  fewer  toys  are  sold  in  the  streets, 
but  as  the  people  pass  they  halt  to  partake  of  a  drink  of  agua  dc  ckia, 
aqua  de  pina  and  or  chat  a. 

On  Palm  Sunday  large  quantities  of  palm,  plaited  in  every  imagin- 
able form  and  tied  with  ribbons,  are  taken  to  the  church  and  blessed. 
They  are  then  placed  on  the  iron  rods  outside  the  windows  to  protect 
the  house  from  lightning  or  any  other  dread  calamity. 

During  Holy  Week,  bells,  organs  and  choirs  utter  not  a  sound,  the 
stores  are  closed,  and  the  world  has  a  holiday.  On  Holy  Thursday 
it  is  customary  for  both  ladies  and  gentlemen  to  turnout  in  their  new 
suits.  The  ladies  appear  in  handsome  toilets,  the  result  of  weeks  of 
labor  for  the  dressmakers,  while  the  gentlemen  display  a  correspond- 
ing industry  on  the  part  of  the  tailors. 

Good  Friday  sees  an  entire  change.  The  whole  republic  is  in 
mourning,  and  the  smiling  faces  of  yesterday  are  superseded  by  down- 
cast eyes  and  sober  mien,  as  the  vast  concourse  of  people  pass  silently 
on  their  way  to  church. 

In  the  afternoon  is  celebrated  the  feast  of  the  Tres  Caidas 
(Three  Falls),  which  commemorates  the  three  falls  Christ  suffered  on 
his  way  to  Calvary.  After  each  fall  the  priest  preaches  a  short  sermon. 
Then  follows  the  ceremony  of  the  Trcs  Moras  (Three  Hours),  when 
the  scenes  of  the  Crucifixion  are  represented  in  pantomime  and 
with    effigies.     On    the    evening  of  the   same   day   there   is  a  service 


2/4  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

called  pcsamc,  a  visit  of  condolence  to  the  Virs^an  on  the  death  of  her 
Son. 

The  last  day  of  Holy  Week,  Sabado  dc  Gloria,  or  Saturday  of  Glory, 
is  devoted  to  the  death  and  disgrace  of  Judas.  Efifigics  of  the  traitor 
are  hung  all  over  the  streets,  and,  being  filled  with  powder,  burst  as 
they  fall  to  the  ground.  This  catastrophe  is  celebrated  by  the  rat- 
tling of  myriads  of  titatracas,  wooden  rattles,  that  make  the  head  ring, 
mingled  with  the  shouts  of  the  populace. 

Numerous  and  grotesque  paper  efiRgies  hung  across  many  of  the 
most  prominent  streets,  and  the  Judases,  filled  with  bamboos  of 
powder,  were  tied  to  the  balconies,  roofs  of  buildings,  and  lamp-posts. 
Many  of  them  had  silver  coins  pasted  upon  them,  representing  the 
thirty  pieces  of  silver  for  which  Judas  sold  Christ.  When  the  Judases 
burst,  the  eager  crowd  gathered  up  the  coins  and  then  proceeded  to 
tear  into  shreds  the  effigies,  in  order  to  avenge  the  treachery  of 
Judas. 

On  the  i6th  of  April,  the  Ar\n\i3.\  Ficsla  de  las  Florcs  (F\ora\  Festival) 
is  inaugurated  on  the  Viga  Canal.  None  of  the  feasts  of  the  capital 
affords  more  pleasure  to  its  citizens.  The  pasco  is  deserted,  while  the 
boulevard  beside  the  Viga  is  enlivened  with  hundreds  of  elegant  equip- 
ages filled  with  the  dlitc  of  the  capital,  as  well  as  pedestrians  and 
horsemen,  who  repair  thither  to  witness  the  festival  of  the  Indians. 
The  canal  itself  is  literally  overspread  with  boats  large  and  small, 
some  with  a  covered  space  in  the  middle  and  a  deck  at  each  end,  all 
manned  by  swarthy  Indians.  Indian  women  and  girls  in  their  well-be- 
fitting costumes,  with  wreaths  of  poppies  on  their  heads,  and  garlands 
around  their  necks,  guitar  in  hand,  sing  in  every  imaginable  key  the 
madrigals  of  their  people,  dancing  as  they  go.  On  the  shore  the 
best  bands  play,  and  the  same  scene  of  animation  is  presented  for 
days. 

The  24th  of  June  is  the  Fiesta  dc  Sati  Jntiii  Baiitista  (St.  John  the 
Baptist),  the  patron  saint  of  all  bathers.  This  is  a  day  on  which  the 
Catholic  world  of  Mexico  bathes  and  puts  on  clean  clothes. 

Small     boys    dressed     up    as    miniature    soldiers,    with     imitation 


FASTS  A.VD    FESTIVALS   AAD    SOCIAL    FOA'A/S.  2/5 

swords  and  guns,  parade  the  streets,  making  an  animated  scene.  It  is 
a  holiday  that  any  mortal  who  cares  for  St.  John  may  enjoy  inexpen- 
sively. 

A  legend  received  by  the  common  people  has  it  that  ablutions 
made  in  honor  of  the  Herald  of  the  Saviour  "give  beauty  to  the 
maiden,  vigor  to  the  matron,  and  freshness  to  the  old  maid." 

Regardless  of  the  truth  of  this,  the  bathing  establishments  every- 
where are  liberally  patronized  on  this  day.  Such  pushing,  jostling, 
screaming,  and  lofty  tumbling  as  these  devotees  of  St.  John  do,  is 
enough  to  call  forth  tears  from  the  Mexican  Mars. 

The  public  is  entertained  with  as  much  freedom  as  though  it  were 
a  bull  fight,  and  it  shows  a  generous  appreciation  in  long  and  contin- 
ued applause.  In  one  tank  one  hundred  and  fifty  or  more  bathers 
may  be  seen  at  once,  throwing  themselves  head  first,  diving  and  swim- 
ming, or  standing  half  submerged,  or  perhaps  jumping  from  the 
spring-board. 

To  all  these  gyrations  add  the  screams  of  the  multitude,  the 
shrieks  of  the  bathers,  and  the  people  on  shore  selling  a  thousand 
and  one  articles  beneath  the  rays  of  a  scorching  sun,  to  complete  the 
scene.  Though  many  pursuits  and  avocations  are  carried  on,  the 
dominating  and  supreme  desire  of  the  crowd  is  to  get  wet. 

This  feast  of  water  costs  but  a  n-a/,  and  on  that  day  the  populace 
shows  its  appreciation  of  the  opportunity  for  so  insignificant  a  sum  to 
be  made  wet  from  crown  to  sole. 

Superb  masses,  probably  not  surpassed  anywhere  in  the  world,  are 
celebrated  for  the  dead.  A  very  grand  occasion  of  this  kind  was  when 
the  Spanish  Colony  honored  their  dead  king  at  the  Profesa  Church. 
This  was  the  most  imposing  church  service  that  I  witnessed. 
The  interior  attested  the  faultless  taste  of  the  decorator.  An  im- 
mense catafalque  stood  in  the  center  with  white  and  silver  drapings. 
The  bust  of  Alphonso  was  wreathed  in  immortelles,  the  whole  sur- 
rounded by  the  arms  of  Spain.  Columns  were  draped  with  black  and 
great  black  streamers  were  suspended  from  the  dome  and  gracefully 
festooned  from  the  altars.    Wax  candles  of  remarkable  size  and  length 


276  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

were  lighted  all  around  and  throughout  the  church,  while  clouds  of 
incense  floated  over  all.  Each  one  in  the  large  congregation  was  pro- 
vided with  a  candle  two  feet  in  length.  The  music,  both  orchestral 
and  choral,  was  grand.  Chairs  were  provided  for  all,  and  the  floor 
was  handsomely  carpeted.  The  best  of  society  was  represented,  and 
I  never  saw  a  more  elegant  assemblage,  all  in  deep  black.  President 
Diaz  with  his  cabinet  occupied  seats  near  General  Jackson  and  his 
friends,  so  there  was  a  commingling  of  nationalities  as  well  as  of  tears 
on  that  day. 

Funeral  cards  are  elaborate  both  in  style  and  diction.  The  follow- 
ing will  give  an  idea  of  the  forms  in  general  use  : 

"  Died  yesterday  at  half-past  twelve,  Senorita  Dolores  Garcia.  Her 
mother,  brothers,  and  relatives,  in  informing  you  of  this  sad  event,  beg 
that  you  will  lift  your  prayers  to  the  Eternal  for  the  repose  of  her 
soul,  and  be  kind  enough  to  attend  her  funeral,  which  will  take  place 
to-day  at  four  o'clock  at  the  Church  of  Santa  Vera  Cruz." 

The  sending  of  cards  or  letters  of  condolence  follows,  as  a  matter 
of  course,  and  where  families  have  an  extensive  circle  of  acquaint- 
ances, every  day  in  the  week  finds  them  writing  to  their  afflicted 
friends. 

Below  will  be  found  another  still  more  poetic  in  its  language,  which 
was  sent  me  upon  the  death  of  the  gentleman  named,  who  was  the 
father  of  Seflor  Alberto  Bianchi,  the  well-known  author  and  journalist: 


t 


A  la  sombra  del  arbol   santo  de  la  Cruz,  ayer  a  las  ocho  de  la  noclie,  volo  al  seno  de  su 
Criador  fl  alma  <\n\ 

SR.    ]).   ALBERTO    BIANCHI 

(  PADRE). 

.Sus  airibuladus  hijos  piden  para  el  oraciones  a  la  piedad  de  sus  hermanos  en  Jesuciisto. 

Mexico,  Setiembre  23  de  1S86, 


J^ASTS  A.VD    FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL    FORMS  277 

(Translation.) 

Under  the  shade  of  the  holy  tree  of  the  Cross,  yesterday  at  eight  o'clock  at  night,  ascended 
to  the  bosom  of  his  Creator,  the  soul  of 

SR.   U.   ALBERTO    BIANCHI 

(fathek). 
His  afflicted  children  ask  for  him  prayers  from  the  piety  of  his  brethren  in  Jesus  Christ. 

Mexico,  September  23,  1886. 

The  wearing  of  mourning  is  universal,  not  only  for  near  relatives, 
but  also  for  friends.  A  young  lady  dies,  her  companions  don  the 
somber  garb  for  thirty  days ;  if  the  father  or  mother  of  the  girl  should 
die,  it  is  worn  for  fifteen  days.  By  this  time  some  other  relative  or  friend 
may  die,  when  the  custom  is  again  in  force,  and  may  be  indefinitely 
prolonged.  During  all  this  time  they  seclude  themselves  from  society. 
On  visiting  a  house  of  mourning,  likewise,  custom  prescribes  a  black 
dress;  and  for  these  ever-recurring  occasions  mourning  costumes  are 
an  essential  part  of  every  lady's  wardrobe. 

Ladies  do  not  attend  funerals,  but  visits  of  ptsa7>ic  (regret)  are 
made  immediately  after  death,  and  for  nine  days  those  who  cannot 
call  send  letters  or  cards  of  condolence. 

The  national  feasts  are  those  of  the  i6th  of  September  and  the  5th 
of  May.  Differences  of  opinion  may  exist  upon  every  other  subject  ; 
but  on  those  days,  the  former  recalling  the  grito  (call)  of  Hidalgo  for 
Independence,  and  the  latter  the  victory  of  the  Mexicans  over  the 
French  at  Puebla,  all  hands  and  hearts  are  united  in  giving  them  a 
fitting  and  enthusiastic  welcome. 

Courtship  is  something  of  a  serious  matter  as  undertaken  under 
Mexican  auspices.  The  probation  may  extend  from  five  to  ten  years, 
or  may  even  exceed  that  of  Jacob,  and  at  the  end  of  this  period 
the  devoted  Romeo  has  perhaps  never  entered  the  house — possibly 
not  even  spoken  to  his  Juliet.  Patience  is  a  virtue  all  possess;  and 
as  time  is  of  no  consequence,  they  content  themselves  with  waiting 
for  something  in  the  future.  The  lover  walks  slowly  back  and  forth 
before  her  house  for  hours  at  a  time,  days  and  nights  alike.    Perhaps  it 

iS 


278 


FACE    TO  FACE    WITH   THE  MEXICANS. 


is  from  this  fact  that  he  assumes  the  unromantic  appellation  of  haciendo 
cl  oso  (playing  the  bear).  He  may  also  play  the  bear  on  horseback,  and 
his  "  ladye  faire  "  knows  by  intuition  when  he  will  pass,  and,  securely 

screcTied  from  pub- 
lic gaze  remains  be- 
hind the  curtain  on 
the  balcony  and 
merely  shows  her 
head  or  salutes  him 
with  her  finger-tips. 
She  goes  to  church 
or  on  the  plaza,  sure 
that  he  is  not  far 
away,  and  though 
they  do  not  speak,  a 
glance  or  smile  each 
day  is  worth  a  life- 
time. But  frequently 
tiny  billets  doux  find 
their  way  to  the 
angel  ups  t  airs  ,  by 
means  of  strings,  and 
the  family  is  none 
the  wiser. 

I  remember  to 
have  seen  one  young 
man  "playing  the 
bear"  until  mydeep- 
est  sympathies  were 
enlisted  in  his  behalf.  Day  by  day  he  repaired  to  the  same  spot,  on 
the  corner  of  the  street  opposite  my  window,  at  No.  6  la  Primera  de 
la  Providencia.  For  months  the  trying  business  had  gone  on,  until 
he  was  reduced  to  a  mere  skeleton,  and  his  hollow  eyes  had  that  ex- 
pectant expression   which   marks  the  victim  of  love  in   Mexico.     So 


LOVR-MAKING     FROM    THH      BALCONY. 


FASTS  AND   FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL    FORMS.  279 

interested  was  I  that  I  determined  to  know  something  of  the  fair 
creature  to  whom  the  luckless  swain  was  yielding  up  his  mental,  moral 
and  physical  strength. 

The  father  of  the  girl  was  so  much  opposed  to  the  match,  the 
young  man  being  only  a  medical  student,  he  forbade  his  going  nearer 
than  two  squares  of  the  house. 

Having  seen  the  effect  of  "  playing  the  bear  "  on  this  lover,  I  was 
curious  to  see  how  the  girl  sustained  the  ordeal.  Directed  by  his  fixed 
and  steady  gaze  upon  the  house,  I  found  her  standing  on  the  balcony 
with  only  her  head  visible.  Her  eyes  were  fixed  on  him,  and  now  and 
then  the  dainty  little  hand  made  motions  towards  him.  After  a  few 
months  thus  spent,  the  poor  fellow  disappeared  from  the  corner, 
which  was   perhaps  the  end   of  their  love-making. 

I  was  told  by  several  English-speaking  Mexicans  that  the  larger 
proportion  of  the  young  men  of  the  country  greatly  prefer  "  playing 
the  bear  "  from  the  sidewalk,  to  entering  the  homes  of  the  sefioritas, 
even  if  permitted  by  custom. 

I  witnessed  the  opposite  of  this  in  the  case  of  a  young  Mexican 
girl  who  had  been  reared  by  an  American  sister-in-law.  Lupe  was 
pretty  and  attractive,  and  naturally  at  an  early  age  was  the  recipient, 
from  the  young  men  who  had  come  within  sight  of  her,  of  numerous 

bearish    favors;  but    two   of  them,    Fernando  and   Julio    ; 

became  more  deeply  enamored  than  the  rest ;  but  the  sister  was  de- 
termined there  should  be  no  "  playing  the  bear,"  so  she  invited  the 
young  men  to  call  at  the  house.  I  have  seen  as  many  as  ten  or  twelve 
in  her  parlor  in  one  evening,  all  animated  and  interested — each  one 
being  only  too  pleased  to  take  his  turn  at  a  few  moments'  conversation 
with  the  sefiorita. 

But  a  denouement,  quite  unexpected,  came.  One  of  the  young  men 
who  had  become  desperately  enamored  of  the  girl,  found  he  had  a 
rival  in  one  of  his  friends.  A  dispute  arose,  some  of  the  boys  espous- 
ing one  side  and  the  remainder  the  other,  until  bloodshed  seemed  in- 
evitable. No  case  in  chancery  ever  required  more  skillful  diplomacy 
than  this,  calling  for  the  good  offices  of  at  least  half  a  dozen  outside 


28o  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

friends  to  adjust  the  matter  and  prevent  a  catastrophe.  The  rupture 
between  the  boys  was  never  healed,  but  neither  of  them  won  the 
senorita.  So,  after  all,  perhaps  it  is  better  that  they  should  have 
"bear  playing"  in  order  to  win  their  wives.  I  confess  that 
after  witnessing  these  love  affairs  I  was  for  once,  as  our  latter-day 
politicians  say,  "  on  the  fence,"  and  quite  as  ready  to  fall  on  the 
"  bear  side  "  as  on  that  of  our  less  conventional,  more  modern  love- 
making. 

A  Mexican  lady  related  to  me  a  method  of  courtship  somewhat 
different.  A  senorita  is  sometimes  made  aware  of  the  interest  a 
young  man  takes  in  her,  by  being  continually  followed  when  walking 
along  the  street.  In  the  course  of  time  he  writes  a  letter  which  he 
leaves  with  the  portcro,  and  it  is  always  necessary  to  enlist  the  interest 
of  these  men  by  the  bestowal  of  a  little  cash.  She  pays  no  attention 
to  his  first  letters,  but  after  a  while  she  may  perhaps  notice  his  ad- 
vances. He  goes  to  the  house  each  day  and  finds  out  her  movements 
from  the  portcro,  governing  himself  accordingly.  At  last,  accom- 
panied by  a  responsible  friend,  he  makes  bold  to  call  on  the  father 
and  asks  her  hand  in  marriage.  Then  the  father  asks  the  girl  if  she 
is  willing  to  marry  the  young  man.  She  replies  she  cannot  say  until 
she  has  met  him.  When  at  length  he  calls,  every  member  of  the 
family,  and  even  the  servants,  have  the  privilege  of  being  present. 
After  this,  he  is  the  iwvio  o^rw/ (accepted  lover),  but  even  if  the  mar- 
riage be  postponed  six  months  or  as  many  years,  he  is  never  left  alone 
for  a  moment  with  \\\^  fiancee. 

Once  admitted  as  7iovio  ofiical,  it  may  be  imagined  that  the  fervor 
of  his  devotion  will  find  vent  in  many  lover-like  expressions.  As  in- 
dicative of  their  warm,  poetic  imagination  and  passionate  Southern 
nature,  I  append  a  few  of  the  most  characteristic  of  these  phrases  as 
used  by  both  sexes : 

Nifia  de  mi  alma  !  Child  of  my  soul  ! 

I  Me  quieres  ?  Dost  Ihou  love  me  ? 

Te  adoro,  te  idolatro  I  I  adore  thee,  I  idolize  thee  ! 

Me  muero  per  ti  !  I  die  for  thee  ! 


FASTS  AND   FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL    FOKMS. 


281 


Eres  mi  dicha  ! 

Te  amo  mas  que  a  mi  vida ! 

Eres  mi  unico  pensamieiito  ! 

Me  mato  por  ti ! 

No  te  olvides  de  mi ! 

Siempre  serSs  mi  ! 

Tii  seras  mi  solo  amor  ! 

No  me  enganes  ! 

No  sabes  cuanto  te  amo  ! 

Oye,  hijito,  i  me  quieres  de  veras  ? 

Que  feliz  soy  a  tu  lado  ! 

No  dejes  de  escribirme  ! 

I  Vienes  manana  ? 

Ingrato,  Ya  lo  s<5  todo  ! 

Pero  liija,  eso  no  es  cierlo  ! 

I  No  me  crees  ? 

Perdoname  corazon  ! 

Adios  chula,  hasta  manana  ! 

Sueno  contitjo  ! 


Tliou  art  my  happiness  ! 

I  love  thee  more  than  my  life  ! 

Thou  art  my  oidy  thouyht  ! 

I  kill  myself  for  thee  ! 

Do  not  forget  me  ! 

Tliou  wilt  always  be  mine  ! 

Thou  wilt  be  my  only  love  ! 

Do  not  deceive  me  ! 
i  Thou  dost  not  know  how  much  I  love 
I      thee  ! 

Say,  my  boy,  dost  really  love  me  ! 

How  happy  I  am  by  thy  side  ! 

Don't  fail  to  write  me  ! 

Will  you  come  to-morrow  ? 

Ingrate,  I  know  all  ! 

But  daughter,  it  is  not  true  ! 

Dost  thou  not  believe  me  ? 

Pardon  me,  heart ! 

Good-bye,  precious,  until  to-morrow  ! 

I  dream  of  thee  ! 


The  seflorita  is  not  intentionally,  or  by  nature,  a  flirt.  She  would 
scorn  to  inveigle  in  her  meshes  the  affections  of  her  admirer.  But,  in 
addition  to  her  irresistible  eyes,  there  are  certain  little  social  and  toilet 
graces  which  she  unconsciously  employs  in  a  most  expressive  manner 
that  never  fail  to  bring  him  to  her  feet. 

The  most  effectual  and  indispensable  toilet  accessory  is  the  fan. 
Of  every  size,  s  ylc,  and  color,  it  is  often  an  expensive  item  in  a 
fashionable  lady's  outfit.  When  manipulated  by  the  fair  owner — 
opened  wide  and  waved  in  graceful  challenge,  raised  to  eyes  or  lips 
in  witching  coquetry,  or  even  when  peacefully  folded  in  jeweled 
fingers — its  language  is  varied  and  expressive. 

Great  care  and  attention  is  bestowed  upon  the  panuelo  (handker- 
chief), which  plays,  too,  an  important  part,  second  only  to  that  of  the 
fan. 

For  a  young  man  of  moderate  means,  matrimony  is  a  serious 
undertaking.      He   not  only  furnishes  the  house  and   home,   but   the 


252  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

bridal  outfit  as  well.  But  in  some  of  the  wealthier  families  parents 
furnish  the  greater  part  of  the  latter  themselves,  restricting  the  pur- 
chases of  the  groom  elect  to  perhaps  the  bridal  dresses,  the  jewels, 
and  other  accessories.  An  ivory-covered  prayer-book  is  an  indispens- 
able offering  from  the  groom.  The  bridal  tour  is  one  expense  from 
which  he  is  now  exempt,  but  as  facilities  for  travel  increase,  perhaps 
in  the  near  future,  this  item  may  be  added  to  his  already  long  list  of 
expenditures.  I  believe  the  event  of  matrimony  is  no  less  trouble- 
some than  the  long  and  tedious  courtship.  The  war  of  reform  made 
three  marriage  ceremonies  necessary.  Two  months  before,  the  young 
people  must  register  at  the  cathedral,  giving  date  of  birth,  in  what 
cit}'  or  country,  vocation,  etc.,  whether  widow  or  widower.  After 
this,  the  priest  registers  the  same  at  the  civil  ofifice,  and  their  inten- 
tions must  be  placed  on  a  bulletin  board  outside  the  office  for 
twenty  days.  For  five  Sundays  the  priest  publishes  the  bans.  After 
this,  accompanied  by  the  notary  public,  he  goes  to  the  house  of  the 
bride,  where  she  is  asked  if  she  acts  of  her  "  own  free  will  and  accord," 
and  other  necessary  questions  are  put  with  as  much  freedom  as 
though  the  subject  were  a  transfer  of  real  estate.  A  few  days  prior 
to  the  church  wedding,  the  judge  of  the  court,  accompanied  by  six 
witnesses,  the  priest  being  one,  performs  the  civil  marriage.  The 
dress  worn  on  this  occasion  is  presented  by  the  groom. 

I  witnessed  a  church  wedding  at  "  Santa  Brigida,"  and  the  Mexi- 
can ceremony  is  a  pretty  one.  The  groom  passed  many  coins 
through  the  hand  of  the  bride,  indicating  that  she  is  to  handle  and 
control  the  household  funds.  They  knelt  at  the  altar  with  lighted 
candles  in  their  hands,  emblematical  of  the  Christian  faith,  and  a 
silken  scarf  was  placed  around  their  shoulders,  after  which  a  silver 
cord  was  put  around  their  necks,  and  the  ceremony  was  complete. 

An  American  who  contracts  marriage  in  Mexico,  regardless  of 
faith  or  creed,  must  have  three  ceremonies — two  in  Spanisii,  and 
one  more  in  either  English  or  Spanish.  This  is  the  invariable 
rule  e\en  when  marrying  his  countrywoman.  He  must,  besides, 
make    public    notice    of    his    intention    by    having    it    announced    on 


FASTS  AND   FESTIVALS   AXD    SOCIAL    FOA'JIS.  283 

a  bulletin  board  for  twenty  days.  He  may  evade  or  escape  the  latter 
by  the  payment  of  a  sum  of  money — it  is  said  from  $60  to  $150;  but 
in  any  event,  he  must  have  resided  one  month  in  the  country.  The 
three  ceremonies  consist  of  a  contract  of  marriage — civil  marriage, 
the  only  one  recognized  by  law  since  1858 — and  the  church  service, 
which  is  not  compulsory  with  Americans,  and  may  be  celebrated  in 
their  own  homes.  The  first  two  must  take  place  before  a  judge,  and 
four  witnesses,  at  least,  including  the  American  Consul.  The  contract 
of  marriage  includes  a  statement  of  names,  ages,  lineage,  business, 
and  residence  of  the  parties.  The  ceremony  of  the  civil  marriage — 
the  legal  one — is  always  in  Spanish. 

The  length  of  time  required  for  the  completion  of  one  of  these 
marriage  arrangements  maybe  from  one  or  two  days  to  three  months, 
as  the  parties  understand  facilitating  such  matters.  But  once  such  a 
knot  is  tied,  it  would  be  a  difficult  task  to  have  it  loosened  by  even 
the  expert  fingers  of  a  Chicago  lawyer. 

Weddings  are  not  generally  widely  announced.  Intimate  friends 
are  invited  to  the  marriage  in  the  church,  and  afterward  participate 
in  the  festivities  that  follow  at  the  house.  After  the  wedded  pair  are 
established  in  their  own  home,  they  send  cards  which  read  : 

"  Tirso  C alder  on  y  Julia  Hope 
tienen  el  honor  de  participar  a  J'd.  sit  enlace,  y  se  ofrecen  a  siis  ordenas 
en  la  casa,  miinero  6  a  de  la  priinera  Providencia  "  ("  have  the  honor  to 
inform  you  of  their  marriage,  and  their  house  as  above  mentioned  is 
at  your  service  ").  In  other  words,  you  are  considered  a  friend  of  the 
newly-wedded  pair,  and  they  will  be  happy  to  see  you  in  their 
house. 

Cards  announcing  a  birth  are  thus  expressed: 

"  Tzrso  C alder  on  y  Seiiora 
tienen  el  gusto  de  participar  d  Vd.  el  nacimiento  de  su  liijo,  y  lo  ponon  a 
siis  ordenes"  which  means,  in   few  words,  that  this  gentleman  and  his 
wife  have  the  pleasure  of  announcing  the  birth  of  their  son,  and  place 
him  "  at  your  orders." 


284 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


Baptism  occurs  witliin  tea  or  fifteen  days  after  birth,  and,-  as  is 
customary  in  the  Catholic  Church,  children  bear  the  name  of  some 
saint.  Birthdays  are  not  noticed,  but  the  celebration  of  the  dia  de 
santo,  or  day  of  the  saint  for  whom  the  child  is  named,  is  the  most  im- 
portant event  in  his  life.    Cards  are  sent  announcing  the  baptism  thus: 


Nacio  el  6  de  Julia  de  1SS3 

y  fae  bautizado 

en  la  Parroquia  de  la  Santa  Veracruz 

el  18  del  niismo  mes  y  aiio 

sus  padres 

SeS'or  Tirso  Calderon 

Y 

SeJjora  Julia  Hope  dic  Cai.dekon. 


sua  PADRINOS 

Sr.-  Lie.  Eduakdo  Ramirez  y 
Adame 

Y 

Srita.  Guadalupe  Adame. 


having  a  seal  upon  it,  either  of  ten  cents  in  silver  or  a  one  dollar 
gold  piece. 

When  ten  or  fifteen  days  old  the  infant  is  taken  in  charge  by  the 
padrinos  (godfather  and  godmother),  and  after  much  elaborate  prepa- 
ration is  carried  to  the  church  and  baptized.  These  godparents  are 
called  coiiiadrc  and  compadrc  by  the  child's  parents,  in  preference  to 
their  legitimate  names. 

The  names  of  children  of  both  sexes  are  identical,  by  simply  chang- 
ing the  termination  of  a  or  o,  and  often  even  this  is  not  done.  Jose 
Maria  is  the  same  for  both,  but  Pomposa  is  the  feminine  for  Pom- 
poso. 

Within  a  reasonable  time  a  great  dinner  follows,  at  which  man)' 
handsome  gifts  are  displayed   for  the  young  innocent.      Cards  of  c<in- 


FASTS  AND   FESTIVALS  AA'D    SOCIAL    FOA'MS.  285 

gratulation  are  sent,  if  nothing  more,  but  more  frequently  it  is  some 
delicious  article  of  food  or  drink,  or  a  piece  of  jewelry. 

Social  usages  show  no  signs  of  change  or  relaxation,  even  with  the 
advancement  so  manifest  in  every  other  direction.  Many  of  them  may 
seem  formal  and  useless — based  on  the  tedious  Spanish  etiquette — 
but  they  are  not  without  charm  as  well  as  meaning;  and  in  comparison 
with  our  own  rather  free  and  informal  ways  one  might  wish  that  a 
happy  medium  might  be  found.  Many  of  the  customs  are  admirable; 
and  always  the  culture,  ease,  kindliness,  and  elegance  with  which  they 
are  observed  must  commend  themselves  to  our  brisk,  business-loving 
and  energetic  countrymen. 

Those  agreeable  features  of  American  and  English  home  life,  in- 
formal luncheons,  teas,  and  the  unceremonious  happening-in  of  a  few 
friends  to  a  "  feast  of  reason  and  a  flow  of  soul,"  or  perhaps  games  and 
music,  and  whatever  else  may  be,  are  wanting  among  the  Mexicans. 
The  Dierefida,  a  mid-afternoon  luncheon,  which  takes  place  after  the 
siesta,  consists  of  a  cup  of  chocolate  or  coffee  with  some  sort  of  fancy 
cake  or  bread.  It  is  the  only  small  social  feature  of  every-day  life,  and 
a  friend  may  drop  in  and  partake  of  it  without  ceremony.  But  th.ey 
are  happy  in  their  own  way,  and  a  departure  from  it  would  be  rather 
painful  than  otherwise.  The  love  for  pomp  and  ceremonious  display 
leads  them  to  discard  simple  and  unostentatious  entertainments, 
which  makes  a  narrow  limit  to  their  social  existence.  Hence,  if  the 
wealth)-  indulge  but  seldom,  those  of  less  means,  being  unable  to  cope 
with  them,  though  in  comfortable  circumstances,  abstain  from  any, 
except  on  occasions  of  domestic  festivals — christenings  or  weddings. 
But  there  are  many  smaller  hospitalities  wliich  always  prove  accept- 
able. One  is  scarcely  seated  before  being  asked  to  have  something, 
and  generally  delicious  chocolate  is  served  sin  cerenionia. 

A  high  estimate  is  placed  on  dress  and  external  appearance.  The 
taste  for  rich  and  gorgeous  clothing  belongs  to  them  by  heredity — 
Montezuma  himself  giving  an  example.  We  read  of  his  mantle  of  the 
plumage  of  rare  and  brilliant-hued  birds,  his  gold-embroidered  cloth- 
ing, that    "his  half  boots  were   set   with   jewels,  their  soles  being  of 


286  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

solid  gold;  "  and  that  he  always  allowed  four  days  to  elapse  between 
the  wearing  of  each  suit. 

In  these  latter  days  the  taste  displays  itself  in  every  way  to  be  im- 
agined, and  they  judge  others  from  their  own  stand-point.  Quickly 
is  the  dress  of  a  stranger  summed  up,  even  before  an  impression  has 
been  made  as  to  his  face,  being  able  to  give  a  minute  description  of  his 
clothes,  even  to  the  pocket-handkerchief  and  shoes,  two  articles  of 
dress  in  which  every  Mexican  takes  pride. 

To  enter  the  higher  strata  of  society,  one  must  give  external  proof 
of  his  fitness  by  his  dress.  After  this,  his  merits  are  duly  weighed. 
The  first  appearance  of  a  stranger,  both  in  dress  and  manner,  makes 
his  future  position.  I  have  often  been  amused  at  seeing  the  very  dig- 
nified and  quiet  manner  in  which  the  inspection  is  made,  the  distin- 
guished invited  guest  never  for  a  moment  supposing  himself  a  subject 
of  scrutiny.  But  however  incorrectly  lie  may  speak  the  language, 
under  no  circumstance  will  he  encounter  a  smile,  and  he  is  kindly 
assisted  in  mastering  its  many  difficulties. 

The  last  decade — the  period  of  railways — has  marked  a  new  era 
in  dress,  for  even  in  the  smaller  cities  and  towns  the  people  are  leaving 
off  to  some  extent  the  ancient  styles  of  their  progenitors  and  are 
donning  the  newer  modes.  The  old-fashioned  silks  that  stand  alone, 
the  laces  and  shawls,  worthy  heirlooms,  have  been  relegated  to  the 
silent  shades.  Even  the  black  lace  mantilla  is  no  longer  used  except 
for  church.  On  Sunday  mornings  in  the  alavicdas  of  all  cities,  hun- 
dreds may  be  seen,  but  the  graceful  devotees  have  already  attended 
morning  mass,  and  now  the  assembled  sight-seers  may  view  them  in 
the  national   mantilla. 

Later  in  the  day,  and  on  all  other  occasions,  Parisian  hats  are 
worn.  But  the  sefiorita  is  never  so  charming,  so  fascinating,  so  haloed 
by  mystical  romance,  as  when  her  glossy  tresses  are  crowned  with  the 
graceful  mantilla. 

No  people  on  the  continent  indulge  more  in  the  luxury  of  fine 
clothes  than  those  of  the  Mexican  capital.  Here  the  votaries  of 
wealth  and  fashion  receive  their  toilets   direct   from    Paris,    from   the 


FASTS  AND   FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL    FORMS. 


38- 


king  of  dressmakers,  M.  Worth  ;  while  the  men   are    full)-  up  to   the 
standard  of  either  Europeans  or  Americans. 

But  the  gentleman  of  ease  and  wealth,  supported  by  the  profits  of 
his  landed  property,  is  one 
thing  when  in  the  city,  clad  in 
European  dress,  and  quite 
another  on  his  hacienda  ar- 
rayed in  the  native  garb  he  so 
delights  in.  The  swarthy  com- 
plexion takes  on  a  different 
cast  enhanced  by  color.  The 
suit  of  cloth  or  buckskin, 
trimmed  with  a  profusion  of 
flashy  silver  ornaments,  a  red 
sash  about  the  waist  and  full, 
loose  tie  at  the  throat,  a  gayly 
bedecked  though  very  heavy 
sombrero,  all  go  to  make  up  a 
costume  eminently  becoming 
to  the  dark  beauty  of  the 
wearer. 

Mounted    upon     his    gor- 
geously   caparisoned    steed, 
whose  equipments  sometimes  cost  thousands  of  dollars,  he  presents  a 
striking  picture  of  a  "gay  cavalier." 

No  more  charming  feature  exists  in  Mexican  life  than  the  bril- 
liancy and  variety  of  color  in  the  costumes  of  the  Iiaccudado.  The 
effect  of  this  picturesque  attire  is  mcst  pleasing,  not  only  from 
its  intrinsic  beauty,  but  also  for  the  novelty  to  English  and 
American  eyes,  accustomed  only  to  dull,  conventional  garments 
worn  alike  by  all  our  classes.  May  the  liacendado  never  change  his 
colors  ! 

Sisters  have  a  fancy  for  dressing  exactly  alike,  so  that  not  a  button, 
hook,  or  article  of  jewelry  varies.     I  have  counted  in  one  morning  six 


HACHNDADOS, 


288  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    J  HE   MEXICANS. 

of  them  promenading  arm  and  arm  and  talking  in  a  low,  confidential 
manner. 

The  prevailing  style  of  dressing  the  hair  is  the  plaited  coil  low 
upon  the  neck  and  the  crimped  bang  across  the  forehead.  But  fash- 
ionable society  belles  have  long  since  adopted  the  more  modern  high 
coif.  The  men  universally  appreciate  the  value  of  exposing  the  entire 
brow,  consequently  their'  hair  is  invariably  arranged  a  la  pompadour. 

Mexican  gentlemen  manifest  their  appreciation  of  feminine  beauty 
by  gazing  intently  at  ladies  whether  in  the  Alameda  or  at  the  theater. 
This  custom,  which  would  be  generally  resented  as  impertinent  by  our 
fair  ones,  is  there  well  understood  and  accepted,  as  it  is  meant — a 
flattering  tribute  to  their  charms.  Between  acts  at  the  theater  or 
opera  the  men  rise  to  their  feet  and  with  leveled  glasses  pay  admiring 
homage  to  the  scnoritas  whose  dark-eyed  beauty  has  attracted  their 
attention.  The  pretty  language  of  the  fan  then  comes  into  admirable 
play,  and  the  maidens  nod  gently  to  each  other  in  appreciation  of  the 
gallantries  of  these  knights,  and  with  blissful  memories  to  carry  away, 
the  evening  ends  happily  for  all. 

It  has  been  said  that  the  gallantry  of  these  cahalleros  is  rather 
wearisome  and  tedious,  but  I  scarcely  imagine  that  any  lady  of  refine- 
ment could  feel  herself  otherwise  than  honored  at  being  the  recipient 
of  their  courtly  attentions.  They  are  punctilious  to  the  last  degree  in 
observing  the  most  insignificant  courtesies  of  daily  life.  If  ascending 
a  stairway  accompanied  by  a  lady,  she  always  takes  his  arm,  and  in 
descending  he  precedes  her  a  step  or  two,  holding  firmly  her  hand  so 
as  to  avoid  a  misstep.  This  attention  is  even  offered  to  strangers 
with  as  much  naturalness  and  with  far  more  regularity  and  prompti- 
tude than  our  own  countrymen  relinquish  to  us  a  seat  in  the  street- 
car. 

In  saluting  ladies,  gentlemen  still  observe  the  Spanish  form,  "A 
las  pies  de  listed  "  ("  at  your  feet  "),  the  response  to  which  is  "Beso  d  nsted 
la  inano  "  (  "  I  kiss  the  hand  to  you  ").  And  in  closing  a  letter  they 
always  add   "  B.  S.  A/." — ''  Beso  sus  manos"  ("I  kiss  your  hands  "). 

A  few  current  complimentary  phrases  in  society  are  :  "  Tan  henuosa 


/^ASIS  AXD   FAS//l'ALS  AXD    SOCIAL    FORMS.  2.S9 

coino  sicinprc"  ("As  charming  as  ever")  :  •'  Es  I'd.  *  inuy  siiiipcitica" 
("You  are  very  captivating");  "Soj  sii  i/ias  hujuildc  scrvidor"  ("1 
am  yoLir  most  humble  servant  "}  ;  "  Piicdo  tenor  cl  gusto  dc  hailar  con 
I  d.  csta  picza  ?  "  ("  May  I  have  the  pleasure  of  dancing  this  piece  with 
you  ?  ")  '1  o  this  last  remark  the  answer  generally  is,  "  Si,  scfior,  con 
niucho  gusto  "  ("  Yes,  with  much  pleasure  ").  Not  to  be  outdone,  the 
gentleman  replies,  "  II/  gusto  cs  para  mi — cuanto  honor,  scnorita  !  " 
("  The  pleasure  is  mine — what  honor,  Miss  "  ). 

On  retiring  from  a  visit,  as  long  as  in  sight,  the  salutation  with  the 
hand,  the  bow,  the  "A  /os  pics  dc  ustcd,  scfwrita"  are  continued,  until 
one  feels  as  if  transported  to  the  days  of  chivalry. 

All  Mexican  cities  have  their  social  organizations,  which  on  one 
evening  in  each  month  give  a  handsome  ball  that  is  attended  by  the 
elite  of  society.  With  all  their  tropical  embellishments,  growing 
plants,  and  sparkling  water  from  the  fountains  in  the  patio,  singing 
birds,  brilliant  flowers,  and  salons  of  grand  proportions  and  magnificent 
furnishings,  added  to  the  elegant  costumes  of  the  guests,  it  makes  a 
delightful  event  in  the  lives  of  the  people  and  an  enviable  one  for  the 
stranger. 

But  dancing  is  an  inherited  accomplishment  with  the  native  Mexi- 
can, the  younger  members  of  society  learning  from  those  more  experi- 
enced in  the  ways  of  the  world.  Grace  and  ease  of  movement  are  in- 
separable in  the  Mexican  make-up,  but  nevertheless  as  a  rule  they  do 
not  dance  as  gracefullj'  as  one  would  expect.  Teachers  of  Terpsi- 
chorean  art  have  not,  from  some  cause,  with  their  divine  talents,  pene- 
trated that  country.  But  unquestionably  they  will  follow  in  the 
wake  of  railways  and  other  attendant  comforts  and  perhaps  give  a 
strong  contest  for  precedence  over  the  time-honored  customs. 

The  danza  is  the  most  distinctively  national  of  all  the  dances,  and 
bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  the  Habancro,  as  known  in  Cuba.  Its 
slow  and  rather  pathetic  music,  played  by  native  musicians  on  na- 
tional instruments,  renders  this  dance  fascinating  to  both  natives  and 

*  Abbreviation  for  ustcd  (you). 


290  FACE    70  FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

strangers.  The  latter  find  some  difficulty  in  catching  the  time,  but  a 
httle  practice  soon  makes  them  perfect. 

Beyond  all  things  it  is  a  boon  to  the  Mexican  lover,  for  it  is  only 
when  treading  its  slow,  dreamy  measures  that  he  can  without  restraint 
convey  to  the  dark-eyed  darling  of  his  heart  the  thousand  tender 
utterances  that  glow  afresh  at  every  motion.  They  can  with  propriety 
dance  together  every  danza  on  the  evening's  programme  and  excite 
no  comment. 

The  danza,  though  resembling  in  some  respects  our  waltz-quadrille, 
differs  greatly  from  it  in  many  essential  features.  The  "  sets,"  if 
they  may  so  be  termed,  consist  of  but  two  couples.  The  first  figure  is 
a  "  ladies'  change;"  next,  the  lady  with  her  right  hand  on  the  gentle- 
man's left  shoulder  and  his  arm  around  her  waist,  the  couples  balance 
four  times  to  each  other;  then,  joining  hands,  the}'  again  balance,  go 
partly  round  a  circle,  then  back  again,  after  which  they  waltz  away. 
This  waltz  may  be  continued  ad  libitum,  the  waltzers  pausing  at  any 
moment  in  their  revolutions  to  go  through  the  same  graceful  maneu- 
vers with  any  other  couple  similarly  disposed.  They  generally  make 
a  point  of  not  dancing  twice  with  the  same  couple  during  one  danza. 

In  a  country  so  favored  by  climate,  the  stranger  is  early  impressed 
by  the  limited  amount  of  outdoor  amusements  in  which  the  women 
participate  ;  in  lawn  parties,  picnics,  or  riding  they  rarely  indulge.  The 
men  are  understood,  of  course,  to  ride  almost  unceasingly,  but 
sefloritas,  though  graceful  equestriennes,  seldom  do.  At  the  capi- 
tal riding  is  more  frequent  than  elsewhere,  and  some  of  the  most  be- 
witching beauties — whom  Hebe  herself  might  envy — I  saw  on  horse- 
back enjoying  the  lovely  environs  of  Mexico. 

I  recall  a  gay  party  of  twelve  sefioritas  near  Tacubaya,  ambling 
along  on  tlie  broad  avenues  lined  with  great  trees  which  stretched  out 
their  friendly  arms  to  ward  off  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun.  With 
navy  blue  and  plum-colored  habits,  big  white  straw  sombreros,  their 
horses  handsomely  equipped  after  the  fashion  of  the  country,  they 
made  a  striking  picture.  Two  brothers  and  three  inozos  attended 
them,  and  they  laughed  and  had  a  good  time. 


FAS7S  AND   FESTIVALS  AND    SOCIAL    I-ORMS.  29I 

Tlie  tamalada  is  an  outdoor  diversion  somewhat  corresponding  to 
our  picnics.  It  usually  occurs  in  the  afternoon,  in  some  quiet  wood 
or  beautiful  garden,  and  begins  with  dancing,  which  is  kept  up 
throughout  the  afternoon  and  evening.  The  refreshments  are  taviales, 
after  which  the  entertainment  is  named — atolc  dc  Icclic  and  clioiigas. 
The  latter  is  simply  sliced  bread  with  piloncilla  (syrup  made  from 
brown  sugar)  and  grated  cheese  thickly  spread  over  each  piece,  the 
whole  arranged  in  pyramid  form,  and  is  a  most  delicious  dish.  A  dia 
dc  catnpo  (day  in  the  country)  with  a  gay  tamalada  party,  is  a  most 
agreeable  recreation.     Pity  that  it  occurs  so  rarely! 

One  of  the  most  brilliant  national  and  social  events  at  the  capital 
in  which  I  had  the  pleasure  of  participating  was  the  annual  distribu- 
tion of  prizes,  on  the  night  of  January  30th,  to  the  cadets  of  the  Mili- 
tary Academy,  at  Chapultepec. 

The  National  Theater,  where  it  took  place,  was  gorgeously  deco- 
rated with  banners,  streamers,  and  military  emblems.  Flowers  were 
everywhere — wreathing  the  cannon  which  lined  the  entrance,  sur- 
rounding trophies  of  war,  combining  with  the  white  moss  of  Chapul- 
tepec and  dark  evergreens,  in  festoons  from  light  to  light — even  can- 
non-balls reposed  on  them  and  bayonets  were  converted  into  bouquet- 
holders. 

In  Xhe  patio  electric  lights,  in  the  form  of  stars,  shed  their  white 
radiance  over  the  scene  and  mingled  with  the  lights  from  a  thousand 
Chinese  lanterns  and  Venetian  lamps  which  swung  between  the  flag- 
draped  and  flower-wreathed  pillars. 

The  main  entrance  was  lined  with  soldiers  who,  with  the  cadets, 
presented  arms  when  President  Diaz,  accompanied  by  members  of  the 
Cabinet,  entered  and  passed  through  to  the  great  stage  reserved  for 
the  presidential  party  and  high  army  officers. 

The  interior  of  the  theater  presented  a  grand  spectacle  ;  every 
column  was  covered  with  national  colors  arranged  diagonally  ;  flags 
of  all  sizes  and  the  ensign  of  the  Republic  were  draped  artistically 
on  the  walls  and  hung  from  every  available  point.  Three  hundred 
gay  and  gallant  cadets  were  ranged  with  military  precision  on  either 


2g2  FACE    TO   FACE     WIFH    THE    MEXICANS. 

side  the  grand  aisle,  forming  a  guard  of  honor,  themselves  the  motive 
and  main  feature  of  the  occasion. 

Boxes  were  filled  with  people  prominent  in  fashionable  and  public 
life,  a  central  one  being  reserved  for  Madame  Diaz.  An  excellent 
orchestra  and  pupils  from  the  Institute  for  the  Blind  furnished  the 
music. 

The  prizes  were  handed  to  the  cadets  by  the  President. 

In  the  literary  exercises  poems  appropriate  to  the  occasion  were 
read  b)'  Juan  A.  Mateos  and  Anselmo  Alfaro,  but  the  most  noted  was 
the  ofificial  address  delivered  by  the  "  Poet  Laureate  "  of  the  Republic, 
Guillermo  Prieto. 

It  would  be  a  graceful  compliment  for  the  students  of  Chapultepec 
Military  Academy  to  be  invited  to  participate  in  our  competitive  inter- 
State  or  national  drills. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

FROM    MEXICO    TO    MORELIA    ALONG    THE    MEXICAN    NATIONAL. 


SKY  such  as 
only  a  Mexi- 
can sky  can  be, 
when  the  sun's 
rays  wove  gor- 
ge o  u  s  o  r  i  - 
flanimes  across 
the  snowy 
mountain 
an  atmosphere,  trans- 
lucent to  the  eyes  and  an 
elixir  to  the  lungs,  bearing 
on  its  health-giving  wings 
the  perfume  of  a  thousand 
flowers  ;  all  these  were  the  delightful  accompaniments  of  a  holiday 
jaunt  on  which  we  set  out  in  gay  spirits  one  brilliant  afternoon  in 
October. 

Our  party  consisted  of  Madame  de  C (whose  guest  I  was)  and 

her  bright  little  daughter,  Lotita,  and  servant.  The  objective  points 
of  our  excursion  were  Toluca  and  Morelia,  on  the  Fcrrocarril Nactonal, 
and  as  the  railway  had  then  been  opened  onh-  a  short  time  to  the 
latter  ]3lace,  it  was  an  event  of  no  small  magnitude,  our  visit  to  these 
famous  old  cities.  In  a  charming  letter  to  the  Tivo  Republics  Aladame 
19 


294  FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

de    C thus    expressed    our    sensations    on     taking    our    depar- 

ture  from  Mexico  :  "  After  we  leave  Colonia  station,  as  the  cars 
carry  us  rapidly  past  the  familiar  landmarks,  the  restfulness 
of  the  landscape  seems  reflected  in  ourselves.  But  for  the 
church  towers  and  the  roofs  and  the  fortified  walls  of  Chapulte- 
pec  rising  abruptly  from  the  plain,  the  historic  valley  of  Anahuac 
kwith  its  snowy  sentinels,  shining  lakes,  and  circle  of  blue  moun- 
tains, presents  the  same  air  of  tranquillity  that  invited  the  Toltecs, 
weary  from  their  long  wanderings,  to  establish  their  lares  and 
penates  here." 

The  Mexican  National  Railway,  or  Palmer-Sullivan,  has  its  west- 
ward extension  now  under  construction  from  the  capital  toward  the 
Pacific  Coast  at  Manzanillo.  The  Texas  frontier  at  Laredo  is  the 
starting  point  of  the  main  line,  but  so  far  it  has  only  reached  Saltillo 
on  its  way  to  the  capital. 

The  western  division  of  the  National  Railway  has  revealed  the 
natural  beauties  of  a  region  which  hitherto  have  been  as  a  sealed  book 
to  the  ordinary  tourist  and  traveler,  the  country  being  not  only  almost 
inaccessible,  but  also  bandit-infested.  The  difficulties  of  engineering 
were  also  of  a  kind  to  appall  even  daring  and  progressive  Ameri- 
cans. As  an  instance,  seventeen  bridges  were  constructed  across 
the  Rio  Hondo  in  the  space  of  a  few  miles,  and  a  very  insignifi- 
cant stream  it  is  in  appearance,  but  its  crooks  and  turns  are  quite 
amazing. 

The  intrepid  little  engine  winds  about  the  valley,  now  and  again 
apparently  thrusting  itself  against  the  foot-hills  and  mountains:  then 
over  dark  abysmal  ravines,  spider-webbed  bridges,  and  around  horse- 
shoe curves  where  both  ends  of  the  train  almost  meet ;  then  across 
gurgling  waterfalls  ;  tlirough  Indian  villages,  forests  of  pine,  and  along 
grassy  slopes,  continuing  in  its  serpentine  course  to  give  one  every 
phase  of  scenery  to  be  desired.  The  most  lovely  view  is  that  of 
the  capital  and  the  Lake  of  Tezcuco  smiling  and  shimmering  in  the 
distance. 

Our  attention  is  divided  between  Nature's  handiwork  as  shown   in 


FROM   MEXICO    TO    MORE  LI  A. 


295 


the  diversified  and  lovely  scenery  and  the  dwellings  and  mode  of   life 
of  the  inhabitants. 

Tile  humble  huts  of  the  Indians  have  an  indescribable  charm  im- 
parted to  them  by  their  quaintness  of  construction.  They  cannot 
exceed  six  feet  in  height,  and  with  their  roofs  of  straw,  maguey  leaves, 
or,  as  with  many,  planks  laid  on  loosely,  held  in  place  by  countless 
stones,  each  one  weighing  one  or  two  pounds,  reminded  me  of  a  peg- 


THE   INDIAN    VIILAGE   OF   SAN    FRANCISCITA. 


soled  shoe  before  it  is  worn.  They  begin  in  the  valleys  and  run  in 
irregular  lines  up  the  mountain  sides,  until  one  wonders  how  it  is  that 
some  mighty  landslide  or  upheaving  earthquake  does  not  sweep  these 
frail  structures  from  their  lodging  places. 

These  Indians  own  patches  of  land,  and  each  one  has  his  portion 
divided  from  his  neighbors  by  rows  of  maguey.  They  cultivate 
wheat,  corn,  oats,  and  barley;  and  the  different  shades  of  green  run- 
ning in  geometrical  lines,  transversely  and   obliquely,  reminded  me  of 


296  FACE    TO   FACE    \VJ  HI    7 1/E    .UE  AFC  J  AS. 

that  feminine  product,  tiie  crazy  quilt.  The  observer  wonders  in 
which  representative  of  the  two  civilizations  is  the  geometrical  in- 
stinct most  highly  developed — the  crude  Indian,  unaided  by  a  modern 
thought,  or  our"  ladye  faire,"  with  every  stimulus  from  her  neighbors' 
ingenuity  and  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  gay  materials  from  well- 
filled  storehouses  near  by. 

A  simple  placard  on  which  we  read  "Crina,"  informs  us  that  we 
have  reached  the  highest  point  on  the  road,  and  the  highest  station 
in  Mexico — at  10,000  feet  above  sea  level,  and  at  a  distance  of  forty 
miles  from  the  capital.  Here  respiration  becomes  difficult,  and  over- 
coats and  wraps  are  in  demand. 

After  this,  we  enter  the  beautiful  Valley  of  Toluca,  which  is  well 
covered  with  haciendas,  on  which  corn  and  beans  are  chiefly  culti- 
vated. For  the  first  time  we  see  the  bright  red-tiled  roofs  that  here 
cover  every  house,  large  and  small.  The  haciendas  have  numerous 
ranc/iitas  [little  houses),  in  size  about  five  by  seven  feet,  mounted  on 
poles  ten  feet  high.  They  are  entered  only  by  means  of  a  slender 
ladder.  In  these  strange  appurtenances  of  faim  life  a  watchman 
takes  his  station  at  night,  armed  with  his  rifle,  and  guards  a  certain 
number  of  acres  from  the  molestation  of  robheis.  The  road  passes 
near  the  famous  battle-field  of  Monte  de  las  Cruces,  where  was  fought 
one  of  the  most  sanguinary  battles  of  the  War  of  Independence.  A 
monument  now  marks  the  spot.  The  Valley  of  Toluca  is  larger  than 
that  of  Mexico,  and  is  more  generally  cultivated,  being  well  supplied 
with  water  for  irrigating  purposes. 

Toluca,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Mexico,  is  about  i  ,000  feet  lower 
than  the  high  point  before  described,  and  1,000  feet  higher  than  the 
City  of  Mexico.  The  climate  is  delightfully  cool  ;  in  fact,  for  most 
constitutions,  far  too  cool  to  be  comfortable.  The  high  altitude, 
together  with  the  coolness,  often  affects  with  nervous  prostration 
strangers,  especially  ladies,  requiring  days  to  overcome.  The 
city  has  a  population  of  about  25,000,  is  neatly  paved,  and  rejoices 
in  an  abundance  of  clear,  fresh  water,  flowing  at  all  times  through  the 
streets.       It    has   many  fine  old   convents,    now    used  as  hospitals   or 


FKOM    MEXICO    TO    MORtUA.  297 

schools.  Foremost  among  the  latter  is  the  "  Institute  Literario,"  one 
of  the  most  widely  known  of  all  the  institutions  of  learning  in  the 
republic,  and  it  has  the  honor  of  having  educated  many  of  the  most 
distinguished  men  of  the  country.  Each  municipality  has  the  privilege 
of  sending  one  student,  who  must  stand  a  rigid  competitive  examina- 
tion. The  institution  has  five  patios  and  covers  an  immense  space  of 
ground,  and  is  provided  with  a  fine  library,  museum  of  natural  history, 
every  appliance  for  the  stud}-  of  physiology,  physics,  history,  and 
chemistry,  besides  music  and  drawing.  The  students  have  a  gymna- 
sium, warm  and  cold  baths,  comfortable  dormitories,  and  for  all  these 
advantages  the  price  of  board  and  tuition  in  the  school  is  only  S16 
per  month.  The  number  of  students  at  the  time  of  our  visit  was  220. 
Many  of  them  gathered  around  us,  and  conducted  us  through  the 
gardens  and  buildings.  They  entertained  us  delightfully  with  recita- 
tions and  choice  music,  and  extended  many  other  courtesies.  A 
bright-eyed  little  Indian  boy  of  only  eleven  years  stepped  out  grace- 
fully before  us  in  the  garden  and  delivered  a  charming  address  of 
welcome  to  the  "two  senoritas,"  in  which  he  stated  that  both  the 
professors  and  students  of  the  "  Institute  Literario"  were  honored  by 
our  visit,  and  it  was  their  wish  that  we  should  return  at  some  future 
day.  They  all  accompanied  us  to  the  portal  of  the  college,  where 
the  usual  custom  of  shaking  hands,  intermingled  with  all  sorts  of 
good  wishes,  was  gone  through,  and  the  last  that  we  heard  was  a 
long  and  continuous  "  rtir/wj,"  amid  the  flutter  of  handkerchiefs  and 
waving  of  hands  from  the  gallant  young  students  of  "  El  Institute 
Literario." 

In  striking  contrast  to  the  Instituto  Literario  was  a  public  day- 
school  for  the  poorer  children  of  the  town.  At'  seven  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  we  saw  dozens  of  small  urchins  filing  into  a  building  oppo- 
site our  rooms.  Not  believing  it  possible  that  these  were  school  hours, 
we  went  over  to  see  for  ourselves,  and  there  sat  the  little  folks,  some 
on  low  chairs,  some  on  benches,  while  others  were  down  upon  the 
floor,  book  in  hand,  and  all  studying  together  and  aloud,  reminding 
one  of  the  chatter  of  magpies.  ^ 


298 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


These  tireless  little  seekers  after  knowledge  were  not  released  from 
their  arduous  duties  until  six  in  the  evening;  eleven  long  hours,  ex- 
cepting the  noon-day  recess,  sitting  there,  rcbozo-wx-a^-^-^zA  and  book- 
absorbed. 

It  was  an  exaggeration  of  our  "  old  field  "  system,  and  these  little 
Mexicans  enjoy  a  great  advantage  over  their  white  neighbors ;  pun- 
ishment of  any  kind  being  prohibited  by  law,  and  their  "  tender 
thoughts"   and   "young   ideas"   are   spared  the   painful   necessity  of 


.\L\ADii    DL     TliLULA. 


being  taught    to  "shoot"  by  the  aid  and    persuasive  eloquence   of  a 
hickory  switch. 

By  means  of  tram-cars,  we  made  a  charming  trip  to  the  Hacienda 
de  la  Hucrta  (plantation  of  the  Garden),  the  most  productive  in 
the  Valley  of  Toluca.  We  ascended  a  hundred  feet  to  the  mile  for 
nine  miles,  and  shivered  with  cold  as  we  went.  The  hacienda  is  at 
the  foot  of  the  Nevado  de  Toluca,  a  perpetually  snow-capped  moun- 
tain, which  aided  us  in  the  delusion  that  we  had  entered  the  arctic 
regions. 


FROM  MEXICO    TO    MOKELIA.  299 

The  liacienda  has  more  the  appearance  of  a  town  or  municipality 
than  anything  else,  having  a  store,  a.fo)ida,  a  very  fine  large  flouring- 
mill,  and  produces  great  quantities  of  wheat.  All  the  farm  work  is 
done  by  American  machinery,  and,  in  addition,  one  thousand  men  are 
employed  the  year  round,  who  earn  from  18  to  50  cents  a  day.  In 
reply  to  our  interrogation  as  to  how  they  could  exist  on  so  small  a 
sum  as  18  cents,  the  administrador  (manager)  said  that  "until  the 
peon  was  educated  to  where  he  felt  the  need  of  something  more  than 
tortillas  and  Chili  peppers  to  eat,  it  was  not  likely  his  ambition  would 
be  much  stimulated.  It  is  only  by  the  education  of  the  young  chil- 
dren that  any  such  thing  may  be  expected." 

We  were  greatly  interested  in  a  young  deaf-mute,  who  is  employed 
as  gardener  on  the  hacienda.  He  had  graduated  at  the  School  of  Deaf- 
Mutes  at  the  capital,  and  afterwards  took  a  course  in  horticulture  and 
agriculture  at  the  Agricultural  College  there.  He  wrote  on  the  slate 
in  three  languages,  Spanish,  French,  and  English,  and  seemed  de- 
lighted to  converse  with  us  in  the  latter  language.  The  borders  and 
walks  were  marvels  of  beauty,  but  the  former  were  rather  startling,  as 
they  represented  huge  snakes,  made  of  various  kinds  of  bottles,  and 
white  quartz  and  lava,  broken  in  tiny  bits,  with  their  great  mouths 
wide  open,  as  if  to  swallow  anything  that  came  in  sight.  Rustic 
fences  of  exquisite  shape  and  stj-le  have  been  planned  and  arranged 
by  this  gardener,  and  at  regular  intervals  on  the  rustic  fence  he  had 
placed  dainty  baskets  of  ferns,  brought  from  the  mountains.  He  has 
ten  men  and  two  carpenters  to  carry  out  any  of  his  designs.  He  was 
much  pleased  with  our  praises  of  his  skill  and  taste. 

We  were  the  recipients  of  many  social  kindnesses  from  prominent 
citizens,  to  whom  we  bore  letters  of  introduction.  Among  them 
Governor  Llalan,  the  Governor  of  the  State,  received  us  with  all  the 
grace  of  a  cavalier  in  the  grand  salon  of  the  palace.  Upon 
the  walls  of  this  elegantly  furnished  apartment  there  hung  the 
portraits  of  all  past  Governors,  while  supported  on  handsome 
easels  in  the  corners,  were  those  of  Hidalgo,  Juarez,  and  George 
Washington. 


300  FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

The  same  rule,  I  found,  existed  in  every  State  capitol  that  I  visited, 
but  not  in  every  case  was  there  a  portrait  of  Washington. 

A  nephew  of  General  Miramon,  Seflor  Enrique  Rodriguez  y  Mira- 
mon,  the  civil  engineer  of  the  State,  together  with  his  accomplished 
wife,  bestowed  upon  the  strangers  most  kindly  attentions. 

On  one  of  our  strolls  we  noticed  a  time-worn  sign  over  a  sadly 
defaced  portal,  which  read:  ''Bolctas  del  sol"  ("Tickets  to  the 
sun  ").  We  had  been  constantly  mystified  by  the  signs  on  both  stores 
and  streets,  but  this  one  eclipsed  them  all.  A  closer  investigation 
proved  it  to  be  the  ancient  bull-ring  of  the  town,  and  this  sign  indi- 
cated that  those  who  had  depleted  pocket-books  might  sit  on  the 
sunny  side  for  a  less  price  than  in  the  shade,  por  cl  sombre  (a  canvas 
awning)  making  the  only  difference. 

Living  in  Toluca  is  cheap,  and  as  a  summer  resort  for  those  who 
are  not  affected  by  the  altitude,  no  place  in  the  Republic  offers  greater 
inducements.  The  hotel  El  Leon  de  Ore  (The  Golden  Lion)  is 
neat  and  well  kept,  as  well  as  reasonable  in  charges.  There  is  an 
excellent  market,  pretty  little  Zocalo,and  an  admirable  band  of  music 
composed  of  boys,  from  eleven  to  fifteen,  belonging  to  the  public 
schools. 

In  this  country,  on  every  hand,  striking  contrasts  and  marked 
characteristics  present  themselves.  Everything  is  possessed  of  an  in- 
dividual interest — each  person  or  object  in  itself  striking — collectively 
furnishing  fine  groupings  for  pen  or  pencil. 

It  was  in  Toluca  that  I  heard  strains  of  natural,  human  music  that 
could  not  be  surpassed  by  Xh^.  A  User  ere.,  or  the  most  plaintive  measures 
of  the  Requiem,  and  saw  a  life-picture  that  Hogarth,  with  his  fine  ap- 
preciation of  the  natural,  would  have  loved  to  depict,  and  which  would 
rival  the  real  and  the  ideal  creations  of  Salvator  Rosa. 

I  was  slowly  walking  along  a  humble  street,  noting  the  striking 
objects  that  to  me  had  all  the  fascination  of  pictures  for  the  child.  I 
heard. loud  wails  as  of  a  woman  in  anguish,  and  in  the  plaintive  patois 
of  the  town,  the  words  "  Pobrccita  iiiia  !  Muerta  !  Miier/a  !  "  ("  My 
poor  little  baby  is  dead  !  dead  !  ")      Then   followed  low  cries  of  calm- 


FKOM   MEXICO    TO   MORE  LI  A.  301 

ing  grief,  as  though  it  were  ail  driven  baclc  on  the  lieart  ;  tlien  sobs, 
sighs,  silence.  Accompanying  the  mournful  song  of  human  agony, 
a  mother's  heart-breakings,  with  "  pobrccita  viia  !  "  the  perpetual 
refrain,  I  heard  a  solemn  voice  that  was  deep  and  mellow,  with  rich, 
persuasive  inflections,  half  barbaric,  but  full  of  music,  that  seemed  to 
charm  away  the  wild  grief  that  was  welling  up  from  her  soul.  The 
sobs  ceased,  the  sighs  were  hushed,  the  consoling  voice  was  silent. 
I  looked  in  through  the  open  portal  and  saw  a  touching  life-scene — 
a  tableau.  An  aged  atra,  clad  in  sweeping  black  gown,  his  long  white 
locks  streaming  over  his  shoulders,  stood  with  feeble,  trembling,  up- 
lifted hand,  his  voice  mute,  his  heart  in  prayer.  Slowly  his  hand 
descended  with  the  gentlest  touch  upon  the  bowed  head  of  a  poor, 
weeping   Indian    woman,  kneeling   at    his    feet,  holding   in    her   arms, 

hugged  to  her  bosom,  her  dead  baby. 

*******  * 

Leaving  Toluca  to  \isit  Morelia,  the  country  presents  the  same 
aspect  as  seen  elsewhere.  Here  and  there  rocky  plains  and  sterile 
spots  are  guarded  by  glistening  church  towers,  leaning  against  moun- 
tains covered  with  dark  pines.  Again,  green  fields  and  pastures,  un- 
told acres  of  alfalfa,  wheat,  and  other  cereals,  inform  us  of  a  climatic 
change  and  a  more  favored  condition  of  the  soil. 

To  the  end  of  our  journey  we  have  constant!)-  in  view  the  Nevado 
de  Toluca,  and  are  also  haunted  by  a  small  river  which  follows  us  un- 
interruptedl)-,  and  is  known  as  the  Rio  Lerma.  Near  Toluca  there  is 
a  lake  of  the  same  name.  The  Lerma  River,  while  at  first  appearing 
so  insignificant,  assumes  in  its  course  an  important  position,  in  the 
hydrography  of  a  scantily  watered  country.  It  increases  in  size 
and  volume  as  it  flows  through  the  States  of  Guanajuato,  Mexico, 
and  Michoacan  de  Ocampo — even  passing  through  Lake  Chalapa, 
and  at  last  finds  a  suitable  outlet  in  the  waters  of  the  great  Pacific. 
(3n  its  long  and  tortuous  course  it  changes  its  name  several  times — a 
custom   not  uncommon  with  Mexican  streams. 

At  Flor  de  Maria  there  is  a  solitary  station,  with  an  excellent 
eating-house,    connected    with    the   railway.     We  pass   near  the  rich 


FACE    TO   FACE    Willi    THE   MEXICANS. 


mining  region  of   El  Oro  and  others — also  the  Cafion  de  las  Zopolotcs 
(turkey-buzzard) — and   at  length  we    reach   Pomoca,  near  Tepeji   del 

Rio.  Here  we  have  a  re- 
minder of  the  heroic  death 
of  one  of  Mexico's  bravest 
sons — Melchor  Ocampo. 
A  house  in  ruins  and  a 
garden  in  dilapidation  are 
interesting  mementoes  of 
his  tragic  death. 

The  quaint  old  towns  of 
Maravatio  and  Acambaro, 
founded  in  the  sixteenth 
century,  also  come  forward 
with  their  stirring  revolu- 
tionary recitals.  Every- 
where we  are  reminded  of 
the  unparalleled  struggles 
of  the  Mexican  people  for 
liberty. 

The  town  of  Acambaro 
is  the  dividing  point  of  the 
National  Railway,  one  branch  extending  to  Celaya,  with  a  prospect  at 
some  future  day  of  reaching  Saltillo,  the  present  terminus  of  the 
eastern  division.  By  the  western  division  we  proceeded  to  Morelia, 
then  the  terminus.  The  traveler,  so  desiring,  may  make  a  pleasant 
tour  throu.;h  the  middle  States  by  the  National,  and  return  to  the 
capital  by  the  Central  road. 

In  closing  our  journey  of  twelve  hours  from  Toluca  to  Morelia,  we 
passed  beside  the  lovely  lake  of  Cuitzco,  just  as  the  lingering  rays  of 
a  semi-tropical  sun,  with  all  their  bright-tinted  hues,  were  thrown 
across  this  picturesque  lake.  Cuitzco  is  the  result  of  a  volcanic  con- 
vulsion, and  its  waters  are  salt.  The  wild  scenery  surrounding  it  is  in 
keeping  with  the  peculiar  little  mountains  in   the  background,  its  rich 


WATER-CARKIER    OF    GUANAJUATO. 


FROM   MEXICO    TO   MOKELIA.  303 

vegetation  interlaced  with  vines  and  flowers  of  tangled  growth,  in 
all  making  a  scene  in  the  short  Mexican  twilight  well  worth  remem- 
bering. 

Darkness  closed  us  in  from  further  observations,  and  at  half-past 
nine  we  found  ourselves  comfortably  settled  in  the  Hotel  de  Michoa- 
can.  The  cauiarista  was  both  voluble  and  agreeable,  with  a  hint  of 
ofificiousncss  thrown  in  for  good  measure.  At  seven  in  the  morning 
he  entered  our  rooms  without  knocking,  his  hair  standing  erect  upon 
his  pumpkin-shaped  head,  and  without  preface  or  embarrassment 
stated  it  was  not  the  custom  in  that  part  of  the  country  to  eat  an)- 
dfsayuno  (breakfast)  except  chocolate  or  coffee  and  bread.  He  evi- 
dently thought  we  looked  doubtful  as  to  the  truth  of  his  information, 
as  well  as  of  other  marvelous  things  he  told  us  concerning  the  hotel. 
To  emphasize  his  statements,  he  stepped  across  the  room  and  handed 
us  each  a  copy  of  the  regulations  of  the  hotel.  His  face  wore  a  mas- 
terly grin  and  his  hair  seemed  to  move  back  and  forth  "  like  quills  upon 
the  fretful  porcupine,"  as  he  pointed  cxultingly  to  the  literal  English 
translation.  He  proudly  directed  our  attention  to  Article  XVIII., 
which  read  thus  : 

"  In  coiiformily  with  an  order  from  the  police,  people  coming  to  take  lodgings 
into  this  hotel  are  obhgetl  to  let  know  tlieir  names,  trades,  and  countries,  as  well  as 
the  place  whence  they  do  come,  and  those  to  which  they  are  bound  to,  so  that  the 
whole  be  inscribed  in  a  book  which  is  kept  for  that  purpose  at  the  hotel  office." 

Article  VII.  informed  us  that  : 

"  In  the  amount  of  room  rent,  the  inward  room  service  and  the  candle  for 
enlightening  it  at  night  are  only  included  ;  whatever  other  service  the  lodger  may 
require  is  to  be  considered  an  extra  charge,  and,  of  course,  paid  for  separately." 

On  reading  this,  I  asked  him  if  he  did  not  also  furnish  inatches. 
He  turned  his  head,  disdainfully  surveying  us  from  the  height  of  his 
superior  knowledge,  as  he  replied  with  increasing  emphasis  and  long- 
drawn  intonation  :  ^' No  se flora,  en  cste  hotel  siempre  faltan  jahon  r  eeril- 
los"  ("  In  this  hotel  we  never  furnish  soap  or  matches  '"). 

Here  were  the  identical  words  of  Pomposo  at  the  San  Carlos  !    Tiie 


304  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

possibility  of  a  pre-arrangement  flashed  across  me,  of  course  to  be  in- 
stantly rejected.  The  printed  rules  were  before  us,  thirty  of  them, 
mostly  restrictive.  But  in  my  travels  I  found  every  hotel  well  pro- 
vided in  this  respect,  the  English  translations  being  always  waggish  in 
their  literalness. 

The  lover  of  ancient  art,  and  of  objects  that  have  a  history,  may 
find  in  Mexico  an  inexhaustible  fund  of  interest  in  visiting  the  nu- 
merous convents  that  exist  everywhere.  In  many  cases  they  have 
been  purchased  by  private  individuals  and  are  used  as  residences. 
The  government  owns  others,  and  has  established  in  them  colleges 
and  municipal  and  industrial  schools.  In  no  place  have  I  found 
these  establishments  more  interesting  than  at  Morelia.  One  of  the 
most  extensive  is  El  Carmen,  the  venerable  convent  of  the  Car- 
melites. We  visited  it  one  evening,  but  time  did  not  permit  us  to 
explore  its  spacious  interior,  and  we  decided  to  return  and  complete 
the  inspection. 

The  Carmelites,  on  leaving  the  country,  had  presented  this  con- 
vent, with  all  its  belongings,  to  a  private  citizen. 

We  visited  many  others,  and  always  with  an  increasing  desire  to 
investigate  further  these  remnants  of  the  past.  Among  them  were 
San  Juan  de  Dios,  La  Merced,  and  San  Diego.  Special  mention 
belongs  to  the  last  named.  The  convent  of  San  Diego  stands  at  the 
opening  of  the  San  Pedro  Park.  Attached  to  it  is  the  sanctuary  of 
Guadalupe,  erected  in  1708,  a  beautiful  specimen  of  Doric  architecture, 
adorned  witli  columns,  entablatures,  and  shields.  This  consecrated 
building  served  as  a  retreat  for  the  bishop  and  clergy.  The  convent 
was  founded  by  the  will  of  a  citizen  of  Valladolid,  wiio  in  1747  left 
$21,000  for  that  i^iurpose,  with  the  condition  that  the  sanctuary  be 
annexed  to  it.  Accordingly  the  building  was  erected  and  the  old 
sanctuary  enlarged.  Many  years  later  the  magnificent  altar  was  con- 
structed which  now  adorns  the  church.  The  tall  cypresses  which 
screen  the  entrance  were  planted  in  1807.  They  no  longer  shelter  the 
devotees  nor  the  monks  pacing  up  and  down  in  pious  meditation  ;  for 
the  convent  oj  San  Diego,  like  so  many  others,  has  been   secularized, 


FROM  MEXICO    TO   MOREL/A. 


305 


and  families  and  individuals  enjoy  the  rare  privilege  of  dwelling 
in  these  noble  tenements  with  their  frescoed  walls  and  deep  re- 
cesses. 

Our  curiosity  was  not  satisfied  with  regard  to  El  Carmen,  one  of 
the  oldest  and  most  dismantled  of  all  the  convents  in  Morelia,  having 
been  established  in  1593.  Intent  upon  gratifying  this  curiosity,  we 
bent  our  steps  thither  quite  early  one  morning  and  were  amply  repaid. 
In  many  places  the  walls  were  moss-grown  and  dilapidated,  while  here 
and  there  the  tangled  vines  and  grasses  and  broken  columns  gave  em- 
phasis to  the  signs  of  decay  that  marked  the  ruin.  Sitting  complacently 
upon  a  broken,  fallen  column,  we  beheld  an  object  that  filled  us  with 
horror — an  Indian  mciidigo,  a  representation  in  one,  of  the  ancient 
Aztec,  the  pobrc  Mexicano,  and  the  gentleman  of  the  nineteenth 
century. 

His  head  was  covered  by  a  mass  of  straggling  black  hair  that  fell 
like  the  mane  of  a  buffalo  over 
his  penetrating  black  eyes,  which 
were  turned  upon  us  with  a  fur- 
tive suspiciousness  by  no  means 
comfortable.  He  was  barefooted 
and  shirtless.  His  trousers  of 
white  cotton  were  of  rather  in- 
significant dimensions,  having 
only  a  full  width  to  each  leg. 
Surmounting  the  whole,  tipped 
slightly  to  one  side,  was  an  an- 
cient stove-pipe  hat.  Time  did 
not  admit  of  a  further  inspec- 
tion, and  taking  refuge  in  some 
rapid  evolutionary  movements,  we  rushed  through  the  big  open  doors, 
which  creaked  mournfully  on  their  hinges,  on  into  the  vault-like  hall, 
up  the  steep,  shaky  steps.  It  never  occurred  to  us  to  look  back,  so 
sure  were  we  that  this  remarkable  specimen  of  humanity  was  in  close 
pursuit.      At  the  top  of  the  stairway,  ere  we  had  recovered  our  breath. 


AN    ORIECT  OF   HORROR. 


3o6  j^ACE   TO  FACE    WITH  THE  MEXICAI^S. 

magically  a  door  opened  and  a  swarthy,  dark  face  peeped  out,  as  if 
to  say,  "  What  in  the  world  are  you  two  women  doing  here?"  We 
took  no  time  to  see  how  he  looked  ;  and  shaking  with  alarm,  yet 
convulsed  with  laughter,  we  turned  hastily  from  this  dark  hall  to  one  a 
little  less  obscure.  The  unusual  noise  and  scampering  of  feet  attracted 
the  attention  of  the  occupant  of  another  room,  and  before  we  could 
catch  our  breath,  another  door  opened  and  the  head  of  a  veritable 
Apollo  looked  out.  This  last  apparition  was  too  much,  and  the  floor, 
polished  by  the  feet  of  past  generations,  seemed  to  give  way  beneath 
our  own,  and  we  collapsed  on  its  slippery  surface.  Overcome  by  imagi- 
nary terrors,  we  calmly  awaited  our  fate.  Seeing  our  alarm  and  ghost- 
like paleness,  he  came  forth  with  the  manner  characteristic  of  an 
accomplished   Mexican   gentleman,  and   kindly  offered  to  serve  us  in 

any  way  possible.     Madame  de  C quickly  explained,  in   beautiful 

Spanish,  the  cause  of  our  fright  and  consequent  flight,  and  before  she 
had  finished  he,  too,  was  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  our  unexpected 
merriment. 

Ere  we  had  arisen  from  our  humble  position  on  the  floor,  we 
glanced  upward  at  the  walls,  lined  with  pictures,  where  our  attention 
was  riveted  upon  one  of  them  which  would  of  itself  have  put  us  to 
flight.  It  represented  some  penitents  at  confession,  while  the  devil, 
painted  red,  pranced  around  on  all  fours,  evidently  angered  because 
these  devotees  were  lost  to  him. 

Our  Apollo  informed  us  that  he  was  a  law  student  in  one  of  the 
colleges,  and  had  chosen  a  room  in  EI  Carmen  because  of  its  peculiar 
quietude.  He  accompanied  us  in  a  deliberate  inspection  of  the  time- 
stained  office.  It  is  doubtful,  however,  if  we  were  in  a  sufficiently 
equable  frame  of  mind  to  contemplate  serenely  the  beauties  of  the 
numerous  exquisite  paintings  which  adorned  the  walls.  The  grand  old 
organ  stood  mute  yet  eloquent  ;  its  language  uttered  in  the  past,  its 
tones  never  more  to  be  repeated. 

When  we  descended  to  the  ground,  the  cause  of  our  fears  sat  un- 
moved, not  having  changed  his  position  since  we  left  him,  save 
tipping  his  hat  a  little  more  to  one  side,  while  the  expression  on   his 


FROM  MEXICO    TO   MORELIA.  307 

face  was  as  guiltless  of  an}'  knowledge  of  our  approach  as  his  body 
was  of  a  shirt. 

Probably  the  largest  bachelor  establishment  on  the  American  con- 
tinent, perhaps  in   the   world,  is  that   of  Baron   Guillermo  Wodon  de 

S .     In  the  war  of  reform,  when  church  property  was  confiscated 

and  sold  to  the  highest  bidder,  this  gentleman  became  the  purchaser 
of  an  extensive  convent,  and  no  transformation  could  have  been  more 
complete  than  that  he  wrought  in  the  venerable  building.  The  walls 
which  had  echoed  only  the  sighs  and  prayers  of  pious  nuns  now  re- 
sounded with  the  voices  of  the  bachelor  occupant  and  his  bons- 
camaradcs.  That  the  Baron  makes  an  admirable  host,  we,  with  our 
friends,  can  testify,  having  been  delightfully  entertained  at  this 
metamorphosed  hall.  Our  entertainer  combined  the  grace  and  cour- 
tesy of  the  manner  of  his  native  country  with  that  of  the  land  of  his 
adoption. 

A  more  charming  climate,  both  summer  and  winter,  is  not  to  be 
found  in  the  republic  than  that  of  Michoacan,  which  is  sixty  English 
miles  from  the  capital.  It  is  so  temperate  that  one  experiences  no 
dizziness. 

The  State  is  rich  in  minerals — gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones.  It 
possesses  woods  of  endless  variety.  Among  them  we  saw  in  the 
museum  the  cork  tree,  pitch-pine,  red  and  white  cedar,  red,  white, 
and  black  walnut,  wild  olive,  mahogany,  poplar,  ash,  red  and  white 
oak,  willow,  laurel,  beech,  rosewood,  ebony,  and  many  others  impos- 
sible to  mention.  Everywhere  in  the  State  fine  fruits  abound,  and 
skirting  as  it  does  the  ticrra  caliciitc^  those  of  both  tropical  and  tem- 
perate climes  alike  flourish.  Here,  for  the  first  time,  I  saw  in  perfec- 
tion the  chirimolla  and  granadita. 

In  1839  Madame  Calderon  de  la  Barca  made  the  journey  from  the 
capital  to  Morelia  on  horseback,  and  regretted  that  so  much  beauty 
was  wasted.  She  says  :  "We  are  startled  by  the  conviction  that  this 
enchanting  variety  of  hill  and  plain,  wood  and  water,  is  for  the  most 
part  unseen  by  human  eye  and  untrod  by  human  footstep."  These 
beauties  are  now  no  longer  concealed.     The  railway  has  penetrated 


3o8  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

the  country  in  more  than  one  direction,  and  has  rendered  accessible  its 
most  romantic  scenery,  while  opening  up  its  varied  and  valuable  pro- 
ductions. 

The  district  of  Uruapan  has  become  famous  for  its  exquisite 
lacquered  ware  bearing  the  same  name,  and  which  has  received  gold 
prizes  at  the  Philadelphia,  Vienna,  and  Paris  Expositions.  The  finest 
specimens  of  the  work  yet  exhibited,  strange  to  relate,  have  been  ex- 
ecuted by  two  or  three  families.  As  explained  to  me  by  one  of  the 
workers  in  the  market  of  Morelia,  simple  old-fashioned  gourds,  gener- 
ally cut  into  plaques,  are  used  as  the  basis  of  operations.  They  first 
apply  some  neutral  tint  as  the  groundwork,  after  which  the  artist, 
with  an  ordinary  pocket-knife,  makes  the  design  in  either  fruit  or 
flowers — perhaps  after  the  order  of  an  engraver  on  wood — and  then, 
little  b)'  little,  the  colors  are  deftly  put  into  these  indentures  by  the 
fingers,  time  being  allowed  for  each  to  become  entirely  dry  before 
adding  another.  These  paints  are  prepared  by  the  Indians  them- 
selves from  the  native  dye-woods,  and  as  a  variety  of  colors  is  used 
in  the  process,  much  time  is  expended  in  making  this  wonderful  ware. 
Not  the  least  important  in  the  various  processes  employed,  is  that  of 
rubbing,  when  thoroughly  dry,  the  entire  picture  with  a  curious  admix- 
ture of  oily  substances,  of  which  the  ordinary  caterpillar  is  the  princi- 
pal. But  there  is  good  sense,  and  reason  as  well,  in  resorting  to  so 
obno.xious  a  thing  as  a  caterpillar,  for  it  completes  an  object  that  is 
not  only  one  of  great  utility,  resisting  alike  grease  and  water,  but  also 
gives  a  ware  that  is  to  the  last,  even  when  worn  into  shreds,  an  article 
of  fadeless  beauty. 

In  the  State  of  Michoacan  there  is  the  most  picturesque  lake  in 
the  republic.  Since  my  visit  there  the  railway  has  reached  its  shores, 
rudely  awakening  it  from  the  slumber  of  ages.  Humboldt  visited 
Patzcuaro,  and  speaks  of  the  lake  as  rivaling  the  world-famed  Lake  of 
Geneva.  Even  in  this  land  of  grand  and  romantic  scenery  it  stands 
alone  in  its  exceeding  loveliness.  A  pleasure  boat  has  been  recently 
launched  upon  its  limpid  waters  for  the  recreatitsn  of  health-seekers 
and  tourists.     The  town  of  Patzcuaro  supplies  good  accommodations 


FROM  MEXICO    TO    MO  Ji  ELI  A. 


309 


in  its  comfortable  hostelries,  and  its  inhabitants  are  fully  alive  to  the 
advantages  of  being  in  communication  with  the  rest  of  the  world. 

The  early  Spanish  fathers  appreciated  the  natural  beauties  of 
this  region,  and  founded  here  a  bishopric  and  the  College  of  San 
Nicolas,  which,  however,  were  both  subsequently  removed  to  Val- 
ladolid,  the  college  being  united  with  that  of  San  Miguel  in  1580,  at 
the  same  time  transferring  its  name  to  the  latter  institution. 

The  tourist  visiting  any  of  the  larger  cities  of  Mexico  is  much  sur- 
prised to  find  schools  and  colleges  with  modern  equipments  such  as 
would  reflect  credit  upon  any  country. 

At  Morelia  the  most  notable  of  the  colleges  are  the  "  Colegio  de  San 
Nicolas" — of  which  Hi- 
dalgo was  regent — and 
"  El  Seminario."  Each 
of  these  has  about  five 
hundred  pupils.  The 
Church,  or  Conserva- 
tive par ty,  patronize 
and  control  "  El  Sem- 
inario," while  the  Lib- 
erals maintain  the  for- 
mer. A  bitter  feud 
has  been  naturally 
aroused  between  the 
students  of  the  two 
schools,  and  not  so  very 
long  ago  they  would 
draw  themselves  up  in 
battle  array,  and  pro- 
ceed to  pelt  each  other 
with  stones  until  all 
were    satisfied.       San 

,  /-  '^O'  LEGE    OF   SAN    NICOLAS. 

Nicolas   was    the   first 

institution  of  learning  established  on  the  American  continent,  having 


3IO  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

been  founded  about  the  year  1540.     Two  or  three  years  later,  in  1543, 
it  was  placed  under  the  protection  of  the  Emperor  Carlos  V. 

A  magnificent  library  that  is  open  to  the  public  is  connected  with 
this  institution.  The  population  of  the  city  is  about  forty  thousand, 
and  its  public  benefactions  are  numerous  and  excellent.  Among 
them  I  noted  a  hospital  for  men,  and  a  separate  one  for  women  ;  Civil 
Hospital,  Hospital  del  Corazon  de  Jesus,  and  Monte  de  Piedad,  and 
many  others.  Not  only  are  these  institutions  cleanly  and  well  kept, 
but  they  are  also  spacious  and  airy.  Since  the  reform  war,  and  the 
separation  of  Church  and  State,  many  of  the  convents  have  been  con- 
verted into  hospitals.  The  afflicted  inmates  have  a  permanent  and 
agreeable  source  of  diversion  in  gazing  upon  the  highly  embellished 
walls  of  these  stately  institutions. 

There  are  separate  prisons  for  men  and  women,  and  also  a  general 
penitentiary.  Cotton  factories  and  other  industrial  establishments, 
including  the  manufacture  of  exquisite  pottery,  place  Morelia  in  the 
van  of  progressiveness.  The  temples  of  worship  are  magnificent,  and 
the  public  edifices  of  great  elegance,  while  well-kept /'rtw/Z/ft^wi' (ceme- 
teries), paseos  and  alamcdas  add  to  the  long  list  of  its  attractions. 
A  favorite  place  of  recreation  is  the  beautiful  avenue  known  as  the 
Calzada  de  Guadalupe.  It  was  originally  constructed  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  faithful  who  visited  the  Sanctuary  of  Guadalupe, 
where  it  terrninated. 

The  Morelianos  are  exceedingly  conservative,  and  neither  Ameri- 
cans nor  other  foreigners  have  obtained  any  extensive  foothold ; 
nevertheless,  there  is  a  growing  undercurrent  of  liberalism,  which  in 
many  ways  manifests  itself.  They  have  a  city  of  many  natural  advan- 
tages, but  while  it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  interesting  in  the 
republic,  it  will  be  many  years  before  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  will 
reside  there  in  great  numbers. 

We  are  everywhere  forcibly  reminded  of  Spanish  domination  fn 
the  architecture,  which,  like  the  language,  has  changed  but  little. 
Cities  may  differ  in  building  materials,  but  the  ancient  Spanish  is  uni- 
versally copied.     However,  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  the  Anglo- 


FROM  MEXICO    TO   MO  RE  LI  A. 


311 


Saxon  can  make  no  improvement  on  the  style  of  architecture  in  its 
suitability  to  the  climate  and  the  exclusive  lives  of  the  people.  But 
there  is  often  seen  a  free  admixture  of  every  known  order  of  architect- 
ure, for  in  a  newly  finished  building  we  saw  the  Doric,  Corinthian, 
Pompeian,  Romanesque,  and  Spanish.  The  interior  decorations  were 
exclusively  in  the  gorgeous  Pompeian. 

To  the  stranger  the  most   attractive  points  in   the  prevailing  archi- 


MONUMENT  TO    MORELOS —     CALLE   REAL. 


tecture  are  ihe  portalcs,  those  inviting   retreats   along   the  sidewalks, 
and  the  aqueducts,   which   may   be   seen   for  miles,  with   their  high, 
massive  arches,  through  which  one  catches  glimpses  of  blue  sky,  lofty" 
mountain  peaks,  and  peaceful  valleys,  animated  with  charming  pas- 
toral scenes. 

The  city  has  stately  proportions  and  attractions  that  are  peculiar 


312  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

to  itself.  We  never  tired  of  exploring  the  historic  places  which  have 
from  its  founding  been  objects  of  unfailing  interest  to  all  visitors  and 
travelers.  Calle  Real  was  an  especial  source  of  pleasure  as  we 
viewed  it  from  the  Plaza  of  the  Martyrs,  upon  the  corner  of  which 
stands  the  monument  erected  to  Morelos.  Watching  the  itinerant 
venders  from  our  shady  retreat,  and  the  idlers  who  added  their  statu- 
ette-like figures  to  the  monument,  the  whole  resting  tranquilly 
under  the  motionless  trees  above  them,  we  could  but  feel  that  the 
hapless  poor  have  an  aptitude  for  posing,  and  in  lending  themselves 
to  this  occasion  the  scene  was  at  once  thoroughly  harmonious  and 
national. 

One  gets  strong  ideas  of  imperialism  in  the  decorations  and  fur- 
nishings of  the  municipal  buildings  and  halls  of  congress.  A  city  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants  has  the  mayor's  ofifice  fitted  up 
as  if  that  functionary  were  a  representative  of  royalty.  The  legisla- 
tive halls  have  an  appearance  of  regal  magnificence  with  their  im- 
mense, lofty  apartments,  gayly  frescoed  and  lined  with  portraits  of 
the  governors  of  the  State;  mirrors,  chandeliers,  and  carpets  of  richest 
texture  ;  and  the  dais  with  its  canopied  chair  for  the  executive.  For 
me,  all  this  splendor,  while  it  suggested  the  influence  of  the  viceroys, 
found  a  suitable  solution  in  the  national  love  of  bright  colors  and  dis- 
play. 

Two  lines  of  chairs  facing  each  other  extend  from  the  dais  to  the 
further  extremity  of  the  hall,  where  another  ofificial  occupied  his  ele- 
vated seat,  but  without  the  canopy. 

The  legislature  was  then  in  session,  and  having  letters  to  Governor 
Jimenez,  then  newly  installed,  we  were  courteously  invited  by  him 
to  visit  the  palace.  We  gladly  accepted  and  had  the  additional 
pleasure  of  seeing  that  august  body  in  session  in  this  the  Virginia 
of  Mexico.  If  Morelia  has  gained  that  name,  it  is  not  alone  because 
of  her  many  distinguished  sons,  who  have  long  since  passed  from 
these  living  scenes,  but,  without  intending  or  wishing  to  detract  from 
the  men  of  any  other  part  of  the  Republic,  the  members  of  the  legis- 
lature of    Michoacan    were   the  most   commanding    in  appearance  of 


FROM  MEXICO    TO   MO  A' ELI  A. 


any  assemblage  that  I  saw  in  the  country.  The  dark,  Indian  type 
prevailed,  with  large,  well-shaped  heads,  eyes  of  unusual  brilliancy, 
broad,  square  shoulders,  erect  figure,  and  graceful  bearing. 

In  one  of  her  admirable  descriptive  letters  Mme.  de  C.  thus  men- 
tions the  hospitality  of  the  citizens  of  Morelia :  "The  tropical  banana 
and  many  creeping  vines  with  gorgeous  blossoms,  among  them  the 
Bouganivilla,  hanging  in  great  clusters  of  pink,  crimson,  and  purple, 
such  as  we  do  not  see  elsewhere,  beautify  the  patios  of  the  hospi- 
table Morelianos,  who,  when  the  stranger  stops  to  admire  the  luxuri- 
ant growth  and  wonderful  coloring  of  the  flowers,  cordially  invite 
him  to  enter  and  examine  at  leisure."  Of  the  hospitality  of  the  More- 
lianos to  us,  she  says  :  "  I  wish  there  were  time  and  space  to  tell  of 
their  kindly  reception  of  two  foreigners  ;  of  the  simple  yet  elegant 
manner  in  which  the  family  of  the  intelligent  young  editor  of  the 
Gazcta  Oficial  (Official  State  Paper),  Senor  Ojeda,  entertained  them  at 
an  afternoon  tea,  and  of  the  gracious  goodness  of  which  the  honored 
visitors  were  the  grateful  recipients  from  other  kind  acquaintances,  to 
whom  letters  of  introduction  were  presented." 

My  personal  tribute  is,  that  in  all  my  travels  in  Mexico  no  place 
has  left  upon  my  mind  more  pleasing  or  lasting  impressions.  Though 
so  conservative,  the  hospitality  of  its  people  is  pure  and  genuine. 

Our  own  distin- 
guished countrywo- 
man,  Mrs.  Mary  Hal- 
leck  Foote,  like  Mad- 
ame Caideron,  made 
the  j  o  u  r  n  ey  from 
Morelia  to  the  capital 
on  horseback.  Her 
admirable  i  II  u  s  t  r  a- 
tions  of  the  scenes 
in  and  about  that 
quaint  old  city,  to- 
gether    w  i  t  li      her 


FIRST    PATIO    IN    COLLEGE    OF   SAN    NICOLAS. 


314  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICAXS. 

charming  descriptions  of  the  people,  appeared  in  the  Century 
Ifaxtrsi/ii-  for  18S1-82.  She  says:  "I  had  fallen  into  that  helpless 
attitude  toward  the  outer  world  which  is  like  a  spell  over  the 
women  of  the  country.  The  return  of  the  engineers  and  the  dis- 
cussion of  plans  for  our  homeward  journey  on  horseback  broke  up 
the  dream — one  last  drive  on  the  paseo  in  the  splendor  of  the 
low  sunset  light,  then  a  bustle  of  packing,  and  talk  of  saddles  and 
horses,  servants  for  the  road,  and  of  steamer  days  and  telegrams, 
last  calls  and  a  sense  of  multiplied  obligations,  which  fate  might 
never  permit  us  fitly  to  recognize.  When  the  railroad  is  completed, 
and   the    tides    of    travel    ebb    to    and    fro,    if    our    friends   of    Casa 

G are  among  those  northward  bound,  may  they  find  as  gracious 

and  courteous  a  welcome  as  they  gave  the  strangers  within  their  gates." 

The  closing  wish  finds  a  hearty  echo  in  the  breasts  of  two  other 
American  women  who  gratefully  add  their  heartfelt  testimon\'  to 
the  kindness  and  hospitality  of  the  dwellers  in  that  historic  city.    Just 

four  years  after  Mrs.  Foote's  visit,  Madame  de  C and  myself  bade 

our  entertainers  there  a  warm,  and  sad  adios. 

Our  two  weeks'  vacation  had  drawn  to  a  close.  At  the  hour  when 
the  mellow  chimes  of  the  grand  cathedral  were  calling  to  matins,  whea 
the  sound  of  bells  far  away  in  Indian  villages  fell  softly  on  the  newly 
awakened  senses,  the  military  responding  with  drum  and  bugle-call, 
we  bade  adieu  to  this  delightful  mediaeval  city  and  its  interesting  in- 
habitants, and  returned  with  mental  and  physical  energies  renewed  to 
our  complex  nineteenth  century  life  and   its  manifold  duties. 


CHAPTER   X. 

ACTORS  AND   EVENTS   IN    MEXICAN   HISTORY. 


y\\*Vi^EXICO  maintained  her  struggle  for  in- 
dependence through  eleven  years.  At 
the  outset,  no  people  could  have  been 
less  prepared  for  such  a  contest.  Their 
weapons  of  warfare  were  primitive  and 
few  in  number.  They  possessed  no 
knowledge  of  military  tactics,  and  their 
leaders  were  unfitted  by  training  and 
profession  for  warlike  deeds.  But  in 
that  era  of  social  and  political  ferment 
the  chances  were  many  that  their 
efforts  would  ultimately  be  crowned  with  success ;  and  while  the  diffi- 
culties attending  the  high  enterprise  must  have  seemed  at  times  almost 
insurmountable,  their  faith  in  the  issue  was  unclouded. 

Doubtless  they  also  derived  both  stimulus  and  encouragement 
from  the  assured  success  of  the  American  Rep.iblic,  and  gladly 
risked  their  lives  in  the  hope  of  a  like  glorious  consummation. 

A  better  grounded  or  more  righteous  cause  never  existed  than 
that  of  Mexico  against  the  tyranny  and  usurpation  of  the  Spaniards, 
who  filled  every  place  of  power  and  emolument  in  the  government  to 
the  exclusion  of  the  Creoles  and  native  population. 

This  state  of  affairs  was  long  accepted  as  inevitable;  but  the  idea 
of  the  divine  right  of  kings  and  the  immutability  of  established  order 
received  a  rude  shock  when  Napoleon  overturned  so  many  of  the 
sovereignties  of  Europe,  and  among  them  that  of  Spain.  Grand 
possibilities  opened  then  before  the  vision  of  the  foremost  few,  and 
these   animated  by  the  purest  patriotism,  unavoidably  joined   forces 


3l6  FACE    TO    FACE    VVITII    THE    MEXICANS. 

with  men  who  sought  only  personal  aggrandizement  and  the  oppor- 
tunities for  place  and  power. 

The  result  of  the  coalition  of  such  conflicting  elements  may  be 
read  in  the  rapid  succession  of  events,  one  military  leader  succeeding 
another,  and,  fired  by  jealousy  and  the  dread  of  rivalry,  summardy 
disposing  of  his  predecessor.  The  popular  idol  of  to-day  may  to- 
morrow be  a  victim  to  his  own  superiority,  as  envy,  like  death,  loves 
a  shining  mark.  His  place  in  history  cannot  be  augured  from  his 
fate  at  the  hands  of  his  countrymen.  Time  avenges  all  such,  and 
many  who  were  executed  as  traitors  are  now  revered  as  martyrs,  their 
dust  the  choicest  treasure  of  the  Grand  Cathedral  and  San  Fernando. 
The  strife  in  which  they  lived  is  past ;  the  passions  to  which  they 
were  sacrificed  are  stilled  forever,  and  only  their  great  deeds  survive. 
They  live  in  the  hearts  of  their  countrymen,  and  in  every  part  of 
the  republic  their  memorials  are  to  be  found  in  the  forms  of  mural 
tablet  or  shaft. 

The  facilities  now  offered  for  travel  in  Mexico  place  within  the 
reach  of  all  who  desire  it,  the  privilege  of  visiting  in  person  the 
historic  places  mentioned  in  this  connection  ;  and  at  almost  every  turn 
of  the  railway  the  eye  may  rest  upon  some  evidence  of  a  sanguinary 
contest  or  memorial  of  stirring  event. 

It  was  my  pleasure  and  privilege  to  make  pilgrimages  to  many  of 
these  places,  and  often  while  gazing  upon  shaft  or  cross  my  heart 
has  been  thrilled  as  I  recalled  the  unparalleled  struggles  of  the  Mexi- 
can people  for  liberty. 

•'  HIDALGO,     THE    WASHINGTON    OF     MEXICO." 

Let  us  turn  for  a  moment  to  the  first  scene  in  the  grand  drama 
for  liberty. 

The  hour  is  midnight.  The  inhabitants  are  wrapped  in  a  calm  and 
delightful  repose.  The  gray-headed  veteran  and  the  child  with 
golden  curls — youth  and  innocence,  old  age  and  infirmity — are  alike 
in  profound  slumber,  in  blissful  unconsciousness  of  the  coming  storm. 
It  is  in  the  unpretentious  town   of  Dolores — suggestive  name!     The 


ACTORS  A,YV  EVE.VrS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY. 


517 


Streets  are  quiet,  but  a  glance  toward  the  little  cluirch,  henceforward 
to  become  in  verity  the  Mexican  Faneuil  Hall  and  cradle  of  liberty, 
reveals  dimly  the  outlines  of  men 
moving  stealthily  about  in  the 
gloom.  They  gather  at  length 
in  a  group  around  a  central  figure 
arrayed  in  priestly  garb,  a  slender 
form  telling  of  abstinence.  See 
his  eyes  beaming  dove-like  gentle- 
ness and  benediction  !  See  the 
warrior-soul  slumbering  in  the 
meek  priest !  See  those  eyes, 
once  filled  with  woman-like  gentle- 
ness, transformed  to  balls  of  fire 
that  burn  into  the  hearts  of 
men,  enthusing  them  with  his 
own  terrible  thoughts!  The  eagle- 
glances  that  pierce  the  semi-dark- 
ness blaze  into  the  dusky  coun- 
tenances of  his  followers !  He 
waves  his  thin  white  hands,  so 
oft  engaged  in  supplication  and 
in  eloquent  gesture,  aiding  his  sacred  oratory,  as  in  words  that  burn 
he  denounces  the  oppressor.  The  priest  is  a  warrior  now  ;  the  hand 
that  has  been  so  often  raised  in  gentle  benediction  now  strikes  in 
wild  gesture  as  though  it  held  a  sword.  It  would  have  blessed — it  is 
now  ready  to  smite  ! 

Thus  stood  the  venerable  Miguel  Hidalgo  on  the  night  of  the  15th 
of  September,  1810,  as  in  animated  tones  he  addressed  his  Indian 
allies,  concluding  with  the  exhilarating  cry,  "  Viva  XUESTR.\  Sexor.\ 
DE  Guadalupe!"  "Viva  la  Independencia  ! "  The  banner  of 
revolt  is  raised  above  their  heads  ;  he  mak  s  the  sign  of  the  cross, 
murmurs  a  prayer,  and  the  humble  cura  of  Dolores  moves  down  the 
narrow    street    in   front    of  his   bronze    adherents,   relea'^ing   captives. 


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THE    PATRIOT    HIDALGO. 


3l8  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

thus  adding  to  their  ranks,  and  in  turn  placing  in  captivity  tlie  lead- 
ing Spaniards. 

Ere  the  morning  sun  shed  his  first  beams  on  the  streets  of  Dolores, 
the  bells  pealed  forth  melodiously  at  so  early  an  hour  as  to  cause  sur- 
prise to  all  within  hearing.  Soon  the  residents  of  the  town  and  peo- 
ple from  the  adjacent /z^rj^/oj  were  seen  gathering  around  the  portals 
of  the  church  they  loved  so  well.  The  cnra  is  there,  but  not  to  cele- 
brate the  mass  on  this  Sunday  morning;  for  the  work  of  revolution 
has  already  begun.  From  tiie  pulpit  he  addresses  that  Indian  multi- 
tude as  "  My  dear  children,"  and  urges  them  to  rend  asunder  the 
despised  yoke  of  tyranny  and  to  reclaim  the  property  and  lands  stolen 
from  their  ancestors.  "  To-day  we  must  act !  Will  you,  as  patriots, 
defend  your  leligion  and  }'our  rights?"  "We  will  defend  them," 
shouts  the  crowd.  "  \'iva  imcstra  Scfwra  dc  Guadalupe !"  and  "Death 
to  the  bad  government  !  Death  to  the  Gachupines!  "  "  Live,  then, 
and  follow  your  cnra  who  has  ever  watched  over  j'our  welfare,"  is 
the  reply  of   Hidalgo. 

The  cnra  of  Dolores  has  addressed  his  congregation  for  the  last 
time;  and  though  bravely  and  resolutely  determined  to  meet  the  issue 
without  faltering,  the  thought  is  a  painful  one.  Heretofore  he  has 
warned  them  to  flee  from  the  wrath  to  come,  administered  the  holy 
sacrament  ami  signed  them  with  the  cross  in  baptism  ;  henceforward, 
in  this  new  crusade  against  oppression  and  usurpation,  he  is  their 
leader  to  victor}-  or  death  ! 

Miguel  Hidalgo  y  Costillo  was  the  second  son  of  his  parents,  who 
lived  in  the  province  of  Guanajuato. 

From  his  early  youth  he  was  a  close  student,  and  when  still  quite 
\-oung  he  had  attained  considerable  proficiency  in  philosophy,  and 
also  in  his  theological  studies  in  the  College  of  San  Nicolas  in  Valla- 
dolid.  He  received  his  degree  of  bachelor  of  theology  at  the  capital, 
and  was  appointed  successively  to  the  curacy  of  two  wealthy  parishes 
in  the  diocese  of  Valladolid.  The  death  of  his  brother  was  the 
means  of  his  appointment  as  ctira  of  Dolores,  which  gave  him  a 
salary  of  about  twelve   thousand  dollars  a  year.     He  became  a  scien- 


ACrOA'S  AND    EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY.  319 

tist,  philosopher,  and  political  economist,  and  was,  besides,  a  linguist 
of  high  order.  He  invested  his  means  in  various  ways;  grew  silk- 
worms, planted  grape-vines,  put  into  successful  operation  a  porcelain 
factory,  and  many  other  industries  for  the  advancement  of  the  people 
about  him. 

When  the  sphere  of  his  knowledge  is  considered,  he  is  found  to 
have  possessed  an  amount  of  information  far  in  advance  of  his  con- 
temporaries, while  his  social  and  conversational  gifts  were  exception- 
ally fine. 

Hidalgo  was  fifty-eight  years  old  when  he  raised  the  grito,  but  he 
had  been  long  maturing  the  plan  that  finally  triumphed  over  all 
obstacles. 

We  now  return  to  Dolores,  where  the  disaffected  had  already 
swelled  into  a  formidable  insurgent  force.  From  thence  they  pro- 
ceeded to  San  Felipe,  gathering  reinforcements  by  the  way.  They 
next  surprised  San  Miguel,  arriving  at  dark.  They  were  received  en- 
thusiastically by  the  population,  and  proceeded  without  bloodshed 
to  arrest  the  Spaniards;  Allende,  who  was  Hidalgo's  chief  support, 
and  a  brave  officer,  assuring  them  that  no  harm  should  come  to  them. 
A  cheer  was  raised  for  independence,  the  colonel  taken  prisoner,  and 
a  thousand  royalist  troops  added  to  the  insurgent  army.  Here  they 
procured  the  picture  of  the  Virgin  Guadalupe,  which  was  transferred 
to  their  banner  to  lead  them  to  victory. 

They  next  advanced  on  Guanajuato,  a  city  of  seventy  thousand 
inhabitants,  the  capital  of  the  province,  and  the  emporium  of  the 
Spanish  treasures.  Only  thirty  miles  from  the  starting-point  at 
Dolores,  but  in  this  short  distance,  the  gentle  zephyr  of  insurrec- 
tion had  become  a  perfect  hurricane  of  revolution,  and  though  the 
arms  of  the  insurgents  were  so  rude  and  miscellaneous  in  character, 
consisting  of  clubs,  stones,  machetes,  arrows,  lances  and  heavy  swords, 
they  did  not  hesitate  to  oppose  themselves  to  the  trained  and  armed 
Spanish  garrison,  and  were  victorious  through  enthusiasm  and  force 
of  numbers. 

Here  Hidalgo  remained  for  ten  days,  during  which  he  proclaimed 


320  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEX/CAA'S. 

the  independence  of  Mexico,  and  had  himself  elected  Captain-Gen- 
eral of  America  and  Commander-in-chief  of  the  army.  The  treasure, 
said  to  have  amounted  to  five  million  dollars,  provided  him  with  the 
sinews  of  war. 

We  next  see  him  at  Valladolid,  carrying  all  before  him  with  the 
same  violence  and  excessive  severity  as  at  Guanajuato.  About  this 
time  he  was  joined  by  Morelos,  also  a  priest,  and  a  former  pupil  at 
San  Nicolas,  where  Hidalgo  had  been  regent.  He  had  heard  of  the 
revolution,  and  in  October  hastened  to  ascertain  the  truth  concerning 
it  from  Hidalgo.  He  traveled  a  long  distance  before  overtaking  him, 
but  when  assured  that  his  sole  aim  was  the  independence  of  Mexico, 
full  of  patriotism  and  reverence  for  his  old  teacher,  Morelos  tendered 
his  services,  and  received  a  verbal  commission  to  organize  an  army 
and  arouse  interest  in  the  southwest.  This  was  their  last  meeting. 
The  grand  old  college  of  San  Nicolas  had  nurtured  them  both,  and 
given  an  impetus  to  their  endowments  which  would  render  both  fam- 
ous. 

After  the  departure  of  Morelos,  Hidalgo  proceeded  toward  the 
capital,  then  under  the  command  of  the  viceroy  Venegas.  With  his 
large  army  of  undisciplined  Indians  he  began  the  march,  and  reached 
Monte  las  Cruces  on  the  30th  of  the  month,  and  there  encountered 
the  Spanish  forces,  commanded  by  Truxillo  and  Iturbide.  Here  for 
the  first  time  the  raw  recruits  of  Hidalgo  came  in  contact  with  can- 
non. It  is  said  that  the  Indians,  in  their  frenzy,  rushed  forward  and 
clapped  their  straw  hats  over  the  muzzles  of  the  guns,  hoping  to 
evade  the  death-dealing  missiles. 

In  this  engagement,  Hidalgo,  though  victorious,  lost  heavily.  He 
then  went  within  siglit  of  the  city,  but  declined  to  enter,  though 
urged  by  Allende  to  do  so.  The  victory  of  Las  Cruces  had  been  so 
dearly  bought  that  another  such  would  have  been  certain  ruin. 

Although  at  this  time  Hidalgo  had  cannon  captured  from  the 
enemy,  and  his  forces  were  in  a  more  soldierly  condition  than  ever  be- 
fore, nevertheless  at  the  bridge  of  Calderon  he  was  defeated  by  Gen- 
eral Calleja.       He  then   determined  to  retreat  to  the    north,  and   with 


ACTORS  AND   EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY. 


\2l 


his  best  officers  and  several  thousand  men  reached  Saltillo  in  January. 
1811.  Leaving  Rayon  in  command,  he  concluded  to  hasten  to  the 
United  States  to  purchase  military  equipments  with  which  to  cope 
successfully  with  the  efficient  Spanish  troops.  He  reached  the  Texas 
boundary  with  a  large  sum  of  money,  when  he  was  betrayed  by 
Elizondo,*  a  former  friend  and  compatriot,  and  taken  a  prisoner  to 
the  city  of  Chihuahua. 

The  triumphs  of  his  brief  career  were  as  marvelous  as  his  defeat 
was  signal  and  irretrievable.  Henceforward  the  floor  of  his  prison  cell 
must  be  the  theater  for  the  closing  scenes  of  his  eventful  life.  No  hope 
of  escape  could  penetrate  those  low,  gray,  pitiless  walls!  Defeat  and 
captivity  have  transformed  him,  and  he  turns  once  more  to  his  early 
vocation.  The  intrepid  warrior  is  again  the  gentle  priest !  The  eagle 
glance  which  enthused  the  hearts  of  his  countrymen  is  once  more 
softened  in  dove-like  gentleness  and  benediction  !  The  hand  that 
smote  is  now  raised  in  supplication  as  he  implores  Divine  support  and 
guidance.  As  he  paces  to  and  fro,  he  surveys  the  bloody  path  over 
which  he  led  his  victorious  army,  and  while  the  retrospect  discloses 
ghastly  horrors,  he  pleads,  in  extenuation,  grim  necessity;  but  his  un- 
daunted spirit  glows  afresh  as  he  recalls  his  glorious  successes.  He 
has  opened  the  path  to  freedom,  and  the  grito  of  Dolores  will  not 
cease  to  reverberate  over  the  mountains  and  plains  of  Mexico  until  the 
work  of  liberation,  begun  by  him  and  his  compatriots,  is  completed. 

In  the  long  trial  that  followed,  even  the  chains  and  shackles  could 
not  detract  from  the  dignity  and  patience  that  characterized  him. 

On  the  27th  of  July  Dr.  Valentine,  as  delegated  by  Bishop  Olivares 
of  Durango,  pronounced  the  sentence  by  which  Hidalgo  was  degraded 
from  the  priesthood.  On  the  29th  he  was  summoned  before  the  eccle- 
siastical tribunal,  clad  in  clerical  garb,  and  relieved  of  his  fetters  for 
the  first  time    since  his  incarceration.       He  was  then   arrayed  in    the 


*  The  treachery  of  Elizondo  was  avenged  when  in  1S13  he  went  on  an  expedition  to 
Texas  and  was  mortally  wounded,  when  in  bed,  by  one  of  his  lieutenants.  He  died  on  the 
bank  of  the  San  Marcos  River,  September,  181 3. 


322  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

vestments  of  his  holy  office.  While  on  his  knees  before  the  representa- 
tive of  the  bishop,  he  listened  to  the  explanation  of  the  causes  which 
led  to  this  painful  and  humiliating  scene.  He  was  then  stripped  of  his 
sacerdotal  garments,  and  turned  over  to  the  civil  authorities,  after 
which  he  was  again  shackled  and  taken  to  his  cell. 

Ere  the  first  streak  of  dawn,  on  July  31,  181 1,  Hidalgo  was  sum- 
moned to  prepare  for  the  closing  scene.  With  the  utmost  serenity  he 
partook  of  his  last  breakfast.  He  then  declared  his  readiness  to  go 
with  the  guards,  and  assured  them  of  his  forgiveness.  So  heavily 
ironed  that  he  could  scarcely  walk,  his  courage  and  fortitude  did  not 
for  an  instant  fail  him.  He  even  remembered  and  asked  for  some 
sweets  left  under  his  pillow,  and  divided  them  among  the  soldiers. 
The  sun  had  not  yet  risen  and  orders  had  been  given  that  his  head 
should  not  be  mutilated,  so  he  calmly  placed  his  hand  over  his  heart, 
as  a  guide  for  their  aim.  A  platoon  fired,  wounding  only  his  hand  ; 
Hidalgo  remained  motionless,  but  continued  in  prayer.  Another  vol- 
ley severed  the  cords  that  held  him  to  his  seat,  and  he  fell,  though 
still  breathing.  Life  was  only  extinguished  when  the  soldiers  had 
fired  three  more  volleys  near  his  breast,  the  veneration  in  which  he  was 
held  doubtless  interfering  with  the  accuracy  of  their  aim.  Heroic  to 
the  last,  thus  died  Miguel  Hidalgo  y  Costilla,  and  the  fame  of  the 
Washington  of  Mexico,  as  he  is  called,  grows  brighter  with  succeeding 
generations. 

Allende,  Jimenez,  Aldama,  and  Santa  Maria  had  met  the  deaths  of 
martyrs  to  the  cause  of  liberty  on  June  26.  The  next  day  Chico  and 
three  others  were  shot,  all  meeting  their  death  bravely,  though  forced 
to  kneel  like  traitors  and  receive  the  fire  of  the  musketry  in  their 
backs.  Those  who  were  priests  were  first  stripped  of  their  sacerdotal 
robes  ;  then,  after  death,  each  one  was  dressed  in  the  habit  of  his 
order  and  laid  away  with  becoming  respect. 

The  heads  of  Hidalgo,  Allende,  Jimenez,  and  Aldama  were  placed 
in  the  four  angles  of  the  public  storehouse  in  Guanajuato.  Their 
bodies,  however,  were  deposited  in  the  chapel  of  the  Franciscans, 
where  they  remained   until    1823,  when  Congress  ordered  them,  with 


ACTORS  AND   EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY.  323 

their  heads,  to  be  placed   in  the  cathedral   at  the  capital  with   all  the 
honors  a  grateful  country  could  bestow-. 


JOSE   MARIA  MORELOS. 

The  death  of  Hidalgo  left  the  leadership  to  Morelos,  then  operat- 
ing in  the  southwest,  whose  superior  genius  designated  him  as  a  fitting 
successor.  Posterity  delights  in  knowing  the  birthplace  of  distin- 
guished men,  but  on  this  point  authorities  differ  with  regard  to  Mo- 
relos. Some  claim  Valladolid,  others  Apatanzingan  ;  but  from  his 
having  spent  a  great  part  of  his  early  youth  in  and  near  the  former 
city,  it  is  generally  conceded  to  be  the  place  of  his  nativity.  His  youth 
and  early  manhood  were  passed  in  hardy  outdoor  occupation,  and 
although  he  was  studious  and  ambitious,  it  was  not  until  the  age  of 
thirtyrtwo  that  he  entered  the  college  of  San  Nicolas,  where  he  studied 
philosophy  under  Hidalgo,  and, 
in  accordance  with  his  incli- 
nation, prepared  for  the  priest- 
hood. He  became  atra  of 
different  small  towns  near  by, 
and  his  frugal  habits  enabled 
him  at  a  later  period  to  pur- 
chase a  plain  home  in  Valla- 
dolid. 

At  the  time  of  becoming  a 
soldier  Morelos  was  forty-five 
years  old.  On  receiving  his 
commission  from  Hidalgo  he 
went  to  his  curacy  and  there 
collected  twenty-five  trustwor- 
thy men,  whom  he  armed 
with  muskets,  and  began  the 
march  to  the  southwest.  I 
have  looked  on  much  of  that 
barren  territory  of  several  hun-  ,ose  maria  m,.relos. 


324  FACE    70   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

dred  miles,  and  wondered  how  in  those  perilous  times  he  could  have 
traversed  it  safely  with  his  little  band.  At  the  various  towns  and 
hamlets,  however,  he  received  reinforcements,  and  sometimes  whole 
militia  companies  seceded  to  him  ;  but  these  were  undrilled  and 
unarmed.  With  this  crude  material  and  humble  beginning  Morelos 
inaugurated  a  thorough  and  systematic  course  of  instruction  in  military 
tactics;  so  that  in  less  than  two  months  he  had  not  only  a  well-drilled 
force  of  two  thousand  men,  but  had  also  inspired  them  with  much  of 
his  own  ardor  and  patriotism.  He  believed  more  in  a  small  force 
with  efficiency  than  in  large  numbers  without  discipline.  His  army 
continued  to  increase,  and  one  victory  led  to  another;  he  often  took 
b\-  surprise  Spanish  garrisons,  imprisoning  their  leaders,  and  inducing 
the  troops  to  unite  v/ith  him.  With  this  army  he  contended  again 
and  again  successfully  with  the  first  commanders  of  the  time  and  the 
country. 

Indeed,  the  tide  of  events  had  so  favored  him  that  he  naturally 
felt  that  the  great  cause  of  independence  \\as  assured.  This  was 
accentuated  when,  in  the  latter  part  of  1811,  he  was  joined  by 
Mariano  Matamoros,  another  Indian  priest,  who,  from  the  evident 
force  of  his  character,  would  lend  valuable  aid  to  the  great  work. 
Morelos  made  him  a  colonel,  and  together  they  waged  the  war  more 
vigorously  than  ever.  If  one  considers  the  previous  lives  of  these 
men,  the  genius  they  displayed  must  appear  the  more  extraordinary. 
Their  special  talent  was  latent  until  it  burst  forth  in  those  brilliant 
actions  which  startled  the  world.  The  military  ability  of  Morelos 
elicited  encomiums  from  one  of  the  greatest  captains  of  the  age — 
Wellington;  while  Matamoros  is  described  by  Alaman  as  the  most 
active  and  successful  leader  of  the  insurrection. 

The  first  great  event  after  Matamoros  joined  Morelos,  occurred  at 
Cuantla,  where  the  latter  had  intrenched  himself.  Here  General 
Calleja,  in  command  of  the  royalist  forces,  being  repulsed  with  heavy 
loss,  determined  to  besiege  the  town.  For  this  purpose  a  second 
Spanish  force  was  sent  out,  and  the  siege  was  continued  for  nearly 
three    months    without    reducinij    their    defenses    or  diminishing  the 


ACTORS  AND   EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY.  325 

ardor  and  resolution  of  tlie  patriots.  Famine  attacked  them,  and 
the\'  were  driven  to  the  necessity  of  eating  worm-eaten  hides;  but 
capitulation  meant  certain  deatli,  despite  the  offers  of  pardon  made 
by  the  viceroy.  All  now  seemed  favorable  for  Calleja  to  capture  the 
whole  army,  but  notwithstanding  his  military  prowess  and  reputation, 
with  an  ample  supply  of  men  and  munitions  of  war,  the  Indian  priest 
completely  outwitted  him.  With  masterly  strategy  Morelos  with- 
drew from  the  town  at  night,  and  had  been  gone  two  hours  before 
Calleja  knew  of  his  departure. 

In  September,  181 3,  Morelos  called  the  first  Congress  at  Chilpan- 
zingo,  the  first  act  of  which  confirmed  his  title  of  Generalissimo,  and 
a  month  later  independence  was  declared. 

It  is  not  possible  in  this  brief  sketch  to  chronicle  or  enumerate  his 
brilliant  victories,  in  many  of  which  he  was  aided  by  such  chiefs  as 
Matamoros,  Galeana,  the  Bravos,  Guadalupe  Victoria,  and  Guerrero, 
most  of  whom  figured  afterward  in  the  history  of  the  country. 

The  city  of  Valladolid  was  a  desirable  point  for  the  head-quarters 
of  either  army,  being  in  the  center  of  a  wealthy  and  populous  country. 
Morelos  approached  its  confines,  and  stretched  his  infantry  in  a  line 
in  front  of  the  city,  while  the  cavalry  occupied  the  hill  of  Santa  Maria. 
Here  it  was  that  he  met  with  an  overwhelming  defeat  at  the  hands  of 
Colonel  Iturbide,  from  which  he  never  recovered.  Soon  after,  he  lost 
his  chief  support  by  the  capture  of  Matamoros,  who  was  executed  on 
February  3d  following,  in  the  public  square  of  Valladolid,  now  called 
Morelia  in  honor  of  Morelos.  From  this  time  Morelos  met  with  a 
succession  of  defeats  and  reverses  until  November  16,  181  5,  when  he 
was  taken  prisoner,  contending  with  characteristic  bravery  against  an 
overwhelming  force.  He  was  carried  to  the  capital,  tried,  and  de- 
graded from  the  ranks  of  the  clergy,  the  bishop  shedding  tears  during 
this  last  ceremony.  He  was  then  conveyed  to  San  Cristobal,  a 
village  north  of  the  lake,  where  the  closing  scene  was  to  be  enacted. 
Having  said  the  last  prayer,  Morelos  himself  bandaged  his  eyes,  and 
was  led  forth  bound,  and  dragging  his  shackles.  He  complied  with 
the  order  to  kneel,  murmuring  calmly,  "  Lord,  thou  knowest  if  I  have 


326  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

done  well:  if  ill,  I  implore  thy  infinite  mercy."  "  The  next  moment 
he  fell,  shot  in  the  back,  passing,  through  a  traitor's  death,  into  the 
sphere  of  patriot-martyr  and  hero  immortal." 

Among  the  many  historic  places  that  I  visited,  none  interested 
me  more  than  the  house  of  Morelos  in  Morelia.  In  the  drawing- 
room  I  saw  a  finely  executed  portrait,  placed  there  by  the  Junta 
Patriotica  (Patriotic  Club)  in  1858.  In  this  the  expression  of 
the  face  shows  that  blending  of  firmness,  energy,  frankness,  and 
magnetism,  which  distinguished  him,  as  well  as  the  humor  and 
gravity  of  his  character,  and  other  evidences  of  the  genius  of  this  re- 
markable man. 

In  the  same  room  there  hangs  a  frame  containing  a  piece  of  the  silk 
handkerchief  which  served  to  blindfold  him  before  his  execution  at 
San  Cristobal.  At  the  bottom  of  the  frame  I  read  with  pathetic  in- 
terest these  lines  : 

"  This  is  the  venerated  relic, 

The  mournful  bandage  with  which  the  tyrant 

Hid  tlie  gaze  of  Morelos, 

When  the  martyr  of  the  Mexican  people 

Offered  to  his  beloved  country 

His  precious  life  as  a  sacrifice." 

In  front  of  the  liouse  is  a  commemorative  tablet  with  this  in- 
scription : 

"  Illustrious  Morelos  !    Immortal  hero  ! 

In  this  mansion  which  thy  presence 

once  honored, 

the  grateful  people  of  Morelia 

salute  you. 

September  16,  1881." 

It  will  be  seen  tliat  in  the  portrait  of  Morelos  a  haiidkcrchicl  is 
wound  around  the  head.  This  somewhat  eccentric  habit  of  his  was 
adopted  as  a  measure  of  relief  from  headache,  to  which  he  was  sub- 
ject.    His  frame  was  inassive  and   in   harmonious  development  corre- 


z":sgtf  'A*. 


U 


I 

THE    EMPEROR    AUGUSTIN     DE     ITUKBIDE. 


ACTORS  AXD   EVENTS  TV  MEXICAN  HISTORY.  329 

sponded  vvitli  his  head.  He  was  consistent  in  everything,  and  recog- 
nizing the  fact  that  war  was  a  cruel  necessity,  he  spared  neither 
himself,  his  friends,  nor  his  enemies.  His  piety  was  sincere  and 
unostentatious,  and  throughout  the  five  years  of  arduous  service  in 
behalf  of  his  country,  he  did  not  omit  his  religious  duties.  He  never 
went  into  an  engagement  without  previously  confessing  himself ;  but 
after  his  first  battle,  always  delegated  to  the  chaplain  the  celebration 
of  mass. 

THE    EMPEROR    AUGUSTIN    DE    ITURBIDE. 

With  feelings  of  more  than  ordinary  interest  I  now  turn  to  a 
contemplation  of  the  life  of  Augustin  de  Iturbide.  A  peculiar  chain 
of  circumstances  has  associated  his  memory  intimately  with  my  own 
experiences  and  first  days  spent  in  Mexico,  imparting  a  flavor  of  ro- 
mantic interest  to  the  details  that  follow. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  in  exploring  the  immense  old  house  in 
which  I  lived,  my  curiosity  was  richly  rewarded  by  the  discovery  of 
the  dust-covered  and  cobwebbed  portrait  of  a  beautiful  woman.  The 
soft  eyes  beamed  on  me  from  the  painted  canvas  and  the  lips  parted 
as  if  to  speak.  For  two  years  it  remained  a  mystery,  but  at  length  I 
ascertained  that  it  was  the  portrait  of  Dona  Ana,  the  beautiful  wife 
of  the  Emperor  Iturbide.  More  than  two  years  passed,  and  1  again 
returned  to  the  land  of  the  Aztecs  ;  even  now  scarcely  expecting  to 
tread  the  soil  which  had  nurtured  both  Iturbide  and  Dofia  Ana.  But 
I  had  not  only  the  pleasure  of  visiting  at  Moreliathe  identical  houses 
in  which  they  were  born  and  reared,  but  also  had  the  happiness  of 
enjoying  the  acquaintance  and  friendship  of,  with  one  exception,  the 
last  living  and  only  descendants  of  this  handsome  and  distinguished 
pair.  Augustin  de  Iturbide  was  fifteen  when  his  father  died,  and  the 
management  of  large  estates  devolved  upon  him. 

His  parents  were  of  noble  birth  from  Navarre,  in  old  Spain  ;  but 
Augustin  was  a  native  of  Mexico,  having  been  born  at  Morelia,  Sep- 
tember 27,  1783.  He  was  married,  at  twenty-two,  to  the  lovely  Dofia 
Ana  Maria  Huerte,  also  of  a  distinguished  Spanish  family.    The  same 


330  FACE    TO    FACE    WITJI    THE    MEXICANS. 

year  in  which  his  father  died  he  joined  a  volunteer  militia  regiment 
in  Morelia,  and  in  1805  entered  the  regular  royalist  army.  His  first 
experience  of  real  military  life  was  at  the  encampment  at  Jalapa, 
and  in  1809  he  gave  material  aid  in  crushing  an  embryo  revolution  at 
Morelia. 

It  is  said  that  Hidalgo  so  highly  appreciated  the  military  talents 
displayed  by  Iturbide,  that  he  offered  him  the  position  of  lieutenant- 
general  before  the  'nxst  grit 0  at  Dolores.  He  declined  this  office  and 
afterward,  as  colonel  of  the  royal  army,  took  part  in  many  brilliant 
engagements,  directed  mostly  against  Morelos,  the  recognized  succes- 
sor of  Hidalgo.  The  dashing  young  colonel,  full  of  enthusiasm  for 
the  maintenance  of  established  law  and  order,  and  the  grave,  clerical 
leader,  had  been  nurtured  among  the  same  scenes. 

Mention  has  been  made  of  the  defeat  of  Morelos  by  Iturbide  at 
their  native  city.  One  of  the  most  memorable  events  in  the  War  of 
Independence  was  this  encounter  on  the  hills  of  Santa  Maria,  which 
skirt  the  city.  Iturbide,  who  was  second  in  command,  sallied  out 
with  a  small  party  to  reconnoiter.  Seeing  defects  in  the  position  of 
the  insurgents,  where  Matamoros  had  not  taken  due  precautions  in 
forming  his  line,  he  determined  to  seize  the  advantage,  and  with  only 
three  hundred  and  sixty  cavalry,  he  dashed  up  the  hill,  accessible 
only  by  a  steep  path,  where  they  were  much  exposed  to  cross-fires 
from  the  revolutionary  army.  He  gave  a  loud  cheer  and  rushed  for- 
ward with  his  gallant  band,  creating  dismay  and  confusion  in  the 
forces  of  Morelos.  Not  expecting  such  an  attack,  they  were  panic- 
stricken,  and,  it  being  then  after  dark,  believed  that  the  entire  royal- 
ist forces  were  upon  them.  A  desperate  battle  ensued  in  the  dark- 
ness of  the  night  betweea  the  insurgents  themselves,  during  which, 
after  his  gallant  feat,  and  with  captured  banners  and  cannon,  Itur- 
bide retired  in  safety  to  the  city,  where  he  was  received  with  enthusi- 
astic demonstrations. 

He  received  no  promotion  for  that  service,  and  Calleja  said  in 
after  years,  "  Colonel  Iturbide  deserved  more  than  I  thought  proper 
to  give  him."     Soon  after  this  brilliant  action  he   became  involved  in 


ACTORS  AND   EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY. 


331 


dissensions  with  the  military  authorities,  in  consequence  of  which  he 
retired  to  private  Hfe.  But,  smarting  under  the  injustice  that  had 
been  shown  him,  he  conceived  the  idea  of  devoting  his  talents  and 
services  to  the  liberation  of  his  country.  The  royalists  evidently 
feared  his  marked  abilities,  should  he  again  come  upon  the  scene.  A 
bishop,  writing  to  Calleja,  then  viceroy,  said  of  Iturbide,  '•  That  young 
man  is  full  of  ambition,  and  it  would  not  surprise  me  if,  in  the  course 
of  time,  he  became  the  liberator  of  his  country."  Later  events 
proved  the  correctness  of  the  prediction. 

The  seed  sown  by  Hidalgo  was  nurtured  by  Morelos,  and,  in  due 
time,  the  whole  grand  scheme  was  harvested  by  the  strong  arm  of 
Iturbide. 

In  the  opinion  of  many  writers,  Morelia  has  given  birth  to  the  two 
most  brilliant  men  in  Spanish-America — Morelos  and  Iturbide. 

For  four  years  the  cause  of  independence  languished,  though  a 
guerrilla  warfare  was  for  a  time  kept  up  by  Guerrero,  Guadalupe 
Victoria,  and  others.  In  1820  the  troubles  in  Spain  urged  the  Mexi- 
cans to  a  renewed  effort  for  independence.  Iturbide  was  again  called 
upon  b}'  the  viceroy,  and  given  the  command  of  the  army  of  the 
southwest.  In  the  distracted  condition  of  the  country,  he  knew  the 
only  safe  and  practicable  plan  would  be  to  accept  and  then  carry  out 
his  own  design  of  freedom.  Having  a  secret  understanding  with 
Guerrero,  under  pretense  of  an  engagement,  he  soon  afterward  coa- 
lesced with  that  leader,  taking  his  army  with  him.  Thus  it  was,  after 
all  the  struggle  and  sacrifice  of  years,  independence  was  achieved  by 
a  bloodless  victory.  Iturbide  then  formulated  "  the  plan  of  Iguala," 
an  embodiment  of  his  ideas  of  government,  the  first  article  of  which 
declared  the  independence  of  Mexico. 

It  was  well  received  at  the  time  and  accepted  alike  by  the  leaders 
and  people.  Soon  after,  on  his  thirty-eighth  birthday,  he  entered  the 
great  capital  triumphantly,  surrounded  by  his  aids,  greeted  with  all 
the  enthusiasm  and  manifestations  of  delight  which  the  people 
were  capable  of  displaying.  Keys  of  gold  were  handed  him  with 
great   ceremony  on   a   silver  salver.     The  country  showered    honors 


332  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

upon  him,  and  on  the  night  of  May  i8,  1822,  he  was  made  Emperor. 
In  his  address  to  the  people  he  said,  "  If,  Mexicans,  I  do  not  secure 
the  happiness  of  the  country;  if  at  any  time  I  forget  my  duties,  let 
my  sovereignty  cease."  He  was  crowned  by  the  bishop,  but  with  his 
own  hands  he  placed  the  diadem  on  the  brow  of  Dofla  Ana.  An  im- 
perial household  was  established  with  imposing  splendor,  and  money 
was  coined  in  his  image.  He  also  instituted  the  Order  of  Guadalupe, 
a  return  to  the  days  of  chivalry,  and  designed  to  add  to  the  prestige 
of  the  government.  But  "  uneasy  lies  the  head  that  wears  a  crown," 
and  Iturbide  was  no  exception  to  the  truth  of  the  apothegm.  Only 
nine  months  from  his  coronation,  pressure  of  circumstances  and  po- 
litical changes  forced  him  to  abdicate.  A  sentence  of  exile  was  pro- 
nounced against  him,  and  three  months  later,  with  his  family,  he  was 
on  his  voyage  to  Italy. 

To  the  soldier  accustomed  to  a  life  of  action,  exile  was  intolerable; 
and  possessed  of  an  irresistible  desire  to  return,  within  a  year  he  made 
the  homeward  bound  journey  which  proved  fatal.  A  new  and  hostile 
government  was  in  power,  and  Iturbide  had  lost  his  old  influence. 
Not  knowing  the  stern  attitude  of  the  government  toward  him,  he 
landed  July  14,  1824,  at  Soto  la  Marina,  on  the  gulf  coast;  and 
scarcely  had  he  touched  his  mother  soil  when  he  found  himself  a  pris- 
oner. 

General  Garza,  the  military  commander,  unwilling  to  act  on  his 
own  responsibility,  referred  the  matter  to  the  State  Congress  of  Ta- 
maulipas,  then  in  session  at  Padilla.  With  much  show  of  respect  and 
seeming  confidence  the  ex-Emperor  was  conducted  thither.  He  ar- 
rived late  at  night,  hopeful  and  unsuspicious,  having  himself  been 
placed  by  Garza  in  command  of  the  escort  which  accompanied  him. 
The  next  morning  he  was  informed  that  he  must  prepare  for  death 
that  afternoon.  He  remonstrated,  asserting  his  innocence  of  any 
desire  to  disturb  the  existing  order  of  things,  and  referring  in  proof 
of  this  to  the  presence  of  his  family  on  shipboard.  On  finding  the 
decree  inexorable,  he  said,  "  Tell  General  Garza  I  am  ready  to  die,  and 
only  request  three  days  to  prepare  to  leave  this  world  as  a  Christian." 


ACTORS  AND   EVENTS  I.V  MEXICAN  HISTORY.  HI 

But  even  this  was  denied  him,  and  on  the  evening  of  July  19th,  when 
the  shadows  began  to  gather  and  all  nature  was  sinking  to  rest,  they 
led  him  forth  to  execution. 

With  noble  and  commanding  mien  ;  with  all  his  beauty  and  valor 
and  social  gifts  ;  his  smooth  white  brow,  encircled  with  wavy  light 
brown  locks,  now  bared  to  meet  the  last  decree  of  fate,  the  pa- 
triot stood  undaunted,  in  Roman  dignity.  In  clear  tones  he  ad- 
dressed these  words  to  the  soldiers:  "Mexicans,  in  this  last  mo- 
ment of  my  life  I  recommend  to  you  the  love  of  your  country  and 
the  observances  of  our  holy  religion.  I  die  for  having  come  to  aid 
you,  and  depart  happy  because  I  die  among  you.  I  die  with  honor, 
not  as  a  traitor  ;  that  stain  will  not  attach  to  my  children  and  their 
descendants.  Preserve  order  and  be  obedient  to  your  commanders. 
From  the  bottom  of  my  heart  I  forgive  all  my  enemies."  The  officer 
came  to  bind  his  eyes,  to  which  he  objected,  but  being  told  that  it  was 
a  necessary  form,  he  unfalteringly  bandaged  his ow-n  eyes;  then  being 
requested  to  kneel,  he  did  so,  and  the  next  instant  received  the  fatal 
volley  which  terminated  his  brilliant  and  eventful  life.  His  remains 
were  buried  in  the  dilapidated  old  church  at  Padilla,  where  they  rested 
until  1838,  when,  with  somewhat  tardy  justice  and  appreciation,  an 
act  of  Congress  was  passed  by  which  they  were  removed  to  the  capi- 
tal. They  now  rest  in  a  stately  tomb,  in  the  great  cathedral,  with 
those  of  the  noblest  and  best  sons  of  Mexico.  Here  also  lies  Mo- 
relos,  his  old-time  opponent.  Cradled  in  the  same  city,  their  final 
resting-place  is  beneath  the  same  dome. 

On  a  tablet  in  the  front  wall  of  Iturbide's  house  I  read  the  follow- 
ing inscription  : 

"On  September  27,  17S3, 

Augustiii  de  Uurbide, 
The  Liberator  of  Mexico, 
Was  born  in  this  house. 
Morelia,  September  16,  1881." 

The  i6th  of  September,  being  the  Mexican  4th  of  July,  was  a  fit- 


334  rACE    TO   PACE    JlTJJl    TJIE    MEXICANS. 

ting    time     fi)r    Morelia    to    remember    her    two    most    distinguished 
sons. 

The  title  of  Liberator  was  conferred  upon  Iturbide  in  1853,  nearly 
thirty  years  after  his  death,  and  two  years  later  the  anniversary  of 
his  death  was  declared  a  public  holiday.  On  that  day  a  grand 
mass  is  celebrated  in  the  cathedral  of  Mexico  for  the  repose  of  his 
soul. 

The  ex-Emperor  left  a  wife  and  eight  children,  but  only  the  two 
youngest  and  Doiia  Ana  accompanied  him  on  his  fateful  return  voy- 
age, the  others  being  left  at  school  in  England.  The  widow  went  first 
to  New  Orleans,  afterward  lived  in  Washington,  then  in  Baltimore, 
finally  taking  up  her  permanent  residence  at  Philadelphia,  where  in 
1 86 1  the  once  beautiful  Dona  Ana  ended  her  eventful  life,  and  now 
rests  with  several  of  her  children  in  a  vault  of  St.  Mary's  Church  in 
that  city. 

The  Princess  Josefa,  the  only  surviving  child  of  the  Emperor,  re- 
sides in  the  City  of  Mexico.  She  remembers  the  coronation  of  her 
father  and  the  pomp  of  court  life  which  followed  during  his  short 
reign.  It  was  my  pleasure  to  make  her  acquaintance,  and  I  found  her 
a  woman  of  rare  conversational  gifts  as  well  as  great  personal  charm 
of  manner.  She  is  remarkably  well  preserved,  and  still  shows  a  vigor- 
ous and  cultivated  intellect;  is  a  fine  linguist,  and  possesses  a  vast 
amount  of  historical  information. 

But  the  one  who  connects  the  past  with  the  present  is  Prince 
Angel  de  Iturbide.  He  attended  the  Jesuit  College  at  Georgetown, 
D.  C,  where  as  a  school-boy  he  met  and  loved  Alice  Green,  the 
lovely  daughter  of  Nathaniel  Green,  of  that  city.  The  wooing  was 
persistent,  and  finally  this  charming  and  accomplished  woman  became 
his  wife.  In  the  course  of  time  the  laws  which  had  banished  Dofta 
Ana  and  her  family  relented,  and  the  Iturbides  were  allowed  to  return 
to  Mexico. 

Now  comes  an  old,  old  story,  but  one  which  loses  nothing  by  fa- 
miliarity. In  the  checkered  fortunes  of  Mexico,  a  prince  of  the  house 
of  Habsburg  and  an  Austrian  archduke  was  invited  by  the  conserva- 


ACTORS  AND    EVENTS  IX  MEXICAN    HISTORY.  335 

tive  party  to  preside  over  a  new  empire.  Shortly  after  liis  arrival  in 
Mexico  he  nivited  the  Princess  Josefa  to  take  up  her  residence  in  tlie 
imperial  household  as  a  member  of  the  family.  She  accepted,  and  was 
accorded  the  highest  distinction  by  Maximilian  and  Carlotta. 

Feeling  the  insecurity  of  his  position  and  hoping  to  conciliate  the 
discordant  element  among  the  Mexican  people,  Maximilian  proposed 
to  adopt  the  grandson  of  the  Emperor  Iturbide — son  of  Don  Angel 
and  Alice  Green  de  Iturbide — and,  should  his  empire  succeed,  the 
young  Augustin,  then  three  years  old,  would  be  heir  to  the  throne. 
But  a  condition  was  made  that  his  parents  should  leave  Mexico 
without  delay.  The  government  then  owed  them  a  large  sum  of  pen- 
sion money,  which  it  was  agreed  should  be  paid  them  in  case  of  com- 
pliance. 

The  prospect  was  brilliant,  and  the  parents  thought  that  to  some 
extent  the  arrangement  would  bring  reparation  for  the  wrongs  in 
flicted  on  the  child's  grandfather,  and  so  consented.  The  beautiful 
boy,  with  soft  golden  curls,  gentle  blue  eyes  and  sweet  baby  prattle, 
became  at  once  the  idol  of  Maximilian  and  Carlotta.  But  the  mother 
was  bereft  of  her  darling,  and  the  compact  was  no  sooner  agreed  to 
than  recfretted  ;  she  and  her  husband  were  to  leave  Mexico  immedi- 
ately,  and  the  separation  from  her  only  child  might  be  final  and  last- 
ing. She  reached  Pueblo  en  route  to  Europe,  but  the  anguish  was  too 
great,  and  she  returned  to  the  capital,  hoping  to  regain  the  custody  of 
her  child.  Marshal  Bazaine  received  her  with  kindness,  and  she  then 
addressed  a  heart-rending  appeal  to  Maximilian.  But  under  the  guise 
of  being  taken  to  the  palace  she  was  decoyed  from  the  city  and  forced 
to  return  to  Pueblo.  In  Paris  she  met  Carlotta,  then  on  her  ill-fated 
mission  to  procure  aid  for  the  fast  crumbling  empire.  They  had  a 
memorable  interview,  and  soon  after,  as  Madame  Iturbide  herself  told 
me,  Carlotta  received  the  death-blow  to  her  hopes,  and  even  when 
ordered  to  Italy  by  Napoleon,  evidences  of  a  tottering  reason  were 
manifest.  Throughout  these  trying  scenes  Madame  Iturbide  main- 
tained the  dignity  befitting  a  brave  and  high-bred  woman. 

When     Maximilian     felt    his    fate    fast    overtaking    him,   he  sent 


336  FACE    TO    FACE    U'/T/f    THE   MEXICANS. 

Augustin  to  Havana,  and  at  the  same  time  communicated  with 
Madame  Iturbide,  who  joyfully  met  and  received  again  to  her  tender 
heart  her  idolized  boy.  He  is  now  a  strikingly  handsome  young  man, 
twenty-three  years  of  age,  six  feet  in  height,  and  possessing  wonderful 
physical  strength.  He  has  a  finished  education,  both  European  and 
American,  and  is  an  accomplished  linguist.  He  is  also  a  lover  of  scien- 
tific knowledge,  and  exceptionally  well  read  in  history.  Added  to  these 
natural  and  acquired  advantages,  he  has  artistic  tastes,  sketches  from 
nature,  and  is  skilled  in  music.  In  1885  he  was  awarded  the  gold 
medal  at  the  college  at  Georgetown,  D.  C,  for  the  best  oration  de- 
livered at  the  closing  exercises.  The  hero  of  a  romantic  story,  he  ap- 
pears unconscious  of  the  notice  he  has  attracted,  and  retains  his  modest 
demeanor  and  genial  disposition,  with  the  dignity  and  social  graces 
which  render  his  society  delightful  to  all  who  come  in  contact  with 
him.  On  his  handsome  country  estate  he  leads  a  business  life, 
and  never  seems  happier  than  when  there,  dressed  in  his  buck- 
skin suit  and  silver-decked  sombrero,  and  mingling  freel\'  among  his 
employees,  who  adore  him.  The  minutest  detail  of  hacienda  life 
claims  his  careful  attention,  showing  a  happy  adaptability  to  circum- 
stances. 

The  elegant  residence  of  the  Iturbides  at  the  capital  stands  on  the 
grand  Pasco,  immediately  to  the  right  of  the  statue  of  Carlos  IV. 
Both  there  and  at  their  hacienda  of  San  Miguel  Sesma,  I  have 
enjoyed  their  graceful  hospitality  and  unrestricted  friendship.  On 
these  occasions  Madame  Iturbide  related  many  interesting  incidents 
and  reminiscences  of  her  boy's  early  life.  Among  them,  to  me,  one 
of  the  most  amusing  was  the  manner  in  which  Augustin,  when  a  little 
more  than  four  years  old,  spoke  his  first  English.  His  cousin,  Plater 
Green,  a  few  months  older,  fell  from  a  tree,  when  Augustin  ran  to 
his  parents,  crying  out :  "  Plater  he  up  de  tree — Plater  he  down  de 
tree — Plater  he  no  cry — Plater  he  one  very  man  !  "  After  this  he 
would  speak  no  more  Spanish.  Although  brought  up  according  to  the 
Mexican  custom  of  dependence  on  a  servant,  he  early  manifested  the 
desire  to  throw  off  such  bondage  and  prove  his  self-reliance.     At  the 


ACl'OHS  AND   EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY.  339 

age  of  fourteen,  all  alone,  with  $i,ooo  in  his  pocket,  he  sailed  from 
Vera  Cruz  to  New  York,  thence  to  Liverpool,  and  from  there  to 
Oscott  College,  near  Birmingham,  where  he  presented  his  letters  to 
the  president,  and  entered  himself  as  a  student.  His  life  is  still 
before  him,  and  with  his  rich  natural  endowments  and  intellect- 
ual culture,  his  career  will  doubtless  be  worthy  of  his  lineage  and 
training. 

The  accompanying  portraits  furnish  an  excellent  representation  of 
mother  and  son. 

Madame  de  Iturbidc,  herself,  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  women 
of  her  time.  Beautiful  in  her  youth,  she  is  still  strikingly  handsome 
in  face  and  figure.  Of  distinguished  presence,  queenly  in  manner  and 
bearing,  she  impresses  one  as  possessing  in  reserve  the  strength  of 
will  and  purpose  which  sustained  her  in  so  many  trying  circumstances. 
All  the  elements  of  kindliness,  courtesy,  and  dignity  are  combined  in 
her,  to  which  is  added  a  personal  magnetism  which  calls  forth  the 
warmest  regard  and  devotion  from  all  who  enjoy  the  privilege  of  her 
friendship.  During  the  thirty  years  since  she  went  to  Mexico,  a 
bride,  she  has  been  a  close  observer  of  men  and  things.  She  is  a 
living  compendium  of  information  on  subjects  of  general  interest,  and 
is  especially  delightful  in  recounting  those  historical  incidents  which 
have  come  under  her  own  observation. 

In  every  transaction  of  business  Madame  Iturbide  has  proved  her- 
self equal  to  the  occasion  ;  and  in  the  various  lawsuits  in  which  she 
has  been  engaged  before  the  Mexican  courts,  she  is  said  by  competent 
authority  to  be  as  well  versed  in  the  jurisprudence  of  the  country  as 
the  lawyers  themselves.  She  is  much  attached  to  her  Mexican 
friends,  who  warmly  reciprocate  the  feeling,  never  losing  an  oppor- 
tunity of  showing  their  devotion  to  her.  Americans  everywhere  may 
take  pride  in  the  fact  that  she  is  their  countrywoman. 

VINCENTE  GUERRERO. 

My  interest  in  the  history  of  Mexican  independence  was  deep- 
ened  by   meeting   and   associating   with    many   of   the   descendants 


340 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


of  the  statesmen  and  patriots  who  bore  a  conspicuous  part  in  those 
thrilling  scenes.  All  who  are  linked  by  lineage  or  ties  of  consanguin- 
ity to  the  heroes  of  the  revolution,  preserve  sacredly  every  reminder 
and  relic  of  their  progenitors.  Amid  such  surroundings,  my  desire 
for  information  was  stimulated,  and  the  impressions  then  received 
remain  among  the  choicest  treasures  of  memory  garnered  during  my 
sojourn  in  old   Mexico. 

Vicente  Guerrero  was  one  of  the  leading  spirits  of  the  revolution- 
ary period,  and   is  revered  in  the   history  of  his  country  as  a  man  of 

unyielding  patriotism,  strict  integ- 
rity, and  stanch  loyalty  to  its 
cause.  After  the  death  of  More- 
los,  the  gerins  of  independence 
were  kept  alive  and  nurtured  hy 
Guerrero,  who  operated  in  the 
southwest,  and  was  the  most  con- 
spicuous figure  among  the  insur- 
gents when  joined  by  Iturbide. 

In  the  conflicts  which  have  been 
waged  on  Me.xican  soil,  guerrilla 
warfare  has  always  borne  a  lead- 
ing'part,  the  inaccessible  mountain 
fastnesses  yielding  immunity  from 
danger  of  pursuit.  This  was  the 
method  pursued  by  the  leaders  after  the  fall  of  Hidalgo,  Morelos,  and 
Matamoras.  When  at  last  independence  was  achieved,  Guerrero  took 
an  active  part  in  every  important  movement  until  his  death. 

He  was  the  third  president  of  the  republic,  and  had  served  only 
a  short  time  when  he  was  deposed  by  Bustamente,  then  vice-pres- 
ident. He  retired  to  his  country  estate,  Tierre  Colorado,  in  the  vici- 
nity of  Tixtla  ;  but  being  informed  of  a  plot  against  his  life,  he  left 
there  and  joined  Alvarez,  then  in  revolt  against  the  government  which 
had  succeeded  that  of  Guerrero.  Fearing  his  influence,  his  death  was 
determined  on,  and  when,  despite  the  warnings  of  Alvarez,  he  went  to 


VICENTE    Cl'ERRERO. 


ACTORS  AND   EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY.  34I 

Acapulco,  the  opportunity  came  to  carry  out  the  nefarious  plot.  A 
Genoese  named  Picakiga  owned  a  vessel  then  in  the  port  of  Acapulco, 
called  the  "  Colombo."  Knowing  the  desire  of  the  parties  in  power  to 
get  rid  of  Guerrero,  he  made  a  compact  with  Minister  F'acio  to  decoy 
Guerrero  on  shipboard,  and,  for  the  sum  of  $50,000,  to  deliver  him  over 
to  his  enemies.  This  was  accomplished  by  Picaluga  inviting  Guerrero 
to  breakfast  with  him  on  board,  and  on  rising  from  the  table  he  caused 
him  to  be  seized  and  shackled  and  conveyed  to  Guatulco,  where  the 
trial  for  his  life  soon  began.  A  long  list  of  crimes  was  brought  against 
him,  any  one  of  which,  to  a  man  of  Guerrero's  integrity  and  patriotism, 
would  have  been  impossible.  After  this  show  of  justice,  he  was  sen- 
tenced to  be  shot,  and  forced  to  listen  to  the  reading  of  his  sentence 
on  his  knees.  On  February  14,  1831,  he  was  executed  at  Cuilapa,  which 
later  avenged  the  wrong  by  changing  its  name  to  Ciudad  Guerrero. 

A  strong  feature,  consequent  on  the  taking  off  of  these  heroes, 
was  the  quick  rebound  of  public  opinion.  They  were  required 
to  receive  sentence  kneeling,  and  not  infrequently  further  humili- 
ated by  being  shot  in  the  back  as  traitors;  but  scarcely  were  they 
dead  ere  another  party  arose  to  avenge  them  ;  and  in  due  time  the 
nation  issued  its  decree  that  their  remains  should  be  removed  to  a 
more  honored  spot,  and  laid  away  with  imposing  ceremonies. 

The  historian  Alaman,  whose  work  on  Mexican  independence  is 
perhaps  the  most  important  that  has  been  published,  was  a  member  of 
the  cabinet  under  Bustamente  when  Guerrero  was  tried  and  executed. 
After  the  downfall  of  that  administration,  the  whole  ignoble  pro- 
ceeding was  looked  upon  as  downright  murder  by  the  succeeding 
government,  and  three  members  of  the  late  cabinet,  Alaman, 
Espinosa,  and  Facio,  were  impeached. 

But  it  was  thought  that  the  last  named  was  almost  wholly  respon- 
sible, as  he  had  entered  into  the  moneyed  bargain  with  the  treacher- 
ous Picaluga.  Tlie  trial  was  postponed  from  time  to  time,  until  at 
length  the  cause  was  regarded  as  a  party  affair.  Alaman  was  finally 
acquitted,  his  suavity  and  finished  education  no  doubt  assisting  him 
in   his  defense.     Facio  went   to  Europe,  and  never  again    mingled  in 


342  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

politics.  Picaluga,  the  Genoese,  was  sentenced  by  his  government  to 
death,  and  mulcted  in  heavy  damages  ;  but  as  he  could  not  be  found, 
he  escaped  punishment.  Gonzales,  who  received  the  hapless  Guerrero 
at  Guatulco,  died  miserably,  a  slow,  torturous  death. 

Many  tributes  to  the  public  and  private  virtues  of  Guerrero  may 
be  found  in  various  places  ;  and  his  name  is  perpetuated  in  that  of 
one  of  the  States  of  the  Republic.  It  was  said  of  him  that  "  his 
modesty  overshadowed  his  intelligence  to  the  extent  of  not  allowing 
him  to  enjoy  the  fruits  of  his  services  as  his  talents  deserved." 

Guerrero  left  a  wife  and  one  child,  a  daughter,  who  became  the 
wife  of  Mariano  Riva  Palacio,  afterward  one  of  the  most  distin- 
guished lawyers  and  public  men  of  his  time.  Their  son  is  General 
Vicente  Riva  Palacio,  so  often  mentioned  in  these  chapters. 

I  would  like  to  dwell  at  length  on  the  Bravos — Leonardo,  the 
father,  and  Nicolas,  the  son.  They  loved  their  countrj'  with  exalted 
patriotism,  and  devoted  their  lives  to  its  liberation.  Nicolas  is  spoken 
of  by  historians  as  one  of  the  noblest  specimens  of  manhood  that 
the  times  produced.  They  were  no  less  attached  to  each  other  than 
to  their  country. 

After  the  battle  of  Cuantla,  the  father  was  taken  prisoner,  tried, 
and  condemned  to  be  shot.  Venegas,  the  viceroy,  so  highly  appre- 
ciated his  abilities  that  he  offered  Bravo  his  life  if  he  would  induce  his 
brothers  and  Nicolas  to  join  the  royalists.  But  liberty  was  his  watch- 
word ;  he  scorned  the  offer,  and  paid  the  forfeit.  A  number  of 
Spanish  prisoners  had  been  offered  in  exchange  for  him,  but  the 
viceroy,  appreciating  the  value  of  a  Bravo,  had  declined  in  his  turn. 

The  grief  of  Nicolas  for  his  father  was  deep  and  lasting;  but  even 
under  this  great  sorrow  his  magnanimity  shines  forth  grandly.  He 
had  then  in  his  camp,  as  prisoners,  three  hundred  Spaniards,  many  of 
them  wealthy  and  influential  men.  His  power  over  them  was  abso- 
lute; and  had  he  taken  their  lives  in  retaliation  for  his  beloved 
father's  death,  perhaps  justice  and  the  usages  of  war  would  have  said, 
"  Well  done  !  "     But  hear  his  noble  words  to  them : 

"  Your  lives  are  forfeit.    Your  master,  Spain's  minion,  has  murdered 


ACTORS  AND  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY. 


343 


my  father ;  murdered  him  in  cold  blood  for  choosing  Mexico  and 
liberty  before  Spain  and  her  tyrannies.  Some  of  you  are  fathers, 
and  may  imagine  what  my  father  felt  in  being  thrust  from  the  world 
without  one  farewell  word  from  his  son, — a\' !  and  your  sons  may  feel 
a  portion  of  that  anguish  of  soul  which  fills  my  breast,  as  thoughts 
arise  of  my  father's  wrongs  and  cruel  death. 

"And  what   a  master  is   this  you  serve!     For  one  life,  ni}-  poor 
father's,  he   might  have  saved  you   all,  and  would  not.     So  deadly  is 
his  hate,  that  he  would  sacrifice  three   hundred  of  his  friends  rather 
than  forego  this  one   sweet   morsel 
of  vengeance.     Even  I,  who  am  no 
viceroy,  have  three  hundred  lives  for 
my    father's.      But    there    is  yet    a 
nobler  revenge  than  all.    Go  !     You 
are  free!    Go,  find  your  vile  master, 
and    henceforth    serve    him,  if   you 
can !  " 

In  gratitude  to  him  for  sparing 
their  lives,  the  soldiers,  with  tears 
in  their  eyes,  offered  their  services 
in  his  cause,  and  were  faithful  to 
the  last.  General  Bravo  after- 
ward bore  a  conspicuous  part  in 
the  history  of  his  liberated  country. 
He  lived  to  take  part  in  the  Ameri- 
can war,  his  last  military  service  being  at  the  defense  of  Chapultepec 
and  Molino  del  Rey.  He  died  in  1854,  at  the  age  of  sixty-eight, 
beloved  and  admired  by  all  who  knew  him. 

Equal  in  luster  are  the  lives  of  other  leading  heroes  of  independ- 
ence, whose  deeds  might  shine  in  the  bright  galaxy  of  a  Plu- 
tarch. Guadalupe  Victoria  was  one  of  these  immortal  and  brave 
spirits  the  record  of  whose  career  resembles  more  a  fabled  romance 
than  a  veritable  history  of  real  life.  When  the  power  of  Spain 
seemed  re-established,  Victoria  retired   to  the   mountains,  where  he 


GUADALUPE   VICTORIA. 


344  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

was  hunted  like  a  wild  beast  by  order  of  the  viceroy,  at  one  time  a 
thousand  soldiers  being  employed  in  the  search.  A  report  of  his 
death  gave  him  a  respite,  and  he  lived  alone  in  secluded  and  inacces- 
sible fastnesses,  without  seeing  a  huinan  being  for  two  years  and  a 
half,  until  news  was  brought  to  him  of  the  revolution  of  1821,  when 
he  hastened  to  join  Iturbide.  He  became  first  president  of  the  re- 
public, and,  although  every  opportunity  for  peculation  and  private 
gain  was   afforded   him,  remained   so  poor  that  he  was  buried  at  the 

public  expense. 

GENERAL    SANTA  ANNA. 

I  congratulated  myself  upon  an  opportunity  of  visiting  and  be- 
coming acquainted  with  the  daughter  of  General  Antonio  Lopez  de 
Santa  Anna,  the  Seflora  Guadalupe  de  Santa  Anna  de  Castro.  I 
found  her  an  agreeable  conversationalist,  with  pleasing  manners  and  a 
happy  faculty  for  entertaining.  Her  son  was  present,  and  during  my 
travels  in  Mexico  I  have  met  few  young  men  of  more  sprightliness 
and  intelligence.  He  is  about  twenty-five,  has  a  finely  shaped  head,' 
blue  eyes  and  fair  complexion,  resembling  his  mother,  while  his  bear- 
ing is  graceful  and  dignified.  He  speaks  English  fluently,  having 
been  secretary  of  the  Mexican  Legation  at  Washington.  Let  me 
whisper  to  my  young  countrywomen  that  Augustin  de  Castro  is  un- 
married and  greatly  admires  American  young  ladies.  With  manifest 
pride  he  showed  me  his  gallery  of  American  beauties. 

Seflora  Castro,  with  a  kindly  appreciation  of  my  curiosity,  dis- 
played some  of  the  magnificent  clothing  worn  by  her  father.  The 
coat  was  gorgeous,  with  the  national  ensign  embroidered  with  gold. 
A  blue  satin  dressing-gown,  with  cords  and  tassels  of  gold,  was  deco- 
rated in  the  same  way.  Most  interesting,  hovvever,  was  his  mantle  of 
the  Order  of  Guadalupe  which  he  had  re-established.  It  was  of  blue 
satin  lined  with  white  moire-antique,  and  must  have  swept  the  floor 
for  at  least  three  yards.  There  was  an  imposing  life-sized  portrait  of 
Santa  Anna,  on  horseback,  reviewing  the  troops  on  the  pasco  before 
Chapultcpec.  It  was  taken  in  one  of  the  later  terms  of  his  presi- 
de ncj'. 


ACTORS  AND   EVENTS  JN  MEXICAN   HJSTOKY. 


345 


The  second  wife  of  General  Santa  Anna  was  very  youn<^  when 
married.  It  is  said  that  she  had  in  her  possession  a  valuable  auto- 
biography of  her  husband,  wliich  the  family  endeavored  in  vain  to 
procure  from  her  for  publication.  It  is,  presumably,  a  vindication  of 
his  career,  and  now,  since  the  death  of  Madame  Santa  Anna,  it  will 
likely  be  obtained. 

In  her  sprightly  way  Seflora  Castro  related  to  me  particulars  of 
her  family,  which  consists  of  two 
daughters  and  her  son  Augustin. 
Knowing  it  to  be  customary  for  mar- 
ried children  to  live  in  the  house 
with  parents,  I  innocently  asked  if 
her  married  daughters  lived  with 
her.  Quickly  she  replied  that 
"  sons-in-law  make  poetry  about 
their  mothers-in-law  when  out  of 
their  houses;  if  in  them,  it  was  not 
possible  to  predict  what  their  utter- 
ances might  be."  Their  elegant 
home  stands  on  the  first  square  to 
the  left  in  going  from  the  Alameda 
to  the  Zocalo. 

The  name  of  Santa  Anna  is 
more  familiar  to  Americans,  and 
particularly  to  Texans,  than  that 
of  any  other  Mexican.  With  it  is  associated  the  story  of  the  Alamo, 
the  massacre  of  Goliad,  and  the  triumph  of  General  Sam  Houston  at 
San  Jacinto. 

When  only  twenty-three  years  old,  Santa  Anna  entered  the  arena 
of  politics  by  disrupting  the  empire  established  by  Iturbide,  and  the  ca- 
reer thus  begun  was  consistently  carried  out.  At  an  early  age  he  had  so 
mastered  the  arcana  of  scheming  and  revolution  as  to  reflect  credit  on  a 
veteran  in  the  cause,  demolishing  and  creating  sovereignties,  often 
grasping  victory  from  defeat,  and  gathering  strength  when  all  seemed 


GENERAL    SANTA    ANNA,    WHEN    PRESIUENT    FOR    THE 

THiKD    TIME. 

(From  an  Oil  Portrait.) 


346 


FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


lost.  He  was  five  times  president,  and  was  the  means  of  deposing, 
probably,  twenty  rulers.  As  a  commander  of  men,  his  resources  and 
ability  were  remarkable.  After  the  most  disastrous  defeat  he  gen- 
erally managed  to  retire  from  the  scene  still  holding  the  confidence 
of  his  ragged,  half-starved  army,  increasing  it  materially  while  on  the 
move. 

From   1822   to   1855  he  was  the  most  conspicuous  figure  in  public 
life.     If  deposed,  he   withdrew  to  his  beautiful  hacienda  of  Manga  de 


Vi^'J'  1.,  , 


."1  i**-,y!''n* 


*V4.:v 


MANGA    DE   CLAVO,   THE    HACIENDA   OF  SANTA    ANNA. 


Clavo,  near  Jalapa.  If  exiled,  he  went  without  remonstrance,  con- 
fident that  his  lucky  star  would  again  lead  him  to  the  front,  and  with 
fertile  brain  every  ready  to  plan  a  revolution  or  arrange  a  coitp  d'lHat. 
But  it  may  be  truly  said  that  in  either  case  he  was  punctual  to 
respond  whenever  his  country  demanded  his  services. 

When  the  war  with  the  United  States  came  on,  Santa  Anna  had 
shortly  before  returned  from  exile.  He  at  once  took  command  of  an 
army  of  20,000  men.  He  first  met  with  a  heavy  defeat  by  General 
Taylor  at  Buena  Vista,  then  at  Cerro  Gordo  by  General  Scott,  and 
when  he  retreated  to  defend  the  capital,  defeat  still  followed  him,  and 


ACTORS    AND    EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY.  34/ 

Molino  del  Rey,  Chapultepec,  and  the  capital  surrendered  to  General 
Scott.  His  last  move,  in  the  vain  endeavor  to  retrieve  his  fortunes, 
was  to  besiege  Puebla,  when  he  was  again  defeated,  this  time  by 
General  Lane.  After  the  treaty  of  Guadalupe-Hidalgo,  in  1848, 
Santa  Anna  sailed  for  Jamaica.  During  this  last  exile  the  condition 
of  the  country  bordered  on  anarchy,  and  the  need  of  a  strong  govern- 
ment was  so  irnpe;rative  that  i«  1853  Santa  Anna  was  recalled.  He 
was  enthusiastically  received,  and  appointed  president  for  one  year, 
when  a  constituent  congress  should  be  called.  But  instead  of  the 
latter,  he  instigated  a  new  revolution,  by  which  he  was  declared  presi- 
dent for  life,  with  the  title — well  calculated  to  provoke  a  smile — of 
"  Serene  Highness."  A  despotic  spirit  was  soon  manifested,  and  the 
result  was  the  revolution  of  Ayutla,  led  by  General  Alvarez,  one  of 
the  heroes  of  the  wars  of  independence.  After  this  memorable 
event,  a  desperate  struggle  of  two  years  ensued,  when  Santa  Anna 
abdicated,  and  left  for  Havana,  August  16,  1855.  Afterward,  being 
a  man  of  leisure,  he  visited  Venezuela,  where  he  remained  two  years. 
He  then  retired  to  the  island  of  St.  Thomas,  where  he  lived  quietly, 
orobably  meriting  his  title  of  "Serene  Highness"  more  than  at  any 
other  time  in  his  career. 

He  returned  in  the  early  part  of  the  French  intervention,  pledging 
neutrality  ;  but  having  issued  a  manifesto  calculated  to  cause  disturb- 
ance, was  ordered  by  Marshal  Bazaine  to  leave  the  country,  which  he 
did,  retiring  again  to  St.  Thomas. 

After  the  fall  of  Maximilian,  he  returned  to  Vera  Cruz  to  find 
himself  a  prisoner  under  sentence  of  death.  Though  this  was  not 
carried  out,  he  was  required  to  leave  Mexico  forever.  From  this 
time  until  the  death  of  Juarez,  in  1872,  he  resided  in  the  United 
States.  He  returned  once  more  to  his  native  land,  aged,  feeble,  and 
broken  in  spirit  and  fortune,  and  died  in  the  City  of  Mexico  on  June 
21,  1876,  aged  eighty-four  years.  He  was  buried  at  the  church  of 
Guadalupe,  only  a  few  prominent  individuals  following  the  funeral 
coretge. 

Not  the  lea.st  singular  circumstance  in  the  stormy  and  checkered 


348 


FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


life  of  this  remarkable  man  is  its  ending.  Having  passed  through 
every  phase  of  danger,  while  so  many  of  his  contemporaries  fell  in 
battle,  or  met  death  on  their  knees,  he  bore  a  charmed  life,  and, 
surviving  defeat  and  exile,  returned  to  the  scenes  of  his  grandest 
triumphs,  and  breathed  out  his  last  days  on  his  own  soil  surrounded 
by  his  family. 

In  the  accompanying  illustrations  we  see  him  first  as  president, 
covered  with  the  insignia  of  his  successes ;  and  the  later  portrait  pre- 
sents him  as  he  looked  at  the  time 
of  his  death.  The  contrast  is  strik- 
ing and  mournful,  telling  of  failure 
in  a  man  possessing  so  many  ele- 
ments of  greatness,  who  might  have 
held  the  highest  place  in  the  hearts 
of  his  countrymen  long  after  his 
physical  frame  had  moldered  into 
dust. 

The  signing  of  the  Federal  Chart 
in  1857  was  one  of  the  most  import- 
ant of  all  the  memorable  events  in 
Mexican  history.  Its  anniversary 
is  wisely  observed  as  a  national  holi- 
day. 

Of  the   large  number  of  signers, 

GEM  \NNA.  . 

there  remam  only  twenty-five  sur- 
vivors. Several  of  these  are  octogenarians,  while  others  fill  places  of 
trust  and  importance  in  their  country's  service.  Foremost  and  best 
known  to  us  are  Seflor  Ignacio  Mariscal,  at  present  Minister  for 
Foreign  Affairs:  Seflor  Romero  Rubio,  Secretary  of  the  Interior; 
General  Ochoa ;  and  the  veteran  statesman,  politician,  and  soldier, 
Guillermo  Prieto — all  of  the  capital. 

We  now  come  to  consider  a  few  of  the  leading  spirits  of  the  war 
of  reform  which  began  to  be  prosecuted  when  Santa  Anna  stepped 
aside  from  the  political  arena. 


ACTOXS   AND    EVENTS   IN   MEXICAN  HISTORY.  349 

BENITO  JUAREZ. 

Let  us  now  take  a  pleasant  stroll  through  the  Alameda  and  along 
the  great  highway  leading  to  Tacuba,  until  we  come  to  the  grand  old 
church  and  T^retty  plasuclla  of  San  Fernando,  and  the  Pantheon,  bear- 
ing the  same  name.  The  little  plaza  is  shaded  by  giant  trees,  fragrant 
with  myriad  flowers,  carpeted  with  soft,  green  turf,  and  the  air  ren- 
dered sweet  and  delicious  by  the  ripple  of  the  sparkling  fountain  : 
a  place  for  day-dreams,  so  quiet  and  redolent  of  the  past.  But,  in  pur- 
suance of  our  object,  we  suddenly  find  ourselves  within  a  broad,  grated 
doorway,  and  the  next  moment  a  polite  little  old  man,  clad  in  do- 
mestic, comes  forward,  hat  in  hand,  with  a  smile,  and  the  question  : 

"  What  will  you  have  ?  " 

"  We  wish  to  see  the  monument  to  Juarez ;  "  whereupon  he  leads 
the  way,  halting  as  we  halt  fo  read  an  inscription  on  this  or  that  tomb 
or  vault,  and  volubly  relating  the  history  of  the  occupants  of  this 
grand  old  burial-ground.  He  became  so  interesting  at  last,  that  I 
found  myself  desirous  to  know  something  of  him,  this  plain,  humble, 
polite  old  man.     Without  ceremony  I  asked  : 

"Tell  me  something  of  yourself." 

"■  Muy  bicn,  scfiora.  You  have  heard  of  the  battle  of  Chapultepec, 
between  the  Americans  and  Mexicans?" 

"  Yes  !  "   I  replied  ;  "  but  what  has  that  to  do  with  you  ?  " 

He  shook  his  head,  as  he  recalled  the  scenes  then  enacted,  and 
responded  : 

"  I  was  the  bugler  on  that  awful  day,  and  saw  our  dear  old  flag  go 
down  and  the  Americans  take  possession  of  that  place,  so  sacred  to 
every  Mexican." 

He  then  went  on  to  relate  the  tragic  and  heart-rending  incident  of 
the  death  of  the  gallant  forty-eight  students,  boys  from  fourteen  to 
twenty,  who  had  their  swords  wrested  from  their  hands  and  died  no- 
bly in  defense  of  their  country.  We  listened  to  the  old  man's  remi- 
niscences as  we  passed  the  tombs  of  Zaragoza,  Miramon,  Mejia,  and 
others ;  but  welcomed  the  timely  silence  which  fell  on  the  party  as  we 


350 


FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 


reached  the  tomb  of  Mexico's  greatest  statesman,  patriot,  and  soldier, 
her  Indian  president,  Benito  Juarez.  Here  he  Hes,  stretched  out  in 
majestic,  marble  dignity  ;  so  life-like,  so  realistic,  as  to  cause  a  sudden 
thrill  of  awe  in  the  beholder.  It  was  a  touching  inspiration  of  Manuel 
Islas  when  he  chiseled  this  sublime  effigy,  with  the  mourning  figure 
of  La  Patria  bending  over  it.  Summer  and  winter  this  noble  tomb  is 
fragrant  with  floral  offerings  most  gorgeous  and  beautiful,  laid  there 
by  his  grateful  countrymen. 

In  striking  contrast  with  the  grandeur  of  his  last  resting-place  was 

,.-,,  .  the  early  home  of  the  Champion  of 

'  Reform.      I    see   it    now,  a    simple 

adobe  structure  containing  two  or 
three  rooms,  without  windows,  their 
earthen  floors  cleanly  swept,  and 
with,  perhaps,  only  one  or  two  doors 
for  the  whole  building.  The  roof 
was  of  either  adobe  or  planks;  if 
the  latter,  it  was  held  in  place  by 
numerous  stones,  while  climbing 
and  clinging  tenderly  to  the  un- 
sightly walls  were  tropical  vines  and 
plants  which,  in  the  profuse  luxuri- 
ance of  nature,  covered  the  whole 
with  their  blossoms  of  gorgeous 
tints,  finally  disappearing  over  the  housetop,  and  transforming  the 
humble  home  into  a  bower  of  beauty.  The  inclosure  was  composed 
of  the  organ-cactus,  standing  like  sentinels  warding  off  all  intruders. 

The  village  of  San  Pablo  Gueltaco  reclines  unevenly  on  a  rocky 
spur  of  the  Sierra  Madre  in  the  State  of  Oaxaca,  whose  shores  are 
washed  by  the  waters  of  the  Pacific.  The  liamlet  has  its  narrow, 
irregular  streets,  its  forest  trees,  tropical  flowers,  and  luscious  fruits, 
and  in  the  grateful  shade  stands  the  neat  white  church  to  which  the 
devout,  in  undisguised  simplicity  and  piety,  repair  at  all  hours  of  the 
day. 


BRNITO    JUAREZ. 


ACTORS  AMD  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN   IIISIORY.  35  I 

The  Enchanted  Lake  lies  near,  reflecting  in  its  translucent  depths 
the  tropic  growths  surrounding  it,  and  suggesting  the  romantic  and 
shadowy  traditions  of  the  past. 

Two  hundred  Indian  aborigines  constitute  the  entire  popu- 
lation of  San  Pablo.  They  live  by  tilling  the  soil  in  the  old-time 
honest  way.  The  parents  of  Benito  Juarez  cultivated  their  few  acres 
and  tended  their  cattle  with  the  rest,  in  happy  equality.  Amid  these 
primitive  surroundings  the  champion  of  Me.xican  independence  and 
reform,  on  March  21,  1806,  first  saw  the  light.  He  never  knew  a 
mother's  love,  she  having  died  at  his  birth,  leaving  him  to  the  care  of 
his  grandmother  and  uncle.  Here  he  lived  until  he  was  twelve  years 
of  age,  and  was  so  thoroughly  an  Indian  that  not  one  word  of  Spanish 
had  ever  passed  his  lips. 

About  this  time  he  attracted  the  attention  of  a  worthy  citizen  of 
Oaxaca,  who  took  him  into  his  service,  and  recognizing  the  boy's 
talents,  determined  to  give  him  the  best  possible  educational  advan- 
tages. He  placed  him  in  the  ecclesiastical  seminary,  with  a  view  to 
the  priesthood,  but  finding  that  profession  repugnant  to  his  tastes, 
within  a  year  he  threw  off  the  robes  and  turned  to  the  law.  He  en- 
tered the  college  of  Oaxaca,  where  he  pursued  his  legal  studies, 
teaching  at  the  same  time.  Here  he  graduated  with  honors,  and  in 
1834  was  admitted  to  the  bar.  During  these  years  he  distinguished 
himself  in  every  branch  of  study,  and  his  conduct  was  most  exem- 
plary. 

He  did  not  long  pursue  the  practice  of  law,  but  devoted  himself 
to  political  affairs.  Quite  early  he  began  to  study  the  welfare  of  his 
country,  being  deeply  imbued  with  a  sense  of  the  importance  of  a 
radical  change  in  affairs.  The  Conservatives  imprisoned  him  for  his 
outspoken  utterances,  but  the  effect  was  to  add  strength  to  his  vigor- 
ous thought. 

In  1842  he  became  chief  justice  of  the  Republic,  which  ofifice  he 
held  for  three  years.  He  was  made  governor  of  his  own  State  in  1847, 
and  remained  so  until  1852,  on  every  possible  occasion  introducing 
liberal  measures  and  useful  reforms.     As  a  determined  enemy  to  des- 


35^ 


FACE  TO  FACE   iVITH  THE  MEXICANS. 


potism,  he  was  exiled  by  Santa  Anna,  when  he  took  up  his  residence 
in  New  Orleans,  where  he  lived  for  two  years  in  great  poverty.  On 
the  revolution  of  Ayutla,  in  1855,  from  which  event  dates  the  law  of 
reform,  Juarez  returned  and  joined  with  Alvarez,  who  commanded  the 
revolutionary  forces  against  Santa  Anna.  The  success  of  the  revolu- 
tion made  Alvarez  president,  and  Juarez  became  minister  of  justice 
and  religion.  His  first  move  was  a  bold  one — the  abolition  of  the 
special  clerical  and  militar\'  courts,  under  which  these  two  classes  had 
enjoyed  immunity  from    the   general  laws.     Congress  sanctioned   the 


TOMB  OF  JUAREZ,  IN  SAN  FERNANDO. 

whole,  but  a  change  of  administration  followed,  when  the  new  presi- 
dent, Comonfort,  fearing  the  progressive  liberalism  of  Juarez,  ap- 
pointed him  governor  of  his  own  State. 

The  promulgation  of  the  Federal  Chart  in  1857  made  a  decisive 
change  in  the  political  outlook.  In  this  year  Juarez  was  elevated 
to  the  office  of  justice  of  the  supreme  court— a  position  equivalent 
to  that  of  vice-president  of  the  United  States.  In  1858  he  be- 
came president,  but  the  strength  of  the  reactionary  party  was 
such  as  to  cause  him  to  transfer  the   government  from  one  point  to 


ACTOA'S  AND   EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY.  353 

another  until  he  reached  Vera  Cruz.  A  strong  defense  was  his  rec- 
ognition as  president  by  the  United  States  in  1859;  but  it  was  not 
until  1861  that  he  was  enabled  to  establish  his  government  at  the 
capital,  having  defeated  Miramon,  who  was  at  the  head  of  the  church 
party.  The  next  year  he  was  confirmed  as  president,  and  at  once  set 
about  reorganizing  the  whole  body  politic.  The  suppression  of  re- 
ligious orders,  the  confiscation  of  church  property,  and  the  suspension 
of  the  payments  of  foreign  debts  and  national  liabilities  were  the 
most  prominent  acts  of  his  administration. 

Mention  has  been  made  in  another  chapter  of  the  wholesome 
effect  of  his  vigorous  measures,  and  the  great  work  still  goes  on. 
Juarez  seemed  to  have  been  born  to  redress  the  wrongs  of  the  times, 
and  events  so  shaped  themselves  in  his  stormy  career  as  to  develop 
the  wonderful  firmness  and  strength  of  his  nature.  After  the  issuance 
of  his  decree  suspending  the  payment  of  national  indebtedness, 
France,  England,  and  Spain  united  to  invade  the  country.  The  allied 
forces  reached  Vera  Cruz ;  but  Juarez  having  pledged  himself  that  the 
interests  of  creditors  should  be  protected,  all  withdrew  except  France. 
Under  pretense  of  protecting  its  citizens,  but  really  with  a  view  to 
establishing  a  monarchy  in  which  the  interests  of  the  church  would 
be  paramount,  the  French  government  sent  an  army  of  invasion,  April, 
1862,  under  General  Forey,  whose  first  movement  was  the  capture  of 
Puebla.  Juarez,  finding  the  capital  insecure,  retired  to  San  Luis  Potosi. 
In  1864,  protected  by  French  bayonets,  Maximilian  ascended  his  un- 
certain throne,  while  the  government  of  the  people,  represented  by 
Juarez,  moved  from  one  point  to  another  until  it  finally  rested  at  Paso 
del  Norte. 

•While  here.  President  Juarez  was  frequently  invited  to  cross  the 
river,  and  visit  the  American  ofificers  at  Fort  Bliss  ;  but  he  always 
declined,  fearing  that  such  an  act  might  be  construed  into  an  aban- 
donment of  his  own  beloved  soil. 

In  June,  1866,  he  began  his  southward  march.  Over  much  of  the 
same  ground  which  he  had  traveled  a  fugitive,  he  now  led  his  victori- 
ous army.     In  February,  1867,  Marshal  Bazaine,  with  his  army,  sailed 


354  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH   THE   MEXICANS, 

for  France,  leaving  Maximilian  behind  in  a  hostile  country.  The 
latter  was  entreated  to  leave,  but  his  fate  withheld  him. 

Juarez  soon  had  possession  of  Queretaro,  where  Maximilian  had 
concentrated  his  few  remaining  soldiers.  The  story  of  the  execution 
of  Miramon,  Mejia,  and  Maximilian,  on  June  19,  1867,  needs  no  repeti- 
tion. For  some  time  public  opinion,  especially  outside  the  republic, 
censured  the  execution  of  these  distinguished  men  ;  but  in  counting 
the  cost  of  their  venture,  they  must  have  anticipated  death  in  case  of 
failure.  The  memory  of  Juarez  is  undimmed  by  the  shadow  of  aught 
that  would  detract  from  his  glory.  Had  he  never  done  another  act 
save  that  of  divorcing  Church  and  State,  his  name  should  remain  for- 
ever embalmed  in  the  hearts  of  his  people. 

Although  every  opportunity  to  acquire  wealth  was  afforded  him 
in  the  various  positions  he  held,  the  truth  comes  down  to  us  that  he 
died  a  poor  man.  His  family  relations  were  of  the  happiest  nature, 
and  in  the  society  of  wife  and  children  he  enjoyed  relaxation  from  the 
cares  of  state  and  public  affairs. 

He  was  re-elected  president  in  1871,  and,  after  so  much  storm  and 
contest,  he  might  have  hoped  to  live  out  his  days  in  undisturbed 
calm  ;  but  though  physically  strong,  his  nervous  system  gave  way  at 
last.  He  died  on  July  ig,  1872,  aged  sixty-six  years,  revered  and 
honored  by  his  contemporaries  and  a  shining  example  for  future  gen- 
erations. The  recumbent  marble  figure  in  San  Fernando  is  but  a 
faint  tribute  to  his  worth. 

Among  the  many  pleasant  people  of  historic  association  whose 
acquaintance  I  made  at  Morelia,  was  the  polite  and  accomplished  son 
of  Melchor  Ocampo,  who  was  a  prominent  figure  in  the  early  reform 
movement,  and  whose  name  is  familiar  to  many  of  our  own  country- 
men of  that  period.  The  young  man  gave  us  the  life  of  his  father, 
from  which  I  have  made  a  few  touching  extracts.  The  enthusiastic 
compiler,  Eduardo  Ruiz,  properly  dedicates  the  work  to  the  students 
of  San  Nicolas,  because,  as  he  says,  "  the  last  thought  of  Ocampo, 
before  his  execution,  was  of  the  students,  whom  he  called  his  sons." 

One  of  the  choicest  spirits  of  the  time,  and  associated  with  Juarez 


ACTORS  AND  EVENTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTORY.  355 

in  the  reform  agitation,  was  Don  Mexiior  Ocampo,  Governor  of  Mich- 
oacan.  He  had  also  been  a  cabinet  minister  under  Alvarez,  in  1855- 
56.  Alike  in  his  brilliant  and  studious  youth,  and  in  the  dignity  of 
his  mature  manhood,  he  devoted  himself  to  the  cause  of  emancipat- 
ing his  country  from  military  depotism  and  from  the  tyranny  of  those 
retrograde  ideas  which  had  so  long  retarded  her  progress.  He  was  a 
poet  and  a  scholar,  as  well  as  a  patriot,  philanthropist,  and  statesman, 
and  his  pen  and  sword  were  alike  consecrated  to  the  service  of  his 
country.  Like  many  of  his  contemporaries  and  fellow-workers  in  the 
field  of  reform,  he  did  not  live  to  enjoy  the  fruits  of  his  labors ;  but 
who  will  therefore  say  his  life  was  incomplete,  or  not  fully  rounded 
out? 

His  tragic  death  exemplified  all  the  manly  virtues  of  his  life, 
and  it  is  fitting  to  relate  how  grandly  and  calmly  this  Mexican  hero 
died. 

He  had  retired  to  his  country  place  near  Pomoca,  where  he  sought 
a  quiet  interval  from  the  cares  of  state,  solaced  by  friendship  and  sur- 
rounded by  his  trees  and  flowers. 

In  the  early  morning  of  a  day  in  May,  1861,  a  company  of  reaction- 
ary soldiers,  with  their  captain,  approached  the  house.  They  entered 
and  arrested  a  gentleman  whom  they  saw  there,  Don  Entimio  Lopez, 
under  the  belief  that  he  was  Ocampo.  The  soldiers  were  about  to  re- 
tire with  their  prisoner  when  Ocampo  appeared  on  the  scene.  He 
had  been  in  an  inner  room,  and  had  just  discovered  the  presence  of 
the  soldiers,  and  his  friend's  arrest.  He  approached  the  captain,  ask- 
ing,  tranquilly: 

"  For  whom  are  you  looking?  " 

"  Ocampo,"  was  the  reply. 

"Well,  I  am  Ocampo  :  release  this  gentleman  ;   he  is  my  guest." 

Without  giving  him  time  to  get  even  his  hat,  they  marched  off  with 
him  to  TepejideJ  Rio,  where,  on  being  presented  to  General  Marquez, 
the  cause  of  the  proceeding  was  clear  and  the  issue  certain.  This 
general  had  given  orders  that  any  one  taken  prisoner  who  had  labored 
in  the  cause  of  reform,  should  be  instantly  shot. 


3S6  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

Ocampo  proved  his  heroism  in  the  trying  hour  of  death.  He  slept 
calmly  the  night  before  his  execution.  The  next  morning,  June  3, 
1861,  he  was  notified  that  his  hour  had  come.  Standing  beneath  the 
shade  of  a  grand  old  tree,  he  leaned  against  its  trunk;  then  asking 
for  pen,  ink,  and  paper,  he  wrote  in  a  firm  hand  an  addition  to  his 
last  will  and  testament  in  behalf  of  his  family,  remembering  also  some 
orphan  children,  and  adding  a  clause  bequeathing  his  library  to  the 
Colegio  de  San  Nicolas.  Then  placing  his  hands  upon  the  tree,  he 
raised  his  head  as  if  in  prayer,  when  the  discharge  of  firearms  added 
another  to  the  long  list  of  martyrs  to  the  cause  of  liberty  in  Mexico. 

In  appreciation  of  his  character  and  services,  his  native  State  has 
added  his  name,  and  is  now  known  as  Michoacan  de  Ocampo.  His 
remains  were  taken  to  the  capital,  and,  after  lying  in  state  in  the  na- 
tional palace,  were  laid  to  rest  in  San  Fernando,  in  the  glorious  com- 
panionship of  his  co-laborer  in  reform,  Juarez. 

Mexico  has  her  hundreds  of  noble  and  heroic  sons,  many  of  whom 
have  reached  their  three-score  and  ten  years.  They  have  served  her 
in  victory  and  defeat,  and  through  her  darkest  hours  have  never 
swerved  in  their  patriotic  allegiance.  Some  of  them  now  occupy  ex- 
alted positions  in  diplomatic  relations  >vith  foreign  countries. 

Among  those  who  have  grown  gray  in  her  service  are  Seflor 
Navarro,  for  a  quarter  of  a  century  Mexican  consul  at  New  York.  He 
was  a  strong  adherent  of  Juarez,  and  is  a  native  of  Morelia.  Another 
is  Seflor  J.  Escobar,  the  venerable  consul  at  El  Paso,  Texas,  who  has 
faced  danger  in  all  its  forms,  braved  defeat  time  and  again,  but  never 
lost  his  love  of  country.  On  one  occasion  at  Chihuahua,  during  the 
French  intervention,  he  was  imprisoned  and  made  to  sweep  the  streets 
with  the  common  prisoners  of  the  town,  for  attempting,  with  others, 
to  celebrate  the  i6th  of  September  in  honor  of  Hidalgo.  The  ladies 
and  children  turned  out  en  masse  and  strewed  flowers  along  his  way  as 
he  performed  his  humiliating  task.  He  has  filled  various  responsible 
public  offices,  having  been  Secretary  of  Legation  at  Washington 
1861-2-3,  and  was  also  sent  to  England  during  the  war  between  the 
States  as  a  confidential  agent  of  his  government. 


ACTOA'S   AND    EVt.NTS  IN  MEXICAN  HISTOICY. 


35/ 


The  pages  of  histor}-  have  not  recorded  a  more  stirring  event  than 
the  war  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico. 

Benjamin  Franklin  wisely  said,  "There  never  was  a  bad  peace  nor 
a  good  war,"  and  taking  up  these  sentiments  after  the  lapse  of  a  cen- 
tury, Hubert  Howe  Bancroft  says:  *  "  If  the  injustice  of  all  war  was 
never  before  established,  it  was  made  clear  by  the  contest  between  the 
two  republics  of  North  America. 
The  saddest  lesson  to  learn  by  citi- 
zens of  the  United  States  is,  that 
the  war  they  waged  against  their 
neighbor  is  a  signal  example  of 
the  employment  of  might  against 
right,  or  force,  to  compel  the  sur- 
render by  Mexico  of  a  portion  of 
her  territory  and,  therefore,  a  blot 
on  her  national  honor."  "The 
United  States,"  he  continues,  "  had 
an  opportunity  of  displa)'ing  mag- 
nanimity to  a  weaker  neighbor, 
aiding  her  in  the  experiment  of 
developing  republican  institutions, 
instead  of  playing  the  part  of 
bully." 

In  a  severely  caustic  spirit  he  continues  :  "  The  United  States 
could  have  secured  peace  by  ceasing  to  assail  the  Mexicans,  who  were 
fighting  only  in  self-defense  ;  but  the  much  desired  peace  they  resolved 
so  to  secure  by  war  that  a  bargain,  which  was  nothing  better  than  a  bare- 
faced robbery,  should  be  secured.  It  was  not  magnanimity  but  policy 
which  prompted  Polk  and  his  fellows  to  pay  Mexico  about  twenty 
million  dollars  when  she  was  at  the  conqueror's  mercy.  It  gave 
among  the  nations,  howsoever  Almighty  God  regarded  it,  some  shadow 
of  right  to  stolen  property.     *     *     *     The  total  strength  of  the  army 


GOMEZ   FARIAS,   THE    FIRST    MAN   TO    RECOMMEND 
THE   TAXATION    OF    CHL'KCH    PROPERTY. 


23  *  History  of  Mexico,   1824  to  1861,   page  544. 


.•?58  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH   THE   MEXICANS. 

employed  by  the  United  States  in  Mexico  from  April,  1846,  to 
April,  1848,  consisted  of  54,243  infantry,  15,781  cavalry,  1,789  ar- 
tillery, and  25,189  recruits;  making  a  total  of  96,995  men.  The 
total  number  called  out  by  the  government  exceeded  100,000 
men.  The  number  that  actually  served  in  Mexico  exceeded  80,000 
men,  not  all  called  out  at  the  same  time,  but  in  successive  periods. 
At  the  close  of  the  war,  according  to  the  adjutant  general's  report, 
there  were  actually  40,000  in  the  field.  *  *  *  The  so-called  im- 
provements of  warfare,  in  the  opinion  of  men,  justify  the  continu- 
ance of  warfare  on  the  ground  that  the  destruction  of  life  and  the 
infliction  of  suffering  have  been  undiminished  by  the  new  devices. 
God  save  the  mark !  Killing  men  is  not  a  trade  susceptible  of  im- 
provement ;  the  experiences  of  the  Mexican  war  show  that  neither 
side  dispensed  with  the  horrors  of  ancient  practices. 

'•  The  gain  in  territory  by  the  United  States  was  immense,  com- 
prising a  surface  of  650,000  square  miles.  From  the  mines  alone  it  is 
computed  that  precious  metals  have  been  extracted  to  the  extent  of 
§3,500,000,000.  Besides  this,  we  must  remember  the  vast  wealth  of 
Texas,  California,  Colorado,  New  Mexico,  Nevada,  Arizona,  and  Utah. 

■'  The  loss  in  money  to  Mexico  will  never  be  ascertained.  *  *  * 
And  yet,  unhappy  as  the  results  were  for  it,  one  must  acknowledge 
that  its  honor  was  maintained.  The  treaty  represents,  indeed,  its 
great  misfortune,  but  does  not  involve  perpetually  ignominious  stipu- 
lations, such  as  many  another  nation  has  submitted  to  at  the  will  of 
the  conqueror." 

A  bitter  dose  is  this  that  Mr.  Bancroft  has  prepared  to  go 
down  to  posterity  as  the  history  of  that  war.  But  in  accepting 
his  faithful  research,  and  reluctantly  admitting  the  truthfulness 
of  his  assertions,  a  part  of  the  public,  at  least,  will  attribute  his 
severe  criticisms  of  President  Polk  to  a  wide  difference  of  political 
opinion. 

It  is  not  the  writer's  intention  to  cast  any  reflections  upon  Presi- 
dent  Polk  or  his  administration,  or  to  arouse  bitter  feeling  in  the  sur- 
vivors   of  that    struggle.       No    one    more    upholds    the   braver}'   and 


ACTORS  AND   EVENTS  I\   MEXICAN   HIS'IORY.  359 

integrity  of  her  countrymen.  The  war  seemed  to  have  been  one  of 
the  exigencies  of  the  times  and  our  neighbors  fit  subjects  for  spolia- 
tion. 

But  did  not  Mr.  Bancroft  present  his  honest  convictions,  lie  would 
repudiate  that  boasted  freedom  of  speech  of  which  every  American 
citizen  is  proud. 

It  is  well,  however,  to  have  both  sides  of  the  question,  and  if  this 
historian  appears  too  severe  to  the  average  American  mind,  we  have 
the  writings  of  a  sweet  and  gentle  woman,  which  frankly  take  up  the 
wrong-doings  of  her  countrymen  after  the  conquest  of  California.  Let 
every  American  read  for  himself  Helen  Hunt  Jackson's  pathetic  story 
of  Rainona,  and  deplore  the  wrongs  that  were  heaped  upon  the  Teme- 
cula  Indians,  as  well  as  other  native  races,  who  lived  in  California 
at  and  after  the  time  of  the  conquest.  How  her  generous  nature 
revolted  at  the  injustice  of  her  own  countrymen;  and  ere  she  closed 
her  eyes  in  their  last  sleep,  she  presented  her  views  in  so  eloquent 
a  manner  as  to  produce  a  deep  and  powerful  impression  throughout 
this  great  nation. 

Her  Century  of  Dishonor  likewise  unfolds  a  pitiable  story  of  the 
course  of  our  government  towards  the  Mexican  Indians.  Her  last 
words  ever  penned  were  the  outpourings  of  her  spirit  in  the  form  of 
a  prayer  to  President  Cleveland  in  behalf  of  the  Indians.  May  it  be 
good  seed  sown  in  good  ground  which  shall  come  forth  and  produce 
abundantly  in  future  generations! 

Another  thought  is  here  suggested,  which  has  already  taken  form 
in  the  minds  of  many  eminent  writers,  such  as  David  A.  Wells,  Joa- 
quin Miller,  Solomon  Buckley  Griffin,  and  numberless  others,  equally 
well  known.  Tiie  proposition  is,  that  every  banner,  cannon,  or 
other  trophy  captured  during  that  unhappy  contest  be  returned  to 
Mexico.  It  would  be  but  a  just  though  tardy  reparation  of  a  great 
wrong. 

If  the  matter  were  placed  before  Mrs.  Cleveland,  ami  the  power 
given  her  to  do  as  she  in  the  goodness  of  her  gentle  heart  and  purity 
of  purpose   thought   best,  we   are  sure   of    one  thing  this   Queen  of 


360  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

Hearts  would  undoubtedly  say:  "Give  them  every  one  back;  I 
want  to  see  fitting  justice  done  to  these  people." 

For  the  benefit  of  those  who  have  not  looked  into  tlie  causes  of 
the  Mexican  war,  especially  for  the  younger  generation  who  may  not 
have  had  access  to  standard  works  on  the  subject,  I  will  state  that  the 
bone  of  contention  was  the  boundary  line  between  Texas  and  Mex- 
ico, when  the  former  was  about  to  relinquish  her  claims  as  a  republic 
and  seek  admission  into  the  United  States.  The  strip  of  country  in- 
volved in  the  controversy  was  that  l>'ing  between  the  Nueces  River 
and  the  Rio  Grande,  about  300  miles  long  and  with  an  average  width 
of  7S  miles,  equal  altogether  to  22,500  square  miles.  The  Mexicans 
claimed  the  Nueces  as  the  boundary,  while  the  Americans  claimed 
the  Rio  Grande. 

Several  of  the  most  distinguished  men  of  Mexico  have  married 
American  women.  Among  them  is  Sefior  Mariscal,  who  at  Washing- 
ton, in  1866,  married  Miss  Clara  Smith,  a  brilliant  American  beauty. 
They  have  four  lovely  daughters,  and  live  in  great  elegance  at  the 
Mexican  capital.  Senor  Mariscal  has  been  secretary  of  the  Mexican 
Legation  in  Washington  ;  twice  minister  to  the  Lhiited  States  ;  once 
minister  to  England  ;  twice  minister  of  justice ;  twice  minister  of 
foreign  affairs,  and  justice  of  the  supreme  court.  At  present  he  fills 
the  ofifice  of  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs.  Senor  Mariscal  enjoys  the 
unbounded  esteem  and  confidence  of  all  who  know  him,  and  in  public 
affairs  no  man  is  considered  more  upright  and  honorable.  His  superior 
intelligence  and  intimate  acquaintance  with  the  affairs  and  history  of 
other  countries  and  peoples  have  enabled  him  to  render  that  assist- 
ance to  his  own  country  that  perhaps  no  other  could  give;  while  his 
conversational  powers  and  social  accomplishments  make  him  a  leading 
figure  in  society.      He  is  a  native  of  Oaxaca. 

General  Ramon  Corona,  one  of  the  bravest  and  most  faithful  of 
Mexico's  sons,  was  minister  to  Spain  for  eleven  years,  having  returned 
home  in  March,  1885.  He  is  a  man  of  distinguished  appearance,  a 
true  type  of  the  gallant  soldier,  with  a  splendid  physique,  noble  head, 
fine,  open  expression,  and   the  polishetl   manner  and   gentle  courtesy 


^. 


.^--'^Jc^a^^-*^^*^^**-^ 


ACTORS   AND   EVENTS   IN  MEXICAN    HISTORY.  3^3 

which  belong  to  his  race.  He  began  Hfe  as  a  soldier  more  than  thirty 
years  ago,  during  twenty  of  which  he  was  in  active  service,  and  [)ar- 
ticipated  in  more  than  fifty  battles.  Since  his  return  from  Spain  he 
has  resumed  his  command  in  the  army. 

In  1867  he  was  married  to  Mary  Ann  M'Entee,  a  Californian,  but 
then  residing  at  Mazatlan.  They  have  an  interesting  family  of  seven 
children,  among  them  a  grown  son  and  two  charming  daughters. 
Mrs.  Corona,  herself,  is  an  exceedingly  handsome  woman,  and  is  much 
beloved  for  her  kindness  and  benevolence.  Their  home,  one  of  the 
most  delightful  and  elegant  that  I  visited,  stands  at  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  beautiful  and  historic  Alameda.  General  Corona  is 
now  governor  of  Jalisco,  his  native  State,  of  which  Guadalajara  is  the 
capital. 

Senor  Matias  Romero,  now  and  for  many  years  Mexican  minister 
to  the  United  States,  married  Miss  Lulu  Allen,  of  New  York,  but  at 
the  time  of  her  marriage,  I  believe,  resided  with  her  parents  at  Wash- 
ington.    They  have  no  children. 

Seflor  Romero  is  a  statesman  of  liberal  and  progressive  ideas,  and 
worthily  represents  his  country. 

The  marriage  of  Bertha,  daughter  of  General  E.  O.  C.  Ord,  of  the 
United"  States  army,  to  General  Treviflo,  of  the  Mexican  army,  is 
still  fresh  in  the  public  mind.  She  died  at  Fortress  Monroe  in  1883, 
leavine  one  son,  Geronimo,  known  as  "  the  International  Baby." 
President  Diaz  was  sponsor  at  the  baptism,  which  occurred  in  Mon- 
terey, Mexico. 

General  Treviflo  is  a  fearless  and  intrepid  soldier  who  has  served 
his  country  in  the  council  and  on  the  field,  and  always  with  zeal  and 
fidelity. 

Seflor  Augustin  Arriaga,  son  of  General  Arriaga,  one  of  the  lead- 
ing spirits  of  the  Reform  war,  and  who  wrote  the  Constitution  of  1S57, 
married  a  charming  American  lady  from  Troy,  New  York.  Including 
Madame  Iturbide,  who,  as  before  mentioned,  married  Angel  Iturbide, 
there  are  six  prominent  men  of  to-day  in  Mexico  whose  wives  are 
Americans. 


364  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE   .}/ EX  SCANS. 

In  looking  over  her  political  career,  we  see  that  since  1821  Mexico 
has  had  above  fifty  rulers,  the  majority  of  whom  have  been  generals 
or  in  some  way  connected  with  the  army  ;  while  the  church,  with  its 
'chief  functionaries,  has  pla}'ed  an  important  part.  This  was  a  nat- 
ural condition,  in  view  of  the  instability  of  all  governmental  relations, 
and  these  military  rulers  have  been  generally  men  of  ability,  although 
but  few  were  permitted  to  hold  the  reins  of  power  to  the  end  of  their 
respective  terms. 

Congress  is  held  in  the  Theatre  Iturbide.  It  would  be  difficult 
to  find  a  more  dignified  and  distinguished  body  of  men.  In  their 
debates  and  arguments  they  maintain  a  polished,  courtly  manner, 
while  their  language  is  classic,  fluent,  and  eloquent.  There  is  no 
lounging,  nor  lolling,  nor  placing  of  feet  in  rectangular  positions, 
but  each  one  deports  himself  in  a  becoming  and  graceful  manner. 
In  this  body  there  are  above  two  hundred  members,  ranging  from 
young  men  of  twenty-five  years  to  venerable,  gray-haired  states- 
men. 

The  Senate  is  a  still  more  august  body,  being  in  great  measure 
composed  of  men  with  a  lifelong  experience  in  public  affairs.  There 
are  about  sixty  members,  and  their  sessions  are  held  in  the  National 
Palace. 

It  was  truly  gratifying  to  see  the  galleries  filled  with  men  from 
the  humbler  walks  of  life,  who,  from  their-  intense  interest  and  atten- 
tion, were  evidently  digesting  every  word  that  v/as  spoken  by  these 
silver-tongued  orators. 

General  Porfirio  .Diaz,  for  the  second  time  president  of  the  re- 
public, is  a  native  of  Oaxaca,  and  received  his  education  at  one  of 
the  leading  institutions  of  that  State.  Without  special  military  in- 
struction, but  following  an  evident  inclination,  at  an  early  age  he 
joined  the  army  as  sub-lieutenant.  He  was  always  on  the  liberal  side, 
and  took  part  in  the  revolution  of  Ayutla.  As  a  colonel  he  fought 
bravely  against  the  French,  and  was  captured  by  them,  but  made  his 
escape  from  his  prison  in  Puebla.  For  victories  over  the  French  and 
imperial  armies,  he  was   successively  promoted  to  brigadier  and  gen- 


7yO  /u^y^r-£^^^ 


ACTOKS  AND   EVENTS  IN   MEXICAN  HISTORY.  367 

eral  of  division,  and  finally  became  the  most  conspicuous  mililar)' 
leader  in  the  war  of  the  intervention  and  empire.  When  Escob'ido 
captured  Queretaro  and  Maximilian,  Diaz  was  besieging  Mexico  at 
the  head  of  an  army  of  sixty-five  thousand  mc:n,  and  soon  after  the  fall 
of  Queretaro  he  took  the  capital,  thus  re-establishing  the  republic. 

As  a  rival  of  Juarez,  General  Diaz  in  1871  aspired  to  the  presi- 
dency, and  after  the  death  of  the  former  he  probably  would  have 
succeeded  to  the  executive  power  but  for  an  article  in  the  constitu- 
tion which  required  that  the  office  devolve  on  the  chief-justice,  then 
Sebastian  Lerdo,  one  of  the  most  scholarly  men  of  the  country.  Be- 
fore the  expiration  of  the  term  to  which  Lerdo  was  elected,  Diaz 
had  inaugurated  a  revolution,  and  Lerdo  was  forced  to  retire,  taking 
up  his  residence  in  New  York. 

But  the  first  genuine  peace  that  Mexico  knew  was  when  Porfirio 
D  az  became  president  on  the  5th  of  May,  1877.  He  had  fought 
bravely  and  suffered  much  ;  had  been  the  hero  of  many  desperate 
adventures  and  hairbreadth  escapes,  and  had  fully  earned  all  the 
honors  his  country  saw  fit  to  confer  upon  him.  He  rescued  her 
from  a  state  of  continuous  revolution,  and  by  his  strong  arm  and 
steady  nerve  guided  the  battered  ship  into  a  haven  of  quiet.  All 
went  well  for  a  period  of  four  years  ;  peace  reigned,  th.e  tariff  was 
revised  and  the  finances  improved,  while  those  gigantic  railway  en- 
terprises were  projected  which  have  since  then  opened  up  the  country 
to  the  admiration  and  interest  of  the  world. 

At  the  expiration  of  his  term — no  man  being  allowed  under  the 
constitution  to  hold  the  office  of  president  for  two  consecutive  terms 
— the  reins  of  government  were  placed  by  General  Diaz  in  the  hands 
of  his  friend  and  companion-in-arms,  General  Manuel  Gonzales.  The 
wonderful  natural  resources  of  the  country  had  recuperated  and 
rallied  under  the  fostering  care  of  Piesident  Diaz,  and  hopes  were 
high  that,  in  this  era  of  peace  and  prosperity,  the  troubles  of  the 
country  were  at  an  end.  But  brave  .soldier  as  Gonzales  had  proved 
himself  to  be,  he  was  unequal  to  the  demands  of  the  occasion.  The 
history  of  his  administration  is  well  known. 


368  FACE    TO   FACE    IV I  Til    THE    MEXICANS. 

The  stormy  debate  in  Congress  on  the  subject  of  the  English  debt^ 
immediately  preceding  his  retirement,  will  never  be  forgotten  ;  when 
Salvator  Diaz  y  Miron — only  twenty-six  )'ears  old — turned  the  tide 
of  politics  in  the'  National  Assembly,  and  aroused  the  people  to  a 
sense  of  the  wrong  and  injustice  to  which  they  were  called  to  submit. 
The  students  from  the  various  colleges  who  had  never  before  taken 
a  part  in  politics,  gatliered  into  the  Theatre  Iturbide,  and,  hearing 
his  burning  words  of  eloquence,  were  enthused  with  the  same  spirit 
and  patriotic  zeal.  This  inaugurated  a  new  departure  in  the  politics 
of  the  country,  and  henceforth  the  brave  and  gallant  youths  of  the 
Mexican  republic  were  to  become  a  power  in  the  land,  and  eventually 
prove  her  lasting  regeneration  and  redemption. 

On  the  first  da)'  of  December,  1884,  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, with  severe  republican  simplicity,  General  Diaz  was  again  in- 
stalled- as  chief  executive.  The  treasury  was  empty,  the  national 
credit  at  its  lowest  ebb,  and  the  whole  country  groaning  under 
the  burden  of  her  difficulties.  But  President  Diaz  was  fully  equal 
to  the  requirements  of  the  situation,  and,  with  the  full  confidence  of 
the  people,  he  again  set  himself  to  the  task  of  repairing  the  injured 
ship  of  state,  and  setting  her  afloat  in  smooth  waters. 

Although  beset  by  so  many  obstacles,  he  has  proved  his  supe- 
•  rior  judgment  and  intelligence,  and  his  thorough  knowledge  of 
the  wants  of  his  countr}-.  In  this  second  administration  she  has 
progressed  slowly,  but  steadily,  in  all  that  constitutes  a  nation's 
prosperity.  Public  education  has  received  a  stimulus  before  un- 
known, the  arts  and  sciences  are  nurtured,  business  enterprises  en- 
couraged, and  peace  reigns  within  the  borders  of  the  republic. 
Knowing  the  importance  of  cultivating  international  good-will,  the 
President  is  doing  all  in  his  power  to  encourage  American  enterprise 
and  to  insure  the  safety  of  life  and  property. 

General  Diaz  is  a  man  of  the  highest  appreciation  of  those  who 
have  in  any  way  served  him  during  his  many  perilous  adventures. 
One  of  the  most  thrilling  of  these  occurred  after  the  disastrous  battle 
of  Incamole,    in  the  State   of    Tamaulipas,  in    1877,  when  the  forces 


ACVOA'S  Ai\D   EVENTS  EV  MEXICAN  HISTORY.  369 

of  General  Diaz  were  utterly  routed,  and  he  was  flcciny  before  the 
enemy.  He  made  his  way  throu<jh  Texas  to  New  Orleans,  but  as 
his  followers  were  badly  demoralized,  it  was  evident  that  without  his 
encouraging  presence  the  cause  of  the  insurgents  was  lost.  Disguising 
himself  in  a  slouch  hat,  pulled  down  close  over  his  eyes,  blue  goggles 
and  a  white  beard,  he  embarked  on  a  vessel  bound  for  Vera  Cruz. 
He  appeared  to  be  a  respectable  gentleman,  with  weak  eyes  and  a  re- 
markable rotundity  of  figure.  He  registered  as  Dr.. Rodriguez,  and  at 
once  retired  to  his  state-room,  where  he  was  confined  by  incessant  sea- 
sickness. His  identity  was  unsuspected  by  any,  with  the  exception  of 
one  of  the  lady  passengers,  the  wife  of  a  Mexican  revolutionist. 

At  the  port  of  Tampico  a  regiment  of  Mexican  government 
soldiers  came  on  board  to  take  passage  for  Vera  Cruz.  General 
Diaz,  fearing  discovery,  doffed  his  disguise,  and,  taking  a  life- 
preserver,  plunged  naked  into  the  water,  hoping  to  swim  to  the 
shore,  ten  miles  distant.  The  captain,  supposing  him  a  lunatic,  sent 
a  boat  after  him,  when  his  suspicions  of  the  swimmer's  insanity  were 
confirmed  by  his  resisting  their  attempts  at  rescue.  He  was,  however, 
hauled  into  the  boat  and  brought  back  to  the  ship.  The  boat  had 
hardly  touched  the  gang-plank,  when  the  aforesaid  lady  rushed  for- 
ward with  a  large  sheet  and  enveloped  the  rescued  man.  Thus  con- 
cealed from  obser\'ation,  he  was  brought  on  board  and  given  in  charge 
of  the  purser  of  the  vessel,  Mr.  A.  K.  Coney.  To  him  Diaz  revealed 
himself,  and  begged  for  protection,  which  the  purser  promised  to  give. 
The-colonel  of  the  regiment,  suspecting  his  presence  on  board,  and 
also  the  purser's  cognizance  of  the  same,  offered  the  latter,  in  Diaz's 
hearing,  $50,000  for  information  of  the  insurgent.  In  the  president's 
words,  his  heart  sank  when  he  heard  the  tempting  bribe,  quickly  to 
beat,  however,  with  admiration  and  gratitude  at  the  rejoinder  of  the 
noble  young  American,  "  I  know  nothing  of  Diaz." 

On  the  arrival  of  the  vessel  at  Vera  Cruz,  he  was  smuggled  off  un- 
der the  guise  of  a  lighterman  by  the  faithful  purser.  After  many 
other  adventures,  and  when  the  fortunes  of  war  had  placed  the  refugee 
at  the  head   of  the  republic,  one  of  his   first  official   acts  was  the  ap- 


370  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

pointment  of  Mr.  Coney  as  consul  to  Navarre  in  France,  afterwards  to 
Paris  as  consul-general,  and  later  as  consul  to  the  port  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

President  Diaz  has  been  twice  married,  his  present  wife  being  Car- 
men Rubio,  the  lovely  daughter  of  the  Hon.  Romero  Rubio,  Secretary 
of  the  Interior.  Madame  Diaz  is  now  only  twenty-four  years  of  age; 
her  figure  is  lithe,  willowy  and  petite;  her  beauty  rather  of  the  Moor- 
ish type,  her  complexion  delicately  pink,  like  a  sea-shell ;  eyes  large 
and  luminous,  with  a  wealth  of  raven-black  hair  peculiar  to  the  women 
of  her  country.  She  is  extremely  graceful  and  cordial  in  her  manners, 
and  bears  with  remarkable  composure  the  honors  showered  on  her  as 
first  lady  in  the  Aztec  country  and  mistress  of  the  Mexican  "  White 
House."  In  her  dress  she  is  fully  up  to  the  European  standard, 
and,  her  toilets  being  ordered  direct  from  Worth,  she  enhances  her 
beauty  with  rich  fabrics  and  warm  hues.  In  addition  to  her  personal 
charms,  she  adds  the  accomplishment  of  being  a  linguist  of  a  high  order, 
speaking  English  and  several  other  languages  with  equal  fluency. 

There  are  no  "  White  House  receptions,"  nor  general  social  demon- 
strations, such  as  we  know  at  our  own  capital.  There  is  no  contest 
for  precedence  between  the  wives  of  members  of  the  cabinet  and 
diplomatic  corps,  and  perhaps  the  peace  of  the  country  is  none  the 
worse  for  that. 

Never  before,  perhaps,  have  two  as  youthful,  beautiful  and  noble 
women  occupied  their  respective  exalted  positions  as  Carmen  Romero 
Rubio  de  Diaz  and  Frances  Folsom  Cleveland.  They  are  near  the  ..same 
age,  each  the  pet  and  idol  of  her  respective  people.  In  Me.xican 
homage  and  courtesy  Madame  Diaz,  by  common  consent,  is  called 
"  Carmelita  "  throughout  her  realm — a  pet  name  her  people  have  given 
her  expressive  of  their  love  and  tenderness. 

I  recall  with  much  satisfaction  my  acquaintance  with  President  and 
Madame  Diaz,  and  the  gracious  courtesy  and  hospitality  with  which  I 
was  welcomed  in  their  home.  The  last  personal  reminder  of  this  dis- 
tinguished pair  was  received  on  the  eve  of  my  departure  from  the 
capital,  when  President  Diaz  at  my  request   inclosed  the   photographs 


ACTORS  A.YD   EVENTS   JX  MEXICAX  IIISIORY.  3/3 

of  himself   and  -wife,  and,   in  the  autograph  letter,  as  seen   in   front  of 
book,  bade  me  God-speed  on  my  homeward  journey. 

President  Diaz  is  one  of  the  most  dignified  public  men  to  be  seen  in 
any  country.  He  is  now  about  fifty-five  years  of  age,  of  medium 
size,  and  of  erect,  strikingly  military  bearing.  He  has  a  rich  olive 
complexion,  grayish  hair,  and  dark,  expressive  eyes,  which  in  repose 
are  peculiarh'  thoughtful  and  pathetic,  but  which  light  up  in  speak- 
ing, and  must  have  flaslied  with  electric  fire  in  battle.  His  face  is 
martial,  even  heroic,  and  his  whole  bearing  expresses  strength  and 
confidence  in  himself  and  in  his  people.  His  manners  are  most 
polished  and  genial,  and  his  conversational  gifts  exceptionally  fine, 
indicating  kindliness  and  rood  feeling  and  a  strong  personal  magnet- 
ism. He  is  a  patriot  of  the  purest  order,  a  statesman,  an  honest  man, 
and  on  the  Western  continent  to-day  there  is  not  a  more  brilliant 
military  genius. 
24 


CHAPTER   XI. 

A   GLANCP:    at    MEXICAN    LITERATURE. 


/^: '!!  ir{  Cr    fy     i       tive  Mexica 
!:''ULOlk;fT#li     down   to   us 


*:>HE  little  that  survives  of  primi- 
'  an  literature  comes 


from  a  period  of 
\^  barbarism,  which,  though 
clothed  in  external  and  mate- 
rial splendor,  was  destitute  of 
intellectual  culture  and  moral 
enlightenment. 

It  is  hard  to  believe  that  the 
noble  and  poetic  verses  of  Net- 
zahualcoyotl,  the  most  noted 
of  early  jMexican  writers,  had 
their  birth  and  growth  in  the 
rhidst  of  such  an  environment. 
This  fact,  however,  but  serves  to  emphasize  another  fact  which  the 
modern  writers  of  Mexico  so  brilliantly  sustain,  which  is,  that  the 
literary  and  poetic  faculty  is  inherent  in  the  Mexican  race.  And  from 
those  early  days  down  to  the  present  time  wc  see  the  unusual  triple 
combination  of  soldier,  statesman,  and  writer.  This  statement  re- 
ceives its  verification  by  a  glance  downward  from  the  fifteenth  cen- 
tury, when  Netzahualcoyotl  was  the  poet-chief  of  Texcoco,  through  a 
long  list  of  warrior-authors  to  the  brave  and  accomplished  Guillermo 
Prieto,  who  has  nobl)'  served  his  country  by  both  sword  and  pen. 

The   twelve   I'ranciscan  friars  sent  over  after  the  conquest  by  the 
General  of  the  Order,  were   men  of  jirofound    learning,  and   may  be 


A    GLA.VCE    AT  MEXICAN  LirERATURE. 


375 


called  the  pioneers  of  Mexican  literature.  They  attempted  and 
accomplished  one  of  the  most  stupendous  undertakings  ever  con- 
ceived by  the  most  enthusiastic  philanthropist.  They  had  not  only 
to  learn  the  language  of  the  Indians  to  whom  they  came  to  preach, 
but  to  master,  also,  a  great  variety  of  dialects.  This  done,  they 
formed  of  these  vocabularies  and  grammars,  leaving  an  invaluable 
heritage  to  their  successors  in  this  field  of  labor.  By  their  patience 
and  devotion  they  humanized  a  savage  peo[)le  aiul  christianized  a 
pagan  nation. 

Cortez  compelled  the  natives  to  yield  to  him  by  force  of  arms,  but 
his  work  was  but  the  beginning  of  their  subjugation  ;  the  friars  com- 
pleted the  conquest  by  the  milder  but  more  potent  agency  of  religion. 

It  has  been  related  of  one  of  these  good  brothers,  Toribio  Bena- 
vente,  that  coming  one  day  to  the  town  of  Tlaxcala,  and  being  un- 
able to  preach  to  the  people  because  of  his  ignorance  of  their  language, 
he  pointed  t<j  the  heavens,  thus  signifying  his  holy  mission.  The 
Indians  were  struck  with  the  contrast  between  the  humble  dress  of 
the  friar  and  the  gayly  bedecked  Spanish  soldiers,  and  spoke  of  him 
pityingly  as  ''  niotolinia."  The  good  father,  inquiring  the  meaning  of 
the  word,  was  told  that  it  n.icant  a  poor  person.  "  Then,"  said  the 
friar,  "  this  shall  henceforth  be  my  name." 
From  that  day  he  signed  himself  Moto- 
linia,  and  was  ever  after  known  by  that 
name. 

The  life  of  Father  Bernardino  de 
Sahagun  affords  a  noble  exemplifica- 
tion of  the  spirit  of  Christianity.  With 
the  exception  of  thirty  years  spent  in  / 
his  native  Spain,  his  whole  life  was  'A 
passed  entirely  among  the  Indians.  For 
sixty-one  years  did  he  labor  for  their 
advancement  and  education.  He  was 
not  a  fanatic,  seeking  to  convert  b}-  fire 
and  sword,   but    the  loving  and  patient  rernardwo  de  sahagun. 


37^  FACE    10    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

teacher.  He  wrote  theological,  educational,  and  lastorical  works. 
The  most  noted  among  the  latter  is  his  General  History  of  the  Affairs 
of  New  Spain.  He  died  in  1590,  at  the  advanced  age  of  ninety- 
one. 

In  his  last  illness  he  was  removed  to  a  hospital,  but  insisted  on 
being  taken  back  to  the  Indians,  that  he  might  breathe  his  last  among 
the  people  he  loved  so  well. 

Bernal  Diaz  del  Castillo,  a  companion  of  Cortez,  wrote,  fifty 
years  after  the  conquest.  The  True  History  of  the  Events  of  the  Con- 
quest of  New  Spain.  The  name  of  this  work  is  a  correct  exponent  of 
its  nature,  for  it  is  conceded  by  all  who  have  seen  it  to  be  a  faithful 
record  of  scenes  and  events  by  an  eye-witness.  No  better  history  of 
the  country  and  the  times  it  deals  with  could  be  placed  in  the  hands 
of  our  own  school  children.  Its  simple,  charming  narrative  style 
would  render  it  extremely  attractive  to  the  j'oung.  Its  reproduction 
in  our  language  would  be  an  undertaking  well  worthy  of  some  of  cur 
enterprising  school-book  publishers. 

Of  the  famous  Bishop  of  Chiapas,  Father  Las  Casas,  much  has  been 
written.  His  two  historical  works  were  for  a  long  time  condemned 
to  oblivion,  but  have  been  lately  revived.  He  was  a  true  friend  to 
the  Indians,  and  did  all  in  his  power  to  protect  them  from  the  cruelty 
of  their  conquerors.  His  defense  of  the  Aztecs  is  the  subject  of 
Para's  great  painting. 

Father  Olmos  was  one  of  the  earliest  writers.  Arriving  in  1524, 
four  years  after  the  conquest,  he  was  one  of  the  first  who  made  a 
grammar  of  the  Mexican  tongue.  He  also  wrote  several  other  works, 
most,  if  not  all,  of  which  are  lost  to  us.  The  manuscript  of  his  gram- 
mar lay  for  a  long  time  in  the  Paris  library,  and  was  at  length  pub- 
lished in  1875. 

Under  the  name  of  the  manuscript  of  Zumarraga,  two  important 
chronicles  were  written  at  the  request  of  Don  Juan  Cano,  the  son-in- 
law  of  Montezuma,  for  the  purpose  of  eulogizing  that  monarch  so  tiiat 
the  King  of  Spain  might  return  to  Dofia  Izabel  (the  wife  of  Don  Juan) 
the  birthright  of  which  she  had  been  dispossessed. 


A    Gr.AXCF.    AT  MEXICAN   LITEKATUKE.  2)77 

Mufioz  Camargo  was  an  Indian  chronicler  whose  principal  work  is 
the  }Iistory  of  Tlaxcala,  which,  though  \oqa\  in  name,  is  very  general 
in  its  information. 

Oviedo  was  the  first  chronicler  of  the  New  World.  He  wrote  tlic 
General  and  Natural  History  of  the  Indians,  in  fift)-  books,  of  which 
the  first  nineteen  were  published  in  1535,  and  were  agahi  printed  in 
1547,  and  afterward  appeared  translated  into  other  languages. 

IxtHlxochitl  was  the  original  chronicler  of  the  Texcuxanas,  and 
few  writers  enjoy  his  fame  and  reputation.  He  became  an  author  so 
as  to  study  the  interpretation  of  the  ancient  paintings.  In  his  closing 
years  he  ofTiciated  as  court  interpreter  to  the  Indians;  he  died  about 
the  year  1648. 

Friar  Aiigustin  de  Vctancourt,  of  tlie  Franciscan  Order,  contributed 
many  valuable  works  and  treatises  on  Mexico  and  the  affairs  of  his 
day  and  time. 

Carlos  de  Sigiienza  was  one  of  the  most  erudite  students  of  his  pe- 
riod, and  a  native  Mexican.  He  made  an  earnest  study  of  the  tradi- 
tions of  the  early  Mexicans,  especiall)'  those  that  bore  traces  of 
Biblical  origin  or  intimations  of  Christianity.  He  died  a  learned  man, 
and  his  works  are  a  high  literary  authority. 

The  valuable  researches  and  records  of  these  historians  could  never 
have  been  made  but  for  the  work  of  their  predecessors,  who  rendered 
inestimable  service  to  history  by  recording  facts  gleaned  from  the 
"wise  men"  who  had  formed  the  councils  of  the  deposed  Indian 
monarchs,  and  from  the  chiefs  able  to  interpret  the  "  picture  writings  " 
which  then  formed  the  national  records  and  literature. 

After  a  period  of  prostration  the  revival  of  letters  began  in  Mexico 
toward  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century.  The  impetus  was  inau- 
gurated by  Clavigero,  Veytia,  and  Guma,  noted  historians,  and  Boturini, 
a  great  collector  of  hieroglyphics  and  manuscripts. 

The  next    period  was  distinguished    by  the  advent    of  such    lumi 
naries  as  Quintana  Roo,  Ortega,  Galvan,  and  Jose  Joaquin  Fernandez, 
who  rose  upon    the  literary    horizon    amid    the  storms  of   civil  dissen- 
sions. 


378 


FACE    TO   FACE    ]V/T1I    THE   MhXJCANS. 


V 


This  brings  us  down  to  tiie  present  time — that  of  our  own  contempo- 
raries, whose  productions  are 
actually  better  known  and 
appreciated     in     Europe     than 

by  their    American    neighbors. 

*  *  ■;<■  * 

Like  New  York,  the  F"ed- 
eral  Capital  of  Mexico  is  the 
center  towards  which  all  the 
genius  of  the  provinces, 
whether  literary,  artistic,  or 
scientific,       gravitates.  For 

there,  as  in  the   metropolis  of 
the    United  States,    all    brain- 

LAS   CASAS.  ,  .  , 

workers  expect  to  gam,  at  least, 
appreciation,   while    many    hope    to    win    renown. 

The  principal  cities  of  Mexico,  such  as  Toluca,  Morelia,  Guadala- 
jara, Guanajuato,  Puebla,  Merida,  and  many  others  of  like  size,  have 
their  literary  associations,  but  /:/  Licco  Hidalgo,  at  the  capital,  ranks 
highest  ;  and  is,  in  fact,  intended  as  a  National  Institute.  It  was 
established  on  the  15th  of  September,  1849,  ^""^  has  known  many 
vicissitudes  during  this  time,  but  of  late  years  it  has  renewed  the 
original  designs  of  its  founders. 

On  each  recurring  Monday  evening  the  society  meets  at  its  hand- 
some hall,  and  it  is  then  the  brilliant  genius  and  flowing  wit  of  the 
members  may  be  fully  enjoyed.  Scientific  essays  and  literary  pro- 
ductions are  read  before  this  Lyceum,  and  nothing  that  is  unsound, 
unscientific  or  weakly  sentimental,  can  escape  the  censorship  and  rigid 
criticism  of  such  able  men  as  Riva  Palacio,  Ignacio  Altimirano,  Vigil 
Pimentil,  Juan  de  Dias  Pcza,  Juan  Mateos,  Ramon  Manterola,  Ireano 
Paz,  Francisco  Sosa,  and  others. 

The  meetings  arc  well  attended  and  appreciated,  not  only  by  the 
cultured  part  of  society,  but  also  by  many  of  the  plainer  and  less 
educated   of  the    population.      Not    infrequently  bevies   of  ambitious 


W^M^it, 


.-/    GLAXCE  A  r  MEXICAN  LITKRA'rURE.  381 

college  bo)'s  arc  numbered  among  the  most  attentive  listeners  to  all 
discussions  and  tlebates  giving  expression  t^o  tlieir  enthusiasm  in 
rounds  of  applause.  But  the  pleasure  of  these  reunions  is  greatl)'  di- 
minished to  tlic  stranger  who  finds  Himself  seated  so  as  to  look  at 
the  guests  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  room,  and  the  only  view  he 
has  cf  the  speaker  is  obtained  by  twisting  his  neck  and  looking  in 
a  sidewise  direction.  However,  the  aim  of  the  society  is  of  a  pure 
.-.nd  loft}'  nature,  its  sole  ambition  being  the  encouragement  and 
development  of  native  talent,  and  right  royall}'  is  it  succeeding,  so 
tliat  it  matters  little  as  to  how  or  where  one  sits. 

The  name  of  Vicente  Riva  Palacio  occupies  an  exalted  place  in  the 
history  of  his  countr)-.  It  would  seem,  therefore,  an  act  of  injustice  to 
place  him  only  among  the  writers,  when  he  has  played  so  grand  a 
part  among  tlie  gallant  heroes  in  '' grun-visaged  war."  For,  from  the 
age  of  twenty-three  to  the  present  time,  he  has  filled  almost  every 
place  of  honor  that  could  bo  bestowed  upon  him  by  his  people.  A 
man  of  brilliant  genius  and  liberal  ideas,  he  enjoys  the  reputation  of 
being  the  most  humorous  and  versatile  of  Mexican  writers.  It  is 
somewhat  surprising  that,  although  by  profession  a  lawyer,  we  yet 
find  him,  also,  a  statesman,  a  leading  politician,  a  soldier,  a  poet,  a 
journalist  and  dramatist,  and  in  each  position  he  has  reached  high 
distinction. 

As  a  politician,  he  has  filled  acceptably  not  only  the  office  of 
Governor  of  several  States,  but  has  also  been  Justice  of  the  Supreme 
Court  and  Cabinet  Minister.  From  1870  to  1879  he  was  Minister  of 
Fomcnto  (public  works,  commerce,  industry  and  colonization),  during 
which  time  he  used  signal  efforts  for  the  development  of  the  country 
in  the  extension  of  railways  and  telegraph  lines,  the  improvement  of 
public  buildings  and  roads.  Like  others  of  his  countrymen,  he  has 
suffered  imprisonment,  but  his  confinement  was  cheered  b\-  the 
muses,  and  some  of  the  sweetest  poems  he  ever  penned  was  when 
behind  the  prison  bars. 

As  a  writer,  his  works  are  not  only  extremely  popular  in  his  native 
land,  but  throughout  the  whole  of  Spanish  America.     By  request  of  the 


3^2  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    fJ/E   MEX/CA.\S. 

Federal  Government,  he  edited  the  national  history  entitled  '^Mexico 
a  travers  de  los  Siglos"  ("  Mexico  Viewed  through  the  Course  of  Ages  "). 
Among  the  most  popular  of  his  novels  is  that  of  The  Hill  of  Las 
Catnpafias,  which  is  a  thrilling  and  faithful  account  of  the  last  days 
and  execution  of  Maximilian. 

At  this  time  Riva  Palacio  is  enjoying  the  honor  of  Envoy  Extra- 
ordinary and  Minister  Plenipotentiary  from  Mexico  to  the  court  of 
the  noble  Queen  Christina  of  Spain.  As  his  time  is  not  fully  absorbed 
in  his  diplomatic  duties,  he  is  now  writing  a  historical  brochure,  and 
will  also  soon  publish  a  volume  of  Mexican  legends  in  verse. 

General  Palacio's  magnificent  mansion  is  the  grand  center  and 
rallying  point  of  all  toilers  after  lore,  and  it  is  there  his  courtly 
hospitality  shines  resplendent,  dispensed  with  equal  impartiality  to 
all,  whether  they  be  distinguished  and  acknowledged  in  the  world  of 
letters  or  only  humble  aspirants  for  fame.  They  here  meet  together, 
3.  common  brotherhood,  and  among  them  all  the  host  is  himself  the 
most  brilliant  and  witty. 

An  entertainment,  probably  not  excelled  intellectually  and  socially 
by  any  given  in  a  private  house  during  the  winter,  was  the  Velada 
Literarla  {Musical  and  Literary  Reunion),  given  by  General  Palacio  on 
the  first  night  of  the  New  Year,  and  of  which  he  had  previously  given 
me  a  hint. 

The  house  throughout  was  a  grand  scenic  illumination,  of  which 
the  center  was  the  sala  grande,  with  its  brilliant  assemblage  of 
elegantly  dressed  people.  Diamonds  shimmered  and  flashed,  adding 
to  beauty  which  might  be  sufficient  of  itself,  the  charm  that  jewels 
and  the  accessories  of  wealth  can  give,  and  lighting  up  the  faultless 
Parisian  toilets. 

Several  ladies  were  present  whose  jewels  summed  up  from  $100,000 
to  almost  double  that  amount. 

An  unusual  feature  was  the  reading  of  a  beautiful  poem  by  Seflora 
de  Flaquer,  the  editress  of  El  Album  de  la  Mujer — the  only  paper 
at  the  capital  edited  by  a  woman  and  devoted  to  the  interests  of 
women. 


-■/    GLANCE   AT  MEXICAN  LITERATURE. 


383 


All    the    leading  writers   of   the  city  were   present,  and   each  one 
read  an  original    poem  written  specially  for  the  occasion.    With  some- 
thing of  the  enthusiasm   of  the  time,   I   recall   a   charming  poem   by 
Juan   de  Dios  Peza.     His  rich,  soft  voice  is  wonderfully  effective  ;  its 
sonorous   intonation   and   smooth    inflections,  added    to    the  eloquent 
gestures    of    the 
reader,      carried 
his  hearers  along 
with   rapturous 
enjoyment. 

But  Altimi- 
rano,  Francisco 
Sosa,  Juan  Ma- 
teos,  and  others, 
as  they  stepped 
before  the  audi- 
•ence  with  digni- 
fied and  graceful 
bearing,  received 
an  equallyhearty 
greeting. 

Our  distin- 
g  u  i  s  h  e  d  host 
read  a  poem  full 
of  dramatic  ef- 
fect, based  upon  /  ,- 
the  tales   of  the 


pirates     of      the 

Gulf.  A  most  weird  and  peculiar  effect  was  added  to  this  reading 
by  a  piano  accompaniment  composed  and  dedicated  to  the  author 
by  a  senorita,  a  musician  of  great  celebrity.  The  voice  of  the  reader 
and  the  tones  of  the  piano  flowing  in  admirable  accord,  now  moved 
the  audience  to  tender  sympathy,  again  aroused  soul-thrilling  emo- 
tions or  blood-curdling  horror  at  the  will  of  poet  and  musician. 


384  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

Among  the  many  brilliant  renderings  of  musical  compositions,  was. 
the  remarkable  performance  on  the  violin  of  two  boys  of  twelve  and 
thirteen  years.  Without  book  or  break  they  played  throughout  the 
music  of  //  Trovatorc  with  marvelous  tcclinicjue  and  admirable  ex- 
pression. 

The  exercises  of  the  evening  closed  with  a  superb  banquet  given 
in  the  coniedor  grandc.  The  flow  of  wine  was  only  equaled  by  that 
of  wit.  The  Mexicans  seldom  indulge  to  intoxication  ;  their  frequent 
potations  "cheer  but  nut  inebriate" — only  add  brilliancy  to  their  con- 
versation without  clouding  the  intellect. 

In  ail  that  elegant  assemblage  I  was  the  only  American  guest  pres- 
ent, of  which  distincticn  I  was  justly  proud,  and  endeavored  to  wear 
with  becoming  dignity  the  honor  of  being  the  sole  representative  of 
our  great  nation. 

My  embryo  book  was  made  the  subject  of  many  kind  toasts  drank 
to  its  success,  and  the  hope  was  expressed  that  its  effort  toward  bring- 
ing in  friendly  contact  the  two  nations,  would  be  appreciated  by  my 
own  people. 

One  of  the  most  erudite  and  brilliant  of  the  literati  in  Mexico  is 
Ignacio  Altimirano,  who  is  also  an  eminent  jurist,  and  was  at  one 
period  a  judge  of  the  supreme  court.  Altimirano  is' a  corresponding 
member  of  the  Spanish  Institute,  also  of  several  literary  societies  in 
France,  England,  and  Germany. 

He  is  a  pure  descendant  of  one  of  the  Indian  races.  He  won  the 
prize  in  his  municipality  in  Oa.xaca,  and  his  education  was  completed  at 
the  "  Instituto  Literario  "  at  Toluca.  On  going  there,  some  one  observ- 
ing his  marked  Indian  parentage,  laid  his  hand  kindly  on  his  head  and 
said  :  "  Nothing  will  ever  come  from  this  brain."  The  utter  fallacy  of 
the  prophecy  is  too  well  known,  both  in  this  country  and  in  Europe. 

The  most  popular  poet  in  the  republic  is  the  venerable  Guillermo 
Prieto,  who  may  justly  be  styled  "  the  Mexican  Beranger."  He  has 
also  been  called  the  Robert  Burns  of  the  republic,  and,  like  the 
.Scottish  poet,  he  sings  the  songs  of  the  people.  Identifying  himself 
with  them  in  feeling,  he  is  able  to  express  their  every  emotion,  and  in 


A    GLA.VC/i    AT  MEXICAX    LITERATURE.  385 

their  own  tonyjuc.  Not  even  the  despised  hpcros  are  neglected,  but 
witli  that  exquisite  "touch  of  nature"  that  he  possesses,  he  finds 
and  acknowledges  kinship  with  these  degraded  pariahs.  Guillermo 
Prieto  is  not  merely  a  poet ;  he  has  served  his  country  on  many  battle- 
iields,  and  was  the  chief  counselor  of  Benito  Juarez  during  the  most 
perilous  days  of  Mexico's  national  existence. 

Prieto's  Rouianccro  Nacioiial,  published  about  a  year  ago,  is  a  col- 
lection of  historical  incidents  related  in  verse,  and  is  so  highly  appre- 
ciated that  the  Federal  Government  has  ordered  it  to  be  used  in  all 
the  national  colleges. 

Even  now,  at  the  advanced  age  of  eighty-one  years,  Senor  Prieto 
holds  the  position  of  Professor  of  Ancient  and  Modern  Historj-  in  the 
Military  College  at  Chapultepec,  and  has  not  only  compiled  a  history 
of  Mexico,  for  the  cadets,  but  has  written  an  excellent  work  on  politi- 
cal economy  for  the  instruction  of  his  pupils. 

"The  Mexican  Longfellow"  is  Juan  dc  Dios  Peza,  whose  exquisite 
poems  are  best  appreciated  by  the  aristocratic  and  cultivated  classes. 
Seflor  Peza  has  now  in  press  a  volume  of  Indian  traditions. 

The  distinguished  philologist,  Don  Francisco  Pimentel,  is  also  a 
litcratcur,  but,  with  a  noble  and  holy  object,  has  devoted  the  greater 
part  of  his  life  to  the  study  of  the  native  Mexican  languages,  and 
now  speaks  twelve  of  the  Indian  dialects.  SeiTor  Pimentel  has  greatly 
encouraged  the  study  of  the  Nahuatl  and  Ottomie  languages  in  the 
Government  School  of  Agriculture,  because  he  fully  coincides  in  the 
opinion  of  the  great  educator  and  philanthropist,  Senor  Herrera,  who 
maintains  that  the  only  way  to  elevate  the  Indian  races  is  to  learn 
their  native  dialects  and  then  go  to  Xhc'w pueblos,  or  tribal  settlements, 
to  instruct  them  in  those  matters  most  essential  to  their  mental 
and  moral  development.  Senor  Pimentel  is  a  member  of  various 
scientific  and  literary  societies  in  France,  Germany,  and  the  United 
States. 

Alfredo  Chavero,  although  more  generally  known  in  Europe  and  in 
this  country  as  an  archaeologist,  is  not  only  a  literary  man  but  an  emi- 
nent lawyer,  and  is  to-day  president  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies.     Mis 


386  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

quota  of  that  invaluable  history  called  Mexico  a  travcrs  dc  ios  Siglos 
has  just  been   published. 

Scfior  Chavero  has  written  numerous  dramas  and  zarr:uclas,  several 
of  which  have  been  enthusiasticall}'  applauded  in  Cuba  and  the  prin- 
cipal cities  of   Mexico. 

•  Chavero's  most  important  work,  entitled  A  Study  of  the  Aztec  Cal- 
endar Stone,  has  created  quite  a  sensation  among  archaeologists.  He 
maintains  that  this  relic  was  an  altar  dedicatetl  to  the  "Sun  God." 

The  talents  of  Mariano  Bdrcena  are  so  varied  that  he  may  justly 
be  called  the  Crichton  of  Mexico.  He  had  accomplished  at  the  early 
age  of  thirty-nine  a  vast  work  in  the  study  and  application  of  various 
arts  and  sciences. 

Senor  Bdrcena  has  acquired  a  brilliant  reputation  as  a  botanist  and 
mineralogist.  He  has  also  had  charge  of  the  national  observatory  for 
several  years;  nevertheless  he  has  always  found  time  for  the  composi- 
tion of  poetry  and  music,  and  has  long  been  a  corresponding  member 
of  several  scientific  associations  in  Europe  and  the  United  States. 

Since  the  decease  of  Barreda  and  Ramirez,  who  by  common  con- 
sent were  the  leaders  of  the  new  "  Schools  of  Philosophy,"  the  fore- 
most philosophers  in  Mexico  are  Parra  and  Ramon  Manterola.  The 
former  is  a  positivist,  very  austere  in  manner  and  inclined  to  be  a 
recluse,  while  Manterola — an  ardent  searcher  for  truth,  devoting  the 
best  years  of  his  life  to  the  study  of  mental  and  moral  philosophy — 
aims  at  introducing  practical  reforms  which  will  speedily  ameliorate 
the  condition  of  his  people.  Sefior  Manterola,  as  one  of  the  editors 
of  El  Econoiuista,  has  made  valuable  suggestions  which  the  Federal 
Government  adopted,  thus  paving  the  way  for  the  recent  abolition  of 
the  "  Alcabalas,"  or  Inter-State  Customs.  During  his  leisure  hours 
.Sefior  Manterola  has  written  some  dramas,  which  have  been  well 
received  in  Mexico ;  and  it  is  even  whispered  that  one  of  these 
dramas  is  to  be  translated  for  the  American  stage. 

As  a  savant,  a  litcrateur  and  moral  reformer,  few  Mexicans  have 
surpassed  Padre  Carrillu.  a  native  of  Yucatan.  Padre  Carrillo  has 
devoted    many  years  to  the  stud)-  of  philology,  is  a  member  of  the 


A    GLANCE    AT   MEXICAN    LITEKAIURE.  387 

Ethnological  Society  of  New  York,  and  a  corresponding  member  nf 
the  Imperial  Academy  of  Berlin,  and  of  the  Spanish  Institute. 

The  journalists  now  residing  in  the  Federal  capital  are  so  numer- 
ous that  it  will  not,  in  this  limited  space,  be  possible  to  mention  more 
than  a  few  of  the  most  brilliant  and  useful  writers — such  as  Jos6 
Maria  Vigil,  Ireano  Paz,  Arroyo  dc  Anda,  Francisco  de  Sosa,  who  is 
also  a  poet,  a  historian,  and  the  biographer  of  man)'  distinguished 
Mexicans;  Enrique  Chavarri,  best  known  by  his  )tom  dc  pluvie 
"  Juvenal ;"  Cassasus,  whose  excellent  translation  of  Longfellow's 
Evangeline  received  the  approval  of  El  Licco  Hidalgo  ;  Garcia,  editor 
of  El  Monitor  Rcpublicano  :  young  Lombardo,  who,  in  his  Impressions 
During  a  Tour  of  flic  United  States,  makes  a  very  just  appreciation  of 
our  country;  Alberto  Bianchi,  the  author  of  a  work  on  the  United 
States;  Juan  Mateos,  a  publicist,  poet,  and  novelist,  whose  Buc- 
caneers of  the  Gulf  while  historically  true,  is  a  wonderful  piece  of 
word-painting;  Bernabe  Bravo,  a  facile  and  agreeable  writer ;  the 
"  Duque  Job,"  whose  real  name  we  have  forgotten  ;  and  Justo  Sierra, 
who  has  won  many  laurels  as  a  poet,  and  is  the  author  of  a  history  of 
Mexico  that  is  considered  a  reliable  text-book. 

An  entire  volume  might  be  devoted  to  the  poets  of  Mexico,  most 
of  them  rarely  gifted  men.  The  poems  of  Manuel  Flores,  entitled 
Pasionarias,  equal  some  of  the  best  productions  of  Byron.  Jos6  Maria 
Ramirez,  a  popular  poet  during  the  second  empire,  edited  La  America 
Litcraria,  La  Tarantula,  and  contributed  to  other  journals.  Later  in 
life  Ramirez  professed  atheism,  and  styled  himself  a  philosopher. 

Jesus  dc  D.  Cuevas  merits  distinction  among  the  poets  of  the  day, 
for  his  aspirations  arc  pure  and  noble.  Senor  Cuevas  has  written 
several  dramas,  two  of  which  have  been  translated  into  English. 

Yucatan,  the  land  of  song  and  romance,  is  justly  proud  of  the  poet 
and  dramatist  Peon  Contreras,  who  now  resides  in  the  Federal  capi- 
tal. Some  of  his  dramas  have  been  performed  in  all  the  large  cities  of 
the  Republic,  and  are  always  well  received. 

Campeachy  is  the  birthplace  and  present  home  of  the  gifted  writer 
Don  Pablo  Araos,  whose  poems  are  not  merely  sentimental,  but  of  a 


3XH  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

mural  and  philosophical  character,  evidently  intended  to  elevate  his 
countrymen. 

Prominent  among  the  literati  of  Yucatan  are  Scnorcs  Castclla- 
nos,  Cisneros,  Aldama,  Sanchez  Marmol,  and  Perez  Pcrrer. 

The  latest  work  of  the  distinguished  archaeologist,  Peflafiel,  giving 
illustrations  and  explanations  of  numerous  Aztec  hieroglyphics,  was 
published  under  the  auspices  of  the  Federal  Government,  and  is  re- 
garded as  a  boon  to  historians. 

I  must  not  omit  to  mention  Sefior  Ignacio  Maiiscal,  Minister  for 
P"oreign  Affairs,  who,  in  addition  to  his  diplomatic  abilities,  has  shown 
marked  literary  talent.  Sharing  the  poetic  gift  common  to  his  coun- 
trymen, he  is  not  only  the  author  of  many  meritorious  works  in  both 
prose  and  poetry,  but  has  also  made  fine  translations  of  Longfellow's 
Evangeline  and  Poe's  Raven. 

Manuel  Acuna  was  an  impassioned  writer  of  great  talent,  and 
among  the  modern  writers  none  have  made  a  stronger  or  more  lasting 
impression.  His  betrothed  becoming  the  wife  of  another  during  his 
prolonged  absence  was  more  than  his  soul  could  bear,  and  he  took  his 
own  life,  which  had  been  rendered  unendurable  by  her  faithlessness. 
His  poem,  A  Kosario,  expresses  the  keenest  pangs  of  disappointment 
mingled  with  undying  love  for  the  faithless  one.  The  closing  verse  is 
eloquent  of  his  utter  wretchedness.  He  says:  "  But  now  that  a  black 
gulf  has  succeeded  the  entrancing  dream — farewell !  Love  of  my  loves, 
light  of  rny  darkness,  perfume  of  all  flowers  that  bloomed  forme  !  my 
poet's  lyre,  my  youth,  farewell !  " 

Mexican  journalists  are  a  bold  and  fearless  set  of  men  and  express 
their  disapprobation  of  any  public  cause  with  but  little  regard  to  con- 
sequences. Therefore  the  best  of  them  may  any  day  find  themselves 
political  prisoners  in  Belem. 

There  arc  but  two  American  newspapers  published  in  Mexico — the 
Tzvo  Republics,  a  daily,  and  the  Mexican  Financier,  a  weekl\-.  The 
first  is  owned  and  edited  by  Mr.  J.  Mastclla  Clarke,  the  latter  is  the 
property  of  Boston  capitalists,  and  ably  edited  by  Messrs.  Levy  and 
Guernsey.     These  gentlemen  are  on  very  harmonious  terms  with  the 


ni:iLI.KI<:'lLi      F'RIETO. 


A    GLANCE  AT  MEXICAN   LITERATURE.  39' 

native  editorial   fraternity,  and  belong,  with   them,   to   the  "  Mexican 
Press  Association." 

The  Mexican  newspaper  reporter  is  not  so  ubiquitous  and  perse- 
vering as  his  American  brother.  I  have  known  of  houses  being  en- 
tered by  lightning-rod  men,  sewing-machine  agents,  and  other  inevi- 
table invaders,  but  an  "  interviewing "  reporter  penetrating  the 
sanctities  of  a  home  is  a  thing  unheard  of.  The  rattle  of  the  family 
skeleton  is  not  a  healthy  subject  for  the  versatile  talents  of  a  knight 
of  the  quill.  The  costtimbres  del  pais,  backed  by  the  powerful  aid  of 
barred  windows  and  heavy  doors,  forbid  all  such  investigations,  and 
he  would  as  soon  think  of  leaping  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  as  daring 
to  break  through  those  Mede-and-Persian  laws  or  storming  those  for- 
bidding portals. 

The  Liceo  Morelos  is  also  an  institution  of  merit.  It  unites  with 
readings,  recitations,  and  scientific  discussions,  amateur  theatricals, 
tableaux  vivants,  and  other  social  features.  The  latter  entertainments 
are  generally  given  in  honor  of  some  of  its  members,  which  include 
the  most  brilliant  men  of  the  capital,  among  them  many  journalists. 
Ladies,  also,  are  numbered  in  its  membership. 

Social  reunions  are  held  in  compliment  to  various  members  of  the 
society,  and  every  eulogistic  speech  relates  to  the  person  thus  distin- 
guished. 

On  the  occasion  of  the  birthday  of  Seiior  Augustin  Arroyo  de 
Anda,  one  of  the  most  prominent  members  of  the  Mexican  Press 
Association,  he.  together  with  his  wife,  was  thus  honored.  A  few  of 
the  compliments  of  the  evening  were  embodied  in  the  following 
flowery  language : 

"The  presence  of  Senora  Arroyo  de  Anda  brings  always  to  my  dreaming  mind 
the  ideal  type  of  (^lOethe — the  beautiful  personation  of  Marguerite  in  the  most  per- 
fect And  inimitable  poem,  Faust." 

Another: 
"  Although  the  modest  violet  hides  its  blue  flowers  among  the  leaves  of  the  plants 


392  FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICAXS. 

surrounding  it,  nevertlieless  its  delicious  perfume  discovers  it  to  those  wlio  pass  near; 
so  j'ou,  if  your  modesty  makes  you  seek  soHtude,  in  exchange,  the  beautiful  perfume 
of  your  virtues  and  qualities  of  lady  and  wife  discover  you  to  those  that  have  the 
pleasure  of  admiring  you." 

"  To  SEf5oR  DE  Anda  : 

"Happy  you,  sir,  that  pass  another  birthday  among  the  thousand  demonstra- 
tions of  affection  that  you  have  been  known  to  conquer  by  your  virtues  and  by  your 
talents.  The  Mexican  Bar  is  rejoiced.  The  society  sees  in  you  one  of  her  chosen 
sons.  The  country  regards  you  a  good  citizen.  Home  proclaims  you  sovereign. 
You  have  the  happiness  of  the  noble  and  l)ea>itiful  and  virtuous  lady  that  united 
with  yours  her  destiny.  What  more  would  you  desire  ?  Nothing  more,  since  you 
are  happy.  And  humanity,  also,  owes  you  much.  You  have  defended  its  sacred 
statutes  in  those  unfortunates  whose  defense  you  liave  made  so  many  times  with 
brilliant  effect." 


At  these  reunions  the  versatiHty  of  talent  of  Mexican  writers  is 
remarkable.  One  of  them  delivers  a  eulogy  in  prose  upon  some 
prominent  person.  The  cnthusiastn  runs  so  high,  knowing  the  genius 
of  the  speaker,  that  he  is  called  upoti,  amid  stortns  of  applause,  to 
transpose  the  speech  into  poetry,  which  is  done  upon  the  spot,  with- 
out a  moment's  preparation.  In  the  theatrical  entertainments,  each 
one  takes  a  part,  and  they  often  play  to  crowded  houses  of 
friends. 

Among  her  women  writers,  Mexico  may  well  be  proud  of  such 
poets  as  Esther  Tapia  de  Castellanos,  Seflora  Castro,  Isabel  Pricto  de 
Landazuri,  Laura  Klinehaus,  Refugio  V.  de  Ortiz,  and  of  such  prose 
writers  as  Seftora  Flaquer,  all  of  whose  productions  are  an  honor  to 
their  sex. 

Seflora  Castro  writes  under  the  name  of  Mariposa  Indiana  (Indian 
Butterfly).  She  is  of  pure  Indian  origin,  which  fact  is  suggested  in  her 
nom  dc  plume.  On  the  eve  of  my  departure  from  the  capital,  I  was 
made  the  recipient  of  the  following  graceful  little  poem,  written  in 
memory  of  our  meeting.  Of  course  it  loses  inuch  in  the  translation, 
but  the  sweet  sentiments  remain  intact.     The  poem  was  accotnpanied 


A    GLAACE   AT  MEXICAX  LITERATURE.  393 

by  pressed  pansics  ("  for  thought  "),  an  invariable  custom  with  the 
Mexicans  ;  also  a  note,  which  I  append  as  characteristic  of  the  people 
as  well  as  of  the  writer's  own   inflividuality : 

Senorita  :  Please  accept  this  little  poem  as  a  slight  appreciation  of  tlie  very 
pleasant  alternoon  we  passed  together  in  Tacubaya,  in  which  you  won  my  regard  and 
affection  by  the  love  you  seem  to  bear  my  country  and  its  people. 
Pray  receive  the  sincere  regard  of  one  who  will  never  forj^et  you. 

IS.   S.   J/., 

A.   IsiDR.A.   DE  Jesus  Castro. 


Adios  to  Fanny  ! 

'  One  afternoon  in  April 
I  winged  my  way  to  see 
A  friend  in  Tacubaya. 
Judge  of  my  agreeable  surprise 
Upon  finding  there  two  beauteous  nymphs — 
Two  flowers  of  America's  soil — 

And  as  I  was  ever  an  enthusiastic  admirer  uf  beauty, 
I  saluted  them  with  pleasure. 
Later  on,  as  the  sun  was  sinking  to  rest. 
Gently  touching  and  tingeing  with  its  golden  radiance 
The  soft  fleecy  clouds. 

One  of  the  nymphs,  as  she  bade  us  farewell. 
Said  she  was  about  returning  to  her  native  land. 
Then  methought  it  were  well 
To  give  the  lovely  peri  a  token. 
And  sent  to  her  this  flower,  called  heart's-ease. 
This  floral  offering  expresses  all 
T  fain  would  tell  her. 

Nymph  of  gentle  presence,  when  far  away. 
Think  of  Mexico,  and  return  some  day. 
And  when  on  the  wings  of  the  breeze 
Thou  sendest  a  message  to  us. 
Always  remember  the  sublime  beauties 
Of  my  idolized  country. 


394  FACE    TO   FACE    II I  Til    THE   MEXICANS. 

Atlios  !  thou  cherished  nymph  ! 
Adios  !  oh  !    lovely  fairy 
Forgive  me  if  I   importune  thee  ; 
But  to-day,  when  thou  homeward  goest, 
Receive  the  fond  farewell  of 
'  La  Mariposa  Indiana.' 


CHAPTER    XII. 


MORE    AEOUT    THE    COMMON    PEOPLE. 


The  Silent  Aztec  Child  of  the  Sun. 


HE  silence   of  dead   ceiiiu- 

ries 
That     lie     entoml)ed 

on  yonder  hills 
Is  his.    These  dream- 
ful poppy  seas 
Wave  on  ;  and  all  their 

languor  fills 
The  land  ;  he  lisis,  as 

if  he  heard 
God    speak   ihrouyh 

some  still  gorgeous 

bird. 


His  babes  about  ;  tlie  golden  morn 
Strides  godlike  down  the  lofty  hill  : 
His  wife  and  daughter  grinding  corn- 
Two  women  grinding  at  a  mill." 
Oh,  mystery  !     This  sun  of  old 
Was  god  !  was  god  !   and  ample  gold. 


His  golden  hills  had  flocks  of  snow, 

His  valley  fields  had  fat  increase. 

He  saw  his  white  sails  fill  and  blow 

By  restful  isles  of  flower  seas. 

The  wood-dove  sang  his  ceaseless  loves- 

His  harshest  notes  this  soft  wood  dove's. 


396  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

The  Spaniard  holds  his  lands  !     Upon 
His  fields,  his  flocks,  his  hold  is  tight  ! 
But,  oh,  this  glorious  golden  dawn, 
The  golden  doors  that  close  at  night. 
His  gold-hued  babes,  her  russet  breast 
Are  his  !     The  world  may  have  the  rest. 
Mexico  City,  April.  JoAQUlN  MiLLER. 

It  was  my  good  fortune  to  meet  Mr.  Miller  at  the  Mexican  capital 
and  hear  him  recite  the  above  poem  before  it  had  taken  form  on 
paper.  Being  in  deep  sympathy  with  the  subject  of  this  chapter,  he 
kindly  presented  me  with  an  autograph  copy  to  insert  in  my  book.  Its 
tender  pathos  and  quaint  versification  cannot  fail  to  be  admired,  and 
are  worthy  the  genius  and  wide  fame  of  this  gifted  "  Poet  of  the 
Sierras." 

Whether  seen  beneath  the  brilliant  white  sunshine  of  a  cloudless 
day  on  his  native  plains,  or  under  the  mellow  effulgence  of  the  peer- 
less Queen  of  Night  in  the  valley,  consecrated  by  the  shrines  of  his 
forefathers,  the  "  Silent  Aztec  Child  of  the  Sun  "  presents  a  picture 
unique  in  the  history  of  the  world.  He  is  the  primitive  man,  un- 
moved by  the  march  of  civilization  around  him,  but  in  every  lineament 
and  movement,  reflects  the  griefs  and  struggles  of  past  centuries.  He 
lives  surrounded  by  the  traces  of  those  mysterious  races  which  preceded 
him.  All  speak  of  the  mutations  of  the  world — tlie  subjugation  of 
mighty  powers — and  he  has  accepted  the  inevitable  with  a  sad  and 
unresisting  stoicism. 

He  is  ever  picturesque.  In  his  mountain  home  engaged  in  pastoral 
pursuits,  in  holiday  attire  on  his  patron  saint's  day,  or  in  rags  under 
the  electric  lights  of  a  great  city,  the  traditions  of  the  past  hang  over 
him,  investing  him  with  the  interest  attaching  to  the  pathetic  last 
man. 

To-day  men  and  women  ma}-  be  found  with  accredited  documents 
proving  their  descent  from  Montezuma  and  the  princes  of  Tezcuco, 
but  owing  to  inertia  their  claims  are  unasserted. 

The  conquest  and  Spanish  domination  wrought  a  metamorphosis 


MORE   ABOUT    THE    COMMON  PEOPLE.  399 

in  the  life  and  character  of  these  Indians.  Vast  estates  were  once 
theirs.  Their  flocks  and  herds  roamed  at  large  upon  the  plains  of 
their  fathers.  The  blue  sk)',  the  shining  lakes,  the  forests  and 
mountains  belonged  to  these  children  of  the  sun.  To-day  they  arc  in 
dire  poverty  ;  the  lands  once  tilled  by  their  vassals  they  now  till  for 
others.  They  are  the  patient  burden-bearers  of  this  once  grand 
Indian  Empire.  If  their  yoke  is  not  easy,  nor  their  burden  light,  we 
hear  no  complaint. 

If  we  compare  them  with  our  North  American  Indians,  we  are 
struck  with  the  contrast  presented.  At  one  fell  blow  the  Aztecs  were 
conquered,  their  spirit  of  independence  crushed  out.  We  have  con- 
tended with  our  Indians  for  more  than  two  hundred  years.  They 
have  scalped  and  murdered  the  white  man  and  burned  his  home,  bnt 
as  yet  we  have  not  been  able  to  grapple  the  subject. 

He  retreats,  we  follow,  and  so  long  as  he  is  not  completely  sub- 
dued, so  long  will  he  continue  to  pursue  his  own  barbarous  course. 
He  feels  the  time  coming  when  the  white  man  will  possess  his  all — 
when  not  a  foot  of  land,  and  perhaps  but  a  mere  remnant  of  his 
traditions,  will  be  left  to  him.  While  he  can,  he  will  carry  his  revenge 
in  his  own  hand.  He  wants  nothing — cares  for  nothing — if  he  has  not 
his  hunting-uround.  He  has  no  local  habitation  and  no  handicraft 
to  amuse  and  divert  him  from  the  thought  that  each  day  provides 
for  itself;  and  he  must  keep  his  arrows  sharp,  his  flint  and  steel  in 
readiness,  to  meet  the  pale  faces  that  pursue  him. 

The  Mexican  Indian  leads  a  peaceful  life  and  remains  on  the 
same  soil,  even  though  it  be  his  no  longer.  He  is  satisfied,  feeling 
the  worst  is  past  and  perhaps  a  better  day  in  store  for  him.  .Shut 
up  in  his  hut  of  adobe  or  palm,  without  either  light  or  air,  the  chase 
and  the  camp  have  no  charms  for  him.  It  troubles  him  little  that 
he  belongs  to  a  conquered  race.  The  independence  of  Mexico  has 
not  yet  accomplished  much  for  these  people,  yet  they  are  content. 
Would  that  the  great  question  of  our  own  Indians  might  be  settled, 
and  that  they  could  regulate  their  lives  in  as  useful  and  peaceful  a 
manner  as  their  dusky-hued  brethren  in  the  land  of  the  Montezumas  ! 


400 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


Tlie  Mexican  Indian  is  by  inherent  custom  an  a<^riculturist,  and 
notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  conqueror  imposed  upon  him  burden- 
some and  distasteful  labors — among  them  that  of  mining — he  at  the 
first  opportunity  returned  to  his  favorite  vocation,  to  which  he  still 
adheres  at  the  present  day. 

He    is  an    uncompromising  antagonist   to  any  change  of  locality, 

and  clings  to  the  place 
of  his  nativit)-  with  un- 
wavering fidelity.  There 
is  but  little  mirchfulness 
or  merriment  in  his  com- 
position. An  intense  be- 
liever in  the  supernatural, 
it  cannot  be  better  illus- 
trated than  by  the  fact  of 
Montezuma,  in  spite  of 
all  his  splendid  resources, 
yielding  with  so  little  re- 
sistance to  Cortez'  small 
band  of  four  hundred  and 
fifty  men;  for  he  must  have 
felt  convinced  that  the 
Spanish  conqueror  was  the 
one  designated  by  prophe- 
cy and  tradition  to  possess 
the  land. 
"According  to  what  you  declare,"  said  he,  "of  the  place  whence 
you  came,  which  is  toward  the  rising  sun,  and  of  the  great  Lord  w  ho 
is  your  King,  we  must  believe  that  he  is  our  natural  Lord." 

Without  being  inventive,  they  are  great  imitators  and  marvelously 
ingenious  in  the  construction  of  the  infinite  variet}'  of  curiosities  of  the 
country. 

Straw,  wax,  wood,  marble,  grass,  hair  and  mother  earth  arc  ail 
successfully  treated   by  these  dexterous  brown   fingers.     True  to  the 


BEFORE    HER    HUMBLE    COTTAGE   HOME. 


MORE   ABOUT    THE    COMMON  PEOPLE.  4°! 

life  are  these  imitations,  even  the  tiniest  wax  figures  not  more  than 
an  inch  in  length,  representing  venders  of  vegetables,  fruits,  or  other 
commodity.  But  to  me  the  most  wonderful  are  the  productions  of 
the  Guadalajara  Indians  in  clay  and  glazed  pottery.  Of  the  latter, 
their  pitchers,  vases,  water-jugs,  animals  and  toys  of  all  sorts  are  beau- 
tiful, while  in  the  former  an  extraordinar)'  artistic  conception  is 
evinced.  In  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time  they  will  model  for  you 
a  life-like  bust,  either  from  the  life  or  from  a  photograph.  The  strength 
of  expression  and  fidelity  to  the  subject  are  remarkable. 

T\\e\r plujnaje  (feather-work)  is  delicate  and  artistic.  Cortez  and 
his  men  were  much  interested  in  the  cloth  woven  of  feathers,  so 
intricate,  multicolored  and  beautiful.  They  no  longer  manufacture 
feather  cloth,  but  expend  their  skill  in  this  line  in  the  representation 
on  cards  of  all  kinds  of  animals,  birds  and  landscapes. 

On  feast-days  these  ingenious  people  have  their  stalls  on  the  Zocalo, 
with  their  street  agents,  and  business  is  animated.  Each  one  of  these 
days  finds  still  another  variety  of  toys,  and  some  of  them  are  indeed 
laughable.  For  the  1st  of  November  they  have  cross-bones  and  skulls, 
funeral  processions  ua/avcras  in  wood),  and  death's-heads  in  imitation 
bronze,  with  glaring  eyeballs  and  grinning  teeth.  All  these  are  ar- 
ranged on  a  miniature  table,  with  a  small  bottle  lor  pulque,  and  on  one 
corner  a  cake  or  piece  of  bread  of  the  kind  the  dead  may  be  supposed 
to  like. 

Their  rag  figures  and  dolls  are  a  comical  invention.  They  make 
baskets  with  taste  and  ingenuity,  from  the  size  of  a  thimble  to  one 
or  more  3'ards  in  height.  They  e.xcel  in  frescoing.  They  manipulate 
tissue-paper  into  decorative  forms,  and  in  numberless  ways  display 
aptness  and  imitative  skill. 

In  brief,  these  productions  of  their  natural  ingenuity  would  require, 
in  other  countries,  years  of  patient  toil  and  study,  if  they  could  even 
then  be  reproduced.  But  I  have  been  told  that  any  attempt  to  edu- 
cate them  in  their  peculiar  branches  of  art  would  be  the  means  of 
losing  their  entire  knowledge.  This  wonderful  skill  is  purely  the  result 
of  an  artistic  tendency — a  faculty  handed  down  from  his  ancestors. 


402 


FACE     JO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


But.  as  may  be  seen  in  other  avenues  of  business  in  this  land  of 
rest  and  romance,  they  work  on  insignificant  articles  for  days  or  weeks, 

seemingly  to  the  exclusion  of 
all  t;lse,  and  then  dispose  of 
them  for  a  mere  trifle. 

The  Indian  voice  is  soft 
and  low,  almost  flute-like  in 
its  sweetness,  in  this  quality 
contrasting  with  the  shrill 
tones  frequently  heard  in  the 
higher  ranks  of  society.  Their 
step  is  light,  even  cat-like,  in 
its  softness — a  characteristic 
of  all  classes,  regardless  of 
station. 

On  dias  dc  santo  and  other 
feast-days,   outdoor   gambling 
of  every  description  is  indulged 
in    by    this    class,    while   bull- 
fights and  pidqiic-di.x\\-\V\\-\o  con- 
stitute   their    principal    pleas- 
ures. 
The   love    for    spectacular  display  is  also   a   predominating   char- 
acteristic with  them.       It    is    shown    in    the    pleasure    taken   in    sky- 
rockets and   all  pyrotechnics,  especially  if  accompanied   by  a  band  of 
music. 

Their  taste  also  finds  expression  in  the  universal  love  of  flowers. 
Not  only  are  the  humblest  homes  embellished  with  such  gay  and  gor- 
geous flowers  as  would  constitute  the  choicest  treasures  of  a  northern 
hot-house,  but  in  the  streets  and  markets,  edibles  and  other  commodi- 
ties are  exposed  for  sale  side  by  side  with  them,  and  for  a  tlaco  or 
medio  one  may  buy  a  lovely  bouquet. 

They  are  also  great  admirers  of  pictures,  and  groups  may  be  seen 
any  day   in   the  principal   cities,   gazing    intently   on   those  exhibited 


A    CHICKEN    \ENDER. 


MOJ^E   ABOUT    THh.    COMMOX   PEOPLE.  A^l 

in  the  windows.  But  I  have  caught  glances,  pathetic  to  the  last 
degree,  as  they  peered  through  windows  where  shoes  and  stockings 
were  exposed  for  sale. 

The  laboring  class  rise  early  and  work  late,  rarely  going  home  be- 
fore the  close  of  the  day.  Their  wives  bring  them  their  dinner,  and  the 
whole  family  sit  down  to  the  bread  of  contentment  upon  a  curb-stone. 

The  large  number  of  unoccupied  and  non-producing  among  the 
common  people  may  to  some. extent  be  accounted  for  b)'  the  bounty 
of  nature  and  the  cheapness  and  great  variety  of  food-products.  It  is 
little  wonder  that  they  have  no  ambition  to  rise  higher  in  the  social 
scale,  when  the  luxuries  of  life,  without  the  least  adulteration,  may  be 
obtained  for  a  mere  song.  The  idle,  indigent  and  thriftless  have  equal 
advantages  in  the  food  they  eat,  with  tiie  toiling  and  industrious. 
The  atolc  of  all  kinds,  the  barbecued  meats,  soups,  beans  and  rice, 
together  with  the  great  variety  and  cheapness  of  fruits  and  vege- 
tables, render  their  dietary  one  to  be  envied.  From  six  to  twelve 
cents  will  purchase  a  substantial  and  well-cooked  meal,  and  it  is  an 
interesting  event  in  one's  experience  to  see  the  motley  assemblage 
in  the  market  place,  and  to  hear  their  gay  sallies  at  the  mid-day 
meal ;  so  that  in  many  respects  they  have  decided  advantages,  so 
far  as  relates  to  food,  over  even  people  of  affluence  in  some  parts  of 
the  United  States. 

The  climate,  also,  brings  its  blessings  to  the  poor.  They  may  sleep 
in  a  house,  if  it  can  be  afforded  ;  if  not,  their  lodging  may  be  in  the 
streets,  the  recesses  of  the  churches,  or  any  place  that  Morpheus  may 
overtake  them. 

Clothing  may  be  domestic  or  muslin,  with  a  blanket  or  rcbozo,  and 
no  special  inconvenience  is  experienced.  But,  however  poverty-stricken 
and  wretched  their  condition,  the  women  are  always  expert  and 
canny  with  the  needle.  A  woman  with  scarcely  a  change  of  raiment 
will  embroider,  crochet,  and  do  plain  and  fancy  sewing  that  would  put 
to  the  blush  our  most  dexterous  needlewomen.  She  sits  on  the  side- 
walk from  morn  till  eve,  selling  a  basket  of  fruits,  but  not  a  moment 
does  she  lose  from  her  stitching. 


404  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

One  fact  worthy  of  being  chronicled  is,  that  the  common  people  are 
making  a  considerable  effort  toward  advancement  in  learning  to  read 
and  write,  even  while  employed  as  servants  in  families.  I  saw  several 
at  the  capital  who,  unaided,  were  studying  Spanish  one  day  and  Eng- 
lish the  next. 

Mexico  has  a  population  of  about  10,000,000,  of  which  one  and  a 
half  are  pure  white — Americans,  Germans,  French,  English  and  Span- 
iards— and  two  and  a  half  mestizos— leaving  about  6,000,000  of 
Indians. 

It  has  been  estimated  that  there  are  five  hundred  different  dialects 
in  the  country.  The  Indians  have,  in  the  main,  retained  their  own 
race  and  tribal  characteristics.  Spanish  is  the  language  of  many 
of  them,  but  numerous  tribes  arc  to  be  found  who  speak  pureh'  in 
their  own  tongue,  and  cling  to  their  own  traditions,  dress,  and.  to 
some  extent,  their  own  peculiar  forms  of  religious  worship,  seldom 
intermarrying  with  others. 

In  the  sixteenth  century,  according  to  Mexico  a  travcrs  dc  los  Siglos 
the  types  were  classified  as  follows,  and,  barring  the  natural  increase  of 
population,  they  remain  about  the  same  to-day: 

Children  of  Spaniards  born  in  the  country  are  called  Creoles. 

Spaniards  and  Indians  "  Mestizos. 

"           Mestizos  "     Spaniards  "  Castii^'^os. 

"           Castigos  "     Spaniards  "  Espanoles. 

"           Spaniards  "     Negros  "  Mulattos. 

"           Mulattos  "     Spaniards  "  Moriscos. 

"           iVegros  "     Indians  "  Zainhos. 

Occasionally  race  cliaracteristics,  after  lying  dormant  for  perhaps 
generations,  crop  out  unexpectedly  in  families,  causing  quite  a  shock 
when  they  appear.  A  dark,  or  as  is  sometimes  the  case,  black  child 
makes  its  appearance,  and  this  is  called  Saila  atrds  (a  leap  over 
several  generations). 

The  mestizos  are  the  handsomest,  and  the  sambos  must   rest   con- 


MORE  ABOUT    THE   COMMON  PEOPLE.  405 

tent  with  occupying  the  position  of  the  ugliest  and  most  unattractive 
of  the  races. 

As  to  the  real  merits  of  this  classification,  it  is  not  possible  for  me 
to  speak.  I  only  know  how  the  various  shades  and  complexions  im- 
pressed me  as  a  subject  for  study.  The  dark,  olive-tinted  types  seized 
upon  my  fancy  from  the  date  of  my  advent  into  the  country.  I  felt  a 
deep  and  sympathetic  interest  in  them,  as  being  the  more  directly  con- 
nected with  the  aborigines.  In  their  quiet  and  humble  manner  I  read 
the  history  of  a  conquered  people.  In  these  dark  shades  there  exist 
at  least  two  different  types.  The  pale  though  dark,  swarthy,  bloodless 
face,  with  melancholy,  expressionless  eyes  and  dejected  bearing,  in- 
dicates the  one,  while  the  other,  the  type  above  all  others  pleasing  and 
interesting  to  me,  possesses  a  rich  brown  skin,  with  carmine  cheeks  and 
lips  ;  glistening,  white  teeth,  united  with  great,  wondering,  half-startled, 
luminous  eyes,  soft  and  shy  as  those  of  the  gazelle.  Even  their  forms 
and  gait  are  different,  the  one  thin  and  shambling,  the  other,  plump, 
full-blooded,  graceful  and  active.  Their  politeness  -and  humility, 
even  among  the  most  ragged  and  degraded,  are  touching.  This  is  not 
confined  to  their  bearing  toward  superiors,  but  is  also  shown  to  each 
other. 

The  salute  of  the  poorest  to  his  bronze-colored  compatriot  as  they 
pass,  makes  the  air  musical  with  their  liquid  Indian  idiom.  Their  code 
of  etiquette  is  expansive  enough  to  cover  that  practiced  in  the  grand- 
est homes  in  our  American  cities.  In  this  respect  the  wealthiest 
haccndado  has  no  advantage  over  the  humblest  peon  who  toils  for  him 
a  natural  life-time.  They  are  strictly  careful  never  to  omit  the  Don 
and  Dona  to  each  other,  and  "where  you  have  your  house,"  and 
"  muy  a  S7i  disposicion" — terms  synonymous  with  the  higher  classes  — 
are  in  no  way  modified  by  the  lower.  Even  their  children  are  taught 
to  say,  on  being  asked  their  names,  su  criado  de  V.  (your  humble 
servant). 

The  talent  for  music  is  even  more  striking  than  that  of  the  cult- 
ured higher  classes.      It  is  no  unusual  thing  to  hear  every  part  of  an 

air  carried   through  in  perfect  harmony  by  full,  rich,  native   voices, 

26 


406  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

entirely  ignorant  of  the  first  principles  of  the  art  which  they  so  suc- 
cessfully practice. 

The  government  is  now  doing  a  great  work  by  granting  pensions  to 
all  meritorious  persons  in  the  cultivation  of  any  talent.  I  saw  in  the 
Conservatory  of  Music,  in  the  capital,  two  Indian  girls  who  had  walked 
from  Ouer^taro,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  to  present 
themselves  as  pupils  in  that  admirable  institution.  I  heard  them  sing 
selections  from  Italian  opera,  and  the  sweetness,  strength,  and  range 
of  their  voices  were  far  beyond  the  average,  and  produced  a  profound 
impression  upon  the  audience. 

The  brass  bands,  with  which  travelers'  ears  are  regaled  everywhere 
in  the  country,  are  composed  of  this  part  of  the  population.  It  is 
no  uncommon  thing  to  see  bands  composed  entirely  of  young  boys, 
from  twelve  to  eighteen  years,  who  render  the  music  in  such  a  manner 
that  a  master  from  the  Old  World  would  find  but  little  to  criticise  and 
much  to  commend. 

Their  music  is  of  a  sad,  melancholy  kind,  even  that  danced  or 
sung  at  their  fandangoes.  La  Paloma  is  a  universal  favorite,  and  as 
they  sing  it,  often  their  bodies  and  faces  look  as  if  it  were  an  appeal 
to  the  Virgin  or  some  of  the  saints,  rather  than  an  air  for  enlivenment 
or  amusement.  In  this  way  the  sentiment  and  deep-toned  pathos  in 
their  natures  find  expression. 

The  large  class  of  useless,  lazy,  indigent,  ragged,  and  wretched 
objects  in  the  streets  of  a  Mexican  cit>'  impresses  the  stranger  that 
there  is  no  good  among  them.  But  there  is  a  large  and  industrious 
population  possessing  kindly  and  gentle  impulses,  the  women  prac- 
ticing, as  far  as  possible,  the  tender  charities  of  the  cultured  higher 
classes. 

Even  the,  Icpcro,  the  representative  of  the  very  lowest  and  most 
degraded  of  the  male  element,  assumes  the  extremes  of  two  condi- 
tions. On  the  one  hand,  he  has  no  compunctions  of  conscience  in 
appropriating  the  property  of  another,  nor  does  his  moral  nature 
shrink,  perhaps,  from  plunging  the  deadly  dagger  into  the  back  of  his 
unsuspecting  victim,  w  hile  other  vicious  and  ignoble  traits  are  imputed 


MOKE   ABOUT    THE    COMMON  PEOPLE. 


407 


to  him  ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  he  has  a  heart  and  much  of  the  sen- 
timental and  romantic  instinct  which  invests  him  with  many  of  the 
attractions  of  the  bandit. 

The  most  beautiful  and  distinctive  female  type  of  tlie  common 
people  is  the  China  (Chena),  familiarly  known  as  the  China  poblana. 
With  many  added  attractions  she  may  be  considered  the  counterpart 
of  the  French  grisette.  But  the  China  has  a  rich  and  luxurious  tropi- 
cal order  of  beauty  that  is  especiall}'  her  own,  with  hands,  arms,  and 
feet  that  could  not  be  excelled  for  artistic  elegance  by  Praxiteles. 
She  has  the  warmth  of   nature  and  faithful  devotion  which  charac- 


THE    ARTIST  S    REVENGE. 


terize  all  Mexican  women.  Her  peculiar  costume,  now  rarely  seen, 
possesses  a  semi-barbaric  charm  that  interdicts  all  rivalry;  but  it  will 
soon  be  a  memory  of  the  past,  having  given  place  in  great  measure 
to  a  more  modern  style. 

The  common  people  have,  generally,  a  great  dread  of  having  their 
pictures  taken.  A  sort  of  superstition  haunts  them  that  the  process  will 
deprive  them  of  some  part  of  their  being,  either  corporal  or  spiritual. 
This  dread  was  realized  when  the  artist  took  her  revenge  on  a  curious 
crowd  who  had  gathered  so  closely  around  us  as  to  almost  impede 
the  manipulations  of  her  pencil.  I  was  constantly  on  the  qui  vive 
for  some  of  my  former  mozos  who  had  left  me  some  years  before  to  go 
to  their  families.  I  was  certain  on  one  occasion  that  I  had  found  one 
of  them,  but  he  had  risen  from  the  rank  of  nioso  to  a  cargador,  with 
all  the  dignity  and  equipments  of  that  station.  When  he  entered  the 
house  where  I  was,  on  an  errand,  the  resemblance  to  Miguel  Rodriguez 


408  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH   THE   MEXICANS. 

was  so  striking  that  I  told  him  so,  and  begged  him  to  allow  himself 
to  be  sketched.  But  no  sooner  were  the  initial  marks  made  upon 
the  paper,  than,  looking  on  to  examine  the  work,  he  became  filled 
with  unreasonable  but  not-to-be-combated  terror,  saying,  perhaps 
the  man  he  looked  like  had  robbed  me,  and  so,  with  the  inevitable 
finger  motion,  and  a  "  No,  I  cannot  permit  it  !  "  turned  and  fled  out 
of  the  room,  down  the  steps,  and  up  the  street  like  a  deer  before  the 
hounds. 

In  writing  of  this  class,  I  have  allowed  them  to  speak  for  them- 
selves, and  surely  no  histoiy  is  more  reliable  and  complete  than  that 
related  by  the  actors  in  the  events  recorded. 

They  are  possessed  of  a  certain  amount  of  piquancy,  as  expressed 
in  their  peculiar  dialect  and  idioms.  With  this  there  is  united  also  a 
strong  vein  of  humor,  and  they  usually  see  a  point  as  quickly  as  any 
people. 

In  consideration  of  the  fact  that  they  have  but  little  education, 
their  native  shrewdness  and  intelligence  are  surprising.  The  most 
highly  educated  and  enlightened  cannot  cope  with  them  in  the 
matter  of  barter  and  sale  and  the  counting  of  money.  By  instinct 
they  know  just  how,  when,  and  where  to  strike  the  weak  point  of  a 
stranger  in  any  business  transaction. 

Americans  are  special  objects  of  interest  in  this  line.  They  always 
imagine  that  all  Americans  are  possessed  of  boundless  wealth. 

The  love  of  money  is  well  developed,  and  the  possibility  of  win- 
ning even  a  tlaco  at  gambling  is  sufficient  to  induce  them  to  lose  a 
whole  night's  sleep. 

These  people  are  made  up  of  that  mixed  race  of  natives  and 
whites  called  mestizos. 

Their  social  life  is  of  a  free  nature,  and  consequently  but  few 
marriages  take  place  among  them.  The  women  are  vulgarly  called 
gat  as  (cats),  or  gdrbanccras  (bastards)  ;  the  former  are  those  who 
usually  perform  the  offices  of  chambermaids,  nurses  and  cooks,  the 
latter  generally  do  the  marketing. 

As  the  shops  where  the  marketing  is  done  are  kept  by  the  commo'i 


MORE  ABOUT    THE    COMMON  PEOPLE.  409 

people,  when  a  viarchaiita  (customer)  appears,  the  shopkeeper  begins 
to  pay  her  compliments,  and  say  things  with  double  meanings.  She 
usually  answers  in  the  same  manner,  which  causes  the  shopkeeper  to 
laugh.  If  the  servant  is  at  all  attractive,  and  the  clerk  understands 
that  she  is  a  match  for  him,  and  sees  that  she  receives  his  compli- 
ments with  pleasure,  he  takes  her  basket,  keeps  on  talking  to  her,  and 
tries  to  keep  her  as  long  as  possible.  They  carry  on  something  like 
the  following  dialogue  by  the  clerk  saying  to  her : 

"  Que  cosa  sc  le  ofrccc,  mi  vida  ? "  ("  What  do  you  want,  my 
life?") 

"  No  sc  cnojc porquc  hasta  cso  sale  perdiendo'^  ("  Don't  get  mad,  for 
you  will  only  be  the  loser"). 

^^ No  Ic  hnporta,  anda  dispaclienie"  she  replies  ("Mind  your  own 
business,  come  wait  on  me"). 

"  Pues  deme  la  tnano y  digamc  eoitio  se  llama"  ("  Weil,  give  me  your 
hand  and  tell  me  your  name"),  he  rejoins. 

Her  reply  to  this  is  full  of  stinging  sarcasm,  which  finds  vent  in  the 
following  way  : 

"  Ora  si  !  que  cncaiiiisado,  tan  igualado  !  Pareee  que  soy  su  jugcte. 
A  nda  dispachcmc  y  no  esie  nioliendo  que  sc  me  hace  tarde  y  la  niiia  me 
regaha  porquc  mc  tardo  con  cl  niandaao"  ("  Well,  I  should  say  you  were 
a  naked  upstart.  One  would  think  I  was  your  plaything.  Come,  wait 
on  me,  and  don't  bother  me,  for  it  is  getting  late,  and  the  mistress  will 
scold  me  for  being  so  long  doing  the  errands"). 

When  he  sees  she  is  a  little  angry,  he  gives  her  back  the  basket 
with  the  things  she  has  bought.  She  then  throws  the  money  to  him 
on  the  counter,  in  an  angry  manner,  for  him  to  take  out  the  cost  of 
what  she  has  bought.  When  he  gives  her  back  the  change,  he  takes 
her  hand,  which  she  pulls  away,  after  he  has  given  it  a  squeeze.  The 
next  day  she  returns  to  the  same  shop  or  stand,  but  this  time  she  pre- 
sents herself  a  little  less  reluctantly  than  before,  and  without  mind- 
ing at  all  what  is  said  to  her.  On  the  contrary,  she  leads  him  on,  by 
throwing  little  stones  at  him  or  giving  him  a  sly  pinch. 

At  the  end  of  a  month  or  two  they  make  an  appointment  to  meet 


4IO  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

where  they  may  take  advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  treat  of  their 
love  affairs  more  freely.  The  day,  hour  and  place  being  appointed, 
by  means  of  which  they  can  see  each  other  alone  (which  is  the  first 
object  of  all  lovers),  they  get  permission  from  their  employers,  and 
dressing  themselves  the  best  they  can,  hasten  to  the  trysting  place. 

The  first  time  they  look  at  each  other  they  are  somewhat  discon- 
certed, and  try  to  pretend  indifference.  But  she  is  not  so  severe  in 
her  manner  but  that  he  feels  authorized  in  venturing  on  a  caress. 
From  that  time  he  thinks  it  proper  that  she  should  not  serve  any  longer 
where  she  has  been,  although  she  has  been  giving  him  a  part  of  all  her 
wages.  In  reply  she  says  she  "  does  not  want  to  lose  her  peace 
of  mind,  because  men  always  say  the  same  thing  to  women,  and 
she  does  not  want  him  to  repent  by  and  by  and  put  her  out  into  the 
street."  But  at  last  she  adds,  "If  you  will  not  forsake  me  and  will 
treat  me  kindly,  I  am  disposed  to  love  you  ;  only  you  must  tell  my 
parents,  and,  if  they  consent,  and  your  intentions  are  good,  you  can 
rely  upon  my  being  your  sweetheart." 

After  this,  the  man  takes  the  woman  by  the  hand  or  puts  his 
arm  around  her  and  covering  her  with  his  own  scrape,  which  is  the 
general  custom,  they  go  to  some  stand  where  things,  if  not  of  very 
good  quality,  are  excessively  cheap,  and  eat  enchiladas  and  tamales 
and  diX'WiV  pulque . 

Often  the  honeymoon  does  not  last  long ;  dissension  and  strife 
are  apt  to  ensue,  and  the  old  story  of  domestic  infelicity  is  repeated. 
Still,  though  the  woman  concludes  her  husband  does  not  love  her, 
if  he  does  not  use  the  rod,  they  are  not  so  miserable  as  might 
appear. 

A  woman  of  the  common  people  prefers  a  man  of  her  own  class, 
however  poor  and  rough  he  may  be,  to  one  of  a  higher  station,  what- 
ever offers  or  promises  he  may  make  her.  For  they  still  preserve  the 
traditional  aversion  which  the  Creoles  and  native  races  have  always 
felt  for  foreigners. 

Among  the  Indians  the  violation  of  conjugal  faith  is  more  rare 
than    in   any   other  class  of   society,  not  even   excepting  the  middle 


MORE    ABOUT    THE    COMMOX  PEOPLE. 


411 


class,  wliich,  beyond   question  in    Mexico,  as  in  all  other  countries,  is 
the  most  moral  and  upright. 

When  legal  marriages  occur,  the  parents  make  every  arrange- 
ment when  the  young  people  have  arrived  at  an  age  at  which  they 
are  able  to  bear  the  responsibilities  of  married  life.  When  such  a 
case  presents  itself,  the  parents  of  the  lover  go  to  the  house  of  the 
sweetheart,  and  take  with  them  a  cliiqnilndtc  (a  certain  kind  of  big 
basket),  containing  a  turkey,  several  bottles  of  native  brandy  and 
other  drinks,   bread,  ears  of 


'0^,<'\ 


dried  corn,  and  peppers  of 
different  kinds.  The  first 
time  the  parents  of  the  lover 
go  to  ask  for  the  girl's  hand, 
they  organize  a  sort  of  pro- 
cession, composed  of  some 
of  the  relatives  and  friends 
of  the  family  and  a  band  of 
music,  which  plays  without 
intermission  from  the  house 
from  which  they  start  to  the 
dwelling  of  the  maiden. 

Once  there,  the  band 
and  the  rest  of  the  proces- 
sion are  profoundly  silent, 
while  the  petition  is  being 
made. 

The  first  request  is  gen- 
erally refused  by  the  parents  of  the  girl,  until  they  consult  with  the 
relatives  and  ascertain  the  will  of  her  who  is  sought  in  marriage.  If 
the  result  is  favorable,  they  appoint  the  wedding  day  ;  if  unfavorable, 
the  answer  is  reduced  simply  to  returning  the  basket  with  its  contents. 

As  soon  as  the  news  in  the  affirmative  is  received,  the  family  of 
the  bridegroom  invite  all  their  friends  to  the  fandango  which  is  given 
on  the  day  of  the  wedding,  in  honor  of  the  newly-married  couple. 


A   MOUNTAINEER. 


412  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH   THE  MEXICANS. 

The  bridegroom  appears  in  pantaloons  and  short  jacket  of  cash- 
mere, white  embroidered  shirt,  red  sash,  raw  hide  or  deerskin  shoes, 
and  a  highly  decorated,  broad-brimmed  hat.  Followed  by  his  family, 
padrinos  (those  who  are  to  give  him  away),  witnesses,  and  those  who 
have  been  invited,  he  proceeds  to  the  house  of  the  bride,  where  he  is 
overwhelmed  with  attentions  from  the  family. 

The  dress  of  the  bride  consists  of  a  blue  skirt  with  red  sash,  and  a 
chemise  with  a  deep  yoke  and  sleeves  elaborately  embroidered  with 
bright-colored  beads,  a  red  silk  handkerchief  with  points  crossed  in 
front,  and  held  by  a  fancy  pin.  The  handkerchief  serves  to  cover  the 
neck  and  breast,  leaving  the  arms  free.  She  also  wears  many  strings 
of  beads,  and  silver  hoop  ear-rings  of  extraordinary  size.  Her  hair  is 
worn  in  two  braids,  laid  back  and  forth  on  the  back  of  her  head,  the 
ends  tied  with  red  ribbons.  She  wears  babuchas,  a  kind  of  slipper 
made  either  of  deerskin  trimmed  with  beads  or  of  gay  cloth.  The 
toilet  is  completed  with  a  white  woolen  mantle,  cut  in  scallops 
trimmed  with  blue,  and  hanging  from  the  plaited  hair. 

After  they  have  proceeded  to  the  church  and  have  been  married 
according  to  the  usual  religious  ceremony,  they  go  to  the  house  of 
the  bride,  accompanied  by  the  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
village  where  the  marriage  has  taken  place,  followed  by  sky-rockets, 
music,  and  shouts  from  the  boys.  In  the  house  there  is  a  large  room 
decorated  with  wreaths,  flowers,  and  tissue-paper  ornaments,  with 
palm-leaf  mats  and  wooden  benches  running  around  the  room.  Here 
the  wedding  feast  takes  place,  presided  over  by  the  bride  and  the 
madrina  (the  one  who  gave  her  away),  who  sit  on  the  mats  at  one  end 
of  the  room,  while  the  bridegroom  and  h\s  padrino,  and  other  guests, 
occupy  the  wooden  benches.  There  they  receive  the  congratulations 
of  relatives  and  friends.  But  before  the  dinner,  the  bride  removes 
her  wedding  finery,  and  puts  on  a  house  dress,  and  grinds  all  the  corn 
that  will  be  necessary  to  make  the  tortillas  for  the  repast. 

When  the  dinner,  which  generally  takes  place  about  six  o'clock,  is 
over,  the  dance  begins,  accompanied  in  its  motions  by  songs  which, 
though   agreeable,  are  somewhat   melancholy.     The   older  guests  re- 


MORE  ABOUT    THE   COMMON   PEOPLE.  413 

main  at  the  table  drinking /w/^z^f  and  recalling  their  youth,  until  this 
cheerful  beverage  reconciles  them  to  the  epoch  in  which  they  live. 
The  greater  part  of  the  night  is  spent  in  this  way. 

The  following  day  they  repair  to  the  house  of  the  bridegroom, 
where  the  feast  is  concluded  with  another  dinner  and  dance;  the  only 
difference  being  that  on  this  occasion  the  bride  has  nothing  to  do  with 
the  preparations. 

The  two  days  which  are  devoted  to  the  solemnization  of  the  wed- 
ding being  spent,  the  couple  receive  the  blessing  of  their  parents  and 
retire  to  their  own  house  to  enjoy  the  honeymoon. 

The  following  is  a  specimen  of  a  street  conversation  between  a 
man  and  woman  of  the  common  people. 

Says  the  man  :  "  Pos  ondcva  mi  vida,pos  dc  donde  sale  tan  linda  coino 
7ina  rosa  ?  ni  signiera  habla  ?  "  ("  Where  are  you  going,  my  life  ?  Where 
do  you  come  from  as  nice  as  a  rose?    Don't  you  want  to  speak  to  me  ?  ") 

"  Pos ande  habia  de  ir?  Mire  que pregunta  !  "  ("  Where  am  I  going? 
Listen,  what  a  question  !  "),  she  replies. 

"  Pos  claro  oiidc  va  ?  b  ya  porque  /leva  su  rebosito  niicvo  se  la  hcctui  de 
lado  !  "  ("  Well,  that's  all  right,  but  where  are  you  going?  Now  that 
you  have  on  your  new  reboco,  you  are  beginning  to  put  on  airs !  "),  he 
retorts.     At  the  same  moment  he  catches  her  by  the  rebozo. 

"  Oh,  sndlicnie,  mire  qiie  aburricion  con  V.  todos  los  dias  que  lo  encu- 
entro  me  ha  d'estar  moliendo  !  Caramba  con  V.  ?  "  ("  Oh,  let  me  alone! 
what  a  nuisance  you  are!  Every  day  I  see  you,  you  bother  me  so! 
Goodness,  what  can  I  do  with  you  ?  ")  she  vehemently  replies. 

"  Pero  no  se  enoje.  Me  qiiiere  6  no  me  quiere  ?  digame  y  si  no  me  dice 
no  la  dejo  ir  !  "  ("  Don't  get  mad.  Do  you  love  me  or  not  ?  tell  me, 
and  if  you  don't  tell  me  I  shan't  let  you  go"),  says  he,  pacifically. 

"  Dale  otra  vez,  pos  ya  no  se  lo  dije  el  otro  dia  qjie  no  me  andc  iiwles- 
tando  ?  "  ("But  didn't  I  tell  you  the  other  day  not  to  bother  me 
again  ?  ")  says  she. 

"  Cuando  me  lo  ha  dicho  ?  mire  nada  mas  que  embustera  f  "  ("  When 
did  you  tell  me  that  ?  See  what  a  story-teller  you  are  !  ")  answers  the 
man. 


414  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH   THE   MEXICANS. 

"Bueno,  si  no  me  dcja,  sc  lo  digo  al  gendarme  que  alii  viene  I"  ("  Well, 
if  you  don't  let  me  go,  I'll  tell  the  policeman  who  is  coming  there  !  ") 
she  threateningly  answers. 

"  Digasclo,  el  no  tieiie  que  vcr  con  mis  negocios  !  "  ("  Tell  him,  then  ; 
he  has  no  right  to  know  my  business ! ")  says  the  man,  inso- 
lently. And  when  she  sees  that  she  can't  go,  then  she  says,  entreat- 
ingly: 

'' Qnc  qiiicre  ?  y  dejcne  ir  que  se  me  Jiace  /rtrc/r  "  ("  What  do  you 
want  ?     Let  me  go,  now,  because  it  is  getting  late  "). 

He  :  "  Pos  ya  sc  lo  dije  que  si  me  quicre  6  no  f  "  ("  I  have  already 
asked  you,  do  you  love  me  or  not  ?  "). 

"  Pos  yo  lo  qiiisiera  pcro  dicen  que  cs  casado,  pos  para  que  mc  quiere? 
eiitonccs  vayasc  eon  su  nuyer  !  "  ("  I  should  like  you,  but  I  was  told  that 
you  are  married  ;  if  so,  what  do  you  want  with  me?  Go  on  to  your 
wife  !  ")  she  replies. 

"•  Miri' !  Jiada  mas  lo  que  son  las  j'cnlcs  dc  vicntirosas.  Quien  sc  lo 
dij'o  ?  Si  fuera  easado,  no  la  quisiera,  pos  digame  nada  7nas  "  ("  See 
what  story-tellers  the  people  are!  Who  told  you?  If  I  was  married, 
I  wouldn't  love  you.     Only  tell  me"),  he  retorts. 

"  Bueno,  que  deveras  me  quicre  ?  "  ("  Weil,  is  it  really  true  that  you 
love  me?  ")  she  now  pleasantly  replies. 

^"^  Pos  Hast  a  la  pard  d'enfrcnie,  como  no/  V.  mas  diilcc  que  un 
acitron  y  mas  bucna  que' I  pan  calicnte.  Qualqitiera  scnamora  dc  V.  nada 
mas  con  que  sc  le  quite  un  poquito  cl gcnio  de  Suegra  que  tiene,  cntonces 
si  valia  la  plata,  pcro  no  tcnga  cuidado  que  yo  sc  lo  quitarc  !  "  ("  I  love 
you  about  as  much  as  that  wall  in  front  of  us.  Why  not  ?  You're 
sweeter  than  preserves  or  candy,  and  better  than  hot  bread.  Whoever 
sees  you  will  love  you,  only  you  must  leave  off  some  of  that  hot 
temper  such  as  mothers-in-law  have,  and  then  you'll  be  equal  to  a 
silver  mine;  but  never  mind,  don't  bother  yourself,  I'll  get  all  that 
out  of  you  !") 

After  this,  her  hot  temper  gets  the  better  of  her,  and,  tossing  his 
hand  from  her  shoulder,  and  releasing  the  rebozo,  she  says: 

"  D(feine  !  ddjeme  !  "  ("  Get  out  the  way,  and  let  me  alone  !  "),  and. 


MORE  ABOUT   THE   COMMON  PEOPLE.  41 5 

wrapping  her  rcbozo  more  tightly  about  her  head,  passes  rapidly  from 
his  sight. 

Under  ordinary  circumstances,  the  common  people  are  easily  con- 
trolled, but  if  anything  occurs  suddenly  to  rouse  their  slumbering 
wrath  or  animosity,  every  animate  object  had  better  retire  before  the 
advancing  frenzied  multitude.  Face  a  stampede  of  buffaloes — jump 
into  the  raging  sea,  or  risk  the  relentless  cyclone — but.  always  keep 
clear  of  a  Mexican  mob.  Let  their  anger  be  aroused  at  a  bull- 
fight because  of  the  inefificiency  of  the  torrcros  or  the  tameness 
of  the  bull,  the  further  one  gets  from  the  scene  the  better  for  him. 
They  demolish  the  ring,  tear  down  its  whole  interior,  smash  the 
benches  and  seats  into  atoms,  and  did  not  the  ruralcs,  or  strong 
police  force,  take  charge  of  the  bull-fighters,  they  would  be  in  dan- 
ger of  losing  their  lives.  The  mob  comes  down  upon  them  like  a 
thundering  tornado. 

It  has  been  estimated  that  the  number  of  people  who  serve  in  one 
capacity  or  another  is  about  one-fifth  of  the  common  population. 
That  part  relating  to  the  household  is  in  a  great  measure  an  insepa- 
rable adjunct  of  it ;  but  there  are  also  separate  services  that  are  per- 
formed by  people  on  the  outside,  who  come  daily  for  the  purpose. 
The  low  wages,  and  the  generally  poverty-stricken  condition  of  the 
masses,  place  the  servants  in  a  state  of  extreme  dependence. 

,  An  average  house  in  the  city  has  from  ten  to  twenty  servants,  and 
I  have  seen  some  grand  houses  where  thirty  or  thirty-five  were  em- 
ployed. Each  one  has  his  or  her  separate  duties  to  perform,  and 
there  is  no  clashing  and  no  infringement  one  upon  the  other.  A 
larger  number  of  Mexican  servants  can  live  on  peaceable  terms  than 
those  of  any  other  nationality.  It  is  a  rare  occurrence  to  hear  them 
quarreling,  whatever  disaffection  may  exist. 

The  leading  servants  of  the  household  may  be  classified  as 
follows : 

El portcro — The  man  who  takes  care  of  the  door. 
El  cocliero — The  driver. 


4l6  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

El  la  cay  0 — The  footman. 

El  caballerango — The  hostler. 

El  mozo — A  general  man  for  errands,  etc.  (I  have  given  an  idea  of  him  in  all 
his  glory.) 

El  cargador — A  public  carrier. 

El camarista — In  hotels  he  is  the  chambermaid  ;  in  private  houses  he  attends 
the  gentleman  of  the  house,  brushes  clothes,  etc. 

La  recamerera — Female  chambermaid,  as  employed  in  private  houses. 

Ama  de  Haves — Mistress  of  the  keys,  literally  ;  the  housekeeper. 

Cocinera — The  cook. 

Galopina — The  scullion. 

Pilniaiiia — In  the  Mexican  idiom,  piltoutli  niiia  {mama-car gar') — The  woman 
who  carries  the  child  out  to  walk. 

Chichi — Mexican  idiom,  chichihua — Wet-nurse. 

Molcndera — The  woman  who  grinds  the  corn 

Costurera — Sewing  woman. 

Planchadora — Ironing  woman. 

The  position  o{  porter o  is  the  most  responsible  one  about  the  house. 
Both  day  and  night  he  is  charged  with  the  safety  and  well-being  of 
its  inmates.  They  are  generally  excellent  and  reliable  men,  and  per- 
form their  duties  with  remarkable  zeal  and  fidclit}-.  In  large  cities 
he  does  nothing  but  guard  the  door,  but  in  smaller  towns  the  posi- 
tion of  portero  is  often  merged  in  that  of  mozo,  or  general  man.     At 

the  capital  one  man  will  have  the  responsible  care  of  a  large  building, 

* 
in  which  perhaps   ten   or  a  dozen    families   reside.     They  all  look  to 

him  for  the  safety  of  their  rooms  or  apartments.  He  lives  with  his 
family  in  some  dark  little  nook  under  a  staircase,  or,  if  the  house  is 
so  arranged,  he  may  have  a  comfortable  room  with  a  window  on  the 
street  ox  patio. 

A  Mexican  lacayo  in  his  picturesque  hat  and  faultless  black  suit, 
elaborately  trimmed  with  jingling  silver,  is  indeed  a  "  thing  of  beauty 
and  a  joy  forever,"  but  not  a  single  instance  have  I  ever  heard  of  a 
seflorita's  eloping  with  him  :  the  difference  in  station  is  never  over- 
looked when  it  comes  to  matrimony. 

These  servants  have  deep  attachments  for  the  family  with  whom 


i'ETATE,    JARANA    AND    POTTERY    VENDERS. 


MORE  ABOUT    THE   COMMON  PEOPLE.  419 

they  live.  They  sometimes  serve  in  one  a  life-time,  and  when  no 
longer  able  to  do  so,  are  succeeded  by  their  children,  in  the  same 
capacity. 

In  case  of  a  death  in  the  family  where  they  are  employed,  they  at 
once  don  the  somber  luto  (black),  and  never  appear  outside  the  house 
without  it  for  six  months. 

This  faithful  attachment  is  especially  and  frequently  shown  by  the 
pilmauia.  She  will  tenderly  and  patiently  nurse  each  child  in  rota- 
tion, and  to  the  last  one  her  devotion  is  unimpaired.  She  also  takes 
charge  of  baby's  clothes,  and  herself  washes  the  dainty  fabrics,  rather 
than  intrust  them  to  a  lavandcra.  Children  have  their  own  pet  name 
for  the  /lilinama,  abbreviating  it  into  nana,  '"  Quicro  mi  nana"  ("I 
want  m}'  nana")  being  frequently  heard.  The  chichi  (wet-nurse)  does 
nothing  but  give  sustenance  to  the  babe,  and  is  never  permitted 
to  leave  the  house  except  under  the  surveillance  of  the  a7na  de 
llavcs. 

This  latter  functionarj,-  has  entire  charge  of  the  household  linen. 
She  directs  the  army  of  servants  under  her,  and  is  a  kind  of  queen- 
bee  in  the  hive.  She  holds  herself  far  above  the  servants,  will  carry 
no  household  packages,  and  is  very  tenacious  of  the  dignity  attaching 
to  her  position.  Indeed,  it  not  infrequently  happens  that  she  is  a 
relative  or  connection  of  the  family.  She  has  frequently  three  or 
four  assistants. 

Mexican  servants  as  a  whole  are  tractable,  kind,  faithful,  and  hum- 
ble. They  shrink  instinctively  from  harshness  or  scolding,  but  yield 
a  willing  obedience  to  kindly  given  orders.  They  are  accused  of  being 
universal  thieves,  in  which  accusation  I  do  not  concur,  although, 
indeed,  the  extremely  low  wages  for  which  they  work  might  seem  to 
warrant,  or  at  least  excuse,  small  peculations.  But  they  have  this 
redeeming  trait,  that  they  generally  appreciate  the  trust  placed  in 
them,  and  this  sometimes  to  a  remarkable  degree.  Instances  were 
not  uncommon  during  the  days  of  revolution  when  portcros,  inoMs, 
and  other  servants  voluntarily  sacrificed  their  lives  in  defense  of  the 
life  or  property  of  their  employers.     But  they  have  their  peculiarities, 


420  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

acquired  and  engendered  by  the  various  circumstances  that  have 
hedged  them  about,  for  which  all  allowance  must  be  made.  If  due 
patience  and  tact  be  exercised  in  the  outset  by  foreign  housekeepers, 
they  will  surely  become  deeply  attached  to  the  entire  household,  and 
better  servants  are  not  to  be  found.  Especially  is  this  true  with 
regard  to  American  children,  to  whom  they  become  extremely  de- 
voted. But  it  must  be  remembered  that  their  customs  are  overgrown 
with  the  moss  of  centuries,  and  care  must  be  exercised  in  disturbing 
it  by  foreign  methods  of  labor,  or  the  application  of  new  ideas.  They 
know  their  own  way,  and  have  a  repugnance  to  any  interference  with 
their  precious  "  costumbrcs." 

In  their  various  employments  their  deportment  is  of  the  most  quiet 
kind.  If  the  mistress  desires  their  attention,  unless  near  at  hand  she 
does  not  call  their  names,  but  merely  slaps  her  hands  together,  which 
attracts  immediate  attention.  This  clapping  is  practiced  in  the  street 
as  well  as  in  the  house.  Nothing  would  sooner  confuse  a  servant  than 
calling  her  name  in  a  loud,  harsh  key. 

On  the  frontier  the  mistress  is  known  as  scuora,  but  in  interior 
towns  and  cities  she  is  always  the  iiifia  (child),  no  matter  if  she  has 
reached  a  hundred  years. 

The  hand  motion  by  which  a  servant  is  summoned  is  the  reverse 
of  our  beckoning  sign — the  palm  being  turned  outward. 

The  wages  of  a  cook  are  from  $2.00  to  $5.00  per  month  ;  coach- 
man, from  $10.00  to  $30.00;  serving  women,  $3.00  to  $8.00;  and  so  on 
in  like  proportion. 

With  these  small  sums  entire  rations  are  not  furnished  them. 
They  are  paid  a  medio  and  qiiariillo  each  day,  independent  of  their 
wages,  to  buy  coffee  and  bread  in  the  morning,  and  bread  and  pulque 
for  each  dinner  and  supper;  or  they  are  paid  62}^  cents  every  eight 
days,  for  this  purpose.  In  some  places  a  medio  s  worth  of  soap  is 
given  them  each  week  to  have  their  clothes  washed,  and  the  lower  the 
wages,  the  less  soap  they  get.  The  value  of  this  soap  is  often  col- 
lected a  month  in  advance,  thus  leaving  a  glaring  deficit  in  their  clean 
clothes  account. 


MORE  ABOUT    THE  COMiVOA^  PEOPLE.  421 

They  generally  leave  the  last  place  in  debt,  which  is  assumed 
by  the  new  master.  If  the  servant's  wages  be  $4.00  per  month, 
and  she  owes  $12.00  or  $25.00,  as  the  case  may  be,  she  draws  only 
$2.50,  leaving  $1.50  for  her  abono  (amount  of  indebtedness). 

A  singular  method  of  keeping  accounts  is  that  employed  by  the 
untutored  common  people.  I  saw  an  Indian  on  the  line  of  a  certain 
railway  who  had  engaged  to  furnisli  goats'  and  cows'  milk  for  the  con- 
tractors. The  cows'  milk  he  purchased  from  another  party;  the  ac- 
count with  the  railway  and  that  with  the  party  from  whom  he  bought 
the  milk  were  kept  on  a  stick  stripped  of  the  bark  in  alternate  sec- 
tions. Certain  kinds  of  notches  were  then  cut  on  either  side,  indicat- 
ing pints  or  quarts ;  other  notches,  straight  or  oblique,  represented 
qiiartillos  (  3  cents),  iiicdios  (6  cents),  or  rcalcs  (12A  cents),  the  payment 
for  the  same. 

An  error  occurred  in  the  settlement  of  the  accounts,  which  the 
book-keeper  did  not  observe,  but  which  was  discovered  by  the  Indian, 
and,  though  against  himself,  he  would  only  settle  according  to  the 
notches  on  his  stick. 

Customs  may  vary  in  different  provinces  as  to  the  way  of  keeping 
private  accounts.  At  the  capital  the  lives  and  "  costiinibrcs  "  of  the 
servants  are  different  from  those  in  small  towns  and  interior  cities. 
I  append  tlie  account  of  a  cook  at  Santa  Rosalia,  which  will  give 
an  idea  of  the  forms  called  librettos  there  used  between  servant  and 
employer.  In  the  table  given  below  it  must  be  stated  that  x  crossing 
the  line  means  ten  dollars,  and  V  above  the  line,  five  dollars  ;  q  cross- 
ing the  line  is  one  dollar,  while  a  small  naught  above  the  line  is  half 
a  dollar;  a  straight  mark  crossing  the  line  (  |  )  is  a  real  ■  and  a  short 
one  above  the  line  is  a  medio. 

By  this  it  will  be  seen  that  "  Gertrude  Torres,  under  a  certain  date, 
agrees  to  cook  and  do  whatever  work  is  required  of  her  in  the  house. 
She  enters  the  house  owing  her  former  employer  thirty-four  dollars. 
Her  new  master  assumes  this  debt,  without  which  she  could  not  have 
changed  her  place.    Her  wages  are  four  dollars  per  month,  and  from  this 

sum  Don  Santiago  Stoppelli  retains  three  dollars  toward  the  liquida- 

27 


422 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


tion  of  the  original    amount.     The   accompanying   plates   show  how 
these  accounts  are  kept. 


'^ 


^■^^     ^^»-Z.    i^^y^^^C^ 


The  furnishing  of  the  homes  of  the  common  people  is  necessarily 
meager;  sometimes  only  mats  laid  upon  the  dirt  floor  serve  for  beds, 
or  a  few  rudely  made  bedsteads  and  chairs,  with  pictures  of  the  saints 
and  a  quantity  of  home-manufactured  toys,  constitute  the  outfit. 
They  ^xc  jcntc  ordinario,  but  their  houses  are  reasonably  clean.  One 
corner  of  the  room  is  generally  devoted  to  an  infinite  variety  of  pot- 
tery suspended  on  nails,  This  is  collected  from  all  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, and  is  their  chief  household  treasure  ;  even  small  children  can 
point  out  the  different  kinds  and  tell  where  each  piece  was  made. 

Let  one  enter  when  he  will,  he  is  sure  to  be  greeted  politely,  and 
to  have  the  kindliest  hospitality  extended  to  him.     I  remember  one  of 


MOJiL  ABOUT    THE    COMMON   PEOPLE. 


423 


the  houses  into  which  I  went  where  a  pretty  young  woman  of  twenty 
years  sat  crocheting,  while  the  bab)-  slept  in  his  petatc  cradle  and  the 
husband  lay  sick  on  his  humble  cot  in  the  corner.  She  cordially  wel- 
comed me,  and  when  I  was  seated,  he,  though  feeble  and  trembling, 
raised  himself  upon  his  el- 
bow, tendering  me  the  hos- 
pitality of  his  pobrc  casa ; 
then  asked  his  wife  to  pre- 
pare for  me  a  cup  of  coffee 
or  chocolate,  which  she 
did. 

I  condoled  with  him  on 


^    •\^.v;^/jj»"  ,<^^5^^''v  ^^"-^'^^   "-- 


his  illness    and    hoped    he  ■"/'  y    .■       ,/  ;     ^       ' — ; — 

would    soon  be  well.       lo  ^,    ^,    -^^  is;.^Z/',;:.^~>_ 


^^  /y.~f".^^^,,^!;^i^ 


a^'  J 


'^au 


/.■^/. 


^Ta 


A^.'o 


this  he  rejjlied  he  hoped 
so,  but  as  he  had  consump- 
tion, there  was  little  chance 
for  his  recovery  ;  but  if  it 
were  possible,  he  would  like 
to  get  well,  "  in  order  to 
serve  me  the  rest  of  his 
life  !  " 

I  was  agreeably  surpris- 
ed to  find  so  many  sewing- 
machines,  and  that  the  wo- 
men  understand   their  use 

quite  as  well  as  we  do.  A  machine  agent  informed  me  that  the 
women  of  this  class  are  as  prompt  to  meet  their  installments  as 
those  in  any  country.  But  the  price  of  sewing  is  so  very  cheap — only 
one  cent  a  yard — that  they  must  do  a  great  deal  to  render  themselves 
self-sustaining. 

Babies  are  cared  for  with  great  tenderness.  They  are  wrapped 
as  tightly  as  possible  in  "  swaddling-clothes  "  until  about  one  month 
old,  when  the  calzo)icillos   (little    breeches)  are   substituted,   for   both 


424 


FACE     10    FACE    UTI II     HIE    MEXICANS. 


boys  and  girls.  The  accompanying  illustration  represents  a  girl  of 
two  months.  I  asked  the  mother  if  it  were  girl  or  boy.  '' Miijer" 
("  woman  "),  she  answered,  '■'Fclicita  Rodriguez 
criada  dc  V."  Never  was  there  a  more  deli<rhted 
^.'     mother  than  when  I  asked  her  to  hold   the  baby 

until  its  picture  could  be  made. 
\  'WxKCiina  (cradle)  is  a  concomitant  of  every  hum- 

\    ble  dwelling.     It  is  sometimes  suspended  from  the 


"  VOUR    OBEDIENT  SERVANT.' 


ceiling,  but  quite  as  often  it  hangs  under  the 
table.  The  material  of  which  it  is  composed  is 
usLially  palm  or  maguey,  and  its  quaint  little  oc- 
cupant looks  quite  comfortable,  snugly  sleeping 
in  tlie  rcboao,  while  the  cradle  sways  back  and 
forth  of  its  own  accord. 
These    poor  women   are  often    the    mothers  of    such    beauties    as 

would  arouse  envy  in  the  breasts  of  many  aristocratic  parents.     Miguel 

Mondregon,  whose  picture  is  here  given,  was  one   of  these  children. 

His  mother  was  a  cook.     We  met  him   in 

the  street    in  Tacubaya   on    the    opening 

of    the    feast    of    Candlemas,    and    when     I 

asked  his  name,  he  gave  it,  taking  off  his 

hat,  as  seen    in  portrait,  which  is  an    ex- 
cellent likeness  of   him,  and  saying:  "El 

criado  de  ]'."      His  style   of  dress  is  typ- 
ical   of    his    class.       No    urchin   was  ever 

happier  than    he    when    paid    his    real  y 

medio  (i8    cents)   to   stand,  hat   in    hand, 

while  being  sketched. 

His  cheeks  and  lips  were  like  cherries;     { 

his    mouth    a    perfect    Cupid's  bow ;    his 

complexion    brown  as   a  frijole ;   and  his 

eyes  great,   soft,    melting,    glorious    orbs. 

An  old  woman,  standing  near,  liearing  our 

comments  upon  his  beauty,  remarked  : 


'fUacJ/^i'>i\'^i^^^^^ 


V      i 


MORE  ABOUT    THE    COMMON  PEOPLE.  425 

"  Yes,  he  is  a  beauty  now,  but  wait  till  he  is  twelve  or  fourteen 
years  old,  and  he  will  be  mas  scrio,"  meanini^  that  he  lost  his 
spiritucllc  expression  and  became  coarse  and  sallow.  Pity  it  is  that 
this  loveliness  is  so  evanescent. 

The  cvangclistas  (letter-writers)  have  a  distinct  position  to  them- 
selves. They  subserve  a  valuable  purpose  to  the  great  army  of  ser- 
vants and  low-class  people,  who,  through  them,  carry  on  a  correspond- 
ence with  their  lovers.  With  a  board  on  his  knees,  or  perhaps  some- 
times a  plain  little  table,  and  a  big  jug  of  ink,  and  pen  behind  the 
ear,  the  cvangclista  is  ready  to  serve  his  customers.  Anxious  lovers 
stand  around  awaiting  his  leisure,  the  desire  to  transmit  their 
sentiments  making  his  services  in  high  demand.  Note  paper,  va- 
riously shaped,  is  at  hand,  and  for  a  medio  or  real,  a  letter  is  fur- 
nished that  will  be  expressive  of  grief,  jealousy,  love,  and  overweening 
affection. 

Lovi-letter  writlcn  by  "  tin  evangelista." 

Apreciable  SeSorita. 

Ouisiera  tener  el  lenguaje  de  los  angeles  ;  la  dulce  inspiracion  de  un  poeta  ;  6 
la  elocuencia  de  un  Ciceron,  para  expresarme  en  terminos  dignos  de  Vd.  Pero  por 
desgracia  mi  mente  la  cubre  el  velo  de  la  ignorancia,  y  no  puedo  menos  que  tomarme 
la  libertad  de  revelar  a  Vd.  mis  aficciones  ;  pues  desde  el  primer  dia  que  tuve  la 
dicha  de  conocer  a  Vd.,  la  calma  ha  huido  de  mi,  y  dominado  por  la  pacion  mas 
violenta,  me  adverbio  a  decir  4  Vd.  que  la  Amo,  con  el  amor  mas  puro  y  berdadero,  y 
que  aun  me  parece  con  esta  declaracion  que  hago  a  Vd.  de  mi  amor,  que  no  supera 
el  ardor  que  mi  triste  y  afligido  corazon  sufre,  mientras  tanto  obtengo  la  contesta- 
cion  de  Vd.  quedo  impaciente  por  saber  el  layo  de  vida  6  de  muerte  que  d^  Vd.  'a. 
su  apasionado. 

Es  cuaiito  le  dice  4  Vd.  quien  4  sus  pies  besa. 

Manuel  Gomez  v  Suarez. 

Yfranslation.^ 

Esteemed  Senorita. 

Would  that  I  iiossessed  the  language  of  the  angels,  the  sweet  inspiration  of  a 
poet,  or  the  eloquence  of  a  Cicero,  that  I  might  then  express  myself  in  a  manner 


426  FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

worthy  of  you.  But  alas  !  my  intellect,  my  brains,  seem  veiled  in  ignorance,  and  I 
cannot  resist  taking  the  liberty  ol"  revealing  my  love,  my  affection.  When  I  first 
had  the  happiness  of  meeting  you,  my  peace  of  mind  fled,  and  governed  solely  by  the 
most  violent  passion  for  you,  I  dare  tell  you  I  love  you,  with  a  love  most  pure,  most 
true,  and  notwithstanding  this  declaration  of  my  love  you  will  not  even  then  realize 
what  mv  sad,  afflicted  heart  suffers  until  your  answer  reaches  me.  I  impatiently 
await  your  fiat,  whether  of  life  or  death,  to  your  devoted,  passionate  one. 
Meanwhile  1  say  to  you,  that  I  kiss  your  feet. 

Manuel  Gomez  v  Su.^rez. 

A  character  which  must  be  considered  in  the  light  of  a  nuisance, 
is  to  be  found  in  both  sexes  all  over  the  country.  Plausible  and 
gifted  with  all  the  "suavidad  en  cl  inodo  "  of  their  betters,  they  ply 
their  vocation  in  the  street,  as  well  as  in  private  houses.  If  in  the 
street,  they  come  upon  you  unawares.  Suddenly  brown  fingers  are 
thrust  under  your  nose,  holding  a  comb,  a  toy,  jewelry  or  a  piece  of 
dry  goods  or  embroidery.  You  dare  not  even  look  at  it,  or  feign  the 
least  knowledge  of  their  presence,  for  if  you  should  do  so,  they  will 
haunt  and  pursue  you  for  squares  without  ceasing.  Enter  a  store, 
and  be  ever  so  much  interested  in  the  purchase  of  some  article  or 
textile  fabric,  here  comes  the  irrepressible  vender  and  again  puts  the 
article  in  your  face,  this  time  with  a  great  reduction  in  price. 

Another  class  with  which  strangers  are  sure  to  be  annoyed,  are 
the  women  with  black  shawls  drawn  tightly  about  their  heads  and 
faces;  neat  calico  dresses,  cat-like  tread,  though  invariably  in  a  hurry, 
and  with  the  most  benignant  expression  on  their  countenances.  If  in 
your  house,  they  approach  you  most  luimbly,  with  many  kindly  in- 
quiries after  the  health  of  the  family  in  general,  and  as  to  how  the  night 
has  been  passed.  While  doing  this,  the  shawl  goes  slightly  back,  re- 
vealing some  article  of  needlework,  a  handsome  shawl,  silk  dress,  or 
whatever  else  they  may  choose  for  gulling  you.  A  long  history  of 
the  article  follows,  ending  by  a  high  price  being  asked  for  it.  You 
don't  want  it,  so  the  price  is  reduced  until  perhaps  you  look  a  little 
more  inclined  ;  but  at  last  no  sale  is  effected.  She  goes  away  ap- 
parently much   disappointed  and  almost  with  tears  in  her  eyes.     But 


MORE   ABOUT   THE    COMMON  PEOPLE. 


427 


be  patient  !    she  will    come  again    with  softer  tread,   and  with    such 
honeyed  words  as  will  surely  win  their  way. 

She  makes  her  appearance  the  second  time  with  a  handsome  tray 
in  hand,  on  which  rest  several  kinds  of  tempting  dukes.  These  she 
tells  you  have  been  sent  by  Dofia  So-and-So,  also  naming  the  street; 


CRADLE    OK    A    POOR    BABY. 


that  she  has  heard  you  are  a  stranger,  and  sends  these  as  a  token  of 
her  regard. 

Nothing  remains  but  to  accept  them  with  many  thanks  for  her 
interest,  and  the  hope  that  she  will  soon  call  on  you. 

The  next  day  the  thoughtful  woman  again  enters,  with  a  humility 
of  manner  that  even  Uriah  Heep  could  not  excel.  She  makes  all 
manner  of  inquiry  as  to  the  health  of  each  inmate  of  the  household. 
She  then  states  that  it  was  a  mistake  about  the  remlo  she  had  brought 


428  FACE   TO  FACE   WITH  THE  MEXICANS. 

a  day  or  two  before  (of  course  you  have  long  since  eaten  thein)  ;  that 
the  Dona  told  her  to  sell  them  at  a  certain  house,  and  she  had  made 
the  mistake.  You  ask  her  the  price,  that  being  the  only  alternative, 
and  it  is  a  startling  one.  She  is  paid,  and  perhaps  never  again 
appears  in  your  house,  but  she  has  amply  paid  you  off  for  not  buying 
the  first  article  she  offered. 

Happily  these  people  do  not  exist  in  great  numbers,  and,  though 
incorrigible  wherever  found,  strangers  soon  discover  their  transparent 
tricks. 

The  rcbozo  is  the  boon  of  all  these  women,  as  they  can  carry 
securely  concealed  any  number  of  articles  without  being  detected  by 
human  eyes. 

The  rcbcso  also  often  assists  in  making  the  head  of  the  wearer 
assume  a  ludicrous  shape.  Take  a  rear  view,  as  the  women  sit 
cuddled  up  in  groups  of  several  dozen,  or  even  hundreds,  on  the 
celebration  of  some  feast,  and  with  the  flickering  lights  of  a  thousand 
torches  dancing  over  their  tightly  drawn  head-gear,  the  resemblance 
to  a  school  of  seals,  with  their  heads  peeping  out  of  the  water,  could 
not  be  more  perfect. 

The  iiiolcndcra  is  a  woman  who  docs  the  grinding  on  the  Dictaic. 
whether  corn  for  toi'tillas,  coffee,  or  spices.  Should  the  nwlcndcra  set 
up  an  establishment  of  her  own,  and  make  tortillas  for  sale,  or,  as  is 
sometimes  the  case,  go  at  certain  hours  each  day  and  make  them  for 
families,  she  then  becomes  a  tortillcra. 

These  tortillcras  are  a  separate  and  distinct  class,  and  have  their 
own  rules  and  regulations  for  conducting  business.  They  employ  ten 
or  a  dozen  women,  who  grind  the.  corn  and  make  the  tortillas.  When 
made,  the  women  who  sell  them  in  the  markets  and  streets  come 
with  their  baskets  and  take  them  away,  paying  wholesale  rates. 

The  proprietress  of  the  establishment  is  called  the  patrona,  and 
the  Queen  of  Sheba  never  moved  about  with  more  dignity  and  con- 
sequence. 

She  pays  her  employes  each  day  a  real  y  medio,  I  have  made 
it    convenient    to    drop    in    at    the    hour    for   settling  up  with  them. 


MORE   ABOUT   THE   COMMOX  PEOPLE. 


429 


She  has  a  little  chair  or  stool  before  lier,  herself  unostentatiously 
occupying  the  space  in  front  of  it  on  the  floor.  The  real  in  silver, 
and  six  cents  in  tlacos  for  each  "  grinder,"  are  laid  in  little  piles,  each 
one  being  named  for  the  woman  to  whom  it  is  to  be  paid.  The 
patrona  sits  by  and  looks  on  serenely  after  counting  over  and  over  the 
piles,  with  satisfaction  and  self-importance  emanating  from  her,  and 
expressing  in  unspoken  language — "You  poor  contemptible  'grind- 
ers^ you  have  no  position  !  " 

Jay  Gould,  in  his  mansion  on  Fifth  Avenue,  when  reflecting  on  his 


^^ 


A     TORTILLA    ESTABLISHMENT. 


enormous  investments,  could  not  feel  more  remote  from  the  toiling 
multitude  in  the  street  beneath  him  than  the  patrona  of  the  tortilla 
establishment  feels  her  superiority  to  her  subordinates. 

I  never  went  into  one  of  these  places  without  being  most  cordially 
invited  to  be  seated.  On  accepting  the  invitation,  an  animated  con- 
versation would  follow,  while  eating  the  delicious  hot  tortillas,  fresh 
from  the  smoking  comal,  and  admiring  the  animated  bronze  statuettes 
that  ambled  and  capered  about  without  even  the  disguise  of  a  fig  leaf. 

Invariably  they  desired  to  know  my  nationality.    If  I  told  them  to 


430 


FACE    TO  FACE    WITH   THE  MEXICANS. 


guess,   they  were   sure    to   say  France,  Andalusia,  or   Spain,  but  "  an 
American   never  !  " 

The  portrait  of  Gregoria  Queros  represents  one  of  these  function- 
aries, and  also  the  pure  type  of  an  Indian  that  she  is.  One  might 
■easily  imagine  her  to  be  the  mother  of  a  hero,  not  only  by  her  face, 
but  also  by  her  conversation. 

On  entering  her  house,  she  began  by  asking  the  usual  question,  and 
guessing  I  was  from  France.  But  when  told  I  was  an  American,  she 
turned  her  head  doubtfully  to  one  side,  as  if  in  reflection.  The  silence 
was  broken  by  m.y  asking  her: 

"  What  do  you  think  of  the  Americans  !  "  and  tlie  somewhat 
startling  reply  came : 

"  Los  Americanos  son  como  los  Indios  barharos  "  (  "  The  Americans 
are  the  same  as  wild  Indians"). 

"  Why  do  you  say  that  ?  "   I  asked. 

"  Because,"  she  answered,  ''  in  1847,  when  I  was  sixteen  years  old, 
they  came  down  here  and  fought  terrible  battles  all  over  this  country. 

Just  think  of  Chapultepec, 
Molino  del  Rey,  and  Churu- 
busco  ;  ah  !  what  sad  days 
those  were  to  us ! " 

"  Well,"  I  added  (en- 
deavoring to  recall  her  from 
reflections  so  painful),  "  what 
other  objections  have  you  to 
them  ?  " 

"  They  are  never  satisfied. 
They  always  want  more  land 
and  more  money.  This  is 
what  tlicy  live  for." 

During     this      interesting 

colloquy    she     preserved     a 

politely  respectful  demeanor, 

GRECOR.A  Qu.Ros.  snd  fclt  cvldcntly  pained  to 


MORE   ABOUT    THE    COMMON  PEOPLE.  43 1 

be  compelled  to  tell  me  such  absolute  truths.  A  sharp  neurali^ic  pain 
in  her  face  brouijht  forth  a  moan  and  a  sigh,  when  she  explained  that 
for  a  whole  }ear  she  had  never  been  able  to  go  for  one  day  without 
the  handkerchief  on  her  head. 

I  asked  her  if  she  knew  President  Diaz. 

"Who?  Porfirio  ?  I  don't  know  him  personally,  but  he  has 
the  reputation  of  being  a  very  good  and  brave  man  ;  but — -he  has 
already  been  married  twice." 

I  could  only  infer  that  his  bravery  and  courage  would  vanish,  if  he 
should  ever  try  matrimony  again.  I  never  found  either  a  man  or 
woman  of  that  class,  who  spoke  of  the  president  by  any  other  than 
his  Christian  name. 

The  lavandera  is  an  important  outside  servant.  Owing  to  the 
construction  of  the  houses,  in  part,  and  to  the  fact  of  the  water 
being  conveyed  to  them  from  the  city  fountains,  washing  is  rarely 
done  on  the  premises. 

The  lavandcras  also  have  their  own  rules  and  regulations,  and  are 
as  rigid  in  exacting  the  observance  of  them  by  their  subordinates  and 
satellites  as  any  other  class. 

In  some  cities  and  towns  the  lavandera  is  not  also  \.\\c  planckadora. 
She  does  not  even  starch  the  clothes,  but  is  supplied  with  soap  for 
the  washing.  At  those  places  presided  over  by  a  patrona,  the 
contract  is  taken  for  all,  but  the  custom  is  to  charge  by  the  piece 
and  never  by  the  dozen.  But  in  the  smaller  towns  and  cities  she 
will  receive  a  rca/  a  dozen  for  washing  alone,  having  soap  fur- 
nished. 

When  she  returns  them,  the  plancliadora  comes,  counts,  and,  on 
being  supplied  with  starch  and  coal  or  wood,  again  takes  them  away 
to  finish  the  job.  There  is,  however,  an  agreeable  offset  to  all  this 
— the  plancliadora  is  also  the  apuntar ;  she  mends  carefully  every 
article  requiring  it  before  taking  her  work  home. 

At  the  capital  there  are  laundries  inside  the  houses  where  lavandc- 
ras may  go  and  rent,  for  a  medio  a  day,  a  compartment  of  brick  in 
which  the  water  flows  from  a  fountain. 


432 


FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


i:i:lill5i,i'''i''l  '^ 


WASH-HOUSE   AT  THE    CAPITAL. 


Springs  usually  burst  from   some  steep  declivity  of  the  neighbor- 
ing mountains,  and    not   infrequently  in    the    descent    to  valley  and 

lowland  the 
water  circles 
and     winds 


about  through 
the  adjacent 
trees.  In  such 
desirable  loca 
tions  are  the 
spots  coveted 
^-^  .  by  the  lai'an- 
^^.;C^'  deras.      bome- 

^C /-  times    for    the 

distance  of  two 
miles    they 

may   be  seen    like  a  bright   fringe  along   the  edge  of  the  stream,  in 

costumes    which    would 

delight    a    painter    in 

search  of   the  unconven- 
tional. 

On     these     occasions 

their    hair    is    unbraided 

and    hangs    in    a    superb 

mass    of    rippling  waves 

to   the    end.      The    only 

dress  is  a  red  woolen  pet- 
ticoat   and   the    chemise, 

both  of  which  serve  only 

to    enhance     the    classic 

beauty  of  form  disclosed 

by  the  peculiar  costume. 

Six   or  seven    days  of   the    week,  kneeling  in    graceful   attitudes, 

these  laundresses  may  be  seen  expending  their  tireless  energy  on  the 


WASHERUUME.N'    IN    THH    iTOrNTKY. 


MORE    ABOUT    THE    CO  MM  OX  PEOPLE. 


433 


ropa  (clothes).  Armed  with  the  crude  washinj^  equipments  of  the 
ancient  Egyptians — only  a  stone  slab,  or  at  best  a  wooden  tray  resem- 
bling our  bread-trays — they  make  their  week's  washing  whiter  than 
the  whitest.  However  it  is  accomplished,  the  fact  remains  that  with- 
out boiling,  washing-soda,  washboard,  tub  or  bucket,  and  even  in 
many  cases  without  soap,  this 
perplexing  branch  of  domestic 
life  is  brought  to  perfection. 

The  agiiador  is  the  most 
noted  of  all  the  classes  who 
serve  outside  the  residence.  As 
there  are  few  houses  furnished 
with  pipes,  the  water  supply  is 
transported  by  this  functionary. 

His  costume  is  peculiar  to 
himself  and  well  adapted  to  his 
vocation.  It  varies  in  every 
province.  That  worn  in  the  City 
of  Mexico  is  the  most  pictur- 
esque, and  deserves  a  descrip- 
tion. Over  a  shirt  and  drawers 
of  common  domestic  he  wears 
a  jacket  and  trousers  of  blue 
cloth  or  tanned  buckskin.  The 
latter  are  turned  up  nearly  to  the 
knee.  With  his  leathern  helmet, 
broad  leather  strap  across  his  forehead,  called  fronicra  (from  which 
depends  the  chochocol,  or  water-vessel),  leathern  apron,  and  sandals  of 
the  same,  called  guarachi,  vie  m\ght  imagine  him  to  be  a  man  in  armor, 
so  completely  is  he  enveloped   in   this  substantial  equipment. 

The  piece  that  covers  the  back,  and  on  which  the  chochocol  rests,  is 
called  rcspaldadcra,  or  back-rest  ;  that  which  reaches  from  the  waist  to 
the  knee,  dclantal  or  apron ;  and  that  which  protects  the  thigh,  the 
rosadera.     All    these    pieces  are    fastened  by    means  of  thongs  to   a 


W  ATt-'k  LAKPIER. 


434  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH   THE   MEXICANS. 

leather  waistcoat,  which  serves  to  support  and  balance  the  large  jar. 
Both  jars  are  attached  to  straps  which  cross  on  the  head  over  a  palm- 
leaf  cap  with  leather  visor.  It  is  essential  that  these  vessels  corre- 
spond in  size  and  perfectly  balance.  If  either  be  suddenly  broken, 
the  aguador  at  once  loses  his  balance  and  falls  to  the  ground. 

On  the  opposite  side  to  the  rosadcra  he  carries  a  deerskin  pouch 
called  barrcga,  adorned  with  figures.  This  pouch  serves  for  carrying 
the  nickel  coins  and.  pitolcs,  or  small  red  beans  with  which  he  keeps  an 
account  of  the  number  of  trips  he  makes,  being  paid  at  the  end  of  a 
week  or  fortnight,  according  to  the  number  of  beans  he  leaves  at  a 
house.  He  also  keeps  a  corresponding  "tally-sheet"  with  beans,  and 
compares  notes  with  his  employer  when  being  paid. 

The  aguador  is  a  person  of  importance  ;  nobody  knows  better  than 
he  the  inner  life  of  the  household  that  he  serves.  He  is  often  made 
the  messenger  between  lovers,  and  when  for  any  reason  he  may  refuse 
to  perform  that  office,  the  ingenious  lover  resorts  to  artifice,  and  by 
means  of  wax  fastens  the  missive  upon  the  bottom  of  the  clwclwcol, 
and  the  wwzo\\i,z\o\i?,  agitador  thus  conveys  it  to  the  expectant  fair  one, 
who  informed  of  the  device,  is  ready  to  remove  the  epistle.  He  often 
wonders  why  the  young  mistress  comes  out  so  early  in  the  morning 
to  meet  him,  and  that  he  so  frequently  finds  her  lover  standing  at  the 
door  of  his  house. 

The  (7f;/rt(^/i9r  scarcely  ever  dines  at  home.  His  wife  meets  him  with 
a  basket  covered  with  a  napkin  at  the  entrance  to  some  house,  and 
there,  together  with  his  children  and  companions,  he  dines  with  good 
appetite  and  without  annoyance  of  an}'  kind.  Then  he  goes  to  the 
fountain  where  lie  is  accustomed  to  draw  water,  frees  himself  of  his 
jars,  and  stretches  himself  in  the  shade  to  take  his  siesta  ;  or  he 
spends  the  rest  of  the  day  at  some  pulque  shop,  playing  a  game 
called  "  raycula  "  with  his  companions,  or  repeating  pleasantries  and 
proverbs  to  the  maids  that  happen  to  pass  near  him,  and  drinking 
pulque.  But  in  the  midst  of  this  monotony,  they  also  have  their 
days  of  enjoyment,  their  days  of  merriment  and  diversion.  The  feast 
of  the  Holy  Cross   arrives,  and   when   day  begins   to  daw  n,  they  burn 


MORE  ABOUT    THE   COMMON  PEOPLE.  435 

an  endless  number  of  rockets  and  bombs,  which  they  call  saiva  or 
salute. 

When  the  sun  rises,  the  sign  of  the  cross  has  been  already  placed 
on  the  spring  of  the  fountain,  or  in  the  center,  if  the  fountain  is  in  a 
public  square.  The  said  crosses  are  adorned  with  rosaries  or  chains  of 
poppies  and  ccnipazuchitl.  On  that  day  the  water-men  bathe,  dress 
themselves  in  their  holiday  clothes  and  go  to  dine  in  community,  eat- 
ing heartily  and  drinking  white  and  prepared  pulque  the  greater 
part  of  the  day. 

One  of  the  poor  waterman's  joys  is  the  Saturday  of  Passion  Week, 
or  Sabado  dc  Gloria  :  but  this  day  is  not  so  animated  as  the  former, 
for  it  is  confined  to  strewing  flowers  on  the  water  of  the  fountain  and 
burning  an  image  representing  their  profession. 

The  following  account  of  the  superstitious  beliefs  of  the  Nahoan 
Indians  is  taken  from  Mexico  d  traves  de  los  Siglos.  They  had  sin- 
gularly materialistic  views  in  regard  to  death.  They  believed  that 
Mictlan  (literally  hell)  was  reached  b)-  the  dead  after  a  long  and  painful 
journey.  Their  hieroglyphics  indicate  that  the  dead  must  first  cross 
the  Apanohuaya  river,  and  to  do  this  it  was  necessary  to  have  the  aid 
of  a  little  yellow  dog  (tcchiclih  with  a  cotton  string  tied  around  his 
neck,  which  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  dead.  Dogs  of  no  other 
color  could  be  used,  as  neither  white  nor  black  dogs  could  cross  the 
river.  The  white  ones  would  say,  "  I  have  been  washed,"  while  the 
black  ones  rejoined,  "  I  have  been  stained."  These  dogs  were 
reared  by  the  natives  for  this  special  purpose,  and  the  teclnelii 
is  that  well-kno'vn  favorite  among  perros,  now  called  the  Chihua- 
hua dog. 

After  crossing  the  river,  the  dog  led  his  master,  devoid  of  clothing, 
between  two  mountains  that  were  constantly  clashing  together,  then 
over  one  covered  with  jagged  rocks,  and  then  over  eight  hills  upon 
which  snow  was  ever  falling,  on  through  eight  deserts  where  the  winds 
were  as  sharp  as  knives.  After  this  he  led  him  through  a  path  where 
arrows  were  flying  continually  ;  and,  worst  of  all,  he  encountered  a 
tiger  that  ate  out  his  heart,  when  he  fell  into  a  deep,  dark,  foaming 


436 


FACE    TO   FACE    UFTIf    THE    MEXICANS. 


river,  filled  with  lizards,  after  which  he  appeared  before  the  Kiny  of 
Mictlan,  when  his  tortuous  journey  was  ended  and  his  identity  ceased. 
It  was  also  a  belief  that  when  the  body  began  this  journey  it  must 
have  been  buried  for  a  period  of  four  years.  In  this  belief  it  was  not 
the  soul,  but  the  body  in  actuality  that  made  the  mysterious  jour- 
ney. 

For  those  who  enjoy  euphonious  names,  I  will  state  that  the  name 
of  the  last  stopping  place  was  ''Izinictlanapochcalocca,  on  which  the 
alligator  Xochitonal  is  encountered  ;  the  alligator  is  the  earth's  symbol 
and  Xochitonal  the  last  day  of  the  year,  which  shows  the  body  here 
reached  the  last  stage  of  its  existence  and  became  dust  of  the 
earth." 

When  the  two  are  united  we  see  readily  the  connecting  link  in 
their  ideas  :  that  at  the  end  of  a  certain  time  the  body  is  converted 
into  dust,  and  the  dead  are  finished  forever. 

The  Milk  Tree  for  Dead  Children—/^/  Arbol  dc  Lcchc  dc  los  Nifws- 

Mucrtos,  embodies  another  super- 
stitious  tradition  of  the  Nahoa 
Indians,  which  was  the  existence 
of  a  mansion  where  children 
went  after  death.  This  was 
called  Chilutacuaulico,  from  a 
tree  which  was  supposed  to  grow 
there,  from  the  branches  of 
which  milk  dropped  to  nourish 
the  children  which  clung  to 
them.  It  was  believed  that 
these  children  would  return  to 
populate  the  world  after  the 
race  which  then  inhabited  it 
had  passed  away 
among  the  Me.xican  lower  classes, 
though  without  this  post-mortem  materialism,  are  quite  as  strong  and 
as  closely  adhered  to.     They  are  almost   numberless,  and    the   most 


mm 


^^^^r/A^ 


A    CKLESTIAL    MONOPOLY. 


The   superstitions    of    to-day 


MORE   ABOrr    THE    COMMON    PEOPLE.  437 

insignificant  lias  its  own  place,  not  to  be  substituted  by  any  other. 
Evidences  of  this  appear  in  the  performance  of  tlie  simplest  duty. 
Let  them  begin  to  make  a  fire,  and  the  first  movement  is  to  make 
the  sign  of  the  cross  in  the  air  before  the  range  ;  or  if  about  to  cook 
any  such  articles  as  tortillas,  many  of  them,  as  preliminary,  make  the 
cross  and  utter  a  few  words  of  prayer.  The  moon  has  much  to  do 
with  these  fancies,  and  many  of  their  individual  failings  are  laid  to 
the  account  of  that  luminary. 

These  are  carried  with  humorous  effect  into  the  smallest  minutise 
of  household  labors.  In  killing  fowls,  they  pull  the  head  off,  then 
make  the  sign  of  the  cross  with  the  neck  on  the  ground,  and  laying 
the  chicken  on  the  place,  declare  it  cannot  jump  about  ;  but  I  noticed 
they  always  held  it  firmly  on  the  cross. 

Many  of  them  keep  a  light  burning  both  day  and  night  in  their 
houses.  In  the  majority  of  instances,  the  light  is  merely  a  wax  taper 
placed  in  a  glass  half  filled  with  water,  with  a  little  oil  on  the  top. 
Beside  the  taper  a  cross  is  fixed. 

On  one  occasion,  I  went  into  a  tortilla  establishment  where  were 
eight  or  ten  women  grinding  corn,  and  seeing  the  light  1  asked  the 
patroiia  why  she  kept  this  light  burning. 

"Because,"  she  answered,  "I  want  God  and  all  his  saints  to  keep 
this  house  from  evil  spirits.  We  have  to  work  very  hard  all  day,  and 
when  this  light  is  burning  they  dare  not  come  near." 

"  Do  you  keep  it  burning  always?  "  said  I. 

"  Yes,  always  ;  without  it  we  would  be  in  total  darkness."  Then, 
turning  to  me,  she  asked  : 

"  Have  you  not  God  and  saints  in  your  countr)'?" 

"  Yes ;  but  we  believe  that  God  will  protect  us  without  the 
light,  and  we  do  not  depend  on  the  saints ;  "  which  ended  the  col- 
loquy. 

I  have  been  at  times  much  impressed  with  the  seriousness  and 
sentiment  so  evidently  underlying  these  little  superstitious  actions. 
The  old  tainalcra,  the  music  of  whose  grito  appears  in  these  pages, 

came  to  our  house  the  evening  I  left  the  capital.       She    released  her 

28 


438  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

burden  from  her  back,  and  then  began  as  usual  to  chat  with  me,  her 
extreme  age  and  trembUng  frame  appealing  strongly  to  my  sympathies. 
When  I  had  sung  her  grito  over  and  over  with  her,  she  made  the 
sign  of  the  cross  over  the  olla  in  which  she  kept  her  tmnalcs,  then 
crossed  herself,  saying:  "  In  the  name  of  the  Diviiia  Providencia  may 
I  have  enough  customers  to  buy  these  tamales,  that  I  may  go  early  to 
my  home.  I  am  weary  of  trudging  these  streets,  and  mi pobrc  casa  is 
far  away."  Before  leaving,  she  turned  to  me,  and,  with  tears  stream- 
ing down  her  face,  placed  her  hand  on  my  head  and  said  :  "Nina,  you 
leave  us  to-night  to  go  to  your  home,  that  is  far,  far  away  in  another 
land  ;  may  the  Divina  Providencia  take  you  safely  there  ;  may  you 
find  your  people  well,  and  some  day  before  I  die,  may  you  return  to  us 
here,  and  sing  again  with  me  this  grito  !  " 

On  the  feast  of  All  Souls,  they  place  a  table  on  the  sidewalk  con- 
taining such  articles  of  food  as  their  dead  friends  and  relatives  liked 
best — even  to  the  pulque.  When  morning  comes,  it  is,  of  course,  all 
gone,  and  the  donor  is  duly  happy,  because  she  imagines  the  dear 
dead  ones  have  returned  and  partaken  of  their  favorite  food,  when  in 
reality,  mischievous  boys  have  consumed  these  precious  edibles.  On 
this  day  the  various  venders  and  outside  help  come  for  their  gifts, 
just  as  newsboys  come  for  their  contributions  on  New  Year's.  These 
gifts  are  disguised  under  the  name  of  calavcras — skulls.  Each  one 
asks  in  his  own  characteristic  fashion,  the  paper  carrier  in  the  follow- 


Your  faithful  carrier 

Cheerfully  presents  himself. 

Encouraged  by  the  hope 

Of  olitaining  your  favor  : 

You  who  are  a  subscriber, 

Applauded  everywhere 

For  that  sincere  loyalty 

With  which  you  are  accustomed  to  pay  : 

He  only  comes  to  beg  you 

To  fiive  him  his  'Calavera.'" 


.UORE    ABOUT    THE    COMMON  PEOPLE. 


439 


The  curandoa  is  another  outside  household  appendage.  She  is 
the  professional  nurse,  and  as  such  is  faithful,  ready,  and  attentive. 
In  this  capacity  her  services  are  invaluable.  She  may  also  assume  the 
role  of  practicing  physician,  and  with  numerous  remedies  and  herbs  of 
every  kind,  she  becomes  quite  a  power  in  the  land.  There  is  a  world 
of  witchcraft  and  superstition  in  the  practice  of  the  curandcras,  and 
the  common  people  stand  in  great  awe  of  them. 

In  the  rural  districts  their  pharmacy  consists  of  ground  glass, 
beaten  shells,  white  lead,  and  an  infinity  of  herbs.  Their  diagnosis 
embraces  calor  y  frio  (heat  and  cold),  and  their  therapeutics  are 
always  directed  toward 
these  two  conditions.  A 
disease  quite  common 
which  these  women  assume 
to  cure  is  cinpccJic,  a  condi- 
tion where  undigested  food 
adheres  to  some  part  of  the 
stomach.  To  dislodge  the 
einpeche,  they  give  white 
lead  and  quicksilver,  at  fre- 
quent intervals,  in  com- 
pound doses.  For  paraly- 
sis, they  have  been  know  n 
to  give  blue  and  red 
glass  beads,  ground  up 
in  equal  portions,  a  table- 
spoonful  at  a  dose.  Strange 
to  relate,  the  patient  re- 
covered. 

If  a  child  is  slow  in  learning  to  talk,  they  recommend  a  diet  of 
boiled  swallows.  This  is  infallible.  If  he  is  slow  about  walking,  his 
legs  should  be  rubbed  with  dirt.  This  accounts  for  the  fact  that 
pclado  {poor)  children  acquire  the  use  of  their  limbs  sooner  than  those 
of  the  higher  classes. 


VICENTA. 


"/  becatite  a  doctor  by  my  natural  inteltigence.'' 


440  FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE    .1/FX/CA.VS. 

The  portrait  of  Viccnta  gives  an  excellent  idea  of  the  intellectual 
development  of  these  women  doctors.  From  a  conversation  I  held 
with  her,  I  feel  confident  she  had  some  believer  in  "  Altruistic  Faith  " 
as  partner  in  the  practice  of  her  profession  ;  for  when  I  asked  her 
how  she  became  a  doctor,  she  coolly  replied :  "  B)'  my  natural 
intelligence." 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


TO      PUEHLA,    CHOLULA,    SAN    MIGUEL   SESMA,    AND     ORIZABA— ALONT, 
THE    MEXICAN    RAILWAY. 


E    left    the    capital    at    early 
dawn    for    a    visit    to    Puebla 
and   other  places  of  interest,   along 
the    Mexican    or    Vera    Cruz  Rail- 
way, which    penetrates    the    tropic 
glories  of  the  ticrra  calicnte. 

Swiftly  we  sped  along  the  smooth 
rails,  passing  numerous  wayside  shrines, 
where,  in  the  not  remote  past,  earnest 
devotees  halted  for  a  prayer  as  they 
wended  their  way  on  their  knees  to  re- 
new their  vows  at  the  great  temple  of 
Guadalupe.  Picturesque  Indian  bur- 
den-bearers trotted  along  beside  the 
cars,  peering  through  the  windows,  now  and  then  taking  off  a 
hat  or  waving  a  hand  in  salutation  to  some  passing  acquaint- 
ance. 

We  whirled  through  fields  of  maguey,  growing  in  parallel  lines 
which  intersected  each  other.  The  rapid  motion  of  the  train  causing 
these  lines  to  successively  converge  and  diverge,  the  figure  of  a  star 
was  constantly  being  presented,  and  I  could  not  but  be  delighted  in 
fancying  I  saw  pictured  on  these  distant  plains  the  emblem  of  my 
own  great  State. 

At  San   Juan  Teotihuacan  our  nineteenth   century  civilization  in- 


A    BUNCH    OF  GRANIDITAS. 


442 


FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 


trudes  on  that  of  pre-historic  times.  In  this  Mexican  Pompeii 
cemented  floors  and  frescoed  walls  exist  whose  colors  of  green, 
yellow,  and  red  are  exceedingly  brilliant.  A  strange  and  complex 
order  of  architecture,  with  columns  and  frescoed  stonework,  is 
revealed,  and  the  remains  of  temple,  amphitheater,  or  monument 
have  been   partially    e.xhumed.     What    grand    disclosures    await    the 


A   HAY-RICK. 


scientist  when  full  explorations  have  been  made  of  the  buried 
Mecca,  the  ancient  city,  the  temple,  or  place  of  sepulture  of  the 
Toltecs  !  The  Mexican  Government  has  now  placed  the  exhuming 
of  these  wonderful  ruins  under  the  charge  of  Sefior  Leopold  Batres, 
an  enthusiastic  archaeologist,  under  whom  the  work  is  progressing 
satisfactorily. 

At  Apizaco  we  leave  the  main  line  for  Puebla,  distant  thirty 
miles.  The  entire  journey  from  Mexico  consumes  only  six  hours,  and 
the  dust  is  the  sole  drawback  to  this  delightful  trip.  But  even  this 
discomfort  is  largely  mitigated  by  passing  occasionally  through  valleys 
in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  where  the  mind  is  constantly  diverted 
by  new  scenes  and  objects  of  interest.  Among  them  arc  the  peculiar 
corn-cribs  and  hay-ricks,  the  latter  built  in  imitation  of  churches,  with 
cross,  column,  and  spire  in  the  distance,  almost  rivaling  those  of 
stone  and  adobe.  When  at  last  Puebla  is  reached,  the  mind  is  fully 
prepared  to  take  in  all  things  new  and  strange. 


PUEBLA.    CIIOLULA,    SAN  MIGUEL    SESMA,    AND    ORIZABA.      443 


A  fluent  English-speaking  German — interpreter  for  the  hotel — 
assured  us  that  the  "  Casa  de  las  Diligencias  "  was  the  best  house,  and 
we  soon  found  ourselves  in  a  grand  old  convent,  with  corridors  lined 
with  gorgeously  blooming  plants,  while  the  cleanly  spread  tables 
reminded  us  that  we  had  left  Mexico  without  breakfast. 

The  camarista,  with  long  black  hair  a  la  pompadour,  keen,  beady 
eyes  and  rigid  lips,  presented  himself  to  register  us  in  a  book  and 
enroll  us  on  the  big  bulletin.  We  ordered  separate  rooms,  and, 
gathering  up  our  luggage,  he  preceded 
us  and  placed  all  our  chattels  in  one 
apartment. 

"  But  the  other  room — where  is  it  ?  " 
I  asked. 

"  You  have  two  beds,"  he  answered. 

"  Well,  but  we  also  want  two  rooms," 
I  rejoined. 

Snapping  his  eyes,  and  drawing  his 
lips  more  closely  than  ever,  he  mut- 
tered in  a  long-drawn  half  whisper:  "Dos  cuartos  y  ciiatro  camas 
por  das  sefwritas  Americaiias  solitas  !  ]'algainc  Dios  !  "  ("  Two  rooms 
and  four  beds  for  two  senoritas  alone  !  ")  Then,  letting  his  voice 
fall  still  lower,  he  continued  :  "  Que  cosa  ciiriosa  !  "  ("  What  a  curious 
thing  !  ")  This  man  of  business  had  evidently  made  up  his  mind  that 
one  room  with  two  beds  was  the  proper  thing  for  dos  scfioritas 
A  mericanas  solitas. 

The  point  of  difference  being  duly  settled  by  the  administrador, 
we  were  gratified  to  find  in  our  rooms  no  printed  rules,  and  that  he 
with  the  pompadoured  hair  would  have  no  occasion  to  announce, 
like  the  other  camaristas,  ''  Falta  Jabon  y  cerillos"  as  both  soap  and 
matches  were  bountifully  supplied. 

It  was  the  carnival  season  ;  and  from  our  windows  we  had  views 
of  ludicrous  rag-tag  processions  parading  up  and  down,  grotesque 
enough  to  call  forth  smiles  from  a  Niobe.  Before  my  window,  in  a 
pretty  house  with  red-tiled  front,  I  saw  a  seflorita,  from  behind  a  gay 


CORN-CRIH. 


444 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


awning,  wave  her  dainty  fingers  at   her  lover  on   the  sidewalk,  where 
he  stood  at  least  four  hours  daily. 

Puebla  has  a  population  of  one  hundred  thousand,  and  is  one  of 
the  handsomest  and  best-built  cities  on  the  American  continent,  being 
constructed  of  gray  granite.  It  is  the  City  of  Churches — perhaps  more 
emphatically  so  than  many  others  that  have  received  the  name.  The 
schools,  colleges,  and  public  library  are  upon  a  grand  scale.  Public 
benefactions  of  the  highest  order  are  numerous — hospitals  for  chil- 
dren, the   deaf,  dumb,  and  blind,   for  men   and    for   women.     Of  the 


CASA    DE    MATERNIDAU. 


latter,  the  Casa  de  Matcriiidad  (Maternity  Hospital),  the  newest  and 
handsomest,  was  founded  by  a  private  citizen,  who  left  in  his  will  the 
sum  of  $200,000  with  which  to  build  and  furnish  it.  The  material  is 
red  brick  and  white  stone  in  alternate  layers,  and  the  spacious 
interior  is  exquisitely  neat  and  orderly.  Every  possible  comfort  and 
convenience  that  could  be  afforded  in  any  like  institution  anywhere, 
is  here  liberally  dispensed. 

Puebla  enjoys,  and  justly  so,  the  reputation  of  being  the  most 
cleanly  of  all  Mexican  cities.  The  streets,  like  those  of  Mexico,  run 
at  right  angles— north  and   south,  east  and  west — and  are  swept  every 


PUEBLA,    Clio LU LA,    SAN  MIGUEL    SESMA,    AND   ORIZABA.      445 

morning;  the  sidewalks  are  well  paved,  and  all  have  their  individual 
sub-sewers.  They  are  admirably  drained  by  a  slight  incline  towards 
the  middle,  and  at  every  corner  there  is  a  stone  bridge — a  guarantee 
against  overflow  and  in  the  rainy  season  the  consequent  inconveni- 
ence to   pedestrians. 

The  elevation  above  sea  level  is  more  tlian  seven  thousand  feet, 
but  the  climate  is  mild,  and  being  free  from  dampness,  is  far  more 
desirable  than  at  Mexico. 

Like  every  other  Mexican  city,  Puebla  has  a  large  share  of  histor- 
ical associations.  Founded  by  the  Spaniards  in  1531,  it  has  since  that 
time  figured  conspicuously  in  the  stirring  scenes  which  have  occurred 
in  the  country.  One  of  the  most  desperate  encounters  that  took 
place  between  the  French  and  Mexicans  was  here,  and  in  commemora- 
tion of  this  event  has  originated  one  of  the  greatest  national  festivals, 
bearing  the  name  of  Cinco  de  Mayo  (5th  of  May). 

This  city  has  been  called  the  Lov\eII  of  Mexico.  Manufactories  of 
cotton,  blankets,  crockery,  tiles,  glass,  thread,  soap,  matches,  and  hats 
abound.  Some  of  the  latter  were  snowy  white  with  silver  trimmings, 
the  prettiest  I  ever  saw,  and  in  such  numbers  that  every  bare  head 
might  have  been  covered — which  I  regret  to  say  was  not  the  case. 

Puebla  is  called  the  "  City  of  the  Angels."  The  tradition  runs  that, 
in  the  building  of  the  cathedral,  when  the  artisans  ceased  from  their 
labors  at  the  close  of  the  day,  the  angels  continued  the  work  at  night. 
This  building  is  the  central  architectural  feature  of  the  city.  Bishop 
Foster,  on  his  visit  there,  thus  wrote  of  it  to  The  Christian  Advocate : 
"The  cathedral  itself  is  surpassingly  grand  in  every  respect,  quite 
equal  to  its  better-known  and  more  famous  rival  in  the  national  capi- 
tal, and  must  take  rank  among  the  first  twenty  cathedrals  in  the 
world.  It  is  more  chaste  than,  and  quite  as  costly  as,  its  great  com- 
petitor. Its  chapels  and  shrines,  arranged  along  its  transepts,  are  rich 
in  pictures,  images,  and  adornments.  Its  high  altar  is  of  amazing 
proportions,  symmetry  and  elegance ;  filling  the  vast  and  high-arched 
nave,  it  is  most  impressive.  The  choir,  occupying  the  portion  of  the 
nave  in  front,  is  of  elaborate  finish  in  carvings  and  costly  lattices.    The 


446  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

vast  columns  and  capitals  are  of  Mexican  marble,  as  are  all  the  bases 
of  the  altars  throughout.  Everywhere  the  precious  stones  of  Mexico 
rrive  beauty  and  substantial  worth  to  the  interior  of  the  vast  pile. 
.  .  .  It  comes  down  to  us  from  an  age  which  it  is  probable  will  not 
repeat  itself.  .  .  .  The  exterior  is  not  comparable  to  the  interior, 
though  of  vast  and  impressive  appearance,  and  of  the  universal  mix- 
ture of  Spanish  and  Moorish  architecture,  built  of  hewn  granite,  and 
swelling  grandly  above  the  surrounding  structures." 

One  who  appreciates  the  ancient  in  architecture   will  find  ample 


STREET  IN    rUERLA. 


scope  for  the  gratification  of  his  taste  in  Mexico.  Wonderful  masses 
of  stone  are  reared  with  a  grand  and  impressive  simplicity,  and  retain 
their  interest  even  when  stripped  by  time,  change,  and  decay  of  all 
their  once  florid  and  gorgeous  ornamentation.  In  the  last  stage  they 
are  pathetic  and  venerable.  In  one  of  our  rambles  we  came  suddenly 
on  a  convent  through  which  the  street  had  been  cut,  and  high  up  in 
the  niches  and  lecesscs  we  saw  life-sized  statues  and  frescoes  of  great 
beauty. 

We  visited  churches  and  convents,  many  of  which  are  devoted  to 
hospitals  and  other  secular  ])urposes.  At  the  home  of  the  Methodist 
missionary,  in  the  old  building  of  the  Inquisition,  we  saw  niches  built 


PUEBLA,    CIIOLULA,    SAN  MIGUEL    SESMA,    AND    ORIZAB  \.      447 

like  chimneys  into  the  walls.  It  was  horrifying  to  think  that  these 
were  the  identical  places  where  once  unhappy  victims  were  immured 
in  living  tombs. 

A  better  view  is  here  obtained  of  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl 
than  at  Mexico,  the  crater  of  the  former  being  plainly  visible  without 
glasses,  while  the  position  of  his  snow-capped  sleeping  companion  is 
reversed.  At  Puebla  we  have  her  side  view  from  the  feet,  while  at 
Mexico  the  head  is  toward  the  city. 

Pueblanas  enjoy  the  luxury  of  ice  brought  daily  from  these  mount- 
ains. The  ever-faithful  Indian  has  his  own  unique  method  of  trans- 
portation, and  constitutes  himself  the  ice-wagon.  He  first  wraps  the 
ice  in  straw,  and  then,  to  avoid  the  disagreeable  results  of  leakage,  he 
fastens  underneath  the  cargo  large  leaves  of  maguey,  which  form  a 
conduit.  Thus  comfortably  equipped,  these  tireless  creatures  trot  the 
whole  thirty-six  miles,  between  the  hours  of  two  and  ten  in  the  morn- 
ing, receiving  for  their  pnins  and  trouble  one  dollar! 

It  was  a  gala  day  in  Puebla.  The  venders  of  fruit,  fancy  wares, 
flowers,  and  vegetables  had  assembled  from  all  quarters,  in  the  market. 
A  whole  family  from  Cholula  were  there — the  man  and  his  wife  sell- 
ing vegetables.  As  they  had  bright  faces,  we  stopped  to  converse 
with  them.  The  usual  curious  crowd  gathered  about  us,  intent  upon 
hearing  every  word.  Questions  being  in  order,  I  asked  the  Cholulan 
what  he  knew  of  the  Conquest. 

"  Only  what  my  forefathers  have  told  me,"  he  replied. 

"Tell  me,"  I  said,  "what  they  told  you."  He  began  at  once,  and 
related  the  entire  history  without  a  break,  as  handed  down  to  him, 
not  forgetting  to  dwell  upon  the  virtues  and  graces  of  Dona   Maiina. 

"  What  do  you  think  of  Cortez?"  I  asked. 

"When  he  came,  we  were  all  in  darkness" — shutting  his  eyes  to 
suit  the  words  ;  but  he  brought  us  la  lus  de  la  Santa  Cruz — the  light 
of  the  holy  cross. 

Here  I  saw  the  pretty  brown-skinned  Indian  women  of  San  Pablo, 
a  village  in  close  pro.ximity  to  the  city.  Their  dresses  were  of  uncut 
manta,  washed  until  snowy  white.     Kiltings  began  at  the  sides,  falling 


^8  FACE    TO  FACE    Wmi    THE    MEXICANS. 

in  classic  folds,  and  ceasing  near  the  front  in  a  broad  plain  space. 
There  was  no  fullness  in  the  back,  which  seemed  to  add  to  their  ease 
of  movement.  A  broad,  hand-wrought,  bright-colored  sash,  tied  at 
the  side,  held  the  skirt  in  place.  The  chemise  had  a  deep-pointed 
yoke,  elaborately  embroidered  with  various-colored  beads.  They 
wore  on  their  heads  a  kind  of  hood,  also  of  manta,  which  partly  con- 
cealed their  shoulders,  but  left  in  ease  and  freedom  their  exquisitely 
molded  arms.  With  hair  hanging  far  below  the  waist,  in  full  braided 
plaits,  lips  and  cheeks  of  cherry-red,  eyes  softly  glowing,  and  white 
teeth  shining,  the  whole  twenty  that  we  saw  would  have  made  a  gor- 
geous picture,  but  my  efforts  to  procure  even  one  portrait  were  un- 
availing, owing  to  their  inherited  prejudices.  As  they  passed  before 
us  in  close  Indian  file,  with  hardly  a  hair's-breadth  space  between 
them,  all  stepping  as  lightly  as  sylphs,  under  their  burdens  of  fruits 
and  vegetables,  each  one  spoke  to  me,  and  in  answer  to  my  inquiries, 
gave  me  a  kindly  "  adios,  niiia." 

As  but  little  is  known  to  the  outside  world  of  the  vast  resources  of 
the  state  and  city  of  Puebla,  I  append  the  translation  of  a  letter  on 
this  subject  to  El  Diario  del  Hogar,  a  paper  published  at  the  capital : 

"  Excepting  the  capital  of  the  republic,  Puebla  is  the  city  which 
has  most  railroad  stations,  there  being  at  present  six,  ample  and  well 
built — namely,  the  Mexican  ;  that  of  the  line  of  Izucorde  Matamorqs; 
that  of  the  Texmelucan  line  :  that  called  San  Marcos  ;  that  of  the 
Carboniferous  Zone  ;  and  the  Urbano,  or  city  line.  In  its  neighbor- 
hood the  city  has  coal  on  the  ranches  of  Santa  Barbara;  it  has  the 
inexhaustible  quarry  on  the  hill  of  Guadalupe,  from  which  have  come 
the  pavements,  houses,  palaces,  churclies,  and  other  great  or  large 
edifices  in  adjacent  towns.  This  stone  is  dark  and  of  a  very  fine 
grain.  Further,  Puebla  has  a  quarry  on  the  hill  of  Loreto,  from 
which  is  taken  a  soft  stone  called  xalncnen,  used  in  building.  There 
is  the  kaolin  which  supplies  the  factories  of  Puebla,  where  are  manu- 
factured the  tiles  that  were  known  as  talancra.  There  is  a  very 
fine  clay  for  red  earthenware  and  brick,  which  supplies  the  potteries 
in    the  suburb  of  La  Luz,  and  the   eighty-nine  kilns   for  making  the 


PCEBLA,    C//OLULA,    SAX  MIGUEL    SESMA,  AND    ORIZABA.       449 

Roblano  brick,  which  is  known  to  have  the  consistency  of  stone,  and 
the  greater  part  of  the  plain  on  which  the  city  is  built  is  of  a  calca- 
reous nature.  There  is  abundance  of  chalk,  or  marl,  for  making  lime, 
and  this  is  manufactured  in  more  than  sixty  kilns  which  run  the  year 
long.  There  is  also  another  quarry  at  a  league's  distance,  whence 
comes  in  great  abundance  the  stone  called  chiliica  in  the  capital. 
From  the  river  Tetlaxcuafar,  which  traverses  the  city,  and  from  the 
full-flowing  Atoyac,  half  a  league  away,  is  taken  gravel  in  abundance, 
and  divers  sorts  of  sand  for  building  purposes.  Three  leagues  off 
plenty  of  iron  is  found  and  a  large  foundry  is  kept  running,  there  being 
others  for  bronze  in  Puebla.  The  neighboring  mountains  of  Ualintze, 
of  Tepenene  and  Tepozuchitl  furnish  the  town  with  wood  and  some 
charcoal.  The  city  has  sweet  water  and  sulphur  water,  and  sundry  lit- 
tle streams  which  all  the  year  nourish  the  farming  and  gardening  lands. 

"  Besides  these  elements,  all  of  which  it  seems  almost  an  exaggera- 
tion to  attribute  to  so  restricted  a  territory,  we  must  mention  that  its 
easy  means  of  communication  find  at  a  distance  of  seven  leagues  the 
mountains  of  Tecali  and  Tepeaca,  which  consist  entirely  of  translu- 
cent marble,  fine  and  vari-colored,  which  is  called  '  Mexican  onyx,' 
as  well  as  other  solid  marbles  used  for  pavements.  These  mountains 
of  marble  vvould  suffice  to  build  a  hundred  cities  of  the  size  of  Lon- 
don, Paris,  Pekin,  Vienna,  or  New  York,  without  including  in  the  cal- 
culation the  mountains  of  transparent  marble  of  Tecuantitlan,  in  the 
district  of  Acatlan,  whose  territory  covers  seventy  square  leagues  of 
stone-fields  of  divers  marbles.  The  city  of  Puebla,  instead  of  being 
built  of  dark  granite,  might  consist  of  buildings  of  transparent  mar- 
ble— a  city  unique  on  the  continent :  it  certainly  has  the  material  near 
at  hand. 

"  Brief  reference  might  be  made  to  the  resources  of  Puebla  which 
may  be  made  available  at  reasonable  rates,  by  means  of  the  easy 
modes  of  transport.  The  range  of  coal  of  the  district  of  Acatlan 
commences  at  Tefeji  de  Rodriguez  and  ends  at  the  Pacific  shore  in 
the  State  of  Guerrero,  spreading  over  the  State  of  Oaxaca  until  it 
reaches  Tehuantepec.      To  the  north  of  the  State  extensive  fields  of 


450  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

coal  in  the  district  of  Alatriste  and  that  of  Noreste  los  de  Tezintlan. 
Native  cjuicksilvcr  is  plentiful  in  the  districts  of  Atlixco  and  iMata- 
moros,  and  gold  and  silver  mines  are  worked  clandestinely.  In  the 
districts  of  Tecali  and  Chiantla  lead  abounds  of  a  high  grade.  In 
Chiantla  and  Acatlan  are  iron  mines,  worked  only  on  a  small  scale. 
In  the  district  of  Chalchicomula  exist  abandoned  mines  of  gold  and 
silver,  the  chief  one  being  called  '  La  Preciosa.'  In  the  district  of 
San  Juan  de  los  Llanos  is  the  famous  '  Hucha,'  now  abandoned,  and 
the  '  Cristo.'  In  Tetla  de  Ocampo  are  those  gold  placers  which 
formerly  gave  the  town  the  surname  of  '  The  Golden.'  In  the  same 
district  is  the  tract  of  kaolin  wiiich  gives  life  to  the  manufactory  of 
porcelain  or  stoneware  called  '  cuayuca.'  In  the  district  of  Zacatlan 
one  of  the  cities  furnishes  abundance  of  quicksilver,  and  another  rock 
crystal ;  beyond  Ahuacatlan  there  is  a  mountain,  conical  in  shape, 
known  as  Zitlala,  which  in  the  Nalmail  tongue  means  '  star,'  this 
name  having  been  bestowed  by  the  natives  by  virtue  of  its  brilliancy, 
like  a  sparkling  star,  in  the  rays  of  the  rising  and  the  setting  sun. 
This  is  simply  one  great  rock  crystal,  whose  tiniest  fragments  resem- 
ble diamonds.  In  the  district  of  Huactunango  are  various  mines  of 
gold,  silver,  and  iron,  which  no  one  has  engaged  to  work,  and  in  Tefiji 
are  three  crags  where  emeralds  are  found,  but  wliich  the  natives  of 
the  Zapoteco  race  have  concealed  from  the  eye  of  the  explorer.  As 
a  specimen  of  these  emeralds,  in  a  little  town  in  the  district  of  Cho- 
lula  existed  one  of  these  gems,  three-quarters  of  a  Spanish  yard  in 
length,  which  served  as  the  ara,  or  consecrated  stone,  on  the  altar  of 
the  cliurch.  Maximilian  had  it  in  his  hands,  and  offered  for  it 
$i,OCO,ooo,  which  the  Indians  would  not  accept.  Later,  an  armed 
force  went  to  attack  the  town,  to  capture  this  gem,  which  was  worth 
more  than  $2,ocx),ooo,  but  they  were  repulsed.  In  consequence  of 
this  attempt,  the  Indians  concluded  to  lose  the  emerald  by  design,  to 
protect  it  from  the  covetous.  However,  that  remarkable  treasure 
found  its  way  into  the  hands  of  the  wily  Jesuits.  They,  in  order  to 
secure  it,  promised  eternal  salvation  to  the  dead,  the  living,  and  the 
as  yet  unborn,  in   the  vicinity  of  that  town,  that  they  might  obtain 


PUEBLA,    CHOLULA,    SAN  MIGUEL    SESMA.    AND    ORIZABA.      453 

the  stone  and  cut  it  in  portions  as  they  have  done,  to  sell  it  piece- 
meal beyond  the  seas.  This  is  historical :  it  were  better  the  neigh- 
bors of  the  town  had  received  their  $1,000,000  for  the  jewel,  rather 
than  only  the  hope  of  eternal  glory  for  the  past,  the  present  and  the 
future  crimes  among  them.  An  emerald  of  immense  value  suffered 
Hell  for  those  who  have  sinned  and  who  shall  sin,  giving  them  a  key 
to  open  the  doors  of  Heaven  eternally  at  their  will. 

"  In  the  district  of  Chalchimula  there  are  also  marbles,  and  in  A!a- 
triste  there  are  great  hot  springs  superior  to  those  of  the  capital  of 
Puebla,  and  equal  probably  to  those  of  Aguascalientes  and  of  Atoto- 
nilco  el  Grande,  of  the  State  of  Hidalgo. 

"  Treating  of  the  vegetable  kingdom,  the  districts  of  Huachinango, 
Zacatlan,  Tetela,  Zacapoatla,  Tlalauqui,  and  Tezuitlan  produce  the 
finest  woods  in  the  world,  such  as  the  varieties  of  cedar,  ebony,  the 
mahogany,  zapatillo,  the  oyametl,  pine,  ocotl,  juniperus  sabina,  oak, 
madrono,  bamboo,  a}'acohuite,  liquidambar.  India-rubber  tree,  and 
that  which  yields  the  gum  chitle,  and,  above  all  woods,  the  writing- 
tree,  whose  veins  of  color  upon  a  yellowish  ground  form  monograms, 
flourished  letters,  abbreviated  words,  and  a  thousand  capricious  figures 
and  profiles.  This  wood  has  been  adjudged,  at  the  Expositions  of 
Vienna,  Paris,  and  Philadelphia,  the  finest  from  the  five  continents. 
In  the  districts  of  Acatlan,  Chiuatla,  and  Matamoros,  belonging  to  this 
State,  to  the  southward,  are  produced  the  aloe,  silk-cotton  tree,  log- 
wood, tamarind,  huizaclia  (a  species  of  acacia),  mczqidt,  vcncnillo,  tlal- 
huate,  huaje,  and  other  woods  with  Mexican  names,  whose  qualities 
and  duration  leave  nothing  to  be  desired.  Some  of  the  trees  produce 
the  most  exquisitely  fragrant  gums,  known  as  myrrh,  incense,  and  co- 
pat/e,  besides  the  rich  essence  of  the  aloe.  The  yellow  dye  known  as 
Zacatlaxcatl,  so  highly  prized  in  China,  Cochin-China.Tartary,  and  Ja- 
pan, is  abundantly  produced  in  these  districts  and  in  Tecamachalco 
andTelmacan.  The  palm  which  is  used  for  mats  and  common  hats  is 
produced  in  the  districts  of  Tepip,  Tepeaca,  TeCali  and  Tehuacan  ;  and 
in  the  last  named,  cactus  of  the  most  extraordinary  dimensions,  as  well 

as  the  vine  from  which  is  made  a  wine  superior  to  that  of  Spain   and 
29 


454  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICAAS. 

Italy.  In  the  district  of  Tlatlauquitepec  is  raised  the  famous  ramie, 
or  vegetable  silk,  which  has  enriched  and  given  a  name  to  Asiatic 
India.  This  plant  was  with  difficulty  brought  to  France  and  accli- 
mated in  Provence,  but  without  success  as  an  industrw  It  was  then 
brought  to  Louisiana  in  the  United  States,  and,  although  acclimated,  it 
was  never  successfully  treated  by  mechanical  means,  notwithstanding 
American  effort.  The  magistrate  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  Mexico, 
Licentiate  Mariano  Zavala,  brought  from  Louisiana  a  small  lot  of 
ramie,  which  was  planted  and  successfully  developed  in  the  village  of 
San  Angel  ;  but  his  attention  did  not  go  beyond  curiosity.  One  day 
he  was  visited  by  his  friend,  D.  Manuel  Ortega  y  Garcia,  of  the  dis- 
trict of  Tlatlauqui,  and  Zavala  presented  him  with  the  plants,  si.K  in 
number,  telling  him  the  mode  of  cultivating  them.  Ortega  y  Garcia 
went  to  the  little  village  and  transplanted  the  plants  with  brilliant 
success.  In  two  years  his  plantations  contained  forty  thousand  plants 
two  and  three  meters  in  height,  although  the  plant  obtains  no  greater 
height  than  a  meter  and  a  half  in  Asia.  Ortega  knew  that  the  treat- 
ment of  ramie  was  impracticable  by  the  mechanical  means  employed 
in  Europe  and  America  ;  therefore  he  studied  chemical  means  for  that 
purpose,  and  after  much  endeavor,  he  succeeded  in  separating  the 
fiber  and  presenting  to  the  Minister  of  the  Interior  fine  skeins,  dyed 
in  three  colors,  three  meters  and  a  half  in  length,  which  are  now  dis- 
played spread  over  statues  in  the  salon  of  the  Minister  Riva  Palacio 
and  in  the  house  of  the  venerable  editor,  Don  Ygnacio  Complido,  who 
also  received  a  gift  of  several  skeins.  The  ramie  propagates  prodi- 
giously in  portions  of  our  warm,  moist  climate,  as  in  Cordoba,  Tlat- 
lauqui, Cuetzala,  and  Huachinango.  When  the  plant  is  developed, 
the  sprouts  bearing  four  or  five  leaves  are  removed  and  planted  a 
Spanish  yard  apart,  with  surety  of  the  success  of  the  new  plantation. 
The  ramie  is  little  sensitive  to  changes  in  temperature,  and  it  neither 
breeds  nor  nourishes  worms  or  caterpillars;  neither  gives  life  to  mil- 
dew or  parasitic  growth.  Each  plant  produces  from  §1.75  to  $2.25 
worth  of  fiber,  the  cost  of  its  cultivation  amounting  to  six  cents.  Thus 
the  profit  is  greater  than  from  tobacco,  coffee,  cacao,  or  cotton  :   more- 


PUEBLA,    CNOLULA,    SAA'  MIGUEL   SESMA,    AND    ORIZABA.      455 

ovei,  from   tlie  refuse  fiber  is  manufactured  fine  Chinese  paper,  and 
coarse  wrapping-paper. 

"The  State  of  Puebla  has  a  variety  of  climates,  from  that  which  is 
oppressively  hot  to  one  cloudy  and  cold.  In  some  northern  dis- 
tricts are  produced  cotton,  tobacco,  vanilla,  coffee,  rice,  sugar  cane, 
and  all  the  fruits  of  tlie  cold  zones  and  the  hot  ;  in  the  southern  dis- 
tricts the  fruits  of  the  hot  zones,  cotton,  tea,  cofYec,  and  the  Mexican 
agave  of  the  species  oyanicc,  which  produces  the  inezcal  liquor.  The 
best  sugar  plantations  are  in  the  south,  and  they  produce  molasses, 
aguardientes,  and  sugar  of  various  grades.  In  this  zone  are  the  im- 
mense grazing  lands  of  cattle,  goats,  sheep,  and  horses;  the  salt  mines 
of  Chiautla,  Chinantla,  and  Piaxtla,  and  the  purgative-salt  of  Chietla. 
In  Atli.xco  are  produced  pease,  rice,  corn,  beans,  chile  pepper,  barley, 
benne-seed,  and  some  wheat.  The  districts  of  the  north  yield  the  same 
products,  excepting  the  wheat,  the  salt  mines  and  the  grazing  on  a 
large  scale;  in  exchange,  Zacatlan  produces  apple-brandy  superior  to 
the  Spanish  Catalan,  and  delicious  wines  from  the  orange,  quince,  and 
blackberry.  In  the  central  districts  grows  the  best  wheat  raised  in 
eastern  Mexico,  all  the  fruit  and  grain  of  cold  climates,  the  miilato 
citilc,  whence  comes  a  soda  refined  here,  and  another  which  is  treated 
in  France  ;  also  wool  and  bristles. 

"  The  flora  of  this  State  is  abundant  and  varied,  as  known  to  the  sci- 
entific commission  exploring  the  territory,  and  its  products  would 
supply  the  perfumeries  and  drug-shops  of  the  world. 

"  The  races  and  classes  inhabiting  Puebla  are  as  follows:  The  His- 
pano-American,  which  is  the  principal  one ;  the  Aztec,  the  Chichi- 
meca,  the  Tatonavue,  the  Cuatocomaque,  the  Tepounga,  and  the  Miz- 
teca,  whose  tongues  and  dialects  to-day,  as  well  as  a  great  part  of  their 
customs,  are  of  the  primitive  people.  The  capitals  of  the  most  popu- 
lous and  cultivated  districts  outside  the  State  capital  are:  Tehuacan, 
preeminent  in  agriculture  and  commerce ;  Teziutlan,  under  the  same 
conditions,  where  live  some  capitalists,  almost  millionaires.  The  city  of 
Chalchicomula  is  agricultural  and  industrial,  in  the  line  of  mills.  At- 
lixco  and   Matamoros  are  beautiful,  rich,  and  productive  of  utensils. 


45^  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

Zacatlan,  agricultural  and  industrial  in  the  branch  of  liquors,  and 
Tecamachalco,  given  to  agriculture  and  milling.  The  garden  spots  of 
the  north  are  :  Zacatlan,  with  its  natural  beauty,  its  fair,  lovely  race, 
and  distinguished  families ;  Teziutlan,  with  the  panoramas  its  territo- 
ries offer;  its  people  white  and  elegant,  and  the  culture  of  its  sons; 
Zacapoaxtla,  with  its  florid  vegetation,  its  agreeable,  fine,  mixed  race, 
and  the  inclination  of  its  sons  toward  literature,  distinguished  above 
all  the  people  of  the  State;  the  inhabitants  of  Tetela  de  Ocanepo, 
whose  people  are  clever  and  unpretentious — every  one  here  can  read 
and  write,  understands  domestic  history,  general  geography,  geometry, 
numbers,  the  use  of  arms,  and  constitutional  rights.  In  the  towns 
forming  the  district  of  Tetela  there  is  no  Roman  Catholic  guild,  nor  is 
there  need  of  a  police  judge,  because  here  occur  no  robberies,  no  homi- 
cides, no  quarrels,  no  impositions,  no  adulteries,  nothing  of  crime  or 
disorder.  The  Tetelanos  are  the  Lacedemonians  of  the  State  of 
Puebla.  The  gardens  of  the  south  are :  Picturesque  Atlixco,  watered 
by  a  hundred  streams  of  crystal  flood,  with  its  orchards  of  varied 
fruits,  its  thickets  of  mixed  flowers  of  loveliest  hue,  anil  withal  a 
cultured  society;  Izricar  of  Matamoros,  traversed  by  an  overflowing 
stream  like  Atlixco,  with  its  proud  buildings,  its  lovely  brown  women, 
its  ardent  temperament,  its  fertile  meadows,  and  its  valuable  sugar 
plantations,  which  bring  enormous  rental  to  their  owners;  Acatlan, 
land  of  fire,  with  its  forward  meadows,  its  fruitful  ground-plots,  its  sugar- 
mills  ;  its  cane-fields,  and  its  active  commerce  with  the  Pacific  coast." 

Tram-cars,  built  in  New  York,  run  in  all  directions  from  the  city, 
some  extending  from  ten  to  fifty  miles,  to  villages,  sugar  haciendas, 
and  factories.  To  Cholula  it  is  but  seven  miles  over  the  lovely  green 
valley  of  Puebla,  and  in  making  the  trip,  we  constantly  enjoyed  fresh 
and  charming  views.  These  included  an  ancient  aqueduct  and  an 
old  Spanish  bridge  across  the  river  Atoyac,  which  affords  water-power 
for  factories  and  foundries. 

We  see  the  great  pyramid  of  Cholula  for  miles  before  reaching  it 
— a  grand  and  imposing  monument  to  the  aboriginal  builders  !  That 
these  ready-handed   Indian  workers  should  have  erected  a  mountain, 


rUEBLA,    CHOLULA,    SAK  MIGUhL    SESMA,   AND   ORIZABA.      457 

without  beasts  of  burden  or  implements  of  any  kind,  and  by  passing 
the  brick  from  hand  to  hand,  surpasses  the  calculations  of  all  scien- 
tists. 

It  is  built  of  adobe  bricks  of  irregular  size,  from  sixteen  to  twenty- 
three  inches  in  length.  The  erection  of  this  stupendous  structure 
could  never  have  been  imposed  upon  freemen,  and  must  have  been 
the  work  of  slaves  or  prisoners  of  war.  According  to  Prescott,  the 
base    covers   about    forty-four  acres — other    authorities    say   sixty — 


I 


PVRAMCD    OF    CHOIAM  A. 


while  Baron  Humboldt  suggests  a  comparison  with  "a  square  four 
times  greater  than  the  Place  Vendome  in  Paris,  covered  with  layers 
of  brick,  rising  to  twice  the  elevation  of  the  Louvre."  Tlie  platform 
on  the  summit  is  more  than  an  acre  in  extent. 

The  sides  of  the  mound  face  the  cardinal  points;  but  the  regular- 
ity of  its  outlines  has  been  broken  and  defaced  by  time,  and  the 
whole  surface  is  covered  with  the  dirt  and  vegetable  growth  of  ages. 
From  this  circumstance  many  have  supposed  that  the  elevation  was 
not  artificial,  at  least  as  regards  its  interior  ;  but  so  far  as  explorations 


45^  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH   THE   MEXICANS. 

have  been  made,  there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  it  is  entirely  a  work 
of  art. 

In  addition  to  trees  and  shrubs  covered  with  vines  and  mosses, 
lovel)'  wild  flowers  of  delightful  fragrance  abound  everywhere.  We 
gathered  our  hands  full,  and  pressed  them  on  the  spot  as  souvenirs  of 
the  Pyramid  of  Cholula.  Relic  venders  in  rags  followed  us  around 
with  a  unique  collection  of  cross-bones,  pottery,  idolos,  and  the  cus- 
tomary bric-k-brac.  We  were  ready  purchasers,  being  willing  to 
believe  almost  anything  on  this  historic  and  pre-historic  ground. 

Much  speculation  has  arisen  as  to  the  object  in  rearing  so  stupen- 
dous a  work,  whether  constructed  for  religious  use,  or  as  a  place  of 
sepulture  for  kings  and  notables.  A  recent  theory  is,  that  it  was 
erected  for  defense,  as  a  place  of  refuge  for  an  agricultural  popula- 
tion otherwise  unprotected. 

According  to  Humboldt,  "  In  its  present  state  (and  we  are  igno- 
rant of  its  original  height),  its  perpendicular  proportion  is  to  its  base 
as  8  to  1,  while  in  the  three  great  pyramids  of  Gizeh,  the  proportion 
is  found  to  be  i^  to  l^'^  to  i  ;  or  nearly  as  8  to  5." 

A  table  made  by  Baron  Humboldt,  relating  to  the  proportions  of 
various  pyramids,  is  as  follows: 

Pyramids  Built  of  .Stone. 

Cheops. 
Feet. 

Height 448 

Base   72S 

Pyramids  of  Brick. 
One  of  five  stories  in   Egypt  near  Sakliarali,  height,  150  feet;  base,  2Io  feet. 

Of  Four   Stofifs  in   Mi'xico. 

Teotihuacan.  Cholula. 

Feet.  Feet. 

Height 171  172 

Base 645  1355 

Humboldt  continues:  "The  inhabitants  of  Anahuac  apparently 
designed  giving  the  Pyramid  of  Cholula  the  same  height,  and  double 


Cephren. 

MVCERINUS. 

Feet. 

Feet. 

398 

162 

655 

5  So 

PUEBLA,    CHOLULA,    SAN  MIGUEL    SESMA,    AND   ORIZABA.      459 

the  base  of  the  pyramid  of  Teotihuacan.  The  Pyramid  of  Asychis,  the 
largest  known  of  the  Egyptians,  lias  a  base  of  800  feet,  and  is,  like 
that  of  Cholula,  built  of  brick.  The  Cathedral  of  Strasbourg  is  eight 
feet,  and  the  cross  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome  forty-one  feet,  lower  than 
the  top  of  the  Pyramid  of  Cheops. 

"  Pyramids  exist  throughout   Mexico — in  the   forests  of  Papantla, 
at  a  short  distance  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  on  the  plains  of  Cholula 


EL   CASTILLO,    OR    "  HILL   OF    FLOWERS." 

and  of  Teotihuacan,  at  an  elevation  which  exceeds  those  of  the  passes 
of  the  Alps. 

"  In  the  most  widely  different  nations  and  in  climates  the  most  dif- 
ferent, man  seems  to  have  adopted  the  same  style  of  construction, 
the  same  ornaments,  the  same  customs,  and  to  have  placed  himself 
under  the  government  of  the  same  political  institutions." 

A  contemplation  of  this  pyramid  naturally  led  us  to  think  of  those 
other  wondrous  structures,  Papantla,  Misantla,  and  Mapilca,  erected 
by  the  Totonacs,  and  situated  between  Jalapa  and  the  Gulf  coast  ; 
and  also  Xochicalco,  Uxmal,  Palenque,  and  others  in  other  parts  of 
the  republic. 


460  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   iMEXlCANi^. 

But  little  is  known  about  the  famous  and  ancient  ruins  bearing  the 
poetical  name  of  Xochicalco,  or  "  Hill  of  Flowers."  This  ignorance  is 
probably  due  to  its  isolated  and  rather  inaccessible  position.  The 
cerro  (hill)  is  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  its  summit  reached  by 
five  winding  stone  stairways. 

Crowning  the  eminence  is  the  Castillo,  a  building  measuring  sixty- 
four  by  fifty-eight  feet.  This  structure  is  composed  of  great  blocks 
of  porphyry,  held  together  without  the  aid  of  mortar,  and  covered 
over  with  strange  and  grotesque  sculpturings  of  men,  beasts  and  fishes. 

The  origin  of  this  unique  and  wonderful  structure  is  shrouded  in 
mystery.  Who  were  the  builders,  and  for  what  purpose  it  was  built, 
none  can  tell.  As  a  writer  remarks,  "  It  has  outlasted  both  history 
and  memory." 

When  we  consider  that  the  immense  blocks  of  stone  were  probably 
all  brought  from  great  distances  and  borne  up  the  hill  by  what  means 
the  imagination  cannot  conceive  of,  we  are  struck  with  amazement  at 
the  magnitude  of  the  undertaking  and  the  patience  of  the  builders. 
Entirely  without  mechanical  appliances,  how  they  accomplished  the 
feat  of  transporting  and  placing  those  huge  stones,  fills  us  with  a 
wonder  only  equaled  by  a  contemplation  of  its  sister  enterprise,  the 
pyramids  of  Egypt. 

The  pyramid  of  Papantla  is  built  in  six  stories,  and  a  great  stairway 
of  fifty-seven  steps  leads  to  the  top,  which  is  flat.  Strange  shapes  of 
serpents  and  alligators  are  carved  in  relief  over  the  sides. 

As  these  "  peculiar  people  "  so  frequently  planned  their  structures 
with  some  mysterious  regard  to  "  the  times  and  seasons  "  and  to  the 
heavenly  bodies,  it  is  thought  by  some  that  the  three  hundred  and 
sixty-six  niches  in  the  walls  of  this  temple  bore  some  connection  with 
the  ancient  Toltec  calendar. 

But  to  return  to  Cholula.  The  deity  worshiped  by  the  ancient 
Cholulans  was  more  peaceful  and  less  bloodthirsty  than  Huit::ilopotchli, 
the  terrible  and  warlike  god  cf  the  Aztecs.  He  was  known  as  "god 
of  the  air,"  Quctzalcoatl,  and  in  his  hands  was  intrusted  everything 
relating  to  agriculture  and  the  arts.     So  happy  was  his  reign  that   it 


PUEBLA,    CHOLUIA,    SAN  MIGUEL    SESJ/.4.    AND    ORIZABA.      463 

became  known  as  the  Golden  Age.  "  Under  him  the  earth  teemed 
with  fruits  and  flowers  without  the  labor  of  culture.  An  ear  of  In- 
dian corn  was  as  much  as  a  man  could  carry.  The  cotton,  as  it 
grew,  took  of  its  own  accord  the  rich  dyes  of  human  art.  The  air  was 
filled   with  into.xicating  perfumes  and  the  sweet  melody  of  birds." 

The  great  pyramid  or  temple  of  Cholula  was  said  to  have  been 
erected  in  his  honor;  and  if  a  grander  monument  exists,  made  of 
earthly  material  by  human  hands,  history  has  not  recorded  it. 

From  the  apex  of  this  colossal  structure  we  gazed  on  the  open 
plain  of  Cholula,  and  toward  Tlaxcala,  the  "  Land  of  Bread,"  whose 
hardy  inhabitants,  having  first  been  defeated,  became  the  fast  and 
faithful  friends  and  allies  of  Cortez.  In  the  end  this  proved  to  be  the 
key  to  Mexico.  After  the  conquest,  as  an  acknowledgment  of  their 
uniform  good  faith,  the    Tlaxcalans  were  exempted  from  servitude. 

The  little  band  of  Spaniards,  numbering  only  four  hundred  and 
fifty,  accompanied  by  six  thousand  allies,  marched  to  Cholula,  which 
then  had  a  population  of  two  hundred  thousand.  They  were  hos- 
pitably received  and  supplied  with  provisions.  But  soon  Dofia  Marina, 
the  faithful  interpreter  of  Cortez,  discovered  a  plot  for  their  destruc- 
tion. Cortez  assembled  the  caciques,  acquainted  them  with  his  knowl- 
edge of  their  treachery,  and  demanded  an  escort  on  his  way  to  Mex- 
ico. The  next  day  thousands  were  assembled  in  his  quarters,  when, 
at  a  signal,  the  Spaniards  attacked  them  and  at  least  three  thousand 
were  slain.  The  natives  trembled  at  the  prowess  and  vengeance  of 
the  "  white  gods." 

Cholula  is  now  a  mere  village.  Its  four  hundred  pagan  towers 
have  long  been  demolished,  but  from  the  eminence  where  we  stood  I 
counted  twenty  spires  and  crosses  on  the  Christian  temples  of  the  ad- 
jacent Indian  hamlets. 

The  imagination  may  find  full  scope  in  contemplating  this  grand 
scene.  Looking  northward  stands  the  mountain  Malinche — the  name 
given  to  Cortez  by  the  Indians — brown  and  sere  in  the  distance,  on 
whose  rugged  and  massive  sides  not  a  plant  grows  nor  a  flower  blooms 
to  break  the  monotony  of  its  awful  self.      Popocatapetl,  Iztaccihuatl, 


464  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

and  Orizaba  stand  guard  over  the  enchanted  valley,  their  snow-white 
lops  vying  in  crystal  whiteness  with  the  fleecy  clouds  that  encircle 
them,  while  the  calm,  fleckless  vault  around  and  above  tempers  the 
grandeur  of  the  view,  and  soothes  the  spirit  into  sweet  poetic  seren- 
ity.    We  turn  from  it  in  silence,  with  feelings  of  reluctance  and  regret. 

Returning  at  sunset,  we  had  a  new  source  of  diversion  in  a  lively 
conversation  with  two  seiioritas  and  their  mother.  They  gave  us  their 
names  and  the  number  of  their  street,  informing  us  that  there  we 
would  "  find  our  house." 

Despite  its  many  advantages,  I  was  surprised  to  find  so  few  Eng- 
lish-speaking people  at  Puebla.  But,  strictly  conservative  as  it  is,  we 
traveled  about,  sketching  and  making  notes  as  freely  as  inclination 
led,  meeting  only  kindness  and  courtesy  from  all  classes. 

In  this  connection  a  pleasing  little  incident  occurred  further  indica- 
tive of  the  natural  kind-heartedness  of  the  people.  We  had  gone 
there  quite  alone  and  unattended,  not  taking,  as  we  generally  did, 
letters  of  introduction,  preferring  to  travel  incog.  Walking  on  the 
street,  I  became  suddenly  ill,  and  sought  relief  in  a  neighboring  drug- 
store. The  proprietor  insisted  on  my  remaining  for  some  time,  giving 
me  several  doses  of  medicine,  \v'hich  were  efficacious.  On  leaving,  he 
handed  me  a  prescription  and  a  bottle  of  the  medicine,  and  positively 
refused  all  compensaticn.  "  No,"  he  said,  "you  ladies  are  strangers 
here,  and  alone;  you  shall  not  pay  me  anything." 

We  left  with  regret,  which  was  only  counterbalanced  by  pleasur- 
able anticipations  in  fulfilling  a  promise  to  visit  Madame  de  Iturbide 
at  her  country-seat  near  San  Miguel  Sesma. 

At  Apizaco  we  were  met  by  Don  Augustin,  her  son,  who  had  come 
from  the  capital  to  escort  us  to  the  hacienda,  distant  five  miles  from 
the  station  of  Esperanza.  The  carriage  was  in  waiting,  and  soon  the 
spirited  team  was  hurrying  us  along  over  the  plains.  Never  before 
had  I  seen  the  Mexican  aloe  or  maguey  in  such  magnificence.  Its 
"clustering  pyramids  of  flowers,  towering  above  their  dark  coronals 
of  leaves,"  lined  the  drive  on  either  side,  to  the  very  door.  Here 
we  met  a  royal  welcome  from  our  distinguished  countrywoman.     Sur- 


PUEBLA,    CHOLULA,    SAN  MIGUEL    SESMA,    AND    ORIZABA.       465 

rounded  by  her  numerous  retainers,  we  could  easily  imagine  ourselves 
in  a  feudal  castle  of  the  middle  ages.  The  illusion  was  deepened  on 
seeing  her  two  little  Indian  attendants,  whom  she  had  taken  from  the 
common  herd  and  dressed  as  haccudados,  in  buckskin  suits  and  sil- 
ver buttons.  I  was  not  surprised  at  their  satisfaction  in  their  finery 
when  Madame  Iturbide  assured  me  that,  save  the  possibility  of  a  sin- 
gle garment,  these  were  their  first  clothes.  These  little  brown-skinned 
monkeys  were  constantly  bobbing  in  and  out — with  "  si,  nifia  "  between 
each  breath — bowing,  and  waiting  on  us  with  as  much  zeal  as  if  on 
them  devolved  the  sole  dispensing  of  the  honors  and  hospitalities  of 
the  mansion. 

In  the  late  evening  we  promenaded  on  the  azotca  while  our  host- 
ess regaled  us  with  delightful  reminiscences  of  her  life  in  Me.xico. 
We  inspected  with  the  prince  the  whole  interior  working  of  the 
hacienda — visited  the  cows,  the  horses,  and  the  finest  specimens  of 
swine  I  ever  saw,  so  immense  that  they  almost  rivaled  the  cows. 

Madame  Iturbide  told  us  that,  in  accordance  with  a  long-estab- 
lished custom,  the  peons  would  sing  at  half-past  four  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  Promptly  at  the  hour,  the  rccamarara  awoke  us  to  hear 
the  song. 

The  place  of  assembling  was  near  the  family  residence.  The  first 
that  came,  turning  his  face  to  the  east,  began  singing,  and  continued 
until  all  had  arrived,  when  they  chanted  in  chorus, 

The  Alabado  ;   or,   Song  ov  Praise  to  the  Morning. 
"  Praised  and  uplifted  (or  upheld) 
And  also  glorified 
Be  the  divine  sacrament  ! 
Give  us  to-day  sustenance  ! 
Give  us  Thy  divine  grace  ! 
And  succor  us,  O  Lord  ! 
In  the  work  of  the  day. 
And  thou,  Mother  of  the  Word, 
Immaculate  and  pure  conception, 
I  beseech. thee  from  my  heart 
Not  to  forsake  me,  Mother  mine." 


466  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

Tlie  music  made  a  deep  impression  on  my  sensibilities.  At  times 
it  seemed  like  the  gentlest  breathings  from  a  reed  instrument;  then  it 
would  mellow  down  to  mere  sighing  sounds,  like  whisperings  from  an 
yEolian  harp.  It  was  mournful,  pathetic,  imploring,  and  was  the  lan- 
guage of  the  soul  in  quaint,  almost  unearthly  sounds.  These  weird 
strains  were  wafted  to  my  ear  on  the  calm  morning  air,  and  the  invo- 
cation inspired  me  with  the  same  sad  and  dependent  thoughts  and 
feelings  so  deeply  rooted  in  the  hearts  of  the  dusky  chanters  of  the 
dirge-like  melody. 

Mrs.  Helen  Hunt  Jackson,  in  Raiiiona,  makes  mention  of  the 
observance  of  this  beautiful  custom  by  the  Mexicans  in  the  early  days 
of  California. 

We  were  shown  that  remarkable  grass  known  as  raiz  zacaton,  from 
which  whisk-brooms  and  stout  brushes  for  heavier  uses  are  manufac- 
tured. The  top  is  a  luxuriant  green,  several  inches  in  height,  but  no 
use  is  made  of  it,  only  the  root  being  profitable.  The  peons  employed 
to  gather  this  fibrous  substance  call  to  their  aid  powerful  mechan- 
ical appliances  to  remove  it  from  the  soil,  so  deep  does  it  e.xtend  below 
the  surface,  and  so  tough  are  its  myriad  tendrils.  It  is  exported  all 
over  the  world  and  constitutes  one  of  the  most  important  products  of 
the  haciendas  in  this  section  of  the  country. 

This  hacienda,  like  all  others,  has  its  adiiiinistrador,  and  an  impor- 
tant office  is  his.  While  in  many  respects  his  duties  are  similar  to 
those  of  an  overseer,  yet  he  differs  very  materially  from  that  function- 
ary. In  the  present  instance  the  young  gentleman  who  fills  this  posi- 
tion is  a  college  graduate,  speaking  several  languages,  a  bachelor  of 
arts,  and  a  justice  of  the  peace.  His  accomplishments  do  not  in  the 
least  militate  against  his  efficiency  as  adininistrador ,  for  he  manages 
the  estate  most  admirably,  enjoying  the  utmost  confidence  of  the 
family.  He  preferred  his  assured  salary  of  twelve  hundred  dollars  a 
year  to  the  uncertain  returns  of  the  practice  of  his  profession. 

During  this  visit  I  obtained  a  better  insight  into  the  life  of  the 
peons  than  I  had  before  known.  From  their  evident  contentment,  I 
concluded  that  their  condition  was   not,  after  all,  so  lamentable   as   I 


PUEBLA,    CIIOLCLA,    SAN  MIGUEL    SESMA,    AXD    ORIZABA.       4O7 

had  imagined.  If  they  have  but  little  of  worldly  goods,  they  are 
rich  in  a  politeness  which  redeems  defects  of  face  or  person.  In 
meeting  a  superior,  their  great  clumsy  straw  sombreros  are  quickly 
removed  by  hard,  horny  hands,  and  the  words  gently  uttered  :  '^Ave 
Maria  Santissima  !  "  The  superior  never  fails  to  perform  his  part 
of  the  salutation,  and  touching  his  hat  brim  answers,  "En  gracia  con- 
cebida"  ("  conceived  in  grace").  If  they  pass  twenty  times  a  day, 
the  same  rule  is  observed.  I  was  amused  to  see  the  little  monkeys 
in    the  house    practicing  the  formula. 

A  charming  incident  of  the  visit  was  a  drive  to  the  upper  part  of 


■^■T^'s.-^^^^iiV^^^^^ 


\Y-' 


the  hacienda,  which  extends  along  one  of  the  spurs  of  Black  Mountain. 
Don  Augustin  rode  close  beside  the  carriage  on  his  beautiful  Andalu- 
sian  mare,  Bcso — "  Kiss."  Our  way  for  miles  lay  beside  the  primi- 
tive aqueduct  of  hewn  logs  which  for  two  hundred  years  or  more  has 
supplied  the  hacienda  with  water  from  mountain  springs.  San  Miguel 
Sesma  is  one  of  the  oldest  haciendas  in  that  part  of  the  republic, 
and  extends  over  more  than  twenty  square  miles.  The  sides  of  the 
mountain  are  covered  with  pines,  oaks,  and  a  variety  of  other  woods. 
At  every  turn  we  enjoyed  views  of  sublime  scenerj',  and  at  the  top  six 
geographical  heights  were  plainly  visible — Orizaba,  Popocatapetl,  Iztac- 
cihuatl,  Malinche,  Black  Mountain,  and,  in  the  dim  distance,  Perote. 


4^8  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

We  crossed  a  slight  ravine,  which,  a  rod  or  two  below  us,  had,  with- 
in a  few  years,  deepened  into  a  fissure  of  one  hundred  and  ninety  feet. 
To  me  it  was  almost  as  frightful  as  the  Nochistongo.  On  descending 
the  steep  side  of  the  mountain,  the  prince  performed  a  daring  feat, 
which  exhibited  his  remarkable  physical  strength.  The  cochcro  seemed 
unable  to  restrain  the  mules  and  carriage  from  rushing  headlong  over 
the  precipice.  Instantly,  and  with  the  unerring  precision  of  a  profes- 
sional ranchero,  Don  Augustin  hurled  his  lasso,  and  deftly  catching  it 
around  the  step^Beso  frothing  and  leaping — held  back  the  wagonette 
all  the  way  down. 

Our  delightful  visit  ended,  we  pursued  our  journey,  the  prince 
kindly  escorting  us  to  Orizaba.  A  few  miles  from  Esperanza  we  leave 
the  scorching  winds,  blinding  dust,  and  perpetual  upheaval  of  power- 
ful column-like  whirlwinds  through  which  the  cars  run  for  some  dis- 
tance, and  come  to  inviting  shade  and  refreshing  breezes,  as  we  wind 
and  twist  about  the  mountains  in  leaving  the  table-lands.  The  descent 
is  grandly  wild  and  beyond  the  power  of  pen  to  picture,  and  travelers 
who  have  reveled  in  the  beauties  of  Old  World  scenery  give  prece- 
dence to  this.  A  writer  on  the  subject  said  it  is  ''  as  from  earth  to 
heaven — a  little  bit  of  Paradise."  We  remained  on  the  platform  to 
obtain  an  unobstructed  view  until  our  senses  were  dazed  and  giddy, 
as  the  brave  little  double-headed  Fairlie  engine  pulled  us  safely,  ap- 
parently on  mere  threads,  along  a  lofty  peak,  darting  through  tunnels, 
crawling  around  curves,  over  slender  bridges,  at  times  hundreds  of 
feet  above  some  frightful  abyss. 

The  pretty  village  of  Maltrata  looks  white  and  peaceful  in  its  snug 
retreat  at  the  foot  of  the  table-lands.  We  are  told  it  is  twenty  miles 
away,  but  directly  through  it  is  only  two  and  a  half. 

We  purchased  roses,  tulipans,  and  other  flowers  of  tropical  growth 
for  a  mere  song,  from  Indian  venders,  as  well  as  orchids  of  dazzling 
loveliness,  with  their  glowing  yellow,  pink,  and  red  centers. 

Notwithstanding  the  apparently  dangerous  route  of  this  railway,  I 
was  reliably  informed  that  no  accident  had  ever  occurred  by  which 
lives  had  been  lost.     It  was  under  construction  for  thirty  years,  cost 


PUEBLA,    CHOLULA,    SAN  MIGUEL    SESMA,    AND    ORIZABA.       469 

thirty  millions  to  build,  and  has  survived  no  fewer  than  forty  different 
managements,  besides  time  and  again  losing  its  charter  by  revolu- 
tion ;  but  its  completion  at  last  attained  was  a  great  boon  to  the  re- 
public. On  its  way  to  the  capital  it  ascends  seven  thousand  six  hun- 
dred feet,  and  its  length  is  only  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles  :  and 
"this  is  the  short  and  long  of  it." 

As  is  the  case  with  all  railways  in  Mexico,  whether  of  tram  or 
steam,  there  are  first,  second,  and  third  class  rates.  From  Mexico  to 
Vera  Cruz,  the  first-class  ticket  costs$i6.50 — the  second  class,  $12.50  ; 
but  there  are  no  Pullmans  attached,  and  the  difference  consists  in 
having  neatly  padded  coaches  for  first  class,  while  plain  chairs  in  com- 
mon coaches  accommodate  the  less  fortunate. 

From  Maltrata  the  foliage  and  vegetation  assume  a  more  tropical 
appearance,  but  there  are  wanting  the  tangled  masses  of  vines  and 
luxuriant  growths  one  naturally  expects  to  see.  The  heat,  however, 
grows  more  intense,  and  when  finally  we  halt  before  the  pretty  sta- 
tion house  at  Orizaba,  everything  and  everj'body  seems  wilted  and 
panting  under  the  heat.  Don  Augustin  saw  us  safely  to  the  "  Hotel 
de  las  Diligencias  " — a  name  which  has  a  peculiar  and  particular  at- 
traction for  hotel  proprietors  all  over  the  country.  Don  Augustin 
gave  us  the  desired  information  that  the  hotels  had  retained  the 
names  of  former  times,  when  they  were  head-quarters  of  the 
stages. 

Orizaba  has  perhaps  twent)-  thousand  inhabitants,  and  consider- 
able manufacturing  interests.  The  Alameda  is  a  quiet,  shady  park  with 
an  abundance  of  glorious  flowers  peculiar  to  the  section.  Among 
them  I  saw  nothing  grander  than  the  sweet-scented  Datura  arborea — 
generally  known  as  the  Floripondio  — hanging  like  snowy  bells,  ready 
for  the  fairies  to  ring;  and  the  Tulipan  vibrating  in  the  soft  breeze, 
like  flaming  banners.  I  had  seen  both  of  these  at  the  capital 
and  other  points,  but  they  are  insignificant  compared  with  those 
grown  in  the  tropics. 

The  Zocalo,  the  cathedral  and  the  market — the  latter  always  a  place 
of  interest  to  me— were  duly  inspected.     But  the  heat  was  so  intense, 


470 


FACE    TO   FACE    WI3-H    THE    MEXICANS. 


that     the 

great    quan- 

titles    of 

fruits  and 

vegetables 

lay  scorched 

and    wilted 

under    the 

quaint  palm 

brellas  that    were    no     ""''a 

more    than    tissue    paper  ^  "V 

between  them  and  the  burning  sun, 

and  the   venders    had    no   desire   to 

talk,    and    this    languor   had    on    us, 

likewise,  a  depressing  influence. 

With  the  usual  number  of  inii- 
chacliitos  following  with  evident 
satisfaction  all  our  movements, 
we  strolled  along  the  principal 
streets,  across  picturesque  bridges, 
sketched  and  made  notes  by  the 
Molino  de  Guadalupe,  whence 
we  caught  a  lovely  view  of  a 
shrine    of    Moorish    design,    across 


crwN'^S    IN    THK    T-^OPTCS, 


PUEBLA.    CHOLULA,    SAN  MIGUEL    SESMA,  AND    ORIZABA.        4/1 

a  broken  aqueduct,  against  a  setting  t>f  blue  in  the  distant  moun- 
tains. 

The  coffee  tree,  with  rich,  dark  green  leaves  and  bright  red  ber- 
ries— resembling  cranberries — grows  side  by  side  with  oranges,  lem- 
ons, bananas,  the  cocoa-palm  and  gorgeous  flowers,  all  in  tropical  luxu- 
riance, overhanging  low  adobe  fences. 

The  coffee  berry  is  not  allowed  to  ripen  on  the  tree,  but  when  in 
the  red  state,  the  branches,  laden  with  fruit,  are  cut  and  left  for  several 
weeks  to  dry  in  the  shade.  After  this,  women  and  children  bark  it, 
when  it  is  ready  for  shipment. 

The  city  is  walled  in  by  mountains,  and  during  the  months  of  Feb- 
ruary, March,  and  April — as  I  was  told  by  an  old  inhabitant — is  vis- 
ited almost  nightly  by  wind  storms.  According  to  our  own  experi- 
ence these  rival  the  wildest  hurricanes. 

Our  rooms  were  on  the  north  or  front  of  the  hotel,  consequently 
adapted  to  give  the  wind  full  sweep.  Sure  enough,  at  midnight,  the 
tropical  storm  came  up  without  a  note  of  warning — moon  and  stars 
shining  brightly  in  a  cloudless  sky — but  if  the  Furies  had  been  let 
loose  our  terrors  could  not  have  been  intensified.  Panes  of  glass  were 
shivered  to  atoms  over  our  heads,  doors  were  lifted  from  their  hinges 
and  thrown  with  violence  to  the  floor  ;  everything  movable  was  tossed 
in  wild  confusion,  and  "  las  dos  scnoritas  Amcricanas  solitas  "  expected 
to  find  themselves  in  the  niorning  gray-headed  from  fright. 

In  the  midst  of  the  awful  din  and  hubbub  of  the  storm  the 
mocking-birds  on  the  corridor  added  their  shrill  quota  to  the  general 
confusion  of  sounds,  and  I  was  humorously  reminded  of  the  ex]ieri- 
ence  of  Mr.  William  Henry  Bishop  at  Cordoba,  when  he  spoke  of 
their  "  dulcet  ingenuity,"  and  declared  that  a  "  planing-mill  or  a  foun- 
dry full  of  trip-hammers  would  be  a  blessing  in  comparison." 

Orizaba  had  now  lost  interest  to  us,  and  at  the  right  hour  we  went 
to  the  station,  expecting  to  continue  the  journey  to  Vera  Cruz  and 
Jalapa,  but  hearing  a  rumor  of  yellow  fever,  we  decided  to  return  to 
the  capital. 

Meeting  Father  Gribbin  on  his  way  from  the  coast,  and  fearing  to 


472  FACE    TO  FACE    U ITJI   THE  MEXICANS. 

encounter  another  storm  at  the  hotel,  we  accepted  his  kind  invitation 
to  the  house  of  his  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  John  Quinn,  who  reside  at 
Mr.  Braniff's  factory,  four  miles  from  the  city. 

The    hospitality    of    our   whole-souled    entertainers    was    greatly 
enjoyed    after    our    stormy    experience    of   the    night    before. 


CHAPTER   XIV. 


THE   VIRGIN   OF    GUADALUPE. 


»^>:^ 


I  HIS  tradition,"  says  the  historian 
Altamirano,  "  as  written  by  Don 
Luis  Becerra  Zanco  about  1666, 
because  of  the  simplicity  of  its 
language,  and  also  because  of  its 
reflecting  more  the  characteristic 
sweetness  and  softness  of  the 
Nahautal  language,  in  which  the 
tradition  was  undoubtedly  orig- 
inally preserved,  is  the  most  au- 
thentic." 

The  subject  of  Guadalupe  has 
been  one  of  such  intense  interest,  that  about  sixty-one  Mexican  and 
Spanish  writers  have  written  elaborately  on  it.  So  prominent  is  she, 
that  thousands  of  children  are  annually  christened  by  her  name. 

The  tradition,  as  generally  believed,  is  as  follows:  "At  an  early 
hour  on  the  morning  of  December  9,  1531,  Juan  Diego,  a  humble 
Indian,  who  had  been  recently  converted  to  the  Catholic  faith,  was 
quietly  pursuing  his  way  from  a  town  adjacent  to  the  City  of  Mexico, 
to  mass.  Pausing  for  a  moment  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain  known  as 
the  Cerro  del  Tepazac,  which  is  about  three  miles  from  the  city,  he 
was  held  spell  bound  by  sweet  and  sonorous  singing,  which  seemed  to 


474  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

proceed  from  a  great  number  of  birds  that  sang  in  perfect  accord  and 
harmony. 

"  It  seemed  to  him  that  the  entire  rocky  hill  above  him  was  vibrat- 
ing and  echoing  the  sweet  notes  of  the  myriad,  tiny-throated  warblers, 
and  raising  his  eyes  to  that  point,  he  beheld  a  beautiful  rainbow, 
formed  from  the  brilliant  rays  reflected  from  the  center  of  the  cloud. 
The  Indian  was  held  in  silent  wonder  and  admiration,  but  without 
fear  he  stood,  contemplating  in  his  heart  the  strange  revelation. 

"  Ere  he  had  recovered  from  his  surprise,  the  singing  ceased,  and 
at  once  there  issued  from  the  clouds  a  voice,  soft  and  gentle  as  a 
woman's,  calling  him  by  name,  'Juan,'  and  begging  him  to  draw  near. 

"  He  hastened  to  climb  the  hill,  and  there  he  beheld  in  the  midst 
of  the  light  a  most  beautiful  lady,  whose  clothing,  he  said,  shone  so 
brightly  that  the  rays  from  it  lighted  up  the  rough  cliffs  of  the  rocks 
which  rise  from  the  summit  of  the  hill  until  they  seemed  to  him  like 
precious  stones,  cut  and  made  transparent ;  and  the  leaves  of  the 
prickly  pear,  which  are  small  and  stubby  at  this  point,  on  account  of 
the  barrenness  of  the  place,  seemed  to  him  like  clusters  of  fine 
emeralds,  and  their  branches,  trunks,  and  thorns  like  shining  gold; 
and  even' the  ground  of  a  small  plane  on  the  summit  appeared  to  him 
to  be  of  jasper,  dotted  with  different  colors. 

"The  lady,  with  gentle,  smiling  face,  spoke  to  him  in  the  Mexican 
language,  and  told  him  that  she  was  the  Virgin  Mary,  the  true  Mother 
of  God,  and  that  she  wished  to  have  a  temple  in  that  place,  where  all 
those  who  loved  her  and  sought  her  might  come  for  comfort  in  their 
afflictions. 

"  She  commanded  him  to  go  to  the  palace  in  the  City  of  Mexico 
and  tell  the  Bishop  of  her  desire. 

"  The  Indian  threw  himself  upon  his  knees  and  promised  to  obey 
her  commands.  According  to  promise,  he  went  directly  to  the  house 
of  the  Bishop,  to  which  he  gained  admittance  only  after  great  trouble 
and  delay.  Being  at  last  in  the  presence  of  his  lordship,  he  fell  upon 
his  knees  and  delivered  his  message. 

"  The    Bishop   was   much    astonished    at   the   communication,  and 


THE    VIRGIX    OF    GUADALUPE.  475 

judging  it  to  be  a  dream  or  an  imagination  of  the  Indian,  he  sent 
him  away,  telling  him  to  return  in  a  tew  days,  after  he  had  had  more 
time  to  consider  it. 

"Juan  Diego,  sad  and  disheartened,  returned  on  the  same  day  as 
the  sun  was  setting.  When  he  reached  the  hill,  he  found  the  Vn-gin 
again  awaiting  him. 

"  She  repeated  her  commands,  and  the  Indian  promised  to  return 
on  the  following  day. 

"  He  kept  his  promise,  and  the  Bishop  told  him  to  go  back  to  the 
Virgin  and  ask  for  some  sign,  and  sent  with  him  a  servant. 

"When  they  reached  the  hill,  the  Virgin  was  there  awaiting  him. 
She  still  repeated  her  commands,  and  he  then  went  home,  finding  one 
of  his  uncles  dangerous!)'  ill.  They  sent  him  to  the  city  for  a  priest 
to  deliver  extreme  unction.  He  thought  to  avoid  the  Virgin  by 
passing  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  what  was  his  surprise  to  find  her 
descending  the  hill  to  meet  him. 

"At  this,  the  fourth  apparition,  she  gave  him  the  desired  sign, 
telling  him  to  go  to  the  rugged  rocks,  where  nothing  had  ever  been 
known  to  grow,  and  there  he  would  find  fresh,  sweet,  Spanish  roses, 
covered  with  dew. 

"  The  Indian  did  as  he  was  bid,  and  found  the  roses  as  she  had 
promised.  He  filled  his  blanket  with  them  and  took  them  to  the 
Bishop. 

"There  in  the  presence  of  his  worship  and'  numerous  attend- 
ants, he  threw  the  roses  on  the  floor,  and  as  the  blanket  unfolded, 
they  beheld  with  astonishment  the  image  of  the  Virgin  imprinted 
upon  it. 

"  They  then  became  convinced  that  the  apparitions  were  genuine, 
and  set  about  to  erect  the  church  on  the  Ccrro  del  Tepazac,  where 
the  vision  had  appeared." 

The  tiluia,  or  blanket,  which  received  the  marvelous  imprint  of 
the  Virgin,  is  still  preserved  sacredly  in  the  Cathedral  of  Guadalupe, 
and  visitors,  by  paying  a  small  fee  to  the  sacristan,  may  see  it. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


AMONG   THE   CHILDREN. 

HE  following  i.«  one  of  the  numerous 
stories  related  by  Mexican  mothers 
to  their  children,  and  one  which 
Seiiora  Calderon  often  told  her  little 
son,  Pepito,  in  my  presence: 

THE   STORY   OF   GAITAGILENO. 

Once  there  lived  a  king,  who  had  a 
very  beautiful  wife.  The  king  went 
off  to  a  dreadful  and  tedious  war,  and 
on  his  return,  the  queen's  bosom  friend  told  him  many  false  and  ma- 
licious stories  of  the  queen's  unbecoming  conduct  during  his  absence. 

Without  waiting  to  have  an  explanation  with  his  wife,  or  endeav- 
oring to  ascertain  the  truthfulness  of  the  woman's  assertions,  he  de- 
termined to  rid  himself  of  her  as  quickly  as  possible. 

The  queen  never  suspected  the  cause  of  her  husband's  displeasure, 
nor  that  her  bosom  friend  had  been  the  cause  of  her  sudden  misfor- 
tune. 

One  day,  without  warning,  the  king  caused  her  to  be  placed  in  a 
close  carriage,  and  accompanied  by  her  mother,  he  proceeded  with 
them,  over  a  rough  and  uninhabited  country,  to  a  famous  but 
isolated  castle.  On  arriving  there,  the  great  doors  sprang  open 
as  if  by  magic,  the  carriage  drove  in,  and  then  the  doors  clanged 
together  again,  with  such  fcrce  and  fury  as  to  startle  the  queen,  who 
had  no  idea  that  she  was  to  be  thus  imprisoned  ;  for  when  those  great 
portals  closed  in  tliat  manner,  no  human  voice  or  power,  save  that  of 
the  king,  could  cause  them  to  open. 


AMONG    THE    CHILDREN.  477 

Before  going  to  the  castle,  the  king  had  taken  the  precaution  to 
have  the  great  cellars  filled  with  every  kind  of  edible, — corn,  rice, 
frijoks,  wine,  cheese,  ham, — and  also  huge  chicken-coops,  filled  with 
fine  fat  chickens. 

Here,  after  seeing  that  the  two  women  could  not  suffer  for  want  of 
food,   he  left  them  and  returned  to  his  own  palace. 

In  the  course  of  time,  a  son  was  born  to  the  queen,  whom  she  named 
Gaitagileno  ;  and  day  by  day  he  grew  more  sprightly  and  beautiful ;  and 
it  was  soon  made  clear  to  the  mother  and  grandmother  that  he  was  a 
boy  of  remarkable  intellectual  strength.  But  ere  long,  like  the  birds, 
he  wanted  his  liberty,  and  could  not  believe  that  the  world  was  no 
larger  than  the  limits  of  the  castle. 

When  he  attained  the  age  of  seven  years,  he  took  two  ropes  and, 
with  the  cunning  ingenuity  of  a  boy,  lassoed  the  water-spouts  in 
the  court,  to  the  house.  There  were  other  spouts  that  opened  out 
upon  the  street. 

Gaitagileno  climbed  up  on  the  first  lasso,  and  from  there  he  went 
over  the  top  of  the  house,  and  then  lassoed  the  front  water-spout,  from 
which  he  made  his  descent  to  the  ground,  and  escaped  from  the  castle. 

After  this,  he  ran  with  all  his  might  along  the  highways  and  coun- 
try roads,  asking  every  one  he  met  if  he  could  point  out  to  him  the 
way  to  the  king's  palace. 

As  might  be  expected,  the  shock  was  so  great  to  his  mother  that 
she  came  near  dying  of  grief  for  her  lost  boy,  and  so  continuous  was 
her  weeping  that  she  became  blind. 

Gaitagileno  had  heard  that  the  king  was  his  father,  so  he  was  will- 
ing to  risk  and  suffer  a  great  deal  that  he  might  be  the  means  of  finally 
releasing  his  mother  from  her  long  imprisonment. 

After  a  perilous  journey,  footsore  and  weary,  he  at  last  reached  the 
king's  palace.  He  knocked  violently  on  the  door,  and  when  it 
was  opened  to  him,  the  servants  refused  to  admit  one  so  poorly 
dressed,  for  he  was  attired  completelj'  in  coarse  brown  clothing.  The 
doors  closed  on  the  poor  boy,  but  he  was  undaunted,  and  again 
began  knocking.     On  opening  the  door  again,  they  told  him  the  king 


478  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE  MtXJCAAS. 

was  not  at  home,  but  that  he  must  tell  them  what  he  wanted,  and  as 
soon  as  the  king  returned  they  would  make  known  his  wishes. 

He  told  them  he  had  heard  that  the  king  wanted  to  employ  a  sec- 
retary, and  he  had  come  asking  the  position. 

The  king  was  not  at  home,  but  the  queen's  old  friend,  who  had 
supplanted  her  in  the  king's  affections,  was  there,  and  as  she  belonged 
to  a  family  of  witches,  she  knew  it  was  the  king's  son. 

At  that  moment  the  king  returned,  and  on  learning  the  boy's  er- 
rand, and  having  tested  his  ability  as  a  scribe,  he  was  so  pleased  with 
the  lad  that  he  gave  him  the  position. 

The  woman  was  much  displeased  at  this,  and  at  once  set  about  try- 
ing to  get  rid  of  the  boy,  although  the  king  still  did  not  know  the  boy 
was  his  son.  She  pretended  to  be  so  pleased  with  Gaitagileno  that  it  was 
the  greatest  desire  of  her  heart  that  her  sisters  should  know  him,  and  at 
once  asked  for  and  obtained  the  king's  permission  that  he  should  go 
on  a  visit  to  them.  She  then  wrote  a  letter,  which  she  gave  to  Gai- 
tagileno, telling  her  sisters,  who  were  witches,  who  he  was,  and  that 
they  must  be  sure  to  bewitch  him  and  make  him  suffer  a  great  deal. 

He  read  this  letter  in  the  carriage,  and  as  he  had  taken  pen,  ink, 
and  paper  along  with  him,  he  wrote  another  letter  in  exactly  the  same 
handwriting  as  the  first,  but  telling  them  exactly  to  the  contrary,  and 
that  they  must  show  him  all  through  their  palace.  They  received  him 
with  kindness,  and  the  youngest  one  at  once  offered  to  go  with  him, 
leading  the  way  into  the  garden,  where  he  found  gorgeous  flowers, 
grand  old  walks,  and  an  exquisite  fountain  in  which  were  fishes  of 
brilliant  shades  swimming  about  unconcerned,  while  birds  in  their 
cages  sang  their  sweetest  songs. 

The  stones  about  the  fountain  were  black  and  enchanted,  and  the 
birds  and  fishes  were  princes. 

They  went  into  a  large  hall  where  were  the  pictures  of  all  the  fam- 
il}',  and  before  each  there  was  a  lighted  candle.  She  said  to  Gaitagi- 
leno :  "  If  you  cut  the  faces  out  of  these  pictures  you  will  at  the  same 
time  cut  the  real  faces  of  living  people;  and  if  you  put  out  the  light 
of  any  one  of  these  candles  in   front  of  the  pictures,  the  person  will 


AMONG    THE    CHILDREN.  479 

then  die."  She  had  shown  him  in  the  garden  plants  of  immortaUty, 
and  a  tree  the  leaves  of  which  would,  if  applied  to  the  temples,  restore 
the  sight. 

When  night  came  on,  Gaitagileno  waited  for  all  in  the  house  to  be 
asleep,  when  he  quietly  stole  into  the  garden.  He  had  a  magic  whis- 
tle, with  which,  if  he  blew  one  way,  everything  would  wake  up  ;  and 
if  another  way,  all  would  go  to  sleep. 

Having  assured  himself  that  all  were  asleep,  he  went  into  the  hall 
where  the  pictures  were,  and,  taking  a  knife,  the  first  thing  he  did  was 
to  go  before  the  face  of  the  woman  who  had  supplanted  his  mother, 
and  said:  "Infamous  woman!  you  have  been  the  cause  of  all  m)- 
mother's  sufferings."  He  then  cut  the  picture,  and  at  the  same  mo- 
ment, in  the  palace,  the  king  saw  a  knife  pass  before  the  woman's 
face,  and  she  screamed  aloud,  '  An  invisible  hand  has  wounded  me  !  " 
and  at  once  expired. 

He  then  went  before  each  of  the  other  pictures  and  put  out  the 
hghts,  and  all  the  people  died  whom  they  represented. 

He  then  went  to  the  garden,  gathered  some  leaves  from  the  tree 
of  immortality,  and  some  from  the  plant  to  restore  sight,  blew  his 
whistle,  and  at  once  all  the  fishes  and  birds  and  stones  became  disen- 
chanted;  and  great  was  their  joy  to  be  in  their  natural  condition 
once  more. 

They  took  Gaitagileno  on  their  shoulders,  strewing  flowers  as  they 
went,  and,  accompanied  by  strains  of  sweetest  music,  proceeded  to  the 
king's  palace  singing,  "  Long  live  Gaitagileno  !  " 

O ".  entering  the  city,  he  found  the  whole  population  in  deep 
mourning.  Everywhere  mourning  emblems  were  displayed,  which 
he  ordered  torn  down,  and  red  flags  put  up  in  their  places. 

The  king  was  angry,  and  desired  to  know  why  he  had  presumed  to 
do  this.  "  Because,"  said  Gaitagileno,  "  I  am  your  son,  and  the  old 
woman  was  an  infamous  wretch,  and  has  made  my  mother's  life  a  tor- 
ment. 

"  Come  with  me  at  once  and  restore  her  to  her  rightful  place  as 
queen,  and  release  her  from  that  awful  prison." 


4So 


FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE    MEXJCANS. 


jii|P'ii(riiiii|i  i»ji|j,iii|iiiiii  III  Mih 


They  started  at  once  in  the  king's  carriage,  and  when  they  reached 
the   zaguan,  t\\&  boy  exclaimed    in   a  loud  voice :   "Mother!   Mother! 

It  is  I,  your  long-lost  son,  who,  with  the 
king,  your  husband,  have  come  to  restore 
you  to  your  rights." 

He  embraced  her,  and  then  applied 
the  leaves  to  her  temples,  and  she  opened 
her  eyes  once  more  to  see  her  husband 
and  son  before  her. 

The  king  fell  upon  his  knee*;  and 
begged  to  be  forgiven,  and  they  all  re- 
turned to  the  palace,  where  they  were 
received  with  great  joy.  Gaitagileno  was 
loved  and  respected  by  all  who  knew 
him,  and,  leading  a  noble  and  worth}'  life, 
was  known  as  the  savior  of  many  nations. 

One    of    the    many    sweet   lullabies    I 
have    heard    the    mothers    sing    to    their 
children  is  as  follows: 
Se  fueron  las  Yankis  al  C.uaridame, 

Y  el  Yankie  mas  grande 
Se  parece  a  Pepito. 

A  la  pasadita  tra-la-ra-la-ra. 

Se  fueron  las  Yankis  a  la  LaJrillera, 

Y  el  Yankie  mas  grande 
Se  parece  a  Elena. 

Y  a  la  pasadita  tra-la-ra-la-ra." 
"  The  Yankees  went  to  Guaridame, 
And  the  biggest  Yankee  there 
Looked  like  Pepito. 
Chorus  :     To  the  pasadita,  tra-la-ra-la-ra. 

"  The  Yankees  went  to  the  Ladrillera 
And  the  biggest  Yankee  there 
Looked  like  Elena. 
To  the  pasadila,  tra-la-ra-la-ra." 


THE   rOOD        NANA 


Chorus  . 


Clioriis  . 


Chflri, 


AMONG    THE    CHILD  REN. 


481 


The  air  of  this  ditty  is  extremely  musical,  and  though  the  words 
do  not  suggest  anything  particularly  soothing,  yet,  crooned  by  the 
low,  sweet  voice  of  the  mother,  it  never  fails  to  produce  a  quieting 
and  soporific  effect  upon  the  most  recalcitrant  infant. 

This  is  as  popular  with  the  Mexican  tots  as  "  Rock-a-byc  baby  "  or 
kindred  melodies  are  with  ours. 

Their  nursery  tales,  too,  as  well  as  their  ditties,  bear  an  analogy 
to  our  own. 

The  Nana  is  preparing  the  children  for  bed  ;  the  little  ones  chatter 


LISTENING   TO   THE   STORIES. 


and  yawn  alternately,  and  the  nurse  is  hoping  that  their  drowsiness 
will  spare  her  this  time  her  nightly  task  of  story-telling.  Not  so,  how- 
ever. Tucked  at  last  in  bed.  with  the  exception  of  the  youngest, 
whom  she  holds  on  her  lap,  one  calls  out:  "  Cuentome  !  ciicniomc  !  " 
("Tell  me  a  story,  tell  me  a  story!  ")  The  others  quickly  chime  in — 
"  Cjientanos  !  "  ("  Tell  us  a  story.") 

'■'■  Bucno,  pcro  cstaii  qidctos."  ('' Very  well,  then,  but  you  must  be 
quiet  "),  she  answers.  Then  taking  in  hers  the  baby's  fingers  she 
begins: 


482  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH  THE   MEXICANS. 

'' Niiia  chiqiiita  y  bonita"  ("A  pretty,  sweet  little  girl"),  holding 
up  the  little  finger. 

'•  El  scnor  dc  los  aiti/los"  ("  The  gentleman  gives  the  ring  '),  hold- 
ing up  third  finger. 

"  El  tonto  y  loco  "  ("  Idiotic  and  crazy  "),  holding  middle  finger. 

"  El  lama  casuelas  "  ("  Licks  the  cook-pot  "),  elevating  forefinger. 

" Mata  las  animalas"  ("Kills  the  little  animals").  This  last  is 
accompanied  by  the  very  expressive  gesture  of  tapping  the  thumb- 
nails together. 

If  this  charming  recital  fails  to  act  as  a  narcotic  to  her  little 
hearers,  she  goes  on  u  ith  : 

"  Este  era  iiii  rcy  qicc  tenia  trcs  liijas, 
Y las  metio  en  unas  hotijas  y 
Catrape  el  cuento  ha  aeabado. 

"  Este  era  iin  rey  que  tenia  fres  liijas, 
Los  vestio  tie  Colorado 
Catrape  el  cuento  ha  aeabado." 

("  This  was  a  king  who  had  three  daughters, 
And  he  put  them  in  earthen  jugs — 
Now  my  story  is  ended. 

"  This  was  a  king  who  had  three  daughters, 
And  he  dressed  them  all  in  red-- 
Now  my  story  is  ended.") 

And  so  on  to  yet  more  blood-curdling  and  fascinating  romances 
till  slumber  seals  her  listeners'  eyes,  and  her  task  ceases. 

CONUNDRUMS. 

'•  Por  dcntro  Colorado  y  por  fucra  coino  salvado?"  Answer:  El 
inamey  (one  of  the  favorite  fruits  of  the  country).  Trans. :  "Red  in- 
side and  like  bran  outside?  The  maincy."  Another:  "  Agua  pasa  por 
mi  casa.  Catc  dc  mi  corazon.  El  que  mc  lo  adivinarc  dc  Ic  parte  cl 
cora.':oit."  Answer:  "The  Aguacatc"  ("the  vegetable  butter)." 
Trans. :  "  Water  passes  through  m}'  house.  Try  my  heart.  Whoever 
guesses  it,  his  heart  will  break." 


AMONG    THE    CHILDREN. 


483 


They  are  not  unlike  those  pecuhar  "  riddles"  with  which  the  chil- 
dren of  the  Southern  States  were  once  so  familiar,  coming  from  the 
lips  of  our  black  "mammies."  One,  especially,  I  remember,  sug- 
gested by  my  first  quotation  :  "  Throw  it  up  green,  it  comes  down 
red."    Ans.  :  "  Watermelon." 

The  accompanying  illustration  is  descriptive  of  a  game  in  w  hich 
Mexican  children  take  great  delight. 

This  droll  little  sketch  was  roughly  made  by  a  young  lad,  a  friend 
of  mine,  in  describing  the  game  to  me.  All  Mexican  children  are 
natural  artists,  and  some  of  these  play-pictures  are  remarkably  well 
drawn. 

They  first  draw   an   oval   (1)  and  say,  "This   is  a    man's  house;" 


then  a  small  circle  (2)  near 
the  center  indicates  an  ob- 
servatory on  the  house.  A 
canal  (3)  is  next  made, 
leading  to  house.  Another, 
but  larger,  ellipse  (4)  is 
drawn,  attached  to  house  ; 
this  is  the  wall  around  the 
man's  farm.  Within  this 
wall  another  (5)  is  built 
which  is  the  inclosure  of 
his  orchard.     In  the  night 


4^4  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

thieves  endeavor  to  force  an  entrance  into  the  orchard  by  means  of 
ropes  (6)  thrown  over  the  wall.  These  ropes  are  fastened  to  the  ground 
by  iron  spikes  (7).  The  man  from  his  observatory  sees  the  approach 
of  tlie  robbers,  and  hastens  with  his  servants  (8)  to  the  rescue.  Guns 
are  fired,  and  a  brisk  fusillade  (9)  takes  place.- — A  pause  at  this  part  of 
the  story  reveals  the  astounding  fact  that  the  picture  of  a  pato  (duck) 
has  been  evolved  during  the  recital  of  this  thrilling  narrative. 

That  "  boys  will  be  boys  "  all  the  world  over,  and  the  teasing  in- 
stinct universal  among  them,  is  demonstrated  in  the  following  dia- 
logue.    Says  one  mischief-loving  lad  to  another  : 

■'  Quicrcs  que  te  cuente  el  cuento  del  gallo  pelon  ?  "  ("  Do  you  wish 
me  to  tell  you  the  story  of  the  bald-headed  rooster?") 

"  Si"  ("  yes  "),  answers  his  companion,  eagerly. 

"  Alo  te  digo  que  si,  que  si  quieres  que  te  euciite  el  cuento  del  gallo 
pelon  .'  "  ("  I  did  not  tell  you  yes  ;  I  said,  do  you  wish  me  to  tell  you 
the  story  of  the  bald-headed  rooster  ?  ")  says  the  first  boy. 

"  Si,"  again  answers  the  other,  growing  impatient. 

Again  the  aggravating  lad  repeats  his  question,  and  again  his  com- 
panion signifies  his  anxiety  to  hear  the  interesting  tale.  And  so  it 
goes  on  till  either  the  story-teller  tires  of  the  amusement  or  the  wrath 
of  his  disappointed  listener  brings  the  unchanging  query  to  an  end. 

This  story  reminds  one  of  the  abortive  attempts  to  spell  Con-stan- 
ti-no-ple. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


SCENES    FROM    MV    WINDOW, 


THE  Striking'  characteristics  whicli 
abound  in  all  parts  of  Mexico  are 
more  plainly  exhibited  in  the  capi- 
tal itself  than  elsewhere. 

The  preponderance  of  the  full- 
blooded  Indian  is  noticeable  in 
the  lower  classes;  high  cheek- 
bones, coarse,  straight  liair,  the 
same  sidewise  trot,  tipping  from 
right  to  left,  and  all  pigeon-toed. 

The  poorer  classes  all  wear  the 
scrape,  which,  owing  to  its  brilliant 
coloring,  adds  greatly  to  the  effect- 
iveness of  a  street  scene.  Many  a 
housewife,  artistically  inclined,  looks 
enviously  at  these  beautiful  wraps, 
and    longs   to    drape    them    as    curtain    or    portifere. 

Day  by  day,  seated  at  my  window,  I  watched  the  various  groups 
that  by  some  strange  and  happy  chance  seemed  to  fall  together  for 
my  pleasure  and  entertainment. 

The  number  and  variety  of  articles  which  are  transported  by  both 
men  and  women    are  certainly  noticeable  to  the  most   indifferent  ob- 
server.    Young  backs  are  early  trained  and  disciplined,  and  the  boys 
and  girls  bear  burdens  that  might  stagger  a  burro. 
31 


MV    WINDOW. 


486 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


/     1  (  (>  \\ 


CARRYING   THE   CLOTHES 
HOME. 


Clothes  are  taken  home  from  the  laundry  in  a  droll  manner.  Men 
carry  on  their  heads  baskets  containing  the  smaller  articles,  while  sus- 
pended around  the  sides  are  stiffly  starched, 
ruffled  and  fluted  skirts,  dresses  and  other  arti- 
cles of  feminine  apparel.  In  the  rainy  season 
the  cargador  has  his  trousers  rolled  up,  so  that 
there  is  nothing  visible  of  the  man  but  a  pair  of 
long,  thin,  brown  legs. 

I    saw    another    man    toiling    along    with    an 

American  two-horse  load   of   corn    husks   on    his 

back,  held  in   place  by  ropes,  the  whole  reaching 

from  about   a   foot   above   his  head   down   to  his 

ankles,  and  almost  closing  him  in,  in   front. 

Venders    of    charcoal    step    nimbly    along    with    from    twenty    to 

twenty-five  bags  of  this  commodity  strapped  about  them,  their  bodies 

so  begrimed   as   to   render  it   hard   to  decide  whether  they  belong  to 

the  Aztec  or  African  race. 

One  obtains  a  glimpse  of  rural  life  in  the  frequent  passing  of  herds 
of  cattle,  all  without  horns,  and  in  the  noisy  gobbling  of  droves  of 
turkeys  as  they  are  driven  through  the  city.  Halting  only  when 
their  proprietor  finds  a  purchaser,  they  strut  through  the  streets  of 
the  metropolis  as  unconcernedly  as  though  on  their  native  hacienda. 
Life  seems  to  glide  along  very  pleasantly  with  these  people.  As 
they  pass  along  the  street,  they  hail  each  other  quite  unceremoniously, 
the  lack  of  previous  acquaintance  forming  no  bar 

to  a  familiar  chat.     Groups  of  more  than  a  dozen        /"""^/J    ' 

f'i  '^-^ 
of   these  venders,  representing  as  many  different     4i^-^^-^v^ 

commodities,     will     often     congregate    together,    W 
their  forms  almost   concealed  from  view  beneath 
their  loads.     Then,  after  a  general   hand-shaking, 
each  goes  his  way,  crying  his  wares. 

One  rainy  afternoon  I  witnessed  an  amusing 
quarrel  between  five  Indian  women.  Each  car- 
ried a  child  in  \\i^x  rchozo  and  held  another  by  the  hand,  making  in  all 


POT\TO    VENDER. 


SCENES  FROM  MY    rr/.VDOlV. 


487 


"ten  little  Indians."  They  stopped  imniediatel}'  under  ni\'  windovv. 
Their  scanty  drapery  reached  a  little  below  the  knee,  and  their 
shoulders  were  covered  only  with  their  rcbozos.  Evidently,  there  was 
a  subject  of  disagreement  between  them,  which  was  explained  when 
three  men  of  their  own  race  came  across  the  street  and  joined  them. 
Then  followed  angry  gestures,  bitter  intonations,  and  threatening 
attitudes,  until  the  passers-by  and  occupants  of  the  houses  eagerly 
watched  the  quarrel.  The  children,  quietly  indifferent,  and  as  if  the 
affair  had  no  possible  interest  for  them,  munched  away  on  their  tor- 
tillas. The  dispute  became  so  violent  that  I  expected  as  a  result  to 
see  at  least  half  a  dozen  dead  Indians,  but  was  disappointed. 

.  The  man  who  figured  most  conspicuously  in  the  scene  offered  his 
hand  to  one  of  the  women.  She  turned  scornfully  away,  but  I  no- 
ticed, in  so  doing,  she  touched  the 
arm  of  another  woman  and  chuckled 
in  an  undertone.  He  spoke  to  an- 
other. She  gave  him  one  thumb 
only,  looking  shyly  in  his  face.  The 
next  one  gave  him  her  whole  hand, 
when  he  knelt  and  humbl)'  kissed  it, 
as  though  it  belonged  to  his  patron 
saint.  Then,  slipping  her  hand  in  his 
arm,  and  with  her  two  little  Indians, 
they  walked  off,  leaving  the  rest  of 
the  party  to  a  further  discussion  of 
the  affair. 

Then  came  a  party  of  three — a 
huge  dog,  a  grown  boy,  and  an  inno- 
cent miichacho  about  one  year  old. 
The  dog  was  so  loaded  down  with 
alfalfa  that  he  could  scarcely  move. 
The  big  boy  walked  beside  him,  guid- 
ing him  with  lines.  Mounted  upon  his  brother's  shoulders,  with 
his    feet  around    his   neck,    was    the    little    mischief,   holding    tightly 


A    FAMILIAR   TYPE. 


488 


FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 


with  both  hands  to  a  tuft  of  hair  on  each  side  of  his  big  brother's 
head. 

Diagonally  across  the  street  is  the  Theatre  Principal.  The  play, 
"Around  the  World  in  Eighty  Days,"  had  for  some  time  past  occu- 
pied the  boards.  On  the  outside  was  an  immense  painting  represent- 
ing an  elephant  caparisoned  with  gold  and  led  by  an  oriental,  while 
mounted  on  the  elephant,  and  seated  after  the  fashion  of  a  man,  rode 
a  woman  dressed  in  gay  colors,  and  over  her  a  canopy  with  red 
draperies.     Palms  and  other  tropical  trees  appeared  in  the  distance. 

On  the  same  canvas,  and  in  contrast  to  this  peaceful  scene,  ap- 
pears another  of  quite  a  blood-curdling  nature.  A  locomotive  comes 
screaming  and  pufflng  along.  Suddenly  myriads  of  wild  Indians, 
painted  red,  with  feathers  on  their  heads  and  deadly  weapons  in  their 
hands,  make  a  furious  attack  upon  it.  They  ride  on  the  cow-catcher. 
Dead  Indians  and  horses  are  piled  around,  and  the  headlight  throws 
I  a  ghastly  illumination  over 

all  ! 

I  witnessed  a  general  re- 
view of  the  infantry  troops 
in  the  city,  a  sight  which  was 
strictly  national  in  its  char- 
acter, and  made  a  showy 
and  amusing  picture. 

Mounted  upon  gayly  ca- 
parisoned horses,  the  ofificers 
presented  a  handsome  and 
soldierly  appearance,  in 
their  uniforms  of  dark  blue, 
elaborately  ornamented  with 
'^■^^V    1     red  and  gold.     The  soldiers. 


neatly  attired  in  blue,  piped 
with  red,  and  wearing  pure 
white  caps,  were  also  quite 
imposing.     But  the  sublime 

BASKET-VENDERS.  ^  ^ 


SCENES  FROM  MY    IVI.VDOW.  489 

suddenly  culminated  in  the  ridiculous,  when  in  the  midst  of  so  much 
glitter,  pomp  and  circumstance — waving  of  plume,  helmet  and  sword 
—  not  "iess  than  fifty  burros,  meek  and  unconcerned,  entered  in  the 
midst  of  these  gallant  defenders  of  their  country,  and,  as  if  by  right 
of  pre-emption,  plodded  in  serpentine  lines  the  whole  length  of  the 
procession.  Some  bore  mountain  loads  of  golden  wheat  straw,  others 
charcoal,  and  pulque  in  sheepskins,  with  other  articles  too  numerous 
to  mention.  The  soldiers  kept  up  their  steady  tramp,  tramp,  tramp  ; 
they  moved  not  a  muscle,  spoke  not  a  word,  as  the  bands  played 
their  most  exhilarating  airs.  Now  a  man,  bearing  a  trunk  or  wardrobe; 
an  Indian  woman,  selling  fruits,  with  her  children  on  her  back  ;  men 
with  baskets,  chairs,  shoes,  tanned  leather,  and  others  selling  dulccs, 
joined  the  procession.  At  length  the  acme  of  atypical  Mexican  scene 
was  reached  when  the  burros  unceremoniously  raised  their  nozzles  and 
brayed  loud  and  long.  As  far  as  I  could  see  up  the  street,  the  military 
and  their  self-constituted  escort  formed  an  indistinguishable  mass. 

I  had  scarcely  recovered  my  equilibrium  from  the  effects  of  the 
procession,  when  a  carriage  and  horses  came  flying  down  the  street  in 
wild  confusion.  The  Jehu  sat  bolt  upright,  with  feet  outspread  from 
side  to  side,  as  if  "  down  breaks  "  was  in  order.  His  eyes  glared 
wildly  from  their  sockets,  as,  with  clinched  teeth,  he  held  desperately 
to  the  lines.  The  animals  were  evidently  uncongenial  to  each  other, 
one  being  a  young  mule,  the  other  an  unbroken  pon_\-.  They  reared 
and  plunged  violently,  while  Jehu  used  every  expletive  known  to  the 
Mexican  language.  But  as  this  treatment  proved  unavailing,  he 
jumped  down  from  his  lofty  seat,  and  ran  beside  them,  jerking  the 
Jines  and  screaming  at  them.  Still  they  heeded  him  not.  At  this 
critical  moment  a  sympathetic  bystander  conceived  a  fresh  and  vigor- 
ous idea  of  assistance,  and  as  he  ran  along,  jerked  from  the  shoulders 
of  an  uninterested  pedestrian  (who  had  not  even  seen  the  runaway 
team)  his  red  blanket,  and  waving  it  before  the  frightened  animals, 
threw  them  trembling  and  panting  on  their  haunches.  In  a  twink- 
ling Jehu  was  on  the  box,  and,  laying  on  the  whip,  was  soon  out  of 
sight. 


490 


FACE    TO   FACE    WIT II    THE   MhXICAXS. 


I  glanced  across  the  street  directly  afterward,  and  saw  a  boy  who 
had  passed  several  times  that  day,  selling  butter,  which  he  carried  in 
a  soap-box,  the  cover  an  odd  bit  of  matting,  and  the  whole  sus- 
pended from  his  head  in  the  usual  way. 

Entering  the  zagitan,  he  threw  down  his  cage,  and  taking  the  but- 
ter out — each  pound  wrapped  in  a  corn-husk — laid  it  in  rows,  and 
gave  his  head  a  scratch,  took  his  money  from  his  pocket,  and  began 
to  count.  Over  and  over  he  counted  and  scratched,  evidently  appre- 
hensive that  his  accounts  would  not  balance.  The  scratching  and 
counting  went  on  for  no  inconsiderable  time,  his  face  still  wearing  a 
puzzled  expression.  At  last  the  solution  came  in  the  recollection  of 
some  forgotten  sale.  He  rose,  a  broad  grin  overspreading  his  here- 
tofore perplexed  face,  slapped  himself  on  the  hip,  laughed,  hastily 
slung  his  cage  on  his  back,  threw  his  blanket  over  his  shoulder,  and 
the  last   I  saw  of  him  he  was  vocalizing  his  occupation  :    "  La  maii-te- 

qiiil-la"  ("  Butter  for  sale  "). 

The  gritos  (calLs)  of  the  street 
venders  become  each  day  more 
interesting  to  the  stranger.  Each 
one  is  separate  and  distinct  from 
the  other,  and  each  one  is  an  an- 
cestral inheritance.  In  them,  as 
everything  else,  the  "  costunibres" 
rule,  and  the  appropriation  by 
another  vender  of  one  of  these 
gritos  would  receive  a  well- 
merited  reprimand.  But  how 
indescribable  is  the  long-drawn 
intonation,  with  the  necessary 
n.isal  twang  of  these  indefati- 
'.;  ible  itinerants!  A  word  with 
only  four  syllables  stretches  out 
until  one  may  count  a  hundred. 
For    the    sake    of    conveying 


INDIAN    MOTHER    AND   CHILD. 


SCIlX£S  FA'O.V   a/)-    ll-/.\DOW.  49I 

some  idea  of  these  street  cries,  I  have  with  much  difficulty  pro- 
cured the  music  of  two  or  three  of  the  leading  ones.  This  is  a 
branch  of  musical  composition  that  has  received  but  little  or  no 
attention  from  musicians,  but  by  all  means  some  effort  should  be 
made  to  preserve  them  in  their  originality,  together  with  exact  por- 
traits of  the  venders  as  they  now  appear. 

The  grilos -.it  the  capital  possess  many  interesting  features  which 
can  be  heard  in  no  other  city  in  which  I  have  sojourned  ;  they  are  want- 
ing elsewhere  in  that  fullness  of  pathetic  and  yet  humorous  melody. 

The  vocal  powers,  thus  exercised,  attain  a  surprising  develop- 
ment, as  the  voice  of  an  ordinary  v/oman  may  be  heard  for  squares 
away. 

The  most  noted  of  all  the  lcma\e  gritos  is  that  of  the  tauialcra,  a 
description  of  whom  appears  elsewhere,  an  old  woman  from  the  State 
of  Guerrero,  who  counts  among  her  patrons  many  wealthy  citizens. 

TAMALERA. 


No  -  to  -  man      ta  -  ma      -     les  de     chi  -  le     y     cap  -  u  -  li 


The  husky,  tremulous  voice  of  a  young  Indian  woman  fell  upon 
my  ear  one  morning  as  I  was  crossing  the  threshold  of  the  San  Car- 
los. Around  her  neck  was  a  strip  of  manta  filled  with  vegetables. 
On  seeing  me,  she  began  importuning  me  to  buy.  They  were  fresh 
and  crisp,  but  I  said  to  her  : 

"  I  am  a  stranger;  I  have  no  home  here,  and  have  no  use  for  such 
things." 

"  But,  iiina"  she  added,  imploringly,  "  I  am  sick,  have  no  home, 
and  under  these  vegetables  in  the  rebo::o  is  my  sick  baby,  only  two 
weeks  old." 

Stooping  to  peep  under  the  load  of  vegetables,  there  I  saw  the 
tiny  babe,  tucked  away  in  the  rcbozo,  and  sleeping  as  soundly  under 
its  strange  covering  as  though  swinging  in  its  palm-plaited  cradle. 

The  mother   asked   me   to  stand  godmother  to   the   baby  at   the 


492  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 

Cathedral,  one  week  from  that  day,  but  as  that  was  impossible,  she 
seemed  reconciled  when  she  found  her  hand  filled  with  small  coins, 
and  bidding  me  a  grateful  farewell,  she  went  on  her  way  singing  her 
song  of  the  "  costuiubrcs." 

Com-pra    usted  ji  -  to-ma   ■  te,  cbi-clia-ros,    e-jo  -  te,      cal  •  a  -  ba  -  ci  -  ta  ? 
Won't  you      buy  tomatoes,  peas.  beans,  pumpkins  ? 

These  gritos  are  rather  more  melodious  than  those  to  which  our 
ears  are  accustomed,  such  as,  "  Ole  rags  'n'  bot-tuls !  " 

The  melodramatic  tones  of  the  newsboys  at  night,  when  many  of 
the  most  popular  papers  are  sold,  had  a  more  foreign  sound  than  any 
that  came  to  my  ear.  The  boy  who  sold  El  Monitor  Rcpiiblicano  rolled 
it  round  and  round  his  tongue  until  finally  it  died  away  like  the  hum 
of  an  ancient  spinning-wheel. 

Another  boy,  with  an  aptitude  for  languages,  sings  out,  ^'Los  Dos 
Republicos  "  (The  Two  Republics  "),  translating  as  he  goes  along,  ^'■Peri- 
odica Americano  ;"  while  another,  not  to  be  outdone,  yells  out  exult- 
antly, "El  Tieiiipo  de  la  maiiana'"  ("The  Times  for  to-morrow"). 
Only  the  word  manana  was  distinctly  articulated,  which  gave  em- 
phasis to  his  vocation,  as  the  Times  is  printed  in  the  evening  and  sold 
for  the  next  day. 

An  amusing  admixture  of  sounds  was  wafted  to  my  room  one 
night  in  the  following  manner.  Two  boys  were  calling  at  the  high- 
est pitch.    One  was  selling  cooked  chestnuts,  and  the  other  the  Times. 

They  managed  to  transpose  the  adjectives  describing  their  respect- 
ive wares.  "  Castanas  asadas"  ('Cooked  chestnuts"),  shouted  one. 
'■'■El  Tiempo  dc  manana,  con  noticias  importantcs  "  ("  To-morrow's  Times 
with  important  notices"),  screamed  the  other.  They  were  quite 
near  together  by  this  time,  one  on  the  sidewalk,  and  the  other  in  the 
street ;  and  when  the  air  was  again  made  vocal,  a  spirit  of  mischief 
had   crept   into  the  medley  of  sounds.     The  paper  boy  led  off  with 


SC£.N£S  FROM  MY   WINDOW. 


493 


mock  gravity,  "  iiV  Ticmpo  dc  manaiia  asada  !  "    ("To-morrow's  limes 
cooked ! ") 

"Castauas  de  nianana  con  noticias  iiiiportantcs !  "  ("To-morrow's 
chestnuts  with  important  news!  ")  yelled  the  chestnut  boy,  and  away 
they  went,  laughing  and  transposing  their  calls,  to  the  amusement  of 
all  within  hearing. 


VENDEKS   OF   COOKEU    SHEEl-  S   HEADS. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 


WHAT    THEY     EAT,    AND     HOW    THEY    COOK    IT. 


X^^^^  ^     j.  MAY  live  without  poetry,  music,  and  art  ; 

We  may  live  witiiout  conscience,  and  live  without 

heart  ; 
We  may  live  without  friends  ;  we  may  live  with- 
out books  ; 
But  civilized  man  cannot  live  without  cooks." 

1  ,:£Pi-^jyjy  According  to  the  light  of  history,  it  has 
JtL_J|||((  not  been  a  civilization  commensurate  with  our 
-  ,|  j/TTlf"  own  that  developed  the  skill  of  the  cook  in 
■^J^^^j  *'"  Mexico,  any  more  than  the  more  lofty  gifts  of  "  mu- 
sic  and  art. 
When  the  conquerors  arrived  at  the  palace  of  Montezuina,  they 
were  amazed  to  find  it  complete  in  every  appointment,  and  display- 
ing a  magnificence  and  grandeur  they  had  not  seen  equaled;  while, 
according  to  Bernal  Diaz,  his  cooks  must  have  been  fully  up  to  the 
standard  of  any  that  "  civilized  man  "  of  to-day  can  employ. 

Among  their  accomplishments  these  Aztec  culinar_\'  artists  under- 
stood more  than  thirty  different  ways  of  dressing  ineats.  At  one 
meal  they  served  up  "  above  three  hundred  different  dishes  for  the 
monarch,  and  for  the  people  in  waiting  more  than  one  thousand. 
These  consisted  of  fowls,  turkeys,  pheasants,  partridges,  quails,  tame 
and  wild  geese,  venison,  musk,  swine,  pigeons,  hares,  rabbits,  and 
numerous  other  birds  and  beasts.  Besides  these  there  were  other 
kinds  of  provision,  which  it  would  have  been  no  easy  task  to  call 
over  by  name." 

Mexican   ladies  take  great  pride   in  their  cook-books,  and    watch 


WHAT    THEY  EAT,   AXD   HOW    THEY  COOK  IT. 


495 


with  deep  interest  the  accuracy  with  which  the  aiiui  de  llavcs  carries 
out  the  receipts.  The  cooks,  however,  frequently  have  their  own 
books,  from  which,  without  further  instructions,  they  execute  tri- 
umphs of  gustatory  art. 

The  first  glance  at  a  Mexican  kitchen  is  anything  but  satisfactory 
to  an  American  woman,  with  her  ideas  of  a  cooking-stove  and  its 
shining  equipments.  But  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  their  only 
furniture  is  pottery,  Mexican  cooks  are  too  much  attached  to  their 
antediluvian  ways  to  be  able  to  appreciate  or  accept  any  innovations. 

The  estiladcra  (water-filter)  is  primitive  in  its  simplicity.  It  is 
made  from  a  porous,  volcanic  rock  peculiar  to  the  country.  The 
water  percolates  through  the  pores  and 
drips  into  a  vessel  below.  Bits  of  char- 
coal are  generally  thrown  in,  and  the 
water  is  as  cold  as  ice  and  sparkling  as 
crystal.  Could  these  stones  only  be  im- 
ported, a  vexed  question  might  be  solved 
— or  at  least  a  troublesome  subject  simpli- 
fied— among  our  own  people. 

The  same  leisurely  and  ease-loving 
methods  that  characterize  the  business 
life  pervade  also  the  home.  The  most  _"'-"„ 
engrossed  man  of  affairs  quietly  leaves  his  :^ 
office  with  all  its  cares  behind  him,  and 
takes  to  his  home  only  his  social  endowment'^.  He  mak.;s  his  mifl-day 
meal  one  of  enjoyment  and  the  occasion  of  a  happy  mingling  with 
the  family  circle. 

After  dinner  the  siesta  follows,  and  business  comes  to  a  lull,  until, 
perhaps,  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 

Unfailing  ceremony — a  national  characteristic — is  observed  in  the 
serving  of  every  meal.  Whether  there  be  three  or  twenty  varieties 
of  dishes,  no  two  are  served  at  once. 

The  climate  seems  to  demarui  a  rich  and  highly  spiced  diet,  and, 
to  make  it  still  more  luxurious,  both  fruits  and  nuts  are  freely  used. 


THE    E'.  TI1..^D'"K.\. 


496  FACE  TO  FACE   WITH  THE  MEXICANS. 

But,  to  judge  from  the  amount  of  dyspepsia  prevailing  there,  it  would 
seem  that  even  Mexican  digestion  succumbs  to  it. 

No  bread  is  made  in  the  family,  while  griddle-cakes,  waffles,  and 
muffins  are  unknown.  Pies,  tarts,  cakes,  or  pastries  have  no  extensive 
place  in  the  vicnu ;  but  their  desserts  of  various  kinds,  made  of  eggs, 
milk,  and  fruits,  are  excellent.  If,  however,  they  are  deficient  in 
homely  bread  preparations,  nature  has  given  them  a  double  compen- 
sation in  the  various  delicious  fruit  beverages,  compounded  not  only 
in  the  homes  of  the  wealthy,  but  also  of  the  humble  folk.  Among 
these  I  may  mention  two  or  three: 

Agua  dc  pina  (pineapple  water),  a  simple  beverage,  and  one  that 
may  be  prepared  in  our  American  homes. 

Beat,  roll,  or  grind  the  .pineapple  very  fine  ;  then  run  through  a 
sieve  ;  add  sugar  to  taste  and  water  to  make  it  sufficiently  thin  to 
drink.  Allow  it  to  stand  for  a  little  while  ;  then  add  ice,  and  it 
is  good  enough  for  a  king. 

Agiia  dc  cilia  is  made  from  a  very  fine  seed  that  I  have  never 
seen  in  the  States,  but  it  is  a  delightfully  refreshing  drink. 

Horcliata — known  to  us  as  orgeat — is  made  from  muskmelon  seed, 
beaten  and  strained,  with  sugar,  some  lemon  juice,  and  a  little  cinna- 
mon. Add  ice,  and  you  have  a  beverage  to  please  the  most  fastid- 
ious. 

In  a  Mexican  home  the  day  begins  with  the  simple  dcsayuna. 
This  consists  of  a  cup  of  chocolate,  coffee,  or  tea,  with  bread,  and  is 
usually  taken  in  the  bedroom,  frequently  in  bed.  There  is  no  fixed 
hour  for  this  repast,  which  is  partaken  of  according  to  inclination,  no 
two  members  of  the  family  being  expected  to  take  their  dcsayuna  at 
the  same  time.  To  all  who  enjoy  the  last  drowsy  morning  nap  there 
is  an  inexpressible  charm  in  this  mode  of  life. 

The  cares  of  the  world  are  at  long  range,  and  one  respectfully  de- 
sires them  to  approach  no  nearer.  No  clanging  of  breakfast  bells 
breaks  rudely  upon  this  delicious  and  intoxicating  slumber  ;  no  scowl- 
ing or  looks  askance  from  hostess  or  landlad\',  for  in  all  probability 
she,  too,  is  snugly  esnconced  in  the  arms  of  Morpheus. 


WHAT    THEY  EAT,   AND   HOW    THEY   COOK  IT.  A,97 

The  servants  are  up  and  at  their  usual  labors,  but  they  move 
about  noiselessly  as  specters;  not  by  the  stirring  of  a  leaf  molest- 
ing the  sweet  repose  of  the  blissful  sleepers. 

The  most  vigorous-minded  gringo  soon  succumbs  to  this  delight- 
ful custom.  Though  his  former  habit  had  been  to  rise  with  the  sun, 
and  eat  an  enormous  breakfast  of  hash,  chops,  steak,  eggs,  hominy, 
batter-cakes,  hot  rolls,  and  what  not,  he  at  once  and  almost  insensibly 
falls  in  with  the  native  custom,  and  in  a  short  time  out-Herods 
Herod.  He  will  linger  longer  under  the  covers,  caring  less  and  less 
for  the  matutinal  cup. 

At  twelve  o'clock  the  family  reunion  takes  place,  when  the 
alimicrzo — breakfast — is  served.  This,  however,  with  its  numerous 
courses,  is  really  the  dinner. 

Soup  is  an  indispensable  part  of  every  Mexican  dinner,  and  is 
used  not  only  at  the  mid-day  meal,  but  often,  too,  at  cena  (supper). 

The  soups  are  of  infinite  variety  and  generally  excellent.  One 
lady  told  me  she  knew  how  to  make  one  hundred  different  kinds.  I 
have  partaken  of  as  many  as  twenty  in  her  house.  At  Sefiora  Calde- 
ron's  I  have  seen  seven  varieties  in  one  week,  and  all  tempting  and 
delicious. 

I  give  receipts  for  two  kinds,  and  although  both  are  called  sopa, 
one  is  served  as  a  vegetable  and  always  comes  the  first  thing  after  the 
liquid  soup.     One  is  not  to  take  the  place  of  the  other. 

Queen  of  Soups. — Make  a  broth  of  chicken.  When  cooked  very  ten- 
der, take  the  breast  and  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  adding  to 
these  four  ounces  of  beaten  almonds,  a  small  piece  of  bread  steeped 
in  milk,  with  a  good  deal  of  black  pepper  and  a  little  nutmeg.  Beat 
all  well  together,  having  previously  picked  the  chicken  into  shreds. 
Beat  one  egg  well,  and  then  add  the  above  mixture,  after  which  beat 
again.  Then  make  of  the  paste  small  balls  and  drop  into  the  broth. 
Add  a  lump  of  butter  to  the  broth,  and  a  little  sherry  if  desired. 
Truly  delicious. 

Sopa  de  Arroz—r\z&  soup— is  a  very  rich  yet  palatable  dish.  In- 
deed, it  is  rather  too  rich   for  the  average  American  stomach.     They 


49S  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

take  a  large,  open  casuclla  (pottery  vessel)  in  which  about  hciif  a 
pound  of  lard  is  allowed  to  come  to  a  boil,  having  ready  a  few- 
onions  cut  into  tiie  finest  particles,  w  hich  are  thrown  in  and  cooked 
to  a  crisp,  together  with  a  small  piece  of  garlic  if  liked.  One  or  two 
pounds  of  rice,  already  washed  and  dried  are  then  thrown  into  the 
boiling  lard  and  tossed  continually  with  a  large  spoon  until  well 
browned.  Next,  a  pound  or  m.ore  of  fresh  tomatoes  beaten  into  a 
jelly  is  thrown  in  and  well  stirred,  with  a  few  peppers,  chopped  fine, 
and  a  small  quantity  of  salt.  Enough  boiling  water  is  then  poured  in 
to  cover  the  rice,  a  top  placed  over  the  vessel,  and  the  whole  is  cooked 
slowly  for  two  or  three  hours  without  stirring.  It  is  often  served 
with  fried  bananas.  Where  fresh  tomatoes  are  not  to  be  had,  canned 
ones  will  answer  as  well,  and  I  am  sure  this  dish  will  be  enjoyed 
by  many  Americans. 

Puchcro  is  one  of  the  most  popular  of  all  Mexican  dishes.  It  is  not 
generally  liked  by  strangers  at  first,  and  a  taste  for  it  requires  consid- 
erable cultivation.  It  is  made  by  boiling  a  shank  of  mutton  in  water 
for  two  hours  without  skimming.  Add  to  this  carrots,  parsnips,  green 
corn  in  the  ear,  cabbage,  sweet  and  Irish  potatoes,  onions,  apples, 
pears,  squashes  together  with  their  bloom,  thyme,  pepper  and  sweet 
marjoram,  as  well  as  other  Mexican  vegetables  and  fruits  not  known 
outside  the  republic. 

Very  little  water  is  used,  hence  each  ingredient  comes  out  steam 
cooked,  and  as  nearly  whole  as  though  the  component  parts  were 
boiled  separately,  but  without  a  particle  of  salt  or  seasoning  or  any 
richness  whatever. 

Mexican  housekeepers  have  an  endless  variety  of  methods  for 
seasoning  and  dressing  their  meats.  In  a  well-appointed  household 
it  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  have  the  same  meats  prepared  differently 
several  times  in  a  week. 

Perhaps  it  may  be  somewhat  due  to  the  fact  of  the  wretched  man- 
ner in  which  the  butchers  do  their  work  that  they  must  resort  to  boil- 
ing, spicing,  and  other  means  to  make  the  roast  desirable.  But  whm 
once   prepared,  the  palate  of   Epicurus  himself  would  be   appeased. 


IVJJAT    THEY  EAT,  AND  HOW   THEY   COOK  IT.  499 

Ham,  cheese,  eggs,  spices  and  the  many  dcHghtful  herbs  of  the  coun- 
try are  formed  into  a  paste,  and  by  means  of  skewers  the  entire 
roast  becomes  impregnated  with  the  aromatic,  spicy  flavor. 

Their  sauces  and  gravies,  however,  I  do  not  consider  as  good  as 
our  own. 

The  most  popular  method  of  preparing  turkey  is  called  Mole  dc 
Giiajolotc.  Cut  up  as  you  would  a  chicken,  and  fry  in  boiling  lard 
until  well  done,  and  then  take  one  pound  and  four  ounces  of  large, 
dried  peppers,  four  ounces  of  filberts,  four  of  almonds,  lialf  an  ounce 
of  cinnamon,  a  piece  of  garlic  toasted  in  the  fire,  a  few  of  the  seeds 
and  veins  of  the  pepper,  a  few  cloves,  a  little  anise,  coriander,  and 
black  pepper,  a  quart  of  tomatoes,  the  skins  taken  off,  and  boiletl  until 
soft.  All  the  above  is  put  into  a  dish  of  hot  lard  for  a  few  moments, 
stirring  constantly  to  prevent  burning.  When  brown,  take  out  and 
grind  very  fine.  Have  ready  a  large  dish  with  hot  lard  ;  stir  in  the 
above;  let  it  fry  a  little,  then  put  in  the  fried  turkey;  then  water 
enough  to  cover  the  turkey;  let  all  boil  together  for  several  hours  until 
tender,  salt  to  taste,  and  serve  hot. 

Tamal  dc  Casitclla  (Corn-Meal  Pot-pie). — One  quart  of  meal 
scalded,  with  a  little  salt  added,  and  four  table-spoonfuls  of  melted 
lard.  Any  kind  of  meat  that  is  preferred  may  be  used,  but  generally 
the  Mexicans  take  both  pork  and  chicken,  boiled  until  tender.  Stir 
into  the  meal  a  double  handful  of  flour,  two  eggs,  and  on  this  pour 
enough  of  the  broth  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Take  three  or  four  large 
red  peppers  chopped  fine,  with  plenty  of  tomatoes  ;  beat  thoroughly 
together  and  cook  in  lard.  Then  put  the  meat,  well  chopped,  into 
the  same  lard.  Grease  another  dish  or  pan  with  lard  ;  spread  the 
meal  mixture  on  the  bottom  and  sides,  as  for  a  chicken  pie;  then  put 
in  the  meats,  and  cover  with  paste,  and  bake  very  slowly.  When 
almost  cooked,  melt  a  little  more  lard  and  dress  it  all  over;  then  put 
it  in  to  bake  again. 

Their  list  of  salads  quite  exceeds  ours,  and  reasonably  so,  as  they 
have  so  many  vegetables,  fruits,  and  herbs,  which,  combined,  impart 
to  them  a  peculiarly  pungent  and  delightful  flavor.     The  following  is 


5^0  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

one  that    is  national   and  distinctive,  being  made  and   used  only  on 
Christmas  night,  and  for  that  reason  is  known  as 

Esalada  de  la  Noche  Bucna  (Christmas  Salad). — Wash  and  drj-  the 
lettuce,  then  chop  fine.  Put  in  a  dish,  oil,  vinegar,  sugar  and  a  little 
salt ;  stir  these  well  together  ;  then  add  the  lettuce,  also  beets  sliced, 
with  bananas,  lemons  and  oranges,  and  some  peanuts  broken  fine. 
Take  pains  that  the  fruit  is  placed  on  top. 

Every  day  in  the  year  a  Mexican  housekeeper  can  have  some 
kind  of  delightful  salad  on  her  table.  The  lettuce  is  whiter  and  more 
crisp  than  we  generally  see;  the  cauliflower  grows  to  immense  size, 
and  is  correspondingly  good,  while  tomatoes,  equally  fine  in  color  and 
flavor,  gratify  at  once  both  eye  and  taste,  supplying  at  any  moment 
a  depleted  larder.  But  while  these  are  all  of  superior  quality,  the 
popular  taste  prefers  them  served  up  in  omelettes,  with  pepper,  eggs, 
and  spices.  Fortunately,  eggs,  which  fill  such  an  important  place  in 
the  national  dietarj',  are  always  excellent  and  bountiful. 

A  delicious  omelette  is  made  of  green  peas,  string-beans,  potatoes, 
carrots,  parsley,  onions,  pepper,  and  tomatoes,  cooked  a  little  and 
then  chopped  into  a  fine  mass.  Beat  five  or  six  eggs,  in  proportion 
to  the  quantity  of  vegetables,  mix  thoroughly,  and  salt  to  taste;  add 
a  lump  of  butter,  then  bake  in  a  pan  until  nicely  browned  on  top. 

Embucltos  dc  Hucvos.  —  Beat  si.x  or  more  eggs,  as  for  a  scramble  ; 
have  some  lard  boiling,  throw  in  the  eggs;  then  when  cooked  suffi- 
ciently, put  on  these  any  amount  of  grated  cheese  according  to  taste. 
Make  a  sauce  of  onions  and  tomatoes,  with  a  few  peppers  chopped 
very  fine.  After  stirring  as  for  an  omelette,  cut  the  eggs  into  short 
pieces,  pin  them  with  a  straw,  and  then  pour  the  sauce  over  them. 

Chili y  Hucvos  con  Qucso  (Pepper  and  Eggs  with  Cheese). — Toast 
the  peppers  in  the  fire,  remove  the  seeds  and  cut  into  small  slices. 
Have  some  hot  lard  in  a  saucepan,  into  which  throw  a  handful  of 
chopped  onions,  the  same  of  tomatoes.  Pour  in  water,  and  when  it 
is  boiling,  break  in  as  many  eggs  as  liked  ;  put  in  the  sliced  peppers, 
and  when  on  the  dish,  ready  to  serve,  cover  the  whole  with  grated 
cheese.     This  is  excellent. 


n-J/AT    THEY  EAT  AND   HOW    THEY  COOK  IT. 


SOI 


Chilis  Rcycncs  (Stuffed  Peppers). — Take  a  dozen  large  green  bell- 
peppers,  toast  them  in  the  fire,  then  remove  the  skin  and  seeds. 
Have  ready  boiled  meat  minced  very  fine,  a  few  cooked  onions 
chopped  with  tomatoes,  a  little  cinnamon,  two  or  three  cloves,  a  few 
currants  and  a  boiled  egg,  all  made  into  a  paste.  Having  previously 
ground  up  all  the  spices  as  fine  as  possible  on  the  indispensable 
Dictate  (which  for  that  purpose  is   as  excellent  as  any  of   our   spice- 


KITCHEN  AT  THE  CAPITAU 


mills),  great  care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  paste  smooth,  then 
slit  the  peppers,  carefully  stuff  them  with  the  mass,  and  close  care- 
fully. Beat  four  eggs,  whites  and  yolks  separately,  after  which  put 
them  together,  dip  the  peppers  in,  and  then  fry  in  a  large  quantity  of 
boiling  lard  until  quite  brown.  Some  make  a  sauce  of  chopped  onions 
and  tomatoes  poured  over,  but  this  is  superfluous. 

Sttiffed  Squashes. — Boil   the  squashes  and  cut  them   in  halves,  re- 


502  FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

moving  the  seeds.  Take  tomatoes,  onions,  and  a  very  small  piece  of 
garlic,  and  cut  all  very  fine.  Fry  the  mixture  a  little  in  lard  ;  after 
this,  stuff  the  squashes  with  it  ;  then,  with  bread-crumbs  beaten  fine, 
fry  the  stuffed  squashes  in  lard,  when  they  are  ready  for  the  table. 

FrijolcSy  the  native  beans,  are  as  much  a  boon  to  the  rich  as  to  the 
poor.  Twice  a  day  they  close  the  meal,  and  even  on  ceremonious 
occasions  arc  not  dispensed  with.  A  failure  in  the  bean  crop  would 
prove  as  great  a  misfortune  in  Mexico,  as  a  falling  off  in  the  potato 
crop  in  Ireland. 

There  is  some  little  art  in  cooking  them,  and  under  no  condition 
are  they  considered  wholesome  to  be  eaten  the  day  on  which  they  are 
cooked.  They  are  boiled  first  until  tender,  and  when  required,  are 
fried  in  a  cjuantity  of  lard  with  a  little  chili  thrown   in. 

Housewives  have  much  skill  in  the  preparation  of  their  sweetmeats, 
and  the  Mexican  preserves  and  crystallized  fruits  are  certainly  supe- 
rior to  our  own.  They  possess  the  remarkable  feature  of  retaining  the 
original  color  and  flavor  of  the  fruit.  The  climate  is  favorable  to  their 
preservation,  but  as  they  have  only  the  earthenware  of  the  country  in 
which  to  put  them  up,  it  seems  strange  that  they  should  remain 
delicious  to  the  last.      I  subjoin  a  few  of  their  diilccs. 

Qucso  de  Almcndra  (Almond  Cheese). — To  one  pound  of  almonds 
add  one  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar,  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and  six  ordi- 
nary glasses  of  milk.  Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  ;  when  well  cooked,  set 
aside  to  cool  until  the  cream  rises  ;  then  remove  this.  Stir  the  sugar 
in  the  milk,  and  when  well  dissolved,  strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  After 
this,  put  in  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  well  beaten ;  then  put  on  the  fire. 
Have  the  almonds  thoroughly  beaten  as  fine  as  a  powder,  and  when  it 
begins  to  boil,  put  them  in,  stirring  continually.  Add  a  little  ground 
cinnamon.  This  is  done  when  you  can  see  the  bottom  of  the  vessel 
each  time  you  stir  across  it.  It  may  be  cut  any  size  preferred  while 
still  in  the  vessel,  and  it  is  a  very  delicious  duke. 

Copas  Mcxicanas. — Here  we  have  a  very  dainty  and  attractive 
dessert.  The  yolks  of  twenty-two  eggs  beaten  until  very  light,  one 
pound  of  powdered  sugar  and  twenty  four  lady-fingers  beaten  as  fine 


WHAT    THEY  EAT,  AND   HOW    THEY   COOK  IT.  503 

as  a  powder.  First  put  the  sugar  with  the  eggs,  then  beat  them  well 
together;  lastly,  add  the  lady-fingers  with  vanilla  to  taste.  To  be 
served  in  small  glasses  or  cups.     I  can  recommend  this. 

Another. — Three  pints  of  milk,  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  two 
pounds  of  powdered  sugar.  Beat  the  almonds  to  a  powder ;  mix 
with  the  sugar.  Have  the  milk  boiling  and  stir  constantly.  While 
still  boiling,  put  in  the  almonds  and  sugar  and  stir  until  the  whole  is 
the  consistency  of  a  thick  paste.  Put  away  to  cool  for  the  next  day. 
Then  take  one  pound  of  butter,  and  beat  with  the  paste  until  very 
light  ;  the  yolks  of  sixteen  eggs  beaten  very  light  ;  add  to  the  paste, 
stirring  all  well  together.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  sixteen  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth,  as  for  icing,  adding  a  small  proportion  of  powdered  sugar. 
Put  the  first  mixture  in  cups  or  glasses  and  place   the  white  on  top. 

Huevos  Realcs  (Royal  Eggs). — Beat  a  dozen  yolks  until  very  light, 
then  put  them  in  a  vessel,  and  put  this  again  into  one  of  boiling  water 
to  remain  until  they  are  well  done.  Put  half  a  pound  of  sugar  into  a 
pint  of  water  to  cook  together  like  a  syrup.  Before  the  syrup  has 
cooked  to  a  candied  state,  cut  the  yolks  into  shapes,  or  small  pieces 
and  put  them  into  the  syrup  to  boil.  When  cooked  to  an  agreeable 
consistency,  place  in  a  dish,  and  on  each  piece  of  egg  place  almonds 
and  raisins. 

The  botanical  and  mineral  kingdoms  possess  untold  wealth,  not 
only  valuable  to  the  chemist  and  pharmacist,  but  also  to  the  house- 
keeper, who,  for  a  trifling  sum  paid  to  an  Indian,  may  supply  herself 
liberally  with  domestic  nostrums. 

Teqnisquiti,  a  mineral  combining  the  properties  of  both  soda  and 
ammonia,  is  a  standard  remedy  for  indigestion,  gastritis,  or  other 
stomach  troubles.     It  is  also  valuable  in  the  bath. 

Tisa,  another  mineral,  resembles  prepared  chalk,  and  is  not  only 
used  as  a  remedy,  but  is  also  the  refuge  of  the  housekeeper  for  bright- 
ening her  silver,  glass,  and  paint.  Mountains  of  these  and  kindred 
minerals  are  to  be  found  almost  anywhere,  an  ever-ready  boon  to 
the  housekeeper.  These  are  all  supplied  and  dispensed,  for  the  most 
insignificant  consideration,  by  the  serviceable  and  ubiquitous  Indians. 


504  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH  THE   MEXICANS. 

The  maguey  that  furnishes,  in  one  way  or  another,  food,  shelter 
and  raiment  for  the  toiUng  millions,  is  also  lavish  in  the  bestowal  of 
various  medicinal  gifts. 

Pulque — the  national  beverage,  a  prolific  and  profitable  product  of 
the  maguey — affords  many  remedies.  For  coughs,  they  drink  warm 
pulque;  for  indigestion,  pulque  with  a  little  starch  ox  tcquisquiti ;  and 
it  has  been  recently  discovered  that  for  Bright's  disease  and  diabetes 
it  is  a  sovereign  remedy,  while  it  is  a  specific  for  lung  trouble,  by  plac- 
ing under  the  bed  at  night  a  large  vessel  filled  with  pulque  from  which 
the  patient  inhales  its  healing  fumes. 

In  proof  of  its  wonderful  virtues,  a  Mexican  lady  told  me  that  the 
venders  of  pulque  are  always  blessed  with  health,  flesh,  and  strength. 

For  ear-ache,  Mexican  mothers  resort  to  the  leaf  of  a  plant  called 
Santa  Maria,  which  is  reputed  to  have  a  magical  effect  on  the  sufferer. 

For  headache,  a  rose  leaf  pasted  on  the  temples,  with  perhaps  the 
addition  of  some  kind  of  salve,  is  said  to  be  a  sovereign  remedy,  and 
is  used  by  all  classes. 

For  catarrh  and  colds,  rub  the  breast,  forehead,  and  soles  of  the 
feet  with  hot  tallow,  in  which  a  little  snuff  has  been  stirred.  Be  care- 
ful not  to  wash  the  face  the  next  day. 

For  chills  and  fever,  take  a  dose  of  oil,  followed  b)'  a  tea  made 
from  Hojoscn  and  the  camphor-tree,  to  produce  perspiration.  Then 
rub  the  body  with  a  salve  made  from  the  Balsamo  Tranquillo  or 
lobelia,  and  the  leaf  of  the  cactus,  bitter  like  quinine.  Eucalyptus, 
which  grows  luxuriantly  in  many  places,  is  also  used. 

For  whooping-cough,  the  patient  is  kept  closely  in  a  room 
without  a  breath  of  fresh  air  for  forty  days ;  emetics  are  frequently 
given,  and  pitch  is  burned  at  night. 

For  measles  and  scarlet  fever,  tea  is  made  from  violets  and  the 
Noclic  Biietia  flower;  the  patient  is  also  quarantined  for  forty  days. 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 


THE   AMERICAN    COLONY. 


O    mention   has    yet  been  made    in  these  pages  of 

the  little   band   of  m\-   own   countrymen    which 

has  sought  and   found  a  home  in  Mexico.     This 

'"^   orphaned   colony,  numbering    between    six  and 

eight  hundred,  has  been  kindly  adopted  by  Mrs. 

r     /"w-s^       Cornelia   M.  Townsend,  of  New  York,  who  has 

resided    there    upwards    of    twelve   years,    and 

right    nobly  does  this  gentle  woman   fulfill   her 

high  trust  and  merit  the  title  that   has  been  bestowed  upon  her  of 

"Mother  of  the  American  Colony." 

Since  the  successful  inauguration  of  railways  in  Mexico,  thousands 
of  our  people  have  drifted  there — some  for  health,  others  for  pleasure, 
and  still  others  to  improve  their  financial  condition.  The  Mexican 
capital  has  naturally  been  the  great  rallying  point  with  them,  and 
whatever  their  successes,  trials,  sorrows,  or  misfortunes,  their  fellow- 
countrymen,  in  greater  or  less  degree,  have  endeavored  to  aid  and 
encourage. 

Some  time  ago  an  American  Benevolent  Society  was  formed  by 
the  most  prominent  permanent  American  residents,  which  numbers 
about  fifty  members. 

Of  this  society  the  American  minister  is  ex-ofificio  President  ;  Mr. 
I.  Mastella  Clark,  Vice-President ;  Mr.  W.  I.  De  Gress,  Secretary;  and 
Mr.  Frederic  P.  Hoeck,  Treasurer.  The  payment  of  $i  a  month 
entitles  one  to  membership,  and  it  is  a  noble  way  to  spend  that  dol- 
lar, the  object  being  to  render  effective  aid  to  theii'  suffering  aiui 
distressed  countrymen,  whose  increasing  numbers  demand  active  co- 
operation. 


5o6  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH   THE  MEXICANS. 

With  only  a  limited  amount  of  funds,  together  with  sums  gener- 
ously donated  by  the  temporary  tourist  or  traveler,  the  Association 
has  accomplished  a  vast  deal  of  good.  But  much  remains  to  be  done. 
A  hospital  is  now  being  constructed  under  the  auspices  of  the  society, 
but  the  scheme  is  too  great  for  its  resources. 

The  hospital  cares  for  the  homeless,  sick  and  unfriended  stranger, 
for  whom  every  comfort  is  provided.  But  there  is  another  great  and 
imperative  need  for  the  strong  and  healthy — for  deserving  and 
industrious  young  Americans,  cut  off  from  social  privileges  and  from 
the  softening  and  refining  influences  of  home. 

Comparatively  few  American  families  live  in  such  a  way  as  to  en- 
able them  to  offer  those  hospitalities  which  would  be  a  safeguard 
from  the  many  allurements  and  temptations  that  naturally  fall  in  the 
pathway  of  these  young  men.  To  meet  this  want  and  avert  the  dan- 
ger, Reading-Rooms  or  a  Friendly  Inn  should  be  established,  where 
evenings  may  be  passed  with  comfort  and  profit.  The  business  en- 
gagements and  limited  means  of  these  young  men  preclude  the  possi- 
bility of  accompli'^hing  this  for  themselves.  Connected  with  rail- 
ways, telegraph  or  telephone,  or  mining  enterprises,  they  are  con- 
stantly shifted  about  from  place  to  place.  Others  would  come  in  for 
the  benefits  they  had  received  and  the  good  work  be  continued.  A 
wide  field  exists  for  the  philanthropist,  in  providing  for  the  comfort 
and  welfare  of  our  countrymen  in  Mexico. 

The  Protestant  churche-^,  including  Episcopal,  Methodist,  South 
and  North  Presbyterians,  Baptists,  Society  of  Friends,  are  all  estab- 
lished and  have  in  successful  operation  excellent  day-schools,  employ- 
ing the  best  teachers,  both  men  and  women. 

To  me  no  music  was  sweeter  than  the  young  voices  of  these  dark 
children  of  the  Mission  Sunday-schools,  singing  in  their  own  tongue, 
in  perfect  harmon)-,  "  O,  Paradise  !  O,  Paradise  !  "  and  "  Nearer,  my 
God,  to  Thee,"  with  other  hymns,  their  sympathetic  natures  respon- 
sive to  these  inspiring  melodies. 

Among  the  teachers  engaged  in  the  mission  schools,  I  found 
"  C'lara   Bridgman,"  the  charming  correspondent  of  the  New  Orleans 


INTERIOR    OF    MEXICAN    EPISCOPAI.    CATHEDRAL. 


THE  AMERICAN  COLONY.  509 

Timcs-Dcnwcrat,  an  accomplished  young  lady  of  the  Crescent  City, 
who  labors  assiduously  as  a  missionary,  asking  no  compensation  but 
to  serve  the  Master. 

Bishop  Riley,  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  has  begun  a  great  work  in 
Mexico,  and  it  should  not  be  allowed  to  languish  for  want  of  moans. 
Substantial  aid  is  required  in  order  to  carry  it  out  according  to  its 
original  inception.  All  communications  or  contributions  to  this  pur- 
pose should  be  sent  to  No.  43  Bible  House,  New  York  City.  To 
give  some  idea  of  the  progress  of  the  work  and  its  wonderful  results, 
I  quote  the  following  from  Janvier's  Guide  to  Mexico : 

"  In  1879  I^i"-  Riley  was  consecrated  Bishop  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico. 
His  broad  culture  and  thorough  knowledge  of  the  Spanish  language 
and  character  especially  fitted  him  for  the  high  office  to  which  he  was 
called.  He  brought  to  the  field  of  his  labors  the  fortune  that  was  his 
by  right  of  inheritance,  and  he  has  been  instrumental  in  having  more 
than  100,000  Bibles  distributed  in  Mexico;  49  churches  were  estab- 
lished, numbering  several  thousand  communicants;  10  schools,  and  3 
orphanages,  enrolling  about  500  children." 

Bishop  Riley's  unselfish  devotion  to  the  cause  and  the  sacrifices 
he  has  made  for  it,  should  be  more  widely  known,  and  Episcopalians 
generally  should  rejoice  at  the  strong  foothold  obtained  b}'  their 
church.  The  handsomest  of  all  the  Protestant  church  buildings  is 
secured  by  them  for  their  worship,  and  the  congregations  are  large, 
attentive  and  devout.  Of  the  transformation  of  this  building  from 
a  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  to  its  present  use,  Janvier  writes  :  "  Here 
masses  were  heard  by  Cortes,  and  here  for  a  time  his  bones  were  laid. 
Here  through  three  centuries  the  great  festivals  of  the  church  were 
taken  part  in  by  the  Spanish  Viceroys.  Here  was  sung  the  first  Te 
Dcitm  in  celebration  of  Mexican  Independence,  the  most  conspicuous 
man  in  the  rejoicing  assemblage  being  General  Augustin  Yturbide — 
by  whom,  virtually,  Mexican  Independence  was  won  ;  and  here,  sev- 
enteen years  later,  were  held  the  magnificent  funeral  services  when 
Yturbide — his  Imperial  error  forgiven,  and  his  claim  to  the  title  of 
Liberator   alone  remembered — was  buried.     Around  no   other  build- 


510  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

m 

ing  in  Mexico,  cluster  such  associations  as  are  gathered  here.  And 
even  now,  when  the  great  monastic  establishment  has  been  swept 
away,  and  the  church  itself  has  become  a  Protestant  Cathedral,  the 
very  wreck  of  it  all  serves  to  mark,  in  the  most  striking  and  dramatic 
v/ay,  the  latest  and  most  radical  phase  of  development  of  the  nation's 
life." 

Christmas  was  celebrated  in  a  manner  truly  American.  Santa 
Claus  visited  the  children,  while  roast  turkey,  plum-pudding,  and 
much  other  good  cheer  was  in   every  American  household. 

Trinity  Methodist  Church  was  filled  to  overflowing,  on  the  occa- 
sion of  the  children's  festival  on  Christmas  Eve,  under  the  supervision 
of  the  Rev.  John  Butler,  the  faithful  pastor  of  the  Northern  Metho- 
dist Church. 

Pines  were  brought  a  long  distance,  and  loaded  with  presents  for 
five  hundred  pupils,  members  of  the  Sunday-school  and  orphanage 
connected  with  the  church.  Bishop  Foster,  from  Boston,  delivered  an 
eloquent  address. 

At  the  hall  of  the  Union  Evangelical  congregation,  a  cantata, 
"The  Message  of  Christmas,"  was  produced,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Sloane,  of 
the'Baptist  Church,  assisted  by  ladies,  managing  the  affair. 

The  Methodist  Church  South  also  held  a  pleasant  reunion  of  its 
congregation,  presided  over  by  its  pastor,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Patterson, 
Church  of  the  Messiah. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Green,  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  united  with  his 
flock  in  a  fitting  observance  of  the  occasion. 

The  American  colony,  and  English-speaking  people  generally, 
joined   r/i  masse  in  these  Christmas  rejoicings  and  church  services. 

At  the  Episcopal  Cathedral,  the  great  festival  of  the  church  was 
duly  observed,  but  at  that  time  the  Chapel  for  English  and  Americans 
had  no  rector.  Since  then,  happily,  the  English  Church  has  sent  over 
a  zealous  and  accomplished  young  clergyman,  Mr.  Sherlock,  who  was 
cordially  received,  as  well  by  the  Americans  as  by  the  English. 

It  was  a  source  of  extreme  gratification  to  me,  as  an  American,  to 
see  in  what  high  esteem  our  former  ministers  were  held.      Ex-Minister 


THE  AMERICAN  COLONY.  51I 

and  Mrs.  J.  W.  Foster  left  the  kindliest  remembrances  behind  them, 
and  I  often  heard  them  mentioned  in  the  highest  terms,  especially 
Mrs.  Foster,  who  seemed  to  have  thoroughly  studied  and  appreciated 
Mexican  character.  At  the  time  that  I  was  at  the  capital,  she,  too 
was  on  a  visit  there,  accompanied  by  two  brilliant  Washington  belles. 
On  her  arrival,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  she  at  once 
took  a  carriage  and  called  on  all  her  Mexican  friends. 

Ex-Minister  Morgan  and  family  also  left  similar  pleasant  impres- 
sions, and  Consul-General  Strother  ("  Porte  Crayon  ")  seemed  to  have 
endeared  himself  to  both  natives  and  Americans.  Consul-General 
Porch,  too,  became  very  popular  during  his  brief  stay. 

Our  people  may  congratulate  themselves  on  the  peculiarly  fortu- 
nate manner  in  which  they  have  been  represented  in  our  neighboring 
republic. 

There  are  two  American  dentists,  two  physicians,  and  about 
twenty-five  merchants,  besides  mechanical  agents  of  various  kinds, 
and  cotton  brokers. 

Father  Gribbin  is  the  only  American  priest,  and  no  countryman  of 
his  fails  to  receive  from  him  the  kindliest  attentions. 

Among  the  best  appointments  made  by  President  Cleveland  was 
that  of  General  Henry  R.  Jackson  as  Minister  Plenipotentiary  and 
Envoy  Extraordinary  to  the  Republic  of  Mexico. 

A  Bayard  "  with.out  fear  and  without  reproach,"  in  him  are  com- 
bined the  high  chivalrous  character,  noble  intellect,  and  generous 
heart  that  have  commended  him  to  the  esteem  and  veneration  of  his 
own  countrymen,  and  the  highest  consideration  of  all. 

Diplomatic  service  was  his  by  heredity,  his  father  having  been  Min- 
ister to  France  for  a  number  of  years,  while  the  General  himself  was 
sent  to  Vienna  as  Charge  d' Affaires  in  1853,  and  was  promoted  to  Min- 
ister Resident  in  the  summer  of  1854,  but  resigned  in  the  summer  of 
1858,  having  spent  five  years  in  Austria. 

He  is  widely  known  as  a  man  of  letters,  a  poet,  and  an  eloquent 
orator. 

General  Jackson  occupied  the  elegant  house  of  President  Diaz,  and 


SI2 


FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


there  dispensed  a  wide  and  generous  hospitality,  in  which  he  was  ably 
seconded  by  Mrs.  Jackson,  who  with  charming  grace  joined  her  hus- 
band in  extending  those  social  courtesies  to  Americans  for  which  they 
were  noted  in  their  beautiful  home  in  Savannah.  Mrs.  Jackson's  recep- 
tions were  held  on  Thursday  afternoons.  On  Thanksgiving  Day  (1885) 
Minister  Jackson  entertained  splendidly  the  entire  American  Colony. 
Not  only  in  state  and  social  afTairs  did  he  represent  the  American 
people,  but  to  the  unfortunate  he  lent  an  ever-read}'  and  sym- 
pathetic ear,  no  countryman  being  too  obscure  or  too  miserable  to 
claim  his  personal  attention. 

General  Jackson  took  a  deep  and  active  interest  in  establishing  the 
American    Hospital.     The  matter  had   long  been   under  advisement. 

Simon  Lara,  of  Spanish  parentage, 
born  in  New  York,  an  American  by 
virtue  of  his  birth,  but  having  lived 
the  greater  part  of  his  life  in  Mexico, 
was  the  generous  father  and  founder, 
having  donated  the  ground  and 
money  to  the  extent  of  twelve 
thousand  dollars. 

The  colony  celebrated  Washing- 
ton's birthday  by  laying  the  corner- 
stone.  Americans  came  from  all  ac- 
cessible points,  and  under  the  circus 
tent  of  Orrin  Brothers  the  interest- 
ing ceremonies  were  held.  The  Stars 
and  Stripes  waved  over  the  largest 
and  most  enthusiastic  assemblage  of 
Americans  ever  known  at  the  capital,  while  Mexican  sympathy  was 
manifested  by  General  Carillo  furnishing  the  Seventh  Regiment  Band 
for  the  occasion. 

A  liberal  sum  was  raised  in  addition  to  Mr.  Lara's  benefaction  and 
one  thousand  dollars  donated  by  General  Jackson. 

The    corner-stone,    with    the    simple   inscription,   "The  American 


SIMON     LARA. 


THE  AMERICAN  COLONY.  513 

Hospital,  1886,"  was  laid  by  General  Jackson.  The  box  containing 
some  of  the  customary  deposits  was  consigned  to  its  place,  when  the 
General,  tapping  the  stone  three  times  with  a  trowel,  uttered  impress- 
ively the  words,  "  In  the  name  of  the  Father,  and  of  the  Son,  and  of 
the   Holy  Ghost,  and  of  suffering  humanity." 

Miss  Waldo,  an  accomplished  artist  from  New  York,  painted  the 
portrait  of  Simon  Lara,  and  Mr.  Balling  that  of  General  Grant.  Tiie 
latter  was  raffled  twice,  bringing  several  hundred  dollars,  each  win- 
ner donating  it  to  the  hospital. 

A  lady  from  Te.xas  suggested  that  to  these  two  be  added  the  por- 
trait of  General  Robert  E.  Lee,  which  was  promptly  responded  to  by 
a  Virginia  lady  living  at  the  capital,  who  painted  one  and  placed  it  in 
possession  of  the  society — the  three  to  adorn  the  walls  of  the  hospital 
when  completed. 

Orrin  Brothers  contributed  a  grand  benefit  performance  at  their 
mammoth  circus. 

The  following  is  the  address  of  General  Jackson  delivered  on  the 
occasion  : 

Ladies  and  Gentlemen  :  That  was  a  marvelous  work  of  the  pagan  imagination 
which  peopled  the  earth,  the  air,  and  the  water  with  countless  divinities  ;  giving  to 
every  stream  its  naiad,  to  every  grotto  its  nymph,  to  every  intellectual  taste  and 
aspiration  its  grace  or  its  muse,  and  to  every  home  its  household  gods.  Vainly, 
however,  shall  we  seek  through  the  pagan  mythology  for  god  or  goddess  of  that 
Charity  pronounced  by  St.  Paul  to  be  greater  than  Faith,  greater  than  Hope  ; 
although  Carita  had  been  a  name  more  divinely  melodious  than  Venus  or  Pallas 
or  Juno.  As  the  pagan  heaven  was  but  a  reflex — its  gods  but  echoes — of  the  breath- 
ing world,  it  is  fair  to  conclude  that  the  word  when  pronounced  by  the  pagan  tongue 
failed  to  express  that  passion  in  the  huinan  soul.  It  was  not  known  to  the  Greek  ; 
else  he  had  not  erected  his  altar  in  Athens  "  To  the  Unknown  God."  Whence,  then, 
came  it  ? — this  emotion,  more  potent  than  the  thunderer  Jove,  hurling  the  bolts 
fabricated  for  him  by  the  forger  Vulcan  ?  Whence  came  this  power  suiireme,  which 
is  now  restoring  its  lost  law  of  gravitation  to  the  moral  universe  ?  I  know  not  ! 
Indeed,  indeed,  I  know  not  !  unless  it  fell  from  heaven  into  the  stable  of  Bethle- 
hem, proclaiming  by  its  fall,  and  by  its  first  touch,  in  material  form,  of  the  earth, 
that  the  lowliest  of  spots  may  be  glorified  by  birth  the  most  divine  ;  that  the  image 
of  a  common   Father  may  be  stamped   most  deeply  upon  the  poorest  of  the  poor; 


5M  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

tliat,  as  in  the  heavens  above  there  is  but  one  God,  so  upon  the  earth  below  there  is 
but  one  coinmon  humanity,  bound  to  him  by  one — the  only  perlected — prayer  ;  to  be 
made  by  all  in  one,  or  by  one  for  all  :  '\Oiir  Father,  give  us  this  day  cur  daily 
bread." 

That  prayer  may  be  made  by  acts  as  well  as  in  words.  It  is  recorded  of  tlie  Italian 
monk,  Fra  Giovanni— named  in  life  "  Angelico,"  known  after  death,  as  "  Beato  " — 
that  he  prayed  with  his  brush  ;  his  every  picture  was  a  prayer  to  God.  And  never 
since  he  first  learned  to  lisp  the  hallowed' words  at  his  mother's  knee,  never  more 
fervently  "  in  spirit  and  in  truth,"  has  the  noble  gentleman  who  gives  to  CHARITY 
the  ground  upon  which  we  stand,  repeated  that  heaven-born  prayer,  than  is  he  now 
repeating — nay  !  than  he  repeats  it  all  the  while  ;  for  the  heart  of  his  charity  never 
ceases  to  beat  ;  no  race  or  nationality,  no  line  of  latitude  or  longitude,  can  bound  its 
action.  I  venture  to  say  that,  although  he  is  devoting  these  precincts  to  his  own 
immediate  countrymen,  who  maybe  destitute  sufferers  upon  a  foreign  soil,  your  gate 
will  never  be  closed  with  his  assent  against  the  forlorn  stranger  who  may  be  help- 
less, homeless,  friendless,  and  destitute  !  And  we,  too,  are  about  to  embody  in 
material  form  the  same  God-given  prayer.  Humble,  indeed,  the  structure  which 
we  shall  raise,  if  compared  with  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  or  the  Coliseum  at  Rome  ; 
but  the  Coliseum  and  the  Parthenon  have  fallen  to  ruins — the  inimitable  creations  of 
Phid.as,  himself  called  "the  divine,"  scattered  over  earth,  beautiful  bones  of  a 
dead  civilization.  And  so  too,  the  wood  and  the  brick  which  we  will  use  shall 
crumble  into  dust  ;  the  very  iron  yield  to  the  destructive  forces  of  material  nature  ; 
but  again  and  again  and  again  shall  they  be  renewed  ;  the  very  earth  upon  which 
they  will  rest  shall  embody  our  prayer.  The  civilization  vitalized  by  that  spirit 
which  fills  with  its  adorable  presence  the  heavens,  the  earth,  the  air,  and  the  water  ; 
which,  "in  the  beginning"  "  was  with  God  ;"  "  without  which  was  made  nothing 
that  was  made  ;  "  in  which  "  we  live  and  move  and  have  our  being  ; "  and  which,  by 
the  universal  and  irresistible  power  of  moral  attraction,  is  ever  drawing  the  hum- 
blest of  earth's  sentient  and  intelligent  creatures  toward  the  One  Omnipotent  God, 
can  never,  never,  never,  die  ! 

*  »  *  *  *  *  *  * 

Since  writing  the  above,  General  Jackson  ha.s  resigned  and  vctunicd 
to  tile  privacy  of  iTome  life.  Tfie  American  Colony,  as  well  as  many 
prominent  Mexicans,  showed  their  appreciation  by  giving  him  the 
grandest  ovation  ever  tendered  an  American,  with  the  single  excep- 
tion of  General  Grant.  As  a  further  token  of  esteem,  they  presented 
him  with  a  painting  of  the  tmrivaled  scenery  of  the  Valley  of  Mexico, 
executed  by  Velasco. 


V^t^CyJ^ 


^^^-^<^, 


THE   AMERICAN   COLONY.  JI/ 

On  receiving  the  gift,  General  Jackson  made  the  following  address, 
which  I  cannot  forbear  giving  in  full,  not  only  on  account  of  its  in- 
trinsic merit  and  eloquence,  but  because  it  so  fully  embodies  my  own 
sentiments  toward  these  people  he,  too,  so  thoroughly  appreciated: 

Mr.  Chairman,  ami  Gentlemen  of  the  Committee,  Friends  and  Coitntryiiun  : 
What  have  I  done  to  deserve  this  repeated  demonstration  from  you  ?  Surely  the 
resolutions  of  the  loth  of  September  were  all  that  heart  could  desire,  and  more  than 
was  called  for  by  any  merit  of  mine.  And  yet  you  have  come  to  honor  nie  anew  by 
your  presence,  by  the  kind  words  of  the  chairman  of  your  committee,  and  by 
another  enduring  testimonial  of  your  regard — this  beautiful  picture  of  the  Valley 
and  City  of  Mexico,  by  a  distinguished  Mexican  artist.  Next  to  the  resolutions 
themselves,  nothing  could  be  more  grateful  to  me  ;  for  next  to  my  own,  I  do  love  this 
country.  Grand  and  beautiful  Mexico  1  how  happy  would  I  be  to  render  her  ser- 
vice !  Hither  I  came  with  the  hope  of  doing  something,  however  small  it  might  be, 
in  the  great  work  of  drawing  her  people  as  close  to  our  own  in  sympathy  as  God 
has  placed  them  in  territory. 

But  you,  my  countrymen,  who  have  made  your  homes  upon  her  bosom,  you  who 
are  affixing  permanent  interests  to  her  soil,  you  are  the  best  diplomatists  for  a 
work  like  this.  By  obedience  to  her  laws,  by  respecting  her  government,  by  pro- 
moting her  welfare,  above  all  by  honoring  her  nationality,  you  can  win  for  your 
country  the  affections  of  her  proudly  sensitive,  but  kind-hearted  and  courteous 
people.  I  say  by  honoring  her  nationality,  for  we  should  never  forget  that  nation- 
ality is  the  God-given  life  of  a  people.  Laws,  constitutions,  and  governments  are,  at 
last,  the  mere  work  of  man;  but  nationalities — these  are  the  creatures  of  God  !  The 
hand  which  in  cold  blood  would  destroy  a  nationality  is  an  impious,  a  heaven- 
defying  hand.  It  would  poison  a  family  ;  it  would  murder  a  man  ;  for  man,  family, 
and  nationality  are  all  alike  the  creatures  of  God.  A  republic  of  republican 
nationalities,  held  together  by  the  one  common  constitution,  given  by  Him  in  his 
Sermon  on  the  Mount,  must  be  the  final  civilization  of  the  world. 

What  I  said  when  I  came,  I  repeat  as  I  go  :  the  Republics  ot  this  continent  can 
surely  prosper  only  by  the  faithful  discharge  of  mutual  obligations — of  all  to  each, 
of  each  to  all,  of  each  to  each.  They  cannot  afford  to  be  false,  the  one  to  the  other; 
to  demand  anything  which  is  not  clearly  right  ;  to  submit  to  anything  which  is 
manifestly  wrong.  They  should  rejoice  with  each  other  in  prosperity  ;  they  should 
aid  each  other  in  distress.  Had  I  the  power  to-night,  I  woidd  give  to  the  nationality 
of  Mexico,  to  the  prosperity  and  happiness  of  her  people,  wings  that  should  bear 
them  far  above  her  snow-capped  mountains,  up  toward  the  eternal  starsl 

And  now  what  shall  I  say  to  you,  my  count.ymen — my  own  dear  countrymen  .'' 
33 


5l8  FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    7 HE    MEXICANS. 

To  you  who  received  me  with  open  arms  when  I  came  ;  who  have  ever  been  so 
generous  to  me,  who  have  viewed  with  so  kindly  a  heart  all  I  have  said,  all  I  have 
done — in  parting  from  you,  what  shall  1  say  ?  Nay,  what  can  I  say  ?  There 
are  times  when  emotions  crush  out  words.  But  far  away  is  a  Georgia  home,  whose 
doors  will  be  ever  ready  to  swing  wide  open  to  you  and  to  yours  ;  upon  whose  walls 
will  be  hung  the  resolutions,  so  beautifully  engrossed,  and  this  picture,  side  by  side, 
in  loving  companionship.  Ine.vpressibly  dear  will  they  be  to  hearts  which  must  here- 
after have  a  dual  life  ;  one  there,  the  other  here  ;  one  in  Savannah,  the  other  in  the 
grand  original  of  this  beautiful  picture  ;  hearts  which  will  be  ever  awake  to  all  that 
may  befall  you,  to  all  that  concerns  you,  and  even  to  the  last  will  cherish  the  hope 
of  meeting  you  again  ;  if  not  here,  if  not  there,  somewhere  in  the  boundless  universe 
of  God. 

The  last  word  must  now  be  spoken,  the  word  that  breaks  the  future  off  from  the 
past  ;  the  word  that  wrings  the  heart,  and  leaves  it  to  the  tumult  of  its  own  pulsa- 
tions ;  "  the  word  that  makes  us  linger  ;  yet,  farewell  !  " 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

A   FEW    OF   THE    POPULAR   SONGS    AND    DANCES    OF   THE    PEOPLE. 
HIMNO    NACIONA.L. 


Poesia  de  F.    Gonzalez  Bocancgta. 
Cnro, 


Musica  dc  JAIME  NUNO. 


2 ,_!._?_ 


-I 


-<-i— « 


Me  -    xi  ■    ca  -  iios,     nl     j:ii    -    to        de     guer     -         -     ra        El        a  ■ 


-&— 


2-ICE 1 0 t-i  —  o • « • — •-•-•—• -•-;—• 

1 — 0 »_• — « « 0 L_» — 0_0    0—0 »_; 1 


»-; — • — « «- 

•*-.•*■■#■     ■*■ 

>  >        > 


§g^^ 


3^ 


>  >    _T 


3^^-^3^^^==^g^^i 


-- N— =5;^ 


^-^ •- 


ffei-isil: 


^•zlrS^^— teiT^-E 


:fct=t— -!i-3 


-  ce  -    ro       a-pre-stad   y  el  bri  -  don      Yretiem- ble      en     sus  cen-tros   la 

|^_ 1__* , ^-r-Mi^ s-^s—r-A b^ H 1 r-l ' 


^fblz: 


T --4- 


ITE 


ig— 


--N- 
-•-• 


!•— fl 


3 


^3z 


Al      so  -  no  -   ro       ru-  gir       del  ca  -  Son  ; 


Y  retiem- 


M — 0 ^0 


1 


r 


• • S *^<f-^— ■-  • — —^  -^^ ^ 


-fi 


-M. 


-1 ^:^- 


r — r 


-T=-T= 


;=it— 


520 


FACE     TO    FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


-  b)e      en    sus  ren-tros  la       tier 


ra    Al     so  -  no  -  ro      ru-gir     del    ca  - 


\    loco. 
I »_• 


\9-\y — »-:-•-•  - ;  -• — • — •-;  H — ^s*-;  -•  •-;-•-• — t- .  -t — r» — • — -•- — • — ' — i — •- 


^^-J    1-. 1^^ d8^.^^_.,tit— I 1| ^ ^_^ 


Ld   '^ 


/-s  Eftfi'ofn. 


sIzEE 


-I a- 


^^='- 


-i — I — ^ — I — 

-•ad h W- 


iion     si.         Cina  \  oh     pa  -  tria  !  tus    sie  -  nes   de     oli 


va       De      la 


jiippi 


jjjjE^^i:] 


3=E 


..'Lj- 


•*•    •*■ 


igg«=lj^2 


LtQ=ti'=l9*=^E=5. 


^-taB- 


?- 


^±F- 


:#-^ 


^fe 


paz    el   ar- can -gel   di  -  vi 


no,  Que  en  el  cie  -  lo    tu    eter-no  des 


^m 


■■^^iEE^tL^ 


-a 0. 


•I — \ — •-! » y 


■*  IS)- 


-■^- 


iiipeg=fi 


Mas    si  o- 
6ra.' 


-   ti    -    no  Por  p!       dedo     de    Di   os     se  es-cri  •  bio. 

_J .-4 ^ 1 d:z:tr:Et=^== 


J J rn— .•-••- 


— ^i'— — -^Fp-^ ^» # * — • '  4. 


POPULAR   SONGS  AND  DANCES. 


521 


'^s^^^^M's^^m^M^^^^. 


+ 

-sare     un     es-tra  -  no   ene-  mi  -  go  i*r>)  -  fa  -  uar  con  su  plan-la     tu 


i 


0§^SpJE^Lrf~i^ 


^. 


■^- 


fcS* 


C& 


-•— e- 


t^— 7"'    7 7-f^— 7— 


a=^ 


E5= 


sue    -     -     -    lo,  Pieu-sa  j  oh     pa-tria  que-ri  da!  que  el  cie 


*■  ■•■ 


1 


::;il^ 


x==^^ 


tzTiC: 


zbitz 


-y-i^ 


lo     Uu   sol- 


— r»~'  — ' *r'~*i"j 


^Jk- 


S^l 


.-^- 


:pb 


ir|?=^^^^^^.:£|fE^E^ 


-^-^t: 


:#-'»- 


a 


■  da -do  en  cada  hijo  te    dio,   Un      sol  -  da- do  en   cada    hijo    te  di6. 


.!?— i 


I=fc 


S£ 


^* 


F — ^  j1^ 


II. 


En  sangrientos  combates  los  viste, 
Por  tu  amor  palpitando  sus  senos, 
Arrostrar  la  nietralla  serenos, 
Y  la  muerte  6  la  <rloria  buscar. 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH   THE   MEXICANS. 

Si  el  recuerdo  (le  antiguas  hazanas 
De  lus  hijos  inflama  la  mente, 
Los  laureles  del  triunfo  tu  Irente 
Volveran  imniortales  4  ornar. 

CoKo. 

III. 

Como  al  golpe  del  rayo  la  encina 
Se  derrumba  hasta  el  Hondo  torrente, 
La  discordia  vencida,  impotente, 
A  los  pi'^s  del  arc4ngel  cayo. 

Ya  no  ni4s  de  tus  hijos  la  sangre 
Se  derrame  en  contienda  de  hernianos ; 
Solo  encuentre  el  acero  en  sus  manos 
Quien  lu  nombre  sagrado  insulto. 

CoRO. 

IV. 

Del  guerrero  inmortal  de  Zempoala 
Te  defiende  la  espada  terrible, 
Y  sostiene  su  brazo  invencible 
Tu  sagrado  pendon  tricolor. 

El  seri  del  feliz  mexicano 
En  la  paz  y  en  la  guerra  el  caudillo, 
Porque  ^1  supo  sus  armas  de  brillo 
Circundar  en  los  campos  de  honor. 

C(  )R0. 


iCiuerra.  guerra  sin  tregua  al  que  intente 
De  la  patria  manchar  los  blasones  ! 
jGuerra,  guerra  !  los  patrios  pentlones 
En  las  olas  de  sangre  empapad. 

jGuerra,  guerra  !  en  el  monte,  en  el  valle 
Los  cafiones  horrfsonos  truenen, 
Y  los  ecos  sonoros  resuenen 
Con  las  voces  de  ;  Union  .'  ;  Liber  tad ! 

CORO. 


POPULAR    SONGS  AXD   DANCES.  523 

VI. 

Antes,  patria,  que  inennes  tus  hijos 
Bajo  el  yugo  su  cuello  dobleguen, 
Tus  Campinas  en  sangre  se  rieguen, 
Sobre  sangre  se  estampe  su  pie. 

Y  sus  templos,  palacios  y  torres 

Se  derrumben  con  horrido  estruendo, 
Y  sus  ruinas  existan  diciendo  : 
De  mil  heroes  la  patria  aqut  fue. 

CoRO. 

VII. 

Si  4  la  lid  contra  hueste  enemiga 
Nos  convoca  la  trompa  guerrera. 
De  Iturbide  la  sacra  bandera 
jMexicanos  !  valientes  seguid. 

Y  a.  los  fieros  bridones  les  sirvan 
Las  vencidas  ensenas  de  alfombra  ; 
Los  laureles  del  triunfo  den  sonibra 
A  la  trente  del  bravo  adalid. 

CORO. 

VIII. 

Vuelva  altivo  4  los  patrios  hogares 
El  guerrero  a  contar  su  victoria, 
Ostentando  las  palmas  de  gloria 
Que  supiera  en  la  lid  conquistar. 

Tornaranse  sus  lauros  sangrientos 
En  guirnaldas  de  mirtos  y  rosas  ; 
Que  el  amor  de  las  hijas  y  esposns 
Tambien  sabe  W  los  bravos  premiar. 

CoRO. 

IX. 

Y  el  que  al  golpe  de  ardiente  metralla 
De  la  patria  en  las  aras  sucumba, 
Obtendra  en  recompensa  una  tumba 
Donde  briUe  de  gloria  la  luz 


524 


FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


Y  de  Iguala  la  ensefia  querida 
A  su  espada  sangrienta  enlazada, 
De  laurel  inmortal  coronada 
Formara  de  su  fosa  la  cruz. 

CORO. 

X. 

jPatria!  ;patria!  tus  hijos  te  juran 
Exhalar  en  tus  aras  su  aliento, 
Si  el  clarin  con  su  bSlico  acento 
Los  convoca  4  lidiar  con  valor. 

[Para  tl  las  guirnaldas  de  oliva  ! 
jUn  recuerdo  para  ellos  de  gloria! 
jUn  laurel  para  tf  de  victoria  ! 
;Un  sepulcro  para  ellos  de  honor  ! 

CoRO. 


AGLAE. 

Danza. 

RULES    OF   THE    DANZA. 

To  the  first  eight  bars  of  music,  which  is  repeated,  making  sixteen  bars  in  all,  two  couples  place  them- 
selves Tts  a  vis  as  in  a  quadrille,  only  much  nearer  together.  Then  opposite  couples  give  right  hand 
across  and  left  hand  back  and  then  balance  four  hands,  your  partner  holding  you  with  one  hand  as  in 
a  round  dance  and  giving  his  other  hand  to  the  other  lady,  while  you  give  yours  to  the  other  gentleman. 
Then  follow  sixteen  bars  of  a  slow  waltz  time. 

F.   G.   Sedano. 


it^§ 


^^^=T: 


ff 


m 


^-- 


X=-^- 


I  ■*•  i  I— S^  .«J^  I  ' 


:?—?- 


■^^ 


POPULAR   SONGS  AND  DANCES. 


525 


tr.  tr. 


\ 


M^ 


l^Eg5gs^^f|p||3^S^ 


-^z=i=±=^t=i=i\ 


A        *-    '  *■        *-        *- 


*  ~y  -''•' 


ti:; 


' ^_ 


^y^iii^E^pii 


:5z::: 


d=2=:?: 


D.  C.  ai  jj? 


TAL.IA. 
Danza. 


F.  G.  Sedano. 


^-^— 


ili 


/■/^ 


^i^: 


-•T-r'-^- 


^ 1 ^y — Lj., 


1st. 


Y^5^  I 


„g^-i-^ IE : 3 


2aE£^E[EEiEE5r^^=fe-^EEES^"^i3=^E5E^~3 


liz 


-■«-  it*,    ^t     ::=    ♦     t:    ♦         A*. 


#'=t= 


^j^EK^E^ 


r^  'tl—  . — — • — ^ — • — h-* ' 1? — I — 


-• — I •- 


itzfc 


-• — u- 


E?^?E3 


526 


FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


•- 


^^=S=tEgEtpE 


i= 


it:=fc 


:1 

Z>.  C.  ai  if? 


EUFROSTNA. 

Danza. 


F.  G.  Sedano. 


s. 


^^ 


itt 


mm 


-F ^^— h-T  n 


t-;-P=it:= 


1E=. 


T_» 


z^/" 


— n J I • y 1 ^-# 1/ 1 


■^i=^ 


{ 


S=£E 


f> — ^ — 


v=\^ 


^—^z 


Iti-t 


-0-f-rh^^0- 


:!— fe 


f^i^ 


ii^p^ltp?lpllpipM^l^ 


^E^^Ei^^i; 


*1 


r^' 


POPULAR    SOXGS  AND   DANCES. 


527 


m^± 


-it- 


.=1 


— 1 » 1 V — — y 


I 


:8 


-•—    — 1 ^ 1— 


■.=»-4ti=t: 


ff— I — »— • — »—0—»-\-\ 


1 


7-T A- 

• — • — • — i — A- 


?-? ?-  :3=E=P=5=1=F 


— 1 — •— •-? — "^ 


s— ?- 


_,_g_,^_«_r- 


•— r'- 


_ — 2 » — » — r^ —    ' * ' — ' — ' a  — * — r^ ■-• 


2>.  C.  al  'S. 


fva-^-s-g — j-n — T  - 


d--=5= 


,     -• — :;— • 

1— =^r 


-•  ■ 

:1- 


333^3^^11 


LA    GOLONDRINA. 

THE   MEXICAN   "HOME  SWEET  HOME." 

Cancion. 


Introftuetion.    Moderato. 


( 


fz'ZM-l- 


ff  ^■'^  ^     "^       ^JJ 


m 


ff 

■»■ 


h — ^i- 


1.    Whitlier  so       swift  -    ly  flies  the  timid  swal  -  low,\\liat 

/.      A   don-  de  i  -  m        ve    -      loz     y  fa  -  ii  -  ga    -     -     -     - 


r^a — I • • ir ir — i^ S~2~5 — ^~g    ^_ 


FACE    TO   FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


iiipliirtsii^i=-^^iii 


distant  bourne  seeks  lier   un    -    tir     -     ing  wing  ? 

da     La  go  -  Ion  -  dri   -    na     que     de   (iqiii  se     vn  ? 


To  reach  it 
Oh,  H  en  el 


— _- 1 0 — 0 — 0 0 — , 

Rt, » ?•--•—•—• •— •— 


—4 


^^^E^^^^^4d^^^^^^^^'^'^^^^^-^-^- 


safe,     what  needle  does  she  follow ,When  darkness  wraps  the  poor,  wee, storm  tossed 

ai  -  re  ge-mi-i-d    es  -  tra  -  via     -    da  Buacando  a  -  hri  ■   r/n  i/  no  lu    en-  eon-  tra- 

■»■■»■■»■         ■*■■»-  ■0-        -S-S-S-        -fi-  -f-  -S-      I  -••-•■  ■••       ■#- 


•— • — • — •-•-• • — • — » — — \^0 — • — • ^ F 

■gEE^Ef^EEg££yj==rg=^-^ 


^^ — p^-i- Tl 1 P^"^ — I — ^— ^-»-»-S 1 


^■ 


thing'?. ..  .Whither  so     thing?.  ..  .To  build  her     nest       near  to  m.v  couch,  I'll 

rd,    A-don-de  i-    rd Junto  a  mi        le    -    cho  le  pon  -  dre  sn 

_N ^** h^ 


L    I     I    *- 


■0-0-         K         /^  -d0-        -m»-        -00  -00  -00 

•^Vf-r-r.-* ^'^-r-F-h-h-h-h-h-h- 


iiii^^^^I^li 


her  ;  Why  go  so  far  bright  and  warm  skies  to  keep  ! 
do    En   donde  pue  -   da        la  es-ta  Hon  pa-sar : 

S— S  — f \-0-0-0-0 0 


Safe  would  she 
Tandiien  yo  en- 


F.g£ 


lEijEfgJ^^l^gg^ggfel 


be  ;      no  evil  should  be-fall 
toy  en  la  region  per-di 


her.  For  I'm  an     ex 
do  Oh!  Cie-lo  san 


ile     sad,  too  sad  to 
to      sin  po-der    no  - 

Rt •-•-•   0—^—0—0-0~f—0    0   0 •— •— •— E f~*"? *  f— 

?^lEH^fEfeSEfe-E^F-lE^t^EfeS^E^rl^^E!EtE^ 


POPULAR    SONGS  AND   DANChS. 


529 


V^,  '.        V 


"y  id.  ff 


weep  ; 

-  lar. 


To  builtl  her    weep. 
Junto  a   mi       lac. 


Cx;  — 0-»~»  — •— « — 3 W  *-*  * — •—=—>• —        I  ~l- 


-' -I 1 — 


— I 1 ^ — I ^ — I — a — ^ — I 1 — "^ 1 1 m ' '-» 


^=J. 


=B=t^EEE 


_^__N_- 


1^1^^ 


2.     My  fatherland  is  dear,  but  I  too  left  it  ; 

Far  am  I  from  the  spot  where  I  was  born  ; 
Cheerless  is  life,  fierce  storms  of  joy  bereft  it; 

Made  me  an  exile  lifelong  and  forlorn. 
Come  then  to  me,  sweet  feathered  pilgrim  stranger  ; 

Oh  !   let  me  clasp  thee  to  my  loving  breast, 
And  list  thy  warbling  low,  secure  from  danger. 

Unwonted  tears  bringing  relief  and  rest. 


Deje  tambicn  mi  pa/ria  iifo/atrada, 
£sa  mansion  que  ine  miro  nacer ; 

Mi  V  id  a  cs  hoy  crranie  y  angustiada, 
Y ya  no  pucdo  d  mi  mansion  volver. 

Ah!  ven,  qucrida  amable  peregriria  ; 
Mi  corazon  al  tuyo  estrechare, 

Oire  fu  canto  tierna  golondrina, 
Recordare  mi  patria,  y  luego  llorare. 


530 


FACE    TO    FACE     WITH    THE    MEXICAXS. 


LOS     NARANJOS    O    ADELA. 

Danza. 
Lento.     Tempo  di  Danza. 


-±7±: 


tf- 


•  - 
I — 


EJESE^E^^-MiESElfE£^5^M^SEEl 


§^^§=§^ 


? 


mm^m^ 


t^ 


;,  Re  •  cuer-das 


^     i- 


^^^^^. 


^: 


pi: 


:f5=?r=.?.- 


-?— ?- 


de    a  -  que-lla        tar    ■    de cuando  eu    el 


liElfi^SEfi^lgila^igifi^Jsi^ 


^!E!E^5J^^H£^i|^EEEEE^i^=SEM 


§ip^: 


\__ 

bosqiie  de    los  na  -   ranjos  juu-toa  tuy       yo, juano     eiitre 


i=i 


3|iiipiigi|pi^L^^ 


i^fe 


POPULAR    SO.VGS   AND    DAXCES. 

J N  I  -^ 


53' 


=£fff: 


=#,• 


rs^^sE5£iE^r^fet--|^g=5 


ma  -  no nos    di  -  ri    -     gi   -  mos. 


liaciu    cJ    es 


|felEO=iEgl^ilgl 


=Ft' 


I&EE-^?=1 


tan;iiie,  dun  de  sus       In  ces,  quebraba  el     sol  ? J  Re-cuer-das 


^^M^%^^^^ip^ 


-• •_ 


•—I — •-- 


^•zE£ 


..Allien    con         tramos  u  -  na  Pi     ■     ra-gua.  u  -  na  Pi   -  ra-sua  que  Sf  me- 


3 

-     ci  -  a  que   seme    -    ci  -  a    co  -  mo  las       o  -  las,  co  -  mo  las      o- las,  del  mar  a- 


-  zul.     Tu     Sofia-   do-ra    mi  -  rastt-al     a-giia,  yo  a  pa-sio  -  na- do  I'liesto  di- lii- 


532 


FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


b— ^•— 5 T-"»--S-3» S S-T-T-S • : T-*  — i a 1-1 


5B^E^= 


no  jos 


pu-es  -  to     de   hi         no-jos, 


1       a   tus 


i^illel^ipiaipi|p|-p: 


-J^ 


ff  I  , 

pies.  J  Re  -  cu-er-das 


^t?--. 


is^iiiii^^r^^^^ 


=5^ 


ES=?zz?£ 


— y- 


v^- 


>      >  >       >      >  > 

k — ^ — ^ — 


8  3  '^     ^. 


ii53S^S^iiipil?ii|?ipl 


pies. 


-h-ffl rl 1 V-^i rl — - 


gj^i§i|i^^§ipsii^j?ip|iji 


;  Dulces  niomentos 
Que  ya  parsaron.  .  .  .  ! 
Y  los   Naraiijos 
Testigos  nuestros 
Existen   aun 
jOuien  conio  eHo5 
Decir  puiiiera 
Constancia  siempre 
Siempre  constancia 
Hasta   morir  ! 

J  Adela  mia  ! 
De  tus  (lesprecios, 
De  lu  inconstancia, 
No  apures  mas 


POPULAR    SOXGS    AND   DANChS. 


533 


La  am.irga  liiel. 
Con  tus  caricias, 
Con  tu   c.irino. 

Con   tu    ternura, 

Hiznie  dichoso, 

Hizme  lelfz. 

3,      Mas,  si   el   cltsden 
De  ui   U'lz  bella 
No  tornas  dulce 

Y  apasionado 
Cual  antes  vf  : 
A   los  Naranjos 

Y  sus    azahares, 
Tierna  querella 
Del   corazon 
EntonarS. 

jAdela.  Adela  ! 
Vuelve   liacia   mi 
Que  sabes    te  ama 
Mi   corazon 
Con  frenesi. 
Se  siempre   mfa 
Cual   tu\'o   soy, 

Y  con  tu  amor 
Hizme  dichoso, 
Hazme  feliz. 


V.   Inidnal 


^  — « — it — ^ 

No  te  puedo      ver. 


^♦* 


no  te  quieroliablar porquecontu 


S^i^iiiSiM#?^Eg|-^i"ii^S; 


34 


534 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


r- 


Ni      -       -     (]i 


E^.-f£^^? 


me  vas  ii  en  »::v      iiar. 


Ni-quel  so-Ill 

ff-» •—  •    —r 9  •  —  •  — • — T 1 m A 1 — T 


*^*— •-* 


tie 


Niquel  na<la        mas 


el      o  ro  y  la 


is<. 


n 


pla      -      ta    se 


fue 


ion,  se        fue 


— <■ 
;3: 


^as^iiE^Ep^: 


ion  al  mar.  No  te  puedo 


II 


2d. 

— h-  -  ^_t — F  J — J."- — I [-■ 


7rt//y  ligailo. 
mar.  Sonaudo  en  a- 


-»— 1 — I — * — •—+-<« r 


mo    -    ns in-ean-ta  pro    -    be 

-         -         -  -•—•  —  • T 


■?" 


-^ — I- 


-Fa=;~;-»-J- 


;=t- 


Egr 


. . .  mostrar-te   la        pun 


ta la  punta  del 


pie. 


♦  *-♦-  -m-  -m-  -m-  *-if--S- -     -    "5" 

EJ      E-^'       E-J 


POPULAR    SONGS  AND    DANCES. 


535 


. . .  In  fiel  me  cnga  -  nas 


—  .--•  —  •— -H   I 


— ^f 


te piieril  me  enga    -   Sr. 


m 


>-  * 


it=kli; 


.« »_ 


r^gE^ 


-J*!---^-*-*;--    *- 


g^B;E^jl 


....  jay  que  Xiquel !       con  tu  Niqucl  pa-gns-te-nii       fe. 


mm^^^wMfmmmiHMMjm] 


LA    PALOMA. 
COUPLETS    ESPAGNOLS. 

A     FAVORITE     SONG     AMONG    THE     COMMON    PEOPLE. 


Allegretto.         8 


i^ 


;||EE^ELi^EIE^^^=7EJfE^ 


t — >^ 

— ^- 


=A: 


-, — •- 


Cuan  -  do 


li       de    la  Ha- 


.«. L 5  — t  _j L7|> g ij u : 


ba  -  na     ral   -  ga      me     Dios 


w- 


Na   -  die me  ha-vis  -  to       sa 

-9 


lir. .  .      si       no         fui      ro. 


Yu      na. 


tEE J  —  * a  - 


lin  -    da     Gua  -  chi 

3 


IS — ^-* > — ' — I >— K* — y 1> ' 


nan  -  ga     sa  -  11a         voy     yo. 


dolce. 


Que       se vi     no      tras     de 


^==^^E±E5EE^EEF_=^^^=^=^f£h^^iE==^?=E^-^3 

mi.... que     si        se  -  nor      si  a    tu    ven  -   ta  •    na        He  -  ga     u    -    na       Pa- 


536 


FACE    TO  FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


pfc:^ 


» 9~ 


— 9- 


-  lo  -  ma 

tra 
—  a  — 

ta 

la 

con      ca    -    ri     no    que    (^s  mi    i)er 

-   so  -  na . . . 

:i 

r=^-^^ 

— 0 — 
— 1 — 

— #  — 

-?:= 

— •- 

* b b 1-, *— ^ '— 

--• *-.— 

• 

r — — s^ 

^  I? 

y 

-f-- 

5- 

S^^H^i 


cuen  -  ta   -    la       tui 


ino  -  res     bien     de 
-3- 


vi    -    da. 


— »-F« — * — ^ — » — *--F->-;^-;— ^ 


CO    -    ro       na        la       de        flo  -  res   quees   co  -    sa 


-- ^— * — 0 — » — * — '-E-' 


b^ifJ 


3  3      1 

Ay  !  clii  -  ni  -  ta     que       si 

fen. 
3 


*=■ 


mMm 


3  3 

ay  que     da     me  t u a  -  mor         .ay! 


-^3E?EEh. 


que  ren-te   con  -  mi  •  go   clii     ni 

-H — 


ta 


a  -  don-de     vi   -  vo 


yo 


2lg3- 


•^i 


3  3 

ay!  que     da  -  nie     tua  •  m<ir      ay!. 


El  dia  que  nos  casemos 

ValCTame  Dios  ! 
En  la  semana  que  hay  ir 

Mc  hace  reir 
Desde  la  Yglesia  juntitos 

Que  si  seiior 
Nos  hiremos  a  dorniir 

Alia  voy  yo 
Si  a  tu  ventana  lle<ra,   etc. 


POPULAR    SONGS  AND   DANCES.  537 

3 

Cuando  el  curita  nos  seche 

La  bendicion 
En  la  Yglesia  Catr<5dal 

Alia  voy  yo 
Yo  te  dare  la  manita 

Con  mucho  amor 
Yel  cura  dos  hisopazos 

Que  si  senor 
Si  a  tu  ventana  llega,   etc. 

4 
Cuando  haya  pasado  tienipo 

Valgame  Dios  ! 
De  que  estemos  casaditos 

Pues  si  senor 
Lo  menos  tendremos  siete 

Y  que  furor  ! 
O  quince  guachinanguitos 

Alia  voy  yo 
Si  a  tu  ventana  llega,   etc. 


CHAPTER   XX. 


ADVANTAGES   AND   DISADVANTAGES. 


REVIOUS  to  the  advent  of  rail- 
ways, and  eppecially  the  comple- 
tion of  the  Mexican  Central, 
Mexico  was  a  sealed  book  to  the 
majority  of  Americans.  To  take 
up  an  abode  there  at  that  time, 
one  was  as  securely  bottled, 
corked  and  labeled  for  utter  iso- 
lation from  kindred  and  friends, 
as  though  banished  to  Kamt- 
chatka  or  the  South  Sea  Islands. 
Without  railways,  telegraphs 
and  their  attendant  blessings, 
Mexico  was  left  to  her  own  internal  strife  and  commotion  ;  the  in- 
centives to  progress  were  wanting ;  while  Texas,  only  across  the 
river,  possessing  these  advantages,  has,  in  an  incredibly  short  period, 
grown  to  be  one  of  the  foremost  States  in  the  Union,  basking  serenely 
in  the  sunlight  of  an  unprecedented   prosperity. 

Considered  geographically  and  topographically  in  the  great  feder- 
ation of  nations,  the  United  States  and  Mexico  should  be  on  better 
terms,  commercially  and  socially,  than  any  other  people.  The  one  is 
situated  mostly  within  the  tropics — in  the  torrid  zone  ;  the  other  in  the 
temperate;  and  together  they  produce  all  those  commodities  which  are 
necessary  to  the  comfort  and  convenience  of  their  respective  inhabit- 
ants. Their  shores  are  girdled  by  the  same  vast  water  belt,  and  by 
nature  they  were  intended  to  be, the  full  complement  of  each  other. 
Mexico  can  produce  enough  coffee  of  every  grade  to  supply  the  world, 
to  say  nothing  of  her  sugar,  India-rubber,  indigo,  dye-woods,  vanilla, 
as  well  as  numerous  other  articles    of   prime    export.     She  has   also 


ADVAATAGES  AND   DISADVANTAGES. 


539 


a  large  and  varied  assortment  of  delicious  fruits  and  an  unlimited  supr 
ply  of  the  precious  metals  which  regulate  the  commerce  of  nations. 

But  Mexico  is  not  a  manufacturing  country,  and,  peihaps,  will 
never  be,  while  the  United  States  has  great  need  for  a  wider  market 
for  her  manufactured  goods,  which  Mexico  can  purchase  of  no  other 
country  to  the  same  advantage.  But  as  yet  our  trade  is  not  one-tenth 
part  of  what  it  should  be.  Lamentable  the  fact,  we  have  been  the 
very  last  foreign  power  to  place  ourselves  on  a  proper  footing  with  our 


THE    OLD    AND   NEW    CIVILIZATION. 


near  neighbors.  A  deep  and  subtle  influence  lies  at  the  foundation. 
In  the  fullness  of  our  well-earned  greatness  and  self-esteem,  we  consti- 
tute ourselves  teachers  and  judges  of  customs,  business  relations  and 
social  intercourse,  under  conditions  far  different  from  our  own.  We 
have  made  a  high  standard  for  ourselves,  and  if  other  people  do  not 
approximate  it,  they  must  be  at  fault. 

But  this  failure  to  understand  each  other  is  due  to  several  cau.ses. 
In  the  first  place,  we  have  made  no  effort  to  understand  them,  and, 
again,  unworthy  representatives  of  our  country  do  not  hesitate  to  de- 
nounce, publicly  upon  the  street,  both  the  government  and  the  people, 
and  declare  in-  boastful  fashion  the  ability,  if  not  the  immediate  inten- 


540  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICAXS. 

tion,  of  the  American  eagle  to  swoop  down  upon  them  and  "  wipe 
'em  out  in  sixty  days."  They  talk  unreservedly  and  offensively  about 
the  prospects  of  a  speedy  annexation  ;  of  a  protectorate,  and  the 
gigantic  scheme  of  absorption,  all  of  which  cannot  fail  to  engender  much 
ill-feeling  and  animosity.  It  recalls  afresh  to  the  sensitive  Mexican 
mind  the  "  North  American  invasion  " — the  loss  of  valuable  territory, 
and  the  general  distress  that  pervaded  the  country. 

Then  again  we  have  been  full  of  unjust  doubts  as  to  the  integrity 
of  our  neighbors.  The  consequence  has  been  that  the  keen  discrimi- 
nation of  our  friends  across  the  water  has  long  since  gathered  to 
themselves  the  friendly  relations  as  well  as  the  profitable  emoluments 
of  trade  which  legitimately  belong  to  us. 

To  compete  successfully  with  the  diplomatic  methods  of  the  Eng- 
lish, French  and  Germans  requires  tact  and  skillful  manipulation.  Of 
the  many  Americans  who  gaze  from  afar  with  longing  eyes  on  the 
prospect  for  business  investments,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  not  one  in  five 
thousand  has  the  slightest  idea  of  the  nature  of  the  difficulties  to  be 
met  and  overcome  in  order  to  realize  these  prospects.  In  endeavor- 
ing to  establish  business  relations,  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  it  is 
not  with  one  race  he  has  to  do,  but  with  various  shades,  mixtures  and 
types  ;  with  sentiments  and  prejudices,  diverse  and  in  common,  all  to 
be  met,  pandered  to,  and  softened  into  harmony. 

The  average  American  has  the  impression  that,  should  he  locate  in 
Mexico,  and  exercise  his  accustomed  force  and  energy,  much  sooner 
will  he  reach  the  acme  of  his  hopes  and  the  realization  of  his  golden 
dreams.  Delusive  thought!  It  does  not  require  much  time  to  un- 
deceive him.  He  finds  that  no  push  whatever  is  expected  or  re- 
quired ;  in  fact,  the  less  he  has  the  better,  for  he  must  learn  to  bend 
to  the  slow — very  slow — methods  of  the  Mexican  ;  to  accept  the  dolce 
far  tiicnte  of  the  country.  Business  customs  and  habits  confront  him 
which  yield  but  slowly  to  modern  ideas,  while  the  necessary  schooling 
in  the  ntanana  system,  and  the  still  more  difficult  lesson  that.  Toots- 
like,  time  is  of  "  no  consequence,"  must  chafe  his  restless  spirit,  and 
dampen  his  impassioned  ardor. 


ADVAXTAGES  AXD   DISA DVANTAGhS. 


541 


It  requires  a  discriminating  eye  and  a  suave,  agreeable  manner  to 
obtain  and  hold  the  trade.  So  many  things  must  be  consulted  and 
considered  that  in  other  countries  have  no  relation  whatever  to  busi- 
ness ;  but  without  which  everything  is  tame  and  void  of  interest  to 
the  Mexican.  It  is  necessary  to  study  carefully  the  language,  cus- 
toms, habits  and  sentiments  of  the  people  ;  to  familiarize  one's  self 
with  the  business  methods,  custom-house  laws  and  the  tariff.  Usually 
in  the  haste  to  acquire  a  foothold,  the  smaller  and  more   important 


NATliiNAl,    i'Al  A'   B    AT    THR    CAPITAL. 


details  are  lost  sight  of,  but   it  is  only  by  observing  them  that  success 
will  follow. 

The  prejudice  of  Mexicans  against  Americans  is  not  so  strong  as 
the  enemies  of  American  interests  would  have  residents  of  the  United 
States  believe.  The  various  concessions,  granted  Americans  both  in 
the  past  and  present,  by  the  State  and  Federal  Governments  of  Me.x- 
ico,  are  proofs  of  this  fact.  But  a  wider  and  more  extended  com- 
munication between  the  two  countries — more  travel  through  Mexico 
by  Americans  and  vice  versa — would  conduce  to  a  better  understand- 


5P  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

ing.  Let  our  people  make  an  effort  to  know  the  '■  Mexicans  in  their 
Homes,"  and  an  open  hospitality  be  tendered  to  them  when  they  visit 
our  country.     No  diplomacy  could  be  so  effective. 

As  an  American  woman  I  am  justly  proud  of  our  institutions,  of 
our  prowess,  strength  and  unity  of  purpose.  We  have  indeed  left 
behind  us  in  our  onward  march  of  progress  every  other  nation,  and 
are  pre-eminently  the  "  heirs  of  all  the  ages."  No  country  nor  clime 
can  compare  with  ours,  and  our  representative  men  and  women  take 
rank  and  precedence  wherever  they  come  in  contact  with  those  of 
other  countries.  Perhaps  it  is  the  consciousness  of  our  greatness  that 
makes  us  less  adaptable  than  others. 

Hut  our  modern  progressive  institutions  cannot  thrust  themselves 
unceremoniously  and  without  caution  upon  a  country  whose  civiliza- 
tion dates  back  more  than  two  hundred  years  before  our  own.  We 
must  learn  to  "  apply  our  hearts  unto  wisdom  and  pass  into  strange 
countries,  for  good  things  were  created  for  the  good  from  the  begin- 
ning." 

We  must  educate  ourselves  up  to  the  point  of  believing  that  we 
can  attribute  the  frailties  and  defects  of  any  people  as  much  to  human 
nature  as  to  national  forces. 

Whatever  our  differences  of  race,  training  and  feeling,  we  can  all 
do  something  for  the  happiness  and  well-bemg  of  those  around  us,  and 
if  other  opportunities  fail,  there  is  always  room  for  the  bestowal  of  a 
helpful  and  sympathetic  word. 

But  in  no  country  do  fame  and  friends  come  to  us  unless  we  have 
earned  as  well  as  desired  them.  Usually,  like  success,  they  come  as 
the  hard-bought  recompense  of  persevering  effort,  and  of  patient 
waiting,  and  at  last  must  rest  with  ourselves.  We  must  carry  into 
our  common  lives  that  grand  and  ennobling  sentiment  that  unless  we 
trust  we  will  not  be  trusted. 

In  brief,  if  you  go  to  Mexico,  do  not  hope  to  effect  radical 
changes,  or  constitute  yourself  judge  and  reformer,  but  rather  be  pre- 
pared, instead  of  teaching,  to  be  taught.  Go  determined  to  see 
things   in   a  just  light,  to  make  liberal   allowances   for  whatever  does 


ADVA.VTAGES  AND    DISADVANTAGES.  543 

not  coincide  with  your  own  habits  and  training,  and  accommodate 
yourself  with  becoming  grace  to  what  you  will  there  meet. 

The  much-desired  first  step  toward  the  establishment  of  a  mutual 
understanding  and  an  international  interest  was  taken  at  the  New 
Orleans  Exposition  of  1884-5,  which  marked  a  new  era  in  the  history 
of  Mexico,  and  throughout  succeeding  time  will  be  turned  to,  as  a 
beneficent  agency,  having  brought  before  the  public  mind  in  the 
United  States  the  various  resources,  the  taste,  skill  and  ingenuity,  as 
well  as  the  musical  talent  and  proficiency  of  the  Mexican  people. 

Following  closely  upon  this  was  the  Mexican  Editorial  Excursion 
to  the  United  States,  when  the  men  who  wield  the  instrument 
"  mightier  than  the  sword,"  were  feasted  and  toasted  everywhere. 
Being  thus  enabled  to  see  the  representative  American  on  his  own 
soil,  either  with  the  entourage  of  high  position  in  political  and  social 
life,  or  at  home  with  his  household  gods  about  him,  they  each  and  all 
returned  with  a  better  feeling  toward  our  people. 

One  of  these  editors,  Seftor  Alberto  Bianchi,,  has  published  a  book 
with  illustrations,  descriptive  of  the  journeyings  and  impressions  of 
the  excursionists.  Since  their  return  they  have  interested  themselves 
largely,  in  their  different  sections,  in  the  cause  of  public  education, 
and  some  have  established  normal  schools. 

But  the  future  greatness  of  Mexico  depends  more  upon  the  de- 
velopment of  her  internal  resources  than  upon  the  introduction  of 
foreign  manufactures;  more,  too,  upon  her  agricultural  and  domestic 
industries  than  on  mines,  mining,  or  the  now  widely  scattered  facto- 
ries and  mills.  An  untold  wealth  lies  dormant  in  her  bosom,  an  un- 
computed  richness  in  her  veins.  The  seemingly  insignificant  agencies 
which  by  cultivation  have  given  impetus  and  strength  to  our  own 
internal  greatness,  are  to-day  in  their  infancy  in  our  sister  republic. 

With  a  population  of  ten  millions,  Mexico  cannot,  strictly  speak- 
ing, be  called  a  consuming  country,  for  the  reason  that  the  majority 
of  her  people  are  the  humble  poor  who  live  solely  on  home  product ; 
who  neither  know  nor  ask  anything  beyond  manta,  tortilla,  chili,  and 
cigarette.     It   is  quite  manifest,  however,  that  trade  with  the  United 


544  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH   THE    MEXICANS. 

States  is  yearly  increasing.  There  is  now  a  market  for  hardware  of 
all  kinds  ;  agricultural  implements,  axes,  wagons,  carriages,  harnesses, 
pianos  and  organs  ;  also  for  prints,  fine  cottons,  mill  and  mining  tools 
and  machinery,  hosiery,  flannels,  woolens  for  ladies'  and  gentlemen's 
wear  ;  glassware,  lamps  and  gas  fixtures,  furniture,  leather,  hats,  trunks 
and  valises,  fire-arms,  scientific  and  surgical  instruments,  etc. 

England  and  Germany  have  heretofore  controlled  the  trade  in 
hardware  and  agricultural  implements,  while  France  has  maintained 
the  supremacy  in  fine  fabrics.  But  the  superiority  of  American  ma- 
chinery and  manufactured  goods  has  been  recognized,  and  it  is  now 
evident  that  in  these  lines  we  are  driving  other  competitors  to  the 
wall. 

The  fact  is  generally  conceded  that  temporary  traveling  agents, 
unless  already  acquainted  with  the  language,  tastes  and  habits  of  the 
people,  can  effect  no  good.  A  permanent  residence  is  necessary, 
whereby  they  are  enabled  to  study  the  all-important  details.  Great 
care  should  be  exercised,  in  the  selection  of  these  agents  or  commis- 
sion merchants,  that  they  be  of  a  genial,  conciliatory  disposition, 
steady  habits,  and  gentlemanly  address,  never  in  a  hurry,  and  give 
attention  to  dress  and  personal  appearance. 

The  enterprising  North  American  commercial  traveler,  always  in 
a  hurry,  rushes  in  upon  a  quiet  Mexican  business  man,  opens  his  grip, 
exhibits  his  samples,  and  fails  to  effect  a  sale.  The  reason  is  obvious: 
he  has  disgusted  the  merchant  by  his  too  eager  and  energetic  manner. 
How  different  with  Europeans  !  They  have  caught  the  spirit  and 
habit  of  the  Mexican  to  a  nicety.  Not  alone  in  the  outside  world  of 
business,  but  in  the  home  life  also,  are  they  more  in  harmony  with 
him.  They  have  learned  what  we  have  yet  to  learn,  to  make  haste 
slowly.  The  German  or  French  agent  will  negotiate  through  diplo- 
macy, and  seek  by  social  courtesy  first  to  enter  the  good  graces  of  the 
Mexican  merchant.  When  they  come  in  contact,  both  are  probably 
well  aware  what  the  ultimate  aim  and  object  is,  but  of  trade  or  busi- 
ness not  a  word  is  spoken.  The  agent  inquires  after  the  health  of  the 
merchant  and   his   family.     They  smoke,   chat   of  travels,  and    other 


ADVANTAGES  A  AD   DISADVANTAGES.  545 

kindred  topics.  The  pride  of  tlie  Mexican  is  natiirall}-  gratified  when 
he  finds  our  man  at  least  who  knows  how  to  take  things  slowly  and 
pleasantl}-  and  without  hnisqucric.  Perhaps  half  a  dozen  such  inter- 
views occur  before  a  word  is  spoken  about  business,  but  the  agent, 
beyond  all  doubt,  has  secured  his  victim. 

The  apostolic  injunction  to  "  let  patience  have  her  perfect  work" 
must  here  be  lieeded  in  the  business  world  no  less  than  in  the  higher 
discipline  of  life. 

Good  faith  in  all  transactions  is  a  prime  necessity  ;  therefore  it  is 
essential  that  goods  supplied  should  be  according  to  samples.  Two 
intelligent  Mexican  merchants  with  whom  I  became  acquainted,  in- 
formed me  that  their  own  e.xperience  had  been  unsatisfactory  in  buying 
from  traveling  agents.  Goods  furnished  not  only  did  not  correspond 
with  samples  in  color  or  texture,  but  even  the  prices  were  different. 
They  also  said  that  in  such  matters  other  foreign  sellers  were  careful 
to  send  exactly  what  was  ordered,  even  if  it  required  much  time  and 
labor.  European  importers  cater  to  the  popular  taste,  even  to  the 
packing  and  shipping  of  goods,  making  a  reduction  in  bulk  and  weight 
by  shipping  in  bales  instead  of  boxes,  giving  long  credit  on  all  bills, 
and  by  every  available  means  endeavor  to  save  trouble  to  their  custom- 
ers. Calculations  are  also  made  that  the  native  railroads,  in  the  shape 
of  burros  or  carts,  may  readily  transport  the  goods  to  interior  cities. 
Americans  generally  overlook  these  details,  and  ship  their  goods  in 
heavy  wooden  bo-xes,  in  every  way  objectionable. 

Besides,  the  fastidious  taste  of  the  Me.xican  as  to  color  and  te.xlure 
is  lost  sight  of  ;  they  forget  his  whole  nature  is  antagonistic  to  dull 
colors,  coarse  woof,  and  unseemly  assortment.  The  French  have 
caught  the  popular  fancy  in  taste  and  delicacy.  Light  and  airy  fabrics 
with  cunning  devices,  adding  unique  effects  to  the  artistic  arrange- 
ment, catch  at  once  the  Mexican  eye. 

F"oreigners  from  the  old  country  arc  content  to  make  a  very  little 
headway  at  a  time,  and  to  utilize  every  facility  they  can  command  to 
the  very  best  advantage.  If  they  prosper  in  business,  the  young 
brothers  and  cousins  at  home  are  not  forgotten,  and  as  soon  as  cir- 


54^  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

cumstances  will  permit,  they  are  brought  out  to  act  as  clerks,  and  fill 
other  places  of  confidence,  proving  invaluable  aids  to  the  heads  of 
the  establishment  and  strengthening  their  position. 

An  evidence  of  how  other  foreigners  study  to  please  the  Mexicans, 
even  to  the  details  of  dress,  I  observed  in  traveling  with  a  young 
Englishman  who  had  lived  in  the  United  States  for  six  years.  He 
was  then  about  to  join  his  brother,  who  had  resided  for  some  years  in 
Mexico.  Naturally  this  subject  was  under  discussion  between  us. 
He  frankly  told  me  that  his  brother  had  written  to  him  on  no  account 
to  wear  anything  that  looked  American,  and  especially  to  refrain  from 
wearing  an  American  slouch  hat,  as  the  Mexicans  detested  that  article 
heartily.  Take  warning,  my  countrymen  !  If  you  cannot  wear  a 
beaver,  then  a  Derby —  i  stiff,  half  high,  or  the  genuine  wide-brimmed, 
silver-decked  sombrero. 

He  certainly  had  obeyed  the  injunction,  for  he  was  a  live  represent- 
ative of  John  Bull,  from  the  ape.x  of  his  prim-sitting  hat,  to  the  tip 
end  of  his  square  English  foot.  But  I  was  glad  to  see  him  thus  pre- 
pare himself  for  his  future  life  associations,  and  candidl)'  told  him  I 
should  expect  to  hear  of  a  marvelous  success  from  Jiis  sojourn  in 
Mexico. 

After  my  arrival  in  the  capital  I  found  his  brother's  firm,  that  of 
B.,  S  ,  R.,  C.  &  Co  ,  had  made  for  themselves  an  enviable  name  as 
architects,  mining  engineers  and  contractors.  I  had  the  satisfaction 
of  seeing  v/ith  my  own  eyes  that  the  wise  head  wiiich  had  planned 
his  brother's  advent  into  the  country  had  practiced  literally  what  he 
preached.  As  an  equestrian,  the  native  gorgeousncss  quite  melted 
into  insignificance  by  comparison  ;  while  in  whatever  society,  foreign 
or  native,  he  was  a  shining  light  and  noted  for  the  suavity  of  his 
manners. 

The  last  I  heard  of  the  newly  inducted  young  traveler  bent  on 
conquest,  he  was  mounted  on  a  litter  going  to  Oaxaca,  a  seven  days' 
journey,  as  a  mining  engineer. 

Mexicans  are  not  generally  wholesale  merchants.  Those  who  have 
sufficient  means  to  become   such,  prefer  investing  in  haciendas,  which 


ADrAXVAGES  AXD   DISADVAXTAGES.  ^A7 

are  a  sure  source  of  profit  and  much  less  trouble.  The  smaller  I'ctail 
trade,  however,  is  chicfl\-  controlled  by  them,  and  in  this  field  thc>-  arc 
both  able  and  successful.  They  are  declared,  on  ccnpctent  author- 
ity, to  be  strict,  if  somewhat  slow,  in  meeting  their  obligations.  But 
slowness,  where  everything  is  slow,  need  not  necessarily  be  considered 
detrimental;  and  it  may  general!}-  be  assumed  that  if  they  do  not  pay, 
it  is  because  they  have  not  the  money — a  condition  not  surprising  in 
the  financial  depression  of  the  last  few  years. 

Native  retailers  manage  their  business  most  skillfully.  With  a  full 
estimate  of  the  value  of  everything  they  desire  to  exchange,  barter,  or 
sell,  they  will  ask  the  outside  price,  at  the  same  time  reading  critically 
the  character  of  their  customer;  if  the  price  demanded  will  not 
secure  him,  most  graciously  and  gracefully  they  will  accept  a  lower. 

To  their  powers  of  manipulation  may  be  accredited  the  fact  that 
in  no  part  of  the  country  have  the  Jews,  to  any  extent,  been  able  to 
obtain  a  foothold  in  mercantile  life.  The  Mexican  is  even  more 
suave,  more  entertaining,  and  more  determined  in  his  mode  of  selling 
than  the  most  smooth-tongued  representative  of  the  Israelitish  race. 
He  can  sustain  himself  comfortably  on  a  smaller  profit,  and  is  content 
to  do  so,  as  long  as  he  is  assured  of  holding  his  customer.  The  native, 
however,  has  not  a  monopoly  of  the  retail  trade.  Frequently  he  ha.s 
associated  with  him  cither  a  Spaniard,  Frenchman,  or  Italian,  and 
again  these  are  established  with  success,  independently. 

The  capital  is  naturally  the  great  emporium,  the  business  of  the 
country  being  concentrated  there.  The  cities  and  towns  along  the 
Rio  Grande  may  possibly  conduct  some  traffic  with  the  United  States, 
and  certainly  an  immense  amount  of  smuggling  is  done;  but  the  main 
supplies  come  from  the  capital. 

Mexico  affords  a  striking  illustration  of  the  extremes  of  wealtii  and 
poverty.  A  late  estimate  by  one  who  is  well  informed  gives  her 
only  about  five  hundred  thousand  people  who  are  wealthy  ;  while  the 
remainder  is  divided  between  those  with  moderately  comfortable  in- 
comes and  the  absolutely  poor.  But  among  the  former  there  is  a 
large  professional   and  shop-keeping    class,   who  always    appear  well 


548  FACE     TO    FACE    WITH     THE    MEXICANS. 

dressed,  and  with  more  or  less  indications  of  competency,  but  whose 
incomes  are  meager  and  uncertain. 

Those  who  have  accumulated  large  fortunes  are,  after  all,  at  a  loss 
how  to  find  suitable  investments.  A  distinguished  Mexican  statesman 
has  estimated  that  an  uninvested  capital  of  $50,000,000  exists  in  the 
City  of  Mexico  to-day,  a  sum  large  enough  to  build  and  equip  a  rail- 
way to  some  extreme  point  of  the  republic. 

This  is  the  case  in  every  large  city.  Immense  sums  of  money  are 
m  the  hands  of  the  rich  in  absolute  bulk,  without  any  outlet  or  means 
of  investment. 

Stock  companies  and  co-operative  plans  do  not  strike,  as  tangible, 
the  popular  fancy.  The  best  thing  generally  is  for  this  class  to  build 
houses  and  rent  them,  or  lend  their  money  at  very  high  rales. 

Banking  privileges  are  not  usually  resorted  to  by  either  the  trades- 
people or  the  merchant  princes.  The  "  Bank  of  London,  Mexico  and 
South  America  "  has  been  established  for  twenty-one  j'ears,  yet  even 
now  the  majority  of  people  do  not  avail  themselves  of  it.  Merchants 
use  it  for  exchange,  and  also  as  a  means  of  safety  for  large  sums  in 
silver  dollars,  this  last  sometimes  for  a  very  short  time,  perhaps  for 
one  day  and  night,  after  which  their  viozos  may  be  seen  carrying  it 
back  in  meal-bags.  Perhaps  a  prejudice  may  attach  to  mere  bits  of 
paper  as  the  representatives  of  big  silver  dollars,  but  checks  are  not 
used  after  our  method,  nor  is  banking  resorted  to  except  as  a  means 
of  commercial  convenience.  For  the  mechanic  or  tradesman  no 
facilities  whatever  exist  in  the  way  of  savings  banks  for  the  deposit 
of  their  small  earnings.  Consequently  more  or  less  extravagance  is 
indulged  in,  or  the  money  is  hidden  away  without  profit  to  them- 
selves or  to  the  country. 

Notwithstanding  the  rainy  season,  success  in  agriculture  in  Mexico 
depends  almost  solely  on  the  facilities  for  irrigation.  Every  drop  of 
water  is  skillfull)-  utilized.  Often,  indeed,  the  entire  body  of  water  is 
turned  from  its  legitimate  course,  and  employed  in  irrigating  a  large 
and  otherwise  profitless  region.  If  a  river  runs  near  to  or  through 
several  haciendas,  the  proprietors  unite  in   constructing  a  dam   across 


ADVANTAGES   AXD   DISADVANTAGES.  551 

it,  with  large  ditches  to  convey  the  water  through  the  fields.  They 
employ  a  man  to  take  charge  of  its  distribution,  and  during  the  farm- 
ing season  he  must  be  on  hand  both  day  and  nigjit,  to  turn  the  w^ter 
on  and  off,  as  may  be  necessary. 

Lands  rent  for  one-third  and  one-half  of  the  crop.  The  propri- 
etor furnishes  no  teams,  and  the  yield  of  corn  is  from  thirty-five  to 
forty  bushels  per  acre. 

A  hacienda,  it  must  be  understood,  is  a  large  plantation,  and  not 
a  ranch  for  cattle,  although  one  proprietor  may  own  both.  In  this 
case,  the  farming  is  kept  separate  from  the  cattle  raising.  A  church 
and  .store  are  inseparable  adjuncts  to  the  well-kept  hacienda.  The 
peons  buy  the  necessaries  of  life  from  the  store,  which  of  course 
keeps  them  always  in  debt,  thus  securing  their  services.  Unless  the 
proprietor  of  some  other  hacienda  pays  the  debt,  they  of  course  can- 
not leave. 

There  are  two  classes  of  peons,  those  who  are  in  debt  and  those 
who  are  not.  The  former  are  by  far  the  more  numerous,  and  are 
called  calpaneros  or  ganancs.  The  names  and  salaries  of  the  principal 
employes  are  as  follows : 

Ad/i!iius/rador,\v\\o  is  |)aid  from  $70  lo  $100  per  month. 
Alayordomo,  "       "         "       30  "       60     " 

Ayttdanfe.  "       "         "        15   "       30     "         " 

Sobrc  saliente,  "       "         "'       8  "       25     "         " 

Capitan,  "       "         "         S   "       20     " 

Trojero,  who  has  charge  of  the  keys  and  keeps  the  ac- 
counts of  the  hacienda  ;  paid  from  $1 5  to  $30  per 
month  ;  and  a  doctor,  who  is  also  paid  by  the 
month. 

The  priest  is  paid  for  his  services  as  they  are  rendered.  The 
founder,  wheel-wright,  and  carpenters  are  paid  by  the  job. 

The  mayordomo  and  the  capitan  are  allowed  horses  and  certain 
perquisites  from  the  hacieiida. 

These  capitans  are  rare  characters  in  and  of  themselves.     Though 


552 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICAXS. 


in  letters  he  may  be  the  most  ignorant,  yet  in  that  httle  narrow  skull 
he  can  carry  more  accounts  than  the  most 
expert  book-keeper.  He  knows  the  ante- 
cedents of  everybody  and  everything  on 
that  place.  He  is  a  peon  just  as  they  are, 
but  in  many  ways  he  shows  his  power  over 
them. 

The  accompanying  illustration,  taken 
from  life  at  San  Miguel  Sesma,  shows  him 
in  the  robes  and  dignity  of  his  of^ce. 

Every  night  the  raya  (an  account  of  the 
days'  doings)  is  gone  through  by  the  niayor- 
doiiio  and  capitaii,  who  come  to  the  office  of 
the  hacimida  to  give  an  account  to  the  ad- 
ministrador  of  what  has  been  done  during  the 
day.  The  names  of  the  peons  are  read,  and 
the  captain  answers  :  "  Cctonalc"  ("He  has 
worked  to-day  "),  or  "  Homo  clciio  "  ("  He  has 
not"),  as  the  case  may  be.  The  mayordomo  has  a  box  full  of  beans 
kept  for  the  purpose.  Each  time  the  captain  answers  "  Cctonale  "  or 
"  Homo  claw,"  a  bean  is  pushed  aside.  When  the  calling  and  answer- 
ing are  finished,  the  beans  in  the  two  piles  thus  formed  are  counted, 
and  the  result  entered  in  the  day-book.  The  captain  retires  and 
the  mayordomo  takes  orders  for  the  next  day. 

Everything  is  kept  as  systematically  as  in  a  banking  business. 
The  books  of  the  hacienda  are  under  government  seal,  and  any  one 
wishing  to  purchase  the  property  may  satisfy  himself  by  looking  at 
them. 

Haciendas  have  their  marketable  small  products,  such  as  pulque, 
wood,  milk,  lumber,  charcoal,  beans,  sheep,  goats,  and  many  others 
known  as  esquilmos.  Hogs  are  also  fattened,  but  they  are  little  used 
save  to  make  soap,  which  is  excellent  in  an}'  part  of  the  country. 

The  impression  prevails  that  the  peon  is  in  such  a  state  of  servi- 
tude  that    he  can    be    easily  compelled   to  adopt    an}-    methoils    his 


ADVAATAGES  AND   DISADVANTAGES. 


553 


employer  may  sue  fit  to  impose  upon  him  ;   but  the   fallacy  of  this  is 
too  well  known  by  all  who  liavc  tried  the  experiment  of  farminLj. 
The   peon,  like  the  rest  of  his  race,  has  an   instinctive  dislike  to 


A    MKXICAN    PLUWMAN. 


fields,  while  he  unceremoniously  returns  to  the  ancient  forked  stick. 
He  hugs  the  rawhide  harness  thongs  and  straps,  and  the  primitive 
fixtures  of  his  forefathers,  and  will  not  yield  them  up  without  a  deter- 
mined resistance. 

In  the  hope  of  compromising  matters  with  these  ultra-conserva- 
tives, a  wide-awake  Chicago  firm  has  recenti)'  invented  and  patented  a 
steel  plow  that  is  the  exact  reproduction  of  the  forked  stick  and  makes 
a  furrow   much  deeper,  whereby  finer  results  are  obtained. 

1  visited  several  Iiacicndas,  and  on  each  more  or  less  of  our  agri- 
cultural implements  were  used.  Every  agent  with  whom  I  conversed 
spoke  hopefully  that  finally  the  products  of  our  manufactories  would 
prevail  over  any  and  every  competition.  But  with  the  inherent  preju- 
dice of  the  peon,  it  is  not  a  source  of  wonder  that  even  a  progressive 
Iiaccndado  hesitates  to  introduce  any  new  form.  On  some  plantations 
both  the  ancient  and  modern  work  side  by  side.  But  on  many  large 
estates  one  sees  as  yet  only  the  usages  of  the  Romans  or  ancient 
Europeans.     It  is  easy  for  the  mind  to  travel  backward  to  the  days 


554 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE  MEXICANS. 


when  the  Moors  conquered  Spain.  They  did  not  desire  the  advance- 
ment of  the  people,  and,  bent  on  conquest,  introduced  few  improve- 
ments except  those  connected  with  their  warlike  enterprises. 

In  their  turn  the  Spaniards  have  impressed  the  character  of  their 
civilization  upon  the  Mexicans. 

A  further  retrospect,  and  we  find  ourselves  face  to  face  with  Bible 
scenes.  The  glean- 
ers follow  closely 
after  the  harvesters, 
as  then  ;  the  story 
of  Ruth  may  per- 
haps find  many  a 
parallel  here. 

Some  Mexican 
writers  have  remon- 
strated against  the 
introduction  of  la- 
bor-saving machin- 
ery, fearing  it  would 
militate  against  the  , 
interests  of  that 
large  proportion  of 
the  population — 
the  laboring  class.  But  as  the  undeveloped  resources  are  so  immense, 
it  will  probably  be  long  before  interference  in  that  direction  will  be 
felt,  for  the  cry  still  goes  up  for  more  laborers  for  both  mines  and 
haciendas. 

One  of  the  principal  causes  of  this  want  may  be  attributed  to  the 
constant  recurrence  of  feast-days,  the  observance  of  which  occupies  at 
least  one-third  of  the  time.  It  is  anything  but  a  pious  spirit  that  in- 
duces the  laborer  to  take  advantage  of  these  occasions,  but  rather  his 
innate  love  of  ease  and  dissipation.  These  days  are  to  him  more  lioli- 
days  than  holy  days.  But  it  is  astonishing  how  little  these  people  can 
exist  upon.     In  spite  of  their  small  wages  being  in  this  way  so  mate- 


ADOBR    HOUSES. 


ADVANTAGES   AXD   DISADVANTAGES.  555 

rially  decreased,  they  manage  to  live,  and  not  uncomfortably  either, 
on  a  mere  pittance  ;  whole  families,  sometimes,  spending  but  twelve  or 
even  six  cents  a  day. 

The  following  extract  is  from  a  late  letter  to  the  Boston  Herald,  by 
Mr.  F.  R.  Guernsey,  the  regular  correspondent  of  that  paper.  Mr. 
Guernsey  has  resided  in  Mexico  for  several  years,  and  is  a  very  close 
observer  and  accurate  narrator.  This  is  what  he  says  on  the  subject 
of  introducing  foreign  labor:  "  What  Mexico  needs  is  such  a  flood  of 
immigration  as  is  being  poured  on  the  shores  of  the  Argentine  Repub- 
lic, that  Mecca  of  the  Italian  farmer  class.  A  proposition  was  recently 
made  here  for  the  introduction  of  Irish  immigrants  into  the  State  of 
Oaxaca,  where  large  tracts  of  land  could  be  secured  for  them  at  very 
low  rates,  and  coffee  and  tobacco  culture  introduced  on  a  large 
scale.  I  have  no  doubt  that  a  large  Irish  colony,  started  in  Oaxaca 
under  intelligent  supervision  and  with  due  provision  for  getting  their 
crops  to  market,  could  be  built  up  into  a  prosperous  community.  The 
Irish,  being  mostly  Catholics,  would  not  provoke  religious  hostility 
among  the  natives,  and  their  sympathetic  and  gay  temperament  would 
commend  them  to  the  nation  at  large.  There  is  land  enough,  and  to 
spare,  in  this  favored  country  for  all  Ireland,  and  here  the  sons  of 
Irishmen  would  become  men  of  property  and  influence.  There  are 
many  Irish  names  in  Mexican  history  as  there  are  also  in  Chilian  an- 
nals. An  '  O'Donaju  '  was  famous  here  in  old  days,  and  along  the  west 
coast  of  South  America  the  'Lynches'  and  Cochranes '  are  noted 
names.  The  '  Morans  '  are  a  noted  family  here.  Other  names  common 
here  suggest  Irish  ancestry.  This  matter  might  well  be  studied  by 
persons  interested  in  settling  Irish  emigrants  on  land  of  their  own,  and 
so  giving  to  their  children  an  honorable  career  beyond  the  reach  of 
grasping  landlords.  Several  colonies  in  this  country  are  prospering, 
especially  that  founded  at  Ensenada,  Lower  California,  under  the 
auspices  of  the  International  Company,  a  Connecticut  corporation. 
The  railway  system  of  the  country,  as  it  increases,  will  make  markets 
for  regions  now  isolated,  and  thus  render  agriculture  more  and  more 
remunerative." 


55*5  FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

The  difficulty  of  transportation  remains  a  serious  drawback  to 
every  enterprise  to  be  carried  on  in  tlie  republic.  This  is  so  obvious 
as  to  render  credible  the  statement  that  an  over-crop  is  as  detrimental 
as  an  insufificient  one.  When  there  is  a  large  surplus,  much  waste 
must  ensue  for  lack  of  the  means  of  transportation.  If  the  crop  is  a 
short  one,  the  natives  must  go  on  foot  and  carry  "  corn  from  Egypt." 
In  any  case  it  is  the  masses  o{ pobres  who  suffer,  and  the  need  for  not 
only  more  railways,  but  also  for  wagons  and  roads,  is  a  real  one.  If 
only  the  hoarded  wealth  of  the  country  were  thus  applied,  Mexico 
would  not  long  be  in  the  rear  of  other  countries. 

Under  tiie  present  land  tenure,  the  owners  almost  escape  taxation, 
while  the  peon,  or  the  man  who  takes  the  products  to  market,  must 
pay  enormous  taxes,  at  the  gates  of  the  cities,  where  the  tax  gatherers 
are  located.  A  barrel  of  flour  may  be  taxed  a  dozen  or  twenty  times 
before  it  reaches  the  market.  Every  State,  city,  and  municipality 
through  which  it  passes  has  its  own  laws  of  taxation.  Every  page  of 
a  merchant's  ledger  or  cash-book  must  have  a  stamp.  Every  receipt 
must  liave  one  at  the  rate  of  one  cent  for  every  $20.  Tickets  of 
all  sorts — even  to  the  theater — contracts,  bills,  and  a  number  of  other 
things  must  have  stamps.  But  the  man  who  owns  houses  pays  no 
taxes  except  when  they  are  rented.  This,  it  may  be  added,  is  the 
reason  of  the  high  rents. 

The  lack  of  water  naturally  limits  and  impedes  manufacturing,  and 
the  scarcity  of  fuel  places  a  dead  incubus  upon  it.  The  government 
has  nurtured  and  given  all  the  aid  and  encouragement  in  its  power  to 
such  enterprises,  but  it  is  difficult  if  not  impossible  to  rise  superior  to 
such  great  natural  obstacles.  Wood  commands  from  $15  to  $18  per 
cord,  which  is,  of  itself,  enough  to  interdict  the  use  of  .steam.  But 
there  is  a  solution  in  the  future  to  this  question  of  fuel.  There  is  no 
wider  field  for  enterprising  capitalists  than  the  opening  up  of  the  vast 
coal  deposits  that  exist  in  the  various  States.  In  Durango  there  are 
very  fine  deposits  of  hard  coal.  In  other  places  many  varieties  are  to 
be  found  ;  and  the  States  of  Oaxaca  and  Puebla  abound  in  coal  of  a 
fine   qualit)'.     Surely  this  will   prove  a  great   blessing  to  the  country, 


ADVANTAGES  AND   DISADVANTAGES. 


55; 


and  a  powerful  agency  of  progress.  Petroleum  also  exists  in  great 
abundance,  but  is  still  undeveloped.  Though  Mexico  is  a  land  of 
light,  still  more  light  is  needed. 

The  culture  and  manufacture  of  silk  promise  success  in  the  future. 
Mulberry  trees  flourish  in  many  localities,  and  the  climate  is  so  fine 
that  silk-worms  require  no  protection. 

There  are  sections  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  cotton,  but  it  is 
cultivated  only  to  a  limited  extent  ;  the  principal  part  of  that  used 
being  supplied  from  the  United  States. 

The  mining  and  working  of  the  precious  metals  had  been  carried 
on  for  centuries  before  the  discovery  of  the  New  World.  We  read 
that  the  conquerors  were  amazed  and  their  cupidity  excited  b)-  the 
richness  and  splendid  workmanship  displayed  in  the  costly  peace- 
offering  of  Montezuma.  Bernal  Diaz  enumerates  among  them  "  thirty 
golden  ducks  exactly  resembling  the  living  bird  ;  also,  a  round  plate 
about  the  size  of  a  wagon-wheel,  representing  the  sun,  the  whole  of 
finest  gold,  a  most  extraordinary  work  of  art  ;  and  a  round  plate,  even 
larger  than    the   former,   of    massive    silver,   representing    the  moon, 

with  rays  and  other  figures  on 
it,  as  well  as  a  quantity  of  gold 
trinkets,"  all  displaying  the  most 
beautiful  and  skillful  workman- 
ship. 

Mining  investments  for  Ameri- 
cans have  generally  proved  a  sad 
experience.  But  still  the\'  ven- 
ture, working  and  waiting,  hop- 
ing against  hope.  They  give  up 
comfortable  homes  to  labor  and 
toil  as  never  before,  deprived 
of  every  comfort,  and  at  last  are 
forced  to  leave  the  scenes  of 
their  unfruitful  labors  ruined  in 
fortune  and   hopes,  and  with  en- 


AN    AMERICAN    MINER. 


558 


FACE    TO  FACE    WITH   THE  MEXICANS. 


er^ies  broken  and  crushed.  Some  of  the  most  utterly  miserable- 
looking  men  to  be  seen  are  these  unfortunate  American  miners.  A 
few  have  been  successful,  but  they  make  the  exceptions  to  the  rule. 
Mining  laws,  however,  are  said  to  be  excellent,  and  are  quite  as  favor- 
able to  the  foreign  capitalist  as  to  the  native. 

In  the  production  of  fruits  alone  Mexico  has  advantages  over  other 
countries.     In  many  places    by   stretching    out    the   hands  one  may 


■^1  , 


^-     s^ 


BASKET  OF   FRUIT. 


gather  both  temperate  and  tropical  varieties.  While  many  have  been 
imported,  a  large  proportion  are  indigenous  and  dail)'  tickled  the 
palate  of  Montezuma.  But  peaches,  apples  and  other  temperate 
fruits  are  in  a  neglected  condition,  and  consequently  lack  flavor.  For 
the  rest,  nature  is  sufficient  for  her  own  free  gifts. 

The  infinite  variety  and  constant  succession  of  fruits,  all  the 
year  round,  offer  an  attraction  to  growers  as  well  as  to  those  engaged 
in  canning  and  preserving.     Besides  those    familiar  to   home   growth. 


ADVANTAGES   AXD   DISADVAXTAGKS. 


550 


as  peaches,  pears,  lemons,  and  oranges,  or  known  to  us  through  com- 
merce, as  the  banana  and  pineapple,  new,  strange  and  delicious  fruits 
meet  the  eye  and  invite  the  taste.  At  first  Americans  generally  have 
a  distaste  to  the  native  fruits  of  Mexico,  but  after  a  time  relish  them 
very  much. 

The  accompanying  illustration  shows  a  few  of  the  most  peculiar  of 
these  fruits.  The  long,  white  one  on  the  left  is  a  lemon  from  Jalapa  ; 
it  is  nearly  ten  inches  in  length  and  about  five  inches  in  its  largest 
diameter.  The  one  in  the  center  of  dish  is  the  chiriinolla  (custard-ap- 
ple), delicious,  and  bears  a  stronger  resemblance  to  a  delicately 
flavored  custard  than  to  anything  else.  Another  species  of  this 
fruit  is  the  anona,  which  is  seen  on  the  right  ;  it  is  brown,  while  the 
former  is  green.  Both  have  the  shape  and  appearance  of  the  pine- 
apple, and  flourish  in  the  latitude  of  the  orange  and  lemon.  Both 
have  black  seeds.  The  anona  is  so  soft  it  is  always  brought  to  market 
enveloped  in  palm-leaves.  The  small  fruit  on  the  right,  in  front,  is 
a  mango,  and  the  small  one  to  the  left  is  the  agnacatl,  or  vegetable 
butter,  commonly  called  aguacatc,  grows  in  almost  all  parts  of  Mexico. 
Some  are  green,  others  black;  some  as  large  as  a  man  s  fist,  others 
the  size  of  a  marble.  If  the  skin  is  removed  and  the  substance  spread 
on  bread  with  a  little  salt,  it  is  a  good  substitute  for  butter;  it  also 
makes  a  delicious  salad.  By  putting  the  seed  in  a  bottle,  as  with  hya- 
cinth bulbs,  this  fruit  may  be  grown  in  all  warm  latitudes.  Then 
there  are  the  various  kinds  of  zapotes ;  chico  (small),  brown  skin  ;  pri- 
eto  (black  pulp,   green   skin)  ;  amarillo  (yellow  pulp  and   skin),  long, 

very  large  seed  and 
d  e  1  ic  i  o  u  s  ;  blanca 
(white),  green  skin, 
white  pulp,  and  the 
zapote  of  .Santo  Di- 
mingo.  AUhaveadif- 
ferent  skin,  flesh  and 
flavor,  but  the  yellow 
and    white    are     the 


MANGO   AND    SEED. 


560 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MhXlCAXS. 


r^^^i^^^-"".-^'  , 


YELLOW,    BLACK,    AND   WHITE  2APOTES, 


most  delicious.     Along  the  Gulf  coast  there  are  miles  of  forest  of  the 
c/iico  zapotc.     It  is  a  very  large  and  valuable  tree,  having  dark,  rich  foli- 
age, and  for  timber  growth  is  almost  unequaled.      Pieces  of  the  wood 
have     been 
taken  out  of 
the    ruins   of 
constructions 
that  were  al- 
ready ruins 
when      the 
Spaniards 
came,  and 
they   were 

still  as  solid  as  though  in  use  only  a  year.  The  mango  is  a  large  and 
lovely  tree  and  is  indigenous;  the  fruit  is  a  reddish  yellow,  kidney- 
shaped,  with  fibrous  flesh,  and  a  large  stone  much  the  same  shape. 
The  flavor  is  at  first  objectionable  to  strangers,  because  of  the  strong 
turpentine  taste,  but  this  is  finally  overlooked.  As  it  hangs  on  the 
trees  in  the  hot  lands  nothing  can  be  more  beautiful  than  these 
great  bright  bunches  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  hanging  from  the 
boughs. 

The  maincy  is  another  attractive  looking  fruit  of  oblong  shape,  meat 
of   salmon-red   color,  but    a   little    education   is   also    necessary  for  its 

enjoj'mcnt.  When  taken  from 
the  tree  the  fruit  is  warm 
throughout.  The  xicai/ia,  an- 
other curious  fruit,  looks  exactly 
like  a  turnip,  but  with  none  of 
the  flavor  of  the  latter.  The 
granadita  is  delicious,  and  bears 
a  striking  resemblance  in  ap- 
pearance and  flavor  to  our 
"May-apple."  There  are  about 
forty   varieties   of    oranges,   be- 


MAMEV    AND    SEED. 


ADVANTAGES  AND   DISADVANTAGES.  561 

sides  several  of  lemons  and  limes.  Then  there  are  capulins  (wild 
cherries),  the  juice  of  which  is  used  in  tamalcs ;  the  tcjocote,  cirnclas, 
cidras,  all  small  fruits,  besides  cicapnatl  (peanut),  as  also  many  other 
delicious  nuts  ;  the  calabaza  (pumpkin),  one  of  the  chief  articles  of 
food  for  the  poor  ;  the  cana  (sugar-cane) ;  the  cacao,  from  which  choco- 
late is  made;  the  ^7/c?7w/;rt  (guava) ;  ^r(?«(7^/rt'  (pomegranate)  ;  several 
kinds  of  figs,  pears,  and  grapes  ;  also,  charvicannos  (apricots),  iiiora 
(mulberries),  ^rtr^rtworrt  (blackberries),  ^rcjc-Z/rt  (raspberry).  The  acci- 
tuiia  (olive)  thrives  anywhere  on  the  table-lands.  Then  there  are  the 
sandia  (watermelon),  the  caiuotc  (sweet  potato),  the  endless  and  de- 
lightful varieties  of  the  tioia  (prickly  pear),  and  the  maguey  (as^avc 
Avicricanci),  known  to  us  as  the  century-plant,  which  furnishes  every- 
thing from  a  needle  and  thread  to  a  house-top,  as  well  as  a  variety  of 
food  and  drink.  Of  the  latter,  several  varieties  are  made,  chief 
among  which  is  pulque,  the  national  beverage.  The  manufacture  of 
this  liquor  is  as  peculiar  as  it  is  interesting.  Just  before  flowering 
time  (which  occurs  much  oftener  than  once  in  a  hundred  years)  the 
heart  of  the  plant  is  extracted  and  a  sap  rises  to  fill  the  cavity.  The 
tlachiqjtcro,  whose  business  it  is  to  collect  this  sap  two  or  three  times 
a  day,  places  one  end  of  a  gourd  syphon  in  the  cavit)'  and  the  other 
end  to  his  lips,  and,  by  suction,  draws  the  juice  up  into  the  bod\-  of 
the  gourd.  It  is  then  emptied  into  a  sheep  skin  which  he  carries  upon 
his  back,  and  from  this  put  into  a  vat,  also  of  sheep  skin,  which,  like 
the  other,  has  the  wool  turned  inward.  The  odor  imparted  to  the 
liquid  b)-  these  skins,  as  may  be  imagined,  is  anything  but  agreeable. 
On  bringing  it  to  the  lips  for  a  draught,  the  first  impulse  is  to  seize  the 
nose,  without  which  precautionary  measure  it  is  doubtful  if  the  induc- 
tion into  this  beverage  would  ever  be  made.  It  is  much  pleasanter  to 
the  palate,  however,  than  to  the  olfactories,  and  its  effects  upon  the 
system  are  generally  beneficial.  It  possesses  medicinal  properties  and 
is  considered  a  specific  for  Ikight's  disease.  The  cultivation  of  the 
maguey  is  quite  a  source  of  income,  as  a  single  plant  yields  about 
one  gallon  of  sap  a  day,  and  rarely  more  than  one  hundred  and  twen- 
ty-five quarts  in  all,  after  which  it  dies. 


502 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


The  other  Uquors  besides  pulque  whicli  this  plant  produces  are 
tequila  and  mescal.  The  former,  named  after  the  district  in  wiiich  it 
is  principally  manufactured, 
possesses  an  agreeable  flavor, 
somewhat  resembling  Scotch 
whisky.  Mescal  is  made 
from  a  liquor  obtained  by  ,K 
pressing  the  leaves  of  the 
maguey  in  a  mill.  Both 
mescal  and  tequila  are  trans- 
parent, while  pulque  has  very 
much  the  appearance  of  the 
milk  of  the  cocoa-nut. 

Tanneries  are  to  be  found 
at  many  places,  but  the 
leather  must  be  of  very  infer- 
ior qualit\%  if  one  may  judge 
by  the  rapidity  with  which 
shoes  break  and  wear  out. 
There  is  no  greater  incon- 
venience to  Americans  than 
the  style  and  quality  of 
shoes.  Generally  it  is  not  possible  for  them  to  wear  those  made  on 
Mexican  lasts.  I  have  seen  in  the  windows  of  shoe  stores,  "Ameri- 
can shoes  made  here,"  but  the  samples  shown  were  far  inferior  to  our 
home  productions,  and  did  not  even  resemble  them.  Rut  for  the 
artistic  repairing  of  old  boots  and  shoes  the  Mexican  cobbler  can 
certainly  claim  precedence.  Shoes  so  old  and  dilapidated  that  even 
mothers  could  not  use  them  instead  of  a  switch  on  refrartory  chil- 
dren, or  that  would  not  be  available  for  throwing  after  departing 
bridal  parties,  he  will  repair  and  return  as  good  as  new,  for  fift)' 
cents.  He  sits  on  his  stool  on  the  sidewalk,  himself  unshod,  verifying 
the  ancient  proverb,  perhaps  waiting  for  the  niaiiana  on  which  to 
be^in  his  avocation. 


THE    TLACHIQUERO. 


ADVANTAGES  AA'D   DISADVANTAGES. 


563 


V 


^^rVTnTo^^J^^i 


More  paper  factories  are  needed,  and  no  cotintry  offers  t;rcator 
inducements,  as  the  maguey  is  ever  at  hand  to  furnish  pulp  for 
the  enterprise.  France  and  Belgium  have  heretofore  supplied  the 
market,  with  a  moderate  amount  from  Germany  and  England.  If 
Americans  do  not  go  there  to  manufacture  paper,  they  should  cer- 
tainly be  able  to  compete  with  all  others  in  supplying  the  market 
with  a  superior  article. 

Considerable  attention   is  now  paid  to  the  importation  and  breed- 
ing of  fine  stock  of  all  kinds,  and 
i  Mexico    offers    unsurpassed   facili- 

ties for  this  purpose,  by  reason  of 
the  equable  climate  and  extensive 
pasturage.  For,  while  cattle  men 
annually  lose  thousands  in  their 
chosen  sites  in  the  United  States, 
in  Mexico  it  is  perennial  spring- 
time for  man  and  beast. 

The  meats  are  excellent  in  fla- 
vor and  quality,  the  mutton  being 
especially  delicious.  But  a  diffi- 
culty lies,  generally,  in  the  butch- 
ers, who  cut  and  slash  it  in  so  many 
directions  that  it  is  difificidt  to  tell 
what  part  of  the  animal  you  are 
eating. 

Butter  everywhere  is  a  very  scarce  and  inferior  commodity. 
Housewives  know  nothing  of  making  and  caring  for  this  article,  which 
to  Americans  is  a  prime  necessity.  The  most  primitive  means  are 
employed  in  its  manufacture.  In  some  places  the  milk  is  put  into  a 
sheep  or  goat  skin,  then  fastened  on  a  mule  or  burro,  usuall)-  the 
latter,  and  trotted  at  a  rapid  rate.  Inferior  in  quality  as  it  is,  I  have 
never  seen  a  pound  sell  for  less  than  from  four  to  si.x  reals.  The 
natives  make  a  cheese  from  goat's  milk  that  is  quite  good  when  one 
becomes  accustomed  to  it  ;   but  no  attention  is  given  to  checse-mak- 


A  STREET    SHOEMAKER. 


564  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

ing,  as  we  know  it,  although  the  facilities  are  at  hand,  in  the  labor, 
the  cattle  and  feeding,  as  well  as  in  the  tastes  of  the  people,  who  use 
it  largely  in  their  cuisine.  At  the  capital  a  pound  of  American  cheese 
costs  62}^  cents  (five  reals).  The  finest  butter  and  cheese  in  the  world 
could  be  produced  on  the  beautiful  and  abundant  alfalfa.  Our  people 
should  look  into  these  openings  for  enterprise,  particularly  as  the 
Mexicans  themselves  would  be  constant  patrons. 

The  refining  of  salt  is  another  much  needed  industry,  for  which 
ample  material  exists  in  immense  deposits  that  are  in  the  same  con- 
dition to-day  as  when  the  conquerors  came.  A  five-cent  sack  of 
American  table  salt  costs  three  reals,  while  what  is  generally  used  is 
in  the  crudest  state  possible,  requiring  to  be  washed,  dried  in  the  sun, 
and  then  ground  on  the  nictate  before  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Bacon  and  ham  are  both  imported,  the  United  States  now  furnish- 
ing the  greater  part.  The  price  is  never  less  than  five  to  si.x  reals  a 
pound,  even  at  the  capital. 

Finer  hogs  can  be  produced  in  no  country,  and  with  mountains 
forever  snow-covered,  and  railways  offering  inducements  to  shippers, 
pork  packeries  and  meat-canning  establishments  could  easily  be  estab- 
lished and  made  a  paying  investment.  No  improvement  can  be  made 
on  the  lard,  which  is  beautifully  white  and  sweet  ;  but  the  supply  in 
no  wise  reaches  the  demand,  as  shown  by  the  price,  which  I  have 
never  known  to  be  less  than  from  twenty-five  to  thirty-seven  cents,  or 
three  reals  a  pound. 

Wheat  is  one  of  the  best  products  of  the  soil,  and  flouring-mills 
convert  it  into  excellent  flour,  but  either  the  mills  are  not  numerous 
enough  or  the  supply  of  wheat  is  deficient,  as  prices  are  exorbitant — 
the  cheapest  I  have  seen  costing  three  dollars  and  a  half  for  fifty 
pounds. 

Fond  as  the  Mexicans  are  of  dainties  and  delicacies,  the  cracker  and 
wafer,  so  indispensable  in  our  dietary,  are  not  made  in  the  country, 
with  the  exception  of  one  or  two  factories  at  the  capital  from  which 
they  are  supplied  at  three  reals  a  pound.  Factories  of  this  kind 
would  develop  the  general  taste  and  doubtless  also  prove  profitable. 


ADVANTAGES  AND   DISADVANTAGES.  565 

By  all  means  let  some  enterprising  spirits  establish  goose  ranches. 
Strangers  are  particularly  impressed  with  the  unyielding  pillows  and 
beds,  encountered  everywhere  in  hotels  ;  and  with  few  exceptions  they 
are  little  different  in  private  houses. 

Both  climate  and  soil  are  favorable  to  the  production  of  broom- 
corn,  and,  as  the  native  manufacturers  are  less  skilled  in  broom-making 
than  in  almost  anything  else,  I  surely  think  this  manufacture  would 
be  a  desirable  enterprise.  American  brooms,  when  obtainable,  cost 
one  dollar  apiece. 

I  could  go  on  enumerating  the  smaller  industries  which  would 
find  a  ready  demand,  and  require  but  little  capital.  But  it  is  unneces- 
sary. It  has  only  been  my  aim  to  show  that  everything  stands  wait- 
ing for  the  ready  hand  and  determined  will  of  some  who  may  desire 
to  begin  life  in  that  old  country  on  a  moderate  scale  and  grow  to 
affluence. 

There  is  no  opening  whatever  for  either  Am.erican  matches  or 
match-makers;  for  the  matches  of  the  Mexican  match-.naker  are 
matchless  ;  a  rule  that  holds  good  in  more  ways  than  one,  and  may 
even  apply  to  scenes  from  the  balcony. 

I  have  found  an  elysium  for  the  Smiths,  Browns  and  Joneses.  By 
merely  crossing  the  Rio  Grande,  they  will  find  themselves  answering  to 
extremely  high-flown  names,  without  legal  or  legislative  intervention, 
or  arousing  the  suspicion  that  they  left  their  country  for  their  coun- 
try's good.  Plain  William  Brown  becomes  Guillermo  Moreno,  James 
Smith  flows  off  euphoniously  into  Santiago  Esmith,  while  John  Jones 
murmurs  in  the  mellifluous  Castilian  as  Don  Juan  Jo-nis  (Huan  Honis). 

The  very  serious  question  of  American  families  taking  up  their 
residence  in  Mexico  is  one  that  demands  especial  care.  We  of  the 
United  States  have  such  a  profusion  of  comforts,  even  among  the 
plainer  classes,  that  it  is  not  to  be  expected  of  an  American  woman  to 
settle  herself  contentedly  in  her  Mexican  home  with  the  scanty  allow- 
ance of  furniture  and  otherwise  primitive  household  arrangements 
she  there  encounters.  As  before  stated,  hotel  life  is  not  proper  or 
customary  for  families,  and  there  are  no  boarding-houses ;  the  whole 


J 


66  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 


matter  must  at  once  resolve  itself  into  the  setting  up  of  one's  own  little 
household  kingdom.  Furniture  is  not  only  extremely  scarce  but  high- 
priced,  and  furnish  the  liouse  the  best  one  can,  with  what  is  to  be  had, 
and  with  a  limitless  amount  of  pottery  cooking  utensils,  still  there  will 
remain  an  aching  void  in  the  list  of  supplied  necessities.  If  house- 
hold goods  are  brought  from  home,  ta.xes  and  custom-house  duties 
will  fully  quadruple  their  original  cost.  No  American  woman  thinks 
at  first  that  she  can  exist  without  a  cooking-stove,  but,  to  carry  one 
along  that  has  cost  twenty  dollars  at  home,  it  will,  when  turned  over 
to  her,  have  cost  six  times  its  original  value.  When  in  its  place  and 
man  or  biirro  ha\'e  trotted  their  score  or  two  of  miles  with  a  double 
handful  of  wood  for  cooking  purposes,  another  difficulty  is  added 
when  the  cook  tells  her  :  "  It  will  give  me  disease  of  the  liver,"  or, 
"  iVi?  cs  costianbre."  It  is  then  her  disgust  reaches  a  supreme  height. 
If  she  fails  to  take  pillows  and  bedding  along,  it  is  possible  that  she 
may  "  lie  on  the  floor  and  cover  with  the  door,"  or  rest  on  such  sub- 
stitutes for  beds  as  would  break  the  bones  of  a  Samson  or  Goliath. 

This  may  seem  paradoxical,  having  described  the  elegant  furnish- 
ings of  some  Mexican  mansions;  but  stores  exclusively  for  furniture 
are  not  general,  with  some  exceptions  at  the  capital  and  in  the  larger 
interior  cities. 

The  Mexicans  have  been  always  accustomed  to  order  their  house- 
hold furnishings  direct  from  Europe  or  the  United  States,  and 
strangers  generally  on  going  must  risk  the  chances  of  buying  what 
they  can  second-hand  from  some  one  moving  away,  or  have  a  carpen- 
ter manufacture  some,  on  his  own  plans  and  specifications.  But  do 
not  calculate  on  the  time  for  it  to  come  into  your  possession.  Mean- 
while a  cot  and  a  few  Mexican  blankets  are  blessings  in  exchange  for 
the  soft  side  of  an  earthen  floor. 

You  may  be  able  to  rent  rooms  in  families,  and  in  gems  of  pre- 
cious pottery  prepare  your  meals  after  your  own  fashion.  Sometimes 
you  will  be  able  to  procure  comfortably  furnished  rooms,  and  have 
meals  sent  from  a  foiida,  but  you  will  very  rarely  find  a  Mexican 
family  who  will  furnish  them.     You  may  have  a  room  in  their  house, 


ADVANTAGES  AND   DISADVANTAGES.  567 

and  be  freely  invited  to  a  place  at  their  board,  but  to  receive  money 
for  anything  but  the  rent  would  be  an  infringement  upon  their  estab- 
lished usages  and  ideas  of  hospitality. 

While  the  vegetables,  meats,  and  fruits  are  not  so  high  as  in  the 
United  States,  and  are  generally  better,  other  necessaries  make  ex- 
penses mount  up  amazingly. 

American  men  accommodate  themselves  quite  readily  in  Mexico  to 
the  inconveniences  of  the  home  life — natural  enough,  when  they  have 
none  of  the  worry — but,  with  a  few  exceptions,  I  have  never  seen  an 
American  woman  in  the  country  who  was  not  continually  pining  to 
return  home. 

So  far,  no  educational  advantages  exist  for  American  children  ; 
and  this  of  itself  is  a  source  of  great  perplexity.  But  the  children 
themselves  are  extremely  adaptable  to  everything  in  the  coljntry, 
learning  the  language  with  wonderful  rapidity,  and  in  their  childi>h 
communications  adopting  the  customs  of  Mexican  children.  Like 
these,  they  are  universally  petted  and  adored  by  all  classes,  from  the 
servants  to  the  highest  society.  I  have  seen  one  American  child 
engage  the  attention  and  interest  of  every  Mexican  in  a  railway  car. 

An  American  gentleman  and  his  wife  who  had  resided  a  number 
of  years  in  Mexico,  and  had  had  four  children  born  to  them  in  that 
country,  were  returning  to  Texas.  These  little  ones  had  completely 
identified  themselves  with  the  country  of  their  nativity  and  repudiated 
that  of  their  fathers.  Soon  after  crossing  the  Rio  Grande,  they 
stopped  at  a  ranch  house,  and  seeing  some  other  American  children 
bare-footed,  they  ran  excitedly  to  their  mother,  exclaiming  with 
mingled  scorn  and  pity,  "  Mira,  iiia?na  .'  las  gringitas  sin  zapatitas  !' 
("  Look,  mamma!  those  little  gringos  without  shoes!") 

Anglo-Mexican  children  will  never  admit  that  they  have  American 
blood  in  them. 

Generally  there  is  but  little  social  interchange  between  the  women 
of  the  two  countries ;  but  when  it  takes  place,  warm  friendships  are 
apt  to  ensue.  I  wish  my  countrywomen  residing  there  would  make 
more  effort  in  this  direction,  that  the  people  of  both  countries  might 


568  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE    MEXICANS. 

know  and  understand  each  other  better;  for  men,  left  to  themselves, 
with  all  their  diplomac}',  lack  the  finer  tact  and  instinct  of  women  in 
uniting  and  binding  together  widely  separated  elements. 

Those  who  intend  to  become  residents  will  read  with  interest  the 
late  laws  relating  to  foreigners. 

There  is  a  law  of  naturalization  lately  published  that  is  important 
to  Americans.     Subjoined  is  a  cop)'  of  the  official  notice: 

"  Americans  are  hereby  notified  that,  in  conformity  with  Article  I.,  Chapter  V., 
of  tlie  Law  on  Foreigners,  of  June,  1886,  foreigners  who  may  have  acquire- 1  real 
estate,  or  have  had  children  born  to  them  within  the  republic,  will  be  considered  by 
the  Mexican  Government  as  Mexican  citizens,  unless  they  officially  declare  their 
intention  to  retain  their  own  nationality,  and  to  that  effect  obtain  from  the  Department 
for  Foreign  Affairs  a  certificate  of  nationality,  on  or  before  December  4,  1886. 

"  Said  certificates  may  be  obtained  for  Americans  through  the  Legation  or  the 
Consulate-CrL-neral  of  the  LInited  States  in  this  city. 

"  Applications  for  the  same  must  be  accompanied  by  one  dollar  for  the  necessary 
revenue  stamps,  also  by  a  personal  description  of  the  applicant 

"Legation  of  the  United  States,  Mexico,  August  20,  1886." 

Still  another  law  requires  that  all  foreigners  should  be  matriculated 
at  the  Department  for  Foreign  Affairs,  that  their  nationality  may  be 
declared  and  recognized.  Foreigners  who  wish  to  have  a  hearing  be- 
fore the  courts  of  the  country  should  not  fail  to  comply  with  this  law, 
as  business  interests  are  not  secure  without  it. 

The  climate  is  all  that  is  claimed  for  it — even  more:  and  it  is 
recommended  as  a  safe  retreat  for  those  afflicted  with  pulmonary  or 
throat  troubles.  But,  even  here,  a  disadvantage  arises.  If  they  im- 
prove and  all  goes  well,  it  is  not  safe  to  return  to  their  homes  and 
this  is  the  thing  above  all  others  they  most  wish  to  do.  If  they  remain, 
the  lungs  will  harden  and  heal  over,  causing  little  or  no  pain  or  incon- 
venience, and  life  be  prolonged  to  a  good  old  age.  But  the  artificial  or 
real  strength  imparted  by  the  delightful  climate  lures  them  into  a  feel- 
ing of  security.  But  a  return  hoine  makes  the  decline  more  rapid  than 
the  improvement  has  been.  However,  if  in  the  earlier  stages  of  the 
disease,  they  will  make  up  their  minds  to  live  in  Mexico,  taking  all 
things  as  they  find   them,   I   believe   many   permanent    cures   will   be 


ADl-AA'TAGES  AXD   DISADVANTAGES. 


569 


effected.  I  have  seen  some  fine  specimens  of  robust  strength  and 
health  which  were  only  gained  by  exercising  a  firm  will  atul  determi- 
nation— a  trying  and  almost  impossible  achievement  to  the  invalid. 
While  the  strong  and  healthy  American  will  readily  accustom  himself 
to  the  food,  the  sick  naturally  loTigs  for  home  cooking.  Occasionally 
a  friendly  countryman  will  have  a  few  comforts,  and  such  fare  as  is 
suited  to  the  palate  of  the  invalid,  which  he  is  generall)-  pleased  to 
share. 

Mexican  physicians,  as  a  rule,  are  highly  educated  and  accomplished 
men  ;  having  not  only  excellent  advantages  in  the  Medical  School  at 
the  capital,  but  a  large  proportion  being  graduates  of  celebrated 
European  colleges. 

Consumption  is  not  by  any  means  confined  to  the  stranger.  It 
undoubtedly  originates  among  the  natives,  and  usually  with  fatal  re- 
sults.   Another  disease  in  this  fine  climate,  and  as  much  to  be  dreaded, 

is  catarrh  ;  and  a 
simple  cold  soon 
takes  this  form.  No 
class  is  exempt  from 
it,  and  perhaps  from 
this  the  custom 
arose  of  wearing  the 
blanket,  shawl,  or 
handkerchief  over 
the  nose  and  mouth. 
That  their  fine  air, 
so  celebrated  and 
lauded  by  visitors, 
should  be  blamed 
for  every  malatly 
that  flesh  is  heir  to, 
seems  a  contradic- 
tion. But  in  this  as 
in    everything     else 


"  ON   ACCOUNT  OF  THE   AIR. 


570 


FACt    TO   J- ACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 


there  is  a  special  fitness,  for  strangers  soon  find  themselves  follow  ing 
the  same  custom.  Ask  at  any  time  a  man  or  woman  of  the  poorer 
class  why  they  draw  the  blanket  over  the  mouth,  and  you  will  at  once 
be  answered  with,  "  Por  el  aire  "  ("  On  account  of  the  air  "). 

Police  regulations  are  admirable.  The  men  are  uniformed,  and 
stationed  in  the 

middle    of    the  .  _. ^ 

streets  where 
they  cross  a  t 
right  angles; 
and  regardless 
of  wind  or 
weather,  each 
one  remains  at 
his  post  eight 
hours  at  a  time, 
blowing  his 
shrill  vv  h  is  tie 
every  quarter  of 
an  hour,  in  an- 
swer to  the  call 
of  his  co-guar- 
dian    of     the 

peace.  The  quiet  and  order  that  prevail  in  all  towns  and  cities  attest 
their  efificiency. 

The  body  known  as  the  Rurales  constitute  in  Mexico  to-day  the 
most  competent  preservers  of  the  public  peace  existing  within  her 
borders.  They  were  once  lawless  and  abandoned  men,  who  led  lives 
of  wild  adventure,  many  of  them  being  bandits,  fearing  nothing. 

When  General  Porfirio  Diaz  became  President,  he  felt  the  necessity 
of  providing  the  rural  districts  with  an  efficient  mounted  police  force. 
The  utmost  forethought  could  not  have  predicted  such  grand  results. 
Being  as  they  are  familiar  with  every  mountain  pass  and  lonely  defile, 
fearless  riders,  and  possessed  of  extraordinary  strength  and  undaunted 


POLICEAIAN  f)V  Dl'TV. 


ADVANTAGES  A.\D   DISADVANTAGES. 


571 


courage,  they  have  proved  Iheir  prowess  and  valor  from  first  to  last. 
It  gives  one  a  feeling  of  security  and  satisfaction  to  see  a  company 
of  these  sturdy  horsemen  entering  a  city  or  town,  after  a  toilsome 
journey  in  the  wild  mountain  fastnesses.  They  wear  a  gay  and 
picturesque  uniform  of  buckskin,  the  pantaloons  decorated  on  the  out- 
side  seams  with  silver  buttons,  coat   and  vest  of   the  same  material, 


a  gorgeous  red  sash,  and  a  red  cravat  or  silk  handkerchief  around 
the  neck,  and  sombrero  with  silver  cord  and  tassels.  Behind  the 
gayly-equipped  saddle  a  red  blanket  is  folded  and  snugly  secured, 
adding  an  extra  charm  of  color  to  the  invincibles.  They  come  and 
go  as  if  in  haste,  the  rattling  of  their  accouterments  always  attract- 
ing the  attention  of  strangers. 

Land  and  sea  can  alike  testify  to  their  courage.  On  January  iSth, 
1886,  the  American  whaler  Ranger  ran  ashore  at  Ensenada  on  the 
Lower  California  coast.     The  crew  were  swept  into  the  sea,  and  would 


572  •   FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

inevitably  have  perished  but  for  the  courage  and  humanity  of  a  party 
of  Ruralcs.  One  poor  sailor  was  swept  out  of  their  reach,  though 
they  made  superhuman  efforts  to  save  him. 

The  President  of  the  United  States,  through  Mr.  Bayard,  and  in 
appreciation  of  their  valor,  forwarded  to  the  Rurales  memorials,  con- 
sisting of  a  gold  watch  and  chain  for  the  chief,  with  this  inscription  : 

"  Presented  by 

The  President  of  the  United  States 

to 

Pedro  Miramontes, 

Chief  of  the  Rural  Guard,  Ensenado,  Mexico, 

For  humane  and  praiseworthy  services  in  behalf  of  a  boat's  crew  of  the  U.  .S.  steamer 

'Ranger,'  January  l8,  iS86." 

Silver  medals  were  given  to  the  others  of  the  rescuing  party. 

Upon  the  subject  of  American  interests  in  Mexico,  I  am  glad  to 
introduce  the  opinion  of  Judge  J.  F.  Crosby,  of  Texas,  who  was  at  the 
Mexican  capital  during  my  stay  there,  and  in  an  interview  with  a 
representative  of  the  T-lVo  Republics,  thus  freely  expressed  his  views 
with  regard  to  the  prospects  and  safety  of  American  enterprise  in 
Mexico :  .  , 

"  I  do  not  only  believe  but  know  from  actual  observation  that 
American  enterprise  has  a  most  promising  future  in  Mexico.  The 
people  of  Mexico  arc  not  nearly  as  prejudiced  against  Americans  as 
superficial  observers  would  have  the  people  of  the  United  States  be- 
lieve. That  they  are  down  on  men  who  claim  to  be  Americans,  but 
are  devoid  of  gentlemanly  instincts,  and  show  no  respect  for  the  re- 
ligion and  customs  of  a  people  whose  hospitality  they  ask  ;  who  slander 
their  wives  an-d  daughters,  and  charge  the  Mexicans  with  being  dis- 
honest and  treacherous,  is  not  to  their  discredit.  But  they  are  anxious 
for  the  good  will  of  the  American  people,  and  if  the  Americans  wlio 
have  visited  this  country  had  been  half  as  anxious  to  win  the  respect 
of  the  Mexicans,  both  countries  would  be  better  informed  about  each 
other  than  they  are  now.     The  upper  ranks  of  the  Mexicans  are  the 


ADVAXTAGES  AM)    J^ISADVANTAGES.  573 

equals  of  anybod}-  in  culture,  patriotism,  and  iuiman  virtues,  while  the 
lower  classes,  altliouL;h  seemingly  degraded,  are  as  law-abiding,  intel- 
ligent and  gentle  as  any  people  could  be  under  similar  circumstances. 
I  know  of  what  I  speak  when  I  say  that  these  people,  high  and  low, 
have  fought  harder  and  suffered  more  for  the  establishment  and  main- 
tenance of  republican  institutions  than  the  much  exalted  foutulers  of 
our  own  republic  ever  dreamt  of  doing.  Being  forced,  ever  since  they 
first  asserted  their  independence,  to  defend  it  against  invaders  and  con- 
spirators, these  people  have  not  had  the  opportunity  to  pay  that  at- 
tention to  the  interior  development  of  republican  institutions  whicJi  in 
the  United  States  has  taken  a  natural  course,  excepting  the  forcible 
removal  of  the  curse  of  slavery,  which,  by  a  little  good  judgment  mi 
both  sides,  might  have  been  brought  about  in  a  quiet  and  peaceable 
manner.  Indeed,  the  Mexican  people,  as  such,  are  entitled  to  the 
highest  respect  on  our  part.  But  the  trouble  has  been,  and  is  to-day, 
that  people  come  here  from  the  United  States  expecting  to  make 
fortunes  in  a  day,  and  believing  that  everybody  has  to  receive  them 
as  superior  beings,  and  very  often  act  in  a  highly  offensive  manner. 
There  are  such  people  now  here,  right  here  in  Mexico,  who  misrepre- 
sent the  American  character,  and  in  their  talks  to  visitors  misrepresent 
Mexico  in  a  scandalous  manner.  I  am  glad  to  know  that  The  1  li'O 
Republics  accepts  it  as  a  duty  to  neutralize  the  harm  such  people  are 
doing." 

On  being  asked  if  he  considered  it  safe  for  Americans  to  make  in- 
vestments in  Mexico,  he  said  : 

"  I  do  indeed,  and  have  proven  it  by  my  own  acts.  The  Mexican 
Government  is  ever  ready  to  encourage  American  enterprise,  and  has 
quite  often  got  the  worst  of  its  bargains.  It  has  been  led  to  promise 
support  to  enterprises  beyond  its  power  of  fulfillment.  .-Vnd  this 
makes  me  think  of  the  charge  that  Mexican  officials  are  corrupt  and 
are  bleeding  American  investors.  It  is  quite  possible  that  concessions 
have  been  bought,  and  that  some  Mexican  officials  have  betrayed 
their  trusts;  but  that  is  as  much  the  fault  of  the  investors,  familiar 
with   the  crooked  ways  of  legislatures,  both  State   and   national,   in 


574  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

the  United  States,  as  of  the  officials.  As  a  rule,  I  am  free  to  con- 
fess that,  as  far  as  integrity  is  concerned,  Mexican  ofiScials  compare 
very  favorably  with  their  counterparts  in  the  United  States.  My 
advice  to  investors  is,  to  avoid  middlemen  of  all  kinds,  and  to  deal 
directly  with  head-quarters.  They  will  find  how  easy  and  pleasant 
it  is  to  deal  with  the  Mexican  Government.  Treat  a  Mexican  like  a 
gentleman,  and  he  will  treat  you  the  same." 

He  is  very  sanguine  as  to  the  opening  of  lands  for  settlement  in 
Mexico.    •  He  says  : 

"  I  believe  that  the  present  government  fully  appreciates  the  ne- 
cessit)'  of  breaking  up  the  large  estates.  My  opinion  is,  that  Mexico 
must  very  soon  open  wide  to  immigration,  the  same  as  the  United 
States  have  done.  It  is  only  a  question  of  time,  when  a  foreigner  will 
have  the  chance  to  acquire  full  political  equality  with  the  native  citi- 
zen. In  the  mean  time,  I  know  that  many  estates  have  passed  and 
will  pass  into  the  hands  of  American  and  other  capitalists,  who  will 
naturally  break  them  up  into  small  homesteads,  in  order  to  secure  the 
largest  I'eturns  for  their  investments.  The  spirit  of  the  times  is  felt 
by  the  Mexican  leaders,  and  it  will  not  be  long  before,  through  their 
efforts,  the  Republic  of  Mexico  will  be  as  much  the  home  of  the  free 
and  the  brave,  in  the  sense  used  in  the  United  States,  as  the  latter.  I 
repe.;t  it  once  more,  Americans  who  mind  their  business,  who  behave 
like  sensible  men,  and  treat  the  Mexicans  with  the  respect  they  de- 
serve, will  find  a  splendid  field  for  enterprise  in  Mexico.  Their  prop- 
erty and  their  lives  will  be  well  protected,  as  far  as  the  government 
can  afford  such  protection,  that  is,  to  the  same  degree  as  they  are  pro- 
tected in  the  United  States.  But  they  must  obey  the  laws  of  the  land, 
and  always  realize  that  they  are  enjoying  the  hospitalities  of  a  country 
which  still  considers  everybody  not  a  native  a  foreigner." 

Judge  Crosby  lived  for  many  years  on  the  frontier  of  Texas,  and  as 
early  as  1854  became  judge  of  the  immense  district  comprising  all  the 
territor)-  west  of  the  Pecos.  .Since  then  he  has  held  important  rela- 
tions with  our  railway  system.  Eminent  in  scholarship,  in  legal  lore 
one  of  the  brighest  lights  of  the  Texas  bar,  and  with   exceptional  op- 


ADfAXTACES  AND   DISADVA.\"IAGES.  575 

portunities  for  knowing  the  subject  thoroughly,  Judge  Crosby's  opin- 
ions are  entitled  to  the  highest  consideration. 

He  says  further  :  "  During  my  judicial  career  nobody  gave  me  less 
trouble  than  the  Mexicans,  but  I  have  to  confess  that  1  was  very  often 
called  upon  to  protect  them  against  sharp,  not  to  saj-  dishonest  [irac- 
tices,  on  the  part  of  the  Americans  who  flocked  into  that  country. 
The  criminal  branch  of  my  court  was  almost  exclusively  occui^icd  by 
the  trial  of  offenses  committed  by  lawless  men  who  claimed  to  be 
Americans,  and  the  only  time  I  was  in  danger  was  when  these  outlaws 
tried  to  assassinate  me  while  holding  court.  My  life  was  saved 
through  the  intervention  of  Mexicans  from  both  sides  of  tin-  Rio 
Grande,  who  had  heard  of  the  conspiracy  in  time,  and,  forming  a 
guard  around  the  court-house,  kept  the  scoundrels  off." 

In  a  recent  letter  to  the  author  Judge  Crosby  says: 

"  My  acquaintance  with  Mexico  and  her  people  dates  back  to  a 
period  of  forty  years,  when,  as  a  si.xtcen-year-old  j^outh,  I  served 
under  Jack  Hays,  the  original  Texas  ranger,  at  the  battle  of  Mon- 
terey. From  that  period  to  the  present,  I  have  never  ceased  to  in- 
terest myself  in  all  that  has  concerned  Me.xico  and  her  future.  I 
have  made  a  study  of  lier  constitution,  her  laws  ;  the  manner^-',  cus- 
toms, traits  of  character,  etc.,  etc.,  of  her  people,  as  well  as  the  charac- 
teristics of  this  most  beautiful  and  virgin  portion  of  the  North  Ameri- 
can Continent.  Me.xico  is  certainly  the  newest  and  yet  the  oldest  of 
all  North  America." 

Judge  Crosby  is  at  present  engaged  witli  some  New  York  cap- 
italists in  developing  the  Corallitos  property  in  Chihuahua,  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  southwest  of  El  Paso,  which  comprises  8oo,coo 
acres  of  farming  and  mining  lands,  and  in  which  thus  far  $700,000 
have  been  invested. 

I  am  glad  to  testify  to  the  fact  from  personal  experience  that 
ladies  may  with  safety  and  propriety  travel  on  any  of  the  lines  of 
railway  throughout  the  country,  getting  off  at  any  city  or  town  and 
inspecting  it  to  their  satisfaction.  Only  this  suggestion  I  would 
make  :  at  the  hotels  where  you  stop  procure   a  guide,  wlio  knows  all 


5/6 


FACE    TO    FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICAXS. 


the  places  of  interest,  and  pursue  your  way  quietly,  not  making  undue 
remarks  nor  laughing  in  a  loud   tone  at  what   may  seem   ludicrous. 

Mexican  affairs  have  been  severely  criticised  by  many  writers; 
and  objections  of  every  character  have  been  urged.  It  will  be  found, 
however,  that  there  is  neither  fairness  in  statements  made,  nor  is  there 
much  display  of  deep  study  into  causes. 

Among  the  chief  complaints  are:  (i)  The  instability  of  the  Mex- 


THE    CITY   OF    MEXICO. 


ican  government  and  the  pronciiess  of  the  people  to  revolution.  (2) 
Border  troubles  between  Mexico  and  Texas.  (3)  Non-progressiveness 
of  the  Mexican  people.  (4)  Want  of  wholesome  internal  laws  con- 
ducive to  the  happiness  of  all  classes. 

History  shows  that  the  government  of  Mexico  has  been  unstable; 
and  that  the  beautiful  country  has,  until  within  a  decade  or  so,  been 
the  scene  of  oppression  and  strife,  ever  since  the  day  when  Hernando 
Cortez  first  unfurled  the  Spanish  flag,  and  burned  his  ships  on  her 
shores.  But  when  it  is  considered  that  the  country  was  filled  with 
independent  peoples,  each  with   its  own  traditions  and  customs,  living 


Sf' 


CHURCH    OF    SACRE    MONTI,   AMECAMECA. 


ADVAKTAGES  AND    DISADVANTAGES.  S70 

in  great  cities,  and  with  independent  governments,  and  not  nomadic 
in  tiieir  character,  but  holding  the  soil  of  their  ancestors,  it  is  not  sur- 
prising that  the  change  from  the  ancient  civilization  of  the  aboriginal 
races  to  the  modern  has  been  slow,  and  that  governmental  disturb- 
ances have  been  frequent.  No  race  that  was  fixed  has  been  over 
suddenly  induced  to  adopt  the  laws,  customs  and  religion  of  its  con- 
querors ;  and  the  tardy  progress  of  Mexico  has  been  largely  ilue  to 
the  restraining  influences  and  prejudices  of  the  original  inhabitants, 
who  slowly  discard  the  habits  of  their  ancestors  for  the  teachings  of 
modern  civilization.  It  takes  centuries  to  work  such  a  transforma- 
tion. Then,  too,  the  immutable  doctrines  of  the  Church,  with  its  un- 
varying teachings  and  ceremonies,  serve  in  a  measure  to  influence  the 
people  to  receive  with  caution  and  by  slow  degrees  anything  that 
would  change  their  social  and  political  condition.  These  remarks,  of 
course,  apply  particularly  to  the  original  races  that  occupy  Mexico — 
remnants  of  the  ancient  tribes.  Mexico  has  progressed  as  rapidly  as 
could  be  expected,  when  the  large  number  of  her  aboriginal  inhabit- 
ants is  compared  with  the  feebler  bands  of  European  strangers  that 
mastered  the  government,  and  engaged  in  the  attempt  to  indoctri- 
nate the  people  with  a  new  religion,  new  government,  and  strange 
customs. 

The  English  in  North  America  had  none  of  these  difficulties, 
because  they  met  a  nomadic  people,  and  there  was  no  decided  at- 
tempt to  assimilate  the  Indians  with  the  Europeans;  hence  the  seem- 
ing advance  in  the  United  States  and  Canadas.  There  were  no  fetters 
on  progress,  and  the  new  world  kept  pace  with  the  old  in  North 
America,  while  Mexico,  Central  and  South  America  were  held  re- 
tarded by  the  almost  invincible  customs  of  the  aborigines. 

With  races  mixed,  revolutions  are  inevitable  for  a  time.  The 
situation  of  the  country,  and  the  remarkable  dissimilarities  of  the 
people,  render  a  strong  central  government  impossible.  Rival  parties 
with  interests  dissimilar,  headed  by  bold  leaders,  are  the  natural  con- 
comitants of  an  unstable  government  ;  and  they  multiply  and  more 
frequently  collide  where  government  is  in  a  transition  state,  perfect- 


5 So  FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXICANS. 

ing  itself  by  slow  progression.  The  internal  dissensions  that  have 
heretofore  distracted  Mexico,  and  her  failure  to  adopt  the  standard 
in  progression  as  fixed  by  her  neighboring  republic,  are  some  of  the 
inevitables;  and  there  is  no  remedy  save  time  and  perseverance  on 
the  part  of  reformers  who  are  kindred  spirits  with  the  Mexican 
people.  No  foreign  power  need  ever  expect  with  ruthless  hand  to 
break  down  Mexican  customs,  laws,  peculiarities  and  institutions. 
Such  changes  as  are  made  must  be  made  slowly.  With  the  American 
idea  of  government  in  Mexico  the  worst  evils  would  arise.  The 
ultraism  of  American  reforms  would  defeat  all  reform. 

Mexico  has  taken  no  backward  step.  Since  she  made  her  natural 
secession  from  the  Spanish  crown  she  has  progressed,  and  her  insti- 
tutions have  advanced  in  proportion.  From  each  revolution  she  has 
emerged,  purified,  strengthened  and  with  government  better  fitted 
for  a  people  who  in  the  end  will  enjoy  full  liberty  under  a  pure 
republic.  Her  revolutions  are  the  fires  through  which  she  must  pass 
for  refinement.  They  accomplish  in  a  brief,  though  desperate,  period 
what  it  might  require  ages  to  perfect  by  moral  suasion. 

While  the  "home  rule"  has  been  tumultuous  in  the  extreme,  yet 
it  was  the  only  government  that  was  destined  by  the  Allwise  to  sur- 
vive ;  to  stand  at  last,  perfected  in  its  own  way,  a  fitting  monument 
to  the  sore  trials  and  afflictions  of  a  brave  people. 

The  antagonism  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico  is  unques- 
tionably more  largely  due  to  border  troubles  than  to  any  other  cause. 
The  dividing  lines  between  countries  have  always  been  scenes  of 
trouble,  and,  considering  the  causes  that  exist  for  unfriendly  feeling, 
the  difficulties  that  occur  on  the  Rio  Grande  are  not  remarkable.  On 
either  side  of  this  line  the  stormy  elements  break  with  tumult,  the 
one  against  the  other.  The  floating,  unsettled  population  drift  to 
both  borders,  and  the  magistracy  on  both  sides  is  feeble. 

Let  there  be  a  better  magistracy  on  both  borders.  Let  both 
governments  bend  their  energies  to  hold  in  check  th.e  wild,  disorderly 
elements  that  seek  their  boundaries,  hoping  to  be  under  no  rule.  It 
is  only  by  mutual   effort  in  this   direction  that  these  troubles  can   be 


ADVAXTAGES  AXD   DISADVANTAGES.  58 1 

suppressed,  for  it  is  in  these  regions  that  the  strong  arm  of  the  law 
should  be  most  heavily  laid.  In  general,  too,  the  chief  disturbers  of 
the  peace  are  unworthy  of  protection. 

Let  the  consulates  be  filled  by  discreet  and  just  men.  When  they 
can  be  selected  from  among  those  living  on  the  border,  speaking  each 
other's  language  and  having  some  acquaintance  with  each  other's  cus- 
toms, a  great  advantage  is  gained. 

Neither  government  should  be  regarded  as  intending  wrong,  vio- 
lating the  laws  of  nations  or  treaties,  until  the  case  be  too  plain  for 
dispute.  When  either  republic  violates  the  rights  of  citizens  of  the 
other,  let  peaceful  arbitration  heal  the  breach. 

A  new  era  is  dawning  in  Mexico.  The  advent  of  railways  is  open- 
ing a  w'ide  field  ;  her  people  are  rousing  from  their  slumber.  The 
government  is  extending  her  protection  over  the  poor  as  well  as  the 
rich  classes,  and  rapid  progress  is  witnessed  on  every  side.  The 
wealthy  and  powerful  of  the  Mexican  Republic  owe  it  to  themselves 
to  let  the  spirit  of  freedom  and  independence  find  full  growth  in  the 
bosoms  of  all,  from  the  toiling  peon  on  the  hacienda  to  the  wild,  dark 
Indian  in  the  fastnesses  of  his  mountains. 

The  administration  of  President  Diaz  marks  a  glorious  epoch  in 
Mexican  historj',  and  the  law  recently  passed  by  Congress,  making  a 
second  term  constitutional,  gives  a  still  brighter  outlook  for  the 
future.  A  few  decades  with  governments  like  that  inaugurated  by 
him  and  the  co-operation  of  the  powerful  men  in  Mexico,  and  the 
republic  will  take  rank  with  the  foremost  nations. 

Far  from  placing  a  bar  to  her  progress,  it  behooves  us  to  extend 
the  right  hand  of  fellowship,  and  hasten  rather  than  impede  a  consum- 
mation so  devoutly  to  be  wished  by  all  lovers  of  republican  institu- 
tions. He  who  would  attempt  to  retard  this  great  work  and  seek  to 
incite  the  lawless  border  element  to  a  breaking  up  of  the  existing 
harmony  would  be  possessed  of  the  remorseless  spirit  of  the  piratical 
Norseman  and  the  inhumanity  of  the  buccaneers,  combined  with  the 
desperate  ambition  of  the  barbarous  Huns. 

It  will  only  be  when  Americans  have  lost  their  love  of  freedom 
37 


5S: 


FACE    TO   FACE    WITH    THE   MEXfCANS. 


and  pride  of  country  that  they  will  look  with  indifference  upon  such 
disturbance  of  our  sister  republic.  This  will  never  be;  our  wise 
statesmanship  will  see  to  it  that  the  Mexican  people  be  left  to  perfect 
their  institutions  according  to  those  immutable  laws  that  govern  from 
the  dawn  to  the  close  of  a  nation's  life. 


AD  I  OS. 


My  task  is  ended,  my  mission  is  accomplished.  To  show  how  dis- 
similar are  the  two  republics  in  character,  customs  and  traditions  has 
been  my  aim  ;  to  lead  to  a  fraternal  regard,  the  one  toward  the 
other,  has  been  my  hope. 

Vividly,  while  portraying  them,  have  the  scenes  so  varied  and 
the  strange  characters  with  whom  I  mingled,  floated  in  my  mind. 
Scenery  and  characters  are  associated  with  friends  whose  names  arc 
linked  with  a  thousand  tender  memories. 

While  there  were  so  many  ties  that  bound  me  to  Mexico,  there 
were  others  of  a  national  and  friendly  nature  ten-fold  stronger,  and 
my  heart  turned  again  to  my  native  land. 

I  was  leaving  the  brilliant  Mexican  capital.  The  leave-takings  of 
my  friends  may  all  be  concentrated  in  one  typical  adios  that  still 
lingers   unfading   in    rich   vividness.     Little    Alfonzo,  an    ideal   for  a 


584 


FACE    TO   FACE    11'/ Til    THE   MEXICANS. 


painter,  passionately  clung  to  me,  his  great  liquid  eyes  looking  lov- 
ingly into  mine  as  he  whispered  his  broken  adios  between  his  sobs. 
He  was  the  child  type  of  the  warm  friends  of  maturer  years  whom  I 
was  leaving. 

The  sun  was  setting  behind  the  distant  blue  mountains;  strains 
of  sweet  minstrelsy  floated  on  the  evening  breeze;  the  panorama  of 
singular  characters  passed  me  on  their  accustomed  rounds.  As  the 
train  moved  gently  along,  I  peered  back  and  saw  the  distant  lights 
gleaming  in  the  city,  and  heard  the  long-drawn  sweet  tones  of  the 
evening  bugle  call,  that  seemed,  as  it  dwelt  on  its  last  notes,  to  hold 
me  bound  in  sweetest  music,  bidding  me  a  yet  more  sorrowful  fare- 
well. 


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Face  to  Face  with  the  Mexicans 


Domestic  Life,   Educational,  Social,  and  Business    Ways, 

Statesmanship  and   Literature,    Legendary   and 

General  History  of  the  Mexican  People, 

as  seen  and  studied  by  an  american  woman  during  seven 
Years  of  Familiar  Intercourse  with  them. 

BY 

FANNY    CHAMBERS    GOOCH. 
iBitl)  200  iJllnstrations  from  ©riginal  iDraroings  anb  Photographs, 

Giving  a  complete  picturesque  delineation  of  interesting  and  beautiful  places,  famous  heroes, 

rulers,  and  authors,  and  a  multiplicity  of  the  detail  of  every-day  life 

among  that  unique  people. 

The  Mexicans  are  very  chary  of  admitting  foreign  men  into  their  homes  ;  but 
a  cultivated  and  inteUigent  American  woman  (such  as  Mrs.  GooCH  is),  properly 
introduced  (as  she  was,  through  the  most  distinguished  people  of  their  nation), 
they  receive  with  open-hearted  hospitality.  Thus  our  author  had  unexampled 
opportunities  for  observation  in  her  kindly  task. 

The  cordial  commendatory  letters  of  Bishop  RiLEV  and  Mrs.  Cornelia 
TowNSEND,  on  the  following  page,  give  not  only  a  comprehensive  idea  of  the 
labor  which  Mrs.  GooCH  undertook  in  making  this  book,  but  valuable  testimony  to 
the  fact  that  the  work  has  been  successfully  and  hrilliantly  accomplished.     It  is 

A   Treasury  of  Bomance,  Legend,  History,  Picturesque  Description, 
Valuable  Information,  and  Genial  Humor. 

IT   IS    ALSO 

Beaulifiilly  Illustrated,   BriiliantI)    Printed,  and  Kielily  Bound. 

Fawn-colored  English  Cloth,  $4.25. 
The  Same,  gilt  side,  back,  and  edges,  $5.00  ;  Half  Morocco,  gilt  edges,  $7.50. 


SOLD    ONLY    BY    SUBSCRIPTION. 


FORDS,     HOWARD,     &     HULBERT, 

27  PARK  PLACE.  NEW  YORK. 


FROM   RT.    REV.   H.   CHAUNCEY   RILEY,    D.D., 


PROTESTANT    EPISCOPAL    BISHOP    OF    MEXICO, 


New  Yukk,  Oct.  25,  1887. 

My  Dear  Mrs.  GoocH:  The  chapters  of  your  forthcoming  book  on  Me.xico 
tlial  have  been  read  to  me  are  admirable.  If  all  the  other  chapters  of  your  work 
are  equally  interesting,  you  will  have  jirepared  a  most  valuable  publication.  Having 
mingled  with  the  rich  and  the  poor  in  Mexico,  you  are  able  to  speak  from  personal 
knowledge  of  their  home  life  in  a  way  which  those  who  have  hurriedly  travelled 
through  that  land,  of  course,  cannot. 

A  noble  thought  has  moved  you  to  write  this  work  on  the  sister  republic,  namely, 
the  wish  to  make  Mexico  and  its  people  better  understood  in  the  United  States, 
and  to  correct  many  misconceptions  that  unfortunately  are  rife  about  that  neigh- 
boring nation.  Knowing  how  faithfully  and  industriously  you  have  labored  at  your 
work,  and  how  bravely  and  nobly  you  have  faced  and  overcome  many  difficulties 
to  achieve  what  you  have  accomplished,  I  trust  that  your  work  will  meet  with  a 
hearty  welcome  and  a  wide  sale. 

I  gladly  put  my  name  down  as  a  subscriber  to  the  same,  and  remain  with  much 
respect. 


Yours,  sincerely. 


J^f^ 


FROM  MRS.   CORNELIA  TOWXSF.ND. 

IIIIKIKK.N    VEARS    A    KKSIDKNT   IN    THE    MEXICAN    CAPITAL,    AM)   KNOWN 
AS    THE    "MOTHER    OF    THE    AMERICAN    COI.ONV." 

New  Y(5uk,  Oct.  25,  1887. 

Dear  Mrs.  GooCH  :  I  h.-ive  read  with  pleasure  and  deep  interest  the  MS.  of 
your  work  entitled  "  Face  to  Face  with  the  .Mexicans,"  and  congratulate  the  neigh- 
boring republic  upon  the  acquisition  of  a  faithful  and  impartial  chronicler,  for  cer- 
tainly no  nation  on  earth  has  been  more  thoroughly  misrepresented  by  tourists  and 
newspaper  correspondents  than  Mexico. 

During  the  past  decade  I  have  observed  that  travellers  and  certain  knights  of  the 
quill  usually  considered  a  sojourn  of  a  few  weeks  in  the  Federal  Capital  ample  time 
for  obtaining  tlata  sufficient  to  '•  write  up  Mexico,"  politically,  socially  and  com- 
mercially. The  fact  that  they  could  not  speak  Spanish,  and  had  not  the  entree  to 
that  exclusive  circle  termed  '■  La  Alta  Sociedad,"  did  not  deter  them  froin  writing 
freely  of  "domestic  life  in  Mexico."  They  obtained  their  information  on  all  subjects 
from  prejudiced  and  disappointed  American  speculators,  or  discouraged  English 
and  French  colonists.  Writing,  of  course,  in  accordance  with  the  views  of  these 
foreigners,  the  result  has  usually  been  a  tissue  of  absurdities  or  false  statements. 

I  remember  well  how  courteously  you  were  received  by  President  Diaz  and  his 
charming  wife,  and  how  royally  you  were  entertained  by  Gen.  Riva  Palacio  and 
family.  I  recollect,  too,  your  interviews  with  the  distinguished  philosopher  and 
litterateur  Ramon  Manterola  ;  the  venerable  Prieto — Mexico's  B^ranger — and  the 
charining  poet,  Juan  de  Dios  Peza.  As  to  the  brilliant  men  who  are  members  of 
El  Liceo  Hidalgo,  they  may  well  be  termed  "  the  intellectual  nobility  of  Mexico," 
and  you  must  have  deemed  it  a  jjlorious  privilege  each  time  you  atten;led  a  "  V'elada 
Literaria" — I  certainly  did. 

Fortunately  you  met  representative  women  of  the  highest  class  ;  therefore  vou 
have,  I  observe,  paid  just  tribute  to  their  virtues  and  accomplishments. 

I  am  particularly  glad  you  have  faithfully  described  those  civilized  Indians  who 
form  the  "  Servidumbre  "  or  working-class,  for  they  are  honest,  faithful  and  most 
excellent  people. 

No  doubt  your  book  will  serve  10  correct  many  errors,  and  to  eradicate  the  preju- 
dices of  Americans,  who  are  too  generally  inclined  to  regard  the  Mexicans  as  cow- 
ardly, inefficient  and  deceitful  simply  because  flippant  and  irresponsible  writers 
have  maligneil  a  brave,  intelligent  race,  which,  until  recently,  has  been  victimized 
by  foreign  tyrants  and  unprincipled  revolutionists. 

You  have  been  truthful,  and  have  done  justice  to  Mexico. 
Adios. 


'BOOKS  ARE  THE  FOOD  OF  YOUTH,  THE  DELIGHT  OF  OLD  AGF.,  THE  ORNAMENT  OF 

PROSPERITY,  THE  REFUGE  AND  COMFORT  OF  ADVERSITY, 

A    DELIGHT    AT    HOME." — Cicero. 


CHOICE    AMERICAN    WORKS 


WILLIAM    CULLEN     BRYANT, 

HARRIET    BEECHER    STOWE, 

DR.    JOHN    LORD, 

HON.    ALBION    W.    TOURGEE, 
HENRY   WARD    BEECHER, 

PROF.   JACOB    HARRIS    P^TTON, 

MAJ.    GEORGE     F.    WILLIAMS, 

LOUISA    T.    CRAIGIN, 

FANNY    CHAMBERS    GOOCH,    etc. 

■^Vith  3|Uu:Strat»on.si  bij 

GIBSON,    DIELMAN,    BIDA,    EDWIN    FORBES,    CUSACK. 
And  Many  Other  Celebrated  Artists. 


SOLD    BY    SUBSCRIPTION. 


"  I  rejoice  in  this  carrying  the  waters  of  knowledge  to  the  very  doors  of  the  people,  and 
almost  coaxing  them  to  drink.  It  is  the  beginning,  1  doubt  not,  of  a  great  system  of 
creating  .in  enlightened  community." — Rev.  JoHN  ToDD,  D.D. 


Selling  the  best  books  in  an  honorable  way  is  a  respectable,  refined,  and 
healthful  pursuit.  The  reading  habit  is  growing  ;  a  vast  population  is  to  be 
supplied  ;  and  there  is  work  for  all.  No  intelligent  person  need  be  without 
remunerative  employment. 

Salesmen  and  ladies  of  good  education  are  employed  in  every  community 
to  take  orders  for  our  high-class  publications.     For  particulars  address 

FORDS,    HOWARD,    &    HULBERT, 

27  PARK  PLACE,  NEW  YORK. 


m 


RARK  BOOK 
COI.I.RCTION 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF 

NORTH  CAROLINA 

AT 

CHAPEL  HILL 


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